From the Sector

JEC WORLD 2019 is turning Paris into the composites capital of the world.

As well as dozens of conferences, composites circles and live demos, plus hundreds of other events, the first day of the show was marked by the announcement of the three winners of the largest international startup competition in the composites field!

In the last three years, 270 projects have been picked out from over 30 countries, with 30 finalists and a total of nine winners.

THREE WINNERS
Ten finalists selected from 120 entries pitched to an international jury. The pitch session opened with an inspiring speech by Enrico Palermo, President of The Spaceship Company. He introduced the next generation of reusable space vehicles and their impact on costs, safety and the environment during the launch into space.
The programme incited enthusiasm from Peter Hopwood, founder of Hopwood Communications, who encouraged the finalists to develop their stage presence and galvanise their pitches.

At the afternoon’s award ceremony, three competitors were selected for the following prizes:

AIRGO DESIGN (Singapore)
World's first full composite economy class passenger seat developer.
www.airgodesign.com

AREVO (USA)
Delivering the future of composite manufacturing today through breakthrough advancements in software, materials, and robotics. Through enabling the 3D printing of large, mass-produced parts and structures, AREVO is revolutionizing mainstream manufacturing and the global supply chain.
www.arevo.com

WOODOO (France)
Augmented wood.
https://woodoo.fr

The public vote: LAVOISIER COMPOSITES (France)
New generation of material entirely sourced from the French aerospace transformation sector.
www.lavoisier-composites.com

With portfolio expansion and future development of the industry in sight, the organisers of Texprocess India and Gartex India have entered into a strategic alliance to form a unified industry platform ‘Gartex Texprocess India’. The event will be part of Messe Frankfurt’s Texpertise Network leveraging on the group’s strong global network and expertise in the sector.
 
Leading in both apparel consumption and exports, India holds the second largest textile manufacturing capacity globally with the textile machinery sector witnessing a growth of 8-10 percent year on year. As the world's second largest exporter of textiles and clothing projected to reach USD 300 billion by 2024, Indian apparel manufacturers are moving towards increasing their manufacturing capacities and upgrading technology, giving rise to automation garmenting processes to enter the Indian market. Having made its debut in 2016, both Texprocess India and Gartex India received tremendous response from the industry with leading associations and companies in the garment and textile machinery sector coming forward to support the shows.
 
At the internationally renowned Texprocess, exhibitors from around the world converge to present the latest machines, plants, processes and services for the manufacture of garments and textile and flexible materials. While Texprocess India was launched as a pavilion to create an innovation platform for garment-manufacturing and textile processing at Techtextil India tradeshow in Mumbai, Gartex India exhibition was held annually in New Delhi and has grown wider in scope covering not just garment and textile manufacturing value chain but has also added segments like innerwear manufacturing zone, Laundry & Denim show along the way in addition to digital textile printing, embroidery and other existing verticals. With the merger of the two strong textile trade fair brands, the organisers, Messe Frankfurt Trade Fairs India Pvt Ltd and MEX Exhibitions, aspire to work in collaboration for India’s textile industry development, facilitating global sourcing and networking in the textile value chains.

Starting from ROICA Eco-Smart™ family by Asahi Kasei the range of responsibly made premium stretch yarns for everyday life and continuing with Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei, a noteworthy material made from the smart-tech transformation of cotton linter bio-utility waste, converted through a traceable and transparent closed loop process. Since 1931, Bemberg™ is the material definition for responsible luxury, a one-of-a-kind, matchless and original options characterized by cool exquisite comfort, whose smart heritage is born in a circular economy.

A great example of circular economy / circularity is represented by ECOTEC® by Marchi&Fildi, a new exclusive range of smart textile design solutions produced through an exclusive, fully traceable and certified production process. The ability to transforms pre-consumer cuts into an excellence material with a yarn that contains up to 80% of transformed material, a result unequalled in the textile world is the perfect confirmation of the concrete commitment to responsible innovation by Marchi&Fildi.
 
