From the Sector

ADVANSA and Asia Pacific Fibers (APF) join forces to launch REMOTION®, a premium fibre for sports and activewear, made from recycled ocean-bound plastic bottles with full end-to-end traceability from Prevented Ocean Plastic™. REMOTION® offers a solution for textiles that merges ocean protection with built-in biodegradability. The fibres break-down in marine environments to prevent microplastic pollution of the oceans, a problem which can be the consequence of fibre-shedding from apparel laundry waste-water.

Remotion® offers a solution with various sustainable features such as biodegradability and recyclability, with customized performance features such as anti-bacterial properties and moisture management built-in to the fibre. Moreover, the fibre is also offered in customer curated colours that guarantee very good colour fastness. Thus, this “all-in-one” fibre contributes to a sustainable and healthy environment with savings in water, energy, chemicals, and CO2. The fibre is available in a range of filament and staple options with two variants: REMOTION® Blue made from ocean-bound plastic bottles, REMOTION® Green made from domestic recycled plastic bottles.

REMOTION® Blue is a specially engineered polyester fibre made from ocean-bound plastic as a premium raw material with a social aspect. ADVANSA and APF are cooperating with Prevented Ocean Plastic™, a global recycling initiative that helps tens of thousands of people around the world to clean their coastlines, prevent ocean plastic pollution and earn additional income. Discarded plastic bottles are picked up by plastic collectors from coastal areas at risk of ocean plastic pollution and are taken to collection centres. The plastic bottles are then sorted out, cleaned and processed into raw material flakes which are used as a premium ingredient for REMOTION® Blue range of products.

ADVANSA and Asia Pacific Fibers are launching REMOTION® at the Performance Days in Munich from 3-5 October 2023.

Just in time for ITMA 2023 in Milan, the flat knitting machine manufacturer STOLL has launched its new collection COLOR IN KNITTING. It holds a range of knitting techniques that were ideated for novel super fine machine gauges such as the E20.

In addition, STOLL reveals its internal design workflow, showcasing how digital software tools can speed up the design process. The core of this is k.innovation CREATE DESIGN. Through the utilization of STOLL’s jointly developed design software solution, k.innovation CREATE DESIGN, in collaboration with @KM.ON, the shape and structures of a garment, can be digitally created, allowing for its simulation before it is even knitted. The interfaces to various external 3D software tools, allow for a realistic representation of the garment facilitating faster design decisions. Once the virtual knits, made in the CREATE DESIGN software are ready for manufacturing, it will be send to a knitting technician for further processing in k.innovation CREATE PLUS, This significantly speeds up product development while reducing communication issues between designers and technicians.

Sustainability and responsible handling of precious natural resources were key factors driving the development of the latest trend collection, COLOR IN KNITTING. STOLL-knit and wear®, a technique that stands for seamless knitted garments, can play a significant role in reducing waste. In addition, fewer process steps are required in the production chain - with advantages for production efficiency.
For another highlight of COLOR IN KNITTING, the STOLL creatives have worked on imitating different yarn effects with knitting technology such as slub yarn optics or the simulation of fabrics like crepe de chine/crepe georgette

On the occasion of the 150th anniversary of STOLL, COLOR IN KNITTING features a selection of vintage pattern replicates. These patterns can be found in STOLL’s extensive sample archives in Reutlingen. It is impressive to learn that all these former fabric constructions can still be replicated today and also reinvented with todays machine features. This approach showcases the steep progression of technical advancements over the past 150 years.

STOLL´s latest trend collection culminates in the creation of an invaluable resource: the book “Color in Knitting: By Designers, for Designers”. This publication aims to cater to a diverse audience by presenting a comprehensive guide to designing with colors using various flat knitting technologies and will be presented in the chapter "Book release".

adidas and Bogey Boys are introducing the adidas x Bogey Boys collection featuring crisp designs and high-quality performance materials that combine vintage styles from golf and tennis with a modern feel, all for easy on- and off-course wear. The limited-edition capsule featuring apparel and footwear for men and women will be available at select locations beginning Wednesday, June 14.

