From the Sector

Using bio-based and bio-degradable, recyclable insulation textiles to sustainably insulate heat and reduce energy consumption and the carbon footprint - the Aachen-based start-up SA-Dynamics has developed a solution for this dream of many building owners together with industrial partners. SA-Dynamics won the second Innovation Award in the "New Technologies on Sustainability & Recycling" category at the leading textile trade fairs Techtextil and Texprocess for this development.

The bio-based recyclable insulation textiles consist of 100 percent bio-based aerogel-fibres. They contain up to 90 percent air, trapped in the nano-pore system of the aerogel-fibres. The bio-based raw material is sustainably sourced and certified. The insulation textiles made from bio-based aerogel fibres are said to insulate the same or even better than synthetic insulating materials of fossil origin like PET, PE or PP and mineral or stone wool.

"By using bio-based aerogels, we are doing away with fossil-based materials and doing something for the environment and climate," explains Maximilian Mohr, Chief Technical Officer (CTO) at SA-Dynamics. "We are thus meeting the regulatory measures of the EU and the governments of many countries for more climate and environmental protection. By using bio-based, recyclable aerogels, we can revolutionise the world of construction.“

The Aachen-based start-up SA-Dynamics is made up of researchers from the Institut für Textiltechnik (ITA) and the Institute of Industrial Furnace Construction and Heat Engineering (IOB) at RWTH Aachen University.

The bio-based aerogel fibres originate from the LIGHT LINING research project of the BIOTEXFUTURE innovation area. The LIGHT LINING research project focussed on sports and outdoor textiles. The research results are transferable to the construction sector.

The Techtextil and Texprocess Innovation Awards ceremony will take place on 23 April 2024 at 12.30 pm in Hall 9.0 in Frankfurt/Main, Germany.

The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) applauds the European Parliament's vote to ban unverified 'green' product labels by enforcing stricter rules to back green claims and labels. By obligating companies to submit evidence about environmental marketing claims – including advertising and labelling products as ‘biodegradable’, ‘less polluting’, ‘water saving’, or having ‘bio-based content’ – consumers will be able to make better informed decisions about the sustainability of their purchases.

Consumers need protection from greenwashing and false claims about a product’s environmental impact. GOTS provides rules and tools for fostering responsible business practices and to support businesses to comply with domestic and international laws and beyond. The current GOTS Version 7.0 includes rigorous criteria for the protection of human, employment and social rights, as well as the environment and climate. By being certified to GOTS 7.0 and selling GOTS-labelled goods, companies are demonstrating their commitment to sustainability and human rights.

• Combination of financial and non-financial reporting as evidence of the central role of sustainability
• Measurable progress in achieving sustainability and climate targets
• Recognized for sustainability and prepares for the European Green Deal

The Lenzing Group has published a combined annual and sustainability report for the first time, reaffirming the strategic importance of social and environmental responsibility for the company. With the title “Ready to join?”, Lenzing would like to extend an invitation to all customers and partners to join forces to renew the textile and nonwovens industries and bring about positive change.

“This annual and sustainability report is also an invitation to find answers together. Lenzing is working tirelessly to make the industries in which it operates even more sustainable and to drive the transformation of the textile business model from linear to circular. For this transformation to be successful, further efforts by the entire industry and a policy designed to ensure a level playing field for sustainability pioneers are needed,” says Stephan Sielaff, CEO of the Lenzing Group.

The results for the 2023 financial year were already published. The report was once again prepared in digital form and is now available.

After a long phase of continuous growth, the composites market has seen strong fluctuations since 2018. In 2023, the overall market for composites in Europe fell by 8%.

The current mood on the markets in Germany and Europe is rather negative within the industry. The main drivers are the persistently high energy and raw material prices. Added to this are problems in logistics chains and a cautious consumer climate. A slowdown in global trade and uncertainties in the political arena are fueling the negative sentiment. Despite rising registration figures, the automotive industry, the most important application area for composites, has not yet returned to its pre-2020 volume. The construction industry, the second key application area, is currently in crisis. These factors have already caused the Eu-ropean composites production volume to fall significantly in recent years. There has now been another decline in Europe for 2023.

