From the Sector

• Lectra – ESCP Europe ‘Fashion & Technology’ Chair round-table event hears panelists emphasize the need for fashion companies to embrace Industry 4.0.

Paris, February 27, 2018 – Lectra, the technological partner for companies using fabrics and leather, the French business school ESCP Europe and their joint ‘Fashion & Technology’ Chair explored the impact of Industry 4.0 on fashion’s value chain during a recent insightful round table discussion at ESCP Europe’s London campus.
For the participants Robert Diamond, Founder and CEO, Fernbrook Partners; Dan Hartley, Global Head of Digital Commerce, AllSaints; Laëtitia Hugé, Vice-President, Product Marketing, Lectra; Pierre Mercier, Senior Partner and Managing Director, Boston Consulting Group; and Evelthon Vassilou, CEO, Alison Hayes, there was consensus. Industry 4.0 represents unparalleled opportunities to take the fashion industry forward.

From brand to manufacturer, panelists from across the value chain emphasized the necessity for the industry to embrace the alliance between man and machines to leverage massive benefits, from quicker decision-making to cost-reduction.
Exploring the advantages of Industry 4.0 technology, Evelthon Vassilou commented: “Interpreting the data of what is, and isn’t, selling should help to speed up decisions. You can react very quickly across the entire supply chain, and either stop producing something unsuccessful or ramp up production if successful. Data and data analytics is not sufficient, to succeed this also requires a high degree of trust and integration between retailers and suppliers.”

“It’s about using technology to deliver continuous improvement in everyday business,” said Robert Diamond. “People are not good at making a large volume of repeatable decisions with many different data inputs”. Identifying where machines, and where people, bring value is an important part of embracing Industry 4.0. “If the business decision, or the outcome of the resolution tomorrow, is pretty much the same as what happened yesterday, then there is a chance for machine learning to help improve the situation.”
For Pierre Mercier, technology propelled by Industry 4.0 is disrupting former sources of competitive advantage, “forcing companies to rethink how they want to compete in their respective industries, and how to use data to compete differently. The common denominator in the fashion ecosystem is that everyone is facing the opportunity for a step change and need to figure out where to double down and accelerate their transformation.”

“Agility and flexibility are increasingly important for fashion players. Cutting-edge technology is supporting the fashion industry as it steps into the 4.0 era, ensuring businesses have the right solutions in their own ecosystems, to effectively harness the right data to make the right decisions,” stated Laëtitia Hugé.

At UK fashion brand AllSaints, valuable data harnessed from the net promoter score is paramount for their business. “We take customer feedback very seriously and we use it as a framework for our internal roadmap - from a tech and development point of view, through to design and fit, the customer is at the heart of everything we do,” stated Dan Hartley. In addition, he underlined that using technology across communications “will be huge going forward for AllSaints. From supply chain to store teams, we aim to use a cloud-based system that works within our own eco-system, complementing our agile model.”
The round table was moderated by the co-director of Lectra-ESCP Europe ‘Fashion and Technology’ Chair Valérie Moatti.
 

The two AZL Partners Conbility GmbH and Fraunhofer IPT, Aachen started their long-term cooperation for the further development and for the commercialization of Fraunhofer´s tape-placement and tape winding systems with in-situ-consolidation by the usage of laser or IR heat sources.

With this cooperation, the company Conbility GmbH makes 25 years of expertise in special machine development of tape placement systems of the Fraunhofer Institute for Production Technology IPT commercially available. Conbility offers two different tape processing systems available in different configurations.

The “PrePro 2D” machine system allows for the automated tailored tape placement of UD laminates and which can be used for subsequent thermoforming or as stiffening structures in injection molding processes. The machine comprises a rotating and translational table which is moved relatively to the applicator station. The table is scalable according to the requirements of customers. Standard table diameters are 1200 mm or 2000 mm. The applicator station can be equipped with a single or with multiple spool applicators. Because of the large process area, a 9 kW IR heater is used for the in-situ-consolidation process.  
Three in one: Three technologies included in one single modular system
Furthermore, the award-winning “PrePro 3D” tape placement and winding applicator is available as modular product with decentral control system (including closed-loop control of energy input into the processing zone) for the “plug-in” implementation in existing robot systems or machine systems by standard interfaces for the communication with the master control system. Conbility provides the single applicator as well as turn-key ready systems including the robot and handling systems.

