From the Sector

• Astrifa GmbH relies on CREATE PLUS for the production of its knitted traditional clothing

Astrifa GmbH was founded in 1948 in Lower Bavaria, moved to its current location in 1953 and began specializing in traditional costume clothing in 1978. The company has around 70 employees and produces around 700 items for men, women and children every week. The finest merino wool from England is processed and the machinery consists exclusively of STOLL machines, in total 17 flat knitting machines, including the latest representatives of the ADF and CMS series. Astrifa also relies on pioneering solutions when it comes to programming the machines: CREATE PLUS is used alongside other patterning systems.

The CREATE PLUS software combines a full-featured, advanced programming system with an easy-to-learn user interface, revolutionizing the programming of STOLL flat knitting machines. This has also aroused great interest at ITMA 2023. New versions are released every four months; in addition to many detailed improvements, the current release contains a greatly expanded system for multi-part knitting compared to the previous software and an extensive option for creating reports and statistics.

Biella Yarn’s new Fall/Winter 24/25 collection presents two collaborations. Both collaborations start with one common inspiration: with the clash of different cultures and the distant exotic markets. Rug making, fur-crafts and artisan hand work inspire patterns and textures which are translated into knitted fabrications and 3D designs.

MRC Knitwear Research Lab created these textures and patterns by using a small selection of very classic yarns and working them in special techniques to create rich textural fabrications. Each garment focuses on a special technique and combination of yarns and colours and show how versatile a single yarn can be.

The garments were knitted mainly with Victoria Nm 2/30 (100% Merino wool extrafine, 19.5 μ, anti-shrinkage). Victoria Nm 2/30 was used in an array of different techniques and on different gauges - from 14gg ribs, that have a beautiful drape to more tactile fabrics such as 3-dimensional stitches on 12gg and heavily patterned inlay jacquards on the 14gg Shima Seiki SRY. Within these inlay jacquard’s BaltoroPro Nm 2/28 (70% Merino wool extrafine, 19.5 μ, anti-shrinkage 30% Polyester GRS High Bulk) was selected as an inlay yarn - a special wool blend which helps create bulky 3-dimensional fabrications that remain lightweight. The classic Brisbane Nm 2/60 (100% Merino wool Superfine, 17.5 μ, anti-shrinkage) and new boucle yarn Fluffy Nm 14 000 (81% Merino wool extrafine, 19.5 μ, anti-shrinkage, 19% Polyamide) were worked together in fine plush jacquards to give an effect of shaved patchwork furs.

The structures and patterns were transitioned into the world of 3D designs by Shima Seiki Italia. The design software APEXFiz®, developed by Shima Seiki, not only allows for shaping but also converts them into knitted patterns. By replacing physical samples, virtual samples reduce time costs, and materials that would otherwise be wasted. Yarnbank®, Shima Seiki's platform for yarn and spinning research, has been the primary source of Suedwolle Group's digitized yarns used in the 3D models.

Textile performance inspired by nature - Swiss textile manufacturer Schoeller Textil AG launches the sustainable textile collection RE-SOURCE as part of its brand sustainability strategy. All textile innovations in the collection are made from bio-based, post- as well as pre-consumer materials such as recycled polyester and spandex. These are further enhanced with Schoeller textile technologies to provide the wearer with breathability, thermal regulation and wind and water repellency.

Two textile innovations in the collection have been lined on the inside with natural NATIVA Merino wool, produced under the highest sustainability standards. The manufacturing process of NATIVA Merino wool is 100% transparent and traceable for consumers through blockchain technology. NATIVA farms worldwide meet strict social and environmental requirements for animal welfare (ban on mulesing), land management and ethical labour guidelines.

Schoeller is committed to the CODE OF CONDUCT, which guarantees transparent production chains, environmental protection and fair working conditions. All RE-SOURCE textile innovations are bluesign approved - the international standard for responsible and sustainable textile manufacturing.

"The special Q-cycle process was used for RE-SOURCE. The resistant and durable Q-cycle polyamide is obtained by pyrolysis of used tyres and thus saves Co2 emissions compared to the combustion process. In this way, we are helping to protect the climate with Q-cycle," says Hans Kohn, COO, Schoeller Technologies AG.

The new recycled textile collection will be presented at the PERFORMANCE DAYS textile trade fair in Munich from 15-16 March 2023.

Inspired by this innate desire to experience nature and a shared vision, adidas TERREX has teamed up with fashion-forward Japanese outdoor label and wander on a collection that will take hikers from city centre to mountain top (and back again) in style.

