From the Sector

Cobra International has launched an innovation report highlighting its key composite manufacturing innovations that have reshaped the Windsurfing industry.
Having first begun building windsurf boards in 1978, Cobra continues to drive technology development in the sport and 44 years later, manufactures approximately 80% of the world’s composite windsurf boards. Manufacturing for leading brands such as Fanatic, Starboard, Naish, RRD, JP and Quatro Goya, Cobra has consistently evolved and improved the construction and finishes of the boards that it builds, balancing stiffness, comfort, weight, strength, durability, and aesthetics.
Cobra’s report details key manufacturing innovations including:

• The introduction of its innovative vacuum moulding technique that Cobra perfected just as the popularity of the sport exploded.
• The manufacture of its own composite EPS forming moulds producing strong, watertight cores that are ready to use in production directly from the mould.
• The mass production of sandwich boards with thermoformed PVC foam wrapped around the rails, increasing the board’s strength whilst keeping weight to a minimum.
• Seamless rail construction
• High-volume manufacturing capacity optimized for the finest prepreg carbon foils satisfying the current demand for windsurf foiling equipment
• Development programs with on of the world’s leading carbon fibre fabric producers to create ever lighter biaxial fabrics.

“As we set aside time during the pandemic to upskill, innovate, and look to the future, it was also important that we referred back to our key technology successes. This got us thinking about so many of our developments which led us to create this innovation report. Customers can draw great confidence from the fact that the Cobra team is always working on tomorrow’s next generation product as well as building exceptional quality into each of today’s boards.” Bruce Wylie, CCO, Cobra International

International textile producers meet again in Istanbul, Turkey, from June 14 – 18, 2022 on the occasion of the ITM + Hightex Exhibition. In Hall 9 (Hightex) the exhibitors will present the complete industry value chain from nonwovens raw materials, production machines and accessories to the endproduct. The related industries covered include hygiene, filtration, fabrics and apparel, medical, automotive, wipes, home furnishings and upholstery. DiloGroup offers tailor-made production systems from one supplier and will inform about its portfolio and the latest equipment developments from fibre opening to the finished felt.

DiloGroup will inform about complete lines as well as high speed needlelooms for spunbonds. A new, simplified elliptical needle beam drive makes Hyperpunch technology also attractive for standard application. Hyperpunch HαV allows a more uniform stitch distribution in the preneedling process especially in combination with the new needle pattern 6000X. In a complete needling line this felt homogenization process can be improved further. The new needle pattern 8000X is a milestone in the needle pattern development process and results in endproduct surfaces with low markings over a wide range of advances/stroke.

Another strong pillar of the sales program over decades has been fibre preparation and high speed webforming equipment for other nonwoven technologies. The further development of the high-speed layering principle “Hyperlayer” made progress for better CD strength through a combination of inline cards and crossline card with crosslapper. Particularly, carding machines in a working width above 3.5 m up to 5.1 m have been supplied by DiloSpinnbau as complete high speed carding systems, comprising two or even three cards in a line to directly feed the hydroentangling units of various suppliers. Together with DiloTemafa not only have high throughput rates been achieved in the fibre preparation section of the line but also dedusting filtering and air-conditioning systems have been successfully engineered and integrated.

Together with Sicam, Dilo has combined know-how for hydroentangling technology and therefore can provide complete lines as general contractor including equipment for cutting, winding and packaging.

Another interesting machine is the 3D-Lofter, first presented during ITMA 2019 in Barcelona, which offers a wider range of nonwovens applications by exploring the third dimension. A series of single web forming units which work according to the aerodynamic web forming principle deliver defined fibre masses in varied patterns on a base needlefelt. A stress oriented production of technical formed parts resulting in fibre savings or patterned DI-LOUR or DI-LOOP felts with or without repeat are two examples for this technology which explores new application areas for needlefelts.
The 3D-Lofter technology may also be used “inverted” as “IsoFeed” for filling up bad spots in web mats and thus achieves a better homogeneity of spunlace or airlay products.

