From the Sector

• There is an urban legend that hemp canvas was used to make the very first pair of Levi’s jeans.
• While this is a myth that originated in the counterculture of the 1960s, hemp is without doubt the fibre of the moment for the denim industry.

At the second Kingpins24 virtual denim show that was broadcast from New York on June 23rd and 24th, the sustainable benefits of hemp fibre were referenced by many Monforts customers who are now including it in their collections, including AGI Denim, Artistic Milliners, Black Peony, Calik, Cone Denim, Naveena Denim Mills (NDM) and Orta.

“Hemp is an easy to grow fibre which requires no irrigation, no fertilizers, no herbicides and no chemicals,” says Allan Little, Director of Product Development for Cone Denim, which has recently launched its Sweet Leaf collection featuring the fibre. “Significantly, it also uses fifty per cent or even less water than cotton in cultivation.”

It can also bring some new aesthetics to denim too, he adds.

“Hemp has a unique colour and adds a different cast to our indigo, the drape and texture of the fabrics is different and it even adds  a bit of a unique hand, so combined with its sustainable credentials we are proud to be bringing the Sweet Leaf collection to the market.”

US supply chain

Cone is currently sourcing its hemp from France, but with much of its manufacturing now in Mexico – and with the introduction of the US Farm Bill in 2018 which has legalised the growing of legal hemp – is exploring the possibility of investing in the US supply chain.

“With US hemp we’re really at the R&D phase,” Little emphasises. “It’s a unique crop, so coming up with the right stalk to provide the right fibre is challenging. We’ve experimented with different types of seed and various methods of decortication.”

Decortication, he explains, is the mechanical removal of the outside layer of the hemp stalk to useable fibre on the inside. A second process, cottonization, is necessary to make the fibre suitable for spinning, because compared to cotton, hemp is longer, stiffer, and less flexible.

100% success

At the end of 2019, Naveena (NDM), headquartered in Karachi, introduced fabrics featuring up to 51% hemp content in blends with Tencel and recycled polyester and this year has developed the first 100% hemp denims.

“The response to the fabrics we showed last year was incredible and we were looking forward to the response to this latest development – which everyone was asking for – at the Kingpins show in Amsterdam, which unfortunately was unable to go ahead,” says NDM’s Director of Marketing Rashid Iqbal. “We produced initial samples in an undyed state because we were not sure how the wet spun yarn would react in the dyeing, but I’m happy to say we have had success in this respect and are now able to provide one hundred per cent indigo dyed hemp denim.”

Environmental benefits

“Differentiation is the key in the highly-competitive denim industry and we have assisted our customers with trials and optimised processing parameters for a range of different fibres, including hemp, both at our Advanced Technology Centre in Germany and at their own mills around the world,” says Hans Wroblowski, Monforts Head of Denim. “Given the environmental benefits of hemp, and the liberalisation of its cultivation in many parts of the world, the interest in it now comes as no surprise. We have the technologies and know-how to help our customers to fully maximise their hemp denims at all post-weaving stages of production.”

Monforts has a dominant position in the field of denim finishing with its well proven Montex stenters. It has been enjoying further recent success with its Eco Line concept based on two key technology advances – the Eco Applicator and the Thermo Stretch.

The latest Monforts innovation for denim is the CYD yarn dyeing system. This technology is based on the effective and established dyeing process for denim fabrics that is now being applied for yarn dyeing.

The CYD system also integrates new functions and processes into the weaving preparation processes – spinning, direct beaming, warping and assembly beaming, followed by sizing and dyeing – to increase quality, flexibility, economic viability and productivity. A full CYD line is now available for trials at the company’s Advanced Technology Centre.

• Esprit selects EarthColors® by Archroma for its newest ‘I AM SUSTAINABLE’ capsule collection

Archroma, a global leader in color and specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, today announced a new collaboration with Esprit, the global fashion clothing brand, who selected the EarthColors® range for its ‘I AM SUSTAINABLE’ capsule collection.