The adidas x Bogey Boys capsule introduces classic, clean, and sporty designs that give golfers the chance to express their style.  In refined white, altered blue and collegiate green colorways, pieces from the collection include:

• Two four-button placket polos with a higher collar stand
• A striped silhouette as well as a solid pique option with piping at cuffs and chest pocket
• Terry cloth track suit (jacket and pants) with white 3-Stripes detailing and adidas x Bogey Boys branding
• V-neck sweater vest in collegiate green with checkered white and green contrasting across the shoulders and small contrast lines running through rib hem and armholes
• Straight-leg trouser made with adidas’ WARPKNIT material featuring pintuck detail down front and back legs along with piping around pockets for a crisp finish
• Terry cloth romper with zip-front pockets, elastic waistband with pin buckle, back-right welt pocket and contrast white binding at armhole and leg opening
• High-waisted skirt that features a side-zip opening, front and back seams with kick pleats, triangle pocket inserts with piping detail, and zipper pocket back-center and adidas’ WARPKNIT material
• Playful graphic tee that includes a 'Welcome to the Clubhouse' message on the back featuring characters dressed in pieces of the collection sketched by Macklemore and the adidas team.

There will be a handful of accessories to complement the range including a five-panel rope hat, leather golf glove, and leather travel bag featuring croc texture with metal feet and hardware.

BDG [By Urban Outfitters] and ISKO have come together to develop a 10-piece collection made up of workwear-inspired denim pieces with finishing designs by British Artist, Dwayne Coleman.

Partnering with ISKO, Urban Outfitters has developed more sustainable denim pieces for this collaboration, utilizing recycled cotton yarns made from cutting waste. All pieces are washed using innovative technology to reduce the chemical, water, and energy footprint so that each item has a low environmental impact score. The development of these washes were done with the help of the experts at ISKO’s Creative Room London. The collection even features an innovative style that uses no virgin cotton, and yet the authenticity and durability remains the same.

The collaboration incorporates the principles of circular design, including minimal wash processing, recycled cotton content, minimal metal trims and removable shank buttons. The styles are designed to last, and after many wears they will be readily recyclable for their next life. Urban Outfitters are also members of Better Cotton whose mission is to help cotton communities survive and thrive, while protecting and restoring the environment as part of the brand's wider sustainability initiatives.

The collection designs pay homage to workwear trends to deliver an all-encompassing gender free denim capsule. The finishing touch across the range comes from established British Artist, Dwayne Coleman, who has created an artwork made with upcycled denim and paint techniques which has become the inspiration for denim surface treatment. Elements of his mark-making have been applied to the design of the collection, including wildflower embroideries, patching and hanging threads.

B.I.G. Yarns unveils its new “SustainableYarns” platform, with Clerkenwell Design Week visitors the first to be invited to get on board and focus on what matters most for the design and manufacture of sustainable soft floorings.

The expert in polyamide (PA) 1 step 3 ply yarns offers a range of options for manufacturers to introduce sustainable yarns into carpet solutions and reach sustainability targets faster and more efficiently.

The Sustainable Yarns range creates opportunities to design with recycled content yarn (EqoCycle), to work with renewable resources (EqoBalance), and, following the launch of new polyamide 6 (PA6) EqoYarn at Clerkenwell Design Week, to also leverage the low-impact value chain.

New addition EqoYarn is a new low-impact PA6 carpet yarn based on the most recent innovations in polymer production, which enable yarn manufacturers to lower their carbon footprint by nearly 50% and give carpet manufacturers more options to reduce their impact.

For its EqoYarn Bulk Continuous Filament (BCF) production process, B.I.G. Yarns has selected the few best-in-class partners that have made major steps forward in terms of sustainability, and reduced their greenhouse gas emissions thanks to continuous investments in process efficiency, green energy, heat optimization and waste reduction. The result is EqoYarn with a carbon footprint of 4 kg CO2 eq/kg yarns, which is a CO2 reduction of up to 50% compared to conventional PA yarns.

EqoBalance PA6 yarns enable customers to reach an even higher CO2 reduction of up to 75%. Manufactured with polymers made from renewable resources such as organic waste from cooking oil instead of virgin or fossil feedstock, these yarns have a carbon footprint of 1.98 kg CO2 eq./ kg yarns. They help carpet manufacturers to create products with an extremely low carbon footprint.

EqoCycle PA6 yarns are fully recyclable and incorporate 75% recycled content originating from recycled and regenerated PA6 granules. With a carbon footprint of 4.64 kg CO2 eq./ kg yarns, they deliver the same high-quality performance of virgin PA6 yarn with the benefit of 37% CO2 reduction. EqoCycle yarns offer carpet manufacturers a sustainable alternative to help reduce the ecological footprint of their products and move towards a circular economy without jeopardizing the end-product quality.

