From the Sector

Hologenix® is an honoree on the second annual Power Partner Awards list by Inc. Business Media. Inc.’s 2023 Power Partner Awards feature B2B organizations across the globe that have proven track records supporting entrepreneurs and helping startups grow. There were 389 companies in all who achieved top marks from clients for being instrumental in their success and made the final list. Hologenix was recognized in the Health & Wellness category, which focuses on companies that provide health and wellness products or services. In order to achieve this status, customers provided written testimonials detailing their experience in working with Hologenix as a partner.

“Our business is set up to succeed when our partners succeed, so we are grateful that our partners have affirmed the superior level of support we aim to provide,” said Seth Casden, Hologenix CEO and Co-Founder. “CELLIANT offers something unique to world-class brands looking to deliver health and wellness benefits. Our proprietary technology offers a key textile differentiator for their products, from apparel, bedding and furnishings to medical-use fabrics, bandages and wraps, transportation seating and even saunas.”

On display at Sculpture by the Sea, the land art event that brings the Sydney coastline to life every year, is “Seabilia”, Elena Redaelli’s latest work created using waste fabric from Sitip’s production processes. A creation that draws attention to the environment and its fragility in the face of human activity, “Seabilia” is a reminder of how precious yet delicate this balance is, and how humans must become mindful of their actions before the effects end up being completely irreversible.

Sitip's commitment to environmental sustainability struck a chord with Elena Redaelli, and a meeting between the Bergamo-based textile company and the artist from Erba, Italy, led to “Seabilia”, a work that will be displayed as part of Sculpture by the Sea on Tamarama Beach near Bondi in Sydney.

It’s one of the most popular events to take place in this corner of Australia, attracting half a million visitors who flock to these Aussie beaches to admire more than one hundred works created by artists from all over the world.

Held since 1997, this event captures the imagination of its visitors for three weeks each austral spring and, thanks to the vast area it covers, has earned the title of largest annual sculpture exhibition in the world.

The 2023 edition, scheduled to take place from 20 October to 6 November, will feature Elena Redaelli's work created using waste Native-Cosmopolitan Kyoto fabric which, having failed the company's quality control tests, was donated to the artist.

A post-consumer recycled circular knit fabric composed of 89% recycled polyester (PLR), 11% elastane (EA), and weighing 240 grams, the Native-Cosmopolitan Kyoto is made from recycled yarns derived from plastic waste that’s been recovered from the environment, particularly from the sea and from recycling centres. The fabric is Bluesign, GRS (Global Recycled Standard) and OEKO-TEX certified, attesting to Sitip's commitment to environmental responsibility and protection.

During the process, the artist hand-cut the waste fabric and crocheted the pieces together using recycled cotton and other types of thread.

In the creative mind of the artist, the genesis of “Seabilia” arose from deep in the ocean where tiny creatures inhabit the darkest, least explored parts of the planet. A place where the rhythm of life for the inhabitants is marked by silence and obscurity, while waves and tides agitate the surface above. The life of the ocean, such a vast and imposing environment, is impacted every single day by human activity, slowly weakening its delicate balance. “Seabilia” is intended to act as a reminder of how precious yet extremely fragile this balance is, and how humans must become more aware of the consequences of their actions before it’s too late and such a vital asset is lost forever.

“Following Emersione, a work that was exhibited at the Ex Ateneo in Bergamo during Fiber Storming, a textile art exhibition organised by ArteMorbida Textile Arts Magazine and curated by Barbara Pavan, Seabilia is the second art project where I’ve had the opportunity to utilise SITIP's fabrics. – explains the artist, Elena Redaelli. As it was going to be displayed on the rocks at Tamarama Beach, my installation needed a durable, elastic fabric with structural characteristics capable of withstanding ocean winds and sudden changes in weather. Using waste Native-Cosmopolitan Kyoto fabric was the obvious choice, not just because of its very high quality, but also, and more importantly, because it’s made from recycled yarns derived from plastic waste that’s been recovered from the environment, often even from the sea itself. The different textures and shades of white enabled me to create a varied work that, despite the almost monochromatic tones, conjures a diverse range of tactile sensations. The biomorphic modular composition evokes skeletons of sea creatures that appear to have been deposited onto the rocks by a wave and left there to wither in the blazing Australian sun.”

Once again Tonello will be present their technologies and partnerships at Kingpins from October 18-19.

