From the Sector

• Contracts signed for seven projects
• Contract comprises delivery of compact- and ring-spinning systems
• Total amounts to roughly CHF 180 million
• Order intakes are anticipated to be realized in 2019; sales posted in the 2020/2021 financial years

Rieter Group has signed contracts with the Cotton & Textile Industries Holding Company, Cairo (Egypt), at the ITMA 2019. These seven projects entail a total of 180 million Swiss francs. The contract comprises delivery of compact- and ring-spinning systems over the next two years. This order is part of a comprehensive modernization program of the Egyptian textile industry. The order intakes are anticipated to be realized in 2019 with sales posted in the 2020/2021 financial years.

The contracts were signed at the ITMA in Barcelona, Spain, by Dr. Ahmed Moustafa Mohamed, Chairman Cotton & Textile Industries Holding Company, and Dr. Norbert Klapper, CEO Rieter.

Dr. Klapper was very pleased at the formal signing of contracts: “We would like to thank our Egyptian business partners for the confidence they are placing in Rieter by awarding us this contract. Rieter has been the partner of choice of the Egyptian spinning industry for decades. We are delighted to be given the opportunity of making such an important contribution to the modernization of the Egyptian textile industry.”

Research and restoring of ancient tradition to shape a denim style which is always cutting-edge, focusing on a 100% Italian supply chain and on the outstanding quality of materials and processes.

“Ciao Milano”, the new edition of the Denim Première Vision show, for the first time in Milan (28-29 Maggio 2019), includes among its protagonist the project signed by Paolo Gnutti, aka PG DENIM. The company, under Gnutti’s creative guidance, has restyled its proposals, with two clear objectives in mind: on the one hand expanding its presence on the high-end denim market, focusing more and more on a bespoke approach and on product innovation, on the other side the ambitious goal of manufacturing one million metres of fabric in the year 2019.

This path of constant research is combined with a totally integrated and 100% Italian manufacturing structure, in order to give the market not just new products, but also new “tools”, says Paolo Gnutti, R&D Head at PG DENIM:
“We are targeting the market section where production always requires thinking out of the box, which feeds the imagination of those who are asked to transform it. Our approach is often made of provocations, suggestions, reflections, through continuous research which leads us to designing frequent and always innovative capsule collections”.

A creative input which almost always results from situations and pathways which bring back the creativity of
PG DENIM, to rediscover techniques and processes of the great Italian and international tailoring tradition.

Archroma announced it has signed a memorandum of understanding with the National Textile University (NTU) in Pakistan. The memorandum will pave way for cooperation initially for a five-year period.

The partnership will explore innovations in textile research with futuristic visualization to help the textile industry to align with the fast pace of global requirements and evolutions. Another important aspect of this collaboration will be research in the field of unsaturated polyester resins in establishing quality and accessible product lines in non-conventional technical textiles. Both partners will jointly hold sessions to prepare students for the challenges of the textile industry through in-house training sessions, developmental projects, research in textile applications and process innovative methodologies by pioneering value additions. The students of NTU will also be able to join internship placement programs at Archroma’s Center of Excellence in Karachi.

The brand Re.VerSo ™, representative of a zero-waste circular production system for wool and cashmere, has been selected as one of the protagonists of the Sustainable Thinking project of the Museo Salvatore Ferragamo. The Exhibition aims to provide an artistic and cultural contribution on the crucial issue of sustainability, understood as "a development that meets the needs of the present, without compromising the possibility of future generations to meet their needs "(Brundtland Report, 1987).

Re.VerSo™, the advanced supply chain entered the exhibition project. Leftovers can be sourced directly by Re.VerSo™ supply chain, otherwise the Re.VerSo™ advanced technology process welcomes retailers and brands to supply their pre-consumer wool and cashmere woven and knitted off cuts, transforming them into high quality yarns and fabrics integrated for a circular economy.