Overall development of the composites market
The volume of the global composites market totalled 13 million tons in 2023. Compared to 2022, with a volume of 12.3 million tons, growth was around 5%. In comparison, the European composites production volume fell by 8% in 2023. The total European composites market thus comprises a volume of 2,559 kilotons (kt) after 2,781 kt in 2022.

The market is therefore declining and falling back to the level of 2014. Overall, market momentum in Europe was lower than in the global market. Europe's share of the global market is now around 20%.

As in previous years, development within Europe is not uniform. The differences are due to very different regional core markets, the high variability of the materi-als used, a wide range of different manufacturing processes and widely differing areas of application. Accordingly, there are different regional trends, especially with regard to the individual processes, although there were declines in all re-gions and for almost all processes in 2023. At almost 50% of the market volume, the transportation sector accounts for the largest share of total composites pro-duction in terms of volume. The next two largest areas are the electri-cal/electronics sector and applications in construction and infrastructure.

The entire market report 2023 is available for download: https://www.avk-tv.de/publications.php.

The Lenzing Group has updated its climate targets to align with the goals of the Paris Agreement to limit the human-induced global temperature increase to 1.5 degrees Celsius. The Science Based Targets Initiative (SBTi) has reviewed and confirmed this target improvement.

By 2030, Lenzing aims to reduce its direct emissions from the production of its fiber and pulp plants (scope 1) and its emissions from purchased energy (scope 2) by 42 percent and its indirect emissions along the value chain (scope 3) by 25 percent on the way to net zero, from 2021 baseline. This corresponds to an absolute reduction of 1,100,000 tons (instead of the previously targeted 700,000 tons).

The following targets were recognized and confirmed by the SBTi:

1. Overall net-zero target: Lenzing AG commits to reach net-zero greenhouse gas emissions along the entire value chain by 2050.
2. Near-term targets: Lenzing AG commits to reduce absolute scope 1 and scope 2 greenhouse gas emissions by 42 percent by 2030 from a base year 2021. Lenzing AG also commits to reduce absolute scope 3 greenhouse gas emissions from purchased goods and services, fuels and energy-related activities as well as upstream transport and distribution by 25 percent within the same timeframe.
3. Long-term targets: Lenzing AG commits to reduce absolute scope 1 and scope 2 greenhouse gas emissions by 90 percent by 2050 from a base year 2021. Lenzing AG also commits to reduce absolute scope 3 greenhouse gas emissions by 90 percent within in the same timeframe.

These updated targets replace the old SBTi approved Lenzing Group’s climate target in 2019.

From Resource-efficient and Recycled Fibres for Textiles and Building Panels to Geotextiles for Glacier Protection: Six award nominees present innovative and sustainable solutions for various industries in the cellulose fibre value chain. The full economic potential of the cellulose fibre industry will be introduced to a wide audience that will vote for the winners in Cologne (Germany), and online.

Again nova-Institute grants the “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year” award in the context of the “Cellulose Fibres Conference”, that will take place in Cologne on 13 and 14 March 2024. In advance, the conferences advisory board nominated six remarkable products, including cellulose fibres from textile waste and straw, a novel technology for dying cellulose-based textiles and a construction panel as well as geotextiles. The innovations will be presented by the companies on the first day of the event. All conference participants can vote for one of the six nominees and the top three winners will be honoured with the “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year” award. The Innovation award is sponsored by GIG Karasek (AT).

In addition, the ever-growing sectors of cellulose-based nonwovens, packaging and hygiene products offer conference participants insights beyond the horizon of traditional textile applications. Sustainability and other topics such as fibre-to-fibre recycling and alternative fibre sources are the key topics of the Cellulose Fibres Conference, held in Cologne, Germany, on 13 and 14 March 2024 and online. The conference will showcase the most successful cellulose-based solutions currently on the market or those planned for the near future.

The nominees:

The Straw Flexi-Dress: Design Meets Sustainability – DITF & VRETENA (DE)
The Flexi-Dress design was inspired by the natural golden colour and silky touch of HighPerCell® (HPC) filaments based on unbleached straw pulp. These cellulose filaments are produced using environmentally friendly spinning technology in a closed-loop production process. The design decisions focused on the emotional connection and attachment to the HPC material to create a local and circular fashion product. The Flexi-Dress is designed as a versatile knitted garment – from work to street – that can be worn as a dress, but can also be split into two pieces – used separately as a top and a straight skirt. The top can also be worn with the V-neck front or back. The HPC textile knit structure was considered important for comfort and emotional properties.

