From the Sector

• Registered in majority as a class 1 medical device  

CELLIANT -  a performance textile that converts body heat into infrared energy - is designated as a Class 1 Medical Device in Australia, Canada, the EU and European Economic Area (EEA), Japan, New Zealand, the United Arab Emirates, the United Kingdom and the United States. CELLIANT is cleared to market in China, India, Indonesia, Korea, Malaysia, Mexico, Peru, Philippines, Russia, Saudi Arabia, Singapore, South Africa, Taiwan, Thailand and Vietnam, with more countries and regions to follow.

In 2017, the FDA determined that products containing CELLIANT are medical devices as defined in section 201(h) of the Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act and are general wellness products because they are intended to temporarily increase blood flow and local circulation at the site of the application in healthy individuals.
 
At Hologenix®, whose CELLIANT® infrared technology is an ingredient in world-class brands across many categories, science matters. The company has a distinguished Science Advisory Board composed of experts in the fields of photobiology, nanotechnology, sleep medicine, diabetes and wound care. The Science Advisory Board has overseen nine peer-reviewed published studies that collectively demonstrate CELLIANT’s effectiveness and the benefits of infrared energy. This claim set provides the basis for products containing CELLIANT to be designated as a Class 1 Medical Device in 38 countries and cleared to market in 15, with more countries and regions to follow. This elevated status in 53 countries translates to CELLIANT being an ideal partner for global companies who are seeking innovation in textiles to distinguish their products.   

“We have laid the groundwork for our partner brands to capitalize on the benefits of our infrared technology and to enhance their ability to do business,” said Seth Casden, Hologenix co-founder and CEO.  “We firmly believe that regulatory status matters and that is why we have grown the number of countries we have such relationships with by over a third in the last three years. It is definitely a competitive advantage of our company and CELLIANT.”

“Globally, the awareness of the benefits of infrared textiles, which absorb body heat and reflect it back as therapeutic infrared energy, has grown exponentially over the last 10 years,” continued Casden. “And in the United States infrared is gaining a strong foothold.”

The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO), representing the full spectrum of the U.S. textile industry from fibers through finished sewn products, welcomed Vice President Kamala Harris’ announcement of $585 million in new textile and apparel investments and sourcing commitments in Central America.

“Over the past year, well over $1 billion of new textile and apparel investments have been announced in Central America and the United States,” said NCTO President and CEO Kim Glas.  “The $585 million of investments and sourcing commitments announced today in the region will continue to build on the strong momentum of growth of nearshoring and onshoring these critical supply chains.”

“The investments and sourcing commitments announced today continue to build on the robust textile and apparel co-production chain between the U.S. and Central America,” said NCTO President and CEO Kim Glas. “We sincerely appreciate the administration’s commitment to this critical manufacturing sector that has contributed to the backbone of economic development in Central America and the United States. And we look forward to working with our retail and brand partners to continue to expand our vital manufacturing sector.”

Over the last year, substantial investments have been flowing into Central America, predicated on the Dominican Republic-Central America Free Trade Agreement (CAFTA-DR) and the co-production chain that facilitates $15.1 billion in two-way textile and apparel trade and supports more than one million workers in the U.S. and the region.

“We saw apparel imports largely containing U.S. textile inputs from the CAFTA-DR region jump 24 percent according to the latest government trade data and we have seen well over $1 billion in investments in the region,” Glas said.

Several NCTO members previously joined the Vice President last year to announce their investments and sourcing commitments, including Parkdale Mills, Unifi, and SanMar.

“These are just a few of the key investments in the region, which illustrates how this co-production chain is continuing to make sustainable investments that strengthen supply chain resilience, create job opportunities and investment in the U.S. and the region, and ensure transparency in our supply chains, as momentum grows for onshoring and nearshoring textile and apparel production,” Glas said. “That is a win-win for our industry and the region.”

Beste x HeiQ AeoniQ™ announce their partnership with the launch of a capsule in the CARPINI collection at Milano Unica. The fabrics including HeiQ AeoniQ™ are crafted by the Italian textiles manufacturer Beste, well known for supplying high-end fabrics for premium and luxury brands.

The fabrics capsule collection for S/S 24 includes 12 articles made with 100% HeiQ AeoniQ™, linen, and HeiQ AeoniQ™ blends, and cotton and HeiQ AeoniQ™ blends in several different proportions.
The collection is named FLOW, as related to the movement of water and air to be in tune with Nature’s balance and rhythm, with a color range including hay, black, water, caramel, violet, dust, denim, lime, and cobalt.

With this initiative, Beste becomes the first partner to incorporate the HeiQ AeoniQ™ fiber into its active fabric portfolio, and also its Tessuteka, the library that keeps all the fabrics produced by the company since 1993.

