From the Sector

• Kettelhack GmbH – a German leader in the dyeing and finishing of monochrome fabrics for high-quality and durable workwear and bed linen – has this year retired its existing Monforts sanforizing line after 35 years of daily service, replacing it with a new one.

The first line was installed in 1985 during a decisive time for the company.

Taking the helm in the early 1980s, Jan Kettelhack – the current CEO, owner and great grandson of Heinrich Kettelhack who founded the company back in 1874 – made a number of decisions that have secured its success over the following decades.

In 1982 Kettelhack had to vacate its existing plant in the city of Rheine due to urban development restrictions and despite a general sense of crisis in the European textile industry at that time, opted to relocate and build a new highly automated plant that was not reliant on mechanical and personnel-intensive processes. This was aligned with a greater focus on competitive international sales.

From 1986, the company’s proficiency as a specialist in solid-colour textiles led to workwear textiles becoming a bedrock of the business. Continuous investments in machinery and technical equipment have resulted in a fully integrated and rationalised single source site dedicated solely to what the company does best – the expert dyeing and finishing of textiles.

Crucial process steps

These stages in the textile value-added chain, Jan Kettelhack has observed, are crucial to the quality of a final product in workwear – whether it stands the test in everyday use, how comfortable it is, and how many washes it can withstand.

Central to this is the sanforizing process, which pre-shrinks a fabric by compressing it prior to washing. This limits any residual or further shrinkage in a made-up finished garment to less than 1%, to ensure perfect comfort and fit over an extended lifetime.

“We certainly can’t complain about the performance of the old Monfortex sanforizing line which gave us so many uninterrupted years of service, but certain spare parts for it were becoming increasingly hard to source, the control unit was becoming a little unstable and we couldn’t risk potential interruptions to our production schedule,” says Kettelhack plant manager Hendrik Pleimann. “In many ways, the new Monfortex sanforizer is much the same as the old one in terms of its mechanical reliability and robust construction, but of course today’s drives are much more efficient, and when it comes to the automation features and control units – and the data we can generate and analyse for increasing efficiency – that’s a whole new world.”

Qualitex 800

The two-metres-wide Monfortex line benefits from the latest Qualitex 800 control system which allows all parameters to be easily automated via the 24-inch colour touchscreen, including production speed, control of all fabric feed devices, rotation spray or steaming cylinder options, the width of the stretching field and the rubber belt pressure.

The integrated Compactomat system allows a continuous indication and control of the shrinkage values and the temperatures of the shrinking cylinder and felt calender. Up to 10,000 separate process parameter records can be generated and stored by the data manager.

Full line management can be optimised via the batch-specific calculation of all process material consumption and water and electricity use, with any standstill times analysed and immediately corrected for the future.

Any further assistance required is available via Monforts Teleservice, with direct connection to technicians and virtual access to machine analysis.

Professional

Commissioning of the new Monfortex line at Kettelhack commenced in January and it was fully operational in a relatively short time.

“This was a very professional installation provided by the Monforts team with whom we have a very good relationship dating back many years, and everyone knew what was required from both sides,” says Mr Pleimann. “Our operators have found the new line very user friendly and we are very pleased with how everything proceeded so smoothly. An unexpected benefit is that the new line is also a lot quieter, of course, which is something our operatives are appreciating.”

Key features of the Monfortex line are the proven fabric preparation, weft straightening and spreading units, prior to the compressive shrinkage machine with a 750mm shrinking cylinder, and a felt calender equipped with 2,000mm diameter drying cylinder. The line also features an integrated automatic grinding unit.

Customer service

Kettelhack is processing primarily cotton and polyester woven fabrics, with lyocell becoming increasingly popular in workwear for its softness and comfort.

As part of its customer service, the company stocks more than a million metres of grey fabric and at least 1.2 million metres of finished and rolled standard fabric in its warehouse at any one time, with a further 750,000 metres permanently in production.

While a significant cost, this commitment ensures Kettelhack customers can be fully flexible and rely on it as a partner.

“As a family-run company with around a hundred employees, Kettelhack operates very differently to bigger businesses which have to constantly consider their immediate quarterly profits,” Mr Pleimann concludes. “The thinking at Kettelhack is in terms of the next twenty years and ensuring that the business will be just as successful for the next generation as it is today. We also have a very flat organisational structure in which everyone is involved and takes an active part, which makes it a very nice place to work.”