The DiloLine 4.0 concept offer I4.0 modules which not only support the user but also facilitate quality control and maintenance by a maximum data transparency in production and control of operation. The Dilo solutions “Smart Start” for a fully automatic start of the production line or “DI-LOWATT” for energy savings are accompanied by Siemens solutions which can be selected via App or Data Cloud “MindSphere”.

• Svegea, a member of TMAS, the Swedish textile machine association, is marking a company milestone this year at Texprocess in Frankfurt from June 21-24  – the 70th anniversary of its automatic collarette cutter.

 On its introduction back in 1952, this machine – used by garment manufacturers around the world for the production of tubular apparel components such as cuff and neck tapes and other seam reinforcements – caused a sensation with its then-unprecedented output of 300 metres per hour.

Time doesn’t stand still, however, and the latest EC 300 machine Svegea will demonstrate at Texprocess 2022 has a slightly improved output – of around 20,000 metres per hour.

“Advances in automation are only making the specialised, bespoke machines we engineer even more efficient and we are expecting a very busy show in Frankfurt and a busy year,” says Svegea Managing Director Håkan Steene. “The garment components our collarette cutters produce make it logical for them to be integrated into the operations of making-up operations wherever they are, and at the moment we’re seeing a lot of interest in the reshoring of operations by our customers, to bring final-stage manufacturing closer to the key European and US markets.”

E-Drive 2
The EC 300 collarette cutter on show in Frankfurt is equipped with the latest E-Drive 2 system providing the operator with a very user-friendly touchscreen, providing full control of the cutting process.

The integrated, fully automatic FA500 roll slitter accommodates diameters up to 400mm and is equipped with three separately adjustable settings enabling three different band widths to be cut within the same cutting cycle. Automatic tube sewing units are provided for sewn tubes in optional rolled or flat folded forms, depending on customer preference.

Niche applications
Svegea supplies many other bespoke machines for applications in the production of both garment components and technical textiles, including rewinding, measuring, inspection and band knife machines.

The ability to produce tubular fabric which is cut on the bias allows customers to provide textiles which not only have improved drape and elasticity properties for complex and intricate shapes, but also offer ways to reduce production costs by eliminating unnecessary wastage from the manufacturing process. Pre-cutting the fabric to a specific bias reduces extra handling of the fabric in further processes, saving customers both valuable production time and costs.

The Italian company presented its newest innovations and synergies, among the introduction of SMART O3, a new Ozone Booster improving the bleaching on indigo, and the educational experience Circular Explorations: Recipe for Change, in collaboration with Adriana Galijasevic’s Cocircular Lab at Denim Première Vision.

The Trustainable™ collection FW 23 presents the SMART 03
For Officina39, “Trustainable” is a term that expresses the company’s approach based on honesty, transparency and social responsibility: this attitude once again characterizes the technologies that have given shape to the Trustainable™ collection FW 23.

The latest technological addition to the line is represented by the new Ozone Booster SMART 03,
which assures more final bluish indigo shades, activating the reaction of Ozone on indigo without any strong oxidizing agent. Better results, less aggressive bleaching.

Less water, plus sustainability, empowered result
The new collection also marks the debut of Aqualess Fade, a technology that recreates the bleaching effect of chlorine on fabrics, a waterless special compound for the discoloration of denim on indigo/black garments which reduces resource consumption and environmental impact. This newest innovation completes and integrates Aqualess Mission, a combination of technologies that allows garment laundry processes to reduce 75% of the water use.

Officina39 and Adriana Galijasevic join forces
Circular Explorations: Recipe for Change is the collaborative and educational project developed by Officina39 and Adriana Galijasevic’s Cocircular Lab, showcasing the use of waste as a resource and prolonging the life of the garment through color. Several brands (C.P. Company, Tommy for Life/PVH Corp., Organic Basics, Asics, Lenzing and Camo) donated overstock garments as well as second-grade production or damaged, unsold pieces to be updated with newly developed applications made with Officina39’s Recycrom™, patented dyestuffs range made from textile waste.

