From the Sector

Textile waste is a problem in Europe. Out of 7-7.5 million tonnes of textiles discarded every year, 30-35 % are collected separately – and of that quantity, 15-20 % are sorted by medium and larger sorting facilities within the EU. After sorting, 60 % still qualify as wearable clothes, however after a second or third collection-loop, all of the textiles become non-wearable sooner or later. Therefore, fibre-to-fibre recycling is becoming increasingly important to preserve the valuable resources.
 
The textile recycling value chain is not yet mature, but we are on the verge of a turning point, as different fibre-recycling technologies are deployed on a large scale. If successful, the textile recycling industry could reach a recycling rate of 18 to 26 percent of gross textile waste in 2030. This would create economic, social and environmental value that could total 3.5 to 4.5 billion euros in 2030.

Today, there is a sorting gap to achieve a circular economy for textiles in Europe. To feed this new circular value chain, a significant sorting-capacity increase is needed with 150 to 250 sorting and recycling facilities nearby, as the McKinsey-study “turning waste into value” assessed.

There is also a technology and capacity gap in sorting for reuse and recycling to ensure that high quality raw materials from non-wearable textile waste can be made available on a large scale. This is why the “Transform Textile Waste into Feedstock” project was initiated by TEXAID, within the ReHubs initiative together with well-known stakeholders of the textile value chain.

The major outcome of this project will be a sorting-factory blueprint fulfilling the requirements to the future needs of fibre-to-fibre recycling, enabling the future of more sustainable textiles by using recycled fibres. TEXAID, who is leading the project, is committed to build and operate scalable sorting facilities across Europe, the first with a capacity of 50,000 tonnes by the end of 2024.

Companies like Concordia, CuRe Technology, Decathlon, Inditex, Indorama Ventures, L’Atelier des Matières, Lenzing, Marchi & Fildi, PurFi, Södra, Worn Again and others are taking part in the project to jointly evaluate technologies and the business case for scaled sorting for reuse and recycling. ITA Academy GmbH (in cooperation with RWTH Aachen) together with CETIA has been commissioned for the assessment of technologies. The outcome will be an innovative sorting system 4.0, building on cross-functional technologies with digitalization and automation are at the heart.

The Organic Cotton & Textiles Conference, taking place in Indore, India over three days, from February 27-March 1^st is set to bring together a diverse group of key players from every part of the textile supply chain. Farmers, farm groups, industry representatives, non-profits, academics, suppliers, brands, certifiers, government representatives and policymakers will join nearly 200 guests at the multi-day event. The aim is to foster collaboration, explore innovative ideas, listen to those on the ground and focus discussions to develop a shared vision to boost the organic textile supply chain worldwide.

Co-hosted by  OCA, GOTS, and IFOAM - Organics International, the conference will address a range of subjects including social conditions, transparency through innovation, scaling up organic through investment, as well as sessions tackling certification, decent work and environmental impacts. The event also gives voice to farmers, who join as panellists, in a dedicated Q&A session with seven organic cotton farmers from the region. On the third day, organised by OCA, the organic farmers will welcome attendees to their communities during field trips west to Petlawad to witness organic practices at ground level.

“By addressing these important issues and fostering a dialogue between participants, the conference aims to develop innovative solutions that can drive progress and growth in the sector", says Bart Vollaard, Executive Director of OCA. "We are thrilled to be joining forces with GOTS and IFOAM to create positive change in the organic textile sector."

“Together with IFOAM - Organics International and OCA, GOTS wants to increase visibility of organic and at the same time enhance integrity of organic fibres and textiles. This conference shall serve to strengthen the sector by addressing obstacles and work on effective solutions, in consultation with all relevant and committed stakeholders”, notes Claudia Kersten, Managing Director of GOTS.

Sarah Compson of the IFOAM - Organics International World Board adds “Organic agriculture directly addresses some of the most pressing challenges of our time. IFOAM - Organics International is delighted to collaborate with OCA and GOTS to bring together people from across the whole textile sector and address the barriers and opportunities for scaling organic cotton production worldwide.”

With a strong line-up of notable speakers and guests in a supportive and engaging atmosphere, and a unique approach that connects participants from every step of the supply chain, the Organic Cotton & Textiles Conference is set to be a valuable and transformative event for key stakeholders involved in the organic textile industry.

Global Fashion Summit, a leading international forum for sustainability in fashion, will convene core stakeholders across the fashion ecosystem and parallel industries to drive tangible action on social and environmental sustainability. The Summit is presented by Global Fashion Agenda (GFA). GFA is a non-profit organisation that is accelerating the transition to a net positive fashion industry, under the patronage of HRH The Crown Princess of Denmark. Global Fashion Summit: Copenhagen Edition 2023 will take place on 27-28 June in Copenhagen, Denmark.

The theme of Global Fashion Summit: Copenhagen Edition 2023 is ‘Ambition to Action’. Under this premise, the Summit will present content experiences focused on tangible impact.

