From the Sector

As one of the driving forces helping to create a fully circular fashion industry, ISKO has partnered with Swedish research and development company MoRe Research, a part of RISE Research Institutes of Sweden, to investigate and develop new, sustainable technologies made from cellulosic-based materials, derived from waste textiles, for the company’s 25,000+ range of products. It is hoped that this research will also help make the production of cellulose-based materials more sustainable.

The work with MoRe Research feeds into ISKO’s Responsible Innovation™ strategy and will link with various sustainability projects the company is working on. For example, ISKO recently signed an agreement with HKRITA to license its Green Machine – a unique technology that fully separates and recycles cotton and polyester blends at scale.

ISKO will leverage MoRe Research!s expertise and resources to find ways of repurposing the clean and toxic-free cellulose powders that are created from the decomposed cotton, as well as the recycled polyester and reintegrate this back into fabric production. By using all of the outputs from the recycling of textiles back into textiles, the prospect of a closed-loop system becomes more feasible.

The investment in this new technology is the latest in ISKO’s ongoing drive for advancements in sustainability. As part of the company’s R-TWO™ program ISKO is also working to develop fabrics with a guaranteed minimum +50% GRS (Global Recycle Standard) recycled content blend. This will significantly reduce the carbon and water footprint of a fabric, as well as make it easy to trace a garment’s sustainable journey step-by-step from the beginning of the supply chain through to the end product.

• Renewably Sourced Materials to Help Replace Petrochemicals in Apparel for a Healthier Planet

lululemon athletica inc. (NASDAQ:LULU) announced a multi-year collaboration with sustainable materials leader Genomatica to bring renewably-sourced, bio-based materials into lululemon’s products. This represents lululemon’s first-ever equity investment in a sustainable materials company and Genomatica’s largest partnership within the retail industry. Together, the two companies will create a lower-impact, plant-based nylon to replace conventional nylon, which is the largest volume of synthetic material currently used to make lululemon products.

Genomatica uses biotechnology and fermentation to convert plant-based ingredients into widely used chemical building blocks, like those used to make nylon. These building blocks are converted to pellets and yarns, and the companies will be working closely with lululemon’s fabric supply chain to incorporate this material into future products. Through this collaboration, the companies seek to create positive change within the $22B global nylon market by building more sustainable supply chains.  

In light of recent Covid-19 cases in China, the Autumn Editions of Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics, Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles and Yarn Expo will be rescheduled to 9 – 11 October 2021. The fairs were originally due to take place at the end of August at the National Exhibition and Convention Center (Shanghai).

Ms Wendy Wen, Senior General Manager of Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd explained: “To comply with the government guidelines for pandemic containment and following discussions with our stakeholders, we have made the decision to postpone the fairs from their original August timing. To allow our exhibitors and buyers as much time as possible to plan ahead, we have already confirmed new dates with the fairground for the three concurrent fairs: 9 – 11 October.”

“I would like to thank the participants of all three fairs for their understanding and ongoing support as we continue to operate in uncertain times. We remain dedicated to providing a quality international trading platform for three sectors for the autumn / winter sourcing season, and our overseas suppliers will still be able to participate through our hybrid exhibition scheme if they are unable to be in Shanghai in-person.”

Exhibitors or visitors with any queries about these fairs should email textile@hongkong.messefrankfurt.com, or visit the fairs’ respective websites:
•    Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics: https://intertextileapparel.hk.messefrankfurt.com/
•    Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles: https://intertextilehome.hk.messefrankfurt.com/
•    Yarn Expo: www.yarnexpochina.com

Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics is co-organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd; the Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT; and the China Textile Information Centre. The co-organisers of Yarn Expo are Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd and the Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT. Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles is co-organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd; the Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT; and the China Home Textile Association (CHTA).

ISKO, a global, leading premium denim ingredient brand, announced its participation in The Jeans Redesign – a project, established by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation’s Make Fashion Circular initiative, to encourage and guide the denim industry to transform the way jeans are made and move towards a circular economy for fashion.

