From the Sector

International technology group ANDRITZ has received an order from Jasztex Fibers Inc., Canada, to supply a crosslapper to its site of Pointe Claire (Quebec province).
The line will be dedicated to the production of polyester blends for a wide range of applications, including home furnishing, filtration, blankets, architectural, fire retardant, transportation. Start-up is planned for the second quarter of 2023.

ANDRITZ has been a regular supplier of Jasztex. Over the last years, ANDRITZ provided crosslappers for previous investments in Toronto (Ontario) and Pointe Claire (Quebec).

Jasztex’s nonwoven products are sold throughout the bedding, furniture, filtration, acoustic and thermal insulation, transportation and medical markets.

Within the scope of the United Nations Economic Commission for Europe (UNECE) initiative “The Sustainability Pledge”, to improve transparency and traceability for sustainable garment and footwear supply chains, the Swiss company Haelixa traces Egyptian cotton from the source up to premium shirts.

The UNECE and United Nations Centre for Trade Facilitation and Electronic Business (UN/CEFACT) has been developing over the period 2019-2022 policy recommendations, implementation guidelines, a call to action, and a traceability toolbox including blockchain and DNA tracing solutions, which has been implemented in few different textile supply chains. Haelixa is part of the group of experts that develops such policy recommendations and conducts projects with key industry players to set traceability benchmarks and later develop them into standards.

Fashion brands are often responsible for complex global value chains and traceability is the needed tool to enable trust, transparency and credible sustainability. The magnitude of the supply chain traceability challenge can be overwhelming for brands, but the UNECE initiative framework facilitates the alignment with suppliers, provides the necessary guidance and the needed tools, with Haelixa as physical traceability provider.

To make the premium shirts traceable, Haelixa has developed a DNA marker to label the raw material, premium Egyptian cotton. The DNA marker has been applied as fine spray to GIZA 96 lint cotton in Borg Al Arab, Egypt and used to produce the finest fabric by Swiss manufacturer Weba. Once applied to the fibers, Haelixa’s DNA markers stay safely embedded into the material and withstand the industrial processing, ensuring traceability from the source until the finished garment. Samples of lint cotton, yarn, and fabric at different steps were verified with a test based on PCR, and the correct DNA marker was detected, thereby enabling the identification of the premium product, of its origin and the specific supply chain. The forensic data obtained were recorded on a blockchain system provided by UNECE. The marked fabric was used to make Hugo Boss cotton dress shirts. As one of the leading premium fashion brands and partner to the UNECE project, Hugo Boss is responsible for a complex global value chain and strives for high sustainability standards and is looking at traceability options.

“In cases like this one, where the material is of the highest quality and the product is shipped from one facility to another for premium processing, adding physical traceability is critical to ensure that the origin, quality and processing claims can be backed up" says Gediminas Mikutis, CTO and co-founder at Haelixa.

Maria Teresa Pisani, Economic Affairs Officer and Project Lead at UNECE, emphasized: “Traceability and transparency are crucial elements to protect environmental, social, and human rights along global value chains. At UNECE, we aim to enhance traceability approaches by exploring new and innovative solutions that help identify and address negative impacts in the fashion industry.”

• Partnership with green power producer Enery and Energie Steiermark realizes construction of a photovoltaic plant with 5.5 MWpeak capacity
• Strategic investments in renewables boost energy independence and reduce carbon footprint

The Lenzing Group has signed an electricity supply contract with green power producer Enery and Energie Steiermark to finance a photovoltaic plant in the Deutschlandsberg region (Styria). The electricity generated will supply the fiber and pulp plant at the Lenzing site after commissioning from the fourth quarter of 2023. The electricity supply contract is limited to 20 years.

The plant’s output will amount to 5.5 MWpeak. This corresponds to the average annual electricity demand of more than 1,700 households. Several photovoltaic systems are already being installed at the Lenzing site, including the largest ground-mounted plant in the province of Upper Austria, whose commissioning is imminent.

In 2019, Lenzing became the first fiber manufacturer to set a target to reduce its carbon emissions by 50 percent by 2030 and to be climate neutral by 2050. This carbon reduction target has been confirmed by the Science Based Targets Initiative. Lenzing is also currently investing in reducing carbon emissions at other sites worldwide. Only recently, the Lenzing Group announced that its Indonesian site will also be relying on green energy in the future.