The theme will underly all elements of the Summit and Main Stage speakers will showcase inspiring thought leadership for accelerated change by exploring a matrix of interconnected topics. The 2023 Copenhagen Edition will build on more than a decade’s worth of Summit guidance and outcomes by dedicating even more focus towards action-oriented workshops and case studies. Through these formats, the forum will demonstrate tangible learnings and concrete recommendations that can help drive implementation.
 
The forum will also host strategic roundtable meetings with the aim to mobilise industry leaders to build alliances with solution providers, policy makers, investors and other industry stakeholders and implement immediate solutions. Such alliances can set in motion progress towards a net positive industry. With upcoming policy expected to influence the fashion industry even further this year, the Summit will shed light on the ongoing pieces of legislation currently under discussion both within the EU and worldwide.

This year’s Global Fashion Summit: Copenhagen Edition is supported by Principal Sponsor, Maersk. A globally renowned leader in logistics that aims to deliver a more connected, agile and sustainable future for global logistics. Maersk will support the Summit's agenda to accelerate industry transformation by highlighting how logistics can help the fashion and lifestyle industry in reaching their sustainability goals.

Additionally, the Innovation Forum will present a curated exhibition of other leading sustainable solutions. Summit attendees can meet with exhibitors covering the entire value chain – from innovative materials to end-of-use solutions. Innovation Forum Matchmaking will enable small and large fashion businesses to advance their sustainability journey, by providing the unique opportunity to be matched with relevant solution providers. 

Sustainable solutions provider Perstorp has added new corporate sustainability targets, for water and waste, to its sustainability strategy. Its long-term sustainability ambition is to become Finite Material Neutral, which involves water and waste, along with raw materials, energy and catalysts. In 2021 the company set its first 2030 targets, for greenhouse gas emissions (using approved science-based targets) and (eco) toxic impact. Now Perstorp has added new sustainability targets that will address its long-term ambition.

These new 2030 corporate targets (all measured using 2019 as the base year) are:

• 30% absolute reduction of freshwater consumption
• 30% absolute reduction of hazardous waste directed to disposal
• 30% absolute reduction of non-hazardous waste directed to disposal

"Fresh water consumption and waste are two areas of big importance in reducing our environmental impact and working toward increased circularity," says Anna Berggren, Vice President Sustainability at Perstorp Group. "Fresh water scarcity is already a fact around the world, and we have a responsibility to reduce our consumption and utilize alternative water sources. We must also minimize waste generation and find new circular solutions of reusing and recycling the waste streams into new products, either ourselves or so that a third party can use them as raw material. We have set ambitious and absolute sustainability targets, that are to be achieved regardless of production growth. To be able to reach these targets we have several large projects planned that will contribute significantly."

All Perstorp production plants use water for multiple purposes, including, for example: for cooling, as a solvent for chemical reactions, as a carrier for products, and as a heat-transfer medium. One way to reduce fresh water consumption is to purify and recycle wastewater. Perstorp sees this as an important core technology and is planning to invest in wastewater recycling projects at several of its production sites.

A key to reducing waste directed to disposal is to develop circular solutions that use waste streams as raw materials for new products. One example is Project Air, in which captured carbon dioxide together with residue streams from Perstorp's production plant in Stenungsund, Sweden, will serve as raw material for production of sustainable methanol that will replace all the virgin fossil methanol used by Perstorp in Europe.

The Science Based Targets initiative (SBTi) has approved Autoneum’s science-based emissions reduction targets. The validation by the SBTi is an important milestone in Autoneum’s efforts to reduce its direct and indirect greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions along the entire value chain.

Recognizing the serious environmental challenges facing the world today and the resulting need for rapid and significant reductions in global CO₂ emissions, Autoneum has committed to reducing its absolute scope 1 and 2 GHG emissions by 20% by 2027 from a 2019 base year. The Company also commits to reduce its absolute scope 3 GHG emissions from purchased goods and services by 20% within the same timeframe. Autoneum’s GHG emission reduction targets were validated by the SBTi on January 12, 2023, and are in line with the goals of the Paris Agreement to limit global warming to well below 2°C. The Company is thus taking another important step toward a sustainable future of mobility.

An overview of all emissions reduction targets and activities implemented by Autoneum in 2022 will be published in the Company’s Corporate Responsibility Report 2022 on March 24, 2023.

From April 2023, OEKO-TEX® will officially launch its new ORGANIC COTTON label. Two initial pilot customers have already been certified by the testing service provider Hohenstein: the Indian textile supplier Milan Group and the Turkish cotton producer Akasya.

The new organic label ensures that all requirements for labeling as organic cotton are met. In addition to testing in accordance with OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100, it ensures that the cotton contains less than ten percent genetically modified material, complies with pesticide limits and guarantees its organic origin.

Textile companies whose products have been certified with the OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100 can now have their certificates extended to an ORGANIC COTTON certificate after ensuring ecological production.

