From the Sector

Quickly becoming the benchmark for sustainability, circularity presents a simple solution for many of the world’s complex waste issues. However, in a quickly changing textile marketplace with increasing regulatory pressures, designing circular products can be anything but simple.

To help demystify this accelerating paradigm shift, the Designing for Circularity panel is coming to Portland’s Functional Fabric Fair, where expert panelists will inform and inspire the next generation of product designers and developers.

Scheduled for Wednesday, April 17th at 2:00pm and hosted by textile industry communications agency Formidable Media, the Designing for Circularity panel will bring together experts in materials sourcing, textile finishes, trims, sustainability, recycling, natural materials, and more, to help designers, product developers, and brand representatives make the choices needed to become leaders in the future of sustainable products.

“Fashion is regularly listed among the top five largest polluting industries in the world and our panel of experts hope to  help shape future design and sustainability decisions to mitigate fashion’s outsized impact on the environment,” said Scott Kaier, Founder and President of Formidable Media. “Informed and innovative design is the first step in creating circular products, so today’s designers will be instrumental in creating a cleaner, more sustainable future.”

Hand-picked from across the outdoor, fashion, lifestyle, and footwear industries, the Designing for Circularity panelists include:

• Daniel Uretsky, President, ALLIED Feather + Down
• Martin Flora, VP of Business Development, Green Theme Technologies
• Sarah Schlinger, R&D Commercialization Manager, Woolmark
• Sharon Perez, Senior Business Development Manager, Lenzing Group
• Brian La Plante, Senior Manager of Sustainability, YKK
• Theresa McKenney Director of Sustainability, NEMO Equipment

A new promotional initiative aims to boost trade relations between Italy and India in the textile sector. 11 Italian textile machinery manufacturers will be taking part in the forthcoming technological symposia scheduled in New Delhi and Mumbai from 9 to 12 April. The two events, organized by the Italian Trade Agency and supported by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and International Cooperation, will allow Italian companies to showcase their technologies to a selected audience of Indian textile entrepreneurs.

The textile sector is of great significance in the Indian economy, contributing more than 2% of the GDP and allowing the Country to be among the largest exporter of textile and apparel items. Moreover India represents the third largest foreign market for the Italian textile machinery industry.

In 2022 India imported Italian textile machinery for a total value of about 200 million euro. Referring to the first 9 months of 2023, the value shows a slight decrease compared to the value for the same period of the previous year, but the forecast for the current year remains positive.

Italian companies participating in the symposia, all of which are ACIMIT members, are: Autefa, Cubotex, Danitech, Lafer, Mcs, Monti-Mac, Reggiani Macchine, Salvadè, Savio, Sicam, Testa.

The Textile & Fashion Forum Helsinki 2023, organized by Finnish Textile & Fashion and EURATEX, highlights the discourse on sustainable practices within the textile and fashion industry. This two-day event, scheduled for 26-27 October at the Little Finlandia event center in Helsinki, will include a day of curated company visits.

Finland’s leading textile and fashion forum will showcase the industry's pioneering companies and their pursuit of a sustainable and resilient future. With insightful discussions, inspiring speakers, and thrilling business cases, the event drives transformation and sets new benchmarks for the textile and fashion sector.

The Textile & Fashion Forum Helsinki 2023 will focus on critical industry themes. The transformation of the textile and fashion industry relies on three key pillars: the creation of different circular business models matching growth with sustainability, a green and digital transition where information technology is necessary to deliver sustainability, and scaling the business, as how start-ups can make a leap and big companies can evolve their growth strategies. These three themes will be discussed in depth during the event.

The speaker lineup, drawn from Finland, Europe and beyond, demonstrates the expertise connecting on this platform. Noteworthy figures include Tiina Alahuhta-Kasko, President & CEO of Marimekko; Kai Mykkänen, Minister of Climate and the Environment of Finland; Marcus Hartmann, Head of Public Affairs & Sustainability at H&M; Liljana K. Forssten, Range Strategist at IKEA; and Virginijus Sinkevičius, European Commissioner (on video).

Die AZL Aachen GmbH, bekannter Innovationspartner für Industriekooperationen auf dem Gebiet der Leichtbautechnologieforschung, startet eines neuen Projekts mit dem Titel "Trends und Designfaktoren für Wasserstoffdruckbehälter". Das Projekt wird Fragestellungen der Industrie in Bezug auf die Wasserstoffspeicherung adressieren.