Unique selling point of the PrePro 3D system is its multifunctional range of usage: it accomplishes laser-assisted thermoplastic tape placement, IR-assisted thermoset prepreg placement and dry fiber placement: Three technologies included in one single modular system.  

During the JEC World in Paris (March 6th – 8th 2018), Conbility GmbH will present its new “VCSEL Tape Placement and Winding Applicator” (Fig. 3), developed in cooperation with Fraunhofer IPT and Philips Photonics at the AZL Composites in Action area (Hall 5A, C55).

VCSEL Laser Systems as heat source for lower investment and process costs
This applicator uses an integrated VCSEL Laser System as heat source which has been developed by Philips Photonics. This tape placement and winding applicator can also be integrated as modular “plug-in” system into industrial jointed-arm and linear gantry robots in variable manufacturing cells. Using the new VCSEL Laser as heat source (VCSEL: Vertical-Cavity Surface Emitting Laser) leads to significant lower investment and process cost in comparison to other laser systems. Furthermore, the VCSEL laser system can accomplish controllable in-process adjustments of the laser-spot geometry as well as the intensity distribution within the spot size during the process (in-process control of laser-spot geometries and intensities) for the first time. The new system with 2 kW laser power and 10 separate emission zones which can be controlled separately will be shown at JEC World in Paris 2018 as new product of Conbility GmbH.

Im Rahmen einer Pressekonferenz auf der Sportartikelmesse ISPO Munich verkündeten der Geschäftsführer der ABS Protection GmbH,vo Dr. Stefan Mohr und Felix Neureuther heute ihre strategische Partnerschaft. Mit der Information, dass diese Partnerschaft über eine Verpflichtung als Testimonial hinausgeht, gab Neureuther heute erstmals bekannt, dass es hier um seine berufliche Zukunft nach der aktiven Karriere als Skirennfahrer geht.

Gemeinschaftlich traten Dr Stefan Mohr und Felix Neureuther auf die Bühne, und als Team verließen sie diese auch wieder, mit aufgeblasenen Lawinenairbags durch die Partnerauslösung als Symbol der gemeinsamen Zukunft. Geschäftsführer Dr Stefan Mohr ist nach seinen ersten vier Monaten im Amt sehr zuversichtlich, dass das Unternehmen schon in der kurzen Zeit einen großen Sprung gemacht hat und alle Zeichen auch weiterhin auf Wachstum stehen: „Mit dem Claim „Protection in Adventure“ soll ABS auch mit Hilfe von Felix Neureuther eine Marke werden, die als Synonym für den Schutz bei egal welchem Abenteuer werden, im Winter und erstmals auch im Sommer. Wir haben viele Ideen und sind gerade dabei uns viel breiter aufzustellen als bisher und weg vom saisonalen Geschäft zu gehen“, erklärt er. Auch Felix Neureuther spricht über das große Potential der Marke und erzählt in einem Nebensatz, dass sogar sein Großvater, damals als Arzt bei der Bergrettung in Garmisch-Partenkirchen Einsatz, schon an der Entwicklung des ersten Lawinenairbags vor über 30 Jahren beteiligt war. „Das Thema Sicherheit liegt mir sehr am Herzen und ich möchte gerne das bestehende Produktportfolio erweitern und auch aktiv an der Produktentwicklung mitarbeiten, schließlich geht es jetzt für mich als Teilhaber nun auch um den wirtschaftlichen Erfolg des Unternehmens.“

At the upcoming ISPO exhibition, SITIP are pleased to introduce BEHOT, a SITIP Heat Generating Technology for fabrics that has been licensed from the unique ROICA™ StretchEnergy™ System by Asahi Kasei and is already adopted by Santini that is offering Premium cycle wear Made in Italy since 1965.

