From the Sector

The combination of high strength and rigidity with sustainability and a neutral carbon footprint makes flax the ideal raw material for natural fibre-reinforced plastics. vombaur offers composite textiles made of this natural fibre for the automotive, wind power, construction or sports industries and many other sectors.

Flax fibres are rigid and tear-proof. They have natural bactericidal properties, are virtually antistatic, stain resistant and easy to spin. Humans have taken advantage of these properties to manufacture robust, stain-resistant and lint-free textiles. Between the late 19^th and late 20^th centuries, cotton largely replaced natural fibres. Because flax can be grown in Europe and consumes less energy and water than cotton production, the material's importance is currently growing again, for both clothing and composites. Regional textile value added chains in Europe – flax makes them possible.

Ideal mechanical properties
vombaur makes the mechanical properties of flax usable for lightweight design. Because flax fibres are particularly rigid and tear-resistant, they ensure great stability in natural fibre-reinforced plastics (NFRPs). And thanks to their low density of 1.50 g/cm3, the fibres weigh virtually nothing. On top of this, fibre-reinforced plastics are less prone to splintering than glass fibre-reinforced plastics.

Excellent carbon footprint
The cultivation of flax binds CO₂ and the production of natural fibre-reinforced plastics (NFRPs) generates approximately one third less CO₂ emissions compared with conventional fibre-reinforced plastics. Energy consumption is substantially lower. This saves resources. The use of flax fibre tapes by vombaur in lightweight design applications also improves the product's carbon footprint and contributes to a secure, regional supply chain.

Recycling without impacting on quality
Flax offers another sustainability benefit: more recycling cycles than glass- or carbon fibre-reinforced plastics – without impacting on quality. Thermoplastic fibre-matrix prepregs are melted and reused in the recycling process. The natural fibres can be used in other products such as natural fibre-reinforced injection moulded parts.

Sustainable product developments for many industries
"Orthoses for high-performance sports, high-tech skis, wind turbines, components for the automotive industry or aerospace, but also modern window profiles – the application scope for our lightweight design flax tapes is amazingly diverse", as Carl Mrusek, Chief Sales Officer at vombaur explains. "After all, wherever flax tapes are used, three key properties come together: light weight, strength and sustainability".

With over 400 exhibitors, the fourth Istanbul Fashion Connection event from August 9-11, 2023, at the Istanbul Expo Center on 35,000 sqm was again successful.

With over 20,000 visitors from more than 125 countries, IFCO recorded an increase in visitors of over 30% compared to August last year. International visitors more than doubled, with the largest visitor groups coming from Asia and the Middle East at 33% each, Europe at 17%, Africa 11% and the Americas at 6%.

All retail channels were represented at the show, from large shopping mall and department store groups to wholesalers, international retail chains, multi-brand boutiques and online platforms.

Exhibitors
In six clearly segmented halls, more than 400 brands presented themselves on 35,000 sqm from womenswear, menswear, kidswear sportswear, denim, leather and fur.

The Core Istanbul
For the second time, the exclusive design area The Core Istanbul, originally launched as part of Istanbul Fashion Week, presented itself at IFCO. Among others, Arzu Kaprol, Ceren Ocak, Çiğdem Akın, Essin Barış, Ezgi Karayel, Fulyaİlkmen - F.ILKK, Mehmet Emiroğlu, Meltem Özbek, Mert Erkan, Merve Ulu - Kuela, Murat Aytulum, Nejla Güvenç - Nej, Özlem Erkan, Selin Küçüksöz, Tuba Ergin joined the show. Menswear was also represented with Emre Erdemoğlu, Seydullah Yılmaz - SYHZ Wear and Yakup Biçer - Y Plus.

The Exclusive Area
Leading Turkish retail brands, already internationally active, showed in The Exclusive Area such as B&G Store, Climber BC, Damat, Giovane Gentile, Hatemoğlu, Ipekyol, Kayra, Kiğılı, Lee Cooper, Lufian, Jakamen, Naramaxx and convinced with their high quality, sustainable and fashionable products, which were in great demand among international buyers. Jakamen opened the IFCO Shows on the first day of the fair with its latest spring / summer collection for 2024.

FashionIst
With its own catwalk, the occasion fashion section FashionIst for women and men featured thirty leading brands and showed a cross-section of the latest designs in evening fashion with their innovative colors and dynamic styles. Daily fashion shows informed visitors about the latest trends.