Monforts will highlight its technologies for special technical textile applications at this year’s ITMA ASIA + CITME which takes place at the National Exhibition and Convention Center in Shanghai, China, from November 20-24.

One of Monforts' developments is the Montex 8500 XXL stenter system for the production of technical fabrics in widths of up to 6.8 metres. Among the products made on this system are treated nonwovens for the geotextiles and filter media markets, tarpaulins, advertising banners, black-out curtains, membranes and many more.

On Montex©Coat coating lines, meanwhile, the possibilities range from the single-sided application of finishing agents for outdoor clothing and adding functionality to home textiles, to the creation of materials for sophisticated lightweight construction and automotive and aerospace components.

“Many more applications are possible, such as the overdyeing of denim, the creation of double-face coated materials, fabrics awnings, tents and medical drapes and the pre-treatment of substrates for digital printing”, explains Gunnar Meyer, Monforts area sales manager for China. “A range of different doctor blades and their combinations can be supplied to meet individual requirements, including air knife, roller knife, foam, screen and magnetic roller coating. The latter option is recommended for lines with working widths of over 2.4 metres.”

In addition, Monforts can provide the necessary explosion-proof ranges for solvent-based coatings and high temperature processes up to 320°C, such as the PTFE coating of nonwoven filter material. These lines are equipped with special burners, stenter chains, and insulation.

India’s world famous Blue City, Jodhpur, has been repainted and refreshed by AkzoNobel as part of a major “Let’s Colour” project involving 250 homes.

More than 5,600 liters of Dulux paint has been used to revitalize the iconic area of Rajasthan, which is known the world over as a leading tourist destination. As well as painting exterior walls in a distinctive shade of vibrant blue, the roofs of more than 100 houses have been coated with Dulux Weathershield Protect, which can help to reduce temperatures by up to 5˚C.

In addition, 20 colorful murals have been created along the ancient streets leading up to Mehrangarh Fort, which towers over the city. All the work, which took around four months to complete, was carried out by AkzoNobel Paint Academy painters, local artists and residents, and AkzoNobel volunteers, who combined their creative talents.

The color blue has been an integral part of Jodhpur’s identity for centuries. And reigniting the city’s timeless appeal – making it more liveable and enjoyable – was key to the whole project. So in addition to painting more than 250,000 square feet of walls, community walkways and staircases have also been given a rainbow makeover using Dulux FloorPlus paint.   

AkzoNobel’s global “Let's Colour” initiative was launched in 2009. To date, more than 2,300 projects have taken place, with over 1.3 million liters of paint being donated all over the world.

For 2023, imm cologne is adapting its concept. The trade fair has been given a new schedule, which will see the international Interior Business Event host a new, one-off spring edition in 2023. The dates have been chosen in close consultation with its market partners.

“Today the imm cologne advisory board gave the concept proposed by Koelnmesse for the imm spring edition in June 2023 the green light unanimously. Our thanks go to the advisory board and in particular to the German industry, the retail sector and the purchasing associations for their support. This concept will ensure that imm cologne can take place again after a two-year break. The industry has given its backing to a strong interior design trade fair in Germany, the biggest market in Europe,” says Gerald Böse, Chief Executive Officer of Koelnmesse. “I firmly believe in face-to-face exchanges. In my view, they are immensely important for the industry’s development, especially in challenging times. The sector needs an in-person platform in Germany, an event with international appeal and a strong communication reach like imm cologne,” he adds.

imm cologne’s new story will take shape in two steps
The imm cologne team presented its vision for a new concept at the start of June 2022. The new story for imm cologne will unfold in two steps. The first step will be the imm spring edition from 4 to 7 June 2023. “The spring edition is synonymous with a new beginning. imm cologne wants to use it to motivate and to show how it is experimenting with new ideas and leaving well-trodden paths behind,” explains Oliver Frese, Chief Operating Officer of Koelnmesse. “What’s more, the event in June gives our partners planning certainty.”

Four-day with a trade audience focus
The cornerstones of the new concept are clear: The imm spring edition will take place over four days, running from Sunday to Wednesday, and will be geared towards trade visitors. End consumers will be able to visit the trade fair by invitation, giving the spring event a clear business focus. “It’s also our goal to create new participation formats in the market,” says Matthias Pollmann, Vice President Trade Fair Management at Koelnmesse. The kitchen segment will also be included in the imm 2023 spring edition. At the same time, the plan is to incorporate the city more closely into the spring edition as an event location.