ISKO meets the requirements for participation set by The Jeans Redesign guidelines and has made a commitment that 85% of its entire fabric production will consist of recycled material content made from pre-consumer and post-consumer recycled materials. This production will be independently verified by Textile Exchange audit bodies.

This achievement is made possible using ISKO’s R-TWO™ technology which is created through a patented and exclusive yarn spinning technique that retains the unique properties and benefits found in ISKO’s statement fabrics. ISKO’s R-TWO™ is the embodiment of its Responsible Innovation™ mindset and aligns with the principles of a circular economy espoused by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation – to ensure durability, material health, recyclability and traceability. R-TWO™ positions ISKO as a sustainability leader and enables it to exceed the project guidelines to create denim that is designed to be used more, made to be made again and made from safe and recycled or renewable inputs.

Iluna Group comes back to Milano Unica with a great and important goal: to relaunch the qualities and dimensions of sustainability by going beyond the ingredient.

Iluna’s new path, which was born in a moment when the market seems to speak about “fragility”, begins with the investment in the renewal of machines, which allow it to fly ever higher in terms of high-tech developments, quality, definition, effects of yarns and patterns. The journey into the new dimension of responsible quality continues with ad hoc developments in the field of GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certified recycled yarns, aimed at unprecedented effects both in look, in performance and in the hands of fabrics. Including cord yarn, shiny threads and an expansion of the range of GRS yarns, previously available only opaque. The cord yarn is a precious yarn with a ROICA™ EF premium stretch yarn core, GRS certified and developed with 50% of pre-consumer waste materials content - double, covered with an equally recycled shiny thread; the bright and translucent is instead to add brilliant effects so far not possible with a GRS yarn.

The printing processes are also born from this constant search for innovation towards new materials and new techniques, becoming more and more sustainable: Global Recycle Standard (GRS)-certified sublimation printing and register printing carrying Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) certification. This one overlap exactly on the design and color the details, reaching where the dye cannot reach.

Diversification has become essential in today’s competitive market and the fragility of the moments experienced in 2020 was the stimulus to return to being here again, to return to action. Flexibility is the watchword today, along with research. And Iluna has managed to go further: starting from the ingredients at the base of the materials, last year launched a collection with natural dyes made with GOTS certified plant-based dyes, up to proposing magnificent prints with extraordinary effects for this edition of the Milanese fair.

The three dimensions of sustainability, design and innovation are thus finally linked thanks to valuable partnerships with expert and excellent reference companies that have allowed these new developments and these unique results thanks to advanced technologies designed specifically for Iluna, which is today the only company to offer ingredients, natural colors and prints, all three strictly certified.

Circular fashion and textile technology group Infinited Fiber Company has secured investments totaling 30 million euros in its latest financing round completed on June 30. The round also brought Infinited Fiber Company new investors, including sportswear company adidas, Invest FWD A/S, which is BESTSELLER’s investment arm for sustainable fashion, and investment company Security Trading Oy. Among the existing investors contributing to this round of financing were fashion retailer H&M Group, who was the lead investor, investment company Nidoco AB, and Sateri, the world’s largest viscose producer and a member of the RGE group of companies.

This securement of new funding follows Infinited Fiber Company’s April announcement of plans to build a flagship factory in Finland in response to the strong growth in demand from global fashion and textile brands for its regenerated textile fiber Infinna™. The factory, which will use household textile waste as raw material, is expected to be operational in 2024 and to have an annual production capacity of 30,000 metric tons. The new funding enables Infinited Fiber Company to carry out the work needed to prepare for the flagship factory investment and to increase production at its pilot facilities in the years leading to 2024.

“We are really happy to welcome our new investors and grateful for the continued support from our older investors,” said Infinited Fiber Company co-founder and CEO Petri Alava. “These new investments enable us to proceed at full speed with the pre-engineering, environmental permits, and the recruitment of the skilled professionals needed to take our flagship project forward. We can now also boost production at our pilot facilities so that we can better serve our existing customers and grow our customer-base in preparation for both our flagship factory and for the future licensees of our technology.”