This year, AZL won the JEC AWARD 2019 for the development of the new machine system “Ultra-Fast Consolidator Machine”. This innovative machine system is a result of an 18-months AZL Joint Partner Project, conducted in 2017-2018 by the research partners AZL Aachen and Fraunhofer IPT Aachen, in cooperation with industrial partner companies including Conbility, Covestro, Engel, Evonik, Fagor Arrasate, Faurecia SE, Laserline, Mitsui Chemicals, Mubea Carbo Tech, Philips Photonics, SSDT and Toyota (in alphabetical order).

The new UItra-Fast Consolidator Machine offers both high flexibility and mass production of tailored thermoplastic laminates with reduced scrap. Fully consolidated multi-layer laminates with different fiber directions and minimized scrap (tailored blanks) can be produced in cycle times below 5 seconds with this new scalable machine setup. This individualized mass production is accomplished by a combination of laser-assisted tape placement with in-situ consolidation and a piece-flow principle, which is state of the art in the printing industry but has not been used in such a way within composite production. The achievable productivity is enhanced to more than 500 kg/hour by this piece-flow principle with carriers moved through multiple application stations which are equipped with multiple tape placement applicators. The new machine is scalable: multiple application stations can be added, e.g. for each layer one station for mass production or for each fiber direction one station with a carrier-conveyor carousel: here the carriers are moved multiple times through the application stations.

The system will be commercialized by some of the industrial partners in 2019. The real machine setup has been presented at the AZL booth during the JEC Exhibition in Paris 2019.

The follow-up project has just started and is still open to join for industrial partners. This follow-up project comprises a further upscale of the machine system as well as a preparation of the commercialization by long-term durability tests and further process optimizations using different tape materials.

Prompted by the need to offer an adequate in-depth analysis of topics such as the integration of sustainability in fashion and the importance of the transition to the circular economy, the shared journey of C.L.A.S.S., the multi-platformhub, a reference resource since 2007 for smart innovationin fashion and Polimoda, the internationally recognized institute, world-renowned for its independent approach and innovative vision in terms of “fashion education”, as a result of the perfect combination of business and design.

Eight sessionsduring which topicsrelated to smart innovation, the new role of the designer and the importance of a new generation of communication along withthe urgency of a transversalcooperation and the development of new business models strictly linked to a circular economy approach.
An inspirational path,intensive and engaging, aimed at involving Polimoda students of theFashion Design and Design ManagementMasters –in their future role of protagonists of the fashion industry.
A shared project, aimed at fostering the development of punctual knowledges on responsible innovation, which is to consider effective because of that concrete approach that involves the introduction of smart materials with a view to a circular economy approach.
This is how Polimoda, the fashion institute that boasts an innate and strong policy and strategic vision on the fashion universe at 360 °, and C.L.A.S.S, a reference point since 2007, specialized in the integration of smartvalues withinproducts and fashion companies, in addition to education, partneringto givelife to a driving force thattranslates into a culturalbackground for students.

The EU-funded Project, in which Devan Chemicals is a key partner, held a kick off meeting end of February 2019 at the EU Commission in Brussels, Belgium. The project consortium, led by Belgian R&D centre CENTEXBEL, consists of 17 European partners from across the value chain including design, manufacturing, NGOs, and research and innovation.

The focus of the consortium is on coated and painted textiles and plastic materials which are currently not recyclable. Ambitious plastic recycling targets of 50% have been set by the European Plastics Industry, and to meet these targets, smart solutions to enable the circular use of textile and plastic parts with multi-layer coatings must be considered.

DECOAT has therefore been established to investigate triggerable smart polymer material systems and appropriate recycling processes. The solutions will be based on smart additives (like microcapsules or microwave triggered additives) that will enable the efficient of coatings and other finishes, activated by a specific trigger (heat, humidity, microwave, chemical) to permit recycling.        

Devan’s specific role is in the development of microcapsules that will release its active core on application of a certain trigger (e.g. heat) at the end of life of the article. This active core material may be something that, for example, will promote the detachment of different coating layers (by separating them), opening the possibility for recyclability/re-use of the base materials. Different active core ingredients will be evaluated, and Devan will develop processes for each type of core ingredient and for each type of coating layer/matrix.