AZL Aachen GmbH, a recognized innovator in lightweight technologies research and industry collaboration, announces the initiation of a new project titled "Trends and Design Factors for Hydrogen Pressure Vessels". The project aims to address industry needs surrounding hydrogen storage.

Hydrogen has gained significant attention as a key technological solution for decarbonization, with high pressure storage and transportation emerging as vital components. Its applications extend from stationary storage solutions to mobile pressure vessels employed in sectors such as transportation and energy systems.

The AZL team, renowned for its high reputation in providing market and technology insights as well as developing component and production concepts in the format of Joint Partner Projects seeks for companies along the whole composite value chain interested in further developing their application know how in this economically highly relevant field.

The project will provide an in depth exploration of market insights, regulatory standards, and intellectual property landscapes. Beyond this, there is a dedicated focus on staying updated with state of the art and advancements in design, materials, and man ufacturing techniques.

An integral component of the project involves the creation of reference designs by AZL´s engineering team. The reference designs will encompass a variety of pressure vessel configurations and will consider a diverse range of materials and production concep ts.

With the scheduled project start in October 2023, and a project timeline of approximately nine months, AZL encourages companies active across the composite value chain to participate. Companies interested in participating or seeking further information should reach out directly to the AZL expert team.

• Sales increase by 4.7% to €283.7 million in Q1 2023
• Adjusted EBITDA improves by 9.0% to €40.1 million
• Growth based in particular on strong demand from the semiconductor industry

SGL Carbon generated Group sales of €283.7 million in Q1 2023 (Q1 2022: €270.9 million). This corresponds to an increase of €12.8 million or 4.7% compared to the same period of the previous year. Increased demand for specialty graphite components for the semiconductor industry from the Graphite Solutions business unit contributed in particular to the pleasing increase in sales. But also the Process Technology and Composite Solutions business units continued their positive business development.

Accordingly, adjusted EBITDA (EBITDApre) improved by 9.0% to €40.1 million in the reporting period (Q1 2022: €36.8 million).

Sales development
In the first three months of fiscal year 2023, the business unit Graphite Solutions was the main driver of SGL Carbon's growth with an increase in sales of €21.3 million or 17.8%. This is due in particular to the reallocation of production capacities from the solar industry market segment to the semiconductor industry. The Process Technology (+€6.6 million) and Composite Solutions (+€4.0 million) business units also contributed to the increase in sales.

The Carbon Fibers (CF) business unit recorded a decline in sales of €24.0 million in the reporting period. The decline is mainly due to the scheduled expiry of the attractive supply contract for the BMW i3 in the middle of last year. Freed-up production capacities were compensated by orders from the wind industry in the 2nd half of 2022. But the necessary construction of wind turbines in Europe is currently stalling. Low building permits and high manufacturing costs are temporarily hampering the construction and expansion of wind parks and therefore the necessary increase in renewable energy.

Earnings development
In line with the sales development combined with higher capacity utilization and positive product mix effects, adjusted EBITDA (EBITDApre) improved from €36.8 million to €40.1 million in Q1 2023, representing a quarter-on-quarter increase of 9.0%.

Taking into account depreciation and amortization of €14.3 million (Q1 2022: €14.1 million) as well as one-off effects and non-recurring items of minus €0.1 million, EBIT in the reporting period amounted to €25.7 million (Q1 2022: €31.2 million). It should be noted that Q1 of the previous year was positively impacted by one-off effects and and non-recurring items amounting to €8.5 million. Accordingly, net profit for the period of €15.3 million was lower than in the same quarter of the previous year (€21.5 million).

Debt, equity and capitel expenditure
Net financial debt increased slightly to €174.2 million as of March 31, 2023 (Dec. 31, 2022: €170.8 million). The leverage ratio remains unchanged at 1.0. Due to the positive consolidated net income, the equity ratio increased again slightly compared to the end of fiscal 2022 to 39.5% (Dec. 31, 2022: 38.5%).

Looking at the capital expenditure in Q1 2023, it amounted to €19.0 million, which is higher than the average values of the previous quarters. "At the beginning of 2023, we had already announced the expansion of our investment activities to expand production capacities in the Graphite Solutions business unit. In previous years, our capital expenditure was in line with depreciation and amortization. In addition to these approximately €60 million, we will invest further €20 to €30 million in 2023, which will be financed by advance payments in the context of long-term supply contracts from our customers in the semiconductor industry. Our semiconductor customers secure future production capacities for graphite components, which are needed for their own growth. In return, SGL Carbon's long-term supply contracts will enable future profitable growth," said Dr. Torsten Derr, CEO of SGL Carbon.

