From the Sector

OETI - Institute for Ecology, Technology and Innovation’ offers as a worldwide accredited and notified centre of excellence testing and certification services. The company specialises in textiles, leather, personal protective equipment (PPE), floor coverings and interior furnishing materials. It also assesses indoor air quality.  As a founding member of the OEKO-TEX® community (1992) and official OEKO-TEX® testing institute, OETI also comprises the entire OEKO-TEX® product portfolio.

Between its own international branches and the branches of OETI’s Swiss parent company TESTEX AG, OETI’s network of locations spans several continents. Recently, two more branches have been added in India and Bangladesh: Headquartered in Coimbatore/Tamil Nadu, OETI India is managed by Vignesh Amalraj, who has decades of experience in the textile and apparel industry for testing, inspection, certification, auditing, product safety, training and sustainability management. The second location was recently opened in Dhaka, Bangladesh. The responsible Country Manager, Mohiuddin Sheek, is an expert in the areas of testing, auditing, certification, product safety, training, consulting and business development.

• Unveil UK’s first-ever sustainable Fashtech Innovation Centre, displaying mass customization capabilities empowering designers, apparel brands, and other creatives

Kornit Digital Ltd. (NASDAQ: KRNT), a worldwide market leader in sustainable, on-demand digital fashionx and textile production technologies and Fashion-Enter - a social enteprise, which strives to be a centre of excellence for sampling, grading, production, and for learning and development of skills within the fashion and textiles industry – today announced a first-of-its-kind Fashtech Innovation Centre in London. Aimed at bringing on-demand fashion and textile mass customization back to the UK, and unveiled on March 3rd and 4th, 2022 at Fashion-Enter's state-of-the-art training and manufacturing site, the Centre is fully supported by Kornit Digital's revolutionary, direct-to-fabric and direct-to-garment digital production solutions.

According to Kornit Digital’s Impact and Environmental, Social and Governance (ESG) report, 30 percent of textile production is overproduction, while 95 percent of water waste is created as companies globally look towards more sustainable futures with customized, creative, and real-time offerings. Using proprietary streamlined, eco-friendly digital production technologies, Kornit Digital is transforming the fashion industry with more efficient and sustainable processes. According to the same report, by 2026, the Company’s systems will use up to 95 percent less water, 94 percent less energy and produce 83 percent less greenhouse gas emissions.

In addition to highlighting production capabilities that minimize carbon footprint, the Fashtech Innovation Centre serves as a prototype for brands and fulfillers seeking to mitigate logistical complexities, time-to-market, and supply chain risks by bringing production nearer to the end consumer. Eliminating overproduction and producing on demand, this nearshoring model drives profitability even in highly regulated and high-cost markets while contributing to local economies and removing transport-related waste.

Serving as a fulfilment site and academy for training production, the Centre includes both Kornit Presto direct-to-fabric and Kornit Atlas MAX direct-to-garment systems, as well as numerous graphic design and workflow tools and systems to enable cut-and-sew operations for a comprehensive “pixel to parcel to doorstep” cycle. Consolidating the process into a single location helps maintain full visibility and control of operations and products. Taking this one step further for creators and brands, visitors can experience the KornitX Global Fulfilment Network, enabling customers to create both new sales channels and accessibility to enable production on demand. Attendees can see how Kornit’s single-step digital production technology empowers unlimited graphic expression using less floor space, resources, waste, and time—all at higher margins.

“This Innovation Centre makes it possible to capture the full, end-to-end production process in one, single location,” said Jenny Holloway, Chief Executive Officer, Fashion-Enter. “The beauty of having print on demand means there are no minimums, so we can make one garment, or we can make up to 30,000 garments a week from all locations at the same fixed cost. Here, we can also train future generations on the right way of producing garments for today, responsive to demand, with minimal waste—ethical and sustainable. This is the future of fashion and textiles.”

Monforts textile technologist Jonas Beisel will outline the benefits of the company’s Econtrol® continuous dyeing process during the next free-to-attend VDMA Textile Machinery Webtalk which takes place on February 3rd 2022 at 13.00 (CET).

“Our customers are increasingly looking at shorter production runs and the more economical use of dyestuffs, as well as reducing water and energy consumption,” says Beisel. “We have gained many years of experience in the optimisation of dyeing processes through working with our customers, both at their own plants and in our Advanced Technology Centre (ATC) in Mönchengladbach, Germany.

