From the Sector

• INVISTA to showcase ‘Innovative Attitude’ at Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics
• Innovative INVISTA products, findings from a new textile industry IP protection survey, in-depth consumer insights and fashion trends will be revealed

INVISTA, one of the world’s largest integrated producers of polymers and fibres, will showcase the innovative attitudes enabling it to maintain a leading position in the textile industry at the upcoming Rendez-Vous 2017 at October’s Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics – the world’s most influential apparel event. INVISTA Rendez-Vous will showcase innovative INVISTA products, offer consumer insights and reveal the results of a textile industry IP protection survey.

INVISTA Rendez-Vous 2017 will be held at Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics 11 – 13 October at the National Exhibition and Convention Center in Shanghai, with INVISTA occupying two booths in hall 5.2 E49 and hall 7.2 E55. 

As a global authoritative trade show in textile industry, Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics has been a platform for INVISTA to communicate with players across the value chain for 23 years. This year’s event will be no exception. The rich and vivid content delivered at the show will focus on INVISTA’s Innovative Attitude to consumers, partners as well as the whole industry.

To build a healthy and sustainable marketing environment, INVISTA cooperated with a number of media organisations to conduct a survey on IP protection in the textile industry. The results will be revealed during a seminar entitled ‘Innovation and IP: An Avenue for Sustainable Textile Industry Development’, which will be held on 11 October, 2:45 – 3:45pm in the Textile Dialogue area in hall 5.2. Representatives from textile industry associations, legal firms and INVISTA will share the findings and offer insights during what will undoubtedly be one of the highlights of INVISTA Rendez-Vous 2017.

The main pavilion of the show will be located in the International Hall (hall 5.2), where three of INVISTA’s most innovative products will be on show. Visitors will experience the latest possibilities offered by LYCRA® MOVESTM BRA, LYCRA® MOVESTM LEGGINGS and LYCRA® MOVESTM HOSIERY.

LYCRA® MOVESTM BRA

According to consumer research conducted in 2016, bra products in China’s domestic market don’t match consumer demands in a host of critical areas, including support, comfort and aesthetic design. To address these concerns, streamline the industry and consolidate its leadership, INVISTA is launching LYCRA® lastingFIT technology for bra wings. In addition, INVISTA’s cutting-edge technology can contribute to meeting specific quality standards in bra wing fabrics, enabling Chinese consumers to experience higher levels of comfort and the appropriate support they expect from a bra in different occasions.

LYCRA® MOVESTM LEGGINGS

INVISTA’s longstanding commitment to legging fabrics will also be on display at Rendez-Vous. INVISTA’s LYCRA® MOVESTM LEGGINGS has already spawned LYCRA® SPORT Power-Comfort-Energy (PCE™) index-certified fabrics, which are now commercially available.

The revolutionary fabrics present excellent recovery performance for LYCRA® SPORT legging products. They also offer the industry an opportunity to develop a number of targeted segment markets – from compression and medium compress to light compression leggings.

LYCRA® MOVESTM HOSIERY

LYCRA® MOVESTM HOSIERY is all about fabric technology innovation. Due to excellent properties, such as anti-laddering, fit and durability as well as comfortable waistbands, INVISTA’s LYCRA® FUSIONTM technology has already been widely adopted in China’s hosiery sector.

A Packed Pavilion

At the LYCRA® MOVESTM Denim pavilion in the Beyond Denim hall (7.2), visitors won’t just see the innovative denim products offered by INVISTA; they will also learn about three themes highlighted through consumer insights – fit, shape and embracing heat & cold. There will also be a special session outlining the latest woven bottom trends, hosted by INVISTA experts.

Introduced commercially in 2010, LYCRA® dualFX® dual core yarn technology provides denim with super stretch and super recovery that fits all day and every day. It effectively prevents seam slippage and uneven fabric surfaces, keeping denim looking good, feeling comfortable and fitting, which in turn creates new denim fabric applications and fashion trends in the China market.