Outlook
In line with the business performance in the first three months of 2023, the company confirms the sales and earnings guidance issued on March 23, 2023.

For the financial year 2023, Group sales are expected to be at the prior-year level and  EBITDApre between €160 - 180 million. Taking into account depreciation and amortization, EBITpre is forecast to be between €100 - 120 million. Furthermore, free cash flow at the end of fiscal 2023 is expected to be at the prior-year level and return on capital employed (ROCE) between 10% and 12%.

The European Chemicals Agency invites interested parties to send in scientific and technical information on the manufacture, placing on the market and use of per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) by 25 September 2023.

The six-month consultation on the restriction proposal, prepared by the Danish, German, Dutch, Norwegian and Swedish authorities, opens on 22 March 2023 and closes on 25 September 2023 (23:59 Helsinki time).

The consultation is to give anyone with information on PFAS the opportunity to have their say. Of particular interest is information relevant to the risks, socio-economic aspects and alternative substances.

ECHA’s scientific committees for Risk Assessment (RAC) and for Socio-Economic Analysis (SEAC) will use the consultation input to evaluate the proposed restriction and form an opinion on it.

An online information session will be held on 5 April. During the session, experts from ECHA and the five national authorities will explain the restriction process, the content of the proposal and how to participate in the consultation. They will also respond to questions from the participants.

The five national authorities submitted the universal proposal to restrict PFAS to ECHA on 13 January. The European Commission, together with the EU Member States, will eventually decide on the potential restriction based on the proposal and the committees’ opinion.

• Sales of CHF 890.3 million in second half-year 2022
• EBIT margin of around 2% expected for full year 2022
• Order intake of CHF 1 157.3 million in 2022; order backlog of around CHF 1 540 million as of December 31, 2022
• Preparations for ITMA 2023 on schedule
• Implementation of action plan to increase sales and profitability ongoing
• Rieter site sales process on schedule

For Rieter, in addition to the geopolitical uncertainties, the 2022 financial year was characterized by three main challenges:
Due to the rapid rise in inflation, the exceptionally high order backlog of around CHF 1 840 million at the beginning of 2022 was processed at significantly higher costs. It was only possible to offset these higher costs in part by means of price increases and other remedial measures.

In order to safeguard deliveries, it was necessary to compensate for serious material bottlenecks, particularly in electronic components, which resulted in considerable additional development expenditure.

Major expenses were also incurred in connection with the acquired businesses (Accotex, Temco and Winder).

Sales
The realization of sales from the exceptionally high order backlog developed better than expected. With sales of CHF 1 510.9 million, Rieter achieved an increase of 56% compared with the previous year (2021: CHF 969.2 million). In the second half of 2022, especially in the fourth quarter, the measures introduced to address material bottlenecks had a positive impact. Consequently, sales increased to CHF 890.3 million compared with the first six months (first half-year 2022: CHF 620.6 million).

EBIT margin
The trend in the EBIT margin was strongly influenced by substantial cost increases, which could only be offset in part through price increases and other remedial measures. In addition, to compensate for material shortages, expenses were incurred in connection with the development of alternative solutions and the acquired businesses.

Rieter succeeded in improving profitability compared with the first half of 2022 due to the higher sales volume and offsetting measures to compensate for increased costs, and expects a positive EBIT margin of around 2% for the full year 2022 (2021: 4.9%).

Order intake
In line with expectations, the order intake of CHF 1 157.3 million in 2022 was below the record year of 2021 (CHF 2 225.7 million). The market situation is characterized by investment restraint due to geopolitical uncertainties, higher financing costs and consumer reticence in important markets.

Order backlog
The company had an order backlog of around CHF 1 540 million at the end of 2022, which thus extends well into 2023 and 2024. In 2022, Rieter recorded order cancellations of less than 10% of the order backlog of CHF 1 840 million at the beginning of the year.

Preparations for ITMA 2023 on schedule
Rieter has continued to boost its innovative capability and, in order to further extend its technology leadership, will present new innovative solutions at ITMA 2023 in Milan.