SITIP is a leading Italian textile company specialized in high-tech and function-rich innovations for sport, technical underwear, shapewear, beachwear, footwear components, protective helmets, and in particular Velcro-receptive fabrics for mechanical fastening systems and a number of innovative technical fabrics for other industrial end-uses, all made through key manufacture technologies that include weft & warp knit fabric innovations.

Further, SITIP has more recently launched 16 unique trade brands, each one specialized in highly advanced innovation solutions designed to fit both market and the discerning needs of the contemporary consumer.

Santini is offering to the market a multi-panel thermal bib tight for the coldest winter training. Made with the special BeHot fabric by Sitip, constructed with the ROICA™ StretchEnergy™ active performance material, it not only insulates, but generates up to 2 degrees of heat as you workout as certified by CeRism, Outdoor Sport Research Centre at Verona University. Complete comfort and protection thanks to the Acquazero by Sitip treatment that ensures you stay dry even in the most challenging conditions.

The design is completed with breathable mesh braces for added comfort and a reflective pixel detail on the leg to improve visibility in low light conditions. BeHOT represents a special combination of a highly refined type of knitted construction combined with this unique ROICA™ Premium Stretch yarn function, and has been especially developed for this new high-function concept.

In Sachen Eigensicherung bei Wintereinsätzen setzt die bayerische Bergwacht künftig auf den Erfinder und Technologieführer von Lawinenairbags ABS. 50 Dienststellen wurden mit rund 250 ABS P.RIDE Original Lawinenairbags ausgestattet. Eine eigens entwickelte Software sichert große Suchmannschaften von bis zu 200 Helfern bei der Gefahr vor Nachlawinen.

Rettungsmannschaften sind während ihrer Einsätze in lawinengefährdeten Gebieten besonders der Gefahr von Nachlawinen ausgesetzt. Speziell für diese Situation mit großen Einsatzgruppen liefert der Lawinenairbag-Hersteller ABS nun ein Sicherheits-Plus. Während das klassische P.RIDE System bis zu 15 Personen im Partnerauslösungs-System erfassen kann, hat der Technologieführer für die Bergwacht Bayern eigens eine Software entwickelt, die es ermöglicht Suchmannschaften von bis zu 200 Helfern zu gruppieren, auch wenn einzelne Helfer zu einem späteren Zeitpunkt am Einsatzort eintreffen. Dank der integrierten Partnerauslösung ist dadurch eine gegenseitige Sicherung zu jeder Zeit gewährleistet.

Die Bergwacht Bayern beginnt mit 250 P.RIDE Einheiten um sukzessive die neue Technologie einzuführen. Zur Partnerschaft mit ABS sagt Paul Schenk: „Die Sicherheit der Retter hat für uns oberste Priorität, mit ABS setzen wir die langjährige Partnerschaft mit einem zukunftsweisenden Lawinen-Airbagsystem fort“.

Laut Studien werden 20 Prozent der Airbags bei einem Lawinenabgang nicht ausgelöst. Mit dem Lawinenairbag P.RIDE vom Marktführer ABS wurde erstmals eine Lösung für dieses generelle Sicherheitsproblem gefunden – durch eine serienmäßige, wechselseitige Partnerauslösung per Funk. Die Funkverbindung zu den Partnern mit P.RIDE Lawinenairbags erlaubt es, im Ernstfall sowohl die eigene Verschüttung, als auch die von Begleitern in einer Gruppe aktiv zu verhindern und alle verbundenen Airbags auszulösen.

• erhältlich ab Februar 2018

Die britische Manufaktur Farrow & Ball stellt drei ihrer beliebtesten Tapetenmotive in neuen Farbvarianten vor und bietet Designfans die Möglichkeit, ihr Zuhause mit dramatischen Farben und opulenten Mustern neu zu inszenieren. Zum ersten Mal legen internationale Farrow & Ball Farbberater neue Farbschemen für bestehende Tapetenmuster fest und präsentieren diese Neuinterpretationen ab Februar 2018 in der Reimagined Collection.

Die Kollektion umfasst Damast-, Blumen- und Streifendesigns, die allesamt mit den Nuancen der Farrow & Ball Farbpalette zu neuem Leben erweckt wurden, sorgfältig zusammengestellt von Farrow & Ball Farbberatern aus England, Nordamerika, Frankreich und Deutschland.