“Our Thermex universal hotflue for continuous dyeing, curing and thermosoling achieves unrivalled reliability even at high fabric speeds, for exceptional cost-effectiveness when dyeing both large and small batches of woven fabrics. The Econtrol® process for reactive dyestuffs now has an impressive number of references on the market, as a quick and economical one-pass pad-dry and wash off process. This is the ideal process for fast change technology and operational savings.”

Among key benefits are the saving of resources compared to conventional continuous dyeing methods, excellent reproducibility of pale to dark shades, from lab to bulk, and greater flexibility in production planning due to a resulting dry fabric that does not need an immediate wash off.

Econtrol® is a registered trademark of DyStar® Colours Distribution GmbH, Germany, and Bertram Seuthe of DyStar® will be providing recommendations for dyes and auxiliaries for the process during the VDMA event.

A third speaker, Guido Seiler of Fong’s Europe, will explain how Goller washing ranges help to significantly reduce the water that is conventionally wasted in the washing off process, through a combination of process and chemistry know-how and advanced technologies.

On 27 November 2021, the Scientific Award for International Sustainable Aviation and Energy Society (SARES Award) was awarded to Professor Dr Thomas Gries from the Institut für Textiltechnik of RWTH Aachen University. The award ceremony took place during the closing ceremony of the International Symposium on Sustainable Aviation (ISSA) in a hybrid format online and simultaneously at Kasetsart University, Bangkok, Thailand.
 
With the award, the committee recognised the ongoing contribution of Pro-fessor Gries and the Institut für Textiltechnik to the digitisation and bio-transformation of the textile sector, as well as the Institute as a place of innovation for sustainable aviation.

Examples of this include the development of 3D braided ceramic matrix composite components for aircraft engines, which were researched together with partners in a Horizon 2020 project (EU project AllOxITD). The ongoing Chrysomallos research project as another example, funded under the national aeronautics research programme in Germany, aims to develop a completely new and sustainable high-performance insulator for aircraft cabins based on aerogels. These have a significantly lower weight than the glass fibre mats used up to now, while providing the same insulation performance, and solve the problem of the previously high manufacturing costs of aerogels. The aim of the project is to develop an insulation material with reduced density (reduction of more than 20 percent). To this end, a new type of insulation material based on aerogel is to be developed. The basis is an aerogel fleece (0.06 W/mK at 28 kg/m³), which has already been developed as part of a dissertation at the Institut für Textiltechnik of RWTH Aachen University (Mroszczok, J.: 2019).

The aviation industry is one of the fastest growing industries in the world. Due to this fact and its importance for society and the global economy, it needs to make special efforts towards sustainability. The ISSA, an international multi-disciplinary symposium, aims to address current issues in aviation such as improving aircraft fuel efficiency, promoting the use of biofuels, minimising environmental impact, mitigating greenhouse gas emissions and reducing engine and aircraft noise. ^

Through the award, SARES honours scientists and researchers whose work on sustainable aviation issues has made an important contribution at the international level. The selection is based on the scientific publications of the applicant or nominee, the h-index, i.e. the key figure for the worldwide perception of a scientist in professional circles, the project topics and the project results.

Travis Wells, JD, MBA, has been appointed as GOTS Protection Officer North America. In this newly created position, he will be identifying and advising companies that are making unsubstantiated claims regarding GOTS signage.

An increasing number of companies are eager to use GOTS certified materials and want to make claims regarding GOTS content on their finished products. However, the correct use of the trademarked logo is strictly regulated in CUGS 3.1. – The conditions for the use of GOTS signs. A GOTS claim on finished products guarantees the consumer that every single step in the textile processing supply chain was certified. As soon as one stage in the supply chain is not certified, a company may not label or mention GOTS on their final product.

As a Sustainable Supply Chain Director, Travis has more than 20 years of experience advising fashion and apparel-related businesses on sustainable sourcing, product development and manufacturing in domestic and global markets. He earned his Bachelor of Arts (B.A.) in International Studies from Vassar College, his Juris Doctorate (J.D.) in Corporate Law from George Washington University Law School and his Master of Business Administration (MBA) in Global Sustainability and Finance from the Gabelli School of Business at Fordham University.  

At the subsidiaries of the German Mahlo GmbH + Co KG, two branch managers are celebrating anniversaries this year. Alan Lavore, CEO of Mahlo America Inc., has been with the machine builder for 25 years. Michel Bruni, CEO of Mahlo Italia, has been part of the Mahlo family for 40 years.

