From the Sector

• Limited-edition capsule features apparel and footwear for men and women inspired by Bing Crosby’s popular Clambake event and the fashion surrounding it

In 1937 the entertainer Bing Crosby started the popular Crosby Clambake, an annual event that brought musicians, actors, celebrities, and professional golfers together for a friendly competition around a sport they all loved. Today, adidas and Malbon Golf are introducing a special capsule of product – The Crosby Collection – inspired by those early Clambakes and that camaraderie, spirit and fashion from an era that set the stage for what the golf landscape looks like today.

Taking design cues from the fashion that adorned the early days of Bing’s notorious Clambakes, adidas and Malbon Golf put together a range of product for men and women with modern takes on the silhouettes that defined an era. For men, this includes button-down polos, pleated trousers and shorts, crewnecks, a lightweight sport coat and an iconic cardigan inspired by one of the posters from one of the early Clambakes. For women, the capsule includes a color-blocked dress with an argyle print, polos with slightly longer and wider sleeves to go with a boxier cut, and a form-fitting culotte pant.

In addition to the key pieces in the collection, adidas and Malbon will include a checkered anorak, a T-shirt in two colorways featuring the iconic clam decanters that were gifted to all amateur participants in Bing’s Clambakes, and a 5-panel hat. adidas will also include two limited-edition footwear offerings as part of the collection with a specially designed Stan Smith Golf model as well as the new MC87 that mixes performance with style.

Manchester United has announced it has chosen SCAYLE as its official e-commerce platform partner. The club’s new e-commerce experience will launch later this year and continue to be evolved in alignment with the club’s ambition of delivering a best in class direct-to-consumer experience for its global fan base.

SCAYLE provides the technical backbone for more than 140 online stores and was specifically designed for B2C use cases with a focus on the fashion, lifestyle and sports sectors.

Manchester United have appointed SCAYLE to operate a new direct-to-consumer platform that is based on and powered by the SCAYLE commerce engine, dedicated to providing a compelling and customised experience that can quickly adapt to fastchanging requirements.

Fashion for Good's Sorting for Circularity framework expands to address the challenge of ensuring rewearable textiles remain in use as opposed to finding their way into global waste streams or landfills. This 18-month project tests automated sorting technologies using artificial intelligence and machine learning to optimise the sorting of rewearable garments and enable greater circularity.

This project will test automated sorting technologies using machine learning and artificial intelligence (AI) to collect product information — such as colour, style, garment type, and quality. This will enable sorters and brands to make better decisions and sort efficiently based on product data and criteria from local, European, and export resale market requirements, thus optimising the flow of textiles to achieve their highest value potential.

To ensure accuracy and representation in capturing data on the flow of textiles within the EU and export markets, this project will focus on specific geographical regions: Lithuania (Nordic/Baltic), the Netherlands (Western), Poland (Central-Eastern), and Spain (Southern Europe).

The findings will be shared in a report with a supporting business case and implementation roadmap to inform investment decisions in infrastructure, Circular Business Models (CBM) and repair centres.

The Rewear Project builds on Fashion for Good’s Sorting for Circularity framework initiated in 2021 and subsequently launched in Europe, India and the United States harmonising the collection, sorting and recycling industries in order to advance textile-to-textile recycling technologies and the resale industry.

It is funded by brand partners adidas, BESTSELLER, Bonprix, C&A, Inditex, Levi Strauss & Co., Otto Group, PVH Corp., and Zalando. Circle Economy Foundation leads the creation and implementation of the methodology, with support from Consumption Research Norway, Oslo Metropolitan University and Revaluate.

TrusTrace, a SaaS company with for product traceability and compliance, has announced the completion of a (U.S.) $24 million growth investment led by Circularity Capital, a specialist investor in businesses that enable the circular economy, with participation from existing investors Industrifonden and Fairpoint Capital.

According to Shameek Ghosh, CEO and Co-Founder of TrusTrace, the new investment will enable the company to further accelerate its global expansion ambitions by strengthening its presence in key markets, deepening product innovation and expanding collaborations – helping to create a global network where all value chains are traceable, circular, and fair.

Traceability has accelerated in importance and momentum as a key enabler of sustainable transformation, as evidenced by TrusTrace’s five-fold growth in subscription revenue in the 27 months since the previous growth round by Fairpoint Capital and Industrifonden in 2021, preceded by seed funding from Backing Minds in 2019.

