From the Sector

• From C.L.A.S.S. ICON 2021 to Special Project at WHITE Milan, the streetstyle Portuguese brand shows urban outfits for everyday heroes fighting for the environment, with a holistic approach to sustainability

After being rewarded with the 2021 C.L.A.S.S. Icon Award, the Portuguese brand Duarte is ready to present its Spring/Summer 2022 collection developed with C.L.A.S.S. ecohub support. The streetwear designer Ana Duarte has worked in close contact with the Milanese hub in order to create a 40 pieces collection where the approach to materials, suppliers, new business models and communication could include and support a holistic view of the sustainable values aligned with style, performances, look and touch and Duarte identity.

The inspiration behind the collection is the superhero Tadao - Ana Duarte’s dog, an English Cocker Spaniel - which is the World Keeper fighting against the environmental issues mankind has generated. Like a protector of sustainability, it battles modern monsters as Smog Man, Fire Man, Deforestation Man and Wave man, who respectively represent the issues of air pollution, climate change, forest destruction and water overconsumption. A very simple, direct and engaging way of talking about hot topics and simple, direct solutions.

The collection is made of 20 outfits, mainly unisex apart from some of them typically feminine as the crop tops. Hints of bright red and mustard yellow are alternated with denim, grey and pale azure tones, blending in with the colorful prints. Accents of black - used in inserts or as piping - seem to emphasize the outline of the garments. The different textures of the materials create a sense of movement, further enhanced by the unique patterns. All the garments’ prints are exclusively designed by the designer, following each collection inspiration: this time, they recall urban landscapes and the appeal of big metropolis, with Tadao as protagonist in prints, patches and ankle socks.

Among the most representative Duarte outfits we find:

• A matching sweater with trousers made of Newlife™, a yarn 100% made In Italy coming only from post- consumer, traceable plastic bottles.
• A unisex oversized bomber is crafted from Newlife™, lined with precious 100% Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei fabric by Gianni Crespi Foderami and matched with printed neoprene hoodie and shorts.
• Long-panelled unisex coat and trousers made with ReLAST® denim by Candiani, a responsible textile featuring a premium recycled stretch yarn, ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei. The coat is lined with a fabric by Gianni Crespi Foderami in 100% Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei, a new generation material made from the smart-tech transformation of cotton linter.
• The same sustainable stretch yarn is implied in the responsible tulle by Iluna Group, and featured in a shorts and top women’s ensemble, paired with a neoprene printed bomber. The tulle is skillfully matched with 100% Tencel™ back in the loop fabric by Maeba International underneath it.

Ana Duarte is part of a new generation of designers with a new approach to sourcing and production: her research goes into different kind of business models to fit her responsible innovation and style needs at the same time. That’s why in her collection we can find amazing and unique combination of organic, recycled, Back in The Loop, innovative materials that are the right choice for the look&touch and the performance she’s looking for. The result is cool yet respecting people and the environment in full traceability thanks to certified and sometimes even circular solutions. Working with components from various sources and business models requires a certain expertise and a particular sensibility we find in Ana Duarte’s design solutions and in her responsible interpretation of streetwear.

• EFI Reggiani TERRA Silver Makes Debut at Fespa Global Print Expo 2021 for a Short, Smart and Green Process
• The new, industrial, entry-level EFI™ Reggiani TERRA Silver textile printer from Electronics For Imaging, Inc. is making its debut at the Fespa Global Print Expo 2021 tradeshow, 12-15 October at RAI Amsterdam.
• The EFI Reggiani TERRA Silver uses unique TERRA pigment ink for high-quality, highly sustainable direct-to-textile printing without steaming or washing.       

“This is one of the first trade shows to return after the pandemic, and we are very excited to again meet customers in person and showcase an innovative offering that delivers superior printing results while using less time, water and energy,” said EFI Reggiani Vice President and General Manager Adele Genoni. “We are introducing this advanced EFI Reggiani TERRA Silver solution to the many print service providers at Fespa, presenting them with an ideal path to enter the industrial textile segment with a short, smart and green production process.”

The new-version TERRA Silver printer is part of EFI’s complete TERRA line-up of pigment ink printer solutions. It is a 180-cm wide printer that can print up to 190 sqm per hour with eight dual-channel printheads. The printer also features:

•    A new recirculating ink system for superior reliability and minimum maintenance
•    Several printing modes to ensure maximum flexibility in terms of design capability
•    New, real-time image processing that eliminates time spent in image pre-calculations
•    A user friendly, intuitive interface
•    A more-efficient polymerisation process that takes place as printed textile goes through the printer’s on-board dryer.

