From the Sector

Baldwin Technology Company Inc. will showcase its key innovative technologies for optimized corrugated high-graphics package printing at the ConneXion virtual expo, taking place from June 1 to 8. In Baldwin’s virtual exhibit, visitors will experience fully automated flexo plate-cleaning systems, an energy-efficient IR (infrared) drying solution and LED-UV curing systems, all of which increase print quality and productivity, with operator safety and sustainability in mind.

Key innovative technologies:

• The FlexoCleanerBrush™, a solution to enhance print quality and improve worker safety in corrugated printing.
• The FlexoCleanPick™, a system designed to automatically remove hickeys—typically caused by paper fibers, dust and ink contamination, and other causes of printing defects—from the plate during the print run without stopping the press or requiring operator skin contact with wash agents.
• The FlexoDry2™, a fully integrated IR drying system, specifically developed for corrugated flexo printing presses, that reduces energy consumption by up to 30 percent over standard IR dryers via the use of patented Diamond IR™ lamps.
• A new generation of LED-UV technology—designed by AMS Spectral UV, a Baldwin Technology company, for wide-format flexo corrugated box printing—represents the latest in solid-state LED curing innovations and offers more than a 50 percent reduction in power consumption, compared to traditional UV systems, in an ultra-compact lamphead that fits at the end of the press or between printing units.

You can register here.

Under vacuum, the new BB Engineering large-area filter produces a homogeneous, pure melt with a targeted IV setting for instance, for returning polyester production waste to the melt flow, but also for achieving a homogeneous viscosity in the case of virgin material.

BB Engineering has expanded its melt filter portfolio to include a patented large-area vacuum filter designed especially for processing polyester waste. The so-called Visco+ filter is already known as the key component of the BB Engineering VacuFil recycling system. Now, it is also available as a separate and easily-integratable upgrade component for existing systems. Within this context, the uses of the Visco+ are by no means limited to just decontamination. Here, the Visco+ offers the following solutions:

• IV homogenization: if an existing production system is struggling with IV fluctuations, the Visco+ is able to actively intervene and balance out any irregularities;
• IV increase: if the final viscosity is insufficient when processing recycled materials, the Visco+ can increase the IV without the negative impact of long residence times.

In this way, the Visco+ enables fast and flexibly-controllable viscosity build-up and reliable viscosity monitoring of the polyester melt using a to-date unique, patented process. Depending on the intended end use, the melt can be ad-justed to the further processing procedure in a targeted manner. The requi-site melt properties above all the intrinsic viscosity, but also the purity and homogeneity are achieved in a reliable and reproducible manner and can also be adjusted during ongoing operation.

As a melt filter, the Visco+ operates like a liquid-state polycondensation unit. A maintenance-intensive reactor or a deposit-prone stirring unit are not required. Moisture is removed from the PET in the filter, which – in conjunction with an adjustable residence time – results in the desired IV increase in the vacuum. This enables a controlled IV build-up of up to 30%. The intrinsic vis-cosity is the central quality figure in PET recycling and rPET processing. It determines the melt performance in the downstream production process and the properties of the end products. The intrinsic viscosity is continually moni-tored by means of an integrated viscosity measurement unit and reliably adjusted in the event of deviations (caused by disparate input qualities, for ex-ample). At the same time, the filter provides an enormous material surface compared to the volume and continuously renews this. To this end, contamination can be removed particularly effectively from the starting material by means of automatically-regulated high-performance vacuum (1-30 mbar).

The Visco+ is particularly suitable for recycling PET waste that is to be reused for high-end products.

The antimicrobial protection of Sanitized® T 99-19 against the SARS-CoV-2 virus has been confirmed by independent labs in France (basis: ISO 18184:2019).

Textile and polymer products with Sanitized® antimicrobial treatment have been used in hygiene-sensitive areas for many years. For textiles, Sanitized® T 99-19 is a patented technology based on a silane-ammonia compound, a globally proven product. Its hygiene function is used in workwear and protective clothing for nursing staff, bed linen or mattresses in hotels, nursing care facilities and hospitals. Polyester goods for precisely these areas of application can now not only be antimicrobial, but also reliably protective against SARS CoV-2.

The antiviral efficacy (99.84 %) of the Sanitized® T 99-19 product has been officially confirmed by tests conducted by external labs.

Tests on end products, which were additionally carried out by textile manufacturers, also prove the effectiveness of Sanitized® T 99-19 against SARS CoV-2. License partners praise this confidence-building benefit of the end products. SANITIZED license partners receive concrete support in terms of marketing and legal aspects (health claims).

