From the Sector

Archroma, a global leader in specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, will showcase innovations for the denim industry at Sustainability Talks in Istanbul, Turkey and Denim Première Vision in Milan, Italy next month.

Specifically, Archroma will highlight its DENIM HALO pretreatment and dyeing process for laser-friendly, easily washable denim. It will also join its partners Kipaş Denim and Jeanologia to launch a joint hangtag for the upcoming Kipaş Denim Contra Denim collection, which is based on the DENIM HALO concept.

“Denim continues to be an incredibly exciting market segment, with brands and mills pushing the limits in terms of sustainability and aesthetics to give consumers the iconic look and feel of denim in a more environmentally conscious way,” Umberto De Vita, Archroma’s Market Segment Director - Denim, said. “Guided by our PLANET CONSCIOUS+ approach, we develop solutions that not only help our customers navigate the shift to cleaner chemistries and resource-saving processes, but improve their productivity and competitiveness too.”

Innovative DENIM HALO process
The DENIM HALO process combines Archroma’s new DIRSOL® RD special pretreatment with its DENISOL® indigo dyes, including an aniline-free formulation, or DIRESUL® sulfur black, sulfur blue or sulfur colors dyestuffs to achieve a ring-dyeing effect. This superficial dyeing creates laser-friendly denim for popular worn or distressed washdown effects while reducing yarn shrinkage and improving garment tensile strength.

Crucially, the new process also delivers a substantially reduced environmental footprint compared to industry-standard denim finishing. It avoids processes like manual hand scraping or potassium permanganate spraying and helps reduce caustic soda use in sulfur dyeing, which lowers the effluent load and improves weaving efficiency.

Low-impact Contra Denim collection
Archroma will also join Kipaş Denim, a leader in integrated textile production based in Turkey, and Jeanologia, a sustainable textile solutions company, to launch a hangtag program for the upcoming Kipaş Denim Contra Denim collection.

Based on DENIM HALO, the Contra Denim concept is a dyeing and finishing process that enables brands to create stunning and long-lasting distressed looks and design effects, such as intricate patterns, whiskering and fades, through cleaner processes that save water and energy and reduce greenhouse gas emissions. The hangtag will enable partner brands to communicate these benefits to consumers at the point of sale, nurturing transparency and trust.

The Archroma team at Sustainability Talks 2024
Sustainability Talks is an intensive one-day event that emphasizes networking and collaboration to solve the textile industry’s toughest challenges through sustainable solutions (Archroma in Turkey at Booth 20 at the Hilton Istanbul Bomonti Conference Center for Sustainability Talks on December 3, 2024).

Archroma at Denim Première Vision 2024
Denim Première Vision is bringing the global denim community to Milan, Italy in December to explore denim trends, markets and culture through the lens of eco-responsibility. Meet our experts Umberto De Vita and Julio Perales to learn more about our denim solutions. (Archroma in Milan at Booth C14 at Superstudio Più for Denim Première Vision on December 4-5, 2024).

Utilizing renewable materials* and formaldehyde-free chemistries, the industry-first Archroma NTR Printing System combines newly created pigment black and customized auxiliaries for enhanced sustainability, comfort and durability
 
Archroma, a company in specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, introduced the NTR Printing System to make bio-based pigment printing commercially possible for the first time. Based on renewable raw materials and designed for safer chemistry, it helps apparel and textile brands reduce their environmental footprint while producing brilliant black shades on garments that deliver both comfort and durability.

Bio-based pigment printing is an emerging technology that is attracting major interest from brands that want to use pigments derived from natural sources, such as plants, in the production of environmentally conscious textiles. Until now, however, bio-based pigments have not delivered color fastness that is comparable to synthetic pigments, and color quality and production performance have not been sufficient to support commercial-scale production.

Archroma’s NTR Printing System is the first to utilize renewable feedstock across pigment dispersion, binder and fixing agent. Crucially, it ensures good wet-rubbing and dry-rubbing fastness, with outstanding softness on all kinds of fabrics. Furthermore, it is suitable for most popular application technologies, including printing, coating and continuous pigment dyeing, with outstanding runnability for production efficiency.