Bruni began his career at Mahlo in 1981 as a service technician in the French branch Mahlo Ouest. Just one year later, he moved to Mahlo Italia, where he was appointed branch manager in 1996. He still holds this position today. Bruni is also sales manager for the Benelux countries, the Maghreb countries and Madagascar. The Mahlo Italia CEO's recipe for success includes expertise paired with experience and passion. To remain loyal to a company for so many years also testifies to a special relationship. "Then as now, I work with a dynamic and committed team. We also have a very good relationship with the employees of the parent company in Germany," says Bruni.

The culture and integrity with which business is conducted in the family-owned company were among the reasons why Mahlo America Inc. CEO Alan Lavore has also been with Mahlo for 25 years. "I just love working with all the great people at Mahlo." Lavore joined Mahlo in 1996 as a territory sales manager and took over as CEO in 2005. During this time, he drove the company's expansion from a textile specialist to a supplier for various production sectors such as film, paper, coating and converting or nonwovens.

Die Verleihung der Förder- und Kreativitätspreise 2021 der Walter Reiners-Stiftung des VDMA, Fachverband Textilmaschinen an Studierende und Nachwuchswissenschaftler:innen deutscher Universitäten für Spitzenleistungen in Studium und Promotion fand am 09. November 2021 im Rahmen der Aachen-Dresden-Denkendorf International Textile Conference 2021 statt. Die bundesweit ausgeschriebenen Förder- und Kreativitätspreise wurden erneut online durch Herrn Peter D. Dornier, Vorstandsvorsitzender der Walter Reiners-Stiftung, verliehen.

Dr.-Ing. Martin Hengstermann wurde mit dem mit 5.000 EUR dotierten Förderpreis beste Dissertation des Deutschen Textilmaschinenbaues 2021 für seine am Institut für Textilmaschinen und Textile Hochleistungswerkstofftechnik der TU Dresden erarbeiteten Dissertation „Entwicklung von Hybridgarnen aus recycelten Carbonfasern und Polyamid 6-Fasern für thermoplastische Verbundbauteile mit hohem Leistungsvermögen“ geehrt.

Gegenstand der Dissertation ist die Entwicklung und Umsetzung von neuartigen Hybridgarnen aus recycelten Carbonfasern (rCF) und Polyamid (PA) 6-Fasern für thermoplastische Verbundbauteile. Diese Hybridgarne können die hervorragenden mechanischen Eigenschaften der rCF im Gegensatz zu bisherigen Lösungen in hohem Maße ausnutzen. Bedingt durch deren spezielle Fasereigenschaften (insbesondere hohe Querkraftempfindlichkeit, Sprödigkeit und fehlende Kräuselung) wurde dafür die Prozesskette der konventionellen Stapelfasergarnherstellung, bestehend aus Krempel, Strecke und Flyer, umfangreich analysiert und technologisch-konstruktiv weiterentwickelt, wodurch erstmalig eine schonende und gleichmäßige Herstellung der Hybridgarne ermöglicht werden konnte.

The Chairman of the Walter Reiners-Stiftung foundation of the VDMA Textile Machinery Association, Peter D. Dornier has awarded prizes to three successful young engineers. The award-winning works provide practical solutions on the topic of circular economy. For example, the recycling of carbon fibres, which are used to produce lightweight components for the automotive industry. Or the environmentally friendly production of yarns from crab shells. Another topic was medical applications: The processing of ultra-fine yarns into stents for aortic repair. The award ceremony took place online on 9 November as part of the Aachen-Dresden-Denkendorf International Textile Conference.  

With a creativity prize, endowed with 3,000 euros, the foundation honoured the diploma thesis of Irina Kuznik, TU Dresden. She used a creative approach to realise solutions for processing chitosan into fibre yarn.

Mr Kai-Chieh Kuo was awarded the diploma/master's thesis promotion prize of 3,500 euros. With his master's thesis, which was written at RWTH Aachen University, Mr Kuo contributes to the production of vital components used in medicine. The stents made of ultra-fine yarns are made possible by an innovative modification of the classic tube weaving process.

The Walter Reiners Foundation rewarded the doctoral thesis of Dr. Martin Hengstermann with the promotional prize in the dissertation category, endowed with 5,000 euros. The thesis deals with the production of recycled carbon fibres. These can be used to produce lightweight components for motor vehicle and aircraft construction or the wind energy sector.

New Prize Sustainability / Circular Economy
The environmental conditions of the textile industry and machine construction are changing. Topics such as climate protection and the circular economy are becoming central. From this perspective, the board of the Walter Reiners Foundation has decided to further develop the foundation's prize system.

