From the Sector

• Textile Exchange report shows growth of preferred fiber and materials market needs to be accelerated
• With post-pandemic fiber production increasing, the transition to preferred fibers and materials must be a non-negotiable decision, notes Textile Exchange.

According to a new Textile Exchange report, the market share for preferred fiber and materials grew significantly in 2020. The Preferred Fiber and Materials Market Report 2021 outlines the market for plant fibers such as cotton, hemp, and linen; animal fibers and materials such as wool, mohair, cashmere, alpaca, down, silk, and leather; manmade cellulosics (MMCFs) such as viscose, lyocell, modal, acetate, and cupro; as well as synthetics such as polyester, polyamide, and more.

The report is a unique annual publication about global fiber and materials production, availability, and trends, including those associated with improved social and environmental impacts, referred to as ”preferred.” The comprehensive report includes quantitative data, industry updates, trend analysis and inspiring insights into the work of leading companies and organizations as they create material change.

The results show that between 2019 and 2020 the market share of preferred cotton increased from 24 to 30 percent and recycled polyester from 13.7 to 14.7 percent. Preferred cashmere increased from 0.8 to 7 percent of all cashmere produced while Responsible Mohair Standard certified fiber expanded from 0 to 27 percent of all mohair produced worldwide in its first year of existence in 2020. The market share of FSC and/or PEFC certified MMCFs increased to approximately 55-60 percent. While the market share of recycled MMCFs is only 0.4 percent, it is expected to increase significantly in the following years.

Brands’ increased interest in the use of preferred fibers and materials was also demonstrated by 75 percent increase in the total number of facilities (to 30,000) around the world becoming certified to the organization’s portfolio of standards in 2020. However, the report also notes that despite the increase, preferred fibers only represent less than one-fifth of the global fiber market. Less than 0.5 percent of the global fiber market was from pre- and post-consumer recycled textiles.

Indeed, global fiber production has almost doubled in the last 20 years from 58 million tonnes in 2000 to 109 million tonnes in 2020. While it is not yet clear how the pandemic and other factors will impact future development, global fiber production is expected to increase by another 34 percent to 146 million tonnes in 2030 if the industry builds back business as usual. If this growth continues, it will be increasingly difficult for the industry to meet science-based targets for climate and nature.

Textile Exchange aims to be the driving force for urgent climate action, and its Climate+ strategy calling for the textile industry to reduce greenhouse gas emissions by 45 percent by 2030 compared to a 2019 baseline in the pre-spinning phase of textile fiber and materials production, while also addressing other impact areas interconnected with climate such as water, biodiversity, and soil health.

• Testing and development achieve rigidity and safety milestone

Basaltex, pioneers in innovative uses of basalt fibres, has achieved a significant milestone in developing and testing a new composite material solution comprising fibres of basalt combined with EconCore’s patented honeycomb technology.

This new material development has greatly improved fire resistance and is highly rigid, as well as the usual honeycomb properties of light-weighting.

The company has tested the composite of basalt fibres, a bio resin and rPET honeycomb.

Filaments of only stone fibres are extruded at a temperature of 1450°C, similar to glass but with a number of advantages, not least the absence of boric acid in the process.

Combining this ecological fibre with EconCore’s sustainable technology using rPET, and the bioresin polyfurfuryl alcohol - 100% derived from a waste stream of sugar cane - make this a very sustainable and environmentally friendly product, unlike the majority of thermoset solutions in this type of application.

Railway applications require materials with enhanced fire resistance and the testing has shown that the EconCore-Basaltex solution fits these needs well, at the same time offering the perspective of drastic weight reduction against traditional monolithic GRPs used rather widely in train interiors.

Such sandwich panel could be deployed in applications such as cladding panels, partitions, tables and flooring. The thermoset skin layers give a fast cure at elevated temperature, meaning short cycle time and enabling automated production’.

As well as the railway interior application, this new material combination could be used in any application that requires fire performance combined with a low weight.

