From the Sector

Following the successful commissioning of two new Monforts Montex wide-width stenter lines and additional environmental management equipment at its plant in Germany, GtA – Society for Textile Equipment GmbH – is aiming to be the first textile finishing company to become entirely CO2-neutral in the manufacture of all of its products by 2025.

GtA is a partner company to Germany’s large-format digital printing fabric leader, Georg and Otto Friedrich GmbH, which has has this year been able to considerably expand its portfolio due to the new Monforts lines.

Headquartered in Gross-Zimmern, close to Frankfurt, Georg and Otto Friedrich GmbH and its partners in Germany have an annual production of 37 million square metres of warp knits for a range of end-use applications, including garments, automotive interiors and technical textiles, but increasingly with a concentration on digital printing substrates.

Fault-free textiles

A new standard in pure white, 100% clean and fault-free textile substrates has been demanded by this market in recent years due to the rapid growth in digitally-printed banners and billboards – often referred to as ‘soft signage’.

The substrates of choice for digital printing are 100% polyester warp knits which are resilient and allow excellent take-up of inks, and vibrant colours and clear and precise images to be achieved with digital printing techniques. The knitted construction also has the advantage of elasticity, which is a plus in terms of flexibility for installers.

Critically, the warp knitted fabrics have extremely smooth surfaces which is becoming increasingly important due to the general move away from PVC coatings which were the standard in the past.

It was to finish these fabrics for Georg and Otto Friedrich GmbH as well as providing such services for many other customers, that the GtA plant in Neresheim, Baden-Württemberg, was established in 2015.

The purpose-built plant on a greenfield site was initially equipped with a fully-automated, 72 metre long Monforts installation comprising a washing machine integrated with a 3.6 metre wide, seven-chamber Montex stenter. The line quickly went from single to double shift production and then to 24/7 operation  to meet demand.

Expanded widths

Building on the success of this installation, GtA has now installed two more Montex stenter lines – both in expanded working widths of 5.6 metres and purpose-built at Montex GmbH in Austria.

A six-chamber Montex unit is combined with a washing machine to guarantee the purity of the substrates, while a five-chamber line is integrated with a wide-width coating machine. This new coating capability at GtA has led to a number of new additions to the Georg and Otto Friedrich DecoTex range for digital printing, including wide width fabrics with flame retardant, antimicrobial and non-slip finishes.

The new Montex stenter lines benefit from all of the latest innovations from Monforts, including the Smart Sensor system for the optimised maintenance planning of key mechanical wear components on the stenters. A comprehensive overview of the condition of all parts at any time is now available for operators within the highly intuitive Qualitex visualization software.

With Qualitex, all article-specific settings can be stored and the formulations for thousands of treatment processes called up again at any time. Individual operators can also personalise their dashboards with the most important machine functions and process parameters.

Environmental commitment

GtA is run by a seasoned team of textile professionals led by Managing Director Andreas Niess.

“We have received excellent service from Monforts from the outset and we were happy to place the order for these two new lines as part of our ongoing cooperation,” he says. “With all of the latest Monforts advances in technology we are fully in control of all production and quality parameters with these lines, as part of our significant commitment to innovative environmental technology.”

The GtA plant, which operates in near-cleanroom conditions, has also been equipped with proprietary technology to fully exploit the Monforts air-to-air heat recovery systems that are now standard with Montex stenters.

“Around 30 per cent of our investment volume at the site goes to energy-saving measures and we are sure that this commitment is worthwhile,” Mr Niess says. “As an example, our integrated heat recovery system fully exploits the waste heat from the process exhaust air and the burner exhaust gases of the Monforts stenters, allowing us to achieve an exhaust air temperature of  between 30 to 34°C, compared to what would conventionally be between 140 to 160°C. Another focus has been on exhaust air purification technology and here too, the latest technology has been installed with integrated heat recovery elements.”

This, he adds, saves 52% of the energy that would normally be used – equating to 5,800,000 KwH per year. The necessary audits for energy-efficient companies are also carried out annually.

In addition, GtA has purpose-designed the automatic chemical mixing and dosing systems that feed the padders for the key treatments that are carried out on the fabrics through the stenters.

The company is going further, however, in its pursuit of clean production and raw materials.

"We want to be an asset and not a burden on our immediate environment and therefore do not use any additives containing solvents," Mr Niess says. “We were the first to use fully halogen-free flame retardant chemistry, and we use bio-based, finely ground alumina products for the washing process instead of surfactants. PES polyester yarns made from recycled material are also increasingly used and the latest additions to our raw materials portfolio, the RC-Ocean products, are made from recycled sea plastic.

