From the Sector

With total sales of EUR 1,543 million, generated by over 30 production and sales units in Europe, Asia, and America, Radici Group closed its 2022 financial year with slight growth over 2021. EBITDA reached EUR 157 million in 2022, and net income for the year was EUR 80 million.

“We are moderately pleased with the 2022 figures,” Angelo Radici, president of RadiciGroup, commented. “Despite an unpredictable and challenging year, we were able to achieve positive results. Although the rise in energy costs began to be felt in January, we managed to maintain our position in the first three months of the year due to a significant increase in demand. From the second quarter onwards, the European market experienced a significant slowdown due to the outbreak of war in Ukraine, which exacerbated the already soaring costs of energy and raw materials. The situation was completely out of hand and made worse by the fact that some raw materials were not available. This created significant challenges for us, especially in the chemical sector. We even had to stop operations at our Novara plant in the latter part of the year. Products similar to ours in the nylon supply chain from China and the US were being sold at a price lower than our variable cost.”

The president continues: “At Group level, our internationalisation strategy helped us mitigate geopolitical risks in various countries. As a result, we were able to offset the challenges in the European chemicals and textile markets by leveraging our global presence in High Performance Polymers, where our numbers have held strong. As we began 2023, we regained our footing. However, the global economic and industrial scenario for the rest of the year remains highly uncertain, and forecasts are notably cautious.”

Even in these difficult times, the Group has continued to invest. In 2022, the High Performance Polymers Business Area completed the acquisition in India of the engineering plastics branch of Ester Industries Ltd, a listed company. Additionally, it began installing two new production lines in Mexico and Brazil, and confirmed plans to install a new extrusion line at the Villa d’Ogna production site in the province of Bergamo. These choices align with the Group’s goal of enhancing its worldwide presence and boosting competitiveness in high-potential growth markets. In a year where energy and raw material costs were certainly problematic, operating in geographically diverse markets and with varied applications proved to be an important tool in addressing the challenges. In this vein, a new production site spanning over 36,000 square metres has recently been inaugurated in China. The move is aimed at doubling the production capacity in line with the market’s growth expectations.

Extending the time horizon to 2018-2022, the Group has invested over EUR 277 million to enhance the competitiveness of its companies, implement Best Available Techniques, improve energy efficiency, reduce emissions, and conduct research and development activities aimed at introducing sustainable processes and solutions. These efforts include the research and development activities of Radici InNova, which are heavily focused on the circular economy.

Dr. Laurie-Ann Agama, Acting Assistant U.S. Trade Representative (USTR) for Textiles, wrapped up a three-day visit of state-of-the art U.S. textile manufacturing facilities in North and South Carolina, highlighting the importance of trade policies that bolster the competitiveness of the vibrant domestic supply chain that contributes significantly to the U.S. economy and workforce.

Dr. Agama, who advises the nation’s top trade chief on textile and apparel trade policy matters and conducts and oversees negotiations affecting textiles and apparel products, was joined by USTR textile trade officials in touring seven textile manufacturers including: Glen Raven, Barnet, Standard Textile, Parkdale Mills, Beverly Knits, Gildan, and Unifi.

Her three-day tour culminated in an industry roundtable discussion with key textile executives hosted by Unifi, in Greensboro, N.C.

U.S. textile executives spanning the fiber, yarn, fabric, and finished product textile and apparel industries participated in the roundtable and outlined critical policies, such as: the importance of maintaining the yarn forward rule of origin in the Dominican Republic-Central America Free Trade Agreement (CAFTA-DR) and other trade agreements; advancing the Miscellaneous Tariff Bill (MTB) and its importance to domestic manufacturers; closing the de minimis loophole in U.S. trade law; addressing larger systemic trade issues, particularly the use of forced labor, with China; and upholding buy American and Berry Amendment government procurement policies.

“We deeply appreciate Assistant USTR Agama’s visit to the heart of the U.S. textile industry in North and South Carolina this week to meet with U.S. textile executives and experience first-hand the breadth of the industry’s innovation, advanced sustainability practices, capital investments and critical contributions to local economies and the U.S. economy as a whole,” said Kim Glas, president and CEO of NCTO. “The three-day visit by Dr. Agama and the USTR textile team included facility tours of several NCTO member companies, all of which have made major investments in state-of-the-art manufacturing facilities that are part of a broader domestic industry supply chain that produced $65.8 billion in output in 2022 and employed 538,000 workers.”