Avoid legal pitfalls when claiming antiviral protection
Advice and support for customers in achieving optimal hygiene protection for their products are an integral part of SANITIZED services. A claim guide has therefore been developed especially for products that protect against COVID-19.
https://www.sanitized.com/de/protection-against-covid-19-which-antiviral-advertising-claimsare-legal-sanitized-explains/

Devan, one of the leading companies in sustainable and functional textile finishes, has been working together with Jeanologia, a global leader in sustainable and efficient finishing technologies for textiles, to reduce further water consumption during the application of Devan’s awarded BI-OME® antimicrobial and R-Vital® skincare range.

With increased attention to climate change and limiting excess water consumption in textile production (whether denim or other textiles), Devan and Jeanologia worked together to evaluate the application of Devan finishes onto garments via the patented e-Flow technology.

e-Flow technology can accomplish a considerable number of finishing effects with the highest quality, a minimal amount of water and zero discharge. The technology uses micronization and nebulization to substitute traditional abrasion process and deliver performance chemistry using nano-bubbles instead of water. It reduces the cost of application, saves the amount of water used and ensures that the correct amount of chemistry stays in the garment and not in the water. e-Flow is the perfect fit for every industrial washing machine. This allows mills and brands to apply Devan’s technologies in a more sustainable way than using traditional application equipment, even for smaller production runs and direct onto garments.

“With the global textile production using 4% of the global freshwater withdrawal, here at Devan we are continuously working on more sustainable solutions”, says Dr. Vanessa Daelman, CTO at Devan. “Next to this, we of course highly value sustainable application methods from Jeanologia, like e-Flow, in order to reduce the excess water usage during textile application. We are delighted that we could work together with Jeanologia and establish that Devan technologies can be easily applied via these technologies onto garments or fabrics like denim and with full retention of functionality. This application method also allows post garment treatment of our finishes, for example an antimicrobial treatment onto already finished garments, which will be increasingly important in a more circular textile world where re-use plays an important role”, Dr. Daelman concludes.

The machines are quick and reliable, with very little downtime, which is massively important to me as a business owner.”

Kornit Digital (Nasdaq: KRNT), a worldwide market leader in digital textile printing technology, announced United Kingdom-based Kitlocker has implemented two Kornit Avalanche Poly Pro systems for efficient, retail-quality production of branded and customized apparel on demand.

Kitlocker operates within several sectors of the sports and leisurewear market, providing team gear for schools, football clubs, and other sporting organizations, managing e-commerce platforms on behalf of those organizations. Enabling their customers to embellish popular styles on demand, in any quantity, drove them to explore available technologies for speed and versatility, particularly regarding polyester apparel, a cornerstone of sportswear. Kornit’s Poly Pro system is the only single-step digital direct-to-garment (DTG) technology developed specifically for imprinting polyester and poly-blend materials, extending the company’s patented process for waste-free production with durability, precise graphic detail, and the broadest colour gamut to popular sports and athleisure apparel.

“The Kornit Avalanche Poly Pro allows for far superior quality of finish for embellishment compared to traditional print techniques,” says Mike Kent, Co-Owner of Kitlocker. “When we were shopping around for alternatives, it was obvious the sort of single pass, and its ability to print on polyester, was certainly market-leading—there was no alternative that could do that. The machines are quick and reliable, with very little downtime, which is massively important to me as a business owner.”

According to Kent, the technology has enabled Kitlocker to approach new markets that had always been off-limits previously, driving incremental business and building out new product ranges. The process lent itself to simple integration with their workflow and online design tools, empowering customers to visualize their own pieces and receive finished gear, with superior retail quality and precise logo colour matching, in mere days.

“The system allows us bigger print areas, more colours, and more elaborate designs, and our customers to uniquely embellish their garments on a wide range of products from different brands with lots of different kinds of creative outputs,” adds Kent.

“Our systems help brands like Kitlocker sync supply with demand, eliminating waste and making them more reactive to customer needs,” says Chris Govier, KDEU Managing Director. “Kornit Avalanche Poly Pro extends the efficiency, sustainability, quality, and logistical benefits of digitization to the booming sports and athleisure apparel market. Being able to give their customers the widest assortment of gear, customized in any quantity, on demand, is a winning game plan for Kitlocker.”

