From the Sector

Bemberg™ gears up for Première Vision - February 11th-13th, Paris, France; with a great deal of novelties and a key statement on sustainability: Let’s Make it Circular! That’s why the Japanese brand of regenerated cellulose fibers joins the fair with two booths, one in the yarn-focused sector – Hall 6 C52 6D53 – the other one in the Smart Creation area, the curated district showcasing cutting-edge sustainable innovation for the textile and fashion business. Hall3 S14.

“We simply could not miss out on the Smart Creation Area as sustainability is the founding pillar of our company,” says SHUNSUKE SATO, sales manager of Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei. “Indeed, the smart fiber is made from a cotton linter which is pre-consumer material, a natural derived source, that doesn’t deplete forestry resources. The strategy beyond our double presence is to highlight our deep commitment to responsible innovation to a larger target of professionals.”

Let’s take it circular! is the motto at the Smart Creation booth. The lifespan of Bemberg™’s regenerated cellulose fiber derived from cotton is fully circular: from the source to manufacturing. The whole sustainable closed-loop process is supported by the LCA study, signed by ICEA and validated by Paolo Masoni. Recyclability is granted by the Global Recycle Standard - GRS certification by the renown Textile Exchange. An influential guarantee that involves the whole production process and supply chain behind the company’s smart yarns. Bemberg™ yarns are entirely biodegradable and ecotoxicity-free – meaning that at the end of their life circle they break down into the environment leaving no trace in terms of toxic substances as attested by the Innovhub-SSI report.

On show at Première Vision some of the most recent collaborations with GRS-certified partners such as FIVEOL, SMI TESSUTI, TESSITURA UBOLDI, INFINITY, SIDONIOS, MATIAS & ARAUJO, TINTEX, IPEKER, EKOTEN, for fashion fabrics as well as PEZZETTI and BRUNELLO & G.CRESPI from lining partners.

The first Bemberg™ partner to present a commercial collection enriched by Velutine™ Evo is the Portuguese Matias & Araújo. With an innovative spirit, dynamism and a determined entrepreneurial spirit, the company is a leading knitwear producer for the textile industry.

In the Hall 6 Bemberg™ displays key commercial items developed by premium brands such as CAALO that is making its mark in the outerwear market with its Sustainably produced Functional-Luxury proposal. For SS20, CAALO utilized Bemberg™ lining because of the sustainability properties and it's unique colour.

CAALO looks to utilize as much eco-friendly and sustainable materials as possible without compromising on design or quality. This Bemberg™ lining was a perfect fit.

In the AZL Workgroup "High-Performance SMC", a project was developed in cooperation with M-Base, the IKV and the AZL partner network for the efficient and standardized provision of engineering data for SMC. Within the scope of the project, companies can participate in the definition of the required characteristic material data, the guidelines for the production of test specimens and the test specifications.
Sheet Moulding Compounds (SMC) are used in various application areas such as vehicles, electronics, construction and infrastructure.

Driven by the requirements to reduce the production costs of lightweight components, a new generation of SMC components with high mechanical properties is of highest relevance. SMC offers enormous potential to realize structural components with good lightweight characteristics at significantly reduced costs compared to conventional continuous fiber-reinforced components.
In order to further establish SMC in broad industrial applications companies participating within the AZL Workgroup recognized the value of a data bank for data harmonization of SMC to provide the possibility of easily finding the right material with its characteristics for the needed specific requirements.

“The segment of SMC is with 250,000 tons production per year the largest composites market in Europe. I am very pleased that we start now with the project of data harmonization along the complete value chain. The goal is to have a similar data base as already established by Campus® for thermoplastics and thermoplastic composites. Only with a reliable set data we can convince the engineering experts to use SMC in a larger variety of applications,” says Dr. Michael Effing, Chairman of the Board of AVK and Composites Germany.