The bold aim of the four-year project is to decrease landfill by 75% of coated articles that are presently difficult to recycle, such as clothing, electronic goods and automotive components. A reduction in the carbon footprint by at least 30% for the considered products is aimed for. By enabling the recycling of such materials, DECOAT is expected to generate in the medium term a new market valued at over 150 million Euros in Europe.

With portfolio expansion and future development of the industry in sight, the organisers of Texprocess India and Gartex India have entered into a strategic alliance to form a unified industry platform ‘Gartex Texprocess India’. The event will be part of Messe Frankfurt’s Texpertise Network leveraging on the group’s strong global network and expertise in the sector.
 
Leading in both apparel consumption and exports, India holds the second largest textile manufacturing capacity globally with the textile machinery sector witnessing a growth of 8-10 percent year on year. As the world's second largest exporter of textiles and clothing projected to reach USD 300 billion by 2024, Indian apparel manufacturers are moving towards increasing their manufacturing capacities and upgrading technology, giving rise to automation garmenting processes to enter the Indian market. Having made its debut in 2016, both Texprocess India and Gartex India received tremendous response from the industry with leading associations and companies in the garment and textile machinery sector coming forward to support the shows.
 
At the internationally renowned Texprocess, exhibitors from around the world converge to present the latest machines, plants, processes and services for the manufacture of garments and textile and flexible materials. While Texprocess India was launched as a pavilion to create an innovation platform for garment-manufacturing and textile processing at Techtextil India tradeshow in Mumbai, Gartex India exhibition was held annually in New Delhi and has grown wider in scope covering not just garment and textile manufacturing value chain but has also added segments like innerwear manufacturing zone, Laundry & Denim show along the way in addition to digital textile printing, embroidery and other existing verticals. With the merger of the two strong textile trade fair brands, the organisers, Messe Frankfurt Trade Fairs India Pvt Ltd and MEX Exhibitions, aspire to work in collaboration for India’s textile industry development, facilitating global sourcing and networking in the textile value chains.

At the joint stand of the Aachen Centre for Integrative Lightweight Construction (AZL) in Hall 5A, booth D17, the Institut für Textiltechnik of RWTH Aachen University (ITA) will demonstrate its expertise in the field of glass fibres, preforms and textile concrete 12-14 March 2019 in Paris.
The exhibits come from various fields of application and address the automotive, aerospace and mechanical engineering sectors.

1. Innovative glass fibre research at ITA
   The newly constructed induction heated glass fibre production line enables increased flexibility in research. For the first time, glass fibres will be produced live at the ITA booth at JEC World. One of the innovations of the system is the inductively heated bushing. It features a flexible design and consists of a platinum/rhodium alloy (Pt/Rh20) for use in high-temperature glasses.
   The glass fibre production line was designed in such a way that new concepts and ideas can be tested quickly. The modular design allows a high flexibility, the induction system a significantly faster operability.
   Research and development projects can therefore be carried out faster and more cost-effectively.
    
2. DrapeCube - Forming of textile semi-finished products
   The DrapeCube offers a cost-effective design for the production of fibre preforms from textile semi-finished products. It is used in the production of preforms for prototypes and in small series and is suit-able for companies active in the production of fibre-reinforced plas-tics (FRP).
   In the production of FRP components, the preforming process de-fines a large part of the subsequent component costs. In small- and medium-sized enterprises, this process step is often still carried out manually. This results in high quality fluctuations and component prices. Especially in the case of highly stressed structural components, the fluctuation in quality leads to oversizing of the components.
   Thus, the lightweight construction potential of fiber-reinforced plastics is underused. One solution is offered by the stamp forming process adapted from the sheet metal forming industry for shaping rein-forcing textiles. The textile is inserted between two mould halves (male and female) and automatically formed. Due to high plant and tooling costs, this process is used almost exclusively in large-scale production.
   The ITA has developed the DrapeCube forming station which offers a cost-effective alternative and is able to completely reproduce the current state of the art for forming textile half branches. The process steps will be demonstrated in a video at the booth.
    