Glas continued: “We are also grateful for Dr. Agama’s participation in the industry roundtable hosted by Unifi and substantive discussions around policy opportunities and challenges. We look forward to working closely with Dr. Agama, the USTR textile team and U.S. Trade Representative Ambassador Katherine Tai to advance policies that provide incentives for onshoring and nearshoring production and bolstering the industry’s competitiveness, while enforcing policies that address illegal trade practices that undermine this industry.”

“The U.S. textile industry has always been resilient, innovative, and a driving force of our nation’s competitiveness,” said Acting Assistant U.S. Trade Representative for Textiles Dr. Laurie-Ann Agama. “For USTR, this local engagement and conversations underscore our need to create trade policies that put workers first and promote inclusive economic growth. The spinning, knitting, and weaving operations of the textile industry are at the center of many communities across the Carolinas. This was another opportunity to hear first-hand how we trade can create jobs that allow workers, businesses, and communities to thrive.”

DyStar, a specialty chemical company with a heritage of more than a century in product development and innovation, is announcing the sale of its auxiliary manufacturing site located at Pietermaritzburg, South Africa.

Oakland Polymers Pty Ltd, a local manufacturer, has acquired DyStar’s manufacturing facility and will take over the site to expand their polymer business. Under the sale and purchase agreement, DyStar divested the entire facility, which is approximately 12,000 sqm, to Oakland Polymers and Oakland Properties. DyStar Africa’s operations will continue to lease part of the premises from Oakland for office and warehousing use.

Mr. Xu Yalin, Managing Director, and President of DyStar Group said, “The sale of the manufacturing site at DyStar Africa is part of our ongoing efforts to reconsolidate our business resources in Turkey, Africa & Middle East (TAME) region, with a focus on improving productivity and utilization rates.”

As a result of the acquisition, all employees at the manufacturing site have already been informed. Compensation packages are offered to affected colleagues as well.

Customers have also been informed of undisrupted supply to their orders during the transition period and are further assured of a seamless customer journey going forward when the acquisition is completed.

2^nd Denim Innovation Night presented by Pacific Jeans was held during the 14^th Bangladesh Denim Expo to showcase the innovation in the country’s denim industry.

The show displayed the very latest in sustainably produced and innovative denim products from Pacific Jeans to apparel brands and retailers, embassy representatives, development partners and to the representatives of the industry supply chain.

About 500 invited guests got the opportunity to witness the denim research, design and production innovation provided by the Bangladeshi denim Group highlighting the breadth and depth of denim innovation available in the country – from fibre, through to fabrics, design, manufacture and finishing.

Pacific Jeans Limited manufactures premium jeans in Bangladesh and exports to over 50 countries. With a continuous focus on quality improvement and value addition, adoption of updated denim processing technology, commitment towards safe and sustainable industry, the group has become one of the preferred suppliers to leading global fashion retailers.

The program was inaugurated by Commerce Minister Tipu Munshi, MP; while the Head of the Delegation of the European Union in Bangladesh H.E. Charles Whiteley was the Guest of Honor; President of Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) Faruque Hassan and Country Representative of the Japan External Trade Organization (JETRO) in Bangladesh Yuji Ando were special guests at the program.

The 1st Denim Innovation Night was presented by Pacific Jeans during the 7th edition of Bangladesh Denim Expo in November 2017.

The textile machinery orders index for the first quarter of 2023, as processed by the Economics Office of ACIMIT, the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers, declined markedly compared to January-March 2022 (-35%). In absolute terms, the index stood at 84.8 points (basis: 2015=100).

This result is mainly due to a reduction in the orders intake recorded by manufacturers on foreign markets. Indeed, foreign orders dropped by 40%, whereas the domestic market showed a 14% increase. The absolute value of the index settled at 78.3 points abroad, while it measured in at 148.1 points in Italy. During this year’s first quarter, booked orders stood at 4.2 months of guaranteed production.

ACIMIT president Alessandro Zucchi stated that, “The order index for the first quarter confirm a trend of the past few quarters, where uncertainty still predominates in global markets, both in terms of a macroeconomic framework that is characterized by a penalizing inflationary trend and ongoing geopolitical tensions. This is a scenario that this does not facilitate investment plans for businesses.”