As of right now a databank for engineered thermoplastic materials (by Campus®) already exists and is offering an immense value.
Under the lead of M-Base, Dr. CEO Erwin Baur who has successfully established the CAMPUS database, the AZL, IKV and companies along the value chain of long fibre reinforced SMC initiated to build a CAMPUS-compatible data structure and material characterization methodology during the High-Performance SMC Workgroup Meetings.

All the glamour of fur meets the technology of responsible ISKO™ denim, for a first-of-its-kind concept that provides fashionable and conscious alternatives to furs and other synthetic imitations.

Over the years, ISKO has set out on a journey of innovative firsts consistently providing what the market had been missing. ISKO Wild™, the latest achievement of this long-lasting enterprise and the first-in-the-world denim fur program, is set to impress the industry and revolutionize fashion.

Resulting from ISKO’s Responsible Innovation™ approach based on creativity, competence, and citizenship, ISKO Wild™ reflects the company’s commitment to making both the world and the industry better. This technology does not harm animals nor does it destroy their home. Unlike other imitation furs, it does not release micro plastics into the environment.

With the claim to inspire and delight the fashion world, stakes are high but the concept is a real hit for it represents the perfect combination of glamorous fashion and conscious responsibility.
Despite attempts of imitations ISKO Wild™ is a one-of-a-kind concept in the industry. Available in both Indigo and RFD, featuring cotton and cotton wool blends, this product stands out from a quality, look and performance standpoint.

The Oerlikon Nonwoven experts will be presenting efficient solutions and comprehensive technology know-how for challenging filtration tasks to an international trade audience at the FiltXPO 2020 in Chicago, USA (Stand # 420), taking place between February 26 and 28.

Meltblown technology is one of the most efficient methods for producing very fine and highly-separating filter media made from manmade fibers. New, unique and highly-sophisticated filter media are easy to manufacture thanks to Oerlikon Nonwoven’s optimized meltblown technology. This process is characterized by its constant melt pressure distribution and consistent dwell time across the entire width of the spinning beam, Furthermore, the novel guidance and distribution of the process air outside the coathanger distributor offered by the Oerlikon Nonwoven technology prevents so-called hotspots, which overall ensures particularly homogeneous nonwoven properties and basis weights even in the case of delicate raw materials.

The Oerlikon Nonwoven charging unit stands out against other concepts currently available on the market. Users can freely choose from a large number of variation possibilities and set the optimum charging method depending on the filter application, allowing the Oerlikon Nonwoven charging unit to also be used for the manufacture of EPA- and HEPA-class filter media.

The new forming section ensures improved nonwoven formation evenness across the entire width, even in the case of high spinning speeds, special polymers and polymer combinations. In addition to this, the newly-designed system also ensures that nonwovens only require minimal edge trimming at the end of the production process. The newly-developed mixedfiber technology enables the combining of various filament cross-sections and polymers, in order to set ideal filtering and pleating performances, for example.

Market leader Oerlikon Neumag has its finger firmly on the pulse of their customers with the new Color Pop Compacting unit (CPC-T) for the BCF S8 carpet yarn plant, which is now available for the Polyamide 6 process. The new solution, which was on show from 10-13 January 2020 at the Domotex 2020 in Hannover, attracted great interest from many trade visitors.

Following the trend for multicolored carpets, BCF S8 sets new standards in regards to color separation. The plant, launched as a tricolor solution at last year’s ITMA in Barcelona, makes anything possible – from mélange to strongly separated. It promises carpet yarn producers even more flexible color mixing variants for product differentiation. The core component in this process, the Color Pop Compacting unit (CPC-T), offers more than 200,000 different color shades from three colors. The innovation, which has been filed for patent, is available for polypropylene and polyester polymers as well as for the polyamide 6 process.

Polyester, recycling polyester and fine titers are on trend
During numerous conversations with customers, Martin Rademacher, Head of Sales Oerlikon Neumag, observed a noticeable trend for polyester in the carpet industry even outside the USA. Sustainable solutions are equally sought after: “Our customers increasingly demand plants that can process recycled polyester,” explains Martin Rademacher.