Since its inception, adidas TERREX has focused on providing people with the clothing and apparel they need to realize their individual goals in the outdoors and enjoy the benefits of nature.

Tokyo designers Keita Ikeuchi and Mihoko Mori, meanwhile, launched their own outdoor label and wander in 2011 to bring more creativity to outdoors wear. By pairing high-fashion design with the practical requirements needed for adventure, theirs is a modern approach to apparel that works both in the wild, and on the streets.  

Together, adidas TERREX and and wander have collaborated on a multi-seasonal collection that ties these philosophies together to help people enjoy more outdoors experiences.

With a striking visual update, the lightweight TERREX Free Hiker 2 offers grip on a range of surfaces, and a responsive BOOST midsole that delivers incredible energy return. With a breathable upper and a sock-like fit that adapts to every step, this supportive shoe made in part with Parley Ocean Plastic is ready for adventure, anywhere.

With the TERREX Free Hiker 2 taking care of the feet, the TERREX XPLORIC and wander COLD.RDY Down Jacket is a functional essential with eye-catching design. COLD.RDY insulating material help keep the warmth in, while prominent TERREX x and wander reflective prints on the jacket and detachable hood help it stand out. With an array of pockets and adjustable features for the right fit, this versatile jacket’s natural habitat is everywhere. It’s also made in part with recycled materials.

adidas TERREX x and wander graphics and reflective detailing have been worked into the rest of an adventure-ready outdoor clothing collection that also includes a TERREX Fleece Jacket, loose-fit unisex TERREX Graphics Hoody and TERREX Pants.

Also available in the adidas TERREX x and wander collection are breathable Merino Wool Hiking Socks made with COLD.RDY technology for snug hiking , a quilted Winterized Bucket Hat, and a lightweight AERO.RDY Hiking Backpack that is loaded with features to look after outdoor essentials.

• The “new normal” by Südwolle: responsible, seasonless and high performance

The concept of seasonality in the F/W 2023/24 collection is increasingly vague, in favour of more functional categories in terms of performance, sustainability, innovative content and style.

Yarns are predominantly pure wool or blends, corresponding with the new concept of “dressing well” which is gaining ground among consumers – an individual style that promotes wellbeing at various times of the day, a fluid, personal idea of elegance, that fits daily activities with ease.

The new formal replaces the traditional suit with “smart casual” jackets and trousers -comfortable, and carefully cut, they feature quality materials that guarantee wearability as well as durability. Focus on these factors makes for more informed and less impulse buying.

The renewed interest in heritage is met with Südwolle's wool know-how and its basic essentials, updated to make them more sustainable by choosing certified fibres and chlorine-free anti-shrink treatments, for products with a longer lifespan thanks to domestic washing at low temperatures.

Sustainable innovation attentive to performance and durability goes hand in hand with the selection of earth-friendly recycled, recyclable and traceable materials blended with natural fibres.

Overview of the collection
The words inspiring the new collection are: sustainable, responsible, natural, recycled and high-performance.

A leading position goes to the OTW® line of weaving yarns made with Omega Twist® technology, developed and patented by Südwolle Group, which gives yarns enhanced performances in terms of reduced pilling, greater elasticity, strength and durability.

Espresso TEX Nm 48/2 (100% untreated wool,20.5μ) was created to value the authentic naturalness of wool. Made with undyed, untreated merino wool, it is a twisted yarn for weaving, ideal, for example, for flannel suits and jacket. It is available in 4 shades of brown obtained by mixing different percentages of untreated raw wool and undyed, naturally brown wool.
Eolo Nm 24/2 (100% wool 20.5 µ) is an example of circular production and reuse of recycled wool within the Karma project. Starting with in-house pre-and post-production waste, a partly carded, partly combed, product is created at Südwolle Group facilities where this type of process can be carried out.

Rhein GOTSNm 64/1 and Nm 64/2 (100% wool 19.5 µ) is the new pure woolyarn with GOTS –Global Organic Textile Standard certification, which certifies its organic provenance. The same traceable origin applies to Lerici GOTS X-COMPACT®Nm 60/1 (70% GOTS certified wool 19.5μ, 30% Schappe Mulberry silk), a glossy yarn with reduced pilling effect for improved anti-abrasion performance, obtained with X-COMPACT® spinning technology.

Performance paired with reduced energy consumption is the added value of SRP ClarkNm 60/2 (48% wool 23.5μ, 44% cationic polyester, 8% Donegal viscose), also available in a stretch version. The cationic polyester can be dyed blended with the wool, making double dying unnecessary and so saving on water and energy consumption. The addition of pre-dyed red, green or brown Donegal viscose to the blend creates a fluid look enhanced with slubbing and micro-nep effect.