Esprit creates laid-back, high-quality essentials that reflect its core values of sustainability, equality and freedom of choice. The brand developed its first eco-conscious collection made of 100% organic cotton, back in the early 90’s.

Archroma’s EarthColors® range came to public attention for being the Gold Winner of the OutDoor Industry Award 2017, Sustainable Innovations category.

The range is regularly featured by brands such as Kathmandu, G-Star and Ternua, who are willing to explore truly innovative and authentic color options for more eco-conscious casual wear collections.
Archroma’s EarthColors® is a line of patented plant-based dyes, sourced from up to 100 percent renewable resources.

Archroma developed EarthColors® using non-edible waste products, from agriculture and herbal industries, to replace petroleum derived raw materials; which are the conventional raw materials used to synthesize dyes currently. This gives brands an alternative when looking for more natural ways of dyeing garments.
The collection is available online: www.esprit.eu/earthcolors.

Masks yes, but with comfort, safety and also style: Cifra, Iluna Group, Rosti and Sitip launch masks with a fashion touch with the premium stretch fiber ROICA™
 
Big companies are updating their productions with high-performance and high technical characteristics masks, result of their historical experience and thanks to an exceptional partner in common: the premium stretch fiber ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei. And the solidarity race continues to donate them to hospitals and to the Red Cross
 
Forced to keep most of the face covered and often for a long time during the day, solutions that are above all performing and comfortable become increasingly necessary.

And solutions that are also a manifestation of our personality, which remains hidden and entrusted to the mere expression of the eyes. Walking on the streets we sometimes even don’t even recognize each other, since we are so hidden; and the desire to minimize the situation often takes over, together with that desire to make us recognizable, to possess and express an identity anyway. For fans of escaping homologation (now more than ever mandatory and for this reason even more difficult) “rescue comes” - and this is the case to say it - from illuminated companies who have thought about creative solutions for those with masks has to do all day, at home, at work, during sports and in leisure time. To feel more comfortable, there are many proposals: more “street style” for sports addicted and young people - inside and outside -, more elegant and sophisticated for women.

Textiles companies have joined the fight against Covid-19 engaging a strong and decisive personal and productive battle, which has seen many of them transform and convert their production units for the production of masks and gowns intended for medical personnel and the community.

Some of the most established excellences of the textile sector as Cifra, Iluna Group, Rosti and Sitip have made use of the precious collaboration of ROICA™, the premium stretch fiber by Asahi Kasei. ROICA™ is the innovative and smart premium ingredient chosen by these companies to guarantee even more comfort, thanks to an exceptional top-level component that gives elasticity for perfect adherence to the skin. Each of the companies then declined its production according to its specificity. And this is their important contribution.

Cifra presents the eco-sustainable version of the mask, the ECO-MASK™, which combines the high performance of Cifra knitting technology with the sustainability of the materials used. The 100% regenerated yarns create a 100% sustainable mask with 83% ECONYL and 17% ROICA™ V550 elastomer, the stretch fiber certified Cradle to Cradle Gold Health Level which allows excellent and lasting printability, as well as advantages regarding the circular economy as it does not release harmful substances into the test environment according to the Hohenstein Environmental Compatibility certification.

Iluna Group, European leader in the production of lace, has recently donated 400 protective “smart”  made with ROICA™ EF, the world first GRS - Global Recycled Standard – certified elastomer and which uses 58% of pre-consumer recycled content, mixed with Q-NOVA® by Fulgar. Multi-use, washable, bacteriostatic, breathable and water-repellent prevention masks gave to San Gerardo Hospital in Monza to answer to the Call to action launched on March 19th by the green journalist Diana De Marsanich, with the responsible and innovative materials expert Giusy Bettoni of C.L.A.S.S. Eco Hub, the fashion designer Marina Spadafora of Fashion Revolution Italia and the entrepreneur Simona Roveda of LifeGate. Iluna Group also announces the launch of the website dedicated to the direct sale of the different kind of masks all made with three layers, antibacterial and anti-drip treatment and washable up to 10 times. Iluna Group has also created the “smart” masks made with ROICA™ EF, the world first GRS - Global Recycled Standard – certified elastomer and which uses 58% of pre-consumer recycled content, mixed with Q-NOVA® by Fulgar.