Solid net profit and further strengthening of the balance sheet thanks to significant revenue and profitability increases

The automobile industry recovered significantly in the first half of 2021 compared to the prior-year period, which had been impacted by the effects of the coronavirus pandemic. Autoneum benefited from the market dynamics and managed to increase its revenue in local currencies by 24.3% in the first semester. EBIT rose to CHF 44.7 million thanks to higher revenues and further progress in the turnaround in North America, corresponding to an EBIT margin of 5.0%. The strong free cash flow of CHF 67.2 million has allowed for a further reduction in net debt.

In the first half of 2021, 29.2% more light vehicles were produced worldwide than in the coronavirus-hit first half of 2020. The market recovery, though significant, was hampered by the global semiconductor shortage, which led to temporary production stoppages and manufacturers producing lower vehicle volumes. Autoneum increased revenue in local currencies by 24.3% in the first six months. In Swiss francs, revenue climbed by 21.9% to CHF 890.3 million. Business Group SAMEA (South America, Middle East and Africa) grew clearly above market, while the shortage of semiconductors in North America in particular impacted the production of models supplied by Autoneum and the revenue development of Business Group North America.

Autoneum managed to improve its operating result (EBIT) considerably by CHF 76.5 million in the first six months compared to the prior-year period. In addition to higher revenues, this was mainly due to the immediate and sustainable adjustment of the cost structure in all Business Groups to the new market reality in 2020 as well as the improved earnings achieved in the turnaround program in North America. Higher material costs, however, had a negative impact on the operating result. EBIT in the amount of CHF 44.7 million (prior-year period: CHF –31.8 million) corresponds to an EBIT margin of 5.0% (prior-year period: –4.4%).

The development of global light vehicle production in the second half of 2021 remains uncertain due to the semiconductor shortage. Although there is a high demand from end customers in all regions, it can be assumed that the shortage of chips will continue to impact automobile production in the second half of the year, but not as severely as in the second quarter of the first half-year.

Revenue in the second half-year 2021 is expected to be higher than in the first semester. Based on the unfavorable allocation of semiconductors to vehicle models supplied by Autoneum in the first half of 2021, revenue development is likely to be slightly below market for the full year 2021. With an easing of the semiconductor shortage, this will normalize.

DyStar, a specialty chemical company with a heritage of more than a century in product development and innovation, is pleased to announce their continued commitment to the protection of their global intellectual property portfolio.

As an innovative global chemical organisation, DyStar’s intellectual property portfolio is an important part of their DNA. To date, their innovation encompasses more than 1,000 patents, trademarks and patent applications worldwide.

Eric Hopmann, Chief Executive Officer of DyStar Group explains: “As DyStar continues to focus on managing challenges of the rapid global business recovery and exploring exciting growth opportunities across the emerging markets, our team needs to stay vigilant and vigorously protect our global intellectual property portfolio. This has again been demonstrated in a recent incident, where DyStar had to charge three former employees who had neglected to protect DyStar’s intellectual property, and were also under suspicion of having shared DyStar’s proprietary information with the competition.”

Dibella's long-standing forwarding partner Hamacher was taken over by the sustainably committed logistics specialist Heppner at the end of 2018. The new constellation takes Dibella another step further in terms of climate-neutral transport: the logistics company, which originates from France, focuses on the environmentally friendly transport of goods and is investing heavily in a carbon dioxide-neutral vehicle fleet.

"With our first sustainability report, we introduced the monitoring of our carbon dioxide emissions. It turned out that the transport of our textiles produces the most climate gases. We have therefore consistently switched to sea freight and almost without exception do not ship goods by air. However, we still see a need for optimisation from the port of Rotterdam to the customer or to our warehouse. After the takeover of our long-standing forwarding partner Hamacher by the logistics specialist Heppner, there is now a breath of fresh air in our climate-friendly delivery initiative. The company is committed to environmentally friendly transports and a low-emission vehicle fleet. Together we now want to look for solutions to make the "last miles" of our deliveries climate gas neutral," says Ralf Hellmann, Managing Director of Dibella.

