From the Sector

From April 24 to 26, the Karachi Expo Center hosts a new edition of Igatex, Pakistan’s leading textile‑industry trade fair. At a decisive moment for the region’s manufacturing sector, Jeanologia presents its proposal for technological integration to drive modernization through automation, sustainability, and productivity.

With nearly two decades of presence in Pakistan, Jeanologia has helped transform the local production landscape by promoting competitive models based on cutting‑edge technologies such as laser, ozone, e‑Flow, and water‑recycling systems like H2Zero. Designed to be accessible to both small workshops and large corporations, these solutions have enabled more sustainable and efficient denim production—reducing water consumption by up to 85%, minimizing chemical use, and ensuring safer processes for workers.

At this year’s Igatex, Jeanologia is highlighting the potential of its laser technology to automate processes and optimize marking quality and speed—critical factors for boosting productivity and lowering cost per garment. It will unveil Compact Super, the fastest laser machine on the market, as part of its portfolio of high‑productivity solutions built on intelligence, speed, and precision—elements essential for the future of the textile sector, especially denim.

All these innovations converge in the Laundry 5.Zero model, the first denim‑finishing plant to guarantee zero pollution. Already operational in Pakistan, this solution represents the evolution from traditional factories to fully digital, scalable production systems with a neutral cost balance.

Pakistan: a strategic hub in the new global manufacturing map
With 8.5% of its GDP tied to textiles, Pakistan has established itself as a key node in the new global manufacturing map. Its favorable cost structure and robust production facilities make it a strategic destination for global textile operators. Jeanologia works closely with local mills, brands, and exporters to accelerate this transformation and reinforce the country’s leadership in the sustainable denim era.

With over 35% of the world’s five billion annual jeans produced using its technologies, the Spanish company consolidates its position as a strategic partner for brands, manufacturers, and exporters worldwide reaffirming its mission to transform the textile industry through innovation and sustainability.

By participating in Igatex 2025, Jeanologia underscores that the future of textile manufacturing lies in digitalization, automation, and sustainability—recognizing Pakistan as a pivotal hub in this transformative process.

EIM (Environmental Impact Measuring), the leading global platform for measuring the environmental impact of garment finishing—trusted by the world's top brands and textile production centers—presents the "Innovations and Challenges in Denim Finishing: 2024 Report." This pioneering report provides an analysis based on accurate, objective data from over 115,000 denim finishing processes collected through the EIM platform, setting new benchmarks for sustainability in the industry.

The report reveals that 63% of the analyzed processes are already classified as low environmental impact, reflecting a positive shift toward more responsible practices. However, it also highlights critical challenges, such as the high use of hazardous chemicals (24% of processes), particularly pumice stones and potassium permanganate—practices that urgently require safer and more sustainable alternatives due to their negative effects on both the environment and worker health.

Progress in water consumption management is also considered, as this remains one of the key environmental challenges for the textile sector. The report shows that the current average water usage in denim finishing is 30 liters per garment—still above the recommended benchmark of 22.5 liters per garment. Effective strategies for reducing water consumption include optimizing rinsing processes, selecting fabrics that require less aggressive treatments, and implementing technologies such as ozone, e-flow, and smart foam systems.

Among the proposed improvements are also the adoption of advanced technologies to reduce chemical use and protect worker health, such as the strategic selection of ZDHC-certified chemicals and the automation and digitalization of manual processes.

Begoña García, creator of the EIM platform and co-author of the report, states: “For years, the textile industry has lacked reliable tools to measure its environmental impact, making data-driven decisions difficult. This report marks a crucial step toward transparency and continuous improvement, showing that technology is key to measuring and reducing environmental impact.”

The report aims to support informed decision-making based on verifiable data, positioning EIM as a global standard essential for transparency and ongoing sustainability improvements in the textile industry.
The full report is available for download and will be updated annually, serving as a vital tool for brands and suppliers to collaborate in reducing their environmental footprint and advancing toward a more responsible and sustainable production model.

