From the Sector

In a roundtable discussion during the recent Innovate Textiles & Apparel (ITA) textile machinery exhibition, imogo Founding Partner Per Stenflo and representatives from a number of like-minded European companies discussed the opportunities for new spray application technologies for the dyeing and finishing sector.

These technologies can achieve tremendous savings for manufacturers compared to traditional water-intensive processes it was explained at the event, held online from October 15-30th.

Pioneer
imogo – one of the latest companies to join TMAS, the Swedish Textile Machinery Association – is one of the key pioneers in this area with its Dye-Max system. Dye-Max spray dyeing technology can slash the use of fresh water, wastewater, energy and chemicals by as much as 90% compared to conventional jet dyeing systems. This is due to the extremely low liquor ratio of 0.3-0.8 litres per kilo of fabric and at the same time, considerably fewer auxiliary chemicals are required to start with.

Obstacles
Such technologies, however, face a number of obstacles to adoption and during the ITA discussion it was agreed that 2020 has not provided the ideal climate for adventurous investors. “The textile industry is quite conservative and is definitely in survival mode at the moment and it is not the time to be a visionary,” said Stenflo. “Day to day business is about staying alive – that’s the reality for many of our customers.” Nevertheless, all of the panellists agreed that sustainable production will remain top of the agenda for the textile industry in the longer term and spray technologies for dyeing and finishing processes will be a part of it.

“Any investment in something new is a risk of course, and we have to be able to explain and convince manufacturers that there’s a good return on investment, not only in respect of sustainability, but in terms of making good business sense,” said Stenflo. “Here we could use the help of the brands of course, in putting pressure on their suppliers to be more sustainable. Governments also have a role to play, in providing incentives for producers to move in the sustainable direction. Sustainability alone will never cut it, there has to be a business case, or it won’t happen.”

Marketing
The marketing of sustainable new fibers is comparatively easy for the brands compared to explaining the difficult textile processes and the chemistries involved in fabric and garment production, he added.

“These fibers, however, currently go through all the same dirty processes that we need to get away from, so it must happen,” he said. “In developing our technologies, it has been important for us to avoid disrupting existing supply chains, stick with using off-the-shelf chemistries and dyes, and involve the dye manufacturers who are an essential part in how operations are driven today. “In fact, collaboration across the entire textile supply chain – from the brands right back to the new technology developers – is essential in moving the sustainability agenda forward.

Business models
“We are also looking into new business models in terms of how to reduce or lower the thresholds for investment and minimise the risk for the manufacturers who are looking to be the innovators,” he concluded. Also taking part in the ITA roundtable discussion were Simon Kew (Alchemie Technology, UK), Christian Schumacher (StepChange Innovations, Germany) Tobias Schurr (Weko, Germany), Rainer Tüxen (RotaSpray, Germany) and Felmke Zijilstra (DyeCoo, Netherlands).

European innovations
“It’s fantastic that all of this innovation is taking place in Europe based on established know-how and forward thinking,” said TMAS Secretary General Therese Premler-Andersson.

“Spray application technologies are a perfect illustration of how new digital technologies can lead to more sustainable production, in this case by replacing water-intensive processes with the highly precise and controlled application of dyes and chemistries as vapour.
“There was a major project by the Swedish research organisation Mistra Future Fashion recently, involving many brand and academic institute partners. The project’s Fiber Bible 1 and 2 reports conclude that it’s very difficult to make assumptions that one fiber is better than another, because it’s so much about how fabrics and garments are being produced from them. The study also found that 55% of the chemicals used in a garment comes from the dyeing. This is where a number of TMAS companies can make a difference.
“An organic or recycled cotton t-shirt is not automatically more sustainable than a conventional cotton t-shirt, or even one made from synthetics – the alternative fibers are a good start but you have to consider the entire life cycle of a garment, and that includes the smart technologies in textiles production.
“TMAS members – backed by Swedish brands and advanced research institutes – are playing an active part in pushing forward new concepts that will work, and I have no doubt that digitalisation now goes hand in hand with sustainability for the textile industry’s future.”          

The Lenzing Group scored a total of 30.5 points (4 points more compared to last year) and received for the first time a leading dark green shirt, the highest Hot Button ranking category. Lenzing once again convinced the non-profit organization Canopy with its innovative vision with regard to circular economy and REFIBRA™ technology, its high level of transparency in wood and pulp sourcing, as well as its active contribution towards protecting forests and preserving biodiversity.

In this widely recognized ranking, Canopy grades the world’s 31 largest producers of wood-based fibers with respect to their sustainable wood and pulp sourcing, their efforts with regard to using alternative non-wood feedstock and their achievements for lasting conservation in critical forests round the globe.