A. Stelloni Collection by Mapel, a renowned textile company with a vast experience in the production of fabrics of the highest quality, will showcase an exclusive range in Re.VerSo™ wool, cashmere and Baby Camel, created out of the deep experience of the Re.VerSo™ supply chain and its sure knowledge of fabric production.

China is the world's largest producer and exporter of nonwoven fabrics, as well as having the largest consumer market for products made from nonwovens, making the upcoming biennial China International Nonwovens Expo & Forum (CINE – supported by Techtextil) the place to be for industry players from 3 – 5 June. This year’s event will relocate to a different venue, the Shanghai Convention & Exhibition Center of International Sourcing, located conveniently between Hongqiao airport and downtown Shanghai.

“The nonwovens market has been one of the fastest growing sectors of the Chinese textile industry over the last decade, and we expect this to continue in the coming years,” Wendy Wen, Senior General Manager of the fair’s co-organiser, Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd, commented. “The demographic changes, evolution of the manufacturing sector and greater awareness of environmental protection that have driven growth in China, among other factors, are also evident in a number of markets in the region, particularly Southeast Asia, so we anticipate production growth will remain strong to meet export demand, even if the Chinese economy slows further.”

Reports by the China Nonwovens & Industrial Textiles Association (CNITA), the Freedonia Group and Smithers Pira support this. Nonwovens output in China grew year-on-year by 9.67% for the first 11 months of 2018, exceeding the corresponding figure for 2017 of 8.71%, while demand for nonwovens is predicted to reach 4.9 million metric tons in 2022, a 6.9% per year increase over this period.

Turning to the region, in 2015 Asia occupied 43.1% of the global nonwovens market – with China alone accounting for more than half of the share – with this figure expected to increase to 47.1% in 2020. The Freedonia report also notes that healthy growth in markets nearby to China such as India, Indonesia, Malaysia, the Philippines and Vietnam will also fuel nonwovens output in the country to meet export demand.

Globally, nonwovens demand is expected to increase 4.4% per year to 12.2 million metric tons in 2022, with developing regions being the main driver of this, in particular within Asia-Pacific. In the PP nonwovens sector, output is predicted to nearly double between 2013 and 2020, with the major drivers of this growth being baby diaper, adult incontinence and feminine hygiene products. In the durable nonwovens sector, annual growth of 6 to 7% for the period 2017 – 2023 is also anticipated for filtration, engineering construction and packaging uses.

• Innovative BCF S8 platform technology opens up new carpet yarn industry markets for Oerlikon Neumag customers

World premiere at the DOMOTEX World Trade Fair for Carpets and Floor Coverings in Hanover: between January 11 bis 14, 2019‎, Oerlikon Neumag will be showcasing its innovative new development, the BCF S8, to a wide audience for the very first time in Hall 11, Stand B36. Whether commodities or niche products – the new BCF S8 platform technology offers manufacturers of BCF carpet yarns decisive arguments for responding to constantly rising cost pressures and the trend for greater efficiency and quality in fiercely-competitive markets. World record: the system achieves never-seen-before spinning speeds and is able to simultaneously spin up to 700 filaments and produce fine titers of up to 2.5 dpf. This superlative performance is guaranteed by numerous individual innovations in the new platform and, for the first time, also in a new human-machine interface (HMI)-based control system, which opens the door to the digital age of smart carpet yarn manufacturing wide. At the ITMA ASIA 2018, the Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment had already announced that it would be presenting revolutionary solutions in 2019 – both in hardware and software. And the DOMOTEX marks only the start.

According to manufacturer information, the new BCF S8 is the most efficient Oerlikon Neumag BCF system of all times. “We have succeeded in achieving a new level of greater productivity and even broader product diversity. These allow our clientèle to better cater to changing market requirements and achieve a competitive edge in tough market conditions”, explains Martin Rademacher, Vice President Sales Oerlikon Neumag. As a pre-taste, the machine specialists from Neumünster are serving up performance figures and results from comprehensive trials conducted at their own BCF technology center as well as from two pilot systems which have been tried and tested within the market for months now.