Die Tapete Lotus ist in jedem Raum ein extravaganter Blickfang. Ihren Ursprung findet die von Hand gestaltete Lotus-Blüte in der britischen Arts & Crafts Bewegung, die Mitte des 19. Jahrhunderts stattfand. Im neuen Design mit Off-Black und Brinjal wirkt Lotus beinahe noch theatralischer als zuvor. „Das Lotus-Design in der Farbkombination aus Off-Black und Brinjal passt mühelos in ein eher schlicht eingerichtetes Esszimmer mit einladender, weicher Beleuchtung. Ich wollte eine Tapete, die üppig und dramatisch wirkt und der Wand gleichzeitig durch den subtilen Kontrast zwischen Hintergrund- und Motivfarbe eine Anmutung von weichem Jacquard-Stoff verleiht.“ so Patrick O’Donnell, internationaler Farbberater bei Farrow & Ball.

Das klassische florale Muster Wisteria, inspiriert von englischen Seidenstoffen aus dem 19. Jahrhundert, verkörpert die einnehmende Wirkung der britischen Romantik. Die unterschiedlichen Farbvarianten betonen das üppige Design des blühenden Blauregens. Auch der allgegenwärtige Metallic-Trend dient als Inspirationsquelle für die drei neuen Farbkombinationen von Wisteria und vereint apartes Kupfer mit Stiffkey Blue und Black Blue. Dieses Design setzt glänzende Highlights im Schlafzimmer, und einfallendes Tageslicht lässt die Metallic-Elemente zart schimmern.

Die Neuinterpretation der Streifentapete Block Print Stripe besticht mit einer luxuriösen und ausdrucksstarken Kombination von Hague Blue, Vardo und Arsenic. Sie kann horizontal, vertikal oder auch seitenverkehrt gehängt werden, um so einen gewagten Streifen mit doppelter Breite zu kreieren, der sich variabel an die Raumgröße anpassen lässt.

Wie alle Farrow & Ball Tapeten werden auch die neuen Designs in einem traditionellen Herstellungsverfahren von Hand gefertigt und mit den original Farrow & Ball Farben bedruckt. So entsteht die unvergleichliche Wirkung und Haptik der Tapeten.

Die neuen Tapeten sind ab dem 8. Februar 2018 in allen Farrow & Ball Showrooms, bei Fachhändlern und unter farrow-ball.com erhältlich.

Innovationen gibt es für Lauf-, Bike- und Fitness- sowie für Yoga- und Outdoor-Bekleidung

creora®, die innovative Elastanmarke des koreanischen Herstellers Hyosung Corporation, wird auf der ISPO in München erstmals seine neuen Stoffinnovationen aus recycelten Materialien sowie die neue Kollektion der creora®-Elastanstoffe vorstellen.

Als weltgrößter Hersteller von recyceltem Nylon und recyceltem Polyester arbeitet Hyosung stetig daran, sowohl die produktionsbedingten Abfälle als auch den Energie- und Wasserverbrauch so gut wie möglich zu reduzieren. Für die Verwendung von recycelten Materialien und der Sicherstellung einer umweltfreundlichen Produktion hat das Unternehmen das „Global Recycle Standard“-Zertifikat (GRS) erhalten.

Auf der ISPO wird der Hersteller Hyosung seine Stoffinnovation MIPAN regen aqua-X präsentieren, ein recyceltes Nylon mit kühlender Wirkung. In Kombination mit creora® Color+ eignet sich dieser Stoff besonders gut für Lauf-, Bike- und Fitnessbekleidung. Für eine höhere Chlorbeständigkeit für Schwimm- und Triathlonbekleidung wird MIPAN regen aqua-X zusätzlich mit creora® highclo™ verarbeitet.

Außerdem hat creora® das recycelte Polyester regen cotna entwickelt. In Kombination mit dem Elastan creora® Fresh eignet sich der Stoff perfekt für jede Art von Outdoor-Bekleidung.