For Carlo Centonze, HeiQ’s CEO “the partnership with Beste makes total sense for all the values embodied by HeiQ AeoniQ™ that we both share, namely its commitment to circular ethics, practice and promote sustainability, and have a positive impact in the environment while also creating new business opportunities that the market and the Planet so urgently need.”

According to Giovanni Santi, Beste’s CDA president: “Beste SpA benefit company is strongly committed to developing a positive and responsible impact over the environment and the social fabric it is surrounded by. To meet this precise criterion, we use HeiQ AeoniQ™, a new biodegradable fiber developed by HeiQ, a Swiss chemical company that is Beste's constant partner in this indispensable green revolution. The introduction of HeiQ AeoniQ™, namely a fiber that is cellulosic in nature but with characteristics and performances similar to polyester ones, concerns a significant step in the reduction of CO2 emissions and plastics. It is not only a responsible choice, but it also deals with a precise and courageous positioning in the constant battle in favor of our planet by starting from the textile innovation front.”

The new Beste x HeiQ AeoniQ™ fabrics will be displayed at Beste’s booth during the Milano Unica trade show from January 31st to February 2nd, in Milan, Italy.

As of the beginning of 2023, Zünd Systemtechnik AG acquired its long-standing sales partner Sign-Tronic S.A, which is based in Barcelona.

Sign-Tronic S.A. has been a wholly owned subsidiary of Zünd Systemtechnik AG since the start of 2023 and now operates under the name Zund Ibérica. Sign-Tronic S.A. was established in 1990 and has been an official sales and service partner of Zünd Systemtechnik AG since 1994. Zund Ibérica serves numerous customers in Spain, Portugal and Andorra.

Jordi Lorente is the new CEO of Zund Ibérica. For the time being, he will be actively supported by the previous co-owner and Managing Director Flemming Jensen. Rosa Miralles, also a co-owner, will continue to work in an executive capacity at Zund Ibérica.

Zund Ibérica currently employs 15 people. With more than 1,000 cutters installed, Zund Ibérica is one of the most experienced distributors of both digital cutting systems and software and workflow solutions on the Iberian market. It has its own showroom, which allows customers and interested parties to experience the many possibilities of Zünd’s digital cutting technology in person. Its staff consists of proven experts in consulting, training, installation, and service.

Over the past three years, a dedicated AI development team at BTMA member Shelton Vision has been developing tailored machine learning solutions for the textiles industry.

The aim has been to elevate the detection process and the accuracy of naming and grading subtle defects in textiles, in real time within production environments.

“Big Data ‘off-the-shelf’ systems such as those behind technolgies like facial recognition and Google Maps involve reading many thousands of single images each second and simply take too long to accumulate sufficient data for what’s required in this specific case,” says Shelton Vision CEO and Managing Director Mark Shelton. “A feature of the textile industry is that in many sectors, the product range changes several times within a year and it is not uncommon to have to inspect hundreds, if not thousands of different styles in a year based on precise settings.”

In terms of defect types, he adds, there may typically be over 100 that need to be accurately detected, classified (named) and graded in real time.

“Added to this is the need to ‘filter out’ the random occurrence of ‘non defects’, such as loose threads, lint and dust on the surface – the number of which can be higher than actual defects – and it is clear that a bespoke system is required.”
The development team has consequently established metadata for identifying defect properties, enabling the successful identification of faults from a much smaller number of images.

“The system employs a unique combination of machine learning for automated style training and novel algorithms for defect detection, to provide high quality images for the AI real time defect classification and grading software,” Shelton explains. “Due to the inherent variation in fabric features – raw materials, construction, texture, colour and finishes, as well as the differing product quality standards in value chains and the regional variations in what defects are called – our AI engine uses models built for each individual company or group of companies, or product value chain.”

The AI models are constructed so that the user operatives can populate them with their own data produced by the vision system or by obtaining defect images from another imaging source (eg a mobile phone camera).  

The occurrence of defects is sporadic and many defect types occur infrequently, although when they do, they can have severe consequences. These scenarios re-enforce the need for the AI engine to be quickly set up and able to operate accurately with limited data sets of typically between 30 and 50 good quality images per defect type.

A further feature is a tool enabling the user to periodically ‘clean up’ the AI data during the set up phase. This is used to resolve conflicting data and to correct mis-named images.

Generally, the highest cost component of fabric production is the raw material and in addition to finished product inspection, a cost effective use for vision systems is in process operation.

Generally, the highest cost component of fabric production is the raw material and in addition to finished product inspection, a cost effective use for vision systems is in process operation.

“There is a need for the real time detection of defects that are being created in separate processes, such as printing or coating and for real time automated systems that can accurately determine the defects and their severity and provide a reliable signal for an operative to rectify the issue, This can result in considerable savings.

Prior to Shelton introducing powerful customised machine vision and real time defect classification, the only systems available were those that required manual sifting through vast numbers of images, which included both real defects and ‘non defect’ images. The task was very often overwhelming and did not provide much benefit beyond manual fabric inspection.

