From the Sector

• adidas and Yohji Yamamoto return to present their second Y-3 Atelier collection.

For its second collection, Y-3 Atelier introduces a suite of tailored pieces which blend adidas’ performance heritage with Yohji Yamamoto’s design vision. The collection takes original Yohji Yamamoto and Yohji Yamamoto POUR HOMME designs that are from the runway show and recreates them in fully seam sealed waterproof 3-layer GORE-TEX® material constructions, while maintaining the signature silhouette of the original designs. Featuring extended seams and flap pockets, the selection of monochromatic black vests, coats, parkas, blousons, jackets, and blazers comes replete with reflective logos.

Accompanying the launch of the collection is a series of still images captured by photographer Thue Nørgaard which convey the dynamism of each piece.

Members of TMAS – the Swedish textile machinery association – will display technologies in alignment with the theme of digitalisation at the forthcoming Techtextil and Texprocess 2024 exhibitions, taking place in Frankfurt from April 23-26th.

Automatic handling
The fully automated and digitised handling solutions for finished garments, home textiles and furniture of Eton Systems, for example, will be demonstrated at Texprocess.

Designed to increase value-added time in production by eliminating manual transportation and minimising handling, the individually addressable product carriers are fully managed and controlled by the latest ETONingenious™ software. This web based real-time data collection and information system continuously accumulates, processes and makes all production information instantly available to supervisors, quality control personnel and management.

Bespoke seams
Svegea will demonstrate its EC 300-XS colarette technology, which is used by garment manufacturers around the world for the production of tubular apparel components such as cuff and neck tapes and other seam reinforcements.

The EC 300-XS collarette cutter on show in Frankfurt is equipped with the latest E-Drive II system providing the operator with a very user-friendly touchscreen, providing full control of the cutting process. An accompanying FA 350 fully automatic roll slitting machine will also be demonstrated.

Digital finishing
At Techtextil meanwhile, Baldwin Technology Co. will provide full details of how its highly digitised TexCoat G4 non-contact spray technology for textile finishing and remoistening not only reduces water, chemicals and energy consumption, but also provides the flexibility to adapt to customer requirements in terms of single and double-sided finishing applications.

TexCoat G4 can reduce water consumption and chemical usage by as much as 50% compared to traditional padding application processes.

Yarn tension
Celebrating its 60th anniversary this year, Eltex will display the latest Eltex EyETM system for the continuous monitoring of yarn tension on warp beams.

The Eltex EyETM eliminates problems when warping, and also in subsequent weaving or tufting processes, monitoring the yarn tension on all positions in real-time and enabling a minimum and maximum allowable tension value it be set. If any yarn’s tension falls outside these values the operator can be warned or the machine stopped.

The Eltex ACT and ACT-R units meanwhile go beyond yarn tension monitoring to actually control yarn tension. This extends the application range greatly. The plug and play system automatically compensates for any differences in yarn tension that arise, for example from irregularities in yarn packages.

Accumulated know-how
Vandewiele Sweden AB benefits from all of the synergies and accumulated know-how of Vandewiele Group, supplying weft yarn feeding and tension control units for weaving looms to the majority of weaving machine manufacturers. It also retrofits its latest technologies to working mills to enable instant benefits in terms of productivity and control.

The company will present its latest X4 yarn feeders with integrated accessory displays (TED) as a new standard, as well as launching its own e-commerce platform – iroonline.com.

The TED function enables weft tension settings to be transferred from one machine to another, enabling a fast start-up the next time the same article is woven. The position of the S-Flex Tensioner is constantly monitored by an internal sensor – even if adjustment is made during power off.

X4 feeders are also available with integrated active tension control (ATC-W) as an option. With the ATC-W active tension control, the required tension is easily set and monitored on the integrated display. Once set, the system constantly regulates itself, ensuring consistent yarn tension during the weaving process which is constantly and accurately measured by the ATC sensor unit, sending a signal to the ATC operator unit resulting in consistently stable yarn tension at the required level.

Ahead of UEFA Euro 2024™, adidas unveils the latest series of technical performance kits for Belgium, Germany, Hungary, Italy, Scotland, Spain, and Wales.

Each of the jerseys are built to inspire a sense of pride and belonging, blending traditional elements with modern style to create something new for the next generation of players, including:

• Fresh application of national colours and exploration into new bolder hues – for example, the ‘Tricolore’ for Italy's home and away shirts, and a vibrant colour scheme for Germany’s away kit
• Recoding traditional patterns and applying them in fresh ways. This includes a modern interpretation of tartan in the Scotland shirt, and patterns reflecting the carnation - the national flower – which adorn the base of Spain’s home and away kits 
• Introducing fresh symbols to traditional federation wear, such as the Belgium away kit which celebrates the nation’s rich art and design culture, specifically cartoonist, Hergé, and the comic character he is famously known for; Tintin. Inspired by Tintin’s iconic outfit, a royal nod is found on the back of the collar with a golden crown that glimmers against a bright blue backdrop  
• Across the collection, a blend of dynamic shapes and colours express the jubilation and hope that fans and players share ahead of, and during, a major tournament

Each jersey includes either HEAT.RDY technology, optimized to keep players feeling comfortable, or AEROREADY technology, sweat-wicking or absorbent materials that keep players feeling dry. Lighter crests and additional mesh panels are also applied, helping improve airflow and comfort, to help players focus on the game at hand.