In Fespa stand 1-G71, attendees can see the EFI Reggiani TERRA Silver print smoothly and precisely on knitted and woven fabrics. The printer’s quality is evident in its high-uniformity printing modes, and it delivers numerous features that enhance the production process, including an accurate WYSIWYG interface and flexible queue management.
 
EFI Reggiani is also a leading developer of textile inks. The EFI Reggiani TERRA pigment inks used on the Silver model deliver excellent wet and dry fastness properties and remarkable sharpness in detail. Designed to leverage EFI Reggiani digital printers’ market-proven industrial performance capabilities, these eco-friendly, water-based inks provide an extraordinary level of print durability and yield longer print head life with reduced maintenance costs. The high-performance digital pigment inks also use an innovative binder technology for fast, sustainable, and cost-competitive industrial textile printing on the widest range of fabrics. Users also gain superior print definition and colour intensity.
 
This year, EFI Reggiani celebrates 75 years of heritage and innovation in the textile world. Always committed to deliver to the market new cutting-edge technologies, EFI Reggiani has world-class products offering boosted uptime and reliability, high performance throughput, and remarkable printing uniformity and accuracy – all while helping customers increase the sustainability of their textile manufacturing activities. Green EFI Reggiani processes give users fast, complete and sustainable solutions across a broad range of textile applications.
 
In this 75th anniversary year, EFI Reggiani has also launched several other ground-breaking solutions, such as EFI Reggiani HYPER, the fastest scanning digital printer on the market, and the EFI Reggiani BLAZE, an industrial entry-level, easy-to-use printer designed to give new textile companies the opportunity to adopt digital inkjet production with a compact solution to blaze a successful path into the industry.

Elleti Group, an Italian manufacturer specialized in denim treatments and garment making, will present an innovative approach: how we experience denim and its transformation processes.

Elleti Group will display its “Green Replicants” project in a new and improved “Lighter. Better. Wiser.” edition.  This project, inaugurated a few years ago, recreates some of the iconic pieces from the Elleti Group Museum of Denim (dating back to the 19th century) with today’s most advanced environmentally sustainable technologies. This special edition replicas are fully developed using the latest addition to the sustainable tools of the company: the “Wiser Wash” technology, a patented washing method that eliminates the use of all potentially harmful chemicals and pumice stone, while drastically reducing the water consumption throughout the process.
 
Moreover, at the Immaterial M.O.D.E. booth, a special project designed by Denim Première Vision and realized in collaboration with Elleti Group and Sense – Immaterial Reality will take visitors through an Augmented Reality installation to explore a selection of legendary pieces from M.O.D.E., Museum of Denim by Elleti Group. By downloading the app, available on every digital store, on your phone or tablet and looking out for the signage on site, unique denim masterpieces will be at everyone’s fingertips.

Itema, a worldwide manufacturer of weaving solutions, will be for the first time at the Denim Première Vision fair. The company is renowned in the industry to be one of the only manufacturers to produce all the top three weft insertion technologies – rapier, air-jet and projectile.

The company will highlight the iSAVER® technology: designed by Itemalab®, the Itema advanced innovation company. Thanks to iSAVER®, one thousand kilos of cotton per loom a year will be saved – i.e. 3% of total raw materials – which will prevent wasting 20 million litres of water, while saving costs for about €2.000 a year on each loom. iSAVER® significantly contributes in making the denim production greener.

nova-Institute and YNCORIS together with CO₂ Value Europe are looking forward to applications for the innovation award “Best CO₂ Utilisation 2022”. The award will be granted at the well-established “Conference on CO₂-based Fuels and Chemicals”, 23–24 March 2022 in Cologne.

With the innovation award “Best CO₂ Utilisation 2022” together with YNCORIS and CO₂ Value Europe, the nova-Institute offers innovators in the CCU field the unique opportunity to present and market their carbon capture or carbon utilisation (Power-to-X) technology, CO₂-based fuel or chemical at one of the leading conferences on CO₂ as a raw material. The only requirement for participation in the competition is that the product is already on the market or about to be launched in near future.

• 10–12 May 2022, Cologne, Germany (hybrid)
• The unique concept of presenting all renewable material solutions at one event hits the mark: bio-based, CO2-based and recycled are the only alternatives to fossil-based chemicals and materials

Ready-to-use fossil-free sustainable material solutions with a low carbon footprint are in fast-growing demand. Innovative brand owners are keeping an eye out for such solutions, in particular those that will soon reach the mainstream.