“We are now planning a combined heat and power plant for the production of electrical energy and heat and we will also build a photovoltaic system that converts solar radiation into electrical energy. GtA wants to be the first textile finishing company to be CO2-neutral in the manufacture of all of its products by 2025. The complete heat supply and heating for the 13,000 square metre production hall, as well as the office building and the hot water supply for the domestic water, is already energy-neutral. We are convinced that this commitment will pay off in the long term and our positive business development proves that sustainability and business profitability are perfectly compatible.”

In addition to the products for Georg and Otto Friedrich GmbH, GtA  offers its manufacturing capacities for other customers as a contract service.

All products are manufactured in accordance with Öko-Tex Standard 100, product class 1 and the company is also involved in the research and development of new sustainable manufacturing processes, in cooperation with many regional universities and funding project partners.

• Diana, Giusy, Simona and Marina. The call to action of the fashion world was born from four women engaged in the field of sustainability. On the occasion of Fashion Revolution Week, we tell you their story and the results achieved

A task force of Italian textile companies active in our area supported the first call to action launched at the fashion world by four women who have always been involved in the field of sustainability. The appeal launched on March 19th by the green journalist Diana de Marsanich, Giusy Bettoni, founder and CEO of C.L.A.S.S. (Creativity Lifestyle and Sustainable Synergy)the eco multi-platform hub specialized in integrating a new generation of eco values into fashion, products and companies, Simona Roveda, Editorial Director and Director of Institutional Communication of LifeGate and Marina Spadafora, Italian Country Coordinator of Fashion Revolution and currently collaborating with Luxury Fashion Brands to implement responsible strategies in their companies have luaunched a call-to-action project which has brought together textile companies to manufacture PPE garments for the medical staff working in San Gerardo Hospital in Monza, near Milan.

The companies that answered the call-to-action are: Filo d’Oro, Mantero, ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei, C.L.A.S.S. (Creativity Lifestyle and Sustainable Synergy) e Zerobarracento, Iluna Group, Lg Electronics, Jimmy Lion, Personal Genomics, Isamar Holyday Village, Marcolin Eyewear, Maglificio Ripa.

During the last weeks the 4 women collected about 1,800 non-drip cotton and non-woven TNT gowns for sanitary use, about 400 protective masks for multipurpose washable, bacteriostatic, breathable and water-repellent prevention, 1,000 washable cotton surgical caps, 150 complete protective googles eye masks, two microwave ovens for hospital departments to offer support to medical and healthcare personnel by helping them in the few breaks during the grueling shifts of this period, a supply of samples of cotton socks, 300 cotton masks + polyester outer layer, water-repellent and antibacterial, and free weekly stays made available to doctors, nurses, civil protection personnel and families with related children involved in the Covid-19 pandemic.

Sateri has scored ‘A-‘ in CDP (formerly Carbon Disclosure Project) for Climate Change in 2019, placing it at Leadership band and the top 27% of companies in its sector, for implementing current best practices. And making Sateri World’s First Viscose Producer to Reach Leadership Band

This is the first time Sateri has participated in this annual voluntary reporting. It is also the first time that a viscose producer has reached Leadership band. Sateri attained an ‘A’ for more than half of the 11 categories that it was assessed for, including value chain engagement, Scope 1,2,3 emissions, and governance. Its ‘A-‘ overall score is higher than the ‘C’ average globally, in Asia, and in the Textiles and Fabric Goods sector; no companies in the same sector scored ‘A’.

Allen Zhang, President of Sateri, said, “We are very pleased to achieve such a commendable score on our first attempt at CDP reporting. It is a validation of our efforts and actions to combat climate change and our contribution towards decarbonising the textile industry. The CDP platform not only helps us measure and benchmark our sustainability performance against more than 8,400 companies globally, but also serves as a management tool for continuous improvement.”

Sateri has made great strides in the last year on emission reduction work. In June 2019, Sateri and the China National Textile and Apparel Council (CNTAC) jointly launched the EcoCosy® Climate Leadership Programme. The programme invites Sateri’s value chain partners to participate in the Climate Stewardship 2030 Initiative to set a decarbonisation pathway for the fashion industry to reduce the industry’s GHG emissions by 30% by 2030. Results of the first phase of the programme were published in the EcoCosy® Climate Leadership Whitepaper 2020, which was shared at COP25 in Madrid last year.

Artisan craft, experience and high eco-technological specialization: the great tradition of fabrics for shirts which styles the future.

Search for quality, the ability to interpret elegance and a product inspired by tradition, though always trendy: these are the distinctive traits which define the vocation of Canclini 1925, a point of reference worldwide for shirt fabric manufacturing. This expertise is implemented through dynamic creativity and 100% Made in Italy artisan  craft. These are the foundations which make the history and capability of Canclini 1925 unique, as standard bearer for everlasting style.