Leading in sustainable sourcing with a decade-long clean record
Wood and pulp are the most important raw materials for Lenzing’s sustainable production of cellulosic fibers. The Lenzing Group is particularly proud of its decade-long clean record of sustainable wood sourcing, evidenced by its long-standing credible commitment to wood certification, which Lenzing pioneered already in the 1990s. Lenzing’s commercial wood sources are  100 percent either certified by FSC® or PEFC™, or controlled in line with FSC® standards.

Social impact and afforestation project in Albania
At the backdrop of Lenzing’s long history of clean sourcing, the company is even more aware that the global forests are seriously threatened by illegal logging and deforestation but also by the consequences of climate change. This is why Lenzing – in addition to supporting a number of Canopy’s conservation projects – has set up a social impact and afforestation project in Albania (Southern Europe).*

Special focus on sustainable plantations in Brazil
For its latest investment in a pulp mill in Brazil, Lenzing actively collaborates with Canopy to ensure that the wood sourcing is in line with sustainable practices. The plant will be among the highest productive and energy-efficient facilities in the world and will feed the 40 percent excess bioelectricity generated on site as “green energy” into the public grid.*

REFIBRA™ technology: Commercially available since 2017
As a long-standing player in the industry, Lenzing has undertaken extensive research into many different alternative non-wood cellulose sources such as annual plants, like hemp, straw, and bamboo. Until now, textile waste has turned out to be the most promising alternative feedstock for scaled commercial use.
Lenzing’s lyocell fiber produced with the breakthrough REFIBRA™ technology (Eco Cycle technology for nonwoven applications) uses textile waste as part of the feedstock and is an important step towards a circular economy.*

50 percent recycled content by 2024
It is Lenzing’s vision to make textile waste recycling a common standard process like paper recycling and to offer fibers produced with REFIBRA™ technology with up to 50 percent recycled content from post-consumer waste by 2024.

*Please read attached document for more information

The Secoli Fashion Show, live this year on the Camera Moda digital platform, staged the projects of 19 students supported by exceptional companies such as Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei, which supplied its precious and contemporary materials for the creation of some pieces of the collections.

During Milan Fashion Week the students of Istituto Secoli presented their projects for the traditional appointment of the Secoli Fashion Show, an event that this year has took place in digital version in a particular dedicated section - Italian Education Lab - live on the streaming platform of Camera Nazionale della Moda.

The students designed three women collections and two men collections interpreting the concept of SHAPE.

Brands of excellence supported the young creatives for the creation of the collections, such as Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei, which provided the printed fabrics - produced by Tessitura Grisotto - for the creation of some pieces of the collections, that were used in particular for shirts and padded outerwear and quilted parts.
 
Bemberg™ is a fiber that comes from the smart and technologically advanced transformation of pre-consumer cotton linter materials and converted through a traceable and transparent process. Its uniqueness comes from its exceptional qualitative characteristics such as the magnificent touch - which is soft and smooth as silk, like a second skin - brilliance and radiance. Bemberg™ also has antistatic and breathable performances and the fiber is biodegradable and compostable too.

The collaboration with these companies is continuous and in the name of the close and interconnected relationship between education and the world of work. A support that is also reconfirmed for Asahi Kasei, who for years has supported the Istituto Secoli with an intense commitment in the field of education to new generations.

In addition to Istituto Secoli, Bemberg™ invests in future generations of professionals in the textile and clothing sector also through BIELLA MASTER DELLE FIBRE NOBILI and Sanchi no Gakko (in Japanese “School of Textile & Yarn Production Site”) founded three years ago and supported for two years by Asahi Kasei through its “Bemberg Lab”.

• When it comes to smart fashion the uniqueness of Bemberg™ is crucial for every style

MURREN, the 100% made of Bemberg™ chemisier dress by ECOALF

Long sleeves, straight-cut with a shirt neck, buttons on the front and adjustable waist, the Murren dress by ECOALF is made from 100% of Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei, made from the smart-tech transformation of pre-consumer material, cotton linter and in a closed loop system, converted through a traceable and transparent closed loop process  and is also biodegradable. The dress falls beautifully, thanks to the fabric it is made of.  As well as being sustainable, its silky soft to the touch, one of the main exceptional characteristics of Bemberg™. This casual dress is a ready-to-wear solution for every occasion being a classical must have of the woman wardrobe. Its breathable performance enhances and underlines Bemberg™ versatility of use.  