With more than a billion products now tracked through the platform, TrusTrace has established itself as a business-critical solution for supply chain traceability. TrusTrace customers include adidas, Brooks Running, Tapestry, Asics and many more. TrusTrace also plans to offer its services to regional and mid-size brands in 2024.

There are only a few days left until the SEEK community comes together at the Station Berlin on 16 and 17 January 2024. The team around SEEK's Show Director Marie-Luise Patzelt is looking forward to welcome around 200 brands, speakers such as Jessica Arnold (Adidas), Sebastian Haufellner (Lodenfrey), Yannik Dietrich (Breuninger), Martyna Zastawna (Vogue), numerous game changers from the sustainability scene and new fashion and lifestyle inspirations.

The new alliance between SEEK and UNION Showroom presents its joint project "THE JUNCTION" for the first time. A selection of high-quality brands with a focus on craftsmanship, origin, and history will be presented in Station Berlin's exclusive loft spaces, includes brands such as A New Sweden, Bruné, Freenote Cloth, Fullcount, Godspeed, Good-Alls, Hidden Aces, Nudie Jeans, Oodoo Boots, Paltò, Viberg, White Sand, and Tenue. THE JUNCTION starts simultaneously with UNION on 14.01.24 and ends with SEEK on 17.01.24.

The SEEK brand portfolio currently encompasses almost 200 brands, including 46 % conscious brands and 45 % newcomers. Buyers and visitors can look forward to brands such as Aer Scents, Bask in the Sun, Chrome, Danner, Dedicated, Givn Berlin, Hestra, Kangaroos, Novesta, Palladium, Pyrenex, Santa Cruz Skateboards, Welter Shelter and Woodbird. Newcomers include Afoam Stories, A Good Company, Dale Of Norway, Good Wool Story, Heimat, Hen's Teeth, Open Era, Pompeii, The Jogg Concept, Wax London and many more.

The SEEK Conscious Club forms the heart of the January edition and is developing into the "place to be" of the sustainability scene. Purpose-driven business practices, systematic sustainability and practical standards will become even more crucial in 2024. With this in mind, the SEEK team introduces the innovative "360 Sustainability Validation" with its partners IVALO.COM and studio MM04. The "360 Sustainability Validation" - powered by IVALO.COM and consulted by studio MM04. Customers can see brand sustainability in 8 different sustainability categories. 360 is a commercial production value chain analysis tool that provides results that are comparable. The aim is to make the complex sub-areas of sustainability in fashion more transparent and comparable. The SEEK team has been working with the sustainability experts at studio MM04 for a long time and is delighted to be part of this important step towards standardising sustainability evaluations. Participating brands in this years Conscious Club are Basic Apparel, Bread & Boxers, Cabaia, Camper, Dawn Denim, Flamingos Life, Isaora, Jan'n June, Kings of Indigo, Rita Row, Secrid, Stapf and Thinking Mu, amongst others.

Together with renowned experts, SEEK is once again presenting a content programme with live interviews, talks, panels and community classes. Speakers such as Carl Tillessen (Deutsches Mode Institut), Steffen Liese (JD Sports), Stephan Huber (Style in Progress), Penny Whitelaw (Good on You), Mimi Sewalski (Avocadostore), Valerie Vogel (Engelhorn), Cheryll Mühlen (J'N'C), Rune Orloff (Pool), Sabine Rogg (Trendbüro), Anthony Lui (A New Sweden), Patrick Bergmann (Famefact), Florian Müller (Müller PR & Consulting) will share their insights exclusively with the SEEK community. The diverse programme includes themes such as pricing and profiling success strategies in times of disruption, a "no-bullshit" guide for brand spaces, the most important LinkedIn and consumer trends for 2024, new chances for recruiting and leadership as well as mental health in fashion.

adidas unveils its SS24 Melbourne collection to mark the start of the 2024 Grand Slam season. AIRCHILL technology – a first for adidas in tennis – works in tandem with HEAT.RDY material technology to support players performing in the heat of the moment.

AIRCHILL material technology supports cooling through thermally zoned, raised pattern motifs and mesh layers. The lightness of AIRCHILL helps skin breathe – deliberately placed in high sweat and evaporation zones – under the armpits, chest and back. The raised patterns and open mesh fabrics are designed to optimize airflow during high-intensity workouts and matches.

