From the Sector

2024 is a turning point for the European textiles and clothing industry: From 6 to 9 June 2024, European citizens will vote for a new European Parliament and, based on the results, a new European Commission will be formed. In view of this important election, EURATEX publishes a Manifesto, presenting 15 requests which will help to ensure a competitive European textiles and clothing industry.

The textile and apparel industry is making a substantial contribution to European wealth, jobs and growth. Europe counts 192,000 companies employing 1.3 million workers with a turnover of €167 billion and over €67 billion of exports. Entrepreneurship should be recognised as the foundation for a competitive textile industry, offering high quality and sustainable products, based on innovation, creativity and design. European policy makers should recognise such role to textiles and apparel companies and have an open dialogue to create better framework conditions to operate in the internal and global markets.

To realise that vision, the industry and policy makers need to work together on a mix of policy measures and initiatives, which are coherent and offer a transparent and predictable framework for our companies, and make them more resilient and competitive.

These policies should focus around four points:

Develop and implement a “smart” EU industrial policy
Europe should create policies which enhance competitiveness, instead of creating administrative burdens. To EURATEX, each new piece of legislation should undergo a “competitiveness test” to critically look at the impact of the new rules. Europe should also create a favourable environment to promote education and jobs in the industry. The EU textile industry currently employees 1,3 million people, 30% of which is above 50 years old. A critical bottleneck for the textile industry is to attract (young) people and make sure these people have the right set of skills, to operate in a changing textile ecosystem. EURATEX also asks the EU to invest in innovation and digitalisation as they are key to the European competitive advantage. Not only, as the last years have proved, Europe should provide companies with access to sustainable energy at lower prices.

No sustainability without competitiveness
The EU Strategy for Sustainable Textiles is pushing our sector towards new business models with a lower environmental footprint. To realise that ambition, no less than 16 regulatory proposals are on the table, each of them with a different timetable, managed by different departments of the European Commission. EURATEX is committed to sustainability, but asks for economic realism. This set of new regulations needs to be coherent, enforceable, feasible and applicable for SMEs, and not push textile companies out of the market. Moreover, some member states are moving forward faster and some legislations will be decided at national level, creating fragmentation of the market. Such scenarios will hamper Europe and its possibilities to grow.

Ensure free and fair trade
With $224 billion in sold merchandise, Europe is the second major world exporters of textiles and clothes after China ($321 billion). It is therefore important that the global market should be open, free and fair for our industry to continue to thrive. Besides the support to FTAs in general, EURATEX wants to emphasise that all trade agreements should offer effective market access for EU companies and a level playing field in these markets. A free and open market should go hand in hand also with protection against free riders. The EU must always consider enforcement and enforceability when making new laws; it should also take action together with the member states for a better coordination with harmonised criteria for action among Customs Authorities.

Incentivise the Demand for sustainable textiles
Sustainable textile products typically come at a premium price, making it difficult for many consumers and buyers to purchase such products. Many surveys across Europe confirm that around 50% of interviewees do not purchase sustainable fashion products and the main reason is price. EURATEX believes that, to create a demand and help consumers to buy a (genuine) sustainable textile product, there should be standard requirements and fiscal incentives. Public authorities should also implement green public procurements, by increasing the importance of sustainability criteria in their evaluation grids.

from both inside and outside of Asia. Looking ahead, the stage will be set once again at the National Exhibition and Convention Center (Shanghai) next year, allowing exhibitors and buyers from the industry to match their trading needs onsite. Thanks to the resumption of global travel and the ongoing industry recovery, the next Autumn edition is slated to attract even more multinational fairgoers and diverse home and contract textile collections. The fair will return in 14 – 16 August 2024.

A recent study showed a significant rise in corporate travel in 2023, driven largely by the resurgence of live business events and the easing of restrictions following several turbulent years. Adding to this, the Chinese government has announced several measures in a bid to attract more international visitors, including a simplified visa application process as the latest initiative.
 
As one of the largest economies in the world, China is renowned for producing high-value products across the home textile spectrum, making Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles an essential stop for global suppliers and buyers aiming to kick off the next business season.  
 