However, this uncertainty does not appear to affect the sector’s operators, who are nonetheless permeated by a sense of optimism, as is also testified by the positive data drawn from a comparison with orders from the previous quarter (October-December 2022), for which total orders had been slightly on the rise at +3%. Indeed, the president of ACIMIT confirms that, “Manufacturers in our sector don’t lack for work, having filled up on orders last year and are now busy fulfilling them. The forecasts for 2023 remain positive”. Zucchi concluded, “I expect this confirmation of a healthy manufacturing sector to come from ITMA Milan, the world’s premier trade show dedicated to textile and clothing technologies, slated to open on June 8th at the Rho Fiera exhibition spaces. The exhibit will feature over 400 Italian manufacturers, taking up approximately 30% of the entire exhibition space. This figure is in itself a result that confirms the leadership role of Italy’s textile machinery manufacturers”.

Lectra’s Annual Shareholders’ Meeting held on April 28 appointed two new Directors, Karine Calvet and Pierre-Yves Roussel for a four-year term. They both will become members of the Strategic Committee, replacing Bernard Jourdan, Lead Director, and Anne Binder. Karine Calvet also becomes a member of the Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) Committee.

With its new strategic roadmap for 2023-2025, the Group aims to use its expansion – mainly due to the acquisition of Gerber in June 2021 – to accelerate its growth, significantly increase the share of SaaS in its sales, and seize opportunities for external growth. Supported by the commitment of its staff and recognized by its customers, Lectra will also be at the forefront of a more sustainable future.

Karine Calvet is Vice-President EMEA responsible for Partners at AVEVA, a subsidiary of Schneider Electric. She began her career at CGI in 1993 and has spent most of it in IT: sixteen years in services companies, seven years in telecommunications, and six years in software. She has had leadership roles in telecommunications environments for leading global companies (CGI, Capgemini, Alcatel-Lucent, Verizon, Microsoft and currently Schneider-Aveva), focusing on digital transformation. Karine Calvet served as Head of Industry at Capgemini, then managed worldwide teams at Alcatel-Lucent as Vice-President, Eastern Europe then at Verizon as Managing Director. Her time at Microsoft strengthened her software expertise, her direct and indirect channels skills, and her experience in IT services. In the last two years, as Vice-President, Southern Europe then Vice-President, Partners and Alliances at Schneider-Aveva, Karine Calvet has worked closely with industrial companies to help them meet the challenges of operational efficiency, safety, cost management, sustainability and decarbonization by taking advantage of digitalization.

Pierre-Yves Roussel has been CEO of leading US fashion label Tory Burch since January 2019. He began his career in investment banking with HSBC in Brussels, then at Morgan Stanley in London. In 1990, he joined management consulting firm McKinsey & Company in France, where he led numerous consultancy assignments in the fashion, luxury, distribution and media sectors in Europe and Asia. In 1998, he was elected Partner then, in 2004, Global Senior Partner (Director). In 2004, he joined the LVMH Group Executive Committee as Executive Vice-President, Strategy and Operations, reporting directly to Bernard Arnault. In 2006, he was appointed Chairman and CEO of LVMH Fashion Group, one of the LVMH Group’s five branches of operational activity. From 2006 to 2018, he was Chairman of the Board of the brands Céline, Givenchy, Loewe, Kenzo, Pucci, Rossimoda, Marc Jacobs, Donna Karan, Berluti, JW Anderson and Nicolas Kirkwood. He has also been a member on several prestigious fashion juries including Andam, CFDA Fashion Incubator, and the LVMH Fashion Prize. He was a member of the management committee of the Chambre Syndicale de la Mode et de la Couture from 2010 to 2018. In 2018, he left the LVMH Group to take up the post of CEO – based in New York – of the company Tory Burch. Founded by his wife in 2004, the private family-run company has more than 350 stores worldwide, 13 retail websites, and nearly 5,000 employees.

DyStar announces the plan to restructure its Ludwigshafen facility located in Germany. The strategic decision is made by the company in response to changing business conditions and market shifts.

Mr. Xu Yalin, Managing Director, and President of DyStar Group said, “This is an important strategic move for DyStar. We will focus on developing key emerging markets, which have been shifting over a decade. In the wake of higher energy costs and inflation, DyStar is determined to further improve cost efficiency and drive sustainable productivity as we continue to deliver the highest quality of innovative products that support the global supply chain.”

Mr. Eric Hopmann, Chief Commercial Officer of DyStar Group said, “The restructuring of this facility will be carried out in a phased manner. DyStar will diversify the production activity out of Europe and start with the reduction of manpower as a consequence. DyStar’s customers can be further assured of undisrupted supply, hence their production should not be affected as we will work closely to meet their specific requirements.”