HONEXT® Board FR-B (B-s1, d0) – Flame-retardant Board made From Upcycled Fibre Waste From the Paper Industry – Honext Material (ES)
HONEXT® FR-B board (B-s1, d0) is a flame-retardant board made from 100 % upcycled industrial waste fibres from the paper industry. Thanks to innovations in biotechnology, paper sludge is upcycled – the previously “worthless” residue from paper making – to create a fully recyclable material, all without the use of resins. This lightweight and easy-to-handle board boasts high mechanical performance and stability, along with low thermal conductivity, making it perfect for various applications in all interior environments where fire safety is a priority. The material is non-toxic, with no added VOCs, ensuring safety for both people and the planet. A sustainable and healthy material for the built environment, it achieves Cradle-to-Cradle Certified GOLD, and Material Health CertificateTM Gold Level version 4.0 with a carbon-negative footprint. Additionally, it is verified in the Product Environmental Footprint.

LENZING™ Cellulosic Fibres for Glacier Protection – Lenzing (AT)
Glaciers are now facing an unprecedented threat from global warming. Synthetic fibre-based geotextiles, while effective in slowing down glacier melt, create a new environmental challenge: microplastics contaminating glacial environments. The use of such materials contradicts the very purpose of glacier protection, as it exacerbates an already critical environmental problem. Recognizing this problem, the innovative use of cellulosic LENZING™ fibres presents a pioneering solution. The Institute of Ecology, at the University of Innsbruck, together with Lenzing and other partners made first trials in 2022 by covering small test fields with LENZING™ fibre-based geotextiles. The results were promising, confirming the effectiveness of this approach in slowing glacier melt without leaving behind microplastic.

The RENU Jacket – Advanced Recycling for Cellulosic Textiles – Pangaia (UK) & Evrnu (US)
PANGAIA LAB was born out of a dream to reduce barriers between people and the breakthrough innovations in material science. In 2023, PANGAIA LAB launched the RENU Jacket, a limited edition product made from 100% Nucycl® – a technology that recycles cellulosic textiles by breaking them down to their molecular building blocks, and reforming them into new fibres. This process produces a result that is 100% recycled and 100% recyclable when returned to the correct waste stream – maintaining the strength of the fibre so it doesn’t need to be blended with virgin material.
Through collaboration with Evrnu, the PANGAIA team created the world’s first 100% chemically recycled denim jacket, replacing a material traditionally made from 100% virgin cotton. By incorporating Nucycl® into this iconic fabric construction, dyed with natural indigo, the teams have demonstrated that it’s possible to replace ubiquitous materials with this innovation.

Textiles Made from Easy-to-dye Biocelsol – VTT Technical Research Centre of Finland (FI)
One third of the textile industry’s wastewater is generated in dyeing and one fifth in finishing. But the use of chemically modified Biocelsol fibres reduces waste water. The knitted fabric is made from viscose and Biocelsol fibres and is only dyed after knitting. This gives the Biocelsol fibres a darker shade, using the same amount of dye and no salt in dyeing process. In addition, an interesting visual effect can be achieved. Moreover, less dye is needed for the darker colour tone in the finished textile and the possibility to use the salt-free dyeing is more environmentally friendly.
These special properties of man-made cellulosic fibres will reassert the fibres as a replacement for the existing fossil-based fibres, thus filling the demand for more environmentally friendly dyeing-solutions in the textile industry. The functionalised Biocelsol fibres were made in Finnish Academy FinnCERES project and are produced by wet spinning technique from the cellulose dope containing low amounts of 3-allyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl substituents. The functionality formed is permanent and has been shown to significantly improve the dyeability of the fibres. In addition, the functionalisation of Biocelsol fibres reduces the cost of textile finishing and dyeing as well as the effluent load.

