From the Sector

Comber machines from Trützschler are already trusted by customers across the textiles industry and around the globe. The TCO 21 is the latest addition to their portfolio and was built to boost productivity,  ensure quality and support increased automation.

High productivity and raw material savings
One of the key benefits of the TCO 21 is its advanced processing speed. This next-generation combing machine is able to produce at a rate of up to 600 nips per minute. the TCO 21 can also be coordinated with Trützschler’s JUMBO CANS (Ø 1.200 mm). They not only reduce yarn defects due to fewer piecings which leads to quality improvements, but also offer a higher efficiency because of their larger dimensions. This, for example, has positive effects on the number of necessary cans and can transports – and results in lower personnel costs.

Excellent yarn quality
The TCO 21 comes with COUNT MONITORING as standard. This feature makes it possible for the machine operator to define limits for count variations via an easy-to-use display. Trützschler’s DISC MONITOR system of sensors measures the count continuously, and the machine alerts the operator and switches off if the limit is exceeded. In addition, the COUNT MONITORING function also includes spectrogram analysis.

Customers can further strengthen their focus on quality by choosing to add the COUNT CONTROL function to the TCO 21. It is managed via the same easy-to-use display, and offers automatic sliver count measurement, as well as spectrogram analysis. It also automatically regulates the main draft during production to balance count variations and ensure the desired sliver count. This feature is particularly attractive for customers who manufacture blends of cotton and synthetic, as it can also be used to avoid variations in the overall yarn composition.

Automatic optimization
The TCO 21 joins the TCO 12 from Trützschler as an combing machine that offers automatic PIECING OPTIMIZER technology, and that finds the right piecing setting without a single laboratory test, because of two functions: First by adjusting the piecing time in the combing cycle (timing function). Whereas the resetting of the detaching point (piecing time) is usually a very time-consuming task, it now takes only a few minutes and is performed automatically at a push on a button. Second the customer is helped to select specific detaching curve types (curve function) for their unique requirements.

Easy operation
The TCO 21 is simple to operate and maintain. The SMART TOUCH display is fast and intuitive, and a Radio-Frequency Identification (RFID) sensor quickly identifies each user and adapts the information on the display to their individual needs. The multi-colored T-LED display provides visual indications of the machine’s status or quality parameters over large distances which enables the operator recognizing them at a glance in the entire spinning mill. The TCO 21 is built with original Trützschler electronics that ensure high performance and durability: Their intelligent cooling system, that has already proven itself in the draw frame TD 10, contributes to a longer service life by reducing the operating temperature of electronic power components. Even if components have to be replaced at some point, the customer can keep their spare parts inventory small, because they can switch also electronics spare parts flexibly between different machine types, e.g. cards and draw frames. The option to add an automatic greasing function completes the easy operation of the TCO 21.

ISKO’s 2023 Collection Vol. 1 is designed to meet the varied needs of today’s consumer by providing fashion, comfort, versatility and responsibility in each of its innovative fabrics. The entire collection is “engineered for nature” using ISKO’s recently launched R-TWO™50+ technology – a process which creates high-quality denim that is less harmful to the natural world.

R-TWO™50+ is the driving force behind ISKO’s efforts to reduce the industry’s impact on the planet. The fabrics are made with a minimum of 50% pre- and post-consumer recycled blend that is entirely Global Recycled Standard (GRS) certified. This results in less use of natural resources and a reduced carbon and water footprint of up to 45% and 65% respectively.

ISKO has also incorporated hemp into the collection as a sustainably viable alternative to cotton. Hemp requires much less water, no pesticides and grows quickly in almost any type of soil. New spinning techniques give the fiber a softer hand feel and make hemp a genuinely enticing option to cotton.

2023 Collection Vol. 1 includes ISKO Blue Skin™, Jeggings™, ISKO™ Rigid, ISKO Rigidflex™, ISKO EFD™, Summer Colors, Catwalk, ISKO Reform™, ISKO™ Black, ISKO™ Comfort, ISKO Pop™ – and five macro trends (Denim Nation, New Origin, Isko Reborn, Isko Motion, Chill Zone). These trends incorporate some of ISKO’s key denim technologies to create a versatile collection that complements any style, vibe and mood.