The Manmade Fibers segment presented an additional solution by Oerlikon Barmag for polyester applications that need fine single filament titers from 0.5 dpf and high filament counts: Puffy, soft polyester filament yarns with BCF-similiar properties are produced on the basis of a POY and texturing process. Core components of the processes are the POY take-up unit WINGS HD as well as the new texturing machine eAFK Big-V.

• New composite e-mobility application gains momentum
• Strengthening regional footprint in North America
• Potential for further extensions

Following the production of first prototypes of battery enclosures for a Chinese automotive manufacturer in 2018, SGL Carbon has now received a contract from a North-American automaker for high-volume serial production of carbon and glass fiber-based composite top and bottom layers for battery enclosures. The serial production of the components will start end of 2020. The carbon fibers and fabrics as well as the assembled components come from SGL Carbon’s fully integrated value chain. On top of this order, there is the potential for more extensions with further substantial volumes for the shared platform business of the manufacturer.

In addition, SGL Carbon has won a smaller volume contract from a European sports car manufacturer to serially produce bottom layers made of composite as of mid-2020. The company is additionally in talks with further automakers to develop and manufacture battery enclosure solutions for their e-car platforms.

“Driven by the increasing need for e-cars worldwide and thus for new flexible chassis platforms, our composite battery enclosures are a very promising new application in our product portfolio. The recent contract wins show that our approach of developing custom-made solutions based on our integrated value chain offers an excellent value proposition”, says Sebastian Grasser, Head of Automotive Segment.

SGL Carbon and Solvay collaborate to develop highly-competitive advanced carbon fiber composites for aerospace primary structures

SGL Carbon and Solvay have entered into a joint development agreement (JDA) to bring to market the first composite materials based on large-tow intermediate modulus (IM) carbon fiber. These materials, which address the need to reduce costs and CO2 emissions, and improve the production process and fuel efficiency of next-generation commercial aircraft, will be based on SGL Carbon’s large-tow IM carbon fiber and Solvay’s primary structure resin systems.

The agreement encompasses both thermoset and thermoplastic composite technologies. It builds on Solvay’s leadership in supplying advanced materials to the aerospace industry and SGL Carbon’s expertise in high-volume carbon fiber manufacturing.

“For Solvay, this is an opportunity to lead the aerospace adoption of a composite material based on 50K IM carbon fiber. This is a highly competitive value proposition that brings more affordable high-performance solutions to our customers. We see this as the first step in a long-term partnership,” said Augusto Di Donfrancesco, member of Solvay’s executive committee.

“By combining SGL’s carbon fiber expertise in our newly developed, unique 50K IM fiber with Solvay’s resin formulation and aerospace market expertise, both partners are aiming to develop an advanced aerospace material system. This alliance supports our strategic direction and accelerates our growth in the attractive aerospace market,” said Dr. Michael Majerus, spokesman of the management board of SGL Carbon.

Composite materials for aerospace applications represent a multi-billion-dollar market that is expected to grow strongly in the coming decade. Solvay and SGL Carbon are uniquely positioned to develop solutions to address the needs of this market.

Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KG will be providing information on its extensive range of coating and finishing technologies for the production of nonwovens and technical textiles at the forthcoming Techtextil India exhibition.

“India is already a very important market for Monforts and there are exciting prospects ahead for Indian manufacturers of technical textiles, who are well positioned to capitalise on growth opportunities,” says Monforts Head of Denim Hans Wroblowski, who will be at the Monforts stand in Hall 4, booth C52 at the show. “India has one of the largest working-age populations in the world and a complete textile value chain for both natural and synthetic fibres.”

In addition, he adds, India’s government, through its Ministry of Textiles, has been actively promoting the growth of technical textiles through various programmes based on investment promotion, subsidies, the creation of infrastructure and the stimulation of consumption.