Weitere nachhaltige Stoffe enthalten das spinngefärbte Elastan creora® Black mit dem Nylon MIPAN Black, das Durchscheineffekte etwa bei Laufbekleidung oder Unterwäsche vermeidet. Speziell für Yoga-
Bekleidung kommt das spinngefärbte Nylon creora® eco-soft zum Einsatz.

• Unique ROICA™ Premium Stretch Innovations for the Active Wardrobe Debuts @ ISPO Brandnew Village
• Hall B4, Booth No. B4.430 BN 02 Munich 28th-31th January 2018

Come and enjoy a real dedication to Responsible Innovation and Wellbeing in our new ROICA™  booth experience for Fabric Innovation inspiring the ROICA™ Active Wardrobe and the international ROICA™ Closet. Together, they will guide you to new hi-tech performance solutions in our partners unique stretch ideas, designed to meet both contemporary business and astute consumer desires. These latest ROICA™ innovations will be presented within the special ISPO BrandNew arena, a new high visibility concept of creativity revealed inside ISPO that truly matches the core DNA and values of the ROICA™ premium stretch brand.

ROICA™ will present The Modern Wardrobe concept in 3 distinct dimensions.

Together they bring to life our new stretch solutions that fit the supply chain for our target consumer confirming a clear brand identity that redefines performance creativity.

1 ROICA™ ACTIVE WARDROBE: Come and see leading commercial fashion ranges ready for the Summer 2018, that include the ROICA™ Eco Smart family and the ROICA™ Feel Good family of unique premium stretch yarn solutions.

2 ROICA™ INNOVATION: Here you can find the latest textile performance innovations from our partner mills to inspire even more brand creativity.

The ROICA™ Fabric Gallery is a rich and varied fabric offer that focuses on:
•    The revolutionary ROICA™ Eco Smart family of sustainably designed stretch yarns. These yarns are either GRS certified, or have the Cradle-to-Cradle Innovation Institute GOLD LEVEL certificate for material health, plus the Hohenstein Environment Certificate, where at its end-of-life, it smartly breaks down releasing less harmful materials. These unique commercialized solutions suites for intimates, athleisure, sportswear, and more.
•    The unique ROICA™ Feel Good family promises a new level of performance with ‘feel-good comfort’ and freshness. The ROICA™ CF yarn delivers an odor-neutralizing durable function in wash and wear because its active ingredient is locked inside the yarn and only requires a modest % to perform in most fabric structures.
•    A new ROICA™ Stretch Energy™ is a truly verified heat-generating system that combines a customised ROICA™ polymer with special fabric structures where a stretch and recovery action produces real warmth, maintaining support during exercise.

3 ROICA™ CLOSET: In this zone you can explore new ROICA™ garment designs from our experimental laboratory, using innovative Japanese fabric creativity.

Also at our ROICA™ booth, you will be able to explore sister brand Cupro innovations, designed responsibly for a new, luxe view of athleisure sportswear.

Today, the ROICA™ premium stretch brand sets the highest quality standards that are uniquely specialized and certificated perfectly focused on responsible performance for the active sportswear, swimwear and athliesure wear categories, making it the ‘smart-fit’ for the ISPO BrandNew Village presentation.

Lectra brings together partnership schools and industry experts to discuss how changing professions
in fashion are impacting training programs

Lectra, the world leader in integrated technology solutions dedicated to industries using fabrics, leather,
technical textiles and composite materials, recently welcomed partners from the world of
education to the company’s Bordeaux-Cestas campus for its eighth education congress. The
event was dedicated to the mega trends shaping the fashion industry and impacting
professions from design to production.

Over fifty representatives from among the most important fashion schools in Germany, Canada, China,
USA, France, Hong Kong, Italy, The Netherlands, Poland, United Kingdom, Switzerland and Sweden, participated
in this biannual meeting between industry experts and teaching professionals.

Fashion professions are evolving as companies make their first steps towards Industry 4.0, adopting 3D
and rationalizing the lifecycle management for their collections thanks to PLM. Lectra’s congress enabled
schools to discuss the developing role of designers and patternmakers, and the new elements to be
integrated into training programs.