Action plan to increase sales and profitability
Implementation of the action plan to increase sales and profitability is ongoing. With regard to the profitability of the order backlog, which remains high, the implemented price increases in combination with a favorable trend in costs, particularly in logistics, are having an impact. In addition, progress was made in eliminating material bottlenecks and reducing expenses for the three acquired businesses.

Rieter site sales process
The sales process for the remaining land at the Rieter site in Winterthur (Switzerland) is proceeding according to plan. In total, around 75 000 m² of land will be sold. The Rieter CAMPUS is not part of this transaction.

Results press conference 2023
Rieter will provide further details on the 2022 financial year and an outlook for the 2023 financial year on March 9, 2023.

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, announces new dates for the 22nd edition of IDEA® – The World’s Preeminent Event for Nonwovens & Engineered Fabrics. Originally scheduled to take place April 23-25, 2024, IDEA® now will be held April 29-May 1, 2025, at the Miami Beach Convention Center in Miami Beach, FL.

In 2022, IDEA® attracted 5,000 participants from across the global supply chain to engage with nonwovens & engineered materials senior-level leaders at the Miami Beach Convention Center. IDEA® 2022 was co-located with the second FiltXPO™, an exhibition and conference dedicated exclusively to filtration and separation.

This year’s JEC forum DACH, taking place from November 29 to 30, 2022, is strategically located in a composites « golden triangle », between Munich, Augsburg and Ingelstadt. This dynamic area, at the heart of the Bavarian region is known to be hosting major companies such as Airbus, Faurecia, Kuka, Siemens, Voith Composites, KraussMaffei Technologies, Cevotec, Munich Composites, or Premium Aerotec, thus promising a two-days opportunity to meet with key decision makers.

The digital platform available to all participants prior to the event enables to schedule one to one business meetings between buyers and suppliers from the whole value chain of composites, as well as informal networking during breaks, lunches and evening event.

In total, 500 attendees, suppliers and buyers, from Germany, Austria and Switzerland, are expected to participate to JEC Forum DACH 2022.

Business meetings event*
DAY 1 – November 29, 2022:

• 10.15 – 11.45 am – “Keynote and Plenary Conference Session : Market Developments
• Moderator: Dr. Michael Effing, AVK
• 4.0 – 5.30 pm – “Keynote and Plenary Conference Session: Recycling of Composites

DAY 2 – November 30, 2022:

• 9.00– 10.30 am – “Keynote and Plenary Conference Session: Sustainability of Composites
• 3.15 – 4.45 pm – “Keynote and Plenary Conference Session: Innovations: Raw Materials, Processes and Applications

Celebrating composites innovation through awards and startup competition

• The AVK Innovation Awards: Goal is to promote and give prominence to new products/components and applications made from fiber-reinforced plastics (FRP) and promote new processes and methods for manufacturing FRP products.
• Startup Booster competition: The contest is open to entrepreneurs, SMEs, startups and academic spinoffs building innovative composite and advanced materials projects that are based in Germany, Austria or Switzerland (the DACH region).

*You can view the full program here.

Monforts is introducing a range of modular upgrades that can be added to existing finishing lines already in production.

The Monforts universal Energy Tower – a flexible, free-standing air/air heat exchanger for recovering the heat from the exhaust air flow of thermal processes – can result in a 30% reduction in the energy consumed by a line, depending on the exhaust air volume and operating temperature.

A Monforts Eco Booster, completely integrated into the chamber design of the Montex stenter, is another retrofitting option. As a single state-of-the-art heat recovery system with automatic cleaning, it can be added to existing ranges. For ranges of up to eight chambers only one module is necessary to achieve significant energy savings.

On an eight-chamber stenter with an operating width of two metres carrying out a fixing process on a 150gsm woven fabric, for example, the energy savings have been calculated to be 35% over an annual schedule of 6,000 operating hours.

In addition, the Eco Booster consumes only minimal amounts of water during the cleaning cycle and the entire process is controlled and monitored automatically.

The Matex Eco Applicator is an alternative to the conventional padding process for energy-conscious finishing and achieving considerable savings in the energy required for drying treated fabrics. The precise amount of chemical can be applied to the fabric and with less residual moisture after application of only approximately 35% so that less drying capacity is required in the stenter, which leads to huge energy savings.

Finishes can be evenly applied on either or both sides of the fabric, and two separate treatments can be applied to front and back. This makes the unit ideal for the production of, for example, double-performance hydrophobic/hydrophilic fabrics for professional clothing, as well as the over dyeing or finishing of denim fabrics.