Vision 2024+: imm cologne as the forum for future issues facing the industry
The second step will then follow in the summer of 2023. In close consultation with the industry and the associations involved in the event, the future dates for imm cologne and LivingKitchen will be set. The future vision for imm cologne conceives the interior event as more than just a key business platform. As a catalyst for the sector’s development, it addresses both industry and external issues of relevance to the imm cologne community.

In 2015, adidas Originals launched the NMD silhouette – taking cues from the brand’s inimitable archive in order to create a shoe that disrupted the sneaker world at the time. Six years later and the Trefoil has returned with an updated take on the original innovator, channeling the very same independent mindset to present the  NMD V3.

Built for a life in motion, the NMD V3 reimagines its own iconic heritage with a distinctly forward thinking vision. The silhouette features a re-engineered mesh that wraps around the foot, a transparent heel clip, and BOOST cushioning that’s partially encapsulated in a TPU shell. The NMD V3 also comprises an upper made with a high-performance yarn which contains at least 50% Parley Ocean Plastic – re-imagined plastic waste, intercepted on remote islands, beaches, coastal communities and shorelines – and 50% recycled polyester.

IFFAC (Impact Fund for African Creatives) has revealed plans which will revolutionise West African textile and garment production at one stroke. The fund is converting a partially disused textile mill in the region into a hi-tech centre for processing local cotton and recycling waste fabric, to produce both fabric for further processing and new clothes. The mill will be equipped with modern equipment, all sustainably powered by hydroelectricity from the nearby Volta Dam.

West Africa grows about 6% of the world’s cotton but only a tiny fraction of that crop is processed on the continent, the vast majority being shipped thousands of miles to Asia before being shipped back again as finished or part-finished fabrics. The mill project will end the continent’s reliance on such an unsustainable practice with all the obvious financial and environmental benefits.

As well as producing fabric from sustainably grown virgin cotton, a joint venture with Shandong-based WOL Textiles Ltd., a privately owned plant that has long supplied the African market, the mill will be home to a state-of-the-art shredding and recycling facility, a joint venture between IFFAC and the Dutch Circularity B.V. CEO Han Hamers of Circularity B.V. in The Netherlands, has been involved in the production of 100% circular knit and woven articles.

The mill project is expected to create over a thousand jobs. The surrounding area already boasts a significant number of experienced textile workers ready to be retrained on the new equipment. While the majority of the products created will be sold within the region, all processes will confirm to new EU Supply Chain Law to allow for the possibility of export.  

Output is forecast at six million pieces of finished clothing and twenty-five million metres of spun and woven cloth per year. In total, thirty million US$ of investment will be made in the site with operations ready to begin next year (2023).

• Sales increase of 10.7% to €549.8 million in the first half of 2022
• EBITDApre improves by 22.6%, higher than the increase in sales, to €87.9 million
• Positive business development, price increases and strict cost management led to forecast increase on June 7, 2022

Despite uncertain general conditions in the first six months 2022, SGL Carbon's business model is proving its resilience. After €270.9 million in Q1 2022, SGL Carbon was able to increase sales to €278.9 million in Q2. Accordingly, sales for the first half of 2022 amount to €549.8 million, which corresponds to a sales plus of €53.1 million or 10.7% compared to the same period of the previous year.

The increase in sales was driven in particular by customers in the semiconductor industry and growth in the industrial applications market segment. Demand from the automotive and chemical industries was also encouraging.

EBITDApre, as one of the Group's key performance indicators, improved by €16.2 million (+22.6%) to €87.9 million (H1 2021: €71.7 million). Consequently, the EBITDApre margin increased from 14.4% to 16.0%. In addition to the higher utilization of production capacities due to higher sales, the improvement in earnings was also driven by the largely successful passing-on of higher raw material and energy costs to customers as well as savings from the transformation program.

EBITDApre does not include positive one-off effects and non-recurring items totaling €10.6 million (H1 2021: minus €5.2 million). As a result, EBIT in H1 2022 increased significantly from €38.3 million to €69.6 million. Taking into account the financial result of minus €16.6 million (H1 2021: minus €14.0 million), consolidated net income for the first six months of the current fiscal year amounted to €48.8 million, compared to €17.9 million in the prior-year period.

