From the Sector

Outdoor apparel company Patagonia and circular fashion and textile technology group Infinited Fiber Company have signed a multiyear sales agreement for Infinited Fiber Company’s unique, premium-quality regenerated textile fiber Infinna™, which is created out of textile waste. The move marks a major milestone for both companies towards making textile circularity an everyday reality: The deal guarantees Patagonia access to the limited-supply fiber over the coming years and secures future sales income for Infinited Fiber Company as it ramps up production.

Infinna is a unique, virgin-quality regenerated textile fiber with the soft and natural look and feel of cotton. It is created from cotton-rich textile waste that is broken down at the molecular level and reborn as new fibers. Because it’s made of cellulose – a building block of all plants – Infinna is biodegradable and contains no microplastics to clog our seas. Clothes made with it can be recycled again in the same process together with other textile waste.

In April, Infinited Fiber Company announced plans to build a flagship factory in Finland to meet the growing demand for Infinna from global fashion brands. It is currently supplying customers from its R&D and pilot facilities in Espoo and Valkeakoski, Finland. The planned flagship factory will have an annual production capacity of 30,000 metric tons, which is enough fiber for roughly 100 million T-shirts made with 100% Infinna. Infinited Fiber Company expects to have sold the new factory’s entire output for several years during 2021.

More than 92 million metric tons of textile waste is produced globally every year and most of this ends up in landfills or incinerators. At the same time, textile fiber demand is increasing, with Textile Exchange estimating the global textile fiber market to grow 30% to 146 million metric tons by 2030 from 111 million metric tons in 2019. Infinited Fiber Company’s fiber regeneration technology, which uses cellulose-rich waste streams as its raw material, offers a solution both to stop waste from being wasted and to reduce the burden of the textile industry on the planet’s limited natural resources.

• Miles Johnson and ISKO’s Creative Room present the new responsible collection.

The second edition of this partnership tells the story of a unique combination of creativity and expertise brought to the table by ISKO’s style and design center, Creative Room Italy, and the innovative designer Miles Johnson, resulting in a collection featuring responsible R-TWO™ fabrics and a selection of sustainable accessories and details.

An act of care for the planet and its people, Light on the Land 2.0 is the new capsule designed by Miles Johnson and ISKO. Former Design Director at Levi Strauss & Co. and Senior Creative Director of Product Design and Development at Patagonia, Inc., Miles joined forces with Creative Room and Iskoteca, ISKO’s Italian style and washing research hubs, to develop a collection that brings responsibility in the fashion industry to the next level.

The project includes 32 unique pieces, each of them realized with seasonless designs and sustainably-minded details. All the fabrics used in the collection were carefully selected from ISKO’s R-TWO™ platform. Using a mixture of reused cotton and recycled fibers, the technique embeds material circularity into the production processes, designing waste out of the system and minimizing impact at scale. Certified to Textile Exchange environmental credentials according to the percentage of materials contained, R-TWO™ ensures better use of raw materials and resource efficiency. ISKO’s Environmental Product Declarations (EPD®s), available for all its +25,000 products, offer a unique opportunity to measure the impact of R-TWO™’s savings in the Lifecycle Assessments (LCAs) framework, where resource savings can be seen in carbon impact, water-use reductions and many other impact KPIs.

Light on the Land 2.0 incorporates responsible design principles such as Cadica’s new and innovative trims, made of vegan apple “leather”, and has been developed using ecoconscious finishing techniques. The collection also features many additional sustainable facets such as efficient low-waste pattern cutting and design, efficient sewing methods, removeable rivets for end-of-life and biodegradable thread which can be removed at high heats.

“When we first started working on this project, we knew it was going to be amazing,” explained Massimo Munari, Manager and Art director Creative Room, ISKO. “To design a collection like this, you need to begin with the right mindset and of course, the right materials. R-TWO was the perfect ingredient, thanks to the re-used and re-cycled content. We then aimed to minimize impact at all stages: incorporating sustainable design ideas, washing processes and trims. We are proud to have created such an inspiring, and sustainable collection, and to bring our collective vision to light.”