In addition to the “smart” masks, available for women, men and children, Iluna Group has created two special versions of Lace Masks, covered with refined lace. One embroidered on a cotton base and one with soft microfiber.

Rosti, historic knitwear factory based in Brembate specialized in the design and production of cycling clothing with the best technical fabrics and the most advanced technologies, has put its experience at the service of the production of protective masks washable up to 20 times, made with Sitip fabric and with the anti-drop treatment Ecoacquazero®. Fascinating and protective like a second skin, the masks are sold in a pack of 10 pieces with captivating, colorful, geometric and original graphics, designed for every personality.

Rosti masks contain the premium stretch fiber ROICA™ Resistance, a family of premium stretch yarn with particular performances of resistance and durability.

• Launched by SCOTT Sports Racing Team with Sitip, Rosti and ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei

The collection was designed starting from the needs of the athletes with the aim to offer them the best solution in terms of style and ergonomics, high performance, easy maintenance and perfect fit being also sustainable.

Ispo 2020 saw the celebration of the partnership started last year between Scott Racing Team, Rosti, Sitip and ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei for the supply of the team riders’ uniforms. Rosti worked on style and packaging, Sitip on technical fabrics ‘BE-HOT - Heat Generating fabrics’, while ROICA™ provided its premium stretch ingredient. The collaboration carries an interesting news: uniforms are not just highly performing but also, and above all, sustainable.

Sitip created the Native fabric entirely made with recycled yarns and featuring the premium high performing  ROICA™ EF elastomer. The yarn is certified GRS - Global Recycled Standard certification (and also provides special dyeability) with Rosti’s design and high care garment manufacturing.

The main rider of Scott Racing Team Italy, the young and award-winning champion Juri Ragnoli, the “end user” of the uniforms, explaines the requirements that garments should possess in order to meet the sporting challenges that await athletes: breathability, comfort on the skin, performance, durability of the shape and maintenance of the characteristics throughout the course of use of the garment. When asked about the arrival of a new sustainable uniform, the champion said that “it’s right and important to take this direction, which perfectly meets the team’s values, as love for nature and respect for the environment. It will be nice to wear something that follows exactly what you believe in”.

Energiapura – Production of reusable, customised protective masks that are also fashion accessories

• The Italian company, a specialist manufacturer of functional sportswear, conducted research and began producing masks in response to the COVID-19 crisis
• Using Mimaki sublimation printers, the masks can be customised, getting away from their connotation with hospitals and transforming them into a fashion accessory

From functional sportswear to combatting the spread of the Coronavirus: Energiapura, an Italian company has developed a mask that meets the Class I medical device requirements. The EP PA 2020 (Energiapura Pure Air) facial device, optimised for air filtering and breathability, provides protection while working, and can be reused. But Energiapura has gone even further, branding and customising the masks with sublimation printing.
The EP PA 2020 mask, compliant with 93/42 EEC Medical Devices – Class I washable, meets the essential requirements of UNI EN 14683:2019. Having redirected the manufacturing process, Energiapura is now stepping up production levels to meet the rising demand from hospitals, pharmacies, chemists, companies and consumers.

Pure Air, Energiapura’s mask
The EP PA 2020 is based on a functional concept: protection, breathability and reusability are the main principles. EP PA 2020 is made up of three layers of fabric: the first, the outer layer, is DWR-treated polyester, the second is TNT polyester, providing a filtering function, and the third, which comes into contact with the face, is polyester containing special fibres, such as coolmax and carbon.  Therefore it can be reused via normal washing and steam ironing, which also sterilises it.
The CEO of Enegiapura, Alberto Olivietto explains the idea of the customisation of the mask: “We wanted to disassociate our masks from the hospital image. By decorating them with company branding and designs provided by customers.” This is where the Mimaki JV300 wide-format printer comes in.