The adidas Euros kit collection will be available from from March 14, 2024.

The Directorship of Marchi & Fildi spa and Filidea srl announced the death of their President Massimo Marchi, in a tragic road accident on 11th March. His loss represents a moment of enormous sorrow for the Group and for the community to which Massimo Marchi contributed with such generosity and constructive spirit.

Massimo Marchi was an outstanding figure in the Italian and Biellese textile world.
Until his death, he was a member of the Council of Euratex, Vice President of SMI Sistema Moda Italia with responsibility for Research and Innovation, member of the Committee for Coordination and Management of Cluster Made In, and Councillor of the Association Tessile e Salute. His legacy will always be remembered and celebrated by those who had the privilege of knowing him and working with him.

Archroma has developed a new wet-fastness improver that helps brands and mills produce durable clothing, towels, linens and other textile products with long-lasting colors without compromising on quality or introducing hazardous chemicals.

ALBAFIX® ECO PLUS is a next-generation fixing agent that delivers a strong wet-fastness for all reactive dyes on cotton and other cellulosic fibers and polyester-cotton blends. It will not change the shade of the dyed fabric or negatively impact light-fastness. The product also avoids production challenges – such as foaming, acid hydrolysis and migration problems during drying – to promote efficiency and quality output.

ALBAFIX® ECO PLUS is suitable for jet applications, and for other dyeing and washing equipment with vigorous liquor circulation, and can also be applied by exhaustion, by padding or from the last bath of the soaping process after dyeing or printing.

Like ALBAFIX® ECO, the latest addition to the ALBAFIX® family has a positive influence on chlorine-fastness. When applied with double fixing, it achieves the same high performance on polyamide and PA/Elastane fabrics, as it does on cellulosic fibers. This makes it ideal for the production of swimwear, as well as sportswear and outdoor clothing.

ALBAFIX® ECO PLUS complies with global eco-standards and initiatives, including Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), bluesign® and the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) Roadmap.

Since March 1st 2024, the technical centre of Institut für Textiltechnik of RWTH Aachen University (ITA) has been equipped with an additional winder.

This globally unique winder has been manufactured by Comoli Fermo S.r.l, Paruzzaro, Italy, and enables the development of elastic yarns for numerous and innovative areas of application. Monofilament and multifilament yarns can be spun within a speed range of 100 to 3,200 m/min on bobbins with an industrial standard size of 73.6 mm x 83.8 mm x 115.5 mm.

The use of these bobbins enables immediate further processing along the textile process chain, for example in production of elastic combination yarns or knitting. Due to the high flexibility of this winder in combination with the available spinning plants at ITA, testing is possible with material amounts starting from a few hundred grams up to hundreds of kilograms.

SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD. of Wakayama, Japan, will together with its Brazilian representative BRASTEMA TECNOLOGIA TEXTIL LTDA. participate in the FIMEC 2024 47th International Fair of Leather, Chemicals, Components, Machines and Equipment for Footwear and Tanneries in Rio Grande do Sul, Brazil from 12th - 14th March 2024.

FIMEC offers the opportunity to reach out to the Brazilian shoe manufacturing industry with proposals for flat knitted fabrics as an alternative to conventional leather. Since participating in FIMEC over the years, SHIMA SEIKI has steadily expanded its market for shoe-upper knitting machines in Brazil. It will be showcasing its latest computerized flat knitting technology to demonstrate how they apply to footwear and other sportswear as well.

The company is showing its new SWG-XR® WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machine for the first time in Brazil. SWG-XR® features 4 needle beds and SHIMA SEIKI’s original SlideNeedle™, capable of producing high-quality fine gauge WHOLEGARMENT® products in all needles, and will be knitting WHOLEGARMENT® sportswear at FIMEC. For conventional shaped knitting, the compact SVR®093 machine with a short knitting width is specially developed for knitting shoe uppers, while the workhorse N.SSR®112 shaping machine features the latest garment knitting technology in an economical yet reliable package.
Both SVR®093 and N.SSR®112 will be knitting shoe uppers at FIMEC while utilizing the R2CARRIAGE®, WideGauge® knitting, spring-type moveable sinker, DSCS® Digital Stitch Control System, stitch presser, yarn gripper and cutter, and takedown comb. The classic SFG® seamless glove knitting machine will be knitting safety-oriented work gloves to round out SHIMA SEIKI’s multi-faceted display.

SHIMA SEIKI’s SDS®-ONE APEX4 3D design system will also be available for demonstrations in design
and simulation suited to shoe production.