"A combination with OEKO-TEX® MADE IN GREEN is ideal," explains Ivonne Schramm, Head of OEKO-TEX® at Hohenstein. "This ensures environmental friendliness, transparency and socially responsible conditions in a single certification."

The certificate can be used for ready-made articles (e.g. T-shirt, bedspread, etc.) as well as for textile intermediate products (e.g. intermediate products such as raw fibers, yarns, etc.). Mixtures of organic and conventional cultivation are not permitted.

The viscose fibre manufacturer Kelheim Fibres - exclusively using FSC® or PEFCTM certified pulps exclusively from sustainably managed sources - welcomes the preliminary political agreement reached between the European Parliament and the Council on an EU regulation on deforestation-free supply chains. The new rules, adopted at the end of 2022, are intended to prevent goods that cause forest degradation or deforestation from being placed on the EU market.

As one of the largest economies worldwide, the EU is a major consumer of wood-based raw materials. Therefore, the new law can significantly contribute to reducing global deforestation and forest degradation as well as protecting threatened forest areas.

“Wood is an incredibly versatile and valuable renewable resource and the basis for countless products. Our viscose fibres are just one example – they offer an environmentally friendly alternative to synthetic materials in various applications and are thus a promising material for the future. Of course, this only applies if the production of our raw materials does not take place at the expense of our earth's natural forest resources. These forests are a bastion of biodiversity and climate protection for our entire planet and must be protected at all costs. No one can escape this responsibility," says Craig Barker, CEO at Kelheim Fibres.

By using a high share of recycled content in its Evolon® materials, Freudenberg Performance Materials (Freudenberg) offers technical packaging textiles with a carbon footprint decreased by 35%. An independent LCA study showed additional benefits such as energy resource savings and lower water use. Furthermore, Evolon® fabrics provide sustainability benefits over the packaging entire life cycle thanks to high end performance and durability.

By replacing virgin PET with recycled PET, the cradle-to-gate carbon footprint of Evolon® packaging textile materials decreased by 35%. This is the result of a study by an independent LCA and eco-design consultancy firm, which made a Cradle-to-Gate assessment of several Evolon® products using virgin PET or recycled PET. The study was finalized in 2022 and conducted according to the principles of ISO 14040/ ISO 14044 standards, following the recommendations of the Product Environmental Footprint and the Circular Footprint Formula.

Evolon® microfilament textiles have a small carbon footprint because their manufacturing process uses low CO2 energy sources. The fabrics are lightweight and can be reused throughout entire production programs, e.g. of a car model when it is about the automotive industry. Furthermore, the new Evolon® RE fabrics contain up to 85% of recycled PET which is produced in-house out of post-consumer PET bottles.

Evolon® textiles are suitable for reusable technical packaging, which eliminate the use of thousands of disposable packaging materials. Evolon® fabrics offer scratch-free, lint-free, high-end surface protection for molded plastic parts, painted parts and other sensitive industrial and automotive parts during transport. This contributes to lower the scrap rate of parts and provide both financial and ecological benefits. By using Evolon® reusable packaging to transport highly-sensitive parts, customers can increase their efficiency and save resources.

January, 3rd, ZDHC announced the release of the updated ZDHC Man-Made Cellulosic Fibres (MMCF) Guidelines Version 2.0, and its supporting document. By publishing these documents the industry shall be pushed forward increasingly innovative and sustainable fibre production.

The ZDHC MMCF Guidelines V2.0 now include the Responsible Fibre Production Guidelines, Wastewater Guidelines and Air Emissions Guidelines as three separate chapters in a single document.

Fibres are key components of production processes in the textile and fashion value chain and it is crucial to reduce the environmental impact of their manufacture. ZDHC guidelines give suppliers producing MMCF unified criteria for measuring output indicators like wastewater, sludge, air emissions and other process-related parameters.

Among other changes, this update reflects the expansion of the scope to accommodate Viscose Filament Yarn, Lyocell, Cuprammonium Rayon (Cupro) and Cellulose Acetate (Acetate). The ZDHC Man-Made Cellulosic Fibres (MMCF) Guidelines V2.0 provide an aligned approach for included fibres, including defined chemical recovery, wastewater and sludge discharge, and air emission discharge.

ZDHC continues to advocate for the improvement of processes which minimise emissions while also working towards the recovery of input substances and by-products. These dual goals, reduction and recovery, directly address the negative impact of outputs arising from MMCF production.

ZDHC MMCF Guidelines Industry Standard Implementation Approach Version 2.0: Additional Industry Support for Implementation
Along with the ZDHC Man-Made Cellulosic Fibres (MMCF) Guidelines V2.0, ZDHC has also updated its ZDHC MMCF Guidelines Industry Standard Implementation Approach. This document aims to support the implementation process of the ZDHC MMCF Guidelines V2.0, and features new implementation timelines that assist suppliers in setting their goals to achieve Foundational, Progressive or Aspirational Level on the ZDHC Supplier Platform.