Archroma, a global leader in specialty chemicals, has successfully implemented a state-of-the-art Zero Liquid Discharge (ZLD) technology at its Mahachai plant in Thailand. The ZLD solution was designed and built by Gradiant, a global leader in advanced water and wastewater treatment. This milestone project marks a major leap forward in water circularity, enabling the recovery of 90-95% of wastewater for reuse and the extraction of valuable minerals for industrial applications.

Archroma partnered with Gradiant to deploy a high-efficiency, membrane- and oxidation-based ZLD solution, reinforcing its commitment to responsible water management in the textile industry. Located in a water-stressed region near Bangkok, the Mahachai plant now serves as a model for sustainable textile dye production, significantly reducing reliance on local water supplies while improving environmental resilience.

As part of its broader sustainability endeavor, Archroma addresses critical challenges within the apparel and textile industry, particularly water consumption. “We believe in reducing water use in production and home laundering. We innovate to remove toxins and contaminants from our products, making wastewater treatment easier for our plants and customers,” said Dhirendra Gautam, VP Global Marketing and Strategy, Archroma. “Our goal is to require our plants to have effective water conservation facilities with special focus on water stressed areas, contributing to water conservation and helping to combat acute water scarcity worldwide.”

Since 2019, Archroma has evaluated various ZLD solutions to address growing water challenges in Thailand. Gradiant’s Counterflow Reverse Osmosis (CFRO) was selected as the preferred technology for its ability to treat diverse wastewater compositions with superior efficiency and minimal energy consumption. The modular system seamlessly integrates with the plant’s existing wastewater treatment infrastructure, maximizing desalination capacity and water recovery while reducing the plant’s environmental footprint.

In addition to CFRO, Gradiant’s Free Radical Oxidation (FRO) technology has been deployed to remove color and organics from the RO concentrate, ensuring safe discharge and meeting stringent environmental regulations. The system also enables the recovery of concentrated brine, which Archroma repurposes within the dyeing process or supplies to industry partners for applications such as resin regeneration and chlorine production, further promoting a circular economy in water and resource management.
Thailand faces mounting water stress due to climate change, extreme droughts, and aging infrastructure, making sustainable water management an urgent priority. By implementing Gradiant’s ZLD solution, Archroma significantly reduces its dependence on freshwater sources, ensuring long-term operational resilience in a resource-constrained environment.

This multi-million-dollar investment underscores Archroma’s dedication to water conservation and its broader mission to transform the textile industry through sustainable innovation. Beyond Thailand, Archroma continues to expand its ZLD initiatives globally, including its Sustainable Effluent Treatment (SET) plant in Jamshoro, Pakistan, which has been providing irrigation water to surrounding communities.

CHT, a specialist in textile chemistry and dyes, is showcasing the latest sustainable textile technologies at PERFORMANCE DAYS Functional Fabric Fair in Munich on March 5 and 6, 2025. The focus is on innovative dyeing processes and functional finishes that specifically improve textile properties.

• PIGMENTURA by CHT - The innovative, pigment-based dyeing process uses no water at all for soaping and rinsing and does not require energy-intensive heating of the process water. As a result, water consumption in the dyeing process can be reduced by up to 96 %. This pioneering technology was awarded the German Federal Ecodesign Award in the Product category in 2024 - a result of the successful collaboration between Inditex and CHT.
• ECOPRINT by CHT - The water-based textile printing system with reactive and pigment inks meets the highest sustainability standards and has been awarded the C2C Certified Material Health Certificate™. It actively contributes to converting linear production processes into circular systems and promoting the textile circular economy.
• TUBINGAL® RISE - The innovative softener is made from recycled end-of-life silicones and consists of over 60 % recycled silicone waste and emulsifiers from renewable raw materials.
• ARRISTAN rAIR - The sustainable hydrophilic finish is made from recycled PET flakes and ensures optimum moisture regulation, fast drying and excellent dirt repellency. ARRISTAN rAIR is ideal for finishing recycled yarns and fabrics, which can then be recycled again.