Last But Not Least

An interactive program, that includes visitors uploading pictures they take at the INVISTA booth to the official INVISTA WeChat account, will give every visitor a chance to win a special INVISTA gift. Visit INVISTA at hall 5.2 E49 and hall 7.2 E55 from 11 – 13 October at Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics 2017.

The Industry of the Future Alliance (AIF) has awarded Lectra with their ‘Showcase for the Industry of the Future’ label for demonstrating the criteria exemplarity, innovation and commitment. This certification is given to companies who have concretely developed a ground-breaking project to organize their production by leveraging the potential of digital.

The AIF bestowed Lectra with this distinction for its competitiveness concerning cost, quality and delivery times, all obtained thanks to a lean approach and reflection around the design of its products. Further, Lectra received the certification for its competitiveness regarding value, achieved thanks to mastering customer use from which new associated services have flowed. Since 2013, Lectra has invested €86 million in R&D, representing 9.4% of its revenues. This Investment has enabled Lectra to undergo a metamorphosis—based on methodological advances and fundamental technologies—increasing recruitment and growing competitiveness in all of its markets and geographical sectors.

With ten years’ experience in the industrial internet of things for cutting and expertise in software Solutions to automate and optimize design and product development, Lectra is in an unrivalled position to Support customers as they enter the ‘industry of the future’ era.

Pressure from certain shareholders to relocate manufacturing to China in 2005, triggered Lectra’s industrial project. Following risk analyses—the cost of transport for the European market, the turnover in qualified labor, uncertainty over patent rights and quality—Lectra decided to keep manufacturing in France. This choice was conditional on: disruptive innovation; upgrading; increased value to customers; and a rise in productivity.

The project was accompanied by a well-structured lean approach and organizational changes, which enabled Lectra to achieve the desired level of excellence in terms of productivity and competitiveness.

Some of the changes that took place thanks to this project are as follows: Growth in industrial performance due to an improvement in working conditions, with teams involved in the lean approach; Production engineers involved in creating awareness around factory constraints for a new offer as early as the design process. This co-design product/process optimizes global costs; Emphasis on product, process and logistics’ modularity with the latest possible integration of options (delayed differentiation). This enables logistics’ constraints to be taken into account as early as the engineering phase. Product modularity allows, for example, machines to be put in containers when they might otherwise require special heavy-goods transport.

Lectra’s factory improved its productivity rate by 18 points in three years, and has since maintained it at 89%. Costs have already reduced by 25% and the quality and level of service has improved. In terms of positioning, Lectra has confirmed its leadership in the high-end segment. Lectra has enriched its offer with end-to-end services and innovative, connected products whose embedded intelligence offers Smart Services, notably for predictive maintenance.

Up To Date Laundry, Baltimore, has again achieved Hygienically Clean (HC) Healthcare certification, reflecting their commitment to best management practices (BMPs) in laundering as verified by on-site inspection and their capability to produce hygienically clean textiles as quantified by ongoing microbial testing.
Up-To-Date was first certified in 2014. Recertification confirms the organization’s continuing dedication to infection prevention, compliance with recognized industry standards and processing healthcare textiles using BMPs as described in its quality assurance documentation, a focal point for Hygienically Clean inspectors’ evaluation. The independent, third-party inspection must also confirm essential evidence that:
• Employees are properly trained and protected
• Managers understand regulatory requirements
• OSHA-compliant
• Physical plant operates effectively

To achieve certification initially, laundries pass three rounds of outcome-based microbial testing, indicating that their processes are producing Hygienically Clean Healthcare textiles and zero presence of yeast, mold and harmful bacteria. They also must pass a facility inspection. To maintain their certification, they must pass quarterly testing to ensure that as laundry conditions change, such as water quality, textile fabric composition and wash chemistry, laundered product quality is consistently maintained. Re-inspection occurs every two to three years.
This process eliminates subjectivity by focusing on outcomes and results that verify textiles cleaned in these facilities meet appropriate hygienically clean standards and BMPs for hospitals, surgery centers, medical offices, nursing homes and other medical facilities.

