From the Sector

In the fourth quarter of 2023 Italian textile machinery orders index, drawn up by the Economics Department of ACIMIT, the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers, appears to be stationary compared to data recorded for the same period in 2022. In terms of absolute value, the index stood at 82.4 points (basis: 2015=100).

This is the result of an upswing in orders from foreign markets, counterbalanced by declining orders on the domestic front. While orders in Italy decreased at 18% rate, a 4% increase was observed abroad. The absolute value of the index on foreign markets amounted to 77.9 points, whereas it came in at 126.2 points domestically. Overall for the fourth quarter, the average order backlog yielded 3.7 months of assured production.

For the whole 2023 year, the index declined 25% overall compared to the 2022 average (absolute index of 82.4). On the home front however, the index dropped 24% (absolute index of 124.5), while slipping 25% abroad (absolute index of 78.4).
 
ACIMIT president Marco Salvadè commented: "The orders index for October – December 2023, as elaborated by our Economics Department, confirms an intake of orders that is still weak, with a negative trend in demand for machinery that is ongoing for the domestic market."

Nonetheless, the orders index abroad shows a slight increase. We estimate that the global geopolitical context is still a source of concern,” continued Salvadè, specifying that, “For the first nine months of 2023, Italian exports on major global markets (i.e. China, Turkey, India and the United States of America), confirm a widespread decline. However, some positive signs emerged in the fourth quarter of last year, as reflected by the latest orders index. For 2024 we expect a consolidation of this trend reversal."

Messe Frankfurt will extend its footprint in the Central Asian market by establishing seven brand events in Tashkent, Uzbekistan. The country’s strategic location as a crossroads of Europe and Asia positions it as a promising trade gateway and transportation hub, facilitating the economic development of neighbouring countries and access to the wider region. The company’s stronger presence in the market will promote business opportunities and foster the sustainable development of pillar industries, including cosmetics, textiles and clothing, automotive, logistics and transportation.

Uzbekistan has a promising consumer market with significant potential. It is the largest in Central Asia and is expected to increase due to population growth, rising incomes and the modernisation of economic and industry sectors.
 
The nation has actively sought to diversify its economy in recent years, undertaking reforms for greater entrepreneurial freedom and opening up to more international and regional cooperation. The country already exports precious metals, textiles and agricultural produce. It imports machinery, equipment, means of transportation, and vehicle components from foreign trading partners. Attracting overseas investment is also apparent through incentives such as tax benefits, reduced import duties and simplified procedures for overseas investors.
 
In addition, shifting global supply chains and trading patterns could also drive opportunities in the region. The nation benefits from its geographical location owing to its position between Asia and Europe, to which the Uzbek Government recognises the prospects of investing in infrastructure, such as transportation and logistics, to create an efficient transit hub. Against this backdrop, China acknowledges the importance of developing routes along the Belt and Road while Europe has expressed a readiness to support Uzbekistan’s efforts to diversify transport corridors.

Line-up of shows include:

• Automechanika Tashkent; Futuroad Expo Tashkent; and, Scalex Tashkent: 23 – 25 October 2024
• Heimtextil Uzbekistan; Texworld Tashkent; and, Apparel Sourcing Tashkent: 6 – 8 November 2024
• Beautyworld Central Asia: 21 – 23 November 2024

Für die Transformation der Industrie hin zur Klimaneutralität sind zügige Genehmigungsverfahren eine zentrale Rahmenbedingung. Denn sie bestimmen darüber, ob notwendige Maßnahmen schnell umgesetzt werden können. Mit dem nun veröffentlichten Diskussionspapier legt die unter dem Dach der Landesgesellschaft NRW.Energy4Climate arbeitende Initiative IN4climate.NRW konkrete Vorschläge zur Weiterentwicklung des Rechtsrahmens vor.