Due to the unprecedented challenges of this time, the collection was entirely developed through remote working and creative solutions to ensure the safety and health of all parties involved. To this end, everyone was kept safe thanks to ISKO Vital™+ reusable and eco-friendly face covers, created with organic cotton to cater for comfort and sustainability.

• Lakmé Fashion Week 2020
• Bemberg™ fibers empower “Tattva”
• Hemang Agrawal's new craft-tech collection

Smart tech fibers, contemporary style and heritage. Past, present and future are intertwined in the new ‘Tattva’ collection by famous Indian designer Hemang Agrawal who has teamed up with Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei, the Japanese yarn manufacturer leading in both high-performative innovation and sustainability. The collection comprises textiles entirely conceived and created by the designer. A new chapter for Bemberg™ glamorous uniqueness for high-end fashion, first Japanese reality that participated at Lakmé Fashion Week 2020, the biggest fashion event in India.

Made from the smart-tech transformation of cotton linters pre-consumer materials and converted through a traceable and transparent closed loop process, Bemberg™ fibers add responsible values to the collection, matching perfectly the vision and the ethic of Hemang Agrawal, a designer with more than one eye on sustainability, innovation and deep knowledge and respect for traditional Indian crafts and culture.

Tattva debuted at the Lakmé Fashion Week 2020 and comprises 40 exquisite pieces for men and women, all inspired by the 12 Tattva – the natural elements bringing harmony in the universe, according to the Indian scriptures and tradition. Motifs representing these elements, including quirky versions of moon-phases, tigers, human mind & DaVinci’s Vitruvian man were woven into the glittering fabrics. The collection was crafted harnessing the skills of Indian handlooms artisans in the designer’s hometown Benares (Varanasi).

Tattva featured Bemberg™ brocades as the predominant textile, along with plain Bemberg™ fabrics and a few blends. The result is a magnificent touch, fabrics are distinctively smooth like silk, second skin-like, shining, and bright. On top of that, Bemberg™ yarns add a new dimension in terms of sustainability and comfort by boosting antistatic and breathable performances, amazing precious touch while being also biodegradable and compostable.

“We are so happy that we participated in LFW and collaborated with Hemang Agrawal.” Says Mr. Hideto Tanimoto, General Manager, Bemberg™ Sales and Marketing Department. “The collection has come out really wonderful and has brought out the properties of Bemberg yarn such as noble sheen, smooth and soft touch, bright colour, supple drape amazingly. I strongly believe that the collection made significant impact on the sustainable fashion scene in India. We are expecting that the collection will be successful commercially and will help the local craftsman from Varanasi.”

The collection blends crafts and technology, Indian tradition and Japanese innovation, sustainability and high-end style. Designer Hemang Agrawal says, “The dexterity which the weavers in Benares have acquired, finds few parallels in the world. Although predominantly a silk-weaving centre, many master-weavers in the city are highly skilful in handling different yarn types. Japan, on the other hand, is well-known for its advanced technologies as well as its approach towards environment and sustainability as a country. Both these facts are well-reflected in the Bemberg™ Yarn”

“During our R&D, we found that the yarn, which is available in various counts and deniers is highly adaptable. The lustre, hand-feel, strength and colour depth are very well-suited for premium textiles, which come out of our looms. For the collection ‘Tattva,’ our endeavour has been to merge the skill-set of Benares weavers with qualities of the Bemberg™ yarn, to create textiles and apparel, which transcend the boundaries of what is termed as traditional Benarasi."

With the Tattva collection Hemang Agrawal and Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei show a new way of making fashion: merging craft & tech, cutting-edge materials and deeply rooted traditions. A stunning collection marking the rise of craft-tech, a trend going beyond the dichotomy of ancient and new, injecting the human-based into the high-tech and a futuristic imprint into heritage. Like the 12 Tattva, a new harmony takes shape, intertwined into exquisitely stylish garments.

• The stunning niLuu collection by former professional volleyball player Nilufer Bracco features smart Bemberg™ fabrics by Ipeker
• Wonderful kimonos for women and men, sleep and face masks are the key pieces of the PETA certified and cruelty-free collection, 100% Bemberg™ and vegan

Former professional volleyball player Nilufer Bracco recently launched niLuu, a PETA approved cruelty-free loungewear brand using 100% Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei that combines the iconic elegance of traditional silk with a socially and environmentally ethical production process.