DyeMate, the ozone, THE Laser
DyeMate is Tonello's new "patent-pending" technology that reinterprets the traditional indigo garment dyeing process, by making it automatic and repeatable, efficient and sustainable: carried out in a nitrogen atmosphere, without oxygen, with controlled reduction and oxidation, to achieve results that are perfectly comparable, in terms of authenticity and "aesthetic flavor," to those of denim that fades and becomes vintage with the passage of time.

Tonello will present a collection of garments with super bleach effects. With OBleach, EGO and O-Zone triad redefined the garment bleaching process, including no harmful chemicals such as chlorine and permanganate, in favor of sustainable and healthy production.

The entire collection will be embellished and finished with aesthetic solutions and details: the natural overdyeing of Wake, the ultra-thin graphics made with THE Laser Lab, the reproducible breakages of THE Laser T and TM.

Collections, design, collaborations
The MSP - Most Sustainable Product - collection, developed together with Kingpins and Denim House, designed by Piero Turk and Serena Conti, and processed in Tonello's Research and Development Center with the latest responsible finishing technologies, returns this year.

Tonello will also present another project: ONE Denim. A collection that aims to combat resource waste in the denim industry by demonstrating concretely how many new denim garments could be made from a single fabric by optimizing processes and choosing appropriate technologies and production methods. The fabrics chosen are from Sharabati Denim, the design is by Piero Turk, and the collection is processed by Tonello.

SA-KE
This project was born out of a dialogue between Tonello's technology and the creativity of British designers Sadia Rafique and Kelly Harrington, who produced as many as 70 artworks that are partly physically present at Kingpins and partly published in a book-zine that tells the philosophy and logic of this unique and original work. A work that combines technology, expressive research and all new forms of image generation, across the boundary between natural and artificial, but still totally human.

adidas and IVY PARK unveil the final installment of their collaboration together, titled IVY PARK NOIR.
The new range represents a culmination of the two brands’ work together, combining adidas’ athletic and functional excellence, with IVY PARK’s signature emphasis on shape, and trend-defying creative vision. Using a singular, black color palette, IVY PARK NOIR intentionally draws focus to fabric, fit and texture, cultivating enduring elegance through sensual, material play.

Considering all chapters of an active way of life- from warm up, to cool down- the collection elevates one’s everyday pursuits through a mix of tight and loose fitting styles. Fabrications include luxurious embossed leather, exposed mesh and lacquered latex that combine to create a complex yet sophisticated capsule. Standout pieces include body-con cropped top and pant, relaxed 3-D molded knit sweatsuits, multifunctional jackets, and the IVY PARK signature jersey.

IVY PARK NOIR’s offering includes footwear that re-imagines a new era of style and function. Sleek molded and debossed elements add an architectural foundation to the collection’s sneakers, while a chunky, over the knee boot offers utilitarian fantasy.

After four decades in the packaging industry, the Manjushree Group is entering the Indian nonwovens market. The entrepreneurs rely on a flexible RF Smart Composite line from Reifenhäuser Reicofil to meet very different customer requirements.

The Manjushree Group operated a blown film line for packaging materials for the tea industry in the eastern part of India as early as 1983. In the years that followed, Manjushree Technopack Ltd. developed into one of the largest suppliers of solutions for rigid plastic products in South Asia - and the family business grew into a group with several business segments. In 2018, the entrepreneurial family repositioned itself: it sold its previous core business to a financial investor and established Manjushree Ventures with footholds in start-up financing, real estate business, and manufacturing - the largest of which is Manjushree Spntek as a producer of high-quality spunmelted fabrics.

Since February 2023, Manjushree Spntek has been producing high-performance spunmelts on an RF Smart Composite line from Reifenhäuser Reicofil - benefiting both from many years of experience in the packaging industry and from experience with Reifenhäuser's blown film lines. "We know a lot about plastic extrusion, for example when it comes to line operating parameters such as temperature and pressure. Processing is similar in both industries," explains Rajat Kedia. "The main difference is the distribution of the products: In plastic packaging, we had an established customer base and sold a lot of material to the big consumer goods manufacturers. The nonwovens market in India, on the other hand, is still forming, with thousands of small companies currently getting involved." These serve customers in their regions, such as hospitals.

The RF Smart Composite line is a standardized spunmelt line for smaller and emerging markets. The line produces nonwovens of the highest Reicofil quality with appropriately adapted throughput. This makes it ideally suited for applications in hygiene and medical technology and, with typically 8,200 annual production hours, it is extremely reliable. In addition, operators can start production quickly because in many cases the line can be integrated into existing buildings.