• The PREMIUM GROUP in Berlin is cancelling its PREMIUM and SEEK trade shows for this summer season, as well as the FASHIONTECH conference – in collaboration with the leading global digital B2B marketplace, JOOR, there is still a guaranteed trading option.

Due to the coronavirus crisis, in April the dates of the PREMIUM GROUP’s events were provisionally moved from the original schedule of 31 June-2 July 2020 to 28 -30 July. Now, the Federal and State governments have decided to cancel large-scale events with over 1,000 visitors until 31 August 2020.
     
A statement from Anita Tillmann, Managing Partner of the PREMIUM GROUP: 

“We greatly regret the decision of course, especially after the success of our January events. The ban on large-scale events has been around for some time and has been publicly discussed. It hurts us to do it, but we are also conscious of our responsibility. If cancelling our trade shows, conferences and parties contributes to the safety of our customers and visitors, then we have to take this step.
 
We are in close contact with all our brands and partners and have spent the last four weeks discussing possible approaches, concepts and new focal topics for the summer. The bottom line is that digitalisation is clearly the focus. It’s all about using the time over the next few months sensibly. The timing for brands and retailers is now right – all market participants are aware of the necessity of this.

We have been working closely with JOOR, the leading B2B marketplace globally, for around a year, after successfully integrating our own digital platform, Veee.com. JOOR has digitalised the entire procurement process and ensures a seamless, functioning wholesale process on an international scale – both for brands and retailers.
 
We shall shortly be offering webinars on this and can offer our customers an optimal, digital ordering solution so as to use this time of the pandemic efficiently. We are very happy with this option and our year-long investment in the topic of digitalisation. This has come good for us now.
 
Our trade show formats have been about more than just ordering for a long time now. They are about encounters, emotion, inspiration, communication and, finally, the fashion community getting together. Although lots can take place digitally nowadays, it doesn't replace physically meeting up in person. We have seen this more than ever in the present situation.
 
We are going to work on new concepts for 2021, and we will liaise with the key stakeholders in Berlin and with all others too to ensure we hit the ground running again. We’re taking on the challenge and will come back to the industry when we have news.”

Leading fashion and textile industry training centre offers UK professionals hands-on experience with 3D digital design tools
 
EFI™ Optitex®, Electronics For Imaging's global provider of integrated end-to-end 2D & 3D CAD/CAM software solutions for the fashion and apparel industry, today announced its partnership with Fashion Enter Ltd. (FEL), a UK training and technical skills development centre for the fashion and textile industry. FEL has implemented EFI Optitex 3D solutions into its course curriculum.
 
Established in 2006, London-based FEL is a veritable "all-in-one" technology hub for the fashion and textile industry, offering multiple training and technical skills development services encompassing the entire design to production cycle. A not for profit, social enterprise, FEL also provides apprenticeships and adult learning through an Educational Skills and Finding Agency- and Social Enterprise London-approved technical centre supported by Haringey Council, Mayor's Good Growth Fund and online fashion retailer ASOS®.
 
To help lay the foundation for the UK's fashion and textile industry on its imminent journey towards digital transformation, FEL was determined to close the mounting skills gap in both industry and academia and offer UK professionals hands-on experience and exposure to 3D digital design tools. With a keen understanding of the market's growing need for speed, flexibility and shifting demands, in September 2019, FEL selected EFI Optitex as its 3D technology partner. FEL sought advanced 3D solutions that would enable innovative digital design courses, apprenticeships and bespoke training, including collaboration with leading fashion retailers such as Marks & Spencer®, ASOS, Next®, and many others.
 