BCF S8 performance in numbers
With up to 700 potential filaments per yarn end, the BCF S8 is raising the benchmark considerably compared to the Oerlikon Neumag S+ BCF system (400 filaments) that has dominated the global market to date. Oerlikon Neumag guarantees fine titers of up to 2.5 dpf. Furthermore, the process speed is higher than ever before – 3,700 m/min (winder speed). This permits throughputs of up to 15 percent greater compared to predecessor technologies. Overall, system efficiency is 99 percent – almost unbeatable. True to the Oerlikon Segments Manmade Fibers segment e-save philosophy, energy savings of up to 5 percent per kilogram of yarn are achievable.

BCF S8 innovations – from straight yarn paths to large cooling drums

This comprehensive progress has been achieved with numerous smart innovations. To this end, one key element above all has been optimized. The yarn path from the spinning system to the new, large cooling drum has now been almost completely straightened. This yarn path, unique to the BCF market to date, ensures that the individual filaments are subjected to minimum friction, hence once again considerably reducing yarn breaks and optimizing the overall production process. Especially noteworthy here are the, for the first time, straight yarn inlet in the texturing head – guaranteeing superior yarn quality.

And the considerably reduced distance between the heating godet duo and the texturing head also has a positive impact on the texturing process. It ensures a more even twist to the yarn and reduces the compressed air consumption. Furthermore, the texturing chambers can be removed individually, which additionally shortens servicing times. The now closed units also provide the best possible protection for the texturing jets and lamellar chambers.

The 800-mm diameter cooling drum optimally and gently cools the filaments. And this has a positive influence on the yarn quality. The new cooling drum is now equipped with a V groove for all polymers (PET, PA6 and PP) as standard.

The RoTac3 tangling unit, already established within the market, once again reduces the compressed air consumption by around 50%, while the newly-developed Witras III-37 winder achieves production process speeds of 3,700 m/min.

First intuitively-operable human-machine interface (HMI)
The new BCF S8 is the first Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment system equipped with the innovative human-machine interface (HMI) for intelligent controlling and monitoring. In this case, the interface between man and machine has been oriented on the daily requirements of users in BCF production. With its new ‘look and feel’, it supports intuitive operation and offers direct access to important information as well as actual and target values at each take-up position by means of a touch screen. A completely new ‘alarm philosophy’ also simplifies troubleshooting and malfunction analysis. “This smart HMI system is a logical step in the digitalization of our products”, explains Dr. Friedrich Lennemann, Vice President R&D Oerlikon Neumag.

• STOP TALKING. START ACTING.
• Climate change is real. And so is the responsibility of every human being to help in reducing waste.

We no longer want to talk about sustainability, we want to act. For January, PREMIUM is partnering with Spanish fashion label and sustainable clothing pioneer ECOALF. The brand will present its lifelong mission and latest collection in a dedicated space as well as an art installation together with conceptual artist Juan Garaizabal.

"2019 is all about digital first and an active debate about social and environmental issues. Transparency and sustainability are key words. By reducing plastic waste on all our shows, teaming up with ECOALF and giving this wonderful brand dedicated space and time for spreading their message, we are taking steps into right direction. Every little action counts. We should talk about the things we do more instead of talking about what we are not doing. We all need to wake up. Now.” – Anita Tillmann, CEO PREMIUM Group

ECOALF creates high-quality garments using recycled materials collected from the bottom of our oceans. Commitment, sustainability and innovation are at the core of everything the company does, resulting in both conscious and stylish urban, adventure, knitwear and activewear pieces.   
 
“I love collaborating with people that also believe we have the opportunity to change the world for the better. It’s no longer about what you do, but how you do it. It is important to stand up for what you believe in, because fashion cannot just be about looking good.” – Javier Goyeneche, President and Founder of ECOALF. 

On Wednesday, January 16th, at 10am and 2pm, Goyeneche will present his brand’s values, philosophy and way of working on the experience floor of SHOW&ORDER X PREMIUM at Kühlhaus, right next to the STATION area. Show visitors, media and other exhibitors are invited to listen, learn and discuss.   
 
The art piece in partnership with Garaizabal unveiled at PREMIUM on January 15th is filled with waste to portray our everyday reality, and purposefully interactive so that visitors can throw their own trash inside the installation. The aim is to educate about correct waste disposal and show that every individual’s decision matters: Stop, Think, Act.