JUST-IN-TIME IM NACHHALTIGEN TEXTILSERVICE-KREISLAUF

bardusch ist ein Familienunternehmen in bereits fünfter Generation – gegründet 1871. Zu Beginn waren es noch die Uniformen der preußischen Offiziere, heute bietet bardusch umfangreiche Textilservices für  Unternehmen unterschiedlicher Größenordnungen in nahezu allen Branchen – und das mit rund 2.600 Mitarbeitern von 21 strategisch in Ballungszentren gelegenen deutschen Standorten aus. Weitblick, Hersteller hochqualitativer Premium-Workwear aus Kleinostheim, liefert seit vielen Jahren hochwertige Textilien an bardusch und ist ein wichtiger Baustein für den nachhaltigen Textilkreislauf im Bereich Arbeitskleidung.

HOCHMODERNES TEXTILMANAGEMENT

Langjähriges, tiefes Know-how, schlanke Entscheidungswege und eine hohe Innovationskraft aus den eigenen Reihen sind die entscheidenden Faktoren, die bardusch zu einem der größten Logistiker der Textildienstleistungs-Branche machen. Prozesse sowie Technologien und die eingesetzten Maschinenparks werden permanent weiterentwickelt – um möglichst wirtschaftlich und umweltschonend zu agieren, aber vor allem, um Kunden noch flexiblere und individuellere Lösungen bieten zu können. So prägt bardusch das Textilmanagement von morgen.

Wolfram Rees, bei bardusch Geschäftsführer für die Bereiche Vertrieb und Marketing, erklärt: „Nichts ist näher an Ihrer Haut als Ihre Arbeitskleidung. Zertifizierte Hygiene und absolute Sauberkeit sind da schlichtweg Voraussetzung. Der Textilservice-Kreislauf sichert hier höchste Hygienestandards bei gleichzeitiger Schonung der Umwelt. Keine Haushalts-Waschmaschine kann ein vergleichbares Ergebnis liefern. Beispielsweise bei multiresistenten Keimen, höherem Verschmutzungsgrad oder auch Schutzfunktion der Kleidung weist unser Textilkreislauf die deutlich nachhaltigeren, absolut zuverlässigen – und am Ende auch kostengünstigeren - Ergebnisse auf.“

BEI bardusch WIRD GETEILT

Das Sharing-Prinzip beschränkt sich im Hause bardusch nicht nur auf das Kerngeschäft – die Textilien. Auch bei der unternehmerischen Ausrichtung ist das Prinzip „Teilen“ bzw. „Mieten statt Kaufen“ weit verbreitet und gelebte Philosophie. „Wir arbeiten deswegen kontinuierlich an optimierten Lösungen wie beispielsweise Car Sharing und Mietwagen-Lösungen für unsere Außendienstmitarbeiter, um an jedem Ort Fahrzeuge temporär nutzen zu können.“, so Rees. Die weiße Weste kann man bei bardusch in Punkto Nachhaltigkeit tatsächlich wörtlich und sprichwörtlich nehmen.

ARBEIT MIT HERZ UND RESPEKT

„In Weitblick haben wir einen Partner gefunden, der sehr ähnliche Werte und Normen wie wir in der Unternehmenskultur verankert hat. Die Loyalität und das Herzblut der Mitarbeiter sind dabei ganz entscheidende Faktoren für den Unternehmenserfolg. Nur wenn jeder Einzelne diese Werte im Unternehmen lebt, sind höchstes Qualitätsniveau, faire Bedingungen für alle Beteiligten und ein gleichzeitiger wirtschaftlicher Erfolg erreichbar. Das ist bei bardusch der Fall und das spüre ich auch bei Weitblick ganz deutlich“, ergänzt Rees. Aktuell investiert bardusch unter anderem in ein zukunftsorientiertes Touren- Planungssystem mit GPS-Ortung, permanenter Routenoptimierung und Geo-Fencing für seine 308 LKWs, um die Fahrstrecken und -zeiten zu opti-mieren. Aufgrund der täglichen Fahrtstrecke von 2,7-Mal um  die Erde ergibt sich hier ein großes Optimierungspotential durch eingesparte Kilometer und einen geringeren CO2-Ausstoß. So wird die eigene Logistik Stück für Stück grüner – und der Textilservice noch ein wenig nachhaltiger.

Textile innovator and specialty chemical producer Devan answers questions regarding anti-viral textile finish solutions following the growing spread of the COVID-19 outbreak.

Devan studied enveloped viruses (e.g. H1N1, Corona-types etc.) as well as naked viruses (e.g. Rotavirus). For both virus families BI-OME AV showed strong activity in wet state.
In the first instance, the company wants to focus on professionals who need to stay working such as policemen, logistics workers, shop employees, day-care workers.