Avgol®, an Indorama Ventures Limited company, has been honoured with the Supplier Excellence Award by leading global brand Procter & Gamble.

The award was in recognition of Avgol, a leader in the manufacture of high-performance nonwoven fabric solutions, ‘being a notable and valuable supplier over the last fiscal year’ to the P&G Baby Care Business Unit.

Avgol CEO Tommi Bjornman said receiving the honour from P&G for the first time is a source of great pride for the company. “The assessment process for the award focuses on us as the supplier showing outstanding contributions across a range of key categories,” he said. “I am delighted and proud that the Avgol team was unanimously identified as being strongest in terms of our collaboration with the customer, as well as in our continuous improvement efforts across all regions of P&G’s global Baby Care program.

“It was heartening that, in making the award, P&G further noted that Avgol’s efforts have significantly assisted in their own commercial growth during a challenging period for the Hygiene market,” he said.

In 2018, Indorama Ventures Limited (IVL), a leading petrochemicals producer and global integrated leader in PET and fibres, acquired majority ownership of Avgol, resulting in a focused and faster growth of Avgol Nonwovens.

“With the combined financial, technical, commercial strength and expertise of Avgol and IVL, Avgol has been working hard to develop innovative products, putting sustainability front and centre in our plans for the future and ensuring we deliver the very best product and service to our customers around the world,” said Tommi Bjornman.

• Building Leadership Position in Luxury Market

Oerlikon announced that it has signed a definitive agreement to acquire Riri, a leading provider of coated metal accessories for the luxury fashion industry. This transaction marks a milestone in Oerlikon’s growth strategy and diversifies Surface Solutions’ offerings and market access. The transaction is expected to close in the first quarter 2023, subject to regulatory approvals and standard closing conditions.

“Riri is highly complementary to our existing luxury business and will reinforce our fashion jewelry and metallic components for leather goods. It is the ideal next step after our acquisition of Coeurdor in 2021 and will make us a market leader and an integrated provider with a complete offering of coated luxury metalware for high-end fashion brands,” said Michael Suess, Executive Chairman, Oerlikon. “The acquisition will drive cross-selling and strengthen our footprint in the global luxury metalware market, which sees mid- to-high single-digit growth rates annually.”

“Our portfolio, particularly in zippers and buttons, is an excellent fit to Oerlikon’s strengths in coated metal-based fashion components. Together, we are ideally positioned in Italy and France – the two major European fashion hubs – and can provide a complete offering to fashion customers,” said Renato Usoni, CEO, Riri. “We are excited to join Oerlikon as it will allow us to accelerate the luxury goods industry’s sustainability transition to greener technology by applying technologies such as Oerlikon’s PVD¹.”

Riri, headquartered in Mendrisio, Switzerland, is a market leader in metal accessories manufacturing, with a wide product range and unique offering. The company supplies global leading brands in the luxury fashion industry and has a strong foothold in the Italian luxury market. The company has more than 1 100 employees and expects to generate sales of EUR ~170 million (CHF ~165 million) in 2022.

¹ PVD, or physical vapor deposition, coating is a thin-film coating solution that is more environmentally friendly than traditional processes such as chrome plating.

The Lenzing Group, a leading supplier of sustainably produced specialty fibers, and Renewcell, the Swedish textile-to-textile recycling pioneer, have signed a multi-year supply agreement to accelerate the transition of the textile industry from a linear to a circular business model. The agreement contains the sale of 80,000 to 100,000 tonnes of Renewcell’s 100 per cent recycled textile Circulose® dissolving pulp to Lenzing over a five-year period, for use in the production of cellulosic fibers for fashion and other textile applications.

“The textile industry must change. By signing the agreement with Swedish textile-to-textile recycling company Renewcell, Lenzing is able to further integrate recycling and accelerate the transition of the textile industry from linear to circular. As champions of sustainability, we know that moving towards a circular economy is vital to address the enormous textile waste challenges of the industry”, says Christian Skilich, Chief Pulp Officer of the Lenzing Group.

“Lenzing is a major player in our industry, with an inspiring track record of path-breaking technical excellence and sustainability leadership. Our new partnership fits perfectly into Renewcell’s strategy to accelerate the scale-up of circular materials by collaborating with fashion’s most important players. We are more than pleased to join forces with Lenzing with the shared goal of making fashion circular.” said Patrik Lundström, CEO of Renewcell, in a comment on the agreement.

Canopy, a not-for-profit environmental organization dedicated to protecting forests, species, and climate, welcomes the agreement between Lenzing and Renewcell.
“Accelerating the transition to low-impact, circular production is the challenge of the decade for the fashion industry. That is why this partnership between Renewcell and Lenzing is so refreshing – it will bring low-carbon Next Gen solutions to market at scale,” exclaimed Nicole Rycroft, Executive Director of Canopy. “With the climate and biodiversity clocks ticking, the race to circularity is one we need all companies to win.”
 