The facility has been an integral part of DyStar’s global network. DyStar inherited this facility from their founders who started the Indigo research and manufacturing more than 125 years ago.

UK advanced materials and technology firm Hypetex, a manufacturer of coloured carbon fibre, has appointed Michael Dowse as a Non-Executive Director and Board Member.

Dowse brings experiences across sport and retail, following leadership roles at some of the biggest sports organisations and companies in the world. He was a Global Director for Nike before becoming President and General Manager Outdoor Americas for Amer Sports, managing brands such as Salomon, Arc’Teryx and Suunto.

As President of Wilson Sporting Goods (2013-2019), Dowse led 1,500+ colleagues in delivering the company’s global strategy, corporate operations, and manufacturing across more than 160 countries. He then took up the position of Chief Executive Officer and Executive Director of the United States Tennis Association (2020-2022).

Dowse will join a group of advisors at Hypetex, which includes Board Chairman Neil MacDougall and former Diageo Chief Financial Officer Nick Rose. They will support CEO Marc Cohen and Chief Technology Officer Nigel Dunlea as they continue to expand the company’s presence in sport and other sectors worldwide.

Archroma announced the closing of the acquisition of the Textile Effects business from Huntsman Corporation (“Huntsman Textile Effects”).

When the Huntsman Textile Effects acquisition was first announced in August 2022, Archroma Group Chief Executive Officer (CEO) Heike van de Kerkhof called the transaction a “merger of equals”. Indeed, the global business of Huntsman Textile Effects comprises approximately 2,300 employees in 33 countries and 10 production sites globally which, when combined with Archroma, means the company will have more than 5,000 employees in total, in 42 countries and 35 production sites.

In addition to the closing of the Textile Effects acquisition, Archroma announced that it has updated its overall business into two operating divisions for growth, each focused on a separate end market.

The Textile Effects business acquired from Huntsman will be integrated with the Brand & Performance Textile Specialties business of Archroma into one new division named Archroma Textile Effects. The new division will be led by Rohit Aggarwal, former President of Huntsman Textile Effects, who is appointed as Divisional President & CEO of the Archroma Textile Effects division, as well as President Asia.

The Packaging & Paper Specialties and Coatings, Adhesives & Sealants businesses of Archroma have been recently combined into one new division named Archroma Paper, Packaging & Coatings, under the leadership of Sameer Singla, Divisional President & CEO of the Archroma Paper, Packaging & Coatings division, as well as President Americas and Europe, Middle East & Africa.

This new structure will ensure that both divisions obtain the resources and focus needed to continue providing Archroma’s customers and business partners with the superior experience and solutions they have come to expect.

In particular, Archroma is committed to supporting global megatrends and societal shifts such as circular fashion, plastic-to-paper replacement, and water-based paints and coatings, with the innovations and solutions needed to do so.

INDEX, a leading nonwovens exhibition, will take place in Geneva. About 90 Italian exhibitors will be present at this edition, including over 40 machinery manufacturers. As in past editions, ITA – Italian Trade Agengy, in cooperation with ACIMIT, the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers, has organized an exhibition space reserved for companies manufacturing machinery for the sector. There will be 12 exhibiting companies in the Italian pavilion. Of these, the ACIMIT members are: Bematic, Bombi, Bonino, Dell’Orco & Villani, Ferraro, Loptex, Ommi, Rf Systems, Texera, Zappa Macchine. Other ACIMIT member companies will exhibit fair with their own booths.

The nonwovens sector has grown significantly in recent years. According to EDANA, the association grouping European companies operating in the sector, after the impressive growth in the previous year, the production volume of nonwovens grew by 2% in 2021, exceeding 3 million tonnes.

“The growth in nonwovens production has also driven the demand of machinery for nonwovens, comments Alessandro Zucchi, president of ACIMIT. The Italian technological supply has consequently expanded. At the 2023 INDEX edition, the presence of a significant number of Italian machinery manufacturers testifies their desire to play a leading role also in the production of machinery for nonwovens”.

The trend of Italian exports testifies the strong increase in production of nonwovens machinery. Indeed in 2021 Italian sales abroad reached a value of 102 million euro (+77% over the previous year) and in the first nine months of 2022, the value of Italian exports stood at 92 million euro.