ISKO Reform™, ISKO Blue Skin™ and Jeggings™ are the groups used to create fabrics that are trans-seasonal and one-size-fits-all – subscribing to a philosophy of inclusivity that is valued by Gen Z.

The collection also gives prominence to color groups. ISKO™ Black delivers various shades of black with different elasticity and aspect options. This part of the collection fulfils the perennial need for this timeless color. ISKO EFD™, or ‘Eco For Dye’, is a sustainable approach to producing ecru fabric. This technology shortens the production process and saves on water usage. The result is an ecru-colored base that can be used as is for a natural look or can also be dyed to any color.

New this season are the Summer Colors and Catwalk groups. Summer Colors is inspired by an eclectic mix of influences including natural earth tones, workwear looks or bright colors with authentic, open-end denim constructions. Catwalk is a bold and bright addition to the collection that offers on-trend styles in ISKO finishes including ISKO Urban Jeather™, Pearl Coat and Flashy Finish.

To ensure that pets are also well equipped in terms of product safety, quality and durability of their cuddly blankets, cushions or favorite toys, the textile testing service provider Hohenstein has established its quality label for tested pet supplies. After all, the number of pets in private households is growing every year, and for many of us, our animal roommates count as full members of the family and are cared for accordingly.

The label is explicitly designed for textile products such as blankets or pillows for sleeping areas, dog clothing, mats or even horse blankets. It provides consumers with clear product information on product safety, quality and durability, and also offers home/pets and their owners security against unwanted residues of chemical substances. Beyond its standard physical tests, the quality label can be flexibly extended: depending on the intended use, product properties such as chew resistance, scratch resistance, outdoor suitability, water repellence, waterproofness or air permeability play a major role in ensuring that pets feel completely comfortable.

The Hohenstein quality label Tested Pet Supply is an independent proof of quality and joins the ranks of the existing Hohenstein quality labels.

Maruti Printing transformed its business as the first printer in India to adopt the latest LED-UV curing technology from AMS Spectral UV, a Baldwin Technology Company. The hybrid system, which includes traditional UV modules, has been in production for nearly two years and has significantly expanded the offset printer’s capabilities for its customers, including adding the ability to print on all types of plastic substrates.

Not only does Maruti have the distinction of being an LED-UV trailblazer in India, but it also is first in the market to upgrade a high-speed, high-performance Heidelberg Speed Master 72F+L six-color printer with coating tower—which prints up to 15,000 sheets per hour—with AMS Spectral UV’s high-power AMS XP9-I Series LED-UV and P3 Smart UV curing modules.

Established in 1986 and headquartered in Ahmedabad, Gujarat, Maruti serves customers throughout India, providing offset printing of scratch cards, banners, booklets, brochures, calendars, danglers, pamphlets, posters, stickers and envelopes.

In January 2020, Maruti took delivery of two AMS XP9-I Series LED-UV modules to cure colors in the interdecks. The modules are ideal for the highest-speed curing situations that require consistent peak intensity to the substrate, which is the case for Maruti’s offset printing standard of perfection with every cure.

To cure ink, as well as a growing variety of LED coatings, Baldwin’s AMS Spectral UV modules can be located after print units, or in the press delivery after the coater. When inks and coatings are cured with LED-UV, they become instantly dry via photopolymerization, allowing for printing on any substrate, including plastics and metallized stocks. Plus, work can be immediately finished and sent to the bindery once it comes off the press, without the need for heat, spray powder or drying time.

In addition, Maruti took delivery of two P3 Smart UV curing modules for installation at the end of the press to cure any type of UV coating and expand the company’s scope of coating compatibility to general UV coatings in order to offer its customers the widest range of UV printed choices in the Indian market.

The P3 Smart UV housings are completely liquid-cooled to ensure safe, consistent performance and increased uptime, and modules feature a universal design, so that any unit can fit any print unit location. P3 modules can be changed, inspected and cleaned quickly and easily, without tools, and lamps slide and lock into place smoothly and securely.