Bemberg™ is a fiber made from the smart-tech transformation of cotton linters bio-utility materials that are converted through a traceable and transparent closed loop process; the Bemberg™ Ipeker Textile  fabric’s uniqueness comes from the exceptional quality characteristics achieved in design. The end result is a luxurious fabric so soft and smooth that it is almost like a second skin, breathes like cotton, drapes beautifully like silk, and reflects the cultural tradition of luxury textiles from founder Nilufer Bracco’s native country, Turkey. The first collection released by Miami based niLuu features premium quality kimono robes, sleep masks, face masks, and pillowcases that are available in a variety of deep and vibrant colors, and with a soft-brushed finish typical of premium sand-washed silk.

Designed to not only feel and look amazing but the entire niLuu collection is sustainable, biodegradable and 100% vegan.  Ipeker Textile, one of the major Bemberg™ fabric producers in Europe, proudly holds the title as the first vegan fabric producer in the world, receiving Vegan V-Label certificate on around 150 different products that adhere to the guidelines of the European Vegetarian Label, most of them developed with Bemberg™ yarn.

niLuu’s innovative Bemberg™ collection is hypoallergenic, antistatic, easy to care for, and it is also known to have several benefits for the skin. The breathability of the fabric helps to maintain body temperature; excellent moisture control means the fabric doesn’t dry out the skin or hair in the ways that cotton would and minimal friction against the skin means it is also known to have anti-aging benefits.  Speaking of niLuu’s high-quality Bemberg™ fabric, Founder, Nilufer Bracco adds, “Our innovative Bemberg™ vegan silk delivers the best of both worlds. Not only does our luxury fabric feel amazing when you use it, but you can also feel good knowing that it caused minimum harm to the planet when it was produced and that it will leave only the slightest trace when it reaches the end of its lifecycle.”

The luxury textiles brand has also shown its commitment to responsible practices, by partnering with 1% for the Planet pledging to donate 1% of their annual revenue to environmental organizations that work hard to protect our planet.

• World Cotton Day on 7 October Highlights the Importance of Cotton for Development Policy

Bremen - Stemming from a 2019 initiative of the African Cotton-4 countries Benin, Burkina Faso, Chad and Mali, World Cotton Day will take place this year on 7 October. The event is organised by the Geneva-based World Trade Organisation (WTO) and is supported by the Food and Agriculture Organisation of the United Nations (FAO), the United Nations Conference on Trade and Development (UNCTAD), the International Trade Centre (ITC) and the International Cotton Secretariat (ICAC). The Bremen Cotton Exchange is also involved.

“Cotton is often underestimated because it is so natural. Behind it are millions of people, for example many farmers, field workers, employees in ginning factories, logistics providers and traders. We want to honour their achievements,” said the President of the Bremen Cotton Exchange, Stephanie Silber.

According to the WTO, the aim of World Cotton Day is to highlight the global economic importance of cotton and to raise awareness of the raw material by recognising the work of everyone involved in its cultivation, processing and trade. At the same time, within the framework of international cooperation, it is hoped that supporters and investors can be found to aid with technological and economic progress within the cotton value chain.

This time, the entire world cotton community will be involved in World Cotton Day on Wednesday, 7 October 2020. A wide variety of campaigns and events are taking place everywhere to draw attention to the importance of cotton and its possible uses.

Cotton is one of the most relevant agricultural raw materials in the world. Around 26 million tonnes of it are harvested annually. Approximately 150 million people in almost 80 countries around the world live from the cultivation of the natural fibre. A large number of these live in developing countries, where cotton cultivation is of particular importance as a cash crop.

Cotton is known as an agricultural product that is turned into a textile. The raw material is indispensable in fashion and clothing – and has been for thousands of years. But the use of cotton now goes far beyond textiles. For example, cosmetic products such as hand creams and hair shampoo are made from the oil of cotton seeds. The raw material is also used in the manufacture of banknotes, furniture and technical textiles, as well as in medical technology.