EnWG, UVPG, BImSchG, BauGB: Diese Kürzel stehen für Bundesgesetze, die erheblichen Einfluss auf die Dauer von Genehmigungsverfahren nehmen können. Um die Industrie beim klimaneutralen Umbau bestmöglich zu unterstützen, ist es notwendig, diesen bestehenden Rechtsrahmen weiterzuentwickeln. Hier setzt das Diskussionspapier »Vorschläge zur Beschleunigung von Genehmigungsverfahren für die Transformation der Industrie zur Klimaverträglichkeit« an. In fünf Themenfeldern formuliert das Papier Vorschläge zur Änderung des Bundesrechts. Ausgangspunkt sind dabei Praxiserfahrungen der energieintensiven Grundstoffindustrie und der zugehörigen Infrastruktursektoren.

Samir Khayat, Geschäftsführer von NRW.Energy4Climate: »In unserer Initiative IN4climate.NRW bringen wir Wissenschaft, Politik und Wirtschaft an einen Tisch und erarbeiten Lösungsansätze, um den klimaneutralen Umbau der Industrie in der Praxis umzusetzen. Schnelle Genehmigungsverfahren sind hierbei von ganz zentraler Bedeutung. In dem Diskussionspapier machen wir konkrete Vorschläge, die echtes Beschleunigungspotenzial haben. Denn notwendige Umbaumaßen müssen, unter Wahrung der rechtlichen Vorgaben, zeitnah und zielgerichtet umgesetzt werden können.«

Den Diskussionsbeitrag hat IN4climate.NRW gemeinsam mit Partnerunternehmen in der Arbeitsgruppe »Genehmigungsverfahren« erarbeitet. Hierzu gehören Heidelberg Materials, thyssenkrupp Steel, Open Grid Europe und das Fraunhofer-Institut für Umwelt-, Sicherheits- und Energietechnik UMSICHT.

Bundeseinheitliche Beschleunigung von Fachverfahren
Prof. Dr.-Ing. Ulrich Seifert vom Fraunhofer UMSICHT und einer der Autoren: »Die grundsätzliche Passfähigkeit der Vorschläge in den bestehenden Rechtsrahmen und plausibel darstellbare Bezüge zu übergeordneten, rechtsverbindlichen Zielen des Klimaschutzes waren die Leitmerkmale, um aus den beigesteuerten Hinweisen und Empfehlungen der Industriepartner eine Auswahl treffen und ausformulieren zu können. Die Vorschläge konzentrieren sich auf mögliche Änderungen des Bundesrechts, da in erster Linie eine bundeseinheitliche Beschleunigung von Fachverfahren angestrebt werden sollte, die allen Betroffenen in der Praxis zugutekommt. Sie folgen dem erkannten Bedarf, Transformationsvorhaben in der Breite den Weg zu ebnen und dabei auch notwendige Infrastrukturen einzubeziehen.«

Einige der in dem Papier enthaltenen Vorschläge sind bereits Gegenstand laufender Prozesse zur Gesetzesnovellierung, zu welchen das Papier durch die Einbettung in Praxiserfahrungen einen ergänzenden Beitrag leisten möchte. Die Vorschläge sind in die Themenfelder Energiewirtschaftsgesetz (EnWG), Gesetz über die Umweltverträglichkeitsprüfung (UVPG), Bundes-Immissionsschutzgesetz (BImSchG), Baugesetzbuch (BauGB) und Übergreifendes untergliedert. Jedem Änderungsvorschlag wird eine kurze Beschreibung der rechtlichen Situation vorangestellt, die die Problematik mit dem Blick auf zügige Genehmigungsverfahren veranschaulicht. Dem einzelnen Änderungsvorschlag folgt die juristische Begründung.

More than 82 companies, businesses and social organizations – including AkzoNobel – are involved in a major Dutch research program focused on developing new technologies that will help solve some of today’s societal challenges.
 
Seven broad consortia have been established as part of the government-funded “Perspectief” program, with AkzoNobel set to play a leading role in the SusInkCoat project, which will explore how to make inks and coatings more sustainable.

The company will work together with private partners and other societal stakeholders to develop new materials, processes and applications to improve the durability, functionality and recyclability of coatings, thin films and inks. The program, which will run for the next five years, is backed by the Ministry of Economic Affairs and Climate Policy and the Dutch Research Council (NWO).