The 26-piece range for men and women also boasts a tranquil color palette and pattern scheme, specially crafted to help evoke a sense of calm. The spectrum of greens – including the key colorway ‘Green Spark’, inspired by the natural phenomena of bioluminescence – were carefully chosen for their soft, glowing shades, meanwhile prints adorning the fabric emulate recurring fractal shapes in nature.

The apparel collection is made from 100% recycled materials and comes in sizes XS-2XL for men and 2XS-2XL for women.

The collection will be worn by athletes including Caroline Wozniacki, Elina Svitolina, Xinyu Wang, Dana Mathewson, Jessica Pegula, Karolína Muchová, Maria Sakkari, Stefanos Tsitsipas, Felix Auger Aliassime, Jason Wu and Martin de la Puente.

• Astrifa GmbH relies on CREATE PLUS for the production of its knitted traditional clothing

Astrifa GmbH was founded in 1948 in Lower Bavaria, moved to its current location in 1953 and began specializing in traditional costume clothing in 1978. The company has around 70 employees and produces around 700 items for men, women and children every week. The finest merino wool from England is processed and the machinery consists exclusively of STOLL machines, in total 17 flat knitting machines, including the latest representatives of the ADF and CMS series. Astrifa also relies on pioneering solutions when it comes to programming the machines: CREATE PLUS is used alongside other patterning systems.

The CREATE PLUS software combines a full-featured, advanced programming system with an easy-to-learn user interface, revolutionizing the programming of STOLL flat knitting machines. This has also aroused great interest at ITMA 2023. New versions are released every four months; in addition to many detailed improvements, the current release contains a greatly expanded system for multi-part knitting compared to the previous software and an extensive option for creating reports and statistics.

SEEK is not only presenting the first edition of its new chapter in January 2024 but is also welcoming a new partner on board: UNION Showroom. The new alliance from Berlin combines the strengths of both formats intending to offer buyers from all over the world an even more comprehensive experience in Germany's fashion capital.

With united forces, the two teams led by Marie-Luise Patzelt (SEEK) and Felix Engelmann (UNION Showroom) are showcasing their new project "THE JUNCTION". A selection of brands will be presented in Station Berlin's exclusive loft spaces, including Nudie Jeans, Tenue, Viberg, White Sand, Paltò, Freenote Cloth, Ootoo Boots and A New Sweden. At the same time, the lofts are the transition to the UNION Showroom, taking place at the neighbouring Kühlhaus. The collaboration embodies the idea of a cooperative platform that enables buyers to discover the best collections from both platforms.

THE JUNCTION starts simultaneously with UNION on 14.01.24 and ends with SEEK on 17.01.24.

Global Fashion Agenda (GFA) released the 2023 edition of The GFA Monitor — a report to guide fashion leaders towards a net-positive fashion industry. The second GFA Monitor has been updated to include the latest guidance and insights from over 25 industry organisations in one cohesive publication. For the first time, the report includes new data insights from the Fashion Industry Target Consultation - drawn from over 900 industry participants in 90 countries.

The GFA Monitor is an extensive resource that presents expert insights on the status of the industry, clear actions to take, and proven best practices. In a time of poly crisis when the implementation of sustainable practices is challenged, GFA is supporting the industry by consolidating an abundance of available solutions that can be applied today.  

The tool is grounded by the sustainability framework laid out in the Fashion CEO Agenda, featuring in-depth guidance according to the five sustainability priorities: Respectful and Secure Work Environments, Better Wage Systems, Circular Systems, Resource Stewardship, and Smart Materials Choices. Embracing additional expert knowledge from other industry organisations, each priority includes insights from GFA’s Impact Partners: Fair Labor Association, Social & Labor Convergence Program (SLCP), Ellen MacArthur Foundation, Apparel Impact Institute, and Textile Exchange, respectively.

The 2023 publication presents new findings from the Fashion Industry Target Consultation (FITC), launched by GFA and the United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP) in November 2022, which invited stakeholders from across the global value chain to share their thoughts on the performance indicators and milestones that the industry must strive to meet. The FITC indicates a very positive sentiment from participants, but action and positive impact from that action is yet to be measured. Overall, the data reveals that the majority of the 900 participants supported industry alignment on the 27 action areas proposed in the consultation and remarked that they are actively engaging with the industry to drive progress in the respective areas. The report further illuminates the level of industry ambitions per priority and the areas where more aligned action areas are needed.