Inspired by Inditex, the CHT Group developed PIGMENTURA by CHT, an innovative and sustainable pigment-based dyeing process that reduces water consumption in the dyeing process by up to 96 % and 60 % of energy compared to other continuous dyeing processes.

On December 2nd, 2024 the pigment-based dyeing process PIGMENTURA of CHT Germany GmbH was awarded with the German Ecodesign Award in the Product category.

The German Ecodesign Award honors designers, companies and students from Germany and Europe whose work make an important contribution to the sustainable transformation of the German economy and society. The award has been granted annually since 2012 by the German Ministry for the Environment and the German Environment Agency in cooperation with the International Design Center Berlin.

Dr. Annegret Vester, Chief Sustainability Officer at CHT, about PIGMENTURA:
“PIGMENTURA is an example of how completely new processes can be developed when existing processes are being rethought: The starting point was traditional pigment dyeing where the pigments have to be “bound” to the textile using special components. PIGMENTURA follows the idea of adsorbing pigments on the surface and thus simplifying the process.

It was a highlight when it became clear what great savings potential can be achieved in the dyeing process with PIGMENTURA. The classic reactive dyeing of textiles is associated with very high energy and water consumption.

There were numerous obstacles to overcome during the development phase, as each individual process step had to be developed to process maturity. Added to this is the diversity of textiles, which leads to significant changes in dyeing behavior, which we have now been able to standardize with PIGMENTURA.“

PIGMENTURA by CHT is already in use in the fashion industry worldwide.

A collaboration that unites Monforts’ dyeing and finishing equipment, BW Converting’s Baldwin TexCoat G4™ digital spray technology and Archroma’s chemistries towards sustainable solutions is charting the course for the future of sustainable textile finishing.

Together, the three companies will support dyeing and finishing manufacturers, a critical part of the textile supply chain, in their development projects, boosting the quality and performance of their finished products, while at the same time maximizing the productivity and resource utilization of the finishing application process.  

Kicking off the partnership in the second half of this year, Monforts will install BW Converting’s full-width Baldwin TexCoat digital spray unit on a stenter frame at its Advanced Technology Center (ATC) at its headquarters in Mönchengladbach, Germany.

“Our ATC already houses two full Montex stenter finishing lines engineered to accommodate an extremely diverse range of processes, in addition to a Thermex range for the continuous dyeing of denim and other woven fabrics, a full color kitchen and a number of lab-scale systems for smaller batch trials,” explained Monforts Junior Technologist Saskia Kuhlen. “It enables our customers to test their own textiles and technical fabrics under fully confidential, real production conditions and using the results from these trials we are also able to make recommendations for improving many fabric finishes. The new TexCoat installation will make an important contribution to what we can achieve.”
 
TexCoat G4 revolutionizes the traditional water- and energy-intensive pad-dry-cure finishing process by precisely applying chemistry including softeners, antimicrobials, durable water repellents, flame retardants, resins and most other water-based chemicals across the textile surface only where it is required, on one or both sides of the fabric. The system can therefore reduce water, chemistry and energy consumption by up to 50% compared to traditional pad application processes.

The TexCoat G4 installation brings together the surface functions, fabric transport and thermal processing technology of Monforts stenter frames with Archroma’s specialty chemicals, applied with TexCoat’s contactless precision, to achieve optimum absorption and maximum efficacy, exceeding the performance of traditional pad applications.

“Archroma’s commitment to advancing sustainability solutions for technical textiles has led to a pivotal partnership with Baldwin, where the benefits of contactless precision spray combined with our innovative solutions have helped textile manufacturers achieve greater energy and water savings,” said Michael Schuhmann, Global Marketing Segment Manager for Technical Textiles, Archroma Textile Effects. “We are thrilled to take the partnership to the next level with the integration of a renowned equipment expert. Together, we will bring the best of our expertise in sustainable technologies to our customers around the world.”