Emerging markets have become a significant focus for the industry in recent years. China's exports of home textiles to the ASEAN market amounted to around USD 2.09 billion in the first quarter of 2023, with an increase of 18% year-on-year; of which around USD 1.38 billion was exported in finished goods, seeing a rise of over 42% year-on-year[3]. With this growth in trade, buyers from fast growing emerging markets are expected to increasingly benefit from the Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles platform to fulfil their sourcing needs.
 
The upcoming Autumn edition will continue to comprise a wide range of home textile products, including bedding & towelling, rugs, table & kitchen linen, upholstery & curtain fabrics, editors, home textile technologies and textile design.
 
Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles – Autumn Edition is organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd; the Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT; and the China Home Textile Association (CHTA).

The adoption of composite parts based on flax fibres by the Marine Industry continues to grow, with major OEMs as well as smaller shipyards now aiming to take advantage of the reduced carbon impact and impressive mechanical properties they can provide.

“Over the last ten or fifteen years, several innovative flax fibre boats have been built and the fibre has started to gain significant traction,” says Julie Pariset, Innovation & CSR Director at the Alliance for European Flax-Linen and Hemp. “In addition to the environmental benefits, manufacturers are realising significant technical and processing gains with flax fibre composites.”

“Flax is a very low-density fibre, with a high specific stiffness,” she explains. “It can be used to manufacture composite laminates with mechanical properties not dissimilar to typical E-glass composites and the coefficient of thermal expansion of a flax fibre epoxy part is also quite close to that of a carbon fibre part.” This allows the materials to work well in combined assemblies with carbon fibre composites and the flax parts are also highly impact resistant.

Flax fibres also provide acoustic and vibration damping in composite applications, as well as providing a warm and aesthetically pleasing appearance below decks.

ecoRacer30
As a member of the Alliance for European Flax-Linen and Hemp, Bcomp, headquartered in Fribourg, Switzerland, has this year been working with Northern Light Composites (nlcomp), based in Monfalcone, northern Italy, on the creation of what is billed as the first fully recyclable nine-metre-long sailing boat – the ecoRacer30.

The boat is based on nlcomp’s proprietary rComposite technology – a combination of thermoplastic resins and BComp’s ampliTex high-performance natural fibre reinforcement fabrics and patented powerRibs technology.

It was built in a collaborative effort with the help of Barcelona-based Magnani Yachts, which took care of the composite manufacturing, and Sangiorgio Marine, which provided technical assistance as the boat was being assembled at its shipyard in Genova, Italy.

Magnani Yachts has subsequently become the first shipyard to hold an rComposite license and others are now being encouraged to adopt the technology.

The second ecoracer30 is currently under construction and has already been sold and nlcomp is planning to build a fleet of eight of these boats in time to enter a series of regattas in the summer of 2025.

Flax 27 Daysailer
Greenboats, based in Bremen, Germany, is another specialist in building boats from natural fibre composites and has this year launched the Flax 27 daysailer.

The lower hull of this vessel is also made from Bcomp’s ampliTex technical fabrics in combination with a sandwich core of recycled PET bottles. Using a vacuum infusion process, the fibres were integrated with a plant-based epoxy resin in order to further reduce the CO₂ footprint of the vessel.

The light structure and modern shapes of the lower hull of the boat result in very fast, sharp and agile handling on the water.

Greenboats has also recently announced significant new backing from alliance member Groupe Depestele, which manages 13,000 hectares of flax land in Normandy, France.

Blue Nomad
A project in Switzerland has meanwhile proposed the use of flax fibre composites in solar-powered habitats designed for comfortable living on the oceans – as the world grapples with the frightening implications of climate change and rising sea levels.

As envisaged by students from Institut auf dem Rosenberg in St Gallen, Switzerland working with Denmark-based SAGA Space Architects, Blue Nomad structures would form modular blocks to establish large communities and oceanic farms.
 

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, has released a new report, North American Nonwovens Industry Outlook, 2022-2027. This report is the twelfth edition detailing demand data for 2017 through 2022, with forecasts to 2027 and provides analysis across end-use markets through 2027.

It includes:

• Economic and population drivers contributing to market growth over the next 5 years for markets in the U.S., Mexico, and Canada.
• Disposable, Filtration, Wipes, Medical and Other applications.
• Long-Life durable sectors for Transportation, Building and Construction, Furnishings, Geo and Agro Textiles, and Apparel.
• Key drivers for the demand models and reasons for market upsets like the COVID pandemic.
• A summary of historical and future trends that will affect the nonwovens market.