Against the background of the current discussion on sustainability and sustainable consumption, the role of natural fibres is becoming even more important. Cotton is biodegradable and a renewable resource. It can be grown again and again in agriculture through cultivation in crop rotation. This secures incomes and enables efficient value creation within the global production and processing chain.

The Bremen Cotton Exchange will actively support World Cotton Day with cross-media coverage. In addition, in time for World Cotton Day, three thematically different, emotionally appealing short films about cotton will be launched. They are aimed at consumers as customers of the textile and clothing trade and provide information about the benefits and properties of cotton and answer questions about its sustainability. In keeping with the times, they will be published via virtual media.

• When it comes to smart fashion the uniqueness of Bemberg™ is crucial for every style

MURREN, the 100% made of Bemberg™ chemisier dress by ECOALF

Long sleeves, straight-cut with a shirt neck, buttons on the front and adjustable waist, the Murren dress by ECOALF is made from 100% of Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei, made from the smart-tech transformation of pre-consumer material, cotton linter and in a closed loop system, converted through a traceable and transparent closed loop process  and is also biodegradable. The dress falls beautifully, thanks to the fabric it is made of.  As well as being sustainable, its silky soft to the touch, one of the main exceptional characteristics of Bemberg™. This casual dress is a ready-to-wear solution for every occasion being a classical must have of the woman wardrobe. Its breathable performance enhances and underlines Bemberg™ versatility of use.  

The Zurs Cargo pants by Ecoalf, 100% made of Bemberg™ 

Relaxed fit and lazy mood for the Zurs cargo trousers, with pockets and elastic in the hem. Also this style is 100% Bemberg™ and it is another demonstration of this material capability of being perfect for every occasion, as for this sporty outfit. Like every jogging pant has to be, it’s cool, gives superior comfort, and it’s breathable thanks to the incredible characteristics of the materials: controlling moisture, that keeps the body fresh and comfortable, and elasticity for freedom of movement.

• Bemberg™ presents a great deal of novelties with a true key-statement for sustainability: Let’s Make it Circular!
• The lifespan of Bemberg™’s regenerated cellulose fiber Cupro derived from cotton is fully circular: from the source to manufacturing.

“Sustainability is the founding pillar of our company,” says SHUNSUKE SATO, sales manager of Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei. “Indeed, the smart fiber is made from a cotton linter which is pre-consumer material, a natural derived source, that doesn’t deplete forestry resources”.

In Bemberg™’s production the whole sustainable closed-loop process is supported by the LCA study, signed by ICEA (Istituto per la Certificazione Etica e Ambientale) and validated by President of Ecoinnovazione Paolo Masoni ex Research Director of ENEA (Ente per le Nuove tecnologie, l’Energia e l’Ambiente).

While recyclability is granted by the Global Recycle Standard - GRS certification by the renown Textile Exchange (an influential guarantee that involves the whole production process and supply chain behind the company’s smart yarns), Bemberg™ yarns are also entirely biodegradable and ecotoxicity-free - meaning that at the end of their life circle they break down into the environment leaving no trace in terms of toxic substances as attested by the Innovhub-SSI report.

A special focus deserves Velutine™ Evo, the new fibrillation finishing technology for Bemberg™ fabrics only that guarantees another level of sustainable benefits without sacrificing the Bemberg™ amazing and unique touch. As part of the company’s continuous innovation, Velutine™ Evo brings better environmental, energy and water profiles for the benefit of Bemberg™ partners in the manufacture of their ranges.
The sustainable achievements of the new finishing technology have been measured by LCA - Life Cycle Assessment study by ICEA and proved to guarantee environmental benefits such as -16.5% of greenhouses gas emissions and -21% of overall consumption of energy resources. On top of that Velutine™ Evo means also -20.5% of electricity savings, -15.9% of steam production and -19.5% of water consumption.

The first Bemberg™ partner to present a commercial collection enriched by Velutine™ Evo is the Portuguese Matias & Araújo. With an innovative spirit, dynamism and a determined entrepreneurial spirit, the company is a leading knitwear producer for the textile industry.