For the second time, nova-Institute presents numerous market highlights from bio- and CO2-based chemicals and materials as well as from chemical recycling: All material solutions based on renewable carbon. Together, there is sufficient potential to completely replace petrochemicals by 2050. To tackle climate change at its roots, all additional fossil carbon from the ground must be substituted with renewable alternatives. Over the course of three days, participants will get a comprehensive overview of the latest developments in the renewable material sector, with a focus on industry-ready solutions from a wide spectrum of sustainable raw materials and technologies.

In 2021, the new concept of the Renewable Materials Conference generated an outstanding response, which exceeded all expectations: 420 online participants witnessed a firework of innovations of non-fossil material. 60 speakers, 11 panel discussions, 500 public posts and 1,500 networking activities were proof of the lively exchange during the three conference days.

In 2022, nova-Institute plans to host the conference physically in the heart of Germany's fourth largest city, Cologne, just a few hours away from France, Belgium and the Netherlands. Expected are 400 participants on-site and many more online. On-site, the conference will be accompanied by a large exhibition where companies and institutes can showcase their recent developments. The supporting program, networking activities and many secluded spots at the location offers excellent opportunities to make new business contacts and refresh old ones.

The focus of the conference: All material solutions based on renewable carbon – avoiding the use of additional fossil carbon. The entire spectrum of renewable materials is covered: bio-based, CO2- based and recycled.

The program includes a diverse range of bio-based materials such as bio-based polymers, plastics and biocomposites (first and second generation, biowaste), CO2-based materials (from fossil and biogenic point sources, atmosphere) as well as mechanically and chemically recycled materials.

• Post-Pandemic Market Opportunities, New Technologies and Sustainability Highlight Conference This Fall in Arizona

 
The global absorbent hygiene and personal care markets are enthusiastically anticipating the return of Hygienix™ 2021 as a live, in-person conference Nov. 15-18, in Scottsdale, Arizona, focusing on post-pandemic opportunities, sustainability, new technologies and award-winning products.

The event will offer exciting opportunities for Hygienix participants to engage with new and existing customers in a face-to-face setting, and discover the latest innovations over four days at the Westin Kierland Resort. Highlights include two nonwovens workshops, a welcome reception, opportunities for 60 tabletop displays with receptions, eight intriguing panel discussions and presentations for the Hygienix Innovation Award™ and the INDA Lifetime Service Award.

As the market emerges from the pandemic, trends in sustainability such as replacing plastic with natural fibers, recycling and composting will present new opportunities that will be addressed by 30 presenters from industry companies. Conference participants also will discover how new technologies such as smart sensors and haptics — the use of technology that stimulates the senses of touch and motion — are helping to change the consumer experience.

Hygienix sessions featuring moderated discussions with industry-leading experts and Q&A opportunities are focused on the following themes:

• New Options for Responsible End-of-Life
• Haptics: Four Approaches to Assessing Feel
• Products and Process Innovations in Global Absorbent Hygiene Products (AHPS)
• Absorbent Hygiene Products Market Stats, Trends and Policy Insights
• E-Hygiene Advancements
• Feminine Care: Challenges to the Status Quo (presented in two parts)
• New Approaches and Unmet Needs in Baby and Incontinence AHPS

Hygienix will address the latest research and statistics including:

• Understanding the State of the Nonwovens Absorbent Hygiene Market, COVID-19 Impact and Baby Boom or Bust
• Direct-to-Consumer Winners, Losers & Insights
• Evolution of Sustainable Hygiene: Opportunity, Challenge, and Future Growth
• Single-Use Plastics Policy Developments in North America
• Understanding Consumer Needs and Desires When Considering Incontinence Products

ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei, specialized in sustainable premium stretch fibers, and Bemberg™, a fiber made from the smart-tech transformation of cotton linters pre-consumer materials and converted through a traceable and transparent closed loop process, have been invited to showcase at Filo, the international fair of orthogonal weaving yarns for clothing and furnishings, circular knitwear and technical textiles from the 29-30th of September.

ROICA™ will show its main innovations and four key pieces of the modern and sustainable contemporary wardrobe able to enhance the versatility of the fibers, applied to fashion, sportswear, legwear and underwear.
The brand will also be the protagonist of “The contemporary consumer: Stretch your imagination with ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei smart innovation” speech on September 30th, 11am, organized by the fair to tell its sustainable story.