“Our discussions about collaborating with our SusInkCoat partners have been very positive,” says AkzoNobel’s R&D Director of Scientific Academic Programs, André van Linden, who is also the co-lead of SusInkCoat. “We’re all facing the same societal challenges – how to become more circular – and we’re looking for the same solutions in different application areas. But we’ve never done that together for this specific research topic, so we need an ecosystem to help us solve these challenges.
 
Van Linden adds that the program – one of many R&D projects the company is involved with – will also support AkzoNobel’s ambition to achieve 50% less carbon emissions in its own operations – and across the value chain – by 2030.
 
 “We want to make the recyclability of materials - such as furniture, building materials and steel constructions - easier by introducing functionalities like self-healing, higher durability and triggered release,” he continues. “The more you can leave the materials in their original state, the more sustainably you can operate.”

AkzoNobel will be collaborating with Canon, Evonik, GFB, PTG and RUG Ventures, who together possess extensive knowledge of market demands, supply chains and production processes. All the SusInkCoat partners will also work with academic researchers at several Dutch universities in an effort to identify promising developments that can be commercialized, used for education purposes or for outreach to the public.

Research being conducted by the other six consortia includes investigating methods to make tastier plant-based food; flat optics for more sustainable hi-tech equipment; and cheaper and more accessible medical imaging technology.

The fashion industry, which has strategic importance for the Turkish economy with its value-added production, employment, and exports, came together with representatives of global brands and Laison offices at the 'Green transformation' summit. At the meeting hosted by the Istanbul Apparel Exporters' Association (IHKIB), the studies carried out in the process of adaptation to the Green Deal were put under the spotlight, and the expectations of the Turkish fashion industry from the stakeholders were also expressed.

The opening of the meeting, attended by representatives of relevant ministries and foreign representations, national and international fund providers, as well as brands and buying groups were brought together, was made by Türkiye Exporters Assembly (TIM) and IHKIB President Mustafa Gültepe. In his speech, Gültepe underlined Türkiye's importance in the global apparel industry, by realizing approximately 3.5 percent of world apparel exports. Gültepe continued as follows:

"As IHKIB, we aim to increase our current annual exports, which are around $20 billion, to $40 billion. The road to the goal goes through Europe and America because the European Union is our largest market in apparel. We export 60 percent of our total apparel exports to EU countries. When we add other European countries and the USA, the ratio approaches 75 percent. While working on alternatives for the $40 billion in exports, we need to focus more on the European and U.S. markets because, as the data shows, the path to $40 billion in apparel exports goes through Europe and the U.S. We already have long-standing collaborations with brands centered in Europe and America. With our knowledge, speed, production quality, design power, and geographical proximity to Europe, we distinguish ourselves from competitors. We took a very important step in the transformation process exactly one year ago. We shared our action plan, which is a road map for our fashion industry's compliance with the Green Deal, with the public on January 30, 2023."

After Mustafa Gültepe's opening speech, Euratex Director General Dirk Vantyghem, Deputy Director General of the Ministry of Trade Bahar Güçlü, and Deputy Secretary General of ITKIB Özlem Güneş made presentations regarding the ongoing efforts in the Green Deal process.

Dirk Vantyghem discussed the sustainability strategy of the textile and apparel industry and the expectations from the EU administration, while Bahar Güçlü provided information about the reflections of legal regulations related to the Green Deal on Türkiye.

Deputy Secretary General of ITKIB Özlem Güneş emphasized the significant opportunity that the Green Deal represents for the Turkish apparel industry, providing comprehensive insights into the efforts conducted by IHKIB regarding the Green Deal adaptation process.

Solvay awarded a scholarship to facilitate an educational alliance between the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT) and Fermi High School in Cecina. The initiative unfolded during an event held at Solvay's Rosignano site in Italy, providing a platform for students and faculty. Through this partnership, 200 Fermi High School students participated in STEM* and digital lessons from MIT's Global Teaching Labs project, emphasizing the teaching of scientific disciplines by the American university.

Beyond the scholarship award ceremony, students received a tour of Solvay's factory in Rosignano. The tour highlighted the company's dedication to safety, sustainability, and bridging the gap between academia and industry challenges. The experience illustrated the practical application of academic studies in an industrial context, showcasing Solvay's advanced control procedures, safety protocols, technological innovations, digital transformation efforts, and sustainability measures.