The durability of the equipment and its chipset was a critical deciding factor in India’s climate. The latest-generation power-and-control cabinets are dust- and moisture-resistant, allowing them to withstand extreme heat and humidity, as well as powder and airborne contaminants, making the equipment ideal for operation in stressful conditions anywhere in the world. AMS Spectral UV’s latest generation of LED chips, designed for the highest-intensity curing applications, enable the curing of LED inks and coatings at record-setting speeds. They are built with resilient components, and the semi-conductor components are sealed, which allows the chips to work in a variety of rugged environments. Additionally, integrated circuits incorporated into the design electronically protect the LEDs and the entire system.

• Marchi & Fildi Group presents the selection of metalloplastic yarns with GRS certification of its Gleaming line, coming from 100% post-consumer recycled polyester

With the goal to expand the offer of yarns coming from recycled raw materials for a textile more attentive to the consumption of resources, the MFT division of the Marchi & Fildi Group completes the range of metalloplastic yarns of its Gleaming collection with the insertion of 100% recycled polyester yarns coming from post-consumer material and with the GRS (Global Recycle Standard) certification.
Starting from recycled polyester with traceable origin, in compliance with environmental and social criteria extended to all the phases of the supply chain, metalloplastic yarns are obtained with the same esthetic features and performance, compared to similar products based on virgin raw materials.

“Thanks to our commitment in the research of materials, we are able to propose metalloplastic yarns produced with 100% recycled material; the film used for the production of flat yarns, too, is in recycled polyester, with a quality level that is suitable for cutting – the Company explains -. Till now it was possible to find in the market only metalloplastic yarns with not recycled polyester flat yarn, twisted with certified fibers. This represents an important step forward to implement a circular economy possibility for this kind of products too”.

The Gleaming yarns GRS certified can be supplied in gold and silver, colors and transparent, in various counts, widths and types; they are suitable for use in flat and circular knitting, weaving, hosiery and as a component in fancy yarns.

The Gleaming line, with a wide selection of yarns in stock service, represents a completion of the offer of the Marchi & Fildi Group. The Gleaming yarns are offered in different thicknesses, widths and types with both metallized and transparent, iridescent, refracting and phosphorescent effects. The collection also includes items with special features of resistance to chemical and dyeing treatments. The Gleaming metalloplastic yarns find application in the world of fashion and furniture, for creative and fancy yarns and fabrics, accessories and decorations. Products with refractive features are also used in technical items like uniforms and workwear, sport garments and accessories, external ribbons and labels.

Gina Tricot releases its first collection that has been produced with We aRe SpinDye. The collection is part of Gina Tricot's innovation program Gina Lab. and consists of a coat, shirt, trousers and two bags colored with We aRe SpinDye's method.

With the collaboration, Gina Tricot continues to focus on sustainability, now with the coloring process at the center. Of all the resources that arise during the entire lifespan of a garment - from the production of raw materials, to recycling, 80% is used during the production phase itself. To maximize the effects of the sustainability changeover, an increased focus is required on the entire production process and in particular on the most resource-intensive of them all: the dyeing.

One of Gina Tricot's focus is to explore new methods and technologies in sustainability, which makes the collaboration with We aRe Spin Dye feel just right for us. Together we get a product with more durable and circular fibers, in addition with a more sustainable textile production with a focus on minimal water use. We are extremely proud of this collaboration. says Emma Garrote, Global Production & Sustainability Manager at Gina Tricot.

Gina Tricot is a shining example of an agile organization with short decision-making processes. They have managed to enthuse both the design and production department. It has been crucial to reach the launch of this collection that takes place today, says Andreas Andrén, CEO of We aRe SpinDye®.

Gina Tricot
Gina Tricot is a Swedish fashion brand that offers fashion to women in over 30 countries. Today, Gina Tricot has over 160 stores around Sweden, Norway, Denmark and Finland, as well as e-commerce throughout Europe. With around 1,900 employees, 98% of these are girls. For Gina Tricot, it is important to build pride from the inside out, we are a company that chooses to invest in and highlight women.

We aRe Spin Dye
The company is a Swedish cleantech company that provides and offers a process and platform for production and quality control that enables players in the fashion and clothing industry to significantly reduce their environmental impact. The company's business concept is to establish a new, sustainable and transparent standard for dyeing synthetic textiles in the fashion and apparel industry in a simple and user-friendly way.

Indorama Ventures Public Company Limited issued a THB 10 billion triple-tranche Sustainability-Linked Bond, showcasing the company’s long-standing commitment to sustainable growth. It is the largest SLB issued in Thailand and the first offered to both institutions and high-net-worth investors.