• BIONIC-FINISH®ECO Fluorine-Free, Water Repellent Finishes for Ultimate Performance

In recent years, many scientists have shifted from favoring a “primordial soup” in pools of water to hydrothermal vents deep in the ocean as the original source of life on Earth. Regardless what the real beginning really was, water was certainly involved in the process some 3,5bln years ago. And since then, Mother Nature designed many ways to benefit of water and to be sheltered from it. Many engineering challenges humans face can be solved by turning to those 3,5bln years of experience and by using natural design as springboard. That’s biologically inspired engineering or, in short, bionics. BIONIC-FINISH®ECO of RUDOLF GROUP is Mother Nature’s work reproduced on textiles and apparel to protect us from water. To perform.

Back in 2003, RUDOLF GROUP borrowed from Mother Nature the idea of dendrimers (from dendron, Greek word for ‘tree’), molecules made of multi-functional branches that interact among themselves, co-crystallize, and self-organize into highly ordered, multicomponent systems. These hyper-branched polymers attach to the textile and embed fluorine-free, durable water-repellent performance.
In 2021 BIONIC-FINISH®ECO comes as a reviewed and extended family of unique nonhalogenated, APEO-free, fluorine-free formulations suited for different materials and designed for different applications and needs. Still very much based on patented dendrimer technology, the new and strengthened BIONIC-FINISH®ECO’s product portfolio:

• Provides non-fluorinated and highly durable water repellent textile finishes for high-performance, professional applications (e.g. when brushing resistance is required);
• Delivers highly efficient and durable performance with low application amounts thus not affecting fabric feel and appearance (e.g. when remarkable softness is important);
• Fulfills a range of challenging technical requirements (e.g. minimal impact on flame retardant properties of technical fibers);
• Is suitable for both sportswear and outdoor applications, as well as for casual apparel and fashion clothing;
• Is bluesign® approved, ZDHC chemical gateway certified and compliant with most RSLs;

BIONIC-FINISH®ECO new portfolio includes universal and versatile solutions targeting the most standard requirements, as well as customized solutions that meet more demanding and specific expectations such as improved resistance to dry-cleaning. “None of us can entirely predict where our voyage will lead” says Dr. Gunther Duschek, RUDOLF GROUP Managing Director. “However, BIONIC-FINISH®ECO of RUDOLF GROUP will always be the fluorine-free, durable water repellent for ultimate  performance. As it is today”.

Reinach, Switzerland, and Westlake, Ohio, 2 February 2021 - Archroma, a global leader in specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, today announced a strategic partnership with technology innovator CleanKore, aiming to advance sustainable dyeing processes throughout the denim supply chain.

The agreement will allow Archroma and CleanKore to promote the benefits of each other’s technologies. This includes Archroma’s robust catalog of dyes and specialty chemicals along with CleanKore’s patented process of dyeing yarns at the denim mill that completely eliminates the need for potassium permanganate (PP) spray and laser booster to achieve the bright white abrasion effect in the garment finishing process. The result is a large and circular bright white core with a small ring of indigo dye. The technology does not just eliminate the chemicals associated in the PP spray and laser process, which is much safer for denim workers, it also allows to save significant amounts of water and energy throughout the manufacturing process from fabric to garmenting.

CleanKore initially looked at eliminating potassium permanganate due to its being classified as hazardous if inhaled or ingested, or in case of contact with the skin or the eye. It is also considered very toxic to aquatic life. No new equipment or capital expenses are needed to implement the CleanKore technology, which works on all denim fabric, including dark indigo, sulfur top/bottom and sulfur black.

This is where Archroma comes into the picture. Its global technical team of denim coloration specialists will provide support to denim mills seeking to implement the CleanKore technology and develop the desired looks and effects - with the right colors and chemical systems for their production set-up.

CleanKore estimates that the technology allows to save up to 15 liters of water per garment, or the equivalent to the drinking needs of 5 people per day, and up to 0.51 kWh of energy per garment, or the equivalent of five 100-watt light bulbs on for 1 hour. The CleanKore technology also leads to a 10% to 20% increase in production throughput, as a result of a faster garment wash-down and the elimination of PP spray.

For CleanKore CEO Darryl Costin Jr., the announcement comes at an ideal time for CleanKore: "We have successfully proven the technology with mill partners such as Arvind and other denim mills in Pakistan, Bangladesh, China, Vietnam, Thailand and the United States. The response from the industry has been overwhelmingly positive. Having a partner in Archroma, one that is highly respected for their innovation and emphasis on sustainability throughout the industry, will allow us to take CleanKore to the next level.”