3. Carbon fibre reinforced plastic (CFRP) preform
   The CFRP preform consists of carbon multiaxial fabrics formed by expanded polystyrene (EPS) to optimise draping quality. Preforms of increased quality can be produced by gentle, textile-compatible forming with foam expansion. For the first time, foam expansion was used to form preforms in such a way that the draping quality is improved compared to classic stamp forming.
   The advantages of the CFRP preform lie in the savings in plant costs, as the investment is much lower. In addition, the proportion of waste is reduced because near-net-shape production is possible. In addition, rejects are reduced, as fewer faults occur in the textile.
    
4. Embroidered preform with integrated metal insert
   The 12k carbon fibre rovings are shaped into a preform using Tai-lored Fibre Placement (TFP) which is a technical embroidery pro-cess. For the further layer build-up, a fastener is not only integrated under the roving layers but also fixed by additional loops. The highly integrative preforming approach offers the possibility of reducing weight and process steps as well as increasing mechanical perfor-mance.
   Until now, inserts were glued or holes had to be drilled in the com-ponent. Bonded fasteners are limited by the adhesive surface. The bonding of fasteners into drilled holes results in high drill abrasion and thus high tool wear.
   The advantages of the embroidered preform with integrated metal fasteners are the reduction of scrap due to TFP preforming and the increase in the specific pull-out force. In addition, it is possible to automatize the production of integrative preforms. This makes the preform with integrated metal fasteners interesting for the automotive and aerospace industries.

For SEEK’s 10thBirthday we want to give something to those who are usually overlooked. Together with One Warm Winter, we are wrapping up Goodie Bags for the homeless and taking them where they are actually needed – to the streets. That’s why we are asking brands to donate old collection pieces, samples, stock, etc.
 
“We are really happy to team up with One Warm Winter for our SEEK donation initiative. We want to counteract the omnipresent throwaway mentality. Every step counts. Homelessness is a growing issue, especially in Berlin – we hope to bring some warmth to the city streets.”
– SEEK Team
 
“With the GiveBag the fashion industry is setting an important example in terms of awareness and sustainability. Ultimately, these bags are filled with what is often left out by the economy: true charity.”
– Dominic Czaja, One Warm Winter
 
The huge One Warm Winter GiveBag will be filled on all three show days (15–17 January) in front of the SEEK location at Arena Berlin. Every donor will receive a donation receipt and stay informed about the next steps. The GiveBags will be handed out to people in need by the SEEK team and One Warm Winter at the next charity event.

Additional support will be provided by TOMS with a requested voluntary donation in exchange for a nice hot coffee. The end sum will be matched by TOMS and donated directly to One Warm Winter.
 
“Giving is at the heart of everything we do at TOMS, but it’s projects like this that are in our own backyard that hit home the most. Homelessness is one of the issues closest to our hearts, so we couldn’t be more honoured to work with SEEK and One Warm Winter this season to lend a hand to our friends in Berlin that need it most.”
– Lisa Hogg, TOMS EMEA Marketing Director
 
The reaction from the SEEK brands towards our initiative has been amazingly positive – almost all of them are actively and enthusiastically participating by donating garments that cannot be sold anymore.
 
“Palladium Boots is very excited about this call for action and being able to take part in supporting the cause. City terrain is what we are built on and we are glad to gift a little warmth and particularly the gesture of humanity together with SEEK and One Warm Winter.”
– Melanie Bruss, Marketing Manager, Palladium Boots D, AT & NL
 
“The entire CHIEMSEE family is amazed by this initiative! It’s a great feeling to pass on some warmth and distribute it more fairly. Thank you SEEK and One Warm Winter for the idea – the fashion industry definitely needs more of those!”
– The CHIEMSEE family