The bond is part of IVL’s financing strategy across a range of instruments linked to the company’s sustainability targets. It is aligned with internationally accepted standards including International Capital Markets Association’s (ICMA) Sustainability-Linked Bond Principles and the Loan Market Association’s (LMA) Sustainability Linked Loan Principles.

The SLB is linked to IVL’s performance of reducing GHG emissions intensity by 10% by 2025 (from a 2020 base), increasing recycling of PET bale input to 750,000 tons per year by 2025, and achieving 25% renewable electricity consumption in 2030.

The triple-tranche structure includes 5-, 7-, and 10.5-year tenors, offering coupons of 2.48%, 3.00% and 3.60% per year respectively, targeting asset managers, commercial banks, insurance companies, cooperatives and high-net-worth individuals. With the orderbook peaking at over THB 17.8 billion due to strong interest in the sustainability-linked instrument, oversubscription was around 3x over the planned issuance amount of THB 6 billion with a green shoe option of THB 4 billion. In view of the strong orderbook from the investors, the company decided to exercise the green shoe option and increased the issuance to THB 10 billion, setting a new benchmark as the largest SLB transaction in Thailand. IVL appointed Bangkok Bank, Kasikorn Bank, Krungthai Bank, Siam Commercial Bank, and The Hongkong and Shanghai Banking Corporation Limited, Bangkok Branch as arrangers and bookrunners for the transaction.

On 23 September 2021, the bond was assigned an AA- rating and a “stable” outlook by TRIS Rating following a strong recovery of petrochemicals and derivatives and IVL’s growing profitability.

Under the terms, all tranches must purchase Energy Attribute Certificates (EAC) or voluntary carbon offsets in the event of failure to meet the sustainability performance targets (SPT). The testing dates for tenors with a maturity of 5 and 7 years are 31 December 2025, and 31 December 2030 for the 10.5-year tenor. SPT performance will be independently verified upon the testing dates.Proceeds for the issuance will be used to finance IVL’s corporate working capital and refinance existing debt.

In recent years, IVL secured loans linked to improvements in the company’s sustainability performance as a global leader in environmental, social and governance (ESG) integration. These included Thailand’s first Green Loan of USD 200 million and EUR 200 million from Japan’s Mizuho Bank, Thailand’s first cross-border Sustainability-Linked Ninja Loan worth USD 225 million from 16 institutions in Japan and a Blue Loan of USD 300 million arranged by International Finance Corporation and funded by Asian Development Bank and DEG.

• Results of experiments conducted by the University of California’s prestigious Scripps Institution of Oceanography in San Diego provide further scientific proof that LENZING™ fibers offer an effective substitute to synthetic fibers that are part of the pressing problem of plastic pollution in our oceans.

Lenzing/San Diego – The Lenzing Group, a world-leading provider of wood-based specialty fibers, has received further scientific proof of the biodegradability of its fibers. In a study published in October 2021 , scientists from the prestigious academic research institute Scripps Institution of Oceanography (SIO) at the University of California, San Diego confirmed that wood-based cellulosic fibers biodegrade in the ocean within a short period of time at the end of their life cycle, making them a better alternative to fossil-based fibers. The research was the result of an independent project trying to understand the “end-of-life” scenarios for textiles and nonwovens discarded in the environment.

SIO has a global reputation for being one of the oldest, largest and most important marine research centers worldwide. In this study, SIO compared the degradation processes of nonwovens made from fossil-based synthetic materials such as polyester with those of cellulosic materials such as Lenzing’s wood-based lyocell, modal and viscose fibers in specific scenarios – under various real oceanic conditions and controlled aquaria conditions. The results of these experiments are striking: while wood-based cellulosic fibers fully biodegraded within 30 days, the fossil-based fibers tested were practically unchanged after more than 200 days.

The biodegradability of LENZING™ fibers was also tested in the laboratory of Organic Waste Systems (OWS) in Belgium – one of the world's leading companies in biodegradability and compostability testing – which showed data confirmed by those found with the real-life measurements at Scripps. The OWS assessment was conducted in accordance with applicable international standards and reflects relevant natural and artificial conditions in which biodegradation can occur. Certificates from the certification organization TÜV Austria show that LENZING™ fibers rapidly biodegrade in all test environments (soil, industrial composting, home composting, fresh water and marine water) within the time frames set by the applicable standards.