As a result, India’s Ministry of Textiles is forecasting that the growth of technical textiles in the country will be over 18% annually in the next few years, from a value of US$16.6 billion in 2018 to US$28.7 billion in 2021.

Value addition

High value-added technical products such as wide-width digital printing substrates, carbon fabrics for high-performance composites, filter media, flame retardant barrier fabrics and heavy-duty membranes are now being coated on Monforts texCoat ranges and finished with the company’s industry-leading Montex stenters.

“Since we acquired the technology that our coating units are based on in 2015, we have made a lot of refinements,” says Hans. “All of these developments are reflected in higher coating accuracy and the resulting quality of the treated fabrics. At the same time, our latest multi-functional coating heads offer an unprecedented range of options, with a wide range of modules available.”

The texCoat user interface is now equipped with the unique Monforts visualisation system and the magnetic doctor blade has greater power reserves. Options include a carbon fibre-reinforced composite coating drum with a more scratch-resistant surface and maximum rigidity and remote control which simplifies exact adjustment for the operator.

Montex stenters in special executions are meanwhile ideal for the drying and finishing of both technical woven fabrics and nonwovens and characterised by high stretching devices in both length and width.

“The European-built Montex range of stenters has earned its leading position in the technical textiles market due to the overall robustness, reliability and economy of these machines,” Hans concludes. “Whatever the intended end-product – and we continue to discover potentially new areas in which technical textiles can be utilised all the time – we have the machine specification and know-how to turn ideas into reality. In India we also benefit from the strong sales and service support of A.T.E. Enterprises.”

Texchtextil India takes place alongside World of Composites at the Bombay Exhibition Centre in Mumbai from November 20-22.

Chomarat Group, expert in composite reinforcements for the marine market developed a high performing C-PLYTM reinforcement for the hull and deck of Arcona 435 and 465. Both cruiser-racer are a unique combination of comfort onboard and performances, for fast family cruising and high-level races thanks to their specific design, and the use of C-PLY™. The carbon NCF reinforcement allows structural design benefits, premium surface quality and overall parts cost saving.

“With 45 years of expertise, Chomarat is a pioneer in developing solutions to achieve weight reduction, improved surface appearance and stronger structure.

C-PLY™ makes it possible to meet these specifications, while ensuring stable quality and cost-effectiveness” explains Vincent Cholvy, Marine market Manager at Chomarat.

THE CUTTING-EDGE TECHNOLOGY FOR SERIAL PRODUCTION OF CARBON BOATS
A study was led to determine the optimal construction to develop a high performing C-PLY™ range for a better permeability in infusion process. The result is a carbon NCF that achieves high mechanical performances, multi resins compatibility and cost efficiency. “Chomarat is the best choice for supplying the product our factory prefers to work with: stable quality and cost effectiveness are the key benefits” explains Nicolas Broberg, Managing Director Arcona Yacht.

Infusion technology for hull and deck with up to 70% level of carbon in the laminate gives the greatest possible strength.

The current generation of PFAFF shoe post-bed machines, that is viewed in the industry as the mother of all shoe machines, is the most frequently copied industrial shoe post-bed machine. Being copied means that PFAFF have done a lot on the machine that is good. However, it also means that the German machinery supplier always have to be one step ahead with regard to technology and that bit better with regard to quality. This is what the market expects, this is what the customer expects from PFAFF. The new “Programmable thread tension” is the latest feature of the electronic shoe post-bed series PFAFF 1571/1574/1591. The key benefit of “programmable thread tension” is that suitable thread tensions can be applied for different material thicknesses and/or for different seam sequences (as these can be programmed on electronic machines). The tensions can be accessed and/or set via a knee switch or stitch counting. Manual setting of the thread tension, as is common with current shoe machines, is no longer necessary with the programmed thread tension. This increases the quality and significantly improves the process reliability. “Programmable thread tension” is initially available as an option on the electronic machines 1571/1591.