From the Sector

Building a strong future. B.I.G. Yarns reveals significant investment in its next-generation Polyamide (PA) technology to help global carpet tile manufacturers meet the demands of the contract market. In addition to this key investment, the company also announces its decision to become a new producer of polyester (PET) yarns for the automotive industry.

The two announcements reinforce the business’ leadership in yarn innovation and commitment to being at the forefront of supporting changing end-market needs.

B.I.G Yarns is stepping up its focus on developing and producing one-step 3Ply PA yarns using next-generation technology to answer needs for flexibility and broader design options in the carpet tile segment. Total production capacity for one-step 3Ply yarns will increase by > 20% through new lines installed at the plant in France, creating higher output and greater supply security by serving customers from all three of its global plants.

The new lines use B.I.G. Yarns’ cutting-edge PA yarn technology which expands design, contrast and colour freedoms for carpet tile manufacturers, and increases flexibility in lot sizes. These advances enable customers to respond quickly to developments in the contract market. In addition, the new technology features a higher level of automation which improves ergonomics for B.I.G. Yarns’ employees. Importantly, it also optimizes energy use which contributes in energy savings at the French site specifically. The new production lines will be deployed from mid-2022.

To enhance support for a future of more sustainable automotive interiors, B.I.G. Yarns will enter into PET yarn production for the first time and offer a portfolio of PET yarns by the third quarter of 2022. These will be available for automotive applications alongside its EqoCycle® recycled-based PA6 yarns.

Kai-Chieh Kuo, PhD student at the Institut für Textiltechnik (ITA) of RWTH Aachen University, was awarded the German Textile Mechanical Engineering 2021 Best Master's Thesis Award for his master's thesis entitled "Modification of the tube weaving process of fine yarns for the production of woven ultra-low profile stent grafts". The prize is endowed with 3,500€. Peter D. Dornier, Chairman of the Board of the Walter Reiners-Stiftung (Foundation), virtually presented the award on the occasion of the ADD International Textile Conference on 9 November 2021.

Minimally invasive endovascular aortic repair (EVAR) with textile stent-graft systems is nowadays a clinically established therapy procedure for the treatment of abdominal aortic aneurysms (AAA) – pathological bulges of the aorta. Due to the thick profile of the folded stent graft systems, there is currently a high risk of injuring narrowed or highly angulated access vessels from the inside during implantation. Stent graft systems with smaller profiles could provide an improvement, which could overcome complicated access routes through a lower bending stiffness. One possible approach for reducing the system profiles is the use of thin-walled tubular woven fabrics made of ultrafine multifilament yarns (≤20 dtex) as graft material.

Up to now, it has not been possible to process the fine yarns with the required high thread density (>200 threads/cm) and the available weaving technology in order to guarantee sufficient tightness against blood.

In his master's thesis, Kai-Chieh Kuo made high-density tubular weaving of ultra-fine filament yarns possible for the first time by means of suitable modifications to a shuttle loom as well as adaptations in the weaving preparation. In particular, he developed a new innovative reed technology that reduces warp thread friction during the shedding process and thus improves the process stability of the dense tube weaving process of fine yarns.

With the help of the process modification, it was then possible to produce high-density, thin-walled tubular woven fabrics, which were positively evaluated with regard to their suitability for a stent graft. Above all the potential of these tubular fabrics lies in their extremely thin-walled fabric profile, which seals well against blood. By using these new types of tubular fabrics as graft material for stent grafts, the system profile of the folded stent graft system can be reduced without having to compromise the blood tightness of the implant. The technology developed by Mr Kuo is not only applicable to stent graft systems, but also offers great possibilities for use in all other endovascular implants such as trans catheter heart valves, covered stents and small-lumen vascular prostheses.

ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei, specialized in sustainable premium stretch fibers, and Bemberg™, a fiber made from the smart-tech transformation of cotton linters pre-consumer materials and converted through a traceable and transparent closed loop process, have been invited to showcase at Filo, the international fair of orthogonal weaving yarns for clothing and furnishings, circular knitwear and technical textiles from the 29-30th of September.

ROICA™ will show its main innovations and four key pieces of the modern and sustainable contemporary wardrobe able to enhance the versatility of the fibers, applied to fashion, sportswear, legwear and underwear.
The brand will also be the protagonist of “The contemporary consumer: Stretch your imagination with ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei smart innovation” speech on September 30th, 11am, organized by the fair to tell its sustainable story.

Bemberg™ will be at Filo showing some selected fabric innovation, and three responsible-driven designers representing different and complementary part of contemporary consumer wardrobe: ZEROBARRACENTO, Maurizio Miri and WAXEWUL.
Bemberg™ will be also involved in two speeches – entitled “Il viaggio di Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei verso una moda contemporanea, premium e responsabile” - organized by the fair (Sept. 29th and 30th at 4pm), where it will share its story made of creation, production and process, as well as product performance, aspects related to sustainability and circular economy approach.