The report provides analysis across all nonwoven end-use markets, providing a comprehensive and accurate view of the total North American nonwovens industry. INDA redesigned this report to support strategic business planning and decision-making. The projections in the report were made by analyzing current market trends and drivers to highlight the market potential in terms of dollar value, units, and volume in both square meters and tonnage.

The new North American Nonwovens Industry Outlook report is available at 6,000.00 $, the discounted member price is 4,500.00

The Textile & Fashion Forum Helsinki 2023, organized by Finnish Textile & Fashion and EURATEX, highlights the discourse on sustainable practices within the textile and fashion industry. This two-day event, scheduled for 26-27 October at the Little Finlandia event center in Helsinki, will include a day of curated company visits.

Finland’s leading textile and fashion forum will showcase the industry's pioneering companies and their pursuit of a sustainable and resilient future. With insightful discussions, inspiring speakers, and thrilling business cases, the event drives transformation and sets new benchmarks for the textile and fashion sector.

The Textile & Fashion Forum Helsinki 2023 will focus on critical industry themes. The transformation of the textile and fashion industry relies on three key pillars: the creation of different circular business models matching growth with sustainability, a green and digital transition where information technology is necessary to deliver sustainability, and scaling the business, as how start-ups can make a leap and big companies can evolve their growth strategies. These three themes will be discussed in depth during the event.

The speaker lineup, drawn from Finland, Europe and beyond, demonstrates the expertise connecting on this platform. Noteworthy figures include Tiina Alahuhta-Kasko, President & CEO of Marimekko; Kai Mykkänen, Minister of Climate and the Environment of Finland; Marcus Hartmann, Head of Public Affairs & Sustainability at H&M; Liljana K. Forssten, Range Strategist at IKEA; and Virginijus Sinkevičius, European Commissioner (on video).

Ahead of the extra-ordinary Council on 6 October in Granada, EURATEX President, Alberto Paccanelli, and CIE President, Jose Vte Serna, call on the EU Presidency to develop a new competitiveness strategy, which can relaunch the European industry and ensure it will remain competitive in the decades to come. This means bringing together trade, energy, state aid and sustainability policies into a single, integrated, comprehensive approach, which can support a robust and modern European manufacturing industry.  
 
To consolidate a strong industrial structure in Europe, the Union should

1. secure the supply of clean energy at a competitive cost;
2. support innovation and foster the necessary talent pool and
3. be more assertive in achieving an international level-playing field on sustainability, based on the European model.  

During the past few years the implementation of incoherent and conflicting objectives under the trade, energy, industrial and sustainability policy has been observed. As a matter of fact, while the circular economy promised to be a recipe for a competitive industry of the future, the likelihood of pushing the EU industry out of the market and driving investment elsewhere than in Europe is very high. If this approach were to continue in the next years, it will result in a de-industrialised Europe, depending on imports from abroad. Such a Europe would be more exposed to geopolitical turmoil, with no agency to deliver its vision of peace, well-being and a healthy environment to its citizens.

It is fundamental for Europe to pursue a more coherent set of policies that put the competitiveness of its domestic industry at the core. In this context, all the industrial manufacturing sectors should be in the scope, including the textile industry, given its importance in providing essential products and applications to our society. A first impactful action that can be taken in this direction, would be to expand the scope of the Net-Zero Industry Act (NZIA) to include the textiles and clothing industry.
 
The history of European industry is fully woven in the birth and expansion of the European textiles industry since the XVIII century. Still today, the European textiles and clothing industry holds a pivotal position in the market, encompassing a diverse range of sectors and applications. In terms of employment, our industry creates 1,3 million direct jobs in Europe, encompassing a wide range of roles, from design and production to distribution and retail. European textiles have a wide range of applications, the most common one is of course clothing and fashion. The industry has a long history of producing high-quality apparel, with various regions specializing in specific niches.
 