After a short but highly intensive training period FEL implemented EFI Optitex 3D into its design and production processes, including pattern design and 3D tools for design and fitting. Since the recent implementation, FEL has already reaped the benefits of EFI Optitex 3D fully digital design, from sampling and grading, through to production. During a preliminary implementation phase, EFI Optitex 3D will enable FEL to deliver a wide range of accredited 3D design courses and forge collaborations with new customers, a result of EFI Optitex 3D's intuitive design tools, ease of use, and time and resource savings.

Clean, minimal and responsible, the collection perfectly embodies the combination of high-end looks with a sustainable vision, delivering effortless and stylish garments available in store from January 2020.

It claims to be love at first touch, and rightly so, as it celebrates women’s natural shape enhancing it with haikure’s delicate designs and ISKO™ premium denim. amae – the Italian brand’s latest collection and the latest chapter in the longstanding partnership between haikure and ISKO – is inspired by the idea of “taking care”.

Aiming at promoting the value of Responsible Innovation™, the collection delivers high-end contemporary looks resulting from the shared commitment to provide remarkable innovation while fostering a mindful approach in the fashion and denim industries.

ISKO, pioneer of responsibility and the first denim mill in the world awarded both the prestigious EU Ecolabel and Nordic Swan Ecolabel, supported the project providing amae with responsible ingredients to shape its neat looks. Clean and minimal, the garments feature ISKO Pj Soft™ which, like a gentle embrace, grants the skin a silky touch and a soft feel. Responsibly produced according to ISKO’s holistic vision based on creativity, competence and citizenship, this light and soft fabric molds and moves with the wearer, providing an all-round flattering silhouette and comfortable fit that never feel restrictive.

As part of ISKO’s 25,000+ products, this textile concept also has a certified Environmental Product Declaration (EPD®s) for its Life Cycle Assessment (LCAs), ensuring a full transparency about its environmental impact by providing the water usage and carbon footprint of 1 square meter of fabric. As signatory member of ZDHC Foundation, ISKO also avoids harmful substances and hazardous chemicals in its entire production chain, resulting in safer denim that are good for both people and the planet.

Presenting three different washes – regular and stone wash, as well as dyed –, this fashionable and responsible collection will be available in Italy, Spain and Germany starting from January 2020.

Today’s consumers demand versatility in their apparel, whether they’re shopping for work, sports or leisure wear. Work wear is no longer just about style, and sports and leisure wear is no longer just about stretch, while the demands for high-performance textiles in every category continue to increase. More and more consumer brands are looking to Schoeller’s established technologies to deliver not only beautiful fabrics that offer comfort and style but also breathability and the best in water and dirt repellence to their customers.

3XDRY® finishing technology from schoeller® allows the exterior of a textile to be water repellent, while the inside absorbs moisture and quickly distributes it over the surface. As a result, textiles with 3XDRY® dry much faster in comparison to conventional textiles. Since the launch of 3XDRY® in 2001, the technology has proven performance focused mostly on sportswear. Now that demands within the fashion industry are also trending toward performance textiles, more of its apparel brands are also turning to the patented 3XDRY® technology’s reliability and versatility for functional jackets, pants and shirts.

Exhibit to showcase solutions answering sustainability demands in fashion supply chain
Kornit Digital (Nasdaq: KRNT),  announced that the company is exhibiting at the Pure Origin event, taking place February 9-11 at the Olympia London. Hosted in conjunction with Pure London, Pure Origin is billed as “the UK’s only fashion sourcing show to bring every element of the fashion supply chain together in one location.”

The Kornit exhibit (Stand PO-A4) will call on brands and manufacturers to produce fashion in the most sustainable manner possible, approaching the fashion market with a statement that clothing can be produced on demand, in a profitable manner, without compromising on environmental concerns.

With its unique single-step printing solution and proprietary water-based NeoPigment™ inks, Kornit Digital enables on-demand textile manufacturing in a sustainable way. Furthermore, these solutions provide retail-quality impressions that enable retailers to become e-tailers.