A common complication of respiratory viral disease can be a secondary bacterial infection. Professionals could be helped with either an anti-bacterial on their facemask to reduce the chance for these secondary bacterial infections, for better hygiene and less odour build-up. On workwear, a combination of a virus spread reducing and antibacterial solution could help as these garments are typically used during long hours, are non-disposable and most likely will be washed at home.
 

The last frontier of innovation in racing suits made with yarns in Metamicro is the model Prime SP-16+, designed in collaboration with the Team McLaren Honda F.1

The spinning mill Filidea, joint venture between Marchi & Fildi spa and Abalıoğlu Holding A.Ş specialized in technical and high performance yarns with natural and synthtic fibers, is parter of Sparco, italian Company leader for the production of automotive components and technical apparels for the most important world Championships. The cooperation between the two Companies located in Piedmont, northern Italy, is focused on the supply of yarns with Metamicro in an exclusive composition, that are used for the production of the racing suits Sparco of the Premium range for Formula 1 and the World Rally Championship. The fire resistant yarn Metamicro based on aramidic fibers are a product of the latest generation, for their production it is necessary a special spinning line. The production is following the strict Sparco standards. Sparco controls all the production chain of racing suits, from Filidea, who has the competence to dye all the yarns with aramidic fibers in its own dyeing plant, to the woven fabric, produced and dyed in its own plant, to the woven fabric made by the italian Company TAT, till the production of garments. The process is always improved and tested.

Metamicro yarns are made by an high peformance spinning process. They are used for the production of fire resistant fabrics, that make a protection barrier for the body against flames and high temperature. The very fine micronage allows the production of very light fabrics with thick texture, the perfect base for light and comfortable suits. These features assure easier movements to the driver and the maximum protection from fire, keeping high breathability.

Filidea has invested on its production capacity of corespun yarns with XLANCE® technology, fiber used for the production of longlasting workwear apparel with an excellent fitting.

The spinning mill Filidea, joint venture between Marchi & Fildi spa and Abalıoğlu Holding A.Ş specialize in technical and high performance yarns with natural and synthtic fibers, is increasing its production of blends with XLANCE®.

XLANCE® is the innovative elastolefin fibe, elastic, chlorine and UV resistant. It finds application on workwear and outdoor clothing, with natural and comfort fitting. The comfort stretch feature follows the the body’s natural movement during the day-to-day work. Workwear clothing are so light, resistant and with a contemporary look. Resistance to abrasion and to frequent industrial laundry cycles with chemical products meet the needs of several professional sectors. XLANCE® is produced by ©Xlance srl, Company located in Varallo Pombia (province of Novara – Piedmont – Italy) that found in Filidea the perfect partner for the development of specific yarns, that are getting more and more requested. An innovation that is getting more important thanks to the cooperation of the two textile Companies located in Piedmont. Filidea has been producing XLANCE® yarns since 2009 and has now a great know-how. The Company to strengthens its leadership in technical yarns, for the main applications on protetictive garments, workwear, sportswear, racing and automotive. Filidea has developed and consolidated several partnerships for the creation of complete supply chains and the collaboration with ©Xlance is a perfect example.

DyStar®, the leading dyestuff and solution provider, for the first time will use the PERFORMANCE DAYS in Munich (May 8th & 9th) as a platform to showcase its innovative new products and processes, partly developed in collaboration with selected partners.
Located at Hall C6, Booth P08, show visitors will have a chance to participate in several workshops that allow direct interaction with the specialists from DyStar Group on environmental and technical solutions to improve efficiency and significantly reduce waste of valuable resources.

The workshop on the Cadira® Polyester module, for example, will highlight that reductions of 50% water usage and more than 40% of energy consumption are possible with optimized processing.

As a market leading supplier of high-quality water-based inks for digital printing, DyStar will present their renowned Jettex® reactive, acid, disperse and vat ink ranges that enable digital printers to achieve digital prints with high fastness levels, outstanding depth and sustainable processing results.

Being fully committed to sustainability, DyStar will leverage on the PERFORMANCE DAYS fair to reach out to more brands and retailers with similar goals for potential collaboration in the areas of color, color inspiration, communication and realization tools.

Two of the five workshops conducted per day will also highlight examples of successful collaborations that provided innovation and efficiency to the textile industry.

Experts from LENZING™ will present LENZING™ Lyocell, a sustainable cellulosic fiber that provides innovative solutions for workwear.

Additionally, Datacolor® will present the new ColorReader Pro, a new Ultra-Portable Color Measurement Tool for the textile and apparel industry.

DyStar cordially invites you to Performance Days Functional Fabrics Fair, where the latest trends in fabric development for the functional textile industry will be showcased.