Vietnam is the subject of increasing investment across an array of industries, with its textile sector going from strength to strength in a short space of time. To give key players from across the textile spectrum an opportunity to make their presence felt in this market, the Vietnam International Trade Fair for Apparel, Textiles and Textile Technologies (VIATT) will make its debut from 28 February – 1 March 2024. Taking place at the Saigon Exhibition and Convention Center (SECC), the new fair will cover three main product sectors, namely apparel fabrics, yarns and fibres, and garments; home textiles; as well as technical textiles and nonwovens, textile processing, and printing technology.

In line with the industry’s anticipation, the country was identified as the ideal location for ASEAN’s new comprehensive textile platform for several key reasons. Vietnam’s pro-business policies, strategic geographical location, abundant labour force, and favourable trade agreements have contributed to its rise as a global textile manufacturing hub. Agreements such as the Regional Comprehensive Economic Partnership (RCEP); the Indo-Pacific Economic Framework for Prosperity (IPEF); and 15 free trade agreements (FTAs) covering over 60 countries and regions, will further enable participants from across the value chain to conduct cross-border business after connecting at next year’s show. In addition, several key travel initiatives that serve international players have been implemented, including the country’s APEC Business Travel Card programme^[1], availability of e-visas to all nationalities, and visa-free travel for select countries^[2].  

Exhibitors from multiple textile sub-sectors converge in February
In Vietnam’s home textile segment, rising urbanisation, emerging young consumers, and higher disposable incomes are interrelated factors driving growth^[3]. Globally, three of the top trends include recycling; utilising green fibres; and the increasing use of technical fabrics for enhanced comfort and health. At the fair, confirmed home textiles exhibitors include Hanyang Eco Tex, Hohmann GmbH, Phuong Nam Feather, and SIGMA, set to showcase their most up-to-date products, covering bedding, upholstery fabrics, curtain, and sun protection.
 
Utilised for automobiles, civil aviation, construction, health care, and more, Vietnam's exports of technical textiles reached USD 676.6 million for the first nine months of 2022, up 17.1% compared to the same period in 2021^[4]. This in turn bodes well for the country’s import prospects of quality machinery and equipment. Hoping to cater to domestic demand at VIATT 2024, international suppliers in this category include Julai, SIGMA, and Skwentex.

Meanwhile, apparel-related products make up the lion’s share of the country’s textile exports – according to Vietnam Textile & Apparel Association (VITAS), in 2022 these numbered USD 29.1 billion. From Ho Chi Minh to Hanoi, numerous international fashion brands have a manufacturing presence, including Adidas, H&M, Lacoste, Lululemon, Nike, The North Face, Uniqlo, and many more. At next year’s fair, exhibitors such as Avery Dennison, Lenzing, Stylem Takisada-Osaka, and Texwinca, will aim to draw the attention of apparel brands and a wide range of other domestic and international buyers.

The Vietnam International Trade Fair for Apparel, Textiles and Textile Technologies (VIATT) is organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd and the Vietnam Trade Promotion Agency (VIETRADE), covering the entire textile industry value chain.

^[1] ‘Everything You Need to Know About Traveling to Vietnam with an APEC Business Travel Card’, April 2023, Vietnam Briefing, https://www.vietnam-briefing.com/news/apec-business-travel-card-vietnam.html/ (Retrieved: November 2023)
^[2] ‘Vietnam Introduces E-Visa for All Nationalities from August 15, 2023’, August 2023, Vietnam Briefing, https://www.vietnam-briefing.com/news/vietnam-introduces-e-visa-for-all-nationalities-from-august-15-2023.html/ (Retrieved: November 2023)
^[3] ‘Vietnam Home Textile Market Size & Share Analysis’, 2023, Mordor Intelligence, https://shorturl.at/wQVWZ (Retrieved: November 2023)
^[4] ‘Vietnam's technical fabric exports continue to be positive’, October 2022, Web Portal of Supporting Industry of Vietnam, https://shorturl.at/lmnvX (Retrieved: November 2023)