Beyond clothing, there is a wide range of industrial sectors were textiles play an essential role, including  Automotive (used for upholstery, interior components, and even lightweight composite materials), Aircraft and Shipbuilding (where textiles are employed for their lightweight and high-strength properties, to enhance fuel efficiency, reduce emissions, and improve overall performance), Building and Construction (insulation, roofing, geotextiles, and architectural textiles), or Personal Protective Equipment, for medical personnel, firefighters, police and army officers. This includes masks, gowns, uniforms, helmets, and fire-resistant clothing, ensuring safety in hazardous environments.
 
Textiles are essential components of our society and our well-being. It is key for Europe to maintain its capacity to manufacture high-quality, sustainable and high-technology textiles.  With this in mind, the competitiveness policy of the future and the related funds to support it, should include the textile ecosystem in its scope.  

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, is partnering with the Waterloo Filtration Institute to deliver the FiltXPO™ technical program on October 10-11, 2023 in Chicago, Illinois. The Waterloo Filtration Institute was instrumental in recommending program topics and world-class presenters.

Engineers, scientists, and industry professionals will gain the latest insights into the filtration and separation topics affecting the industry today and into the future. The program features presentations include: filter media technologies, advancements and opportunities in filtration machinery and equipment, innovations in clean air for homes and urban areas, standards and testing, industry trends and new developments, and filtration challenges and opportunities.

The keynote for this year’s event is “IAQ Is the New Black” presented by Suzanne Shelton, President & CEO, Shelton Group. Shelton will share the latest data around consumer views on health, safety, people, and the planet. Participants will gain an understanding of the filtration opportunities and the challenges manufacturers face in communicating the value of their products.

A preview of the subject matter experts includes:

• AAF Flanders – “Air Filter Standards Activity and What It Means for Innovation”
• Ahlstrom – “Expanding Wetlaid Filtration Media Performance Through Innovation”
• Air Techniques International – “Application of Automated Filter Tester in Quality Control Testing: Importance of Consistent Aerosol Particle Size Distribution”
• American Truetzschler, Inc. – “How Really Good Filter Media Is Made”
• CEREX Advanced Fabrics – “The Antimicrobial Nylon Advantage”
• Elsner Engineering Works, Inc. – “When Does Automation Make Sense”
• Hollingsworth & Vose – “Accelerating Membrane Adoption with ROI”
• INDA – “Beyond Porter’s Five Forces – When Regulation Reshapes Markets”
• MANN+HUMMEL GmbH – “Filtration for Cleaner Urban Mobility – Introducing Horizon Europe Innovation Action Aersolfd”
• NatureWorks – “Optimizing Biopolymers to Improve Filter Performance – A Spectrum of Approaches and Opportunities”
• Palas GmbH – “Influence of Temperature and Humidity to Filter Efficiency and Dust Holding Capacity”
• Ptak Consulting – “Residential Filtration – Performance Against Infectious Aerosols”
• The University of Georgia – “Recent Advances in Melt Blown Nonwovens and Filter Media Research”

New this year to FiltXPO are Lightning Talks. Lightning Talks are an opportunity to connect with new trends, products, innovations, and ideas with speakers rotating every eight minutes. Presenting companies include Ahlstrom, Elsner Engineering Works, Inc., Gottlieb Binder GmbH, TSI, and the Waterloo Filtration Institute.

The FiltXPO exhibition takes place October 10-12 and will run concurrently with the technical program.

The new chairman of the Industrievereinigung Chemiefaser e. V. is Stefan Braun, managing director of Indorama Ventures Mobility Obernburg GmbH.

Braun, who had already held the chair twice between 2014 and 2020, was elected in June 2023 at the IVC annual members' meeting in Lenzing, Austria. Klaus Holz, Managing Director of Indorama Ventures Fibers Germany GmbH, was not available for re-election after one term as IVC Chair and two previous terms as Vice-Chair.

The IVC General Assembly appointed Dieter Feldmann, Managing Director of CERDIA Produktions GmbH, as Deputy Chairman. He succeeds Werner Häller, COO of Monosuisse AG, who did not stand for this position. The previous Treasurer of the IVC, Dr. Till Boldt, Managing Director of ENKA International Lux SE & Co. KG, was confirmed in office for the fifth consecutive term.

All elections took place according to rotation. Deviating from the usual mandate of 3 years, the Board of Directors had itself elected for a shortened term until June 2024.