Umberto Devita, Global Indigo Manager at the Archroma Global Competence Center for Denim & Casualwear, adds: "CleanKore is perfectly aligned with the 3 pillars of 'The Archroma Way to a Sustainable World: Safe, efficient, enhanced'. 'Safe' through the elimination of a potentially harmful substance and the protection of the denim workers, 'Efficient' through the reduction of resource consumption, improved productivity and cost-effective profile. And 'Enhanced' through the gorgeous colors and effects allowed with Archroma's innovations and systems, in particular our aniline-free* Denisol® Pure Indigo and Diresul® sulfur dyes. We look forward to help promoting an innovation that will help with many of the challenges facing our denim customers throughout the world. Because it’s our nature."

• Elleti Group partners with Wiser Wash for Europe and the Mediterranean area, with Portugal being the only exception, for a more sustainable fashion.
• The enterprise based in Verona joins Wiser Wash’s international network and adopts the innovative patented process for the treatment of denim that has the market’s lowest environmental impact.

Tradition and innovation: this combination has always characterized Elleti Group, a historic company based in San Bonifacio and an important point of reference for the denim industry and beyond. Now it is also the exclusive partner of Wiser Wash for Europe and the Mediterranean area, with Portugal being the only exception. Specializing in laundry, dyeing and garment making services, the company is led by the steady hand and ambitious vision of Luigi Lovato, who was recently recognized by Rivet50 as one of 2020's fifty most influential people in the denim ecosystem. The partnership with Wiser Wash is a fitting continuation of Elleti Group's tireless pursuit of excellence, development of cutting-edge solutions and commitment to environmental sustainability, which has always projected the proud Made in Italy tradition towards the future.

With the introduction of Wiser Wash's technology, Elleti Group has significantly reduced the amount of resources used in traditional garment treatment. This patented washing method eliminates the use of pumice stone and all harmful chemicals, while drastically reducing water consumption throughout the process. In addition, the efficiency of the process lowers chemical and mechanical stress on fabric fibers as compared to traditional treatment, guaranteeing greater garment robustness and longevity.

This important milestone is the latest and more relevant result of a commitment that has been integral to Elleti Group's approach since its foundation. This was already present in the Earthkeepers collection – a line of low environmental impact treatments which marked the culmination of research and experimentation journey, aimed at developing an authentic look whilst looking out for the safeguard of the environment, its resources and its people. Record of the company's evolution is kept in the "Stadium", an impressive archive of Elleti Group collections. There displayed are some 15,000 garments, direct evidence of the stylistic and technological developments that have made Elleti Group an international benchmark for creativity and high quality.

"Nothing is more important to us than satisfying our clients' needs. We put all our expertise and experience at the service of their creative ideas," said Luigi Lovato, Founder and CEO of Elleti Group. "The partnership with Wiser Wash is definitely another reason to be proud, and it will set our bar even higher in guaranteeing quality, authenticity and an ever-increasing respect for the environment and our employees."

• Monforts customer Kipaş has been selected as the sole denim manufacturing partner in the €6.7 million European Union-funded New Cotton Project, involving the brands adidas and H&M, working in a consortium with suppliers, innovators and research institutes.

Kipaş, based in Kahramanmaraş, Turkey, is currently installing its third Monforts Montex stenter along with a third Monfortex compressive shrinkage system in a combined configuration dedicated to denim production.

This follows the successful installation and commissioning of the second Montex and Monfortex lines at the Kahramanmaraş plant in 2018, which Kipaş Vice Chairman of the Board Ahmet Öksüz said had immediately exceeded expectations.

“We performed a very thorough technical investigation based on the latest Industry 4.0 analysis before the purchase, to determine what we needed, and the Monforts technology met all our requirements,” he said, in an interview with Textilegence magazine. “The Monfortex is equipped with a variety of features not found on classical shrinkage machines and the production can be monitored from beginning to end. It also exceeded our expectations in energy cost savings.”

Kipaş subsequently received a special certificate from Monforts in recognition of its exceptional utilisation of the technology to its full potential.

The latest Montex stenter now being installed at Kipaş is a 12-chamber unit with a working width of 2 metres featuring all of the latest automation features. The Monfortex unit, also with a working width of 2 metres, is in a ‘double rubber’ configuration, comprising two compressive shrinkage units and two felt calenders in line. This allows the heat setting of elastane fibres and the residual shrinkage of the denim to be carried out simultaneously, for a significant increase in production speeds.

“Around 90-95% of denim fabric production now contains elastane fibres and the Monforts system has allowed us to simultaneously increase our production and quality in this respect,” Mr Öksüz said.

Regenerated cotton
For the next three years within the New Cotton Project, Kipaş will manufacture denim fabrics based on the cellulose-based fibres of Infinited Fiber Company of Finland, made from post-consumer textile waste that has been collected, sorted and regenerated.