Denim Première Vision marks the denim ingredient brand’s return to the tradeshow scene. Under the spotlight is “Iconic by nature”, ISKO’s show concept illustrates the company’s journey of evolution led by its signature Responsible Innovation™ approach. On this occasion, ISKO launches its 2023 Collection Vol.2 with new technologies, finishes and colors, and expressing the company’s passion for a cleaner and safer planet, laying the new foundations of ISKO’s sustainable fashion revolution.

The entire 2023 Collection Vol.2 contains recycled materials, and the majority consists of R-TWO™50+ fabrics made with a minimum of 50% recycled fibers, entirely GRS certified, resulting in less use of natural resources and a reduced carbon and water footprint of up to 45% and 65% respectively. An important and responsible development of this collection is that it features denim containing recycled and/or regenerated fibers, through unique fiber technology significantly saving on resources and energy while allowing for controlled traceability along the supply chain.

The new collection features comfortable ISKO Reform™ Xp 100, allowing for a flattering fit and enhanced shape retention; ISKO Reform™ Hp, characterized by incredible holding power, granting a more streamlined and slimmer appearance; ISKO Blue Skin™, a stretch technology that works 4-ways to respond to the body’s movement like a second skin; ISKO Pop™, a patented concept that starts from the yarn, developed to give a touch of glamour with a soft cotton hand feel. Colors are key in the new collection too, with an important aspect regarding the use of mineral colors, natural dyestuffs.

At Techtextil from 21-24 June in Frankfurt, Mahlo will be demonstrating how manufacturers of technical textiles can optimise their production even further using measuring and control technology.

Special straightening technology for technical textiles
Mahlo's range also includes solutions for straightening distorted goods. Best suited for technical textiles are, for example, the symbol of the straightening machine, the Orthopac RVMC-15 and the reinforced version Orthopac GRVMC-15. Frame, bearings, and rollers are designed for high loads and allow large working widths of up to 5,400 mm. As the latest development from Mahlo, the experts present the Orthopac CRVMC-15 automatic straightener, which is particularly interesting for the glass & carbon fabric industry and some special applications.

The Mahlo team will present the wide portfolio of intelligent scanners and sensors that record product and process parameters, such as distortion, fabric temperature, dwell time, basis weight, coating weight, thickness, moisture content, residual moisture, exhaust moisture, air permeability, etc. online. Among other things, visitors can expect to see the Famacont PMC-15 weft density measurement system in live operation. The system measures the weft or course density on the running web and compares it with the target value stored in the recipe data management system. The detected deviation from the target value is used to fully automatically control the overfeed during the needling process at the stenter frame and to ensure a constant weft/course density over the full width of the product.

• ROICA™ V550 by Asahi Kasei for its responsible RF (Residual Free) line

Innova Fabrics, the Italian manufacturer of knitted fabrics for apparel, underwear and sports, confirms its choice of ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei, the Japanese leader of premium stretch fiber, for its new responsible line RF (Residual Free).

Despite the deep-rooted history of the company's team in the world of textiles, Innova Fabrics is a reality that is not afraid to innovate with a focus on environmental sustainability. As a result of its push for local production and attention to third-party sustainability certifications (including OEKO-TEX Standard 100, one of the world's best-known labels for textiles tested for harmful substances), Innova Fabrics continues its promise of responsibility with an enrichment of its conscious proposals. In the last season, Innova has increased its smart proposition by launching the RF (Residual Free) line, with the aim of reducing the impact of microplastics residues produced by the fashion industry. This is possible thanks to the combination of two responsible ingredients: SENSIL® Biocare by Nilit and ROICA™ V550 by Asahi Kasei.