Discussions during the event included key sustainability topics such as water conservation, energy efficiency, waste management, and Solvay's commitment to promoting a balanced work-life culture and diversity within the workplace.

This collaboration aligns with Solvay's global Corporate Citizenship program. Through this program, Solvay supports individuals and communities, channeling efforts to tackle worldwide societal challenges through strategic investments in education, sustainability, and local community initiatives.

*STEM stands for science, technology, engineering and mathematics

ECHA CHEM is a new solution for publishing information on chemicals. The first release, available now, includes information from all REACH registrations.

ECHA’s current Information on chemicals platform, launched in 2016, grew rapidly and contains today information on over 360 000 chemicals. In 2022, ECHA announced that it would create a new system for publishing chemicals data. ECHA CHEM allows the Agency to better handle the growing diversity and quantity of data, while taking advantage of technological advancements.

ECHA maintains the largest chemicals database in the European Union (EU), combining industry-submitted data with information generated in the EU’s regulatory processes. ECHA CHEM is the new solution to share with the public the growing amount of information hosted by the Agency.

In the first version of ECHA CHEM, the information from all the over 100 000 REACH registrations are included that companies have submitted to ECHA. Later this year, the database will be expanded with the redesigned Classification and Labelling Inventory, followed by the first set of regulatory lists.

Refashion, a textile industry’s eco-organisation, has renewed its authority approval until 2028. 6 years during which it will continue to transform the industry in keeping with the objectives set by the French Ministry of Ecological Transition and the French Ministry of the Economy, including the objective to collect 60% of CHF (clothing, household linen and footwear textiles) placed on the market by 2028. This new period is reflected in an ambitious road map and significantly increased investment. Nearly 1.2 billion euros, financed by the marketers, will be spent on transforming the industry during this new period of authority approval.

Determined to achieve the objectives set out in the ambitious specifications set down by the Secretary of State at the Ministry of Ecological Transition, Berangère Couillard, Refashion has worked on a road map with all of its stakeholders involved in the transformation that is underway. Maud Hardy, nominated as the eco-organisation’s CEO in January 2022, started a collaborative working method that will continue throughout this new period to support areas that are key in this transformation. In the next few months, projects will begin and will visibly highlight the progress made in the three phases of a product’s life cycle: production consumption, regeneration.

Production

• Recognising eco-design initiatives through the eco-modulation of the fees paid by marketers (durability, environmental information labelling, integration of recycled materials). For marketers, these initiatives should represent the scheme’s cornerstone. The aim is to involve all stakeholders in reducing the environmental impact of products.

Consumption

• As from 2023, Refashion will spend 5 million euros minimum per year in awareness-raising activities and on information to the general public by supporting an array of local authority initiatives.
• The launch of a repair fund in 2023, in particular to prolong the usage of textiles and footwear products. More than 150 million euros will be invested between 2023 and 2028 to change the habits of the French population to increase repairs by 35% (guideline target by the ADEME 2019).

Regeneration

• Accelerating clothing, household linen and footwear collection, in particular thanks to an operational mix in the sector. Funding traditional sorting operators will remain central, but Refashion will also develop an additional operational system in order to achieve the collection target of 60% of products placed onto the market (versus 34% in 2021).
• 5% of fees paid to Refashion will go towards the redeployment/reuse funds to provide support for reuse within the remit of stakeholders in the Social and Solidarity Economy. In addition to this funding, additional funding arrangements open to all stakeholders will be established. The total budget throughout the authority approval period represents 135 million euros.
• 5% of fees, i.e., 58 million euros in 6 years, will be spent on R&D to help achieve these milestones in order to industrialise the recycling of used CHF: recyclability that is considered during the design stage; automated sorting and recycling.