A New Generation of Bio-based and Resource-efficient Fibre – TreeToTextile (SE)
TreeToTextile has developed a unique, sustainable and resource efficient fibre that doesn't exist on the market today. It has a natural dry feel similar to cotton and a semi-dull sheen and high drape like viscose. It is based on cellulose and has the potential to complement or replace cotton, viscose and polyester as a single fibre or in blends, depending on the application.
TreeToTextile Technology™ has a low demand for chemicals, energy and water. According to a third party verified LCA, the TreeToTextile fibre has a climate impact of 0.6 kg CO2 eq/kilo fibre. The fibre is made from bio-based and traceable resources and is biodegradable.

SGL Carbon relies on climate-friendly manufacturing processes in the production of its own carbon fibers. By using renewable energy, the carbon footprint of SGL fiber can be reduced by up to 50% compared to a conventional fiber.  

SGL carbon fiber is produced at the Lavradio (Portugal) and Moses Lake (USA) sites. When the Moses Lake site was selected in the 1990s, the use of hydropower as an energy source played a particularly decisive role. As a result, around 75,000 tonnes of CO₂ can be saved in Moses Lake by purchasing electricity from hydropower plants compared to a fossil fuel-based electricity mix.

As part of the consistent implementation of its climate strategy, SGL Carbon will be using a CO₂-neutral biomass system to generate energy from the beginning of 2024, which will make the production system, which was previously based on natural gas, more flexible and climate-friendly. At full capacity, the biomass system in Lavradio can save more than 90,000 tons of CO₂.

The raw material used is wood pellets, which are sourced from a radius of 250 kilometres via short transport routes.

The climate-friendly energy supply at the site in Moses Lake (USA) combined with the new biomass plant in Lavradio (Portugal) lead to a reduction in CO₂ emissions of up to 50% in the production of SGL's own carbon fibers compared to conventional fibers. With the investment in the biomass system, SGL Carbon is pursuing its climate strategy. The target is to save 50% CO₂ emissions by the end of 2025 compared to the base year 2019 and to be climate-neutral by the end of 2038. In the period 2019 to 2022, SGL Carbon has reduced its CO₂ emissions by 17%.

ITMA ASIA + CITME, Asia’s leading trade fair for textile machinery, took place in Shanghai with a considerable presence of VDMA member companies. The round about 40 exhibiting VDMA members covered nearly all different machinery chapters with a focus on spinning and manmade fibers, nonwovens, weaving, braiding, knitting & hosiery, finishing & dyeing and textile processing. They were part of a strong German presence with a total of around 60 German exhibitors – including non-machine manufacturers.

During a press conference on the first day of the show, Dr. Janpeter Horn, chairman of the VDMA Textile Machinery Association and managing director of August Herzog Maschinenfabrik expressed: “After years of cancelled or postponed trade fairs and travel restrictions, this year’s ITMA ASIA + CITME is the first edition of the show that can be attended not just by Chinese but by visitors from various countries and regions. The event is a good opportunity to meet customers and partners again in person and not just on a screen. ITMA ASIA + CITME provides a good chance to deepen the already good relations with China and other Asian countries further and to set-up new partnerships.”

Dr. Horn continued to present latest facts and figures about the German textile machinery industry. Between January and August 2023, the overall exports of textile machinery and accessories summed up to 1.7 billion euros, which was a slight decrease compared to the same period in 2022. The shipping to almost all major markets decreased between January and August: China: 440 million € (2022: 453 million €), Turkey: 205 million € (2022: 265 million €), USA: 177 million € (2022: 144 million €), India: 170 million € (2022: 228 million €).

Numerous VDMA member companies have production sites in the major Asian markets China and India and serve their customers in these countries from there. A latest VDMA business climate survey among the textile machinery companies in China showed, that 75% of all participants assessed their current business situation as either good (6%) or satisfactory (69%). For the coming quarter, 50% of the companies see the market to decline. Asked about the business situation during the next six months, 44% of the companies expect the market to remain stable, 56% expect the situation to become worse. This is also reflected in the HR of the companies: 63% expect the number of employees to remain unchanged.

The adoption of composite parts based on flax fibres by the Marine Industry continues to grow, with major OEMs as well as smaller shipyards now aiming to take advantage of the reduced carbon impact and impressive mechanical properties they can provide.