B2B Match Making
The B2B Match Making at IFCO took place in speed dating mode and was well received. Exhibitors were efficiently networked with buyers from all over the world such as Inditex from Spain, Walmart, Quicksilver, Teddy Fresh or Wilbo from the USA, Sainsbury's from the UK, Cihuah from Mexico, the Apparel Group and Safari Group from the United Arab Emirates, Ria Miranda from Indonesia, Hi Style and Zalora from Malaysia, Musinsa from South Korea, Ackermans from South Africa etc.

IFCO February 2024
For the next date of IFCO (7.-10. February, 2024), the organizers expect more than 600 companies. The participation of international fashion companies is to be expanded, for which IFCO provides the ideal springboard into the European and Asian markets.

Spinnova has decided to evaluate its existing strategy to prioritise areas that in the short- to medium-term deliver the fastest time to positive cashflow generation and that create the most value for the company’s stakeholders.
 

The company expects to conclude the assessment of its strategy in the coming months, after which the results will be presented in more detail including key actions and any changes to medium- and long-term business targets. Financial guidance for full year 2023 is unchanged.

Spinnova’s unique sustainable technology is a key differentiator. To recognize the value of its technology offering, the company has decided to review opportunities to expand the licensing of its technology to new customers. In the future, Spinnova sees great potential in developing circular raw materials such as textile waste and agricultural waste, as well as recycled SPINNOVA® fibre. Initial tests show that refining these raw materials into micro fibrillated cellulose (MFC) may be more efficient than refining other raw materials Spinnova has worked with. The company has received significant interest from customers wanting to build plants that convert multiple circular raw materials into SPINNOVA® fibre.

Together with Suzano, Spinnova is gathering the learnings from the first Woodspin plant to support the decision making for the next Woodspin factory investment. At the same time Spinnova continues to further develop the technology concept to reduce capital expenditure per tonne of fibre produced compared to the first Woodspin plant. While Suzano develops its MFC process it is expected that the first Woodspin facility will mainly be used for R&D to test new MFC batches and that commercial production volumes will be limited in the short term. The market opportunity and ambition level with Suzano to scale Woodspin’s production capacity remains unchanged

Spinnova will continue to have the option to invest into all future Woodspin and Respin plants, as per the respective joint venture agreements. The company will evaluate whether it participates in these investments based on the value it creates for Spinnova’s shareholders compared to other opportunities to invest Spinnova’s capital. Regardless of whether Spinnova invests its own capital into future plants, Spinnova will continue to be the exclusive technology provider to Woodspin and Respin, and they will continue to be important technology customers of Spinnova.

BW Packaging, Barry-Wehmiller’s global team of packaging professionals, announces that Jeff Journey has joined the company as the Vice President of Aftermarket. In his new role, he will work with BW Packaging divisional aftermarket leaders and digital innovation teams to drive strategic plans that leverage technology, tools and business process optimization to create new value for customers.

Journey also will review BW Packaging’s existing portfolio of aftermarket products and services —including the rapid delivery of spare and replacement parts, customer and field service programs, and operator training (in-house and onsite) — and will determine how best to maximize these solutions.

Journey brings a wealth of expertise to his new position. Recently, he served as a key leader at Thermo Fisher Scientific’s Life Sciences group, spearheading strategy, innovation, marketing and sales for the $300M-plus global service and support business. Under his guidance, Thermo Fisher underwent a successful digital transformation of its service model, resulting in improved instrument uptime and service contract revenue.

adidas revealed the Official Match Balls for the 2023/24 UEFA Champions League and the UEFA Women’s Champions League.

Set on a metallic silver background, the men’s iteration of the Official Match Ball integrates a single letter from the instantly recognisable chorus lyric – ‘THE CHAMPIONS’ - onto each of the 12 stars, in an opulent calligraphy style. Visual representations of the musical tones of the song interject the stars, in striking royal purple, red and blue - colours specifically chosen to represent the footballing royalty competing for the coveted UEFA Champions League trophy.

The introduction of a bespoke anthem for the UEFA Women’s Champions League in the 2021/22 season, marked the start of a new dawn for the tournament. In honour of that moment, the new design incorporates the lyrics of the song in two of the ball’s eye-catching star panels – creating a unique circular text pattern in bright orange. The remaining ten stars feature a wavy purple and pink print, curated using the same words from the anthem, but significantly enlarged to create an abstract and attention-grabbing look.

The balls are optimised to cope with the demands of the modern game, incorporating a range of adidas performance technology – including a PRISMA surface texture which offers Europe’s finest players precision on the ball. The outer texture coating, found on all UEFA Champions League and UEFA Women’s Champions League Official Match Balls, offers secure grip and control on the ball while the thermally bonded seamless construction ensures the balls retain optimum shape to deliver ultimate performance on the pitch.