“These properties make the new NTR Printing System ideal for the highly competitive denim market, where sustainability, comfort and durability are important; for knits, where very soft handfeel is essential; and on babywear, where both exceptional softness and safety are required,” Joaquin Femat, Market Segment Director for Printing, Archroma, said.

The result of more than two years of research and development, the innovative new NTR Printing System required Archroma to create customized binding and fixing agents to ensure fastness for the pigment black dispersion comparable to current petroleum-based printing systems. All three printing elements are partially based on renewable feedstock to reduce reliance on non-renewable petrochemicals. Archroma also developed the new system to avoid toxic input streams and impurities, including formaldehyde. Two successful bulk trials were conducted with Textprint S. A. and Jeanologia.

The NTR printing system comprises the following highly efficient and robust printing elements:

• PRINTOFIX® BLACK NTR-TF: A non-gelling pigment black with 79% renewable carbon content*, designed for use in textile applications with no impact on fastness levels.
• HELIZARIN® NTR-SS: A formaldehyde-free super-soft binder with 40% renewable carbon content, designed to ensure very good overall fastness levels.
• LUPRINTOL® FIXING AGENT NTR-HF: A formaldehyde-free fixing agent with 40% renewable carbon content**, designed for high wet fastness in rubbing and laundry.

All three elements are currently being evaluated for compliance with globally accepted standards like bluesign®, the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) and Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC). The system also supports major industry restricted substances list (RSL) requirements.

Archroma, a leader in specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, honed its vision of the future of the apparel and textile industry with the announcement of “PLANET CONSCIOUS+”, a roadmap designed to support brands and mills to chart their sustainability journey.

“Over the past decade, Archroma has been on a mission to lead the textile industry towards a more sustainable future. But the world’s challenges are escalating – from climate change to economic and geopolitical instability. We believe that the time is right for us to realign our vision to guide the next phase of our development. ‘PLANET CONSCIOUS+’ encapsulates both our responsibility and our potential as a company that touches and colors people’s lives every day, all around the world,” Mark Garrett, Group CEO, Archroma, said.

“PLANET CONSCIOUS+” has six dimensions, the first four of which have been rolled out over the past few months:

• SUPER SYSTEMS+: Powerful end-to-end systems that combine processing solutions and intelligent effects, SUPER SYSTEMS+ deliver measurable environmental impact, more durable colors and effects, and cleaner chemistry as compared to the current market offering. This allows brands and mills to select the impact they want to achieve in line with their sustainability goals.
• SAFE EDGE+: Groundbreaking initiative represents a major commitment to providing a roadmap for compliance and cleaner chemistries for use in the textile industry by combining The Safe Edge platform with Foundation+. Foundation+, Archroma’s beyond-compliance portfolio, is a curated selection of Archroma products that utilize innovative technologies to either design out hazardous or regulated substances or reduce them by more than 95% compared to the current industry standard limits.
• ONE WAY+: Combining Archroma’s One Way Impact Calculator, a world-first online tool for sustainable value chain mapping, with its expert-led Sustainability Improvement Program (SIP), ONE WAY+ helps mills and brands overcome their specific challenges with products and tools that offers the highest operational excellence and productivity, achieves savings of resources such as water, energy, and creates differentiation with value-added end-products.
• COLOR MANAGEMENT+: An advanced color design and development solution, COLOR MANAGEMENT+ helps mills and brands work together for improved sustainability. It incorporates the industry’s largest off-the-shelf color atlas selection alongside color standards created with Archroma’s SUPER SYSTEMS+ for reduced environmental impact and consistent and accurate color reproduction.

The remaining two pillars of “PLANET CONSCIOUS+” are being introduced today to underscore that innovation and transparency are the cornerstones of the Archroma way of working.