In addition to the different CO2-reducing options, B.I.G. Yarns’ customers can access an unlimited colour range to elevate their designs. Its BCF technology for polyamide yarns, twisted and heat-set yarns, one-colour to multi-colour, between 650 and 15000 dTex, along with its colour studio, are available to support their creation of customised collections.

SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD. of Wakayama, Japan, together with its Hong Kong subsidiary SHIMA SEIKI (HONG KONG) LTD., will participate in the 40th Session of SPINEXPO in Shanghai, China from 12th - 14th April 2023.

At SPINEXPO, SHIMA SEIKI will offer visitors a choice between its "SDS®-ONE APEX4" apparel design system and its "APEXFiz®" subscription-based design software. Whereas SDS®-ONE APEX4 is offered as an all-in-one proprietary hardware + software package, APEXFiz® is subscription-based design software that can be installed on customers' individual computers. Both SDS®-ONE APEX4 and APEXFiz® software support the creative side of fashion from planning and design to colorway evaluation, realistic fabric simulation and 3D virtual sampling. Virtual samples are a digitized version of sample making that are accurate enough to be used effectively as prototypes, replacing physical sampling and consequently reducing time, cost and material that otherwise go to waste. When a design is approved for production, knitting data is automatically generated for converting to machine data, allowing smooth communication for digitally bridging the gap between studio and factory. APEXFiz® thereby helps to realize sustainability while digitally transforming the fashion supply chain.

Also on display at SPINEXPO will be SHIMA SEIKI's "yarnbank®," an online web service for searching and viewing the latest yarns, developed with cooperation from yarn companies from around the world. Registered users can download yarn data for free, for use in fabric simulation and virtual sampling on APEXFiz®, avoiding the need to scan yarn on their own. By using yarn that is used in actual production, designers and apparel companies can furthermore rest assured that the simulations created using yarn from yarnbank® are not merely realistic images but accurate representations using yarn that can actually be purchased and used in production. With yarnbank®, the entire supply chain from yarn companies and apparel companies to knit manufacturers can be connected digitally.

SHIMA SEIKI will also display the latest collection of its knit samples, including WHOLEGARMENT® knitwear that is knit in its entirety on the machine without the need for linking or sewing afterward. Together with virtual sampling performed on APEXFiz®, WHOLEGARMENT® offers smart production for realizing a sustainable fashion supply chain.

The BOGNER Wanderlust styles transport the iconic BOGNER après-ski look into summer, combining details from hiking and active sports with fashionable urban silhouettes.

Vintage details from the BOGNER archives are reinterpreted through modern materials. Slightly cropped tops with dropped shoulders and voluminous sleeves meet piped pockets and striking hoods. BOGNER typical performance elements are combined with sustainability through natural materials like Bavarian Wool and recycled polyester. The highlights of the styles are prints by Viennese street artist Manuel Skirl capturing the spirit of wanderlust. The result is a creation of handmade and digitized prints that resemble a topographical map of a mountain.

• Iconic 200 Series fleece to be the first fabric made from this new process.

Polartec®, a Milliken & Company brand, announces Polartec® Shed Less Fleece, a new milestone in its industry-leading efforts to reduce textile fiber fragment shedding. Shed Less is a process that combines yarn construction, knitting, chemistry, and manufacturing to reduce home laundry fiber fragment shedding by an average of 85%. The first fabric to receive this new technology is the brand’s iconic Polartec® 200 Series Fleece, the modern version of the original PolarFleece® launched in 1981, and in 1993, the first performance fleece knit from yarn made from recycled plastic bottles.

The Shed Less process works by engineering the lofted fibers that give fleece its soft hand the ability to resist breaking and rubbing off during home laundering, cited as one contributing factor to the spread of fibers fragments (commonly referred to as microfibers). Polartec® Shed Less Fleece achieves this while maintaining all of the attributes that continue to make Polartec fleece a staple of midlayer collections - lightweight, breathable and warm.

The brand used the AATCC (American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists) TM212-2021 test method for fiber fragment release during home laundering. This test was conducted with large sample sizes to account for variability. The testing concluded that Shed Less Fleece reduced fiber fragment shedding by an average of 85% compared to the baseline fabric.