Bemberg™ collaborated also with the premium brand CAALO that is making its mark in the outerwear market with its Sustainably produced Functional-Luxury proposal. For SS20, CAALO uses Bemberg™ lining because of the sustainability properties and it’s unique colour.

CAALO uses as much eco-friendly and sustainable materials as possible without compromising on design or quality. This Bemberg™ lining was a perfect fit. This versatile blazer features a removable hood, hidden welt pockets, button closure, and removable cargo pockets.

Bemberg™ gears up for Première Vision - February 11th-13th, Paris, France; with a great deal of novelties and a key statement on sustainability: Let’s Make it Circular! That’s why the Japanese brand of regenerated cellulose fibers joins the fair with two booths, one in the yarn-focused sector – Hall 6 C52 6D53 – the other one in the Smart Creation area, the curated district showcasing cutting-edge sustainable innovation for the textile and fashion business. Hall3 S14.

“We simply could not miss out on the Smart Creation Area as sustainability is the founding pillar of our company,” says SHUNSUKE SATO, sales manager of Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei. “Indeed, the smart fiber is made from a cotton linter which is pre-consumer material, a natural derived source, that doesn’t deplete forestry resources. The strategy beyond our double presence is to highlight our deep commitment to responsible innovation to a larger target of professionals.”

Let’s take it circular! is the motto at the Smart Creation booth. The lifespan of Bemberg™’s regenerated cellulose fiber derived from cotton is fully circular: from the source to manufacturing. The whole sustainable closed-loop process is supported by the LCA study, signed by ICEA and validated by Paolo Masoni. Recyclability is granted by the Global Recycle Standard - GRS certification by the renown Textile Exchange. An influential guarantee that involves the whole production process and supply chain behind the company’s smart yarns. Bemberg™ yarns are entirely biodegradable and ecotoxicity-free – meaning that at the end of their life circle they break down into the environment leaving no trace in terms of toxic substances as attested by the Innovhub-SSI report.

On show at Première Vision some of the most recent collaborations with GRS-certified partners such as FIVEOL, SMI TESSUTI, TESSITURA UBOLDI, INFINITY, SIDONIOS, MATIAS & ARAUJO, TINTEX, IPEKER, EKOTEN, for fashion fabrics as well as PEZZETTI and BRUNELLO & G.CRESPI from lining partners.

The first Bemberg™ partner to present a commercial collection enriched by Velutine™ Evo is the Portuguese Matias & Araújo. With an innovative spirit, dynamism and a determined entrepreneurial spirit, the company is a leading knitwear producer for the textile industry.

In the Hall 6 Bemberg™ displays key commercial items developed by premium brands such as CAALO that is making its mark in the outerwear market with its Sustainably produced Functional-Luxury proposal. For SS20, CAALO utilized Bemberg™ lining because of the sustainability properties and it's unique colour.

CAALO looks to utilize as much eco-friendly and sustainable materials as possible without compromising on design or quality. This Bemberg™ lining was a perfect fit.

Schoeller, the global textile solutions manufacturer dedicated to sustainability and innovation for more than 150 years, introduces its new PROEARTH™ collection of biodegradable textiles. The new collection, comprised of bluesign® approved fabrics with biodegradable polyester, will debut as part of its Schoeller FTC (SFTC) line, a joint venture between Schoeller Textil AG and the Taiwanese Formosa Taffeta Co. Ltd., at Premiere Vision Paris, September 17-19, Hall 6, Stand 6J18.

As the founding developer of the bluesign® system, the first activewear and leisurewear manufacturer to receive Oeko-Tex Standard 100 certification, and one of the first companies to sign the UN’s Paris Agreement for climate change, Schoeller continues to be on the cutting edge of sustainable practices, bringing one of the first collections of biodegradable synthetic fabrics to the market. Its most recent development, PROEARTH was created to help offset the more than 16 million tons of textile waste produced in the US alone each year.

Jacket, pant and lining fabrics
The SFTC PROEARTH collection will launch with five, bluesign®-approved fabrics designed for lifestyle, fashion and outdoor categories. Made with virgin polyester that has been optimized for biodegradation and has tested to biodegrade at faster and better rates than competitive offerings, the initial PROEARTH articles available this fall include jacket, pant and lining material qualities with various colour options.