“Baldwin has enjoyed a great relationship with Monforts and Archroma over the last few years,” added Rick Stanford, Baldwin’s Vice-President of Business Development for Textiles “Individually, we are working hard to assist our customers to achieve their sustainability and environmental targets but this is the first time the three companies have committed to working together with a focus on bringing transformative change to the dyeing and finishing space. It will result in significantly lower energy, chemical and water consumption with increased productivity and higher quality.  We strongly believe that this partnership will be greater than the sum of its parts.”

Beyond textile finishing, Monforts, Baldwin and Archroma will work together to develop a versatile offering that will include coloration concepts and in the not-too-distant future the partners additionally plan to expand their collaboration to continuous spray dye applications developed by Baldwin.

Archroma has won awards in two categories at the Just Style 2024 Excellence Awards. It took home two coveted Innovation Excellence awards for its SUPER SYSTEMS+ solutions and AVICUERO® leather tanning process, as well as a Social Excellence award for its longstanding and holistic commitment to community engagement in Baroda, India.

The awards recognize how Archroma is driving change with innovations that advance sustainability and through initiatives that contribute to the socio-economic progress of communities near to its Baroda manufacturing plant.

Innovation Awards
Archroma was recognized for advancing sustainable manufacturing in two Just Style Excellence Awards for Innovation.

SUPER SYSTEMS+ is a comprehensive suite of solutions that addresses the textile industry's key challenges, including water consumption, greenhouse gas emissions, circularity, chemical management and compliance.

By providing end-to-end, fiber-specific solutions that enhance process efficiency and offer intelligent effects, SUPER SYSTEMS+ enables mills and brands to meet their sustainability targets as well as consumer demand for durable products with enhanced functionality and sustainability. With end-to-end solutions from pre-treatment to finishing, SUPER SYSTEMS+ can be deployed without additional investment. With future compliance in mind, the solutions also go beyond current regulations and industry standards to anticipate upcoming restrictions.

Archroma’s AVICUERO® is a system for sustainable leather tanning and dyeing. Developed in collaboration with UK-based leather technology expert Dr Leather, it is both chrome- and metal-free and yet maintains the quality and performance of traditional tanning methods. Tanners enjoy shorter processing times, eliminate the pickling process and reduce salt usage, leading to lower pollution effluent discharge loads. In addition, AVICUERO® can offer energy savings of up to 25% and CO₂ emissions reductions of up to 23% compared to traditional chrome tanning.

Social Award for Community Engagement
Archroma has also been recognized for the positive impact it is having on communities in the vicinity of Baroda through multifaceted initiatives that span early childhood development, student scholarships, agricultural education and the empowerment of women.

Archroma recently set up an Anganwadi Centre to provide a range of services in the community, including nutrition and health education and pre-school learning. It also runs a scholarship program for students in vocational training, helping to create a skilled talent pool for the region. Archroma is also collaborating with a local NGO to empower farmers with modern agricultural methods and insights.

The building of a Household Biogas Plant in Umraya village is another example of Archroma's sustainable initiatives. The conversion of manure into clean renewable energy by the plant tackles several issues, such as reducing greenhouse gas emissions and enhancing soil health. It also liberates rural women from the burden of sourcing conventional fuel sources and the health risks associated with burning dung cakes for fuel.

CARBIOS, a pioneer in the development and industrialization of biological technologies to reinvent the life cycle of plastic and textiles, has received an initial payment of €1.2 million from the French Agency for Ecological Transition (ADEME) for the OPTI-ZYME research project, carried out in partnership with INRAE2, INSA3 and CNRS4 via the TWB5 joint service and TBI6 research units, a project co-funded by the French State as part of France 2030 operated by ADEME. With CARBIOS' aim to optimize and continuously improve its unique enzymatic PET depolymerization technology, the 4-year7 OPTI-ZYME project aims to investigate the scientific and technical levers for improving the competitiveness of the process, optimizing the necessary investments and reducing its environmental footprint.