• INNOVATION+: Archroma brings together science, our technological expertise and in-depth market, customer, and regulatory knowledge to create groundbreaking solutions that have a positive environmental impact. To accelerate the shift to a circular economy and help manufacturers use resources more efficiently, Archroma’s research and development teams across Americas, Asia and Europe focus on innovating for cleaner chemistry and durable effects.
• COMMUNICATION+: By providing authentic, fact-based information to all stakeholders, Archroma helps improve transparency across the value chain. This enables mills and brands to communicate their sustainability goals and achievements with confidence and navigate issues like regulatory complexity and consumer skepticism.

Archroma launched SAFE EDGE+ to help mills and brands deliver supply chain transparency, accelerate time to market and stay ahead of evolving textile industry regulations.

The Safe Edge by Archroma online platform was launched in 2021 and was designed to allow brands, retailers and manufacturers to verify with just a few clicks the regulatory and compliance status of Archroma products, including regulations, ecotoxicological information, certifications, and expert notes. Foundation+, Archroma’s beyond compliant portfolio, is a curated selection of Archroma products that utilizes innovative technologies that may contain hazardous or regulated substances that have been designed out or reduced by more than 95% as compared to the current industry standard limits. It offers safer and more sustainable alternatives that help manufacturers, brands and retailers stay ahead of evolving regulations.

SAFE EDGE+ sits alongside other specialist tools and technologies from Archroma, including its SUPER SYSTEMS+ suite of fiber-specific solutions and intelligent effects, and ONE WAY+ - Archroma’s ONE WAY Impact Calculator combined with Sustainability Improvement Program.

Archroma is bringing its latest “Planet Conscious+” innovations to FEBRATEX 2024 in Brazil with the aim to empower the region’s textile mills and brands to lead the industry shift to sustainability.

SUPER SYSTEMS+ are end-to-end systems that combine fiber-specific processing solutions and intelligent effects. Drawing on the industry’s broadest product portfolio, the SUPER SYSTEMS+ suite encompasses wet processing solutions that deliver measurable environmental impact from sizing to finishing; durable colors and functional effects that add value and longevity to the end product; and cleaner chemistries that eliminate harmful or regulated substances.

Textile industry professionals will be able to explore Archroma’s “PLANET CONSCIOUS+” vision at FEBRATEX 2024 and discover SUPER SYSTEMS+ technologies such as Archroma’s DENIM HALO, a newly launched concept for denim production that is both eco-friendly and simple, aniline-free* DENISOL® PURE INDIGO 30 LIQ pre-reduced indigo, and the patented EarthColors® technology that creates high-performance bio waste-based dyes from non-edible food and agricultural waste. Archroma is also showcasing ULTRATEX® STS-U, a compatible hydrophilic silicone softener for cotton and cotton blended knits with great running stability, Siligen® EH1, a biomass-based silicone softener that has great moisture management and delivers a smooth soft touch, AVITERA® SE GENERATION NEXT for cellulosic fibers and blends that enables significant resource savings, chlorine fastness and improved cost-to-performance ratio for dark and extra-dark shades, and ERIOPON® E3-SAVE all-in-one auxiliary.

Archroma is collaborating with Zydat Inc. to bring the complete Color Atlas by Archroma® color library to the Vivid Color Library Management (CLM) color-matching platform for faster and more accurate inkjet digital printing of fashion and textiles

Archroma’s Color Atlas is the textile industry’s largest library of engineered color standards, with more than 5,760 color references formulated to comply with leading eco-standards and deliver consistent and accurate color reproduction.

With these colors available within Vivid CLM’s online color palette optimization and correction tools, designers can more quickly and easily create and share their color palettes for more accurate inkjet printing. This can reduce the burden of pre-production color proofing and streamline the color management process to help deliver high-quality printed fabric and apparel in a fast and economical way.