Hygienically Clean Healthcare certification acknowledges laundries’ effectiveness in protecting healthcare operations by verifying quality control procedures in linen, uniform and facility services operations related to the handling of textiles containing blood and other potentially infectious materials.
Certified laundries use processes, chemicals and BMPs acknowledged by the federal Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), Centers for Medicare and Medicaid Services, Association for the Advancement of Medical Instrumentation, American National Standards Institute and others. Introduced in 2012, Hygienically Clean Healthcare brought to North America the international cleanliness standards for healthcare linens and garments used worldwide by the Certification Association for Professional Textile Services and the European Committee for Standardization.
Objective experts in epidemiology, infection control, nursing and other healthcare professions work with Hygienically Clean launderers to ensure the certification continues to enforce the highest standards for producing clean healthcare textiles.
“Congratulations to Up To Date Laundry on their recertification,” said Joseph Ricci, TRSA president and CEO. “This achievement proves their ongoing commitment to infection prevention and that their laundry facilities take every step possible to prevent human illness.”

Lectra has leveraged more than 10 years of experience in connected manufacturing to offer Versalis®, an innovative digital solution designed to cut leather without compromise on quality. Featuring a powerful automatic nesting system for overall improvements in efficiency, the fully automated solution enables automotive leather suppliers to cut costs, improve productivity and minimize waste while also establishing a pathway to value-added Industry 4.0 processes.

Currently, almost 90% of leather used for automotive applications is cut using manual die presses, which require designers to build a physical prototype and finalize the design through trial and error. Lectra offers a fully digitalized leather solution from prototyping to cut parts—when used in combination with Lectra’s 3D prototyping and pattern-making software, Versalis digital leather cutting solution enables a 12-16 week reduction in development and launch cycles for vehicle seating models.
During the leather-cutting phase, the latest release of Versalis LeatherSuite allows automotive leather suppliers to achieve up to 15% greater productivity. Lectra’s end-to-end automotive leather offering furthermore guarantees optimal uptime through an extensive worldwide support network of field engineers and technical experts.
"Lectra focuses on a consultative approach that allows it to fully understand the customer’s needs before building a solution comprising software, hardware, consulting, training, and after-sales support,” said Frost & Sullivan Industry Analyst Kamalesh Mohanarangam. "Lectra’s equipment is fitted with more than 200 sensors that predict failure and immediately report issues to its call centres. This product feature and service has resulted in 98% uptime and very fast mean time to repair."

Although digital leather cutting solutions are an investment, leather cutters and Tier-1 suppliers have begun to recognize the value of these products. On average, Lectra’s solutions help customers achieve up to 7% savings on leather compared to manual die-press methods by minimizing human error and variability in the cutting room. A benchmark test of leather trim cutting for door panels demonstrated a 3.5% gain in material made possible by Versalis’ superior nesting capabilities compared to the customer’s yield using manual nesting with die press machines, representing potential savings of €9 million per year.
Versalis is the fruit of significant R&D investment for the company, which has always made re-investment of capital a priority. As part of a transformational plan, Lectra spent more than €50 million in investments between 2011 and 2015. With Lectra’s new strategy focusing on supporting their customers’ transition to Industry 4.0 standards, Lectra will increase the share of revenues dedicated to R&D to 10% for the period from 2017 to 2019, representing a rise of about 50% between 2016 and 2019.

Over three years, this new Chair aims to help the fashion industry’s eco-system—from textile design to clothing sales—transform challenges coming from new ways of living and consuming into economic opportunities.
“How to find and develop sustainable materials which will open up new markets for companies in the sector? Which technologies to invent to make the most of these new materials? How to organize the factory of the future to meet new consumer expectations, such as customization? It’s an entire economy that we aim to develop around emerging industries,” explains Jean-Pierre Mocho, the founder of JPS Conseil and former President of the French federation for women’s ready-to-wear. “There are many opportunities to seize, on condition that all the players, both old and new, work together.”
To help textile and apparel companies to innovate, the Chair will combine knowledge sharing with open innovation. In particular, a technical training facility will adapt and pass on material-related savoir-faire. “This Chair will help us to better understand the changes that are necessary in the sector, to anticipate innovations and to circulate knowledge worldwide,” underlines Patxi Elissalde, director, ESTIA. “Based in Biarritz and founded with a long-term vision, this Chair will dive into user behaviors, materials and components, manufacturing technologies and services, the digitalization of processes, and the distribution of products, from clothes to accessories.”