• FM Global ‘Highly Protected Risk’ Achievement Award for Komen site, Belgium
• Completes HPR Award status for B.I.G. YARNS’ European production facilities
• Fifth plant in Beaulieu International Group to attain HPR Award

B.I.G. YARNS is proud to announce the attainment of a FM Global ‘Highly Protected Risk’ Achievement Award (HPR Award) for its yarn production facility in Komen, Belgium.

The HPR Award is assigned by insurer FM Global, Beaulieu International Group’s insurance partner of the past five years in its on-going dedication to property loss prevention. A worldwide team of engineers focuses on providing assistance and protection of B.I.G.’s assets, helping the Group to achieve a higher level of risk protection. The FM Global assessment considers implementation of measures to protect against fire, natural hazard, mechanical breakdown of machinery and also cyber risks. The local team worked diligently over the last five years to implement all the FM Global recommendations.

Emmanuel Colchen, General Manager B.I.G. YARNS, comments: “Achieving the prestigious HPR Award recognizes the commitment of the teams at B.I.G. YARNS and the wider Beaulieu International Group to proactive risk management and contingency planning to ensure the safety and protection of our workplaces. Safeguarding property is a key element in enabling us to provide business continuity for our customers in demanding sectors like automotive, commercial contract and residential flooring.”

B.I.G. YARNS’ Komen production facility is the fifth plant at B.I.G. to receive HPR status - the highest level a plant can achieve for fire risk prevention and protection.

The Yarns division of Beaulieu International Group achieved HPR status for its other European site in Comines, France, in 2017.

There has been a sharp rise in demand for organic cotton products. Compared to conventionally grown cotton, the cultivation of organic cotton requires the renunciation of genetically modified seeds, chemical pesticides or fertilisers. Nevertheless, genetic modifications are repeatedly found in textiles that are falsely labelled with organic claims. Often, available certification systems are not backed up by lab testing. At best, they only take random seed samples. Textile testing specialist, Hohenstein, has developed an assessment method specifically for cotton. This new DNA analysis method makes it possible to ascertain the amount of genetically modified cotton contained in products. This is good news for textile industry stakeholders who will be on the safe side in terms of quality control and labelling of organic cotton products.

First step: qualitative screening and identification. Second step: quantification of genetically modified cotton.
For qualitative screening, Hohenstein experts had developed molecular biological detection systems to make clear yes/no statements about genetically modified cotton. Testing can be applied to all kinds of materials, from raw cotton to chemically untreated yarns and fabrics. In addition, Hohenstein is one of only a few laboratories in the world accredited to test for GMOs in accordance with the ISO/IWA 32:2019 protocol. Its method provides reliable evidence of the presence or exclusion of genetic modification in cotton textile precursors.

Once qualitative proof of genetic modification is obtained, Hohenstein experts begin quantifying the type and extent of the genetic modifications. To do this, they use DNA analysis to search for different cotton lines known to contain genetic alterations and quantify the proportion. Only by pinpointing individual genetic modifications and quantifying the extent of modification is it possible to provide precise information on whether there is an extremely small proportion of contamination, or whether larger proportions of GMOs have been mixed in. This offers clear benefits to manufacturers, brand owners and retailers when it comes to supply chain transparency and fraud prevention.

Iluna Group comes back to Milano Unica with a great and important goal: to relaunch the qualities and dimensions of sustainability by going beyond the ingredient.

Iluna’s new path, which was born in a moment when the market seems to speak about “fragility”, begins with the investment in the renewal of machines, which allow it to fly ever higher in terms of high-tech developments, quality, definition, effects of yarns and patterns. The journey into the new dimension of responsible quality continues with ad hoc developments in the field of GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certified recycled yarns, aimed at unprecedented effects both in look, in performance and in the hands of fabrics. Including cord yarn, shiny threads and an expansion of the range of GRS yarns, previously available only opaque. The cord yarn is a precious yarn with a ROICA™ EF premium stretch yarn core, GRS certified and developed with 50% of pre-consumer waste materials content - double, covered with an equally recycled shiny thread; the bright and translucent is instead to add brilliant effects so far not possible with a GRS yarn.

The printing processes are also born from this constant search for innovation towards new materials and new techniques, becoming more and more sustainable: Global Recycle Standard (GRS)-certified sublimation printing and register printing carrying Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) certification. This one overlap exactly on the design and color the details, reaching where the dye cannot reach.

Diversification has become essential in today’s competitive market and the fragility of the moments experienced in 2020 was the stimulus to return to being here again, to return to action. Flexibility is the watchword today, along with research. And Iluna has managed to go further: starting from the ingredients at the base of the materials, last year launched a collection with natural dyes made with GOTS certified plant-based dyes, up to proposing magnificent prints with extraordinary effects for this edition of the Milanese fair.

The three dimensions of sustainability, design and innovation are thus finally linked thanks to valuable partnerships with expert and excellent reference companies that have allowed these new developments and these unique results thanks to advanced technologies designed specifically for Iluna, which is today the only company to offer ingredients, natural colors and prints, all three strictly certified.