Vivid CLM was launched by Zydat in February 2024. It offers a unique and designer-oriented solution to color matching with a proprietary algorithm that translates complex spectral data into a Red-Green-Blue workflow and allows the user to print, scan and check the color, with automatic adjustments to improve accuracy. The solution’s palette storage system allows colorists to share palettes across the ecosystem.

In addition to accessing all of the 5,760 colors in the Archroma Color Atlas portfolio as digital standards within Vivid CLM, users of the software may also choose to refer to Archroma’s physical color library in multiple formats. They can also tap into Archroma’s expertise around the world for technical support with sustainable coloration systems and achievability on alternate substrates.

The Color Atlas by Archroma® is part of the Archroma Color Management+ design and development solution for more sustainable textiles and fashion through fast color selection and creation, consistent and accurate color reproduction, and reduced environmental impact.

Archroma has won awards in two categories at the Just Style 2024 Excellence Awards. It took home two coveted Innovation Excellence awards for its SUPER SYSTEMS+ solutions and AVICUERO® leather tanning process, as well as a Social Excellence award for its longstanding and holistic commitment to community engagement in Baroda, India.

The awards recognize how Archroma is driving change with innovations that advance sustainability and through initiatives that contribute to the socio-economic progress of communities near to its Baroda manufacturing plant.

Innovation Awards
Archroma was recognized for advancing sustainable manufacturing in two Just Style Excellence Awards for Innovation.

SUPER SYSTEMS+ is a comprehensive suite of solutions that addresses the textile industry's key challenges, including water consumption, greenhouse gas emissions, circularity, chemical management and compliance.

By providing end-to-end, fiber-specific solutions that enhance process efficiency and offer intelligent effects, SUPER SYSTEMS+ enables mills and brands to meet their sustainability targets as well as consumer demand for durable products with enhanced functionality and sustainability. With end-to-end solutions from pre-treatment to finishing, SUPER SYSTEMS+ can be deployed without additional investment. With future compliance in mind, the solutions also go beyond current regulations and industry standards to anticipate upcoming restrictions.

Archroma’s AVICUERO® is a system for sustainable leather tanning and dyeing. Developed in collaboration with UK-based leather technology expert Dr Leather, it is both chrome- and metal-free and yet maintains the quality and performance of traditional tanning methods. Tanners enjoy shorter processing times, eliminate the pickling process and reduce salt usage, leading to lower pollution effluent discharge loads. In addition, AVICUERO® can offer energy savings of up to 25% and CO₂ emissions reductions of up to 23% compared to traditional chrome tanning.

Social Award for Community Engagement
Archroma has also been recognized for the positive impact it is having on communities in the vicinity of Baroda through multifaceted initiatives that span early childhood development, student scholarships, agricultural education and the empowerment of women.

Archroma recently set up an Anganwadi Centre to provide a range of services in the community, including nutrition and health education and pre-school learning. It also runs a scholarship program for students in vocational training, helping to create a skilled talent pool for the region. Archroma is also collaborating with a local NGO to empower farmers with modern agricultural methods and insights.

The building of a Household Biogas Plant in Umraya village is another example of Archroma's sustainable initiatives. The conversion of manure into clean renewable energy by the plant tackles several issues, such as reducing greenhouse gas emissions and enhancing soil health. It also liberates rural women from the burden of sourcing conventional fuel sources and the health risks associated with burning dung cakes for fuel.

Archroma is bringing its new SUPER SYSTEMS+ concept and key denim innovations to Denim Première Vision Milan on June 5 and 6 and Denimsandjeans Vietnam on June 26 and 27.

From classic blue jeans to fashion-forward designs with fresh cuts, colors and finishes, denim remains one of the most popular fabrics worldwide. At the same time, the industry is beginning to question traditional production methods that use considerable water and energy and also have limitations in terms of the selection of chemicals and dyes that are clean and safe.