• conceptual and commercial garments presented at exhibition in London

After two years of research Mistra Future Fashion is honoured to present, in collaboration with Centre for Circular Design at University of the Arts London and Filippa K, an exhibition pushing the limits of ‘fast’ and ‘slow’ fashion. Started in 2017, the industry-embedded project Circular Design Speeds takes a unique systemic approach, showcasing what could be accomplished using existing value chains as well as what the future of sustainable fashion holds. Ground-breaking textile research from University of the Arts London is questioning normative use and design of garments in creating prototypes to be worn across a spectrum of 24 hours to 50 years. By implementing research into existing value chains, Filippa K have produced a coat that is 100% recycled and recyclable, as well as a concept dress that is 100% bio-based and biodegradable. The research results and garments will be presented at the launch event at the University of the Arts London, on November 23rd and open to public on the 24th and 25th of November.

On Friday November 23rd the exhibition Disrupting Patterns: Designing for Circular Speeds opens up at University of the Arts London. The exhibition is the results of a two-year research project called Circular Design Speeds aiming at pushing the limits of ‘fast’ and ‘slow’ fashion by testing new concepts for sustainable design in an industry setting. On display are exploratory prototypes, as well as commercial garments produced by industry partner Filippa K using existing value chains. In addition, research results on innovative materials, consumer acceptance, composting studies and Life Cycle Assessments are presented. The aim of this project is to implement research results in a real fashion industry context, focusing on speed of use and maximising fabric value retention in products.

The Service Shirt developed by Professor Rebecca Earley is designed to last for over 50 years. The concept garment explores the multiple complexities, challenges and opportunities associated with design for circular business models in extended use contexts. The Service Shirt was designed as a ‘deliberate extreme’ to have a total lifecycle of 50 years. This lifecycle includes in-house and external remanufacturing processes, as well as various use cycles – often moving between single ownership and rental and sharing contexts. It becomes the lining for a jacket and then crafted in to fashion accessories, before finally being chemically regenerated in the year 2068.

On the opposite side of the spectrum the Fast-Forward concept, developed by Prof Kay Politowicz and Dr Kate Goldsworthy, explores alternative modes of production and use for a sustainable ‘fast-fashion’ application. Advantages with regards to climate impact are enabled through lighter material choices, nonwoven fabric production, no launder, clear routes to recovery and redistributed manufacturing systems. A sliding scale of ‘speed’ from ultra-fast forward through to a more widely accepted length of use, with adaptations to production processes and end of life, is presented. The prototypes are made from a new bio-based nonwoven material co-developed with Dr Hjalmar Granberg at RISE Research Institute of Sweden & University of the Arts London. The composition of the paper is a mix of cellulose pulp and bio-based PLA fibre, making the garment 100% biodegradable or recyclable in existing paper recycling systems.

Working closely with industry partner Filippa K made commercial testing possible. By implementing research into existing value chains, Filippa K was able to produce a coat that is 100% recycled and recyclable, as well as a concept dress that is 100% bio-based and biodegradable. The garments are a part of Filippa K’s Front Runner series and will be available in selected stores on November 26th. With a focus on products’ length of use and maximizing fabric value retention, Filippa K are dedicated to becoming fully circular by 2030.

“Being part of the fashion industry comes with many challenges, especially when considering the fact that we are the second most polluting industry after oil. Our industry needs to change and we believe adapting to circular models, like nature’s ecosystem, is one important solution. We want to be able to offer beautiful clothing and to make business within the planetary boundaries.”
- Elin Larsson, Sustainability Director, Filippa K

To validate the design research presented, a Life Cycle Assessment was performed on the prototypes. Mistra Future Fashion affiliated Dr. Greg Peters, Chalmers University of Technology, together with additional LCA Researchers at RISE, conclude that the production of fibres and fabrics are the main processes impacting the environment during the garment life cycles. Therefore, to extend the lifetime of existing garments and design for re-use, as done in the Service Shirt, is indeed the superior alternative compared to a reference garment.