Before production could start, Manjushree built a new production building in Bidadi, a town an hour's drive from Bangalore International Airport. The building is designed to be sustainable: It uses natural light and fresh air, has comprehensive contamination control, and obtains almost all of its energy from renewable sources. Reifenhäuser Reicofil then installed, commissioned and tested the RF Smart Composite line.

Since February 2023, Manjushree Spntek has been producing high-quality spunmelted nonwovens, including ultra-soft fabrics and fabrics with special coatings for customers in the hygiene and medical industries. The material can be used, for example, for baby diapers and feminine hygiene products, but also for medical articles ranging from surgical gowns to surgical drapes.

Modern lifestyles require more than just functionality. Consumers are seeking products that offer a perfect balance between protection and comfort. The FLEX SHIELD collection offers a range of textiles that provide these functions without compromising on freedom of movement to maximize the wearer’s experience.

The Flex Shield Collection reflects Schoeller’s commitment to creating textiles that empower individuals to embrace their activities with confidence, knowing their gear will not fail and is designed for challenging conditions.

Every article in the collection is equipped with at least one of Schoeller’s pioneering textile technologies. These innovations ensure breathability, thermal regulation, as well as wind and water resistance.

One highlight is the schoeller®-ceraspace^TM technology, which owes its outstanding protective properties to a unique composition of special ceramic particles anchored in a polymer matrix. The ceramic particles are nearly as hard as diamonds and are firmly attached as a 3-dimensional coating to the textile. A textile with schoeller®-ceraspace^TM abrasion resistance performs significantly better than high-quality leather in terms of abrasion resistance. A fabric equipped with schoeller®-ceraspace^TM can also be more engineered to fulfill the required stretch properties, and its production process results in significantly less waste material compared to leather.

ISKO provided their latest innovation in material science to British designers, Priya Ahluwalia, Masha Popova, Chet Lo and Aaron Esh, for the London Fashion Week SS24 season.

Alongside supplying their latest denim fabrics, ISKO opened its doors to its London-based product development centre, Creative Room London, for finishing and washing of their final designs as well providing expertise and knowledge in denim design and construction.

Priya Ahluwalia
For Ahluwalia’s Spring Summer 24 collection, entitled Acknowledgements, Creative Director and founder Priya Ahluwalia’s research led her on a journey of creative rediscovery.
ISKO’s Ctrl+Z fabric, which is made entirely from recycled and regenerated fibres, was used to create the flower motif denim showcase within 3 looks across jeans and jackets. This development contains no virgin cotton and uses a minimum of 60% recycled materials and the remainder is regenerated cellulose fibres while still giving a look and feel identical to traditional denim and speaks to Ahluwalia’s ongoing commitment to sustainable design and business practices.

Chet Lo
This season, Chet Lo took an active stand in reclaiming the power lost during his youth, healing the childhood wounds inflicted by a society that sidelined differences instead of celebrating them.
ISKO’s Ctrl+Z fabric and specialist lasering techniques from ISKO’s Creative Room was used across three looks featuring signature Chet Lo erotic laser prints across denim bottoms.

Aaron Esh
The SS24 season marked the brand’s debut at London Fashion Week, a homecoming of sorts for Esh, who was born and raised in the heart of the British capital, studied at Central Saint Martins and became a finalist at the LVMH Prize earlier this year. The early impulses of Aaron Esh remain steadfast: clothes that combine establishment rigour with the rebellious spirit of youth culture, devotedly crafted for a generation who feels somewhere in-between.
Aaron created bootleg denim ripped jeans made entirely from ISKO Denim using R-TWO50 fabric, which comprises a minimum of 50% pre and post-consumer recycled content. The designer noted the addition of denim accompanied by leathers add a new level of depth to their latest collection.

Masha Popova
Masha Popova’s sophomore catwalk outing, MONSTER was a “seasonless” offering that combines Autumn Winter 2023 and Spring Summer 2024.
Masha continued her obsession with denim manipulation, using various finishings including over-dyeing, flocking, patchwork, scratching and fraying in a variety of colours from vibrant green to silver across jeans, tops and jackets, all developed with the help of ISKO’s Creative Room, London.

Team Jumbo-Visma’s triumphant victories in Europe’s three Grand Tours of cycling, including the recent Vuelta a España, were supported by AGU’s cycling kits that are powered by the HeiQ Smart Temp thermoregulation technology.