All this results from an authentic family tradition which, for three generations, has been the driving force of the company, shaping each collection. This passion is at the service of tireless search in terms of style and technology which underlies the whole Canclini 1925 innovative approach. The goal is to offer, through its fabrics, an inimitable experience, “creating wellbeing” and emotion through touch alone, respecting the environment and humans.

Founded in 1925, Canclini has always been a company able to combine extraordinary creativity and product care, established as a silk factory in the Como region. This tradition was renewed in the 1960s with the shift to the cotton sector, aiming more and more at customer service, developing a partnership and trust relation. Working with Canclini 1925 means reaching into the tradition of a family which has always been passionate about its work, dynamic, creative and focused on continuous innovation.

These are distinctive and qualifying elements in the Canclini 1925 approach. An approach which, in line with the research and development pathway on which the company has always invested substantial resources, also involves considerable attention the topic of environmental and social accountability. This commitment is confirmed by numerous and prestigious certifications in the company portfolio, starting from the careful selection of raw materials to its social commitment. More specifically, Canclini 1925 has been awarded the GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard), SUPIMA COTTON (the Pima “Gossypium Barbadense” cotton, classified as Extra-long Staple) certifications, following the Standard 100 by OECO-TEX®, BCI (Better Cotton Initiative) and GRS (Global Recycle Standard). A comprehensive range of tools which, combined with its in-house know-how and expertise capital, enhances the portfolio of Canclini 1925 branded innovations.

This accountability approach also encompasses the social area with the association “Un sorriso in più” (“One extra smile”). Founded and managed by the company, it is a non-profit organisation engaged in projects which include assistance in nursing homes to elderly persons without family ties, as well as in the support to children living difficult and disadvantaged family situations, focusing its activity on “human life quality”. The uniqueness generated by this meeting between tradition and innovation is the driving force behind corporate research, as well as the truly distinctive reason for its style and technology development. The high-performance looms and technologies used make the company strong and flexible enough for contemporary market requirements. The trademark passion of the Canclini family completes the picture within which the company operates, true to an approach which is at the same time artisan and high-tech, a point of reference in Italy and worldwide.

Thanks to its substantial manufacturing capacity, Canclini today is present on all of the most influential shirt markets worldwide, and – with its new Blue 1925 line - also in the denim world. In this way the company has succeeded in positioning itself among major players in textile manufacturing, authentically Italian because of its farsighted  business vision, care for details and production flexibility. It is the approach which – over the years - has allowed the group to take over important enterprises in the sector, for example Hausmann-Moos and Profilo Tessile, Maglificio Mida and Grandi & Rubinelli.
According to Simone Canclini, CEO of Canclini 1925: “What characterises the Canclini 1925 spirit is first and foremost genuine passion driven by our inspiring principles: quality, style and service. These elements have allowed us to become and remain a point of reference worldwide, to rediscover the everyday – basic and exciting – emotion of choosing a special shirt”.

Young, all-Italian dream-team will lead Pinko to a next level

Pinko looks ahead. Evolution & revolution are the keywords for the new management’s strategies. For the first time, President Pietro Negra will be supported by an all-Italian young team to build the success of the brand from now on. Research and innovation have always been part of the Pinko DNA: once again, they lead the path to cutting edge management.

The Pinko family grows with figures fully trained in the realms of fashion, luxury and retail, the actual Pinko R-evolution kickstart. “We pondered on Pinko’s future,” says Pietro Negra, President of Cris Conf in Fidenza (Parma), which he founded with his wife Cristina Negra and which controls Pinko. “This is just the beginning of a bigger project to be disclosed step by step in the next few months. The company turnover is a crucial point for any family business willing to preserve its independence. We believe in the power of younger generations. Therefore we created an all-Italian team to boost an already successful business model.”

Federico Bonelli, with experiences in Ernst & Young, The Boston Consulting Group and Bain & Company has been appointed General Manager. Emanuele Bianchi, previously in Diesel Coccinelle and Dolce & Gabbana, takes on as Marketing & Communication Director. Cecilia and Caterina Negra, the founders’ daughters and pivotal figures of Pinko’s success, confirm their roles leading respectively the Communication and the Creative department. Caterina Salvador becomes Director of Style and Product after working in Giorgio Armani, Hugo Boss, Calvin Klein, Dolce & Gabbana, Coin. More talents will be eventually hired.

Bally, the historic Swiss luxury brand is pleased to announce the appointment of two key figures to its executive team, completing the process of strategic redevelopment begun last year with the transfer of the Creative, Merchandising and Marketing offices from London to its new showroom in Milan.

Effective immediately, Eva Quirrenbach joins Bally as Chief Marketing Officer following a term in New York as Vice President of Global Brand Marketing at Tory Burch, having previously occupied strategic roles within the Tod’s Group in both Italy and the United States. Eva is a recognised expert in all aspects of international branding and marketing within the luxury sector, and with her proven understanding of consumer behaviour, she played an integral role in the development and acceleration of the digital footprint and in supporting global brand development at Tory Burch.