This approach will also foster interactions between different professions in order to stimulate creativity. Inspired by overarching principles in the collaborative and circular economy, the Chair also aims to capitalize on advances in research, from frugal or disruptive innovation.

Vor dem Hintergrund globaler Megatrends, wie der Verknappung von natürlichen Ressourcen bei einer gleichzeitig zunehmend individualisierten Lebensweise, stellen Energiespeicherung und Leichtbau wesentliche Schlüsseltechnologien unter anderem im Bereich innovativer Mobilitätskonzepte dar. Eine besondere Bedeutung bei der Entwicklung neuer Hightech-Produkte in diesen Branchen am Standort Sachsen spielt der nachhaltige Einsatz von neuartigen anforderungsgerechten Werkstoffen mit hoher Funktionsdichte, wofür Kohlenstofffasern ein enormes Potenzial aufweisen.
Wissenschaftlern der TU Dresden (TUD) ist es gelungen, eine interdisziplinäre Nachwuchsforschergruppe „e -Carbon“ (ESF-SAB 100310387), bestehend aus Chemikern, Textilern und Kunststofftechnikern ins Leben zu rufen, die in den nächsten 3 Jahren, beginnend ab 1. Juli 2017, maßgeschneiderte und multifunktionale Kohlenstofffasern für die Speicherung hoher Energiedichten gemeinsam entwickeln wird. Dieses zukunftsträchtige Projekt wurde von der TU Dresden und der Sächsischen Aufbaubank SAB-ESF aus mehr als 40 Anträgen als zukunftsweisendes Projekt ausgewählt.
Die komplexe Themenstellung wird durch Nachwuchswissenschaftler der TUD vom Institut für Textilmaschinen und Textile Hochleistungswerkstofftechnik (ITM), Institut für Leichtbau und Kunststofftechnik (ILK) sowie von der Professur für Anorganische Chemie I (AC1) bearbeitet. Durch die interdisziplinäre Ausrichtung des Konsortiums werden die besten Voraussetzungen mit weltweitem Alleinstellungsmerkmal für eine intensive wissenschaftliche und industrielle Vernetzung der Nachwuchsforscher in neuen Forschungsgebieten mit hoher praktischer Relevanz auf regionaler, nationaler und internationaler Ebene geschaffen. Das Hauptaugenmerk liegt dabei auf der Qualifizierung und Weiterbildung von Fachkräften für den sächsischen Arbeitsmarkt sowie auf der Ausgründung von Start-Ups und der Übernahme unternehmerischer Verantwortung in der Hochtechnologiebranche.
Professor Chokri Cherif, Koordinator der Nachwuchsforschergruppe und Direktor des ITM: „Die Arbeiten der Nachwuchsforschergruppe geben die Initialzündung für die weiterführende Grundlagen- und anwendungsorientierte Forschung auf dem Gebiet der Kohlenstofffasern. Wir werden einen neuen Maßstab in der Kohlenstofffaserentwicklung setzen und besondere Impulse weltweit ausstrahlen.“

On the occasion of the State Visit to Italy by Their Majesties The King and Queen of The Netherlands and a Dutch trade delegation led by the Minister for Foreign Trade and Development Cooperation, Mrs Lilianne Ploumen, the Italian and Dutch fashion and textile industry will join hands.
MODINT, the Dutch association for the Fashion and Textile industries and lead of the fashion mission and Sistema Moda Italia (SMI), the Italian association for the Fashion and Textile supply chain in Italy, have concluded a Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) which emphasizes the growing interaction between the Dutch and Italian fashion and textile industries.
During the Best of Both Event on Friday June 23rd in Milan, the Minister and a delegation of Dutch and Italian VIP’s and innovators active in the Fashion and Textile industry will witness the signing of a promising Memorandum of Understanding (MoU). The MoU defines actions by MODINT and SMI to help the Dutch and Italian fashion and textile industries work together on recycling, labour standards, sustainable raw materials and domestic production.
Modint and SMI are both members of the International Apparel Federation (IAF), an international organisation that supports industry development by helping to build intelligent connections among its members. In the MoU, Italian and Dutch businesses will explain how they cooperate, how they can support sustainable value chains, how they envision their business growing together in the coming years, and what their respective governments can do to support that growth.

