From the Sector

FILPUCCI GROUP proceeds along the path of commitment towards an ever more responsible innovation. The group takes part in the 83rd edition of Pitti Filati (June 27-29, 2018) with unique products, high-end knitwear and creative yarns, all resulting from the authentic Smart Innovation the company has been long committed to.
 
Research, style and fashion are key words for the world-renown Tuscan company, which unveils an always more responsible approach both at a corporate level and in terms of offer.
Here are some key elements to prove Filpucci’s relentless commitment:

• The GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) and OCS (Organic Content Standard) certifications obtained by the Filpucci dyeing plant add to the Clear to Wear (CTW) standard developed by Inditex Group and achieved in 2014 and to the Detox commitment, which was signed in February, 2016.
• Not only the best raw materials, but also an established knowhow in the fields of dyeing and finishing, always under the key concept of Responsible Innovation. This concept extends to each and every FILPUCCI collection and their ever-increasing offer, the roughly twenty innovative new items, the Woolen line of carded yarns and the real spearhead of premium fashion, the Collection. Among this season’s new offer: Baby Camel Re.Verso™, RWS- certified merino organic wool, Re.Verso™ cashmere, organic silks and FSC-certified viscose.
• The achievement of further certifications such as the FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) for viscose shows the care and respect towards the ecosystem as a whole, guaranteeing a product derived from a forest or a plantation forest in the respect of strict environmental, social and economic standards. The RWS (Responsible Wool Standard) finally guarantees the use of wool coming from livestock managed under rigorous criteria oriented towards the wellbeing of animals and the reduction of environmental impact.
• Filpucci Group is all about a constant vocation towards new generation values and a reliable, traceable and transparent manufacturing process, as shown by the Re.Verso™ circular economy supply chain, of which the group is a unique ambassador in the field of high-end/low-impact knitwear yarns.

With absolute quality always in mind, FILPUCCI GROUP represents a corporate model that has made of sustainability a real mission, embarking on complex paths that have brought great results with fashionable textile solutions lead by ethnical and sustainable values. Thanks to this, Filpucci’s products have become part of Patagonia Collections, an important acknowledging from the brand’s part, whose managers stated: “We are always on the hunt for the highest performing, lowest impact materials. We were thrilled to find Re.Verso ™ (95/5 transformed) Cashmere yarn from Filpucci. It allowed us to create a range of products with the insulative and soft properties of cashmere while adhering to our mission statement; build the best product, cause no unnecessary harm.”
FILPUCCI GROUP’s commitment is evident and it moves forward thanks to the passion towards responsible and innovative paths that contribute to turning the group into a reliable partner, symbol of quality and excellence.

Filpucci is also a C.L.A.S.S. (Creativity Lifestyle And Sustainable Synergy) partner.

Attendees of the Association for Professionals in Infection Control and Epidemiology (APIC) expo confirmed Thursday the value of effective guidelines for properly handling clean linen, substantiating Hygienically Clean Healthcare certified operators’ efforts to help them ensure linen remains safe and clean when it reaches patients.

Visitors to the Hygienically Clean exhibit at APIC’s Annual Conference were supported in this respect by receiving Handling Clean Linen in a Healthcare Environment, a guide produced by these certified linen, uniform and facility services operators. APIC attendees shared anecdotes of mishandling clean linen in their workplaces including:

• Employees holding and carrying stacks of bed linen and towels touching their chests
• Commingling clean and soiled linen
• Storing linen in closets in guest rooms instead of a secure linen room

Certified operators’ certification fees provided funding for creating and distributing the guide (and other resources for healthcare facilities), manifesting the Hygienically Clean program’s philosophy of addressing healthcare providers’ operational needs outside the scope of outsourced laundries’ traditional functions.