The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) officially started the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD) Alignment Assessment process for GOTS' version 7.0. This involvement illustrates GOTS' ongoing efforts to align with the international framework for responsible garment and footwear supply chain due diligence.

An Assessment for Greater Impact
The OECD Alignment Assessment is a three-stage process that includes a Standards Assessment, an Implementation Assessment as well as a Credibility Assessment. As GOTS enters the Standard Assessment phase, it effectively showcases its dedication to sustainable practices, in line with the OECD Due Diligence Guidance. This process, supported by the German Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development, began in July 2023 and is expected to complete in January 2024.

The Role of the Due Diligence Criteria
The GOTS Due Diligence Criteria provide a framework for companies to proactively address potential or existing risks to human rights and the environment. This initiative lies at the core of GOTS' role as a trendsetter, paving the way for responsible business practices that will shape the future. Ruslan Alyamkin, Responsible for Standard Development and Implementation (Social Responsibility) at GOTS, emphasised the transformative power of these criteria: "The Due Diligence Criteria are not just guidelines, they are a powerful tool for real change. They empower companies to make informed and ethical decisions, helping to shape a textile industry that respects human rights and cares for our planet".

Emerging Regulatory Requirements: Navigating Human Rights and Environmental Due Diligence Obligations
As global legislation increasingly emphasises respect for human rights in business operations, GOTS remains a support tool for companies navigating this evolving landscape. Legislation such as Germany's Supply Chain Act (LkSG), France's Vigilance Act, Norway's Transparency Act, the Dutch Child Labour Due Diligence Act, and the UK Modern Slavery Act underscores the crucial need for rigorous due diligence in assessing business impacts on human rights and the environment. Moreover, the European Commission adopted a proposal for a Directive on corporate sustainability due diligence (CSDDD), which signals the imminent consideration of mandatory human rights and environmental due diligence.

With the recent version of GOTS Version 7.0, textile companies gain access to a six-step due diligence process, enabling them to identify, assess, and mitigate adverse impacts throughout their supply chains. This positions GOTS as a tool in showcasing compliance with due diligence obligations outlined in the draft EU CSDDD as well as in national laws.

The Lenzing Group, a world-leading provider of specialty fibers for the textile and nonwoven industries, has been awarded platinum status in the EcoVadis CSR rating. The rating comprehensively covers the four most important practices in the area of corporate social responsibility: environment, fair working conditions and human rights, as well as ethics and sustainable procurement.

For the third time, Lenzing has been awarded Platinum status for its sustainability performance by EcoVadis, a leading international provider of sustainability ratings for companies. This puts Lenzing in the top one percent of companies worldwide rated by EcoVadis.

EcoVadis has become the world's largest and most trusted provider of corporate sustainability ratings since its founding in 2007, creating a global network of more than 100,000 rated companies worldwide. The methodological framework assesses companies' policies, actions and activities, as well as their published reports, related to the environment, labor and human rights, ethics and sustainable procurement.

In line with its sustainability strategy “Naturally positive”, the Lenzing Group has set ambitious targets in each of its core strategic areas to further strengthen its path from a linear to a circular economy model. Lenzing reports annually on the corresponding implementation measures and the progress made in its sustainability report. This level of commitment and transparency was particularly positively highlighted by EcoVadis in its assessment. The rating provider also emphasized the Lenzing Group's comprehensive measures in the areas of environment, ethics, and labor and human rights.

• Revenue of EUR 1.25 bn and EBITDA of EUR 136.5 mn in the first half of 2023
• EBITDA and net result for the period significantly improved compared with the first quarter of 2023
• Cost-cutting program and measures to strengthen sales activities being implemented as planned
• Liquidity position strengthened by successful capital increase and extension of credit terms
• Production of TENCEL™ brand modal fibers successfully launched in China

The business performance of the Lenzing Group, a leading global supplier of specialty fibers for the textile and nonwoven industries, largely reflected the subdued market trends in the first half of 2023. After the market environment deteriorated significantly in the second half of 2022, signs of recovery were evident during the first and second quarters of 2023 in terms of both raw material and energy costs as well as demand. Textile fibers recorded improving demand, and business with nonwoven fibers and with dissolving wood pulp proved to be very stable.

Outlook
The war in Ukraine and the more restrictive monetary policy pursued by many central banks in order to combat inflation are expected to continue to influence global economic activity. The IMF warns that risks remain elevated overall and forecasts growth of 3 percent for both 2023 and 2024. The currency environment is expected to remain volatile in the regions of relevance to Lenzing.