The Zurs Cargo pants by Ecoalf, 100% made of Bemberg™ 

Relaxed fit and lazy mood for the Zurs cargo trousers, with pockets and elastic in the hem. Also this style is 100% Bemberg™ and it is another demonstration of this material capability of being perfect for every occasion, as for this sporty outfit. Like every jogging pant has to be, it’s cool, gives superior comfort, and it’s breathable thanks to the incredible characteristics of the materials: controlling moisture, that keeps the body fresh and comfortable, and elasticity for freedom of movement.

Reinach, Switzerland - Archroma, a global leader in color and specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, today announced a new collaboration with Esprit, the global fashion clothing brand, who selected the EarthColors® range for its ‘I AM SUSTAINABLE’ capsule collection.

Esprit was founded in California by couple Susie and Doug Tompkins in 1968, and is now headquartered in Germany and Hong Kong, with a presence in 40 countries around the globe. Esprit creates laid-back, high-quality essentials that reflect its core values of sustainability, equality and freedom of choice. The brand developed its first eco-conscious collection made of 100% organic cotton, back in the early 90’s.

Archroma’s EarthColors® range came to public attention for being the Gold Winner of the OutDoor Industry Award 2017, Sustainable Innovations category. The range is regularly featured by brands such as Kathmandu, G-Star and Ternua, who are willing to explore truly innovative and authentic color options for more eco-conscious casual wear collections. Archroma’s EarthColors® is a line of patented plant-based dyes, sourced from up to 100 percent renewable resources. Archroma developed EarthColors® using non-edible waste products, from agriculture and herbal industries, to replace petroleum derived raw materials; which are the conventional raw materials used to synthesize dyes currently. This gives brands an alternative when looking for more natural ways of dyeing garments.

The colors available in the capsule collection created by Esprit: mauve, beige, blue, khaki, pink and blush hues, are made from the non-edible parts of nutshells, almond shells, rosemary, saw palmetto, bitter orange and beetroot, left over from agriculture industry or herbal extraction.

The brand is working on future fall/winter and spring/summer collections with more exciting articles to discover for nature-inspired consumers.

“Colors traditionally made with plants come with some limitations in terms of color reproducibility, fastness and they require huge amounts of plants to produce the quantities needed at industrial scale”, comments Kristina Seidler-Lynders, Manager Social & Environmental Sustainability at Esprit. “So when Archroma presented us their EarthColors®, we were excited to have found a technology that would allow us to explore authentic colors synthesized from plants rather than petroleum.”

“The whole team at Esprit really embraced the possibilities of EarthColors®”, says Dion Cragg, Brand Solutions Europe, Brand & Performance Textile Specialties at Archroma. “They truly pushed the boundaries in adopting the concept across every possible article, from t-shirts and scarves to canvas sandals and bags. The end result simply looks amazing, and we are so incredibly proud to be able to support such creativity with our nature-based innovation - because it’s our nature!”

OUTLIER presents the "FU/COTTON T-SHIRT" made of 100% smart cotton options by TINTEX

“TEAMING UP IS THE RESPONSIBLE WAY FORWARD”: that’s the motto of TINTEX to build a sustainable wardrobe. From new developments and implementations in production and processes to collaborative partnerships that brought to environment-driven collections, TINTEX had a very rich in news trimester.

OUTLIER produces performance-driven clothing. The brand selected 100% smart cotton options by TINTEX to develop an experimental, box cut, heavyweight (8oz/280gsm) t- shirt, that they called FU/COTTON T-SHIRT.
The t-shirt is enriched by a GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) certified 100% Organic cotton RIB for the neck.

The conference on sustainability in production, trade and consumption will take a second round: On March 24, 2020, the Weser-Kurier’s conference SUSTAIN will take place in the run-up to the International Cotton Conference once more. The Bremen Cotton Exchange is again cooperating partner of this event. The theme “City and Change – the Future of the Textile Retail Trade” is on focus this year.

Shirt and trpousers or blouse and skirt – clothing is an instrument of expression, a social must and a major factor of consumption. Internet and debates on climate change have changed the indicators. On the one hand, textile online trade is booming, while local stores have come under pressure to an increasing degree and cities are on the search for new ideas. On the other hand, consumers increasingly ask for products considering aspects of fairness and ecology during production. Manufacturers and stores have to react. These subjects are on focus during the Sustain that takes place on Tuesday, March 24, 2020 in Bremen in the Glocke.

Exciting keynote speakers and panel guest from fashion, science and the textile industry
Sustain will feature outstanding speakers from the economy, politics and society discussing for instance the possibilities of new techniques in stationary retail trade, the compatibility of fair production with business interests of manufacturers as well as the question whether consumers are willing to pay the additional costs of sustainability. These are themes that influence the vitality of the cities just as the purchase decisions of the consumers.