Angela Freeman, Hygienically Clean program manager, explained the importance of such laundries partnering with healthcare providers to create and implement plans to ensure clean textiles are delivered to patients. “When healthcare textiles (HCTs) reach a facility’s doors, an outsourced laundry’s role in maintaining their hygiene depends greatly on how the service agreement addresses linen distribution. Hygienically Clean’s resources for healthcare providers reflect the willingness of our certified operators to partner with their customers.”

A video version of the clean linen guide is in the works. TRSA, the global association for the linen and uniform services industry and Hygienically Clean administrator, continues to build the industry’s appreciation for partnering with healthcare customers.

In May, TRSA introduced Producing Hygienically Clean Textiles, an e-learning class to help laundry employees understand their roles in the processes, procedures and policies necessary to produce clean linens and uniforms. TRSA’s annual Healthcare Conference has guided industry managers in progressive linen distribution techniques to aid their training of their customers in these.

India is a very important market for the German textile machinery industry, with an export of more than €255 million (+ 8 %) in 2017. Many German machinery builders have longstanding relations with Indian customers and quite a number of them also provide production plants and training centres in India. Not surprisingly, about 370 decision-makers and experts from the textile and nonwoven related industry attended the VDMA conference and B2B event called “German Technology meets Indian Textiles and Nonwovens” in Mumbai on 15-16 May 2018 (www.germantech-indiantextile.de).

According to a survey, both the event and German textile machinery engineering received the highest marks among the visitors. About 57 % of the visitors stated very good and 38 % good experience with machines and components from German suppliers. The performance and service promise as well as the high-quality standards have made German machine suppliers as most reliable partners in India and other countries. This positive result has by far not been reached by any other manufacturing nation from Europe or Asia. Asked for future processes, investments in technical textiles and/or nonwoven production seem to be the most favorite sectors in India. Around 74 % of the visitors plan to expand their production capacities with new machines and components whereas 26 % intend to replace old machinery by new machines and components. High productivity, after-sales service, end-product quality, low operating and acquisition costs are the decisive machine procurement criteria in this order. The investments plans are based on a positive business and investment outlook in India. 45 % of the visitors surveyed plan to invest more than 10 % within the next 12 months and 30 % up to 10 %. 25 % of the visitors expect a sales increase by more than 10 % for the next 12 months and 60 % anticipate a sales growth of up to 10%.

Considering this positive business climate and the high interest from the Indian industry, the 32 well-known VDMA members participated in the conference have good chances to offer the right technologies and to place new orders. The presented technology topics along the entire textile value chain will help the Indian industry to fulfill their expansion plans and to meet the challenges such as rising salary costs and shortage of labor in industrial regions. The major cutting-edge topics of the conference program were as follows:

•    Higher profits throughout the entire textile value chain
•    Energy, material, water and dyestuff savings for an environmentally friendly production
•    New applications such as technical textiles, nonwovens (e. g. hygiene products) or home textiles (e. g. terry towels)
•    Automation, industry 4.0, digital communication and smart factory solutions
•    Quality improvements e. g. with measurement and control systems
•    Lower investment costs in spinning preparation with integrated draw frames
•    New technologies to combine spinning and knitting
•    Smart textiles and added value products e. g. with embroidery machines

Whereas the event on 15-16 May 2018 focused on customers, a training session at the prestigious Veermata Jijabai Technological Institute VJTI in Mumbai on 17 May 2018 was addressed to future engineers. More than 220 textile manufacturing and mechanical engineering students followed the technical presentations. The VDMA's contribution to improve the education of future customers and partners was very much appreciated.

• Additives, pigments and masterbatches for transportation, packaging, textiles & fibers
• Support to “future-proof” medical applications
• Contributing towards more sustainable engineering plastics

Clariant, a world leader in specialty chemicals, turns the spotlight on its increasing on-the-ground support and innovation focus for North America’s four key plastics application segments at NPE 2018 Booth S18155.