Bemberg™ will be at Filo showing some selected fabric innovation, and three responsible-driven designers representing different and complementary part of contemporary consumer wardrobe: ZEROBARRACENTO, Maurizio Miri and WAXEWUL.
Bemberg™ will be also involved in two speeches – entitled “Il viaggio di Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei verso una moda contemporanea, premium e responsabile” - organized by the fair (Sept. 29th and 30th at 4pm), where it will share its story made of creation, production and process, as well as product performance, aspects related to sustainability and circular economy approach.

Not only since 2021 has sustainability been a topic high on society’s agenda. And yet the importance of sustainability for consumers and companies has once again increased sharply as a result of the Corona pandemic, as numerous studies confirm. Then why is it often so difficult to implement this conviction in everyday life? One of the biggest obstacles to sustainable consumer behaviour is the lack of availability of alternatives.

In addition to changing consumer demands, the EU Commission's recent decision on the single-use plastics directive is also prompting many nonwovens manufacturers to look at alternative solutions. Kelheim Fibres is exhibiting at this year's INDEX in Geneva and online with bio-based fibers that offer an alternative to synthetic materials in a wide range of applications. The Bavarians have decades of experience in the nonwovens and hygiene sectors and work on individual customer-specific innovations.

"We want to make it easy for consumers to choose an environmentally friendly option. That’s the case when bio-based solutions offer the same performance as synthetic products," said Matthew North, Commercial Director at Kelheim Fibres." Our fibre technology allows us to create just that: unlike natural fibres, which are available already in fibre form and can only be treated on the surface, we can engineer the properties of our fibres they need for specific applications by specifically intervening in the production process. That way we combine nature - our fibres are made of wood pulp - with performance."

Kelheim's special fibres are made of wood pulp from sustainably managed sources, are produced in Kelheim in an environmentally friendly way and are fully biodegradable at the end of their product life. Kelheim Fibres is the first viscose fibre manufacturer in the world with an EMAS validated Environmental Management System and was awarded a dark green/light green shirt in the most recent Canopy HotButton-Ranking.

• Leading suppliers of textile-care technology cancel their participation

Leading suppliers of laundry and dry-cleaning technology have used the free cancellation deadline offered by Messe Frankfurt against the background of the pandemic and cancelled their participation in Texcare International 2021 shortly before expiry. In view of this the Advisory Council of the world’s leading textile-care fair have voted to cancel Texcare International for this year because its success can no longer be guaranteed.

In view of the corona crisis earlier this year, Messe Frankfurt offered exhibitors of Texcare International the right to cancel their participation free of charge until 3 September 2021. As the months passed, the overall outlook became increasingly positive and, by the beginning of August, around 200 companies – including the important and big manufacturers from all parts of the textile-care sector – had registered to exhibit at Texcare International in Frankfurt am Main from 27 November to 1 December 2021. Factors contributing to this included the growing pace of vaccination around the world, the categorisation of trade fairs as business events and the officially approved protection and hygiene concept of Messe Frankfurt. Nevertheless, the mood changed shortly before the cancellation deadline as leading companies decided to withdraw from the event because of uncertainties regarding the future development of the pandemic.

Kerstin Horaczek, Vice President Technology Shows at Messe Frankfurt, took stock after the deadline: “Together with our partners, we worked untiringly to stage the Texcare International for the textile-care sector in the autumn. However, a leading international trade fair with a significantly reduced spectrum on show would not do justice to participants’ expectations of the fair as the most important meeting place and innovation hub for the sector. Therefore, we have decided to accept the vote of the Advisory Council and cancel Texcare International 2021. We are extremely sorry about this. At the same time, we are grateful for the on-going, high level of commitment demonstrated by the sector for their most important trade fair.”

As the role of lingerie in fashion and athleisure continues to augment, the desire for garments that will meet a new set of values for contemporary consumer lifestyles will flourish. Iluna Group comes back to Interfilière Paris with an important goal: to relaunch the qualities and dimensions of sustainability.

Iluna’s new path begins with the investment in the renewal of machines, which allow it to fly higher in terms of high-tech developments, quality, definition, effects of yarns and patterns. The journey into the new dimension of responsible quality continues with ad hoc developments in the field of GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certified recycled yarns, aimed at unprecedented effects both in look, in performance and in the hands of fabrics. The cord yarn is a precious yarn with a ROICA™ EF premium stretch yarn core, GRS certified and developed with 50% of pre-consumer waste materials content - double, covered with an equally recycled shiny thread; the bright and translucent is instead to add brilliant effects so far not possible with a GRS yarn.

The printing processes are also born from this constant search for innovation towards new materials and new techniques, becoming more and more sustainable: Global Recycle Standard (GRS)-certified sublimation printing and register printing carrying Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) certification.