SENSIL® BioCare is the premium, sustainable nylon 6.6 fiber enriched with a special technology that helps reduce the persistence of textile waste in the ocean and landfills by acting during and after the product's life cycle. Therefore, if the microplastics in SENSIL® BioCare garments are released during washing, they will decompose much faster than conventional Nylon 6.6 fibers, reducing textile waste. ROICA™ V550, part of the ROICA Eco-Smart™ family, is the premium, sustainable stretch yarn that degrades without releasing harmful substances into the environment, according to the Hohenstein's environmental certification. ROICA™ V550 also carries the Gold Level Material Health certificate from the Cradle-to-Cradle Product Innovation Institute, which evaluated the yarn's impact on human and environmental health. The strong relationship established between Innova Fabrics and ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei is a long-standing one: from the very beginning, the textile company chose ROICA™ as its main reference for premium stretch, using ROICA Colour Perfect™ in most of its articles. Having experienced the innovation of the ROICA™ line dedicated to high-quality color, Innova decided to opt for the ROICA Eco-Smart™ line as part of the extension of its environmentally conscious line.

Thanks to the constant synergy with its premium partner in innovative and responsible stretch, Innova continues its path towards a textile and fashion industry that respects the planet, without forgetting profit. And this is just the beginning. Innova Fabrics pieces containing SENSIL® BioCare and ROICA™ V550

• Innovation packages from STOLL - a company of the KARL MAYER Group

Optimizations, further developments and innovations are an integral part of STOLL's activities. The industry leader in flat knitting technology has recently launched a new offering in the form of defined innovation packages. The aim here is to make STOLL's high innovative strength even clearer and enable customers to benefit from it more quickly. "The demands made on flat knitting technology are changing all the time, whether in the case of technical textiles for transportation and furniture fabrics or medical solutions well as in the fashion sector, where new yarns - such as recycled yarns or innovative technologies, such as smart textiles - have to be taken into account all the time," knows Erhard Vöhringer, Sales Manager of the STOLL Business Unit in the KARL MAYER Group "Our customers always have to keep abreast of the latest developments. We are therefore continuously developing appropriate improvements, and with our innovation packages we are now offering even more detailed demand-oriented solutions."

Detail optimisations for more overall performance
The innovation packages have the benefits for customers in focus and were tailored to the respective target groups. Every optimization contained therein leads to a decisive improvement in production. All of the solutions developed can be easily integrated into existing STOLL machines.  

Innovation package Number One
Innovation package Number One will be launched on the market in a few weeks' time and is aimed explicitly at knitters who focus on technical textiles. The focus is on convenience and process acceleration. Simple network configuration, expansion of the number of NP values, extended functionality when loading and saving the pattern and also improvement of handling in connection with Production Management from PPS are just some of the features of the package. "The corresponding updates for the machine control system are available to our customers for download free of charge on Customer_Net. In the future, there will also be a cloud-based offering," explains Erhard Vöhringer.

Innovation package Number Two
Still in the pipeline, included in the Number Two innovation package, are improvements for the maintenance area – regarding the use of lubricants and the maintenance intervals (predictive maintenance) – as well as optimizations in terms of sustainability, for example when it comes to reducing consumption of oil and increasing reliability. These solutions will be suitable for all machine types and applications.
The focus here is on improvements in belt take-down, the import and export of data and support for additional storage feeders.
A physical improvement in handling is promised by the new lighting including mirror directly on the machine.
In addition, the development teams are currently working on optimizing various knitting qualities and increasing user-friendliness. So you can already be curious!

Concentrated innovative power
The STOLL development team, with several hundred engineers and technicians in the fields of electronics, software, patterning, and design, never runs out of topics. Questions like "What is the market looking for? What do customers want?  Which changes do the machines have to meet and which ones do the software control and design program have to meet?" are first discussed, evaluated and debated together as a team and then go into the development phase. "Our customers can be absolutely sure that all our innovations are meticulously tested before we go to market with them" emphasizes Erhard Vöhringer. This also applies to the solutions in the innovation packages.