Departure into a clean future
Spedition Heppner, with its origins in Alsace, is a family-owned company with worldwide operations and 3,320 employees handling more than 72 million freight items annually. More than a decade ago, the logistics specialist began recording the carbon dioxide emissions released by its fleet of vehicles and steadily reducing them by switching to environmentally friendly energy sources. With a mix of gas, bio-fuel and electric drive, the discharge of greenhouse gases caused by the company's trucks is to be reduced by twenty percent by the year 2025. By 2050, the entire fleet should be diesel-free. To achieve a carbon dioxide-neutral footprint, Heppner is also testing hybrid forms of transport (rail, inland waterways, truck) as well as alternative delivery options (cargo bike).

With the organIQ BLEACH system the CHT Group was the first textile chemical supplier, who offered an ecological alternative to potassium permanganate as a bleaching treatment for Denim. Today, CHT's organIQ products reach beyond the limits of the standards and are state of the art in ecological jeans production worldwide.

In recent years, CHT has continued to research and further develop the organIQ system to find enhancements to the organIQ range that further optimise the system from an ecological point of view and at the same time provide even more variable and broader application possibilities.

organIQ EMS Jeans (Ecological Modular System for Jeans treatment) is based on several modules and every module corresponds to a treatment step. These steps can be mixed and matched in various ways and flexible orders to achieve a great deal of looks and effects.

The new EMS Jeans family supports most modern denim finishing processes. By using selected organIQ products together with water saving nebulization technologies, extremely low water consumptions can be achieved.

Due to this technology, all relevant treatments can be realized at room temperature which is a great energy saving opportunity. Moreover, the pollution of wastewater with toxic substances can be drastically reduced in comparison to common, previously applied denim treatments.

Huafon Microfiber Co. Ltd. has placed orders for three complete, state-of-the-art high capacity needling lines with DiloGroup for its new plant in Qidong, Jiangsu Province, China. The lines will be shipped to Huafon this year.

All these lines consist of DiloTemafa high capacity blending systems, DiloSpinnbau special card feeding systems and high capacity carding machines, DiloMachines high speed crosslappers with special air-guide system for the best layering performance, as well as numerous DiloMachines needlelooms with Hyperpunch technology. The Twinflow-system provides a homogeneous flock mat while “Webguide” and 3-apron-layering system result in an excellent web quality with precise web edges. All lines are equipped with CV1 system for the best end product uniformity.

Huafon Microfiber Co. Ltd was established in 2002 and is now one of the biggest producers of artificial leather made from sea-island fibre worldwide. The main applications of these high quality artificial leathers are shoe, automotive, glove, bag, sofa etc.

DiloGroup supplied the first complete needling line to Huafon in Jinshan, China, in 2003 and up to now Huafon has ordered more than twenty needling lines.

Montalvo, an international specialists in web tension control, has been awarded the 2021 Exporter of the Year Award from the Maine International Trade Center for outstanding commitment to strengthening Montalvo’s businesses through international markets.

Montalvo Corporation CEO Robin Goodwin. "This award feels like a validation of our strategy and the teamwork we have at Montalvo. This is huge for us. We are a small, family-owned company, and all of us here are excited as this award is something every single one of our employees shares in.  We have some great product development going, new industry’s we are getting into, and expanding our capabilities and solutions offering, so it’s a very exciting time for the company and our employees, and this award has only energized us further."

Montalvo sells to over 70 countries across the globe, with their headquarters in Maine, USA, and with operations in China and Europe.