In 2022, the foundation will for the first time offer a prize with a focus on design / sustainability. Peter D. Dornier, Chairman of the Foundation, explained: "Already in the design phase, one can set the parameters so that a textile product can be reintroduced after use into the economic cycle for a high-quality application. For example, through the appropriate use of materials and finishing. We are looking for solutions for resource-saving design, technology and manufacturing processes."   

It looks like a normal shirt, but it has it all: The new SmartTex shirt uses integrated sensors to transfer physiological data from astronauts to Earth via a wireless communication network. In this way, the effects of the space environment on the human cardiovascular system will be evaluated and documented, especially with regard to long-term manned space missions. Developed by the German Aerospace Center (DLR) in cooperation with DSI Aerospace Technology, the Medical Faculty of Bielefeld University and textile research partner Hohenstein, SmartTex will be tested for the first time as part of the Wireless Compose-2 (WICO2) project by German ESA astronaut Dr. Matthias Maurer, who will leave for his ‘Cosmic Kiss’ mission on the International Space Station (ISS) for six months on October 30, 2021.

"We were already able to gain valuable insights into the interaction of the body, clothing and climate under microgravity conditions during the previous projects Spacetex (2014) and Spacetex2 (2018)," explains Hohenstein Senior Scientific Expert Dr. Jan Beringer. The insights provided at the time by the mission of ESA astronaut Dr. Alexander Gerst have now been directly incorporated into the development of the new SmartTex shirt at Hohenstein. "Matthias Maurer can wear his tailor-made shirt comfortably on his body during his everyday work on the International Space Station. For this, we used his body measurements as the basis for our cut development and the production of the shirt. We integrated the necessary sensors as well as data processing and communication modules into the shirt's cut in such a way that they interfere as little as possible and are always positioned in the right place, regardless of the wearing situation. This is the prerequisite for reliably measuring the relevant physiological data." The SmartTex shirt is intended to provide a continuous picture of the vital functions of astronauts. This will be particularly relevant for future long-term manned space missions to the Moon and Mars.

For example, during the BEAT experiment (Ballistocardiography for Extraterrestrial Applications and long-Term missions), Matthias Maurer will be the first astronaut to wear a T-shirt equipped with sensors that measure his ballistocardiographic data such as pulse and relative blood pressure. For this purpose, the sensors were calibrated in the :envihab research facility at the DLR Institute of Aerospace Medicine in Cologne. Details on the contraction rate and opening and closing times of the heart valves, which are normally only accessible via sonography or computer tomography, can also be read from the data material. The goal is to study the effects of the space environment on the human cardiovascular system. To be able to analyse these effects realistically, Matthias Maurer's ballistocardiographic data will be recorded before, during and after his stay on the ISS. For the future, a technology transfer of the SmartTex shirt for application in the field of fitness or even in telemedicine is conceivable.

Wireless Compose-2 (WICO2)
The project was planned and prepared by the German Aerospace Center (DLR) and its cooperation partners DSI Aerospace Technology, Hohenstein and the University of Bielefeld. The wireless communication network reads sensor data and can determine the position of people and objects in space by propagation times of radio pulses. It is also available as a platform for several experiments on the ISS. The determined data is temporarily stored within the network and read out at regular intervals by the astronauts. These data packets are then transferred to Earth via the ISS link and analysed by the research teams. It can generate its own energy from artificial light sources via solar cells.

ESA astronaut Dr. Matthias Maurer in summer 2021 during preliminary talks on the Cosmic Kiss mission in DLR's :envihab in Cologne. © DLR

Sensors measure physiological data during a test run on Earth. © DLR

With the "SmartTex" shirt, astronauts can wear the necessary sensors comfortably on their bodies. © DLR

Dr. Jan Beringer, Hohenstein Senior Scientific Expert. © Hohenstein

• Luc Tack und Stefaan Haspeslagh resign with immediate effect

The two members of the Board of Directors Luc Tack und Stefaan Haspeslagh announced on August 30, 2021, that they are resigning from the Board of Directors with immediate effect.

Rieter will inform the law enforcement authorities that there is no interest in continuing the criminal proceedings any further.

The Board of Directors welcomes the fact that a joint solution was found that is in the best interests of Rieter and Picanol, both of which are among the world’s leading textile machinery manufacturers.

According to Luc Tack, the Picanol Group (Belgium) will remain a shareholder of Rieter.