At the “Future of Composites in Construction” trade show, CHOMARAT and ALTUS GROUP are presenting CarbonCast®, their flagship line of reinforced-concrete prefabricated wall panels, reinforced with CHOMARAT’s C-GRID® carbon-fiber grids. A recent army-hospital project in Greenville, South Carolina is another success story of this innovative product: 18,600 m² (200,000 sq.ft) of precast insulated panels were installed in record time. Come and learn more about it at the McCormick Place Lakeside Center, Chicago, Stand C 10, on 20-22 June 2017.
“Reducing installation time, improving the fire and safety performance, increasing the service life of structures, and cutting energy consumption are crucial criteria in the choice of a CarbonCast solution,” explains ALTUS GROUP Executive Director John CARSON. CarbonCast® panels are classified ASHRAE 90.1. Thanks to the low thermal conductivity of carbon fiber, C-GRID® reinforced panels offer excellent thermal performance, providing uniform insulation and, therefore, a comfortable, energy-efficient building.

The session will explore what the digital revolution means for business, and how innovations in manufacturing are the new reality that help create sustainable products that last and can be scaled to suit each actor through smart customization.
IMPRIMA S.p.a. is the global holding company dedicated to research, development and innovation in the textile printing and finishing arena. It is the first Fully Digital Industrial Platform, that today can offer a fully digitalized process in every step of its manufacture. Thanks to the acquisition of 100% of the German finishing and textile printing company KBC and 100% the Italian company GUARISCO by WISE SGR, Imprima is enriched by an international outlook that makes it extremely competitive in the market, which will be reinforced in the coming months with additional acquisitions in Italy and abroad, taking care to maintain best practices in terms of quality and service and the business identity of each company. In this way, Imprima represents a preferred partner for the fashion retailers.
IMPRIMA boasts a Total Water Management guarantee through its own chemical/physical process of water depuration technologies able to reduce the consumption of water up to 90%, avoiding effluents, by circulating it in a virtuous recycling process, for example now needing only 1 liter of water compared to traditionally 12 liters needed in the past.

In May 2017, Jochen Adler, Vice-President and Chief Technology Officer at Oerlikon Textile GmbH & Co. KG, presented a Oerlikon Barmag take-up winder as a partial gift to Prof. Dr Thomas Gries, head of the Institut für Textiltechnik (ITA) at RWTH Aachen University. The new Type ASW602 winder, which is equipped with modern control software and user interface, replaces the former institute’s Barmag take-up winder.

Due to this modernisation, ITA has access to a latest generation take-up winder which is used for various research projects. The new winder is applied at ITA’s two pilot melt spinning plants and ensures the transfer of new research and development insights into the pilot scale. Furthermore, this winder has two winding positions and operates with winding speeds between 2500 m/min and 5500 m/min. The new winder is suitable for all kinds of polymers, from polypropylene to polyethylene, polyester, polyamide etc. as well as for the production of several types of yarn, such as industrial yarn, pre-oriented yarn and fully-drawn yarn.
“We thank Oerlikon Barmag for the generous partial gifting and the support during the set-up of the new take-up winder”, says Prof. Dr Thomas Gries. “The new equipment will keep the institute’s machine park on a high and powerful level.” The head of ITA’s chemical fibre department Dr Thorsten Anders adds: “This winder is designed for the needs of chemical yarn research. It allows state of the art technology research and development and pilot-scale production. We will use it for the melt spinning plants in the single- and bi-component spinning process. This way, we can access a wide variety of producible yarn types.“