Lenzing also welcomes the EU’s targeted measures to combat plastic waste in general, such as those relating to the single-use plastic directive (EU) 2019/9043. In its recently adopted guidelines for implementing the directive, the EU Commission stipulates the specific products that fall under this category, which is a well-needed effort to provide clarity to the EU member states for their joint campaign against environmental pollution from plastic waste. Lenzing’s wood-based, biodegradable cellulosic fibers can be part of a sustainable and innovative solution to this man-made problem that will continue to grow. As of July 2021, the single-use plastic directive sets out standardized labelling requirements for certain products, either on packaging or on the products themselves, which include plastic-based feminine hygiene products and wet wipes for body care or household use. This is a start to tackle the problem: educate the consumer and offer alternative materials with better circularity.

On 21st October the Managing Director of Officina+39 Andrea Venier has joined a panel discussion in the prestigious arena of the Kingpins24 Digital Show. He contributed to the discussion with his and Officina+39’s point of view on “Water Conservation”, together with Emrah Özkorkmaz from Bregla and Taimur Malik from Stylers International, with Edward Hertzman from Sourcing Journal & Rivet as moderator.

Water crisis remains one of the top issues for humanity and 90% of the world's natural disasters are related to water. Officina+39 has been working hard to rethink the way water is used throughout the denim processes: Andrea's contribution emphasized the company’s practical and consolidated experience in this field, as in recent years their main objective has been to drastically reduce water use in line with UN SDG6.

Andrea pointed out how “fashion industry is still currently deeply rooted in a linear approach: make, use, dispose.” Accordingly to Andrea and Officina+39, the fashion world is becoming aware of this reality and is trying to reinvent itself in order to decrease the use of this precious resource and its negative impacts but there is still work to do in order to redesign a better sustainable model, where circularity should represent the new sustainability: circularity not only when it comes to the materials, but also to water.

In the textile industry water is used as the vehicle for colors and chemical auxiliaries but luckily today many technologies aim at significantly reducing water consumption. Officina+39 is really focused on this target: Andrea explained that “Officina+39 has developed the AQUALESS MISSION, a process suitable for conventional machines that leads to a 75% reduction of the water typically used in denim and garment laundry processes, using a waterless technology and saving costs for producers.”

Despite the start-up cost of investing in the development of sustainable technologies may discourage some in the industry, it is about time to realize that these actions cannot be delayed and that we will increasingly hear about water scarcity, water stress and water risk.

Andrea stated: “It is necessary to develop water management strategies and systems in any company: today there is ISO 14000 related to environmental management, but I believe that governments, brands and related organisations should think about an ISO related just to water management. In this way, every company can understand how much value can be generated in the medium-term and how much money could be saved by investing in this kind of technologies. To create new standards related to water management, we must change the approach.”

For its FW 22/23 collection, ECOSENSOR™ by Asahi Kasei Advance presents a high-tech fabric collection, which implements a new generation of values, with the aim of keeping nature, body and mind in harmony.

The whole collection is focused on advanced technology and environmental responsibility. Thanks to ECOSENSOR™ by Asahi Kasei Advance’s unique value-chain based on recycling technology, most part of its yarns are certified by the renowned GRS (Global Recycled Standard). Even the dyeing and finishing phases - key moments for  performance wear - have been certified by international labels such as bluesign® and OEKO-TEX® Standard 100.

The collection is composed of 7 outerwear fabric, 22 sportswear fabrics and 7 innerwear fabrics.

Among the compositions of the fabrics, dominant are the recycled polyamide (58%) and polyester (39%) yarns. The stretch component present in 22 articles of the collection is based on ROICA™ EF by Asahi Kasei - the sustainable recycled stretch yarn made from pre-consumer waste. In addition, 8 fabrics of the FW22/23 collection are made of Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei - the high-tech yarn born from the transformation of cotton linters through a fully circular, transparent and traceable process with an amazing precious hand, optimal moisture management characteristics,  whose end of life guarantees its biodegradability and it also carries GRS certification.