Texhibition Istanbul Fabric and Textile Accessories Fair, organised by İTKİB Fuarcılık A.Ş. in cooperation with the Istanbul Textile Exporters Association (İTHİB), is ready for its fifth edition. From 6 to 8 March 2024, 558 exhibitors will present themselves to the 30,000 expected visitors from over 100 countries, including the European Union, Great Britain, the USA, North Africa and the Middle East. With this edition, Texhibition has more than doubled the space compared to the last event to 35,000 square metres.

The fifth edition of Texhibition Istanbul offers a comprehensive overview of all product groups in the textile prepress sector: from woven fabrics to knitwear, from denim to artificial leather and textile accessories

Due to popular demand, the fair has been expanded to five halls, including the new Yarn Hall (Hall 8) with exhibitors such as Sasa, Aksa, Karafiber, Kortex, Tepar, Ensar, Kaplanlar and Iskur and the BlueBlack Denim Hall (Hall 7), which showcases the latest denim trends and presents a wide range from blue shades to black denims with exhibitors such as İsko, Çalık Bossa, Kipas and İskur. BlueBlack Denim is designed by the  designer Idil Tarzi in cooperation with the creative directors Gönül Altunisik and Selvi Yigci.

Curated by Idil Tarzi and her creative team, the Texhibition Trend Area in Halls 4 and 5 presents the latest colour trends, materials and accessories.

Under the direction of designers Arzu Kaprol and Filiz Tunca, the Innovation Hub showcases technological innovations that add value to textile production: from fibre to yarn, from fabrics to clothing.

Digital art installations in the entrance area, which run through the entire trade fair, as well as piano performances in the foyer await visitors at the upcoming Texhibition.

Seminars and workshops with industry experts shed light on current topics in the industry, including innovations, production processes and design developments. These opportunities offer participants a platform to exchange knowledge and discuss the latest developments in the textile industry.

Re:NewCell AB announced that the Stockholm District Court has decided to approve the previously communicated bankruptcy application and has declared the company bankrupt.

The appointed bankruptcy trustee is lawyer Lars-Henrik Andersson at Cirio Advokatbyrå.

February,25 the Board of Directors had decided to file for bankruptcy of Re:NewCell AB at the Stockholm District Court. The reason for the decision to file for bankruptcy was that Re:NewCell has not been able to secure sufficient financing to complete the strategic review, announced on 20 November 2023, with satisfactory result.

As part of the strategic review, Re:NewCell has had well advanced negotiations with its two largest shareholders, H&M and Girindus, its existing lenders BNP Paribas, European Investment Bank, Finnvera (as partial guarantor), Nordea, AB Svensk Exportkredit and potential new investors as well as other stakeholders regarding long-term financing solutions. These discussions have not resulted in a solution which would provide Re:NewCell with the necessary liquidity and capital to ensure its operations going forward.

"I regret to inform that we have been forced to take this decision to file for bankruptcy. As we have a strong belief in the company’s long-term potential, we have together with our advisors spent very substantial time and efforts into trying to secure the necessary liquidity, capital and ownership structure for the company to secure its future. As part of the negotiations, we have had intense dialogues with both current main owners, new investors and our banks, as well as other stakeholders. However, these discussions have not been successful. This is a sad day for the environment, our employees, our shareholders, and our other stakeholders, and it is a testament to the lack of leadership and necessary pace of change in the fashion industry” says Chairman of the Board of Directors, Michael Berg.

Highlights Q4 2023 (compared with Q4 2022)

• Revenue in constant currencies up 4% on higher volumes and pricing (reported revenue -3%)
• Operating income improved to €214 million (2022: €103 million)
• Adjusted operating income at €221 million (2022: €126 million); ROS at 8.7% (2022: 4.8%); €244 million before €23 million negative impact from hyperinflation accounting
• Net cash from operating activities positive €574 million (2022: €291 million)

Highlights full-year 2023 (compared with full-year 2022)

• Revenue in constant currencies up 5% driven by pricing (reported revenue -2%)
• Operating income improved to €1,029 million (2022: €708 million)
• Adjusted operating income at €1,074 million (2022: €789 million), despite €77 million adverse
• currency effects from translation; ROS at 10.1% (2022: 7.3%)
• Adjusted EBITDA at €1,429 million (2022: €1,157 million), despite €92 million adverse currency
• effects from translation
• Net cash from operating activities positive €1,126 million (2022: €263 million)
• Net debt to EBITDA leverage ratio improved to 2.7 (2022: 3.8)
• Final dividend proposed of €1.54 per share (2022: €1.54)

Outlook mid-term
For the mid-term, AkzoNobel aims to expand profitability to deliver an adjusted EBITDA margin of above 16% and a return on investment between 16% and 19%, underpinned by organic growth and industrial excellence. The company aims to lower its leverage to around 2 times in the mid-term, while remaining committed to retaining a strong investment grade credit rating.