“Over the last ten or fifteen years, several innovative flax fibre boats have been built and the fibre has started to gain significant traction,” says Julie Pariset, Innovation & CSR Director at the Alliance for European Flax-Linen and Hemp. “In addition to the environmental benefits, manufacturers are realising significant technical and processing gains with flax fibre composites.”

“Flax is a very low-density fibre, with a high specific stiffness,” she explains. “It can be used to manufacture composite laminates with mechanical properties not dissimilar to typical E-glass composites and the coefficient of thermal expansion of a flax fibre epoxy part is also quite close to that of a carbon fibre part.” This allows the materials to work well in combined assemblies with carbon fibre composites and the flax parts are also highly impact resistant.

Flax fibres also provide acoustic and vibration damping in composite applications, as well as providing a warm and aesthetically pleasing appearance below decks.

ecoRacer30
As a member of the Alliance for European Flax-Linen and Hemp, Bcomp, headquartered in Fribourg, Switzerland, has this year been working with Northern Light Composites (nlcomp), based in Monfalcone, northern Italy, on the creation of what is billed as the first fully recyclable nine-metre-long sailing boat – the ecoRacer30.

The boat is based on nlcomp’s proprietary rComposite technology – a combination of thermoplastic resins and BComp’s ampliTex high-performance natural fibre reinforcement fabrics and patented powerRibs technology.

It was built in a collaborative effort with the help of Barcelona-based Magnani Yachts, which took care of the composite manufacturing, and Sangiorgio Marine, which provided technical assistance as the boat was being assembled at its shipyard in Genova, Italy.

Magnani Yachts has subsequently become the first shipyard to hold an rComposite license and others are now being encouraged to adopt the technology.

The second ecoracer30 is currently under construction and has already been sold and nlcomp is planning to build a fleet of eight of these boats in time to enter a series of regattas in the summer of 2025.

Flax 27 Daysailer
Greenboats, based in Bremen, Germany, is another specialist in building boats from natural fibre composites and has this year launched the Flax 27 daysailer.

The lower hull of this vessel is also made from Bcomp’s ampliTex technical fabrics in combination with a sandwich core of recycled PET bottles. Using a vacuum infusion process, the fibres were integrated with a plant-based epoxy resin in order to further reduce the CO₂ footprint of the vessel.

The light structure and modern shapes of the lower hull of the boat result in very fast, sharp and agile handling on the water.

Greenboats has also recently announced significant new backing from alliance member Groupe Depestele, which manages 13,000 hectares of flax land in Normandy, France.

Blue Nomad
A project in Switzerland has meanwhile proposed the use of flax fibre composites in solar-powered habitats designed for comfortable living on the oceans – as the world grapples with the frightening implications of climate change and rising sea levels.

As envisaged by students from Institut auf dem Rosenberg in St Gallen, Switzerland working with Denmark-based SAGA Space Architects, Blue Nomad structures would form modular blocks to establish large communities and oceanic farms.
 

The Lenzing Group has concluded a supply contract with the Austrian electricity producer WLK energy for the purchase of around 13 megawatts of wind power. Lenzing is thus not only underlining its commitment to climate protection and the energy transition, but is also making a long-term investment in a price-stable and diversified electricity supply. The contract has a term of 15 years and provides for supply from the new wind farm in Engelhartstetten from the first quarter of 2025.

The construction of the wind farm is a joint project involving several partners, including the operator and electricity supplier WLK energy, based in Untersiebenbrunn (Lower Austria). The total output of the wind farm with a total of eleven wind turbines will be around 45 megawatts. The share of around 13 megawatts, which will be produced exclusively for the needs of the Lenzing site (Upper Austria), corresponds to the average electricity requirements of around 10,000 households per year in Austria. The ground-breaking ceremony to mark the start of construction took place on November 09, 2023 with representatives from politics and business.

In 2019, Lenzing was the first fiber manufacturer to set itself the goal of reducing its CO2 emissions by 50 percent by 2030 and becoming carbon-neutral by 2050. This CO2 reduction target was recognized by the Science Based Targets Initiative. In 2022, Lenzing opened Upper Austria's largest open-space photovoltaic plant together with Verbund and also signed an electricity supply contract for photovoltaic energy with the green electricity producer Enery and Energie Steiermark.