The patented technology of Infinited, which is leading the consortium of 12 companies, turns cellulose-rich textile waste into fibres that look and feel like cotton.

“We are very excited and proud to lead this project which is breaking new ground when it comes to making circularity in the textile industry a reality,” said Infinited co-founder and CEO Petri Alava. “The enthusiasm and commitment with which the entire consortium has come together to work towards a cleaner, more sustainable future for fashion is truly inspiring.”

Take-back programmes
Adidas and H&M will establish take-back programmes to collect the clothing that is produced, to determine the next phase in their lifecycle. Clothing that can no longer be worn will be returned to Infinited, for regeneration into new fibres, further contributing to a circular economy in which textiles never go to waste, but instead are reused, recycled or turned into new garments.

The aim is to prove that circular, sustainable fashion can be achieved today, and to act as an inspiration and stepping stone to further, even bigger circular initiatives by the industry going forward.

The EU has identified the high potential for circularity within the textile industry, while simultaneously highlighting the urgent need for the development of technologies to produce and design sustainable and circular bio-based materials. Making sustainable products commonplace, reducing waste and leading global efforts on circularity are outlined in the European Commission’s Circular Economy Action Plan.

Fashion brands produce nearly twice as many clothes today as they did 20 years ago and demand is expected to continue growing. At the same time, the equivalent of one garbage truck of textiles is landfilled or burned every second. Most of the textile industry’s environmental problems relate to the raw materials used by the industry – cotton, fossil-based fibres such as polyester, and viscose as the most common man-made cellulosic fibre, are all associated with serious environmental concerns.

Since the outbreak of the coronavirus pandemic, the worldwide demand for protective masks and apparel has resulted in a record number of new orders in the high double-digit millions of euros at Oerlikon Nonwoven. The meltblown technology from Neumünster is recognized by the market as being one of the technically most efficient methods for producing highly-separating filter media made from plastic fibers.

Protective equipment demands high-end nonwoven products
The rising demand for protective masks and other medical protective equipment since the start of the coronavirus pandemic and the associated global ramping up of production capacities has also resulted in an increase in the demand for nonwovens for the production thereof. Initially, this resulted in bottlenecks in the provision of meltblown filter nonwovens. To this end, there had until this point be very few producers of medical filter nonwovens outside China. Meanwhile, the demand for spunbond systems is also rising. “Due to the structure of our group, we are in the fortunate position to swiftly reallocate and free up our production capacities. This means that we are able to relatively quickly deliver not only meltblown systems, but also spunbond equipment”, explains Dr. Ingo Mählmann, Head of Sales & Marketing at Oerlikon Nonwoven, talking about the positive situation at the company.

The capacities for respiratory masks available in Europe to date are predominantly manufactured on Oerlikon Nonwoven systems. “Our machines and systems for manufacturing manmade fiber and nonwovens solutions enjoy an outstanding reputation throughout the world. Ever more manufacturers in the most diverse countries are hoping to become independent of imports”, comments Dr. Mählmann. The Oerlikon Nonwoven meltblown systems are being delivered to Germany, China, Turkey, United Kingdom, South Korea, Italy, France, North America and – for the very first time – to Australia until well into 2021.

Quality and efficiency in demand
Depending on the purpose of the application, medical PPE (personal protection equipment) should be breathable and comfortable to wear, protect medical staff against viruses, bacteria and other harmful substances and form a barrier against liquids. For these reasons, they are often made of either pure spunbond or of spunbond-meltblown combinations. Here, the meltblown nonwoven core assumes the barrier or filter task, while the spunbond has to retain its shape, while being tear-resistant, abrasion-proof, absorbent, particularly flame-resistant and nevertheless extremely soft on the skin.

All masks are not created equal – thanks to the ecuTEC+
Protection against infections such as coronavirus can only be guaranteed with the right quality.

The nonwovens can be electrostatically-charged in order to further improve the filter performance without additionally increasing breathing resistance. Here, Oerlikon Nonwovenʼs patented ecuTEC+ electro-charging unit excels in terms of its extreme flexibility. Nonwovens manufacturers can freely choose between numerous variation options and set the optimal charging method and intensity for their specific applications. In this way, even the smallest particles are still attracted and reliable separated by a relatively open-pored nonwoven. Nevertheless, mask wearers are still able to easily breathe in and out due to the comparatively loose formation of the fibers. To this end, it comes as no surprise that all meltblown systems currently destined for the production of mask nonwovens are equipped with the ecuTEC+ unit.