Laying the bases for a more sustainable world, adopting responsible strategies is no longer an option but an indispensable and compulsory structural revolution today and for the future to come. This topic is the subject of the Smart Voice "The Circular Stories of C.L.A.S.S.: the journey of Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei towards a smart, responsible and contemporary luxury" organised by C.L.A.S.S. eco hub that has taken place on Thursday 27th May at 4 pm CET. 4 unique and complimentary design realities has been sharing  the  Bemberg ™ choice as unique and precious fibre ingredient that gives rise to a performing design incorporating new generation values, for their unique paths of style and fashion to offer to the contemporary consumer.

Specialist and expert of innovative fibres, during the session Ettore Pellegrini, Marketing & Sales Manager-Marketing & Sales Manager Asahi Kasei Fibers Italia, illustrated the history of Bemberg™ starting from its origins to nowadays, reporting its various applications that have been then illustrated in their uniqueness by the speakers of the session.

Paolo Verdoia, Lining research and development raw materials at Ermenegildo Zegna, who has been involved in the development of accessory raw materials for the Ermenegildo Zegna Group for 14 years. During the digital meeting he talked about priority collaborations with responsible and high quality materials such as Bemberg™, the brand's approach to sustainability and future projects.

The session has also been attended by new generation designer Gilberto Calzolari winner of C.L.A.S.S. ICON 2020, who used Bemberg™ in his latest AW 2021-22 collection entitled "At this stage".

Camilla Carrara, founder and zero-waste designer Zerobarracento says "We select Bemberg™ for our creations for two fundamental reasons: firstly, from a stylistic point of view for its extreme versatility: in the various collections we have adopted it to create Kimonos, padded jackets, wrap dresses as well as for the interiors of our garments, which are intended to be soft embraces for total physical and mental comfort. The second but no less important reason is that this fibre has circular values in line with our zero-waste commitment."

“By choosing to work with Bemberg™, we have made an exclusive and sustainable choice in order to offer tailors, designers, brands and garment manufacturers who believe in and are committed to responsible but at the same time premium and exclusive fashion a new business opportunity" says Alessandro Ivaldi Director Business Unit of Carnet, a division of Ratti Group that produces and distributes worldwide fabrics for the creation of made-to-measure garments for men and women.

• ANDRITZ receives an additional order for a high-speed spunlace line from Zhejiang Kingsafe, China

International technology Group ANDRITZ has received an order from Zhejiang Kingsafe Hygiene Materials Technology Co., Ltd. in Hezhou, China, to supply a complete new neXline spunlace line. The line is scheduled for installation and start-up during the second quarter of 2022.

This high-capacity spunlace eXcelle line will process either 100% biodegradable fibers or blends of polyester and viscose. It is dedicated to the production of hygiene and medical fabrics. The final products will have fabric weights ranging from 30 to 100 gsm, and the annual production capacity will be up to 18,000 tons.

ANDRITZ will deliver a complete line, from web forming to drying, also integrating two high-speed TT cards, the well-known JetlaceEssentiel hydroentanglement unit and the neXdry through-air dryer equipped with a neXecodry S1 system for energy saving. This combination is becoming the market benchmark for the production of lightweight spunlace fabrics dedicated to the hygiene market.

“We are proud to operate ANDRITZ nonwoven lines, which are very reliable and efficient. It helps us a lot in producing top-of-the-range, nonwoven roll goods, thus enabling us to be recognized as a key player among nonwovens producers worldwide,” says Kingsafe’s president, Mr. Huarong Yan.

Zhejiang Kingsafe Hygiene Materials Technology Co., Ltd., founded in 1987, is one of the largest companies in China producing spunlace and spunbond nonwoven roll goods, with several spunlace lines already in operation. The final products are exported all over the world and used in many fields, such as the medical sector, health care, high-tech agriculture, and high-quality consumer and household products.

The new line is now the ninth spunlace line supplied by ANDRITZ and the third with high-speed TT cards, thus confirming the successful, long-term partnership between ANDRITZ and Zhejiang Kingsafe. The order also proves that the solution provided by ANDRITZ is recognized as the benchmark for production of premium spunlace roll goods and contains the perfect combination for wipes converting machines.