Small solutions, big impact
STOLL flat knitting machines impress with their great application and production potential. Almost 150 years of extensive practical experience in flat knitting technology - the STOLL company was founded in 1873 - is unique in the industry. As a Business Unit of the KARL MAYER Group, STOLL continues to do everything in its power to inspire its customers with innovative strength. Productive, flexible and reliable - simply STOLL! This slogan has not lost any of its meaning today. Quite the contrary: With the new innovation packages, customers benefit not only from the latest high-tech flat knitting machines, but also from an always up-to-date performance upgrade of their existing machine park.
With its innovation packages, STOLL has found a flexible and very fast way directly to the customer. Anyone who wants to know more about this is cordially invited to this year's trade fairs. STOLL looks forward to seeing you at the KARL MAYER Group stand at ITM (Istanbul), Techtextil (Frankfurt), Techtextil India (Mumbai) and ITMA ASIA. (Shanghai).

Officina39 will attend the Bangladesh Denim Expo in Dhaka on 10-11 May, a new edition after a two-year break, characterized by a focus on sustainability and the central theme "Beyond Business".

Officina39 has been committed for years to the reconversion of the sector’s technologies to an environmental point of view: this attitude is expressed in its latest Trustainable™ collection FW 23, based on the approach of honesty, transparency and social responsibility that drives the company. Officina39 will present Aqualess Fade, a technology just recently presented at Kingpins that recreates the bleaching effect of chlorine on fabrics, a waterless special compound for the discoloration of denim on indigo/black garments which is reducing resource consumption and environmental impact.

Aqualess Fade completes and integrates Aqualess Mission, a combination of technologies that allows garment laundry processes to reduce 75% of the water use. Until now, the process included three eco-friendly technologies: Novascraper Indigo, a laser finishing technique that adds a natural, vintage look to denim garments; OZ-ONE Powder, an advanced product to give garments a bleached yet eco-friendly treatment, for a worn and distressed look; and Aqualess Aged, a waterless compound to give denim abrasion effects. Specifically, this last revolutionizing product has recently marked an important achievement which adds to the company’s sustainable credentials: Officina39 received, for its Aqualess Aged, the DeniSafe® certification of enzyme product(s) by Novozymes for safe production and safe use through dry application.

Bangladesh Denim Expo is also ideal for presenting the results of The Circle Book 2, the second chapter of a collective project gathering ten high-profile players of the textile supply chain. Officina39’s Recycrom™ technology and the expertise of Meidea, Lenzing, Tejidos Rojo, Calik Denim, Ribbontex, Spring85, Dr. Bock Industries, Crafil and RGT have merged together on the development of CULTURE.IN, a circular capsule collection transparently made from recycled and degradable materials: a practical demonstration of how the fashion industry can improve considering social and environmental impacts and goals.

Turkish company Altun Tekstil, a manufacturer of home textiles and upholstery fabrics, has ordered a total of five of the latest Orthopac RVMC-15 weft straighteners from Mahlo.

The production of textured yarns, weaving and raschel knitting as well as dyeing and finishing is included in Altun’s operations. While the focus is on tulle curtains and upholstery, the company’s fabric range also encompasses a wide variety for apparel.

When investing in the future, Altun Tekstil has consistently trusted in Mahlo and has installed 10 Mahlo Orthopac RVMC-15 weft straighteners in its two plants since 2016.

Lowest residual distortion at highest speed
All the Mahlo weft straighteners Orthopac RVMC-15 are integrated into existing production lines. Mahlo’s latest weft straightener is fit to interact and communicate via the newly mSmart concept with all production lines and provide historical data, which help to improve the production processes.

The fully integrated units benefit from universal control technology and the intuitive Mahlo mSmart G15 visualization concept. The HMI has been optimized for userfriendliness. The visualisation concept is constantly enhanced and ready for Industry 4.0. The path to a digital future within Altun is prepared.