This market environment continues to weigh on the consumer climate and on sentiment in the industries relevant to Lenzing. Recently, however, the outlook brightened somewhat according to a global survey by the ITMF.*

In the trend-setting market for cotton, signs are emerging of a further buildup of stocks in the current 2022/23 crop season. Initial forecasts also see a further buildup of stocks in 2023/24, albeit to a lesser extent.

However, despite signs of recovery in both demand and raw material and energy costs, earnings visibility remains limited overall.

Lenzing is fully on track with the implementation of its reorganization and cost-cutting program. These and further measures are aimed at positioning Lenzing in the best possible way for the expected market recovery.

In structural terms, Lenzing continues to anticipate growth in demand for environmentally responsible fibers for the textile and clothing industry as well as the hygiene and medical sectors. As a consequence, Lenzing is very well positioned with its “Better Growth” strategy and plans to continue driving growth with specialty fibers as well as its sustainability goals, including the transformation from a linear to a circular economy model.

The successful implementation of the key projects in Thailand and Brazil as well as the investment projects in China and Indonesia will further strengthen Lenzing’s positioning in this respect.

Taking into consideration the aforementioned factors and assuming a further market recovery in the current financial year, the Lenzing Group continues to expect EBITDA in a range between EUR 320 mn and EUR 420 mn for 2023.

*Source: ITMF, 21st Global Textile Industry Survey, July 2023

In the printing industry, direct-to-film technology is having a transformative impact on the apparel decoration space. It provides a simple and affordable garment printing process that facilitates vibrant, dynamic, full-colour designs with a durable print. It opens up opportunities for digital print service providers (PSPs) to expand their product offerings in the textile industry, their network of potential customers and expand the range of fabrics they can print on.

Direct-to-film vs. Screen Printing
Direct-to-film printing is the process of digitally printing directly onto a special transfer film sheet. The printed film is subsequently sprinkled with a hot-melt powder and heated. Once the transfer sheet is cured and dried, it can be heat-pressed onto a variety of fabrics to create premium transferred designs for customised merchandising, sportswear, and an array of other promotional applications for the textile market. Compared with traditional screen printing, the plate creation required for that process is far too time-consuming. Not only this, but it does not match direct-to-film’s ability to produce vivid colours and quality details such as shapes, lettering, and motifs often sought after in the promotional and merchandising space for bespoke textiles.

The Mimaki TxF150-75
Mimaki’s first direct-to-film inkjet printer is the TxF150-75, a fitting extension to the 150 series, with a maximum printing width of 80cm. Offering a stable printing plotter, the model’s built-in ink circulation system and degassed ink pack are resolutions to common direct-to-film challenges such as poor ink ejection and white ink clogging. The new printer also includes core Mimaki features including NCU (Nozzle Check Unit) and NRS (Nozzle Recovery System) for stable, uninterrupted print production. Operating in harmony with the textile printer itself is Mimaki’s ECO PASSPORT by OEKO-TEX® certified water-based pigment textile inks, formulated especially for the TxF150-75. Coupled with Mimaki’s RasterLink7 RIP software, users are offered end-to-end oversight and efficiency from creative design to final product.

In addition, and in line with Mimaki’s collaborative approach to meeting customer needs, Adkins has developed an 80cm wide powder shaker cure unit to complete this ‘A brand’ direct-to-film printing solution. By offering the printer and post-processing unit at 80cm wide, customers can print larger garments with less waste and quicker production times, making the process much more cost effective.

Ada Hefetz, an Israel-based wedding dress designer, has introduced a new attention-grabbing collection with intricate, showstopping elements produced using Stratasys’ advanced direct-to-textile 3D printing technology. Showcased recently at Milan Design Week, the three unique dresses are based on Hefetz’s Flower of Life theme and were produced using Stratasys’ 3DFashion™ technology as part of her latest series celebrating matrimonial union, the circle of life, and design.

Known for designing haute couture bridal dresses combining vintage style and classic modern chic, Ada Hefetz is renowned for constantly pushing the boundaries of design. This is her first completed project using 3D printing.

The wedding dresses feature complex geometrical shapes, depicting the ‘Flower of Life’, a sacred geometry dating back to ancient Egypt. The intricate pattern is composed of overlapping circles that intersect to form flowers, which Ada Hefetz has combined with her design of a lily to symbolize the union between two individuals and the circle of life. The inspiring design uses Stratasys’ translucent VeroVivid™ resin material with Stratasys’ J850™ TechStyle™ 3D printer, which can be printed in over 500,000 unique colors with varying levels of flexibility, simulating different textures and finishes.

Ada Hefetz’s Flower of Life-themed 3D printed wedding dresses are currently on display at Milan’s D-House Urban Laboratory, which is owned and managed by Dyloan, the leading Italian manufacturer serving the high-end fashion sector.