Archroma will demonstrate its solutions at Denim Première Vision Milan and Denimsandjeans Vietnam, including SUPER SYSTEMS+ for Denim. SUPER SYSTEMS+ are end-to-end systems developed by Archroma to allow brands and mills to make an impact by saving resources, delivering more durable apparel or adopting cleaner chemistries, or by choosing enhanced outcomes in all three areas at once. The suite encompasses wet processing solutions from sizing to finishing; durable colors and functional effects that add value; and cleaner chemistries that go beyond compliance to anticipate future restrictions.

Trade show visitors will also be able to explore Archroma’s new DENIM HALO, a laser-friendly and easy washable denim, as well as a range of other product innovations, such as DIRESUL® EVOLUTION BLACK, DENISOL® PURE INDIGO 30 and EarthColors®.

DIRESUL® EVOLUTION BLACK is Archroma’s cleanest sulfur black dyestuff. Manufactured using fewer resources, it has an overall impact reduction to 57% during dye synthesis compared to standard Sulfur Black 1 liquid.* Importantly, it also offers mills the opportunity to deliver unique shade and wash-down effects that stand out in the market.

DENISOL® PURE INDIGO 30 LIQ is an aniline-free** pre-reduced indigo that creates authentic denim look with the same performance and efficiency as conventional indigo dye, but in a way that can reduce the risk of pollution. Furthermore, it is produced in an aniline-free** process to help enable cleaner denim production.

EarthColors® is a patented Archroma technology that creates high-performance biowaste-based dyes from non-edible food and agricultural waste, leaving the edible part available for consumption. EarthColors® dyes are fully traceable and help reduce the industry’s overall impact on the water footprint. Since they upcycle waste from other industries, they also help contribute to a circular economy.

* Ecotarrae lifecycle analysis
** Below limits of detection according to industry standard test methods

Integrated textile mill Nuevo Mundo is partnering with Archroma to offer collections utilizing Archroma’s EarthColors® agricultural waste based dyes and produced with zero liquid discharge and substantial resource savings.

A strategic partner of apparel brands, Nuevo Mundo is a market leader in South America with a 75-year history. It helps brands expand into new markets with value-added products that capture growing consumer demand for quality and sustainability. The company is a pioneer in the adoption of water-saving processes and chemicals that have minimal impact on the environment.

Nuevo Mundo is now reinforcing its commitment to sustainability with the creation of new collections that utilize Archroma’s biowaste-based EarthColors® dyes. Based on patented Archroma technology, these high-performance dyes are from non-edible agricultural or herbal industry waste in a process that helps to reduce the negative impact on water footprint, natural resources and climate change compared to conventional synthetic dye production where toxic and non-renewable oil derivative products are used as raw material.*

The organic raw materials used for the dyes created for Nuevo Mundo include residues from cotton plants, beets and saw palmetto. In addition to using these biowaste-based dyes, the EarthColors® collections will be produced in Nuevo Mundo’s zero liquid discharge facilities, providing savings in time, water and energy, as well as emissions.

Nuevo Mundo and Archroma intend their alliance to be a long-term collaboration, with plans to release new collections based on EarthColors® in the coming year and beyond.

*Based on internal LCA comparative screening

Archroma and Cotton Incorporated, a research and promotion company for cotton, have renewed their eight-year collaboration to help accelerate the shift to more sustainable circular economy.

The two organizations began working together in 2016 when Cotton Incorporated approached Archroma with the goal of developing a dyestuff from the byproducts of cotton production.

The U.S., the world’s third-largest cotton producer and largest exporter, produces sustainable cotton fiber for the textile and apparel industry as well as cottonseed for food and animal feed. Cotton farming and processing also generate byproducts, such as burs, stems and leaves, that are used to create insulation, packaging, erosion control products, and more. Cotton Incorporated recognized the potential to use these natural byproducts to produce dyes.

Drawing on a century-long heritage of sulfur dye innovation, the Archroma research team was able to apply its patented EarthColors® technology to create DIRESUL® Earth-Cotton using cotton by products from the U.S. supply chain. An alternative to the usual oil-based dyes, Earth-Cotton allows brands to offer textile products in warm natural shades, using cotton to create both fabric and dye.