Rosvic Nm 40/2 (98% wool 19.5μ, 2% Lycra®44 dtex) is a twisted yarn with Basolan treatment for comfort fabrics. It has a slightly textured surface with a contrasting or tone on tone micro mouliné pattern.

Key players among the circular knitting and hosiery yarns are Basak Nm 80/1(80% wool TEC. 20% polyamide 2.2 dtex), OTW® Barone GRS Nm 60/2(60% wool 23.5 µ TEC, 40% RENU™ recycled cationic polyester 2.2 dtex) and OTW®Concorde Nm 88/2(100% wool 19.3 µ TEC), available in the new colour cards.

• Performance Days - November 28 and 29, 2018 – Hall C1 Booth B18
• Two of TINTEX’s fabrics have made it into the PERFORMANCE FORUM Jury’s Pick Category that represents fabrics which are a valuable contribution to this season Performance Days Focus Topic “WATER – OUR RESPONSIBILITY”

See, touch and experience the latest collection from TINTEX as they reveal a wonderful range of innovative fabrics that redefine fashion, inspire creativity, spark emotion and optimize responsible solutions. TINTEX, being an ingenious leader in textile and research innovation for over twenty years, transforms a new generation of cotton and other natural based materials. Established in the Porto region as authorities in superior dyeing and finishing techniques making TINTEX Textiles the perfect choice for fashion.

All the recent awards bestowed, demonstrate TINTEX continue research and commitment. They have been awarded for the Best product of the Base Layer Category by ISPO jury, moreover they have just received the prestigious German Design Awards 2019 and last but not least, they are selected as finalists for the Future Textile Awards in the category Best Innovation for Sustainable Textiles.
TINTEX continues to lead the way, as they proudly take part in the Make Fashion Circular initiative, by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation and activate change industry wide. This initiative aims to collaborate and innovate towards a new textile economy based on the principles of a Circular Economy.

In addition, since this November, TINTEX is a bluesign® system partner, thus means that they are responsibly acting parties of the textile value chain committed to applying the bluesign® system, continuously improving their environmental performance and always been focused on a sustainable future.

A milestone for TINTEX and fashion, as they launch Naturally Clean - an exceptional smart finishing process that is uniquely responsible. Naturally Clean enhances the natural beauty of cotton, takes a cost effective modern approach to eliminate aggressive treatments and optimizes clean surfaces, vivid colors, providing an exquisitely smooth handfeel. Naturally Clean achieves this by using Novozymes technology, a company that is indeed the world leader in biological solutions. Second, using textile chemicals with the lowest possible environmental impact, without compromising performance, from Beyond Surface Technologies AG. Naturally Clean maintains the original characteristics for an extended period of time. All materials are Oeko-Tex and soon bluesign® certified, thus eliminating harmful substances.
TINTEX’ Autumn/Winter 2019/2020 collection includes vibrant tones, refreshing turquoise and electric green, light and warm copper with chocolate browns that connect the natural and spiritual in an extra-sensorial universe. Infused with a stunning palette of nostalgic and multicultural colors - warm yellow with darkened reds, dynamic purple with urban greys - that express globalization and human connection.
Key smart ingredients of the season are:

• A New Generation of Cotton: GOTS certified organic cotton, Supima® cotton, and ECOTEC® by Marchi & Fildi the smart cotton that saves up to 77.9% water consumption and introduces the concept of a circular economy.
• SeaCell™ and Smartcel™: produced using the Lyocell process in a closed loop with no chemicals released as waste. The patented process of SeaCell™ allows that the positive properties of the seaweed are permanently preserved within the fiber, even after multiple washing cycles. Smartcel™ includes the essential trace element zinc providing anti-inflammatory capabilities.
• REFIBRA™ by Lenzing technology involves upcycling a substantial proportion of cotton scraps e.g. from garment production, in addition to wood pulp, where the raw material is transformed to produce new TENCEL™ Lyocell fiber to make fabrics and garments.
• Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei: A new generation GRS Certified material, made from cotton linters, with a biodegradability certification by Innovhub. A matchless, high tech natural material, with a special handfeel and aesthetics.
• ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei
  - ROICA™ EF has a percentage of pre-consumer recycled content that is more than 50%, and thanks to this it has been GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certified.
  - ROICA™ V550 a premium stretch innovative yarn boasting the Cradle to Cradle Certified™ Gold Level for Material Health product and ingredients as it was evaluated throughout the supply chain for lower impacts on human and environmental health. Striving toward eliminating all toxic and unidentified chemicals for a safe continuous cycle. Hohenstein Environment Compatibility Certificate - ROICA™ proudly breaks down without releasing harmful substances.