HeiQ celebrates its collaboration with AGU, a high-performance sports gear manufacturer. Together, the companies integrated HeiQ Smart Temp technology into the jerseys of Jumbo-Visma, the triumphant team whose outstanding cyclists Jonas Vingegaard, Primoz Roglic, and Sepp Kuss won Europe’s three Grand Tours; the Tour de France, Giro d’Italia, and Vuelta a España.

HeiQ Smart Temp, an innovative thermoregulation solution, dynamically responds to body heat and moisture, providing cyclists with a cooling effect when they need it most. This technology enhances comfort and performance, making it ideal for next-to-skin apparel, sportswear, and activewear.

AGU's product developers harnessed the power of HeiQ Smart Temp to create jerseys with cooling properties. The Jumbo-Visma team's lightest-weight jersey, weighing 25% less than their regular aero shirt, keeps athletes up to 2.5°C cooler than other performance fabrics.

Deakin University has signed a partnership agreement with Geelong-based company Xefco as part of its Recycling and Clean Energy Commercialisation Hub (REACH) to conduct new research to transform how our clothing, including jeans, get their colour.

Jeans are one of the most worn garments in the world, but they are also one of the least environmentally friendly, taking around 75 litres of water to dye just one pair.

Deakin’s work with Xefco is helping to explore if a waterless manufacturing process can replace the water intensive processes the clothing industry has used for hundreds of years. The new technology in development is called ‘Ausora’.

Associate Professor Alessandra Sutti, from Deakin’s Institute for Frontier Materials, said it was exciting to be on the commercialisation journey with Xefco, working with the company to discover what is possible and hopefully reduce the world’s fashion footprint.

“If successful, the Ausora technology, which colours fabrics without the need for large quantities of water, will put us a step closer to more efficient and sustainable clothing manufacturing,” Associate Professor Sutti said.

Xefco CEO Tom Hussey said the company’s new pilot plant, housed at Deakin in Geelong, will test different materials, including specialised fabrics such as waterproof items like outdoor jackets and jeans.

“This is the first stage of Xefco’s vision for the technology, with the REACH project focused on demonstrating the commercial viability of the technology at pilot scale and developing processes so it can be scaled up for commercial production,” Mr Hussey said.

“Together, Deakin and Xefco will push the limits of innovation and see what is possible.”
Xefco’s pilot plant is co-located with Deakin researchers at ManuFutures, the state-of-the-art advanced manufacturing hub at Deakin’s Waurn Ponds campus.

Founded in 2018 Xefco now employs 17 people and its products are already making a difference across the world. Its XReflex technology, which reduces consumption of insulation materials, is being used by some of the world’s leading apparel and fashion brands including The North Face.

Backed by a $50 million grant from the Australian Government’s inaugural Trailblazer Universities Program, with industry and university support taking the total project value to $380 million, REACH is facilitating the development of greener supply chains and accelerating business success as markets move from a throughput economy to a circular economy.

Rudolf GmbH, a provider of chemicals to the textile industry, can now offer side-by-side performance tests of the age-old “dip and squeeze” pad versus precision spray finishing with the delivery of Baldwin Technology Inc.’s TexCoat ™ G4 lab-scale unit.

The new TexCoat lab-scale unit at Rudolf’s Geretsried, Germany-based Customer Solution Center, tests the sprayability of chemicals on fabrics as an additional tool to help the market transition to precision spray with confidence in the performance and sustainability of the end result.
 
With Baldwin’s innovative system, the chemistry is precisely distributed across the textile surface and is applied only where it is required, on one or both sides of the fabric. The non-contact technology eliminates chemistry dilution in wet-on-wet processes, allowing full control of maintaining consistent chemistry coverage rates.
 
Plus, pad bath contamination is eliminated, and changeovers are only required when there is a change of finish chemistry. On wet-on-dry processes, the finish is applied with 50% of the amount of water required for pad finishing. Dryer fabric entering the stenter means less water to evaporate resulting in less energy and higher production speeds.
 
More specifically, with Baldwin’s TexCoat G4, textile finishers can track and control the finishing process. Changeovers are quickly performed thanks to recipe management, including automated chemistry and coverage selection. Furthermore, the system takes speed information from the drying process to insure exact coverage regardless of any change in speed. TexCoat G4 measures every drop of chemical usage ensuring that the amount of chemical add-on is precise.
 
In addition, the TexCoat G4 system can process a wide range of low-viscosity water-based chemicals, such as durable water-repellants including PFAS-free, softeners, anti-microbials, easy care resins, flame retardants and more. Baldwin’s technology utilizes the same chemicals used in the traditional pad bath, with no special auxiliaries required.