Der Statusbericht der deutschen Kreislaufwirtschaft 2024 beleuchtet zum dritten Mal nach 2018 und 2020 die Situation der deutschen Kreislaufwirtschaft. Seit der ersten Veröffentlichung im Mai des Jahres 2018 sind fast sechs Jahre vergangen. In diesem Zeitraum haben in Deutschland zwei Ereignisse für eine veränderte Sichtweise auf die Branche geführt: Zunächst die Corona-Krise, die nicht nur die Leistungs- und Anpassungsfähigkeit der Branche, sondern auch ihre Systemrelevanz für die Funktionsfähigkeit des gesellschaftlichen und wirtschaftlichen Lebens unter Beweis gestellt hat. In diesem Zusammenhang ist seit Anfang des Jahres 2020 auch das Ansehen der Abfallentsorgung und vor allem der beteiligten Mitarbeiterinnen und Mitarbeiter in der Bevölkerung deutlich gestiegen.

Der Angriffskrieg auf die Ukraine hat vor Augen geführt, wie stark Deutschland von Energie- und Rohstoffimporten abhängig ist und wie schnell Störungen in den Lieferketten zu Problemen bei der Versorgung mit wichtigen Gütern führen können. Die Abfallwirtschaft kann sowohl durch die Kreislaufführung von Rohstoffen als auch durch die energetische Verwertung wichtige Beiträge zur Reduzierung dieser Abhängigkeiten leisten.

Die Kernthesen des Statusberichtes 2024

• Das gesamte Abfallaufkommen in Deutschland bleibt seit vielen Jahren stabil bei rund 400 Millionen Tonnen, die Abfallmengen aus privaten Haushalten steigen sowohl absolut als auch pro Kopf weiter leicht an
• Die Kreislaufwirtschaft wächst weiter: Mehr Recycling, mehr Beschäftigung und ein Umsatzsprung durch höhere Rohstoffpreise.
• Kreislaufwirtschaft international: Wachsende Märkte für Technik und Güter bei zunehmendem Wettbewerbsdruck für die deutschen Unternehmen
• Kreislaufwirtschaft vernetzt: Bedeutende Beiträge zum Klimaschutz, zur Rohstoffversorgung und zur Energiewende.
• Die Wertschätzung der Branche und ihrer Beschäftigung nimmt zu, gleiches gilt allerdings nicht für die Akzeptanz der für die stoffliche und energetische Verwertung notwendigen Anlagen.
• Kreislaufwirtschaft digital und innovativ: Die Digitalisierung unterstützt Sammlung und Transport, innovative Verfahren verbessern die Recyclingergebnisse, Startups mit neuen Ideen
• Produzenten und Recycler rücken immer enger zusammen, gleichwohl sind für den Wiedereinsatz von Recyclingrohstoffen die Absatzmärkte sicherzustellen
• Brüssel gibt mittlerweile in vielen Feldern der Kreislaufwirtschaft die Zielrichtung und die Geschwindigkeit vor. Das Ziel: Die Transformation von einer linearen Wirtschaft zu einer Circular Economy
• Für den Transformationsprozess zur Circular Economy ist eine funktionierende Kreislaufwirtschaft die wichtigste Basis, gleiches gilt für den Green Deal

Celanese Corporation, a specialty materials and chemical company, and Under Armour, Inc., a company in athletic apparel and footwear, have collaborated to develop a new fiber for performance stretch fabrics called NEOLAST™. The innovative material will offer the apparel industry a high-performing alternative to elastane – an elastic fiber that gives apparel stretch, commonly called spandex. This new alternative could unlock the potential for end users to recycle performance stretch fabrics, a legacy aspect that has yet to be solved in the pursuit of circular manufacturing with respect to stretch fabrics.

NEOLAST™ fibers feature the powerful stretch, durability, comfort, and improved wicking expected from elite performance fabrics yet are also designed to begin addressing sustainability challenges associated with elastane, including recyclability. The fibers are produced using a proprietary solvent-free melt-extrusion process, eliminating potentially hazardous chemicals typically used to create stretch fabrics made with elastane.

NEOLAST™ fibers will be produced using recyclable elastoester polymers. As end users transition to a more circular economy, Celanese and Under Armour are exploring the potential of the fibers to improve the compatibility of stretch fabrics with future recycling systems and infrastructure.

In addition to the sustainability benefits, the new NEOLAST™ fibers deliver increased production precision, allowing spinners to dial power-stretch levels up or down and engineer fibers to meet a broader array of fabric specifications.