“In 2016 we began looking into how we might test for fiber loss because there wasn’t a lot of research on the issue.” said Aimee LaValley, Polartec Textile Development, Dye and Chemistry Manager. “This led to new products like Polartec Power Air™, new manufacturing processes, as well as our participation in the TextileMission workgroup to study the issue on an interdisciplinary basis.”

TextileMission was a three year collaborative initiative of academia and industry to reduce the impact of textile microplastics funded by the German Federal Ministry of Education and Research. Founding partners include The Association of the German Sporting Goods Industry, Hochschule Niederrhein - University of Applied Science; TU Dresden - Institute of Water Chemistry; Vaude Sport; WWF Germany; Adidas AG; Henkel AG; Miele & CIE; and Polartec, LLC.

Polartec® Shed Less Fleece will be initially launched in the United States and will be available to customers beginning March 1, 2023. The brand plans to apply the Shed Less process to many other industry-leading fabric platforms and manufacturing facilities around the world.

Stella McCartney hosted a party in L.A in celebration of her 18 year partnership with adidas and to present its new Spring/Summer 23 collection. Kicking off the biggest weekend in music, the collaboration took over LA’s famous Henson Recording Studios for an iconic evening that brought together music and fashion.

​A collaboration that has always pushed the limits, from innovation and sport style to working with pioneers across fashion, music and art, the party celebrated a partnership that continues to champion individual expression and inspires the new wave of trailblazers. ​Together, adidas and Stella McCartney are committed to finding new ways to create and support a better future through the fusion of recycled materials and key performance technologies.

The key collections showcased at the party include:​

• ICONS: Blending sport and style through contemporary cuts, the capsule sees iconic adidas by Stella McCartney designs reimagined in staple shades of black, grey and white – providing next-gen athletes with a timeless blank canvas to move with purpose. Featured for the first time is the Sportswear Run Shoe, an all-new gender-neutral silhouette made in part from natural and renewable materials.​
• TRUENATURE: Designed for exploring the world outside, the collection captures a contemporary take on Earth and weather satellite images alongside conceptual contours and ley lines of maps. With leading technologies such as Parley Ocean Plastic and WIND.RDY, the collection has been crafted to protect the next generation of active activists.

Beste x HeiQ AeoniQ™ announce their partnership with the launch of a capsule in the CARPINI collection at Milano Unica. The fabrics including HeiQ AeoniQ™ are crafted by the Italian textiles manufacturer Beste, well known for supplying high-end fabrics for premium and luxury brands.

The fabrics capsule collection for S/S 24 includes 12 articles made with 100% HeiQ AeoniQ™, linen, and HeiQ AeoniQ™ blends, and cotton and HeiQ AeoniQ™ blends in several different proportions.
The collection is named FLOW, as related to the movement of water and air to be in tune with Nature’s balance and rhythm, with a color range including hay, black, water, caramel, violet, dust, denim, lime, and cobalt.

With this initiative, Beste becomes the first partner to incorporate the HeiQ AeoniQ™ fiber into its active fabric portfolio, and also its Tessuteka, the library that keeps all the fabrics produced by the company since 1993.

For Carlo Centonze, HeiQ’s CEO “the partnership with Beste makes total sense for all the values embodied by HeiQ AeoniQ™ that we both share, namely its commitment to circular ethics, practice and promote sustainability, and have a positive impact in the environment while also creating new business opportunities that the market and the Planet so urgently need.”

According to Giovanni Santi, Beste’s CDA president: “Beste SpA benefit company is strongly committed to developing a positive and responsible impact over the environment and the social fabric it is surrounded by. To meet this precise criterion, we use HeiQ AeoniQ™, a new biodegradable fiber developed by HeiQ, a Swiss chemical company that is Beste's constant partner in this indispensable green revolution. The introduction of HeiQ AeoniQ™, namely a fiber that is cellulosic in nature but with characteristics and performances similar to polyester ones, concerns a significant step in the reduction of CO2 emissions and plastics. It is not only a responsible choice, but it also deals with a precise and courageous positioning in the constant battle in favor of our planet by starting from the textile innovation front.”

The new Beste x HeiQ AeoniQ™ fabrics will be displayed at Beste’s booth during the Milano Unica trade show from January 31st to February 2nd, in Milan, Italy.