• At Kingpins Show Amsterdam (24-25 October) the new “Committed Accessories” dedicated to denim take centre stage.

For the appointment with the exhibition dedicated to denim Metalbottoni focuses on its new range of increasingly green accessories which have captured the attention of the northern European brands most attentive to sustainability in the world of jeans and elsewhere. A range of proposals which, in recent months, has progressed remarkably, following the rules established by the corporate responsibility protocol called NO IMPACT.

This is a responsible approach underlined by the promise “Committed Accessories”, but also a strategic choice with a view to approaching those markets which so far have appeared to be most keen on the subject, for example northern Europe, Benelux and the United States, California in particular. This means that Metalbottoni is acting with increasing assertiveness on those scenarios where it has been present for a long time, in order to increase the segments depth, intercepting new ones, thanks to its wide-ranging eco-compatible proposal.

NO IMPACT: “Committed Accessories” expanded

It is the constant search for sustainable innovation that reveals the extent of the progress made over the past few months by Metalbottoni. For the Kingpins Show exhibition, there are many novelties in store from the company, extending its range in terms of sustainability. Firstly, there is the new MONSTER line eco-processing, special for pure denim, which – apart from metal – includes new material solutions developed through high-profile collaborations.

Also the LEATHER ACCESSORIES line is extending its range of sustainable materials. The line of tags and rear waistband labels is enhanced through interpretations based on two new eco-friendly materials: recycled jacron and cork. For denim designed to be 100% green, also in accessories. Sustainable proposals are increasingly integrated throughout the Metalbottoni range, for example the new glossy and satin finishing developed for the line LABORA on exclusive metal accessories.

Partnerships with brands from northern Europe: Bik Bok and Kings of Indigo

One of the most important collaboration in sustainable fashion is the one with the Norwegian brand Bik Bok. The brand that was founded in 1973 dedicated to young women, today offer accessible trend driven fashion through a network of over 200 single-brand stores in Norway, Sweden, Finland and Austria. The brand has since 2017 chosen to use only BCI (Better Cotton Initiative) certified cotton for their in house premium denim brand Never Denim. For Never Denim Metalbottoni has realized a series of jeans buttons and personalized rivets, all entirely produced according to the NO IMPACT protocol; which means recycled raw materials, no use of chemical agents, through processing and machinery that minimize the use of water and electricity, resulting 100% from photovoltaic panels. All these features are part of a capsule developed for the new AW 2018 collection for Never Denim entirely made with Fair Trade certified cotton. Thanks to this project, the No Impact becomes an integral part of a collection that is aimed at a very large, young and aware public.

Another important brand which has chosen the new NO IMPACT metal accessories is Kings Of Indigo, the Dutch denim mill which is presenting top-quality jeans, inspired by traditional American style, combined with Japanese attention to detail, which today has as many 250 authorised dealers in 12 countries, with a very strong focus on northern Europe.

More and more sportswear for the new Monster SS 2020 collection

The great Metalbottoni classic dedicated to denim confirms the trend of strongly merging with the world of sportswear. The MONSTER line introduces the style developments of the SS 2020 season, with the range being more and more influenced by technical and sports interpretations, alongside sustainable production processes based on the NO IMPACT protocol. The new MONSTER proposals include items made of non-metal material, using sustainable processes, of natural origin and 100% biodegradable; these accessories are similar in appearance to traditional polyester, interpreted in a responsible way, developed through a series of special and unique effects. Also the button, rivet and small plate range has been restyled, having always been the core of the MONSTER line. Today the number of solutions available increases  hanks to new vintage finishing, developed on metal accessories, which are also totally green. “The denim world is moving in a clear direction: that of sustainability.” says Maria Teresa Ricciardo, Creative Director at Metalbottoni, “This is true in particular for some markets, which are strategic for us, and where we are proving increasingly successful, thanks to constant product and process research from a green  perspective, which Metalbottoni today is able to offer within the framework of the NO IMPACT pathway which we have been pursuing for a long time”.