Clariant is pushing forward with plans for growth in the region by advancing R&D competencies, and increasing its manufacturing footprint and technical capabilities across its 50+ sites, 3 R&D and 6 technical innovation centers. Clariant’s innovations for the plastics industry include advanced additives, masterbatches and pigments which support the packaging sector in engaging consumers via differentiated, convenient solutions. At NPE, it will also highlight solutions for enhancing and protecting healthcare products, as well as its contribution to stronger and colorful textiles and fibers for everything from e-mobility to industrial applications.

Deepak Parikh, president of region North America, Clariant comments: “Clariant’s product innovation for the US and wider North American plastics industry embraces the region’s fastest growing end-use areas of automotive and construction. It also addresses the impact of trends driven by changing consumer lifestyle preferences and market regulations on other important segments such as packaging and healthcare.”

Transportation
Clariant brings color and protection to support the increasing use of engineering plastics and high temperture resins in automotive interiors, exteriors and under-the-hood. Halogen-free Exolit® OP 1400 provides outstanding flame retardancy to polyamide parts, enhances safety with UL 94 V0 performance down to 0.4 mm and enables the molding of complex parts with no mold deposits and blooming. Exolit OP 1400 has been awarded the Clariant EcoTain®label for outstanding sustainability and performance. At the same time, Clariant offers low-halogen controlled high-performance PV Fast® pigmentswith excellent migration and weather fastness properties to meet the high requirements of today’s transportation and automotive industry. Easy processing Renol® compounds and masterbatches for engineering and high temperature resins provide heat and light stability, and flame retardancy, while maintaining critical flow properties in parts like SMT connectors. Importantly, they are available as small lots which enables customers to purchase only what they require and contribute to a reduction in their carbon footprint.

Packaging
As US packaging manufacturers explore more consumer-friendly, lighterweight and appealing solutions, Clariant is on hand to support their functionality, sustainability-related and color desires. Clariant Pigments has an innovative cooperation with Konica Minolta and matchmycolor to enable fast, precise and efficient color matching of HDPE products, using select organic PV Fast and Graphtol® pigments that comply with FDA regulations. The ColorWorks®center in Chicago is dedicated to US brand managers and designers with teams of color design experts to create color formulations faster than ever before for bottles, caps, closures and films.

According to market reports, plastic pouches are gaining share from traditional pack types in packaged food and are mainstream in home care. To support smoother and more environmentally-compatible processing especially for film applications, Clariant offers an FDA-compliant, vegetable-based powder amide wax, Licolub® FA 1, which acts as a slip and anti-block agent. It is suitable for polyolefins and PVC.

Textiles & Fiber
At NPE 2018, Clariant puts the focus on strong and colorful textiles, carpets and industrial fibers. New AddWorks® TFB 117 offers a number of benefits to help stabilize and smoothen fiber production processes, protect color, and improve heat stability and mechanical properties of fibers. AddWorks TFB 117 ensures smooth spinnability with less filaments breakage, even at low processing temperatures and at high speed spinning up to 5,500 m/min. Clariant also offers a broad range of colorants for polypropylene, polyester, polyamide and acrylic fibers, featuring migration fastness, chemical stability, light- and weather-fastness.

Healthcare
Clariant supports risk control and regulatory compliance for medical polymer and pharmaceutical packaging solutions. Its Mevopur® color and performance masterbatches and compounds include a USP Class 6 line of compliant products and multiple global ISO, 87, 88, and 661.1 certifications ahead of the market deadline. Clariant also offers selected FDA-compliant organic pigments and polymer soluble dyes that meet purity migration fastness as well as toxicological properties for medical devices and pharmaceutical packaging.

The automotive market is undergoing a period of great change. Global demand for light vehicles is increasing, but at slower rates than seen in previous years, and this is resulting in ever greater competition between carmakers. At the same time, the technological capabilities that can be offered are advancing rapidly. Areas such as autonomous driving, connectivity, interior comfort and the customization of vehicles in line with personal taste are becoming key ways that manufacturers can differentiate themselves and win market share. Indeed, automotive supplier Lear, recently unveiled a new biometric ‘smart’ seat, that tracks a driver’s health indicators.