Lectra illustrated future changes through presentations on design, patternmaking, 3D prototyping, and PLM.
“It is fundamental to bring innovation experts in the industry together with fashion schools, because
students will drive the evolution of this industry,” stated Pascal Denizart, Managing Director of the Centre
européen des textiles innovants (CETI).

Working with schools to design courses which meet the needs of fashion companies has always been at
the heart of Lectra’s education program. During the event, the company presented collaborative
experiences between partner schools and fashion brands, such as the competitions organised by Lectra
with Missoni, Balenciaga, and Armani in Italy, as well as Peacebird in China and JC Penney in the United
States.

In the United Kingdom, Lectra collaborated with COS (H&M group) and the Arts University Bournemouth
(AUB) for a competition centred on the design of a collection with zero waste.
“The process was totally digital, from design to the creation of a virtual prototype in 3D. Our students learnt
to optimize each stage of the process. By leveraging the use of Kaledo®, Modaris® and Diamino®, the
collaborative work between AUB, COS and Lectra is exactly the type of project that enormously motivates
our students. Live briefs developed with leading fashion brands and Lectra offer excellent opportunities
which directly inform industry currency and student employability,” explained Penny Norman, a lecturer at
AUB.

The event also shone the spotlight on China and its major role in the evolution of the fashion industry.
Li Min, Vice-Dean of the fashion and design faculty at Donghua university in Shanghai spoke of the event,
organized by Lectra, which brought together major Chinese companies, experts, and representatives from
the biggest schools in China.

“Exchanges on the impact of the Made in China 2025 plan on the fashion industry can better prepare
students for tomorrow’s professions, where digital and automation will occupy a far more central position
than today,” testified Li Min.

"The fashion industry is evolving so fast that sharing insights and best practices with experts and other
fashion schools has become vital to ensure we offer the best learning experience and technology tools to
our students", said Dr. Trevor J. Little, Professor of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management in
the College of Textiles at NC State University.

“Lectra’s eighth education congress confirms the company’s commitment to our partner schools. We
shared our analysis of the market, the digitalization of the eco-system, and how Industry 4.0 principles can
be applied to the fashion industry. We also discussed mass customization and the role of PLM. While these
are key subjects for our customers, many schools are only now approaching them. We are preparing
tomorrow, today: Lectra is supporting our customers, and schools to play an essential role,” concludes
Céline Choussy Bedouet, Chief Marketing and Communications Officer, Lectra.

At the Famab award ceremony in Ludwigsburg on 23 November, the Trevira City fair stand – shown at Orgatec 2016 in Cologne last year – won the Golden Apple in the architecture category – Best Stand M. The Famab Award is a hugely prestigious accolade for integrated brand experiences. It honours major international projects in the fields of architecture (temporary or permanent) and interpersonal communication.

Trevira´s CEO, Klaus Holz, said, “We are delighted that our Trevira City has been awarded the Golden Apple. We would like to thank interior designers raumkontor for coming up with such a fantastic idea for our stand, and we´d also like to say a big thank you to the organisers for making the award ceremony at the Forum am Schlosspark in Ludwigsburg such an enjoyable experience.”

The Trevira City, which was developed by the interior designers at raumkontor and realised by Buchhold and Glindemann GmbH, took up the fair’s theme: “New Visions of Work”. Trevira City, which comprised eight houses made of fabric, showed textile solutions for modern work environments. It offered a new perspective on modern work environments where the borders between working and living become blurred, thereby demanding new approaches to design. In between the houses, an open space was created that stands for the central themes of efficient work processes: communication, creativity, inspiration, networking, and motion.

The fibre manufacturer, who was a first time exhibitor at Orgatec, presented its stand in collaboration with six fabric partners who showcased their products in one of each of the houses: Baumann Dekor, Casalegno Tendaggi, Fidivi, Hohmann, Müller Zell, Pugi. The various facets of the exhibition display the huge range of possibilities created by the participating manufacturers with their Trevira CS products.

Other fabric suppliers also contributed to the textile furnishings of the fair stand. Création Baumann, JAB Anstoetz, Mattes & Ammann, and Silent Gliss were the sponsors for the textile decorations in the two Trevira houses.