“Eva is an excellent addition to the Bally team. The combination of a consolidated experience and understanding of luxury brands along with her background driving the strategic development of successful global projects make her the ideal leader to drive Bally's commitment to unified commerce on a global level".
Frédéric De Narp, Bally Group CEO

Bally has moved to a three-pronged regional strategy and as such is also pleased to announce the promotion of Silvia Onofri to a new role as CEO for the EMEA region, in addition to her current role as Vice President of Global Wholesale. During her time in Bally, Silvia has obtained outstanding results entering top tier multi-brand doors around the world and increasing Bally's footprint in Travel Retail to make the brand a global leader in the field.

Silvia has extensive experience in the global fashion and luxury industry, having first joined the Bally team 10 years ago, following key marketing roles in Bulgari.

“Silvia has the unique benefit of intimately understanding the Bally brand and it’s DNA, and having proven experience in forging new relationships with the world’s leading retailers and their customers. With this invaluable expertise in hand, I am confident that she will infuse the EMEA Retail division with enthusiasm, professionalism and unique market insights to take Bally to the next level in these crucial markets” -
Frédéric De Narp.

The arrival of Eva Quirrenbach and the promotion of Silvia Onofri are part of Bally Group CEO Frédéric de Narp’s ongoing strategic vision to infuse Bally’s prestigious brand identity with heightened dynamism, appeal and allure.
Both roles report directly to Bally’s Group CEO, Frederic de Narp.

Paris - On April 12th 2018, top European talents from 120 campuses will compete in the fourth edition of the Morpheus Cup to showcase their skills and highlight their most innovative projects. After Luxembourg in 2017, the event will take place in 2018 at the Palais Brongniart (Stock Exchange) in Paris and will focus on burning topics such as Digital Transformation, Creativity, Deeptech, Circular Economy, Ecommerce and much more.

Since its launch in 2015, the Morpheus Cup has been placed under the high patronage of the European Commission with the support of Commissioners Marianne Thyssen and Carlos Moedas in 2017. "The championship is a great opportunity for young people to showcase their skills and to help to bridge the gap between universities, schools and the European employment market. In the Commission, we believe that the right skills not only improve young people's life chances, but also act as a driver for our future competitiveness and growth" underlines Mrs. Thyssen.

In the last three years, the event already attracted hundreds of campus from more than 20 countries and rewarded many of them including Warshaw School of Economics, Mannheim Business School, HEC Paris, Polytechnique Nantes, universities from Oxford, Berlin, Luxembourg, Athens, and Barcelona.

New challenges for new talents

The next edition will take the competition to another level by featuring tech, business, science, marketing, creative challenges in five different rooms, suggesting meetings with employers, innovative brands and investors through 50 stands and presenting not less than 20 categories for students to submit their projects/startups ideas (Morpheus Prize). Apart from the live experiences and challenges designed by entrepreneurs or partners of the event, almost 500 research projects and startups will be showcased to win awards, the championship and up to €50,000 worth of prizes.

Art, circular economy, human capital, smart cities, mobility, FinTech, design, industry, sport, artificial intelligence, topics, regardless of the students’ profiles and education level, invite them to be creative in many different fields.

Finalists will have to pitch in front of an international jury. Past editions welcomed jury members from Google Lunar XPrize, WarnerBros, Accenture, European Investment Fund, FC Barcelona, ESA, Canal+, Novak Djokovic Foundation etc. Daimler, Forbes, Expon Capital, Davidson, Leroy-Merlin, PwC have already joined the next edition.

Registrations are already open. First partners, jury members and employers will be unveiled before Christmas season.

The Morpheus Cup’s website unveils the main characteristics of the championship and also the past editions prize-winners.

German Federal Minister for Economic Affairs and Energy Brigitte Zypries presented the first-ever German Global Health Award at “Global Health – the International and the German Agenda”, an event with more than 200 participants from around 30 countries taking place in the context of the B20 Health Conference. The prize honours German companies, associations or individuals for innovative projects and partnerships in global health that contribute to health system strengthening in developing and emerging countries.

The German Global Health Award, under the patronage of Federal Minister Brigitte Zypries, is granted in two categories by the German Healthcare Partnership (GHP), the Federation of German Industries (BDI) and BIO Deutschland. Federal Minister Zypries lauded the work of the recipients, saying “Both projects demonstrate how the German healthcare sector drives innovation to attain the worthwhile goal of supporting global health at home and abroad,” adding, “The recognition of such work is especially important in the context of the meeting of the Health Ministers of the G20 countries taking place in Berlin later this week.”