These trends are having a knock-on effect for suppliers. For original equipment manufacturers (OEMs), being able to satisfy diverse consumer preferences is now considered more of a success factor than getting a vehicle to production faster than the competition. Across the automotive supply chain — and especially for those involved in the production of car seats and interiors — a growing emphasis on interior styling and luxury components has created new challenges that are further compounded by increasing cost pressures.

Although news coverage about the automotive industry tends to focus on such innovations as ‘driverless’ cars and ‘intelligent’ vehicles, one of the most farreaching changes occurring is this trend towards personalization: how automotive manufacturers are managing to make mass-produced items unique. Not only are manufacturers increasing the number of models they are offering but also the options available to a consumer per model. The Vauxhall Adam is a case in point: consumers can have more than 1 million different combinations when they order the car.

To cope with these challenges, suppliers will need to re-evaluate and improve their production processes. Within this context, the integration of smart solutions and services, and the replacement of production tools that are incompatible with connected factory concepts, will be vital. The combination of Software as a Service (SaaS) with the cloud is already opening up new horizons for innovation. Factories remain at the heart of the value chain. But Industry 4.0 is revolutionizing mass production, allowing more and more large-scale, personalized — and profitable — manufacturing, with greater quality and no added costs or delays.

As customer expectations reach new levels, it is especially important that suppliers in the automotive cutting value chain ramp up their transformation, adopting the technologies and services shaping Industry 4.0. For years, OEMs and suppliers alike have used foam and frames to develop patterns for producing seat covers in material or leather. The automotive industry was among the first to use sophisticated 3D computer-aided design (CAD) programs for the design and development of vehicles. But it has taken time for this technology to be used extensively for seat covers. Although 80% of fabric seating and interiors are currently cut digitally, only 10% of leather seats are cut using this method. The majority of suppliers of automotive leather seating still rely heavily on manual cutting equipment, such as die and roller presses.

To gain the agility and flexibility to remain relevant and competitive in a market that is dictating more change, variants, and faster reaction times, close cooperation between OEMs and suppliers is necessary. For if even one aspect of the process fails to provide sufficient flexibility, speed to market and consistent quality, then the entire chain will be impacted.

In such a complicated and fast-moving market, only the most adaptable and innovative companies will succeed. The solutions that form part of the Industry 4.0 framework will help give suppliers the capacity to adapt and thrive in this new environment. For more Information please find the complete White Paper attached.

On Thursday, March 22nd, C.L.A.S.S., with support from the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), will invite fashion’s industry leaders, designers and members of the press to celebrate An Evening of Smart Innovation.  An exceptional team of artists, filmmakers, food and textile designers have created an immersive experience that will engage the guests’ senses highlighting that smart innovation is the new standard for fashion. The experience will examine the four key areas that are vital to C.L.A.S.S.’s business philosophy: Heritage - Smart Innovation - Circular Economy - Design Responsibility. The commitment to those principles and to forward thinking led to C.L.A.S.S. having been nominated as one of the European Business Awards 2017/2018 Ones to Watch for exceptional growth, significant innovation along with an ethical approach to business.

The March 22nd date is a deliberate choice as it marks International Water Day and serves as a way to advocate for sustainable water management, a key issue in textile manufacturing. Many of C.L.A.S.S.’s partners, such as ECOTEC® by Marchi&Fildi, Bemberg™ and ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei and TINTEX Textiles use technological breakthroughs to offer fashion materials that provide significant reductions in water during the manufacturing process, an important step toward responsible future fashion systems.

“In touting significant reductions in water, energy usage and CO2 emissions, C.L.A.S.S.’s  message has always been one of consistency but now with today’s customers becoming increasingly environmentally mindful, the timing has never been better to bring awareness to the ways that responsible sustainability can be incorporated, in an authentic way, into a fashion or lifestyle brand increasing the bottom line without compromising design integrity,” said C.L.A.S.S. founder Giusy Bettoni.