“Compared with garments of the same mass, the extended life garments represent a large improvement in environmental performance over the reference garments, outperforming the reference garments in all effect categories. This superiority is primarily a consequence of avoiding garment production via reprinting and reassembly of the initial garment to extend its useful life.”
- Dr Greg Peters, LCA Researcher at Chalmers University of Technology

Another way to circumvent the impacts of fast fashion is to develop materials with considerably lower impacts during production, and which also avoid the barriers to recycling faced by conventional garments. Instead of hinder consumers from buying new, the act of acquiring a new garment could in fact be sustainable. The paper-based short life garments considered in this assessment show considerable impact savings when compare to the benchmark garment. Dr. Peters says,

“The paper-based garments benefit from the lower impacts of the material (fibre production, spinning and knitting) compared with conventional cotton, from their relatively light weight and also on account of the lower impacts in garment production and use.”

The annual meeting for the Asia-Pacific professionals of the composites industry, organized for the second time in a row in Seoul, has met its high expectations attracting +12% participants and acting as a major showcase for the composites industry in the region.

KEY FIGURES

• +230 companies
• 45 speakers
• +7,000 professional visits
• 49 countries represented
• 12 JEC Innovation Awards
• +450 Business meetings
• 3 Composites Tours
• Top 3 visitors’ countries: Korea - China - Japan

Gauging from the attendance of more than 7,000 professional visits from 49 countries, Eric PIERREJEAN, CEO of JEC Group, has already announced during the opening ceremony that JEC Asia 2019 will return next year on November 13, 14, 15, 2019. This ceremony was attended by industrialists, academics and officials, reflecting the huge interest that composite materials generates. Thus, at this ceremony we could notice the participation of Mr. BANG Yun Hyuk, President of KCTECH, Mr. Song, Ha Jin Jeonbuk Provincial Governor, Mr. HAN Byung Do, Senior secretary to the South Korean President for political affairs, Mr. CHOI Jin Hyuk, Director at MOTIE, Mr. KIM Yang Won, Vice Mayor of Jeonju, demonstrating the whole support of the Korean community; and Mr. Fabien PENONE, French Ambassador, was also present to underline the strong links and industrial interactions between Korea and France.

Hosting, this year again, the International Carbon Festival organized by KCTECH and the Jeonju region, JEC Asia also provided a comprehensive program dedicated to the Automotive professionals with a leadership circle attended by top stakeholders of the industry worldwide, top-notch conferences on automotive automated processes and composite applications for structural parts with speakers from Hyundai Motor Group, e-Xstream Engineering, L&L Products, Cobra International, Hanwha Advanced Materials, Daimler, Hankuk Carbon, Arkema, Cetim, Saertex & Co. KG to name a few.

“Aeronautics: 53% and beyond” conferences took place and attracted many attendees to discover new composites solutions and their wider use in this sector with Stratasys,IS Group, Cevotec… JEC Asia also offered its participants a chance to find out new business opportunities, highlighting the most relevant for the region and various application sectors.
All in all, the show floor was filled with innovations as JEC Asia 2018 showcased innovative parts and awarded 12 composites International champions among which 3 were about automotive, at the JEC Innovation Awards ceremony.

Also, to be noted at JEC Asia was the focus on networking with pre-arranged Business meetings that generated +450 qualified one-to-ones over the 3 days. Likewise, 3 composites tours opened exclusive doors to attendees when they visited Hanyang University, the composite architecture of the House of Dior, LG Hausys & Kolon and a day trip in Jeonju region and the Carbon Valley of the KCTECH.
For the first time, JEC Asia teamed up with MAI Carbon to offer a brand-new Student Program that keeps abreast of composite-industry needs to hire young, committed well-trained engineers. The two-part program included workshops with a focus on theoretical foundations and a guided tour through the JEC Asia trade show and the innovation planet.

More exhibitors than ever joined Yarn Expo Autumn 2018, which was held concurrently with ITMA ASIA + CITME from 15 – 17 October at the National Exhibition Convention Centre (Shanghai). 501 suppliers from 14 countries & regions participated, with new countries to the show including France. This international diversification, as well as strong domestic numbers, demonstrated Yarn Expo’s increasing recognition as a top show in the industry. What’s more, almost 80% of exhibitors were returning from successful past editions, showing their support of the fair.