This collaborative R&D program focuses on the technical and economic optimization of process stages, while preserving the quality of the monomers obtained. These optimizations, new developments and the exploration of innovative solutions should enhance the technology's flexibility with regards to incoming waste. Raw materials could come from different sources that are currently rarely or not recycled, notably food trays and textiles, or a mix of incoming materials. It also aims to limit input and water consumption, as well as regenerate or reduce co-products and ultimate residual waste. Finally, it seeks to support enzyme optimization to maximize the process’ economic profitability and competitiveness.

The project therefore aims to achieve an overall improvement in performance, combining efficiency, quality and environmental sustainability, to benefit the Longlaville plant which is currently under construction, and future licensed plants.

In May 2023, CARBIOS, the project leader and coordinator, announced that it had been awarded a total of €11.4M in funding by the French State as part of France 2030, operated by ADEME, including €8.2M directly for CARBIOS (€3.2M in grants and €5M in repayable advances) and €3.2M for its academic partners INRAE, INSA and CNRS (via the TWB mixed service and TBI research units). This funding, which is made up of grants and repayable advances, will be paid out in several instalments over the course of the project, including an initial instalment of 15%, equivalent to €1.2 million, received by CARBIOS on 5 December 2023. The first Monitoring Committee with ADEME for the first key stage of the project will be held in February 2024 to validate the granting of the second instalment of funding.

This project 2282D0513-A is funded by the French State as part of France 2030 operated by ADEME.

Textil Santanderina, a manufacturer of quality fabrics with controlled traceability, launched its Advanced Black denim collection in collaboration with Archroma.

The Advanced Black collection by Textil Santanderina uses Archroma’s new DIRESUL® EVOLUTION BLACK LIQ dyestuff to produce on-trend authentic black denim apparel with sustainability and resource savings. In addition to allowing fashion and apparel brands to choose eco-friendlier alternatives that demonstrate their commitment to protecting people and planet, Textil Santanderina’s new Advanced Black denim range also offers unique shade and wash-down effects.

Based on synthesis technology developed by Archroma, DIRESUL EVOLUTION BLACK LIQ delivers an overall impact reduction to 57%*, measuring its effect on human health, ecosystems and resources compared to standard Sulfur Black 1 liquid. Unlike traditional synthesis processes, it does not produce any ammonia, sodium salts waste or liquid effluents, and water consumption in the synthesis process is reduced by 73% for massive savings. The new DIRESUL dyestuff, when adopted with the full Archroma coloration system, delivers a new black color with on-tone wash-down effect and cleaner effluent at the mill.

Textil Santanderina and Archroma previously collaborated to produce Textil Santanderina’s aniline-free** indigo denim collection with the use of DENISOL® PURE INDIGO.

*As determined by Ecoterrae, a leading Spain-based sustainability consulting firm, through a Life Cycle Analysis (UNE-EN ISO 14044:2006) at the synthesis stage, using the ReCiPe 2016 Impact calculation methodology.
**Below limits of detection according to industry standard test methods.

Archroma, a leader in specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, and Somelos, a vertically integrated textile group in Portugal, have joined forces to advance sustainable cotton processing with a new water-saving dyeing and finishing process that generates no wastewater.

Conventional cotton dyeing and finishing requires substantial water and chemical inputs and produces a large volume of wastewater. Long-lasting wash-down effects in particular, traditionally require two water-intensive processes: one to get the color intensity and one to achieve the washed-down contrast. Relying on such resource-intensive processes is of particular concern in nations affected by drought and water scarcity, like Portugal, the home of Somelos since its founding in 1958.

To address this challenge, Archroma and Somelos have now developed the New Dry Dyeing/Ox Finishing process for the production of bottoms and shirting in cotton fabrics. Based on Archroma’s Pad-Ox dyeing process, which combines oxidation and fixation into one step, and the latest technologies for washdown effects, including ozone and laser treatments, it delivers water savings of up to 97% compared to conventional cotton dyeing and finishing.

The New Dry Dyeing/Ox Finishing process only uses water to prepare the dye and oxidation baths. Archroma Diresul® RDT liquid pre-reduced sulfur dyes ensure easy washdown and direct fixation—with no need for pre-washing—delivering shorter processing, cleaner production and high wash -fastness.