Prof. Dr Niko Paech, Professor of Economics, Wolfgang Krogmann, Advisory Director Primark, Urs-Stefan Kinting, Managing Partner of the Zero Group, Model & TV Presenter Alena Gerber, Rolf Heimann, CEO Hessnatur Stiftung, Kai Falk, Managing Director Communication of the German retail association Handelsverband Deutschland and many others confirmed their participation.

In the 2019 `Hot-Button´ report issued by the forest conservation organisation Canopy, Kelheim Fibres attained a “green shirt” ranking. Many fashion brands already value the `Hot-Button´ report as a reliable indicator for sustainability for viscose fibre producers.

Raw material wood sourced only from certified sustainable forestry
The CanopyStyle initiative aims to achieve that no wood from ancient and endangered forests is used to produce viscose fibres. The audited companies must prove that they avoid these fibres and have implemented appropriate rules and procedures to check the origin of the wood. Performance in the areas environmental protection and innovation have been examined and evaluated by qualified external auditors; the report will be posted publicly in the first quarter of 2020.

Sustainable fibres for a changing market
“For years now Kelheim Fibres has consistently recognised the importance of sustainability and environmental protection. Now that resource saving and alternatives to plastics are of focal interest to the public and to the economy, our products are meeting with an even better reception from the market. Fibres produced in Germany with low emissions from certified sustainable timber meet the needs of customers seeking products that have a low risk of sourcing from ancient and endangered forests. “Having been awarded a `green shirt´ in the `Hot-Button´ ranking once again underlines this absolutely clearly!” says Matthew North, Commercial Director at Kelheim Fibres.

“Hot Button Report”, the Canadian non-profit organization Canopy particularly highlights the innovative strength of the Lenzing Group, its active contribution to forest conservation and high level of transparency.

In the “Hot Button Report” issued by the Canadian non-profit organization Canopy, the Lenzing Group was once again rated number one in the world, thus confirming its role as the sustainability trailblazer in the textile industry. In this widely recognized ranking, Canopy grades the world’s 32 largest producers of wood-based fibers with respect to their success in achieving sustainable wood and pulp sourcing. Wood and the pulp derived from it are the most important raw materials underlying Lenzing’s sustainable production of cellulosic fibers.

“We are extremely proud of this top ranking. It underlines our leading position as a sustainability trailblazer in the manufacturing sector and in the fiber industry in particular. It gives our customers the confidence that we have created the right structures to prevent the sourcing and use of wood from ancient and endangered forests”, says Stefan Doboczky, CEO of the Lenzing Group. “Environmental protection and the prudent use of resources are an integral part of our responsibility to nature and society”, he adds.

Lenzing primarily convinced the non-profit organization Canopy this year thanks to its innovative strength used to promote the circular economy in the textile industry, its active contribution towards protecting the forests and preserving biodiversity as well as its high level of transparency in pulp sourcing.

Lenzing received a total of 26.5 points (up 3.5 points from the previous year) and was thus given the “light to mid green shirt” rating. This means that in using the wood-based cellulosic fibers produced by the Lenzing Group, there is only a very minimal danger that wood is derived from primeval forests and endangered forest areas. In the Wood and Pulp Policy published by Lenzing, the company confirms that it only sources wood and pulp from non-controversial sources.

Fortum, together with the sustainable fibre technology company Spinnova have today introduced the first prototype product born out of their joint development of using wheat straw in the production of highly sustainable textile fibre.

Fortum and Spinnova are showcasing the world’s first clothing made from agricultural waste, namely wheat straw, at the Textile Exchange Sustainability Conference in Vancouver, during 15-17 October. The showpieces include a knitted t-shirt, as well as a jacket and skirt made of a woven fabric on organic cotton warp.

The prototype material is unique also due to its extremely low environmental impact from raw material extraction, processing and manufacture, verified by life-cycle analysis (LCA).

“We are very excited to present this revolutionary textile. Today, wheat straw is mostly discarded or even burned in the fields. As it can now be used in numerous textile applications, this opens up huge possibilities globally. This cooperation is a tangible step towards Fortum’s strategy to build options for significant new businesses that improve resource efficiency and provide smart solutions for a cleaner world. We would like to invite more key industry players to join us in this journey,” says Heli Antila, VP, Biobased solutions at Fortum.

“We are all very proud of this amazing collaborative accomplishment! This was a very fast journey from the first trials to real, appealing fabric materials. This shows that wheat straw-based fibre is well on its way to being a drop-in product of the most sustainable kind,” says Spinnova’s CEO Janne Poranen.