It is an essential part of Lenzing’s corporate strategy and ambitious sustainability targets to become a true champion of circularity and to offer TENCEL™ and LENZING™ ECOVERO™ branded specialty textile fibers with up to 50 percent post-consumer recycled content on a commercial scale by 2025. To reach this goal Lenzing partners with recycling pioneers like Renewcell.
Circulose® originates 100 per cent from textile waste, like old jeans and production scraps, and turns into dissolving pulp. It transforms textile waste and production scrap into new high-quality textile products.

• Successful repositioning: BOGNER achieves its best financial year since 2015 following the completion of the two-year performance program.
• Continuity in management: Gerrit Schneider takes over as sole CEO. Heinz Hackl, present Co-CEO, leaves the company by mutual agreement. With former CEO Andreas Baumgaertner and Andreas Gall two experienced advisors move closer to the management.
• Streamlined governance and corporate structure: Arndt Geiwitz hands the company back into the hands of the family after the successful completion of the performance program and takes over the chairmanship of the newly created advisory board. BOGNER operates with GmbH as legal form in the future.

With the financial results in 2021/22, BOGNER has achieved the most successful financial year since 2015. A key contribution to this was provided by the performance program developed with the management consultancy EY Parthenon in July 2020. Since then, it was implemented as planned and successfully promoted profitability and sustainable global growth. In order to create the ideal framework conditions for further success, BOGNER is now simplifying its management, governance and corporate structures.

Gerrit Schneider takes over as sole CEO
Gerrit Schneider, Co-CEO of BOGNER since April 2020 and responsible for Finance, Legal, IT, Operations and HR, will take over the sole CEO role of BOGNER with immediate effect. Heinz Hackl, present Co-CEO of BOGNER and currently responsible for Sales, Design, Marketing and Licensing, will leave BOGNER by mutual agreement.

The former BOGNER CEO Andreas Baumgaertner (2017-2020) will move closer to the management for all product- and design-specific topics and will intensify his advisory role. He has already advised the company in the background in recent years and will now accompany and help to shape the future direction of the brand even more closely. As for the external media presence, BOGNER secures further know-how and experience with Andreas Gall, the former founding CEO and Chief Innovation Officer (CINO) of Red Bull Media House.

Streamlined structures with end of trusteeship and new active advisory board
In addition to the management, BOGNER is also refining its governance structures: With the successful completion of the performance programm, trustee Arndt Geiwitz has achieved the goal he has set together with management and family to bring BOGNER in a strong position. Now he returns the company back to the family. Arndt Geiwitz will remain closely associated with BOGNER and will accompany the company in its further development as Chairman of the newly created advisory board.

Furthermore, BOGNER changes the legal form of the company to a GmbH (limited liability company) and merges individual group companies as part of this step. This simplifies the corporate structures and reduces complexity. As part of this adjustment, BOGNER is setting up an advisory board with supervisory function. The advisory board, staffed with experienced personalities, will advise the management comprehensively on the strategic direction, function as a sparring partner and serve as a supervisory body. In addition to Arndt Geiwitz as Chairman, Christian Laus, a long-standing advisor of the Bogner family and Managing Director of BOGNER Film GmbH, will become a member of the advisory board. Furthermore, Dr. Daniel Heine, Managing Director of Patrimonium Asset Management AG, will join the advisory board. A private debt fund of Patrimonium Asset Management AG as strategic financing partner and BOGNER have signed financial agreements to replace the loan agreement concluded with various banks as part of the performance program.

The Swedish textile-to-textile recycling company Renewcell has signed a Letter of Intent with Eastman, a leading US cellulosic acetate fiber producer, for a collaboration to develop Naia™ Renew ES yarns sourced from Circulose®, Renewcell’s 100% recycled textile raw material. The agreement is Renewcell’s first with a US-based fiber producer and an important step in developing the first acetate-based applications to use Circulose® feedstock.

”Eastman considering Circulose® as a feedstock in the production of a premium yarn like Naia™ Renew reflects very well on the Renewcell team’s ability to work with partners to adjust and optimize our product for new fiber applications. This agreement signals an acceleration of our joint efforts to bring Naia™ Renew ES yarns derived from Circulose® to market. I look forward to working alongside Eastman in making fashion circular.” comments Patrik Lundström, CEO of Renewcell.

Ruth Farell, GM of Eastman Textiles says: ”we are thrilled to collaborate with a pioneeer such as Renewcell to lower our reliance on virgin feedstocks, redefine the essence of textile waste and close the loop within the textiles industry. This collaboration is at the heart of our strategy to launch a portfolio of products with increased recycled content”