Of special interest this season, the two TINTEX’s fabrics that made it into the PERFORMANCE FORUM Jury’s Pick Category for their contribution to this season Topic “WATER – OUR RESPONSIBILITY”.

A smart rib developed to reduce the water usage as most as possible, from cultivation of raw materials until fabric finishing. A blend of TENCEL™ Modal, cellulosic & biodegradable material treated with no hazardous chemicals, pesticides nor fertilizers, and European hemp, a fast-growing plant that requires very little water and no herbicides, pesticides, synthetic fertilizers or GMO seeds. Both fibres are biodegradable.

The second selected article is a 100% Merino Wool jersey made unique thanks to Colorau® by TINTEX, a patented natural dyeing process technique that uses vegetable herbs and extracts. A great amount of water was saved by avoiding subsequent washing steps. Also, lower water pollution is achieved by avoiding synthetic dyestuffs.

Buyers looking for premium wool fabrics will be spoilt for choice at next month’s Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics. The epicentre for those with this product on their sourcing checklist is the Premium Wool Zone, with mills from the UK, Italy, France, Peru and elsewhere located here, while the Italy Pavilion also includes a number of quality wool suppliers. Rounding out the sourcing options, and adding further quality and price variety, are the 180-plus domestic wool suppliers in hall 6.1.

Some of the notable overseas brands participating this edition include Abraham Moon & Sons, Aris Industrial, Dechamps, Dormeuil, Dugdale Bros & Co, Ferla, Fratelli Piacenza, Holland & Sherry, Huddersfield Fine Worsteds, Lanificio F.lli Cerruti DAL 1881 and Scabal. The Spring Edition of the industry’s most comprehensive sourcing platform for the spring / summer season, Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics, will feature some 3,300 exhibitors from around 20 countries covering all apparel fabrics and accessories product groups.

Growing affluence in China drives demand for premium wool fabrics

While a true global marketplace for the industry’s order writers with buyers from around 100 countries expected at Intertextile Shanghai next month, much of the demand for high-end wool at the fair comes from Chinese buyers thanks to growing affluence in the country. This is evidenced by the fact that Australian wool prices are at record highs this season, with China accounting for over 70% of Australian wool exports[1]. What’s more, whereas 15 to 20 years ago most wool imported by China was re-exported, nowadays around 60% is used to produce garments for the domestic market.

Intertextile’s number one position in China ensures that high-end domestic buyers are in abundance. “The buyer professionalism here is surprisingly high,” Mr Bob McAuley, Huddersfield Fine Worsteds’ President, explained last October. “We’re looking specifically for tailors and menswear specialty stores, and these type of buyers are definitely present.” Speaking about domestic market trends, he continued: “Retailers are not able to put all fashion in stores, so the made-tomeasure market is growing, especially in China. I’m surprised each edition how many new high-end Chinese brands we meet at this fair. There’s more menswear specialty stores opening here, whereas in the US, for example, the move is more towards going direct-to-consumer and online.”

Innovation and new-season styles added to heritage brands’ collections  

Precious metals such as gold and silver are known to have been worked into garments as long as 3,000 years ago, when they were hammered into extremely thin sheets then cut into ribbons. Modern technology has made this process much more straightforward, as well as opening up new opportunities. One of these is combining wool and silver, which Holland & Sherry will exhibit at Intertextile Shanghai. Their Argento collection of Super 200's wool fabrics applies a state of the art silver ion technology finish to superfine 13.5µ merino wool. This combination provides effective antibacterial protection, counteracting bacterial odour formation and keeping the fabrics hygienic and fresh. And because the conductive properties of silver prevent the build-up of static charge, the fabrics also benefit from anti-static properties.

While most collections in the Premium Wool Zone emphasise the brands’ heritage and tradition, like Holland & Sherry, some will be introducing new or updated collections. Dugdale Bros & Co refreshed its Royal Classic superfine Australian merino wool collection last year for the first time since 1987, adding around 30 patterns drawn directly from its original archive. Abraham Moon & Sons will showcase new fabrics at the fair for spring / summer ‘19 designed by Creative Director Martin Aveyard, which take in categories of classic, casual and contemporary, with a unique use of worsted, linen and cashmere combinations.

In addition to Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics, four other textile fairs also take place at the National Exhibition and Convention Center: Yarn Expo Spring, Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles – Spring Edition, fashion garment fair CHIC and knitting fair PH Value.