The future is already here; guests can see and feel materials during the event that showcase technological breakthroughs currently available. While C.L.A.S.S. works with leading brands that practice responsible design, the next step is to expand their reach and set a new level of standards that benefit the entire industry. To that end, they have identified C.L.A.S.S. Education, their new division, as an essential learning resource to support fashion schools. The new division was co-founded with James Mendolia, professor in the MFA Fashion Design program at Fashion Institute of Technology. C.L.A.S.S. will also launch C.L.A.S.S. e-commerce platform, which will sell partner materials to support emerging designers and fashion start-ups.

Thank you to all of our partners for making this event and the last ten years possible: Bacx by Centro Seta, Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei, ECOTEC® by Marchi & Fildi, Organic Cotton Colours, Re.VerSo™, ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei, TINTEX Textiles, Zignone.

• Innovative Textile Processes

Innovations are welcome. Based on innovations, many changes in textile processing are leading to more efficiency in process workflows. At the International Cotton Conference in Bremen on Wednesday, March 21st, Session IV Textile Processing, which takes place from 4:00 pm to 6:00 pm, is dedicated to this subject area and attractive examples.

Sustainable
Michael Tuschak, Mayer & Cie., Germany, informs about the 3-in-1 concept of Spinitsystems. Spinning, cleaning and knitting are all combined in one machine. This enables the production process of high-quality single jersey knitwear to be shortened significantly, which saves energy costs and reduces CO2 emissions.

Indigo.
An old dye returns to glory. Dr. Dean Etheridge of Texas Tech University, USA, talks about a new, innovative indigo dyeing process for cotton yarns using foam. This saves large amounts of water and is now increasingly being used by major brands in jeans production.

Efficient.
Amin Leder, Trützschler GmbH & Co. KG, Germany, presents a technique in which the stretching process for rotor yarn production does not take place in a separate machine, but is integrated into the carding. This makes it possible to efficiently process even cotton with a higher waste content.

Overview.
Harald Schwippel, from Rieter, Switzerland, summarises all four major spinning technologies for cotton – ring spinning, compact spinning, rotor spinning and air-jet spinning. His talk provides an overview of the possibilities that each of these processes currently offers for the manufacture of different yarns and the most efficient options for different applications.

More to know
In the run-up to the International Cotton Conference, the Fibre Institute Bremen and the Cotton Exchange are organising a specific seminar for spinning mills on Tuesday, dealing with the efficient handling of contaminants in cotton, from elimination in production to removal in winding. On Friday morning, Expert Session IX deals with the exchange of the latest research results, e.g. in the field of ginning in relation to cotton quality, or the important issue of checking the traceability of GMO-free cotton.

Wielsbeke, Belgium – February 26, 2018 – Beaulieu Fibres International, the leading European polyolefin fibre producer, is once again the proud recipient of a “Distinguished Supplier” European Supplier Award from Yanfeng Automotive Interiors (YFAI). It is the second year in succession that the global leader in automotive interiors has recognised the significant expertise and support provided by Beaulieu Fibres International.

The very close cooperation between the two companies in 2017 enabled YFAI to successfully develop its latest generation of lightweight door panels, helping to further reduce weight. The technical team at Beaulieu Fibres International worked closely with YFAI’s development team to achieve this important step forward for the automotive industry.

Beaulieu Fibres International was presented with the award at YFAI’s annual European Supplier Award ceremony held this year on February 7th at its European headquarters in Neuss, Germany.

A total of 15 suppliers providing plastics, resins, chemicals, foams, trim and metal components received the European Supplier Award in various categories in recognition of their outstanding performance in 2017. Suppliers are rated on the factors of quality, cost, customer satisfaction, development, technology and innovation, and service.