“Although Yarn Expo was unable to be held concurrently with Intertextile Apparel this year, more industry players recognise this fair as a top show for yarn and this is why the turnout remained very strong,” explained Ms Wendy Wen, Senior General Manager of Messe Frankfurt (HK). “Our product range was more diverse than ever as exhibitors increasingly see China as the ideal market to introduce their latest innovations. For example, this year we’ve welcomed premium French linen and advanced Italian chemical fibres. Yarn Expo is a platform that promises to gather all of the top suppliers under one roof for genuine buyers.”

With demand rising within the Chinese market for fancy & specialty yarns, suitable for stand-out fashion trends, the trade potential for this product category was high. Business for eco-friendly and natural yarns was also reported to remain steady this edition, reflected by the India Pavilion which increased in size by around 40% this year.

• For the first time @Interfilière New York edition, the award winning Interfeel’Award Sustainability ILUNA Group with ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei
• Interfilière New York, 17th–18th October 2018, booth 113

In line with the powerful global trend towards smarter fashion solutions, Iluna Group launches its Embroidery Division. Specialists in lace since 1985, the new Embroidery Division offers a complete and innovative product match in line with the modern expectations of brands and retailers. Staying true to Iluna’s DNA, the introduction of emb roidery and guipure are all produced with only recycled materials.

In addition to the launch of the Embroidery Division, this season novelties include:

1. Since  September  2018,  Iluna  Group’s  products with the right percentage of transformed content are GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certified.

2. Of  major  interest  today,  the  launch  of eco - velvet lace  entirely made  of  sustainable  materials  including ROICA Eco - Smart™  Family, Tencel™ Lyocell and  Q - Nova® .

3. Within  the Black  Label  collection,  the  Ultralight series  is  enriched  with  new  multicolor geometric  and floral galloons and allovers: here Iluna changes the color of  the  thread  not  only  in  the background,  but  also  in  the design,  the  same  article  reinvents  itself  in a  variety  of great visual impact.

4. Green   Label   collection, the   Iluna   dedicated range featuring a new responsible approach in respect of the  planet  and  people, able  to deliver  innovation,  beauty and quality, at 360°. In addition to the all over, jacquard, double jacquard and mesh offer, the line is also featuring new stretch Galloon laces fully made with GRS certified recycled materials,  including  the  stretch  thanks  to the introduction of the  unique ROICA™ sustainable yarn part of the ROICA Eco - Smart™ Family.

5. ILUNA has  strategically  included  in  all  their  stretch  laces  only ROICA Eco- Smart™  Family of sustainable yarns since some time.

6. ILUNA can also boast its new STeP (Sustainable Textile Production) certification by Oeko-Tex, a certification  that  clarifies  and  communicates  the  company’s  sustainable  production  commitment. In
addition to this, all products are Oeko - Tex 100 certified.

7. ILUNA has  created  the  new e- shop offering  its  exclusive  materials  to  smaller companies   looking   for   added   values   as: creativity,   innovation,   made   in   Italy   and responsibility.

8. The  whole  collection  is  also  visible online at  its  web  site,  previous  registration, and   orders   can   be   done   directly   online always aiming to customers care.

Nevertheless, for ILUNA smart innovation is not   just   a   project even,   its   space at Interfilière will  be  the stage  where visitors will have  the  opportunity  to  discover the new  collection and to also  to experience and  touch latest boundaries  of  lace smart innovations.

Today ILUNA represents the largest European lace producer, and thanks to its journey toward the most contemporary  way  to  innovate  that  includes  responsibility,  has  also  become  a  reference  point  in  the
international market for a lace offer that is beautiful, innovative and responsible at the same time.  An  alchemy  of  design  and  sustainable  innovation, the  only  eco-fashion  line  that  includes  lace  and stockings,  capable  of  combining  ethics  and  high  quality  standards  with  a  fashion  image  of  bright  and deep colors.