IVC Managing Director Dr Wilhelm Rauch will leave IVC after almost 22 years when his contract expires on 31 January 2024 and will take on new tasks. The chemist with a doctorate and REACH expert is looking forward to making his expertise available to companies across sectors in the future.

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, announced the successful conclusion of the World of Wipes® (WOW) International Conference, July 17-20, Atlanta, Georgia. More than 495 senior-level leaders convened for new intelligence, connections, and business, which was a record turnout for the WOW event.

The 17^th edition of WOW featured almost 60 tabletop exhibits, 26 presentations, and two pre-conference webinars. The program introduced Lightning Talks, “supersized elevator speeches” covering new trends, products, and ideas, and a 1.5-day revised WIPES Academy training course. WOW also featured a mentorship program for participants new to the wipes industry.

The WOW speakers shared their expert insights in these key topics:

• Inflation, Supply Chain Issues, Capacity/Demand Balance
• Plastic Policy: Closing the Intention-Action Gap
• Sustainability and Manufacturing Practices
• Consumer Market Data and Trends
• Wipes Advancements
• Transparency in the Supply Chain
• Regulation, Innovation, Standards & Education in Flushability

World of Wipes Innovation Award^®
The winner of the World of Wipes Innovation Award was the Nonwoven Wipe Using Biotransformation Technology developed by Indorama Ventures and Polymateria. This innovative 100% polypropylene spunlace wipe utilizes advanced biotransformation technology, meeting the BSI PAS 9017 specification. The wipe is compatible with mechanical recycling however, in the event it becomes fugitive, and exposed to heat, sunlight, air and moisture, will transform into a harmless, bioavailable wax at its end-of-life, returning safely to nature without leaving behind microplastics or toxins. This polypropylene wipe represents a significant leap towards eco-friendly, sustainable nonwoven hygiene products.

INDA announced that WOW 2024 will be held June 17-20, at the Hyatt Regency Minneapolis in Minneapolis, Minnesota.

July 12, the European Parliament adopted its position on the Ecodesign Regulation, which aims to improve the environmental sustainability and circularity of products placed on the EU market, including textiles.

While EURATEX recognises the importance of accelerating the green transition and welcomes the progress on the legislation, it regrets the EP’s approach to target the textile industry in a Regulation designed to be a framework legislation for all sectors.  

Representing 160 000 European textile companies, EURATEX has been highlighting that a successful legal framework is based on an inclusive and feasible approach, ensures sufficient capacity and sets a timeline for businesses to adjust. Therefore, EURATEX welcomes MEPs’ call for tailored support and smooth transition for SMEs. Strongly advocated by EURATEX, the European Parliament also strengthens the provisions on market surveillance, which is a key element for ensuring level playing field for EU companies in the Single Market.

As businesses already face difficulties to navigate through all ongoing policy and legislative initiatives, EURATEX appreciates the efforts of the EP to ensure legislative consistency, the lack of which may only create additional costs and administrative burdens for companies. The inclusivity and transparency of the future Ecodesign Forum have indeed received a positive boost.

EURATEX regrets that the European Parliament has overlooked the plea for legislative coherence on substances of concern and for keeping the ESPR aligned with existing chemical legislation to avoid overlapping or conflicting regulation. EURATEX advises that social sustainability aspects should be addressed within the due diligence legislative framework.

Regarding the future Ecodesign requirements for textiles, these will have to be based on reliable data, and supported by thorough analysis and impact assessments. The requirements should be set out in the textile-specific Delegated Act and should be developed with relevant stakeholders.

As the ESPR trialogue negotiations between the European Parliament, the Council of the EU and the European Commission unfold in autumn, EURATEX continues to stress the guiding principle of “fit-for-purpose” rules and the balance between high environmental objectives and competitiveness of companies.

Moreover, on Tuesday 11 July, the European Parliament's position on Industrial Emissions Directive (IED) was adopted by MEPs with 396 votes in favour, 102 against and 131 abstentions. EURATEX expresses concerns on this text because of the inclusion of standalone finishing plants in the scope of the new IED. This creates inconsistencies with the recently finalised Textile BREF document (adopted in Sevilla by all parties), which regulates industrial emissions for both pretreatments and finishing plants. Standalone finishing companies, typically SMEs, now face challenges to comply with specifications which were originally designed for different and bigger companies.