DyStar and RotaSpray successfully developed their indigo spray dyeing procedure for production on a bulk level which allows denim producers to significantly reduce their environmental impact.

The solution was first introduced at ITMA Milan in 2015. Since then, DyStar and RotaSpray have been working together to develop it further and make it available for bulk production in important Denim markets like Turkey, India and Pakistan. With the recent breakthrough, they are now announcing a salt-less dyeing solution for the denim industry. This new technology is awarded important ECO certificates and offers high flexibility for dyeing small lot sizes, reduced water usage and effluent discharge lower impact on yarn in the dyeing process and simplified recipe changes.

The new Spray dyeing technology combines DyStar Indigo Vat 40% Solution, Sera® Con C-RDA (a unique organic reducing agent) and the effective optimization of spraying parameters of the EPO patented RotoDyer® and the RotoCoater® spraying technology. Although rotary atomizers have been established for several decades in the textile industry they were mainly used for rewetting textiles with moisture. But recent cost pressure and a global demand for more sustainable solutions were motivators for the R&D of the industry and led to the recent technology leap.

On sheet dyeing ranges (slasher), with process and layout modifications, coatings including DyStar Indigo Coat, Cassulfon®, Remazol®/Levafix® and Imperon® dyes can be applied by spray dyeing as well. The spray application of fixing agents and oxidation chemicals can be integrated into sheet dyeing (slasher) as well as rope dyeing machines.

At the Munich Fabric Start in Munich, TINTEX proudly announced its complete switch from the use of conventional cotton and the concomitant launch of a new fabric range that is the highest expression of the new generation of cotton: Naturally Advanced Cotton by TINTEX.

This new range is able to offer an advanced smart choice of 4 different premium and responsible advanced cotton solutions such as BCI Cotton, ECOTEC® by Marchi & Fildi, GOTS certified organic cotton and Supima. These new fabrics maintain and upgrade the transparent, hi-tech and sustainable organics that are at the heart of the TINTEX DNA. They represent better, smarter ecomaterials with new levels of performance and hi-tech smarts, thanks to a first class expertise in specialist dyeing and finishing techniques, coatings and applications that use the latest research, equipment and processes to deliver it. 

This new launch is confirming once more the commitment of TINTEX to its ‘Naturally Advanced’ position meaning “advancing beautiful, organic and natural materials to the next level combined with unique, hybrid ‘nature-tech’ smarts, with added value and creativity, thanks to dedicated investments that serve and secure our customer’s demands both now and in the seasons to come” says CEO Mario Jorge Silva.

The “Naturally Advanced Cotton” on Collection by TINTEX:

BCI cotton: The Better Cotton Initiative has specific aims:

• Reduce the environmental impact of cotton production
• Improve livelihoods and economic development in cotton producing areas
• Improve commitment to and flow of Better Cotton throughout supply chain.

ECOTEC® by Marchi & Fildi: a range of full-colour yarns, a smarter cotton made from pre-consumer clippings that save up to 77,9% water during manufacture. This season TINTEX is also introducing a new, finer ECOTEC® yarn called Phoenix, also GRS certified, being made from 50% ECOTEC® cotton and 50% recycled polyester. Here wellbeing credentials are guaranteed with Tessile e Salute* certification. 

GOTS Organic Cotton: The Global Organic Textile Standard GOTS is the most important standard for sustainable production of garments and natural fiber textile products from organic farming such as organic cotton or organic wool. GOTS criteria measures environmental, technical quality, toxicity and social impacts. GOTS is backed by independent certification for the entire supply chain.

Supima Cotton: Luxury, quality and craftsmanship are the benchmarks of American-grown, extra-long staple cotton. TINTEX offers 100% Supima precious fabrics and blends with tencel.

These special 4 cotton actors are made even more “advanced” by unique smart finishing as Plummy and Naturally Clean, for clean surfaces, bright colours, outstanding touch always with a very careful eye at the responsible values.