Business Units
With an increase in sales of €22.2 million (+10.0%) to €243.4 million, the Graphite Solutions (GS) business unit made a major contribution to SGL Carbon’s sales growth. In particular, continued high demand from customers in the semiconductor sector, which represents approximately one third of the segment's sales, led to the positive business development in GS. As a result of the predominantly high-margin business, EBITDApre at GS improved by 22.7% to €54.0 million.

The Process Technology (PT) business unit benefited from the good order situation in the chemical industry in H1 2022 and consequently increased sales to €49.2 million (H1 2021: € 40.8 million). EBITDApre also improved from €0.1 million in the prior year’s first half to €4.1 million in H1 2022.

The Carbon Fibers (CF) business unit benefited in the 1st half 2022 from final deliveries to a major automotive manufacturer whose contract expired as scheduled on June 30, 2022. Segment sales increased by 5.8% year-on-year to €176.0 million. In contrast, EBITDApre at CF decreased by €4.2 million to €28.2 million despite the good order situation and successful price increases. It should be noted that CF was impacted by a special effect from energy derivatives for price hedging in the amount of €9.2 million in the first quarter of 2022.

With an increase in sales of 15.6% to €69.6 million, the Composite Solutions (CS) business unit continued its upward trend. The specialist for customized component solutions for the automotive industry improved its EBITDApre from €5.7 million in the first half of 2021 to the current €9.7 million, based in particular on price and volume effects.

Balance sheet figures
Working capital rose by 11.7% to €381.1 million as of June 30, 2022. This was mainly due to higher inventories (€ +73.9 million) and an offsetting increase in trade payables (€ +29.0 million). A targeted build-up of inventories in critical raw materials due to disruptions in transport routes and the recent Covid lockdown in Shanghai were some of the reasons for the higher inventory levels.

SGL Carbon's net financial debt slightly increased by €6.6 million to €212.9 million as of June 30, 2022 (Dec. 31, 2021: €206.3 million), which was due to a lower free cash flow of €7.5 million for H1 2022 (H1 2021: €56.6 million).

Guidance increase
On June 7, 2022, SGL Carbon raised its sales and earnings guidance for fiscal year 2022. The company now expects sales of €1.1 billion (previously: around €1.0 billion) and EBITDApre of €130 - 150 million (previously: €110 - 130 million). Based on the pleasing business development, realized price increases, a stringent cost management, and taking into account the currently known risks, SGL’s management expects to achieve the earnings forecast for 2022 at the upper end of the stated range.

The FACHPACK in Nuremberg ranks among the most important packaging industry gatherings. From 27 to 29 September 2022, Sappi will be presenting its latest products and solutions for functional paper packaging, flexible packaging papers, label papers, containerboard and paperboard. The company is focusing its efforts on sustainable, recyclable and innovative solutions.

• Wide range of barrier papers in the market for sustainable and recyclable packaging solutions
• High-impact brand presence in corrugated board packaging thanks to Fusion Nature Plus in combination with Fusion Topliner
• Parade Label Pro wet-glue label paper for an efficient operation and an excellent visual impression

Wide range of barrier papers
Sappi’s ultimate goal as a specialist in barrier papers is to replace non-recyclable aluminium and plastic multi-layer laminates through the introduction of truly sustainable alternatives that meet all market requirements in terms of performance and recycling. Sappi is continuously expanding its portfolio of barrier papers. At the show, Sappi will be showcasing several examples of food and non-food applications using these barrier papers.

A smooth surface and a high degree of whiteness: Parade Label Pro
Sappi will also be presenting its new, non-wet-strength wet-glue label paper Parade Label Pro – featuring samples from all over the world. This glossy, double-coated quality paper offers a smooth surface plus a high degree of whiteness. It’s suitable for numerous label and flexible packaging applications, such as labels for disposable bottles, food and non-food containers as well as wrappers for a variety of products. It can be printed in offset, flexo and gravure, and finished with hot foil and blind embossing, for example.

Brand presentation that appeals to the senses
“For manufacturers of branded goods, it is becoming increasingly important to convey brand values and product characteristics in a way that is emotionally appealing and that really sets the stage,” explains Luis Mata, Sales Director Packaging of Sappi Europe. At the FACHPACK, Sappi will also be presenting its containerboard products for corrugated board applications, which, with their brilliant colour reproduction, enhance on-shelf product impact and ensure real brand differentiation.

Sappi’s popular Algro Design paperboard portfolio also allows the design scope and leeway to communicate brand values in an emotionally appealing way.