H&M Group is one of Infinited Fiber Company’s earliest investors. They first invested in Infinited Fiber Company in 2019.

H&M Group has also signed a multiyear sales deal with Infinited Fiber Company to secure its access to agreed amounts of Infinna from the planned flagship factory.

New investor BESTSELLER has struck a similar sales deal with Infinited Fiber Company.

In addition to strong interest by global fashion leaders, the technology has significant promise for major textile fiber producers. Allen Zhang, President of Sateri, said: “Sateri is excited to continue to invest in and collaborate with Infinited Fiber Company as part of our long-term commitment towards closed-loop, circular and climate-positive cellulosic fibers. This financing round marks a major milestone for our collaboration in scaling up next-generation fiber solutions.”

Infinited Fiber Company’s flagship plant preparations are also proceeding on other fronts. Several Nordic and international investment banks have given Infinited Fiber Company proposals on the financing options for the investment.

Infinited Fiber Company’s technology turns cellulose-based raw materials, like cotton-rich textile waste, into Infinna, a unique, premium-quality regenerated textile fiber with the natural, soft look and feel of cotton. Infinna is biodegradable and contains no microplastics, and at the end of their life, garments made with it can be recycled in the same process together with other textile waste.

“LA FORMA”, a fashion film led by talented students from Istituto Secoli supported by exceptional companies such as Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei who confirms once more its commitment toward education and valuable long-lasting relationship with Istituto Secoli.

From June 30th until July 2nd 2021, Pitti Uomo  returns physical and Bemberg™ shows up with 6 menswear outfits belonging to the cutting-edge collections created by young talents of Istituto Secoli.

100% Bemberg™ fabrics, produced by Tessitura Grisotto, has been used in printed version for the creation of these 6 looks comprising of shirts, padded outerwear, and quilted parts. Bemberg™ is a fiber that comes from the smart and technologically advanced transformation of cotton linter materials and converted through a traceable and transparent process. Its uniqueness comes from its exceptional qualitative characteristics such as the magnificent touch - which is soft and smooth as silk, like a second skin - brilliance and radiance. Bemberg™ also has antistatic and breathable performances and the fiber is biodegradable and compostable too.

Collaboration with fashion institute, such as Istituto Secoli, for Bemberg™ it is very important, especially in the name of the close and interconnected relationship between education and the world of Industry.  A support that is also important and continuous for Asahi Kasei as part of an intense commitment toward new generations.

SCOTT Racing Team confirms for the year 2021 its historical partners for the uniform: Rosti, Sitip and ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei, thanks to which it was possible to create the first sustainable biking uniform.
A partnership born in 2019 and celebrated at Ispo 2020, which has brought together leading companies for responsible innovation: Rosti for the style and manufacturing, Sitip for technical fabrics made from GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certified recycled yarns including ROICA™ EF, the certified recycled stretch premium ingredient produced by Asahi Kasei.

The world’s leading denim ingredient brand is proud to announce it has contributed its considerable denim expertise to prestigious fashion school, Institut Français de la Mode’s (IFM) new online course, Fashion Sustainability: Shaping Fashion’s Future.

Developed as part of a partnership with IFM and Kering luxury group and led by Andrée-Anne Lemieux, Sustainability Professor and Head of the IFM-Kering Sustainability Chair, the 10-week course will examine the importance of sustainability in fashion and invites students and experienced fashion professionals to learn how they can play a role in shaping a sustainable future for fashion.

Launched on 17 May, the course covers the history and values of sustainable development and how this relates to the fashion industry, as well as teaches the practicalities of creating and executing a CSR and sustainability strategy. As part of the course, ISKO has created a video presentation which gives an insight into its Responsible Innovation™ strategy and how it approaches its role as a leader in sustainability for denim production. Led by ISKO’s Global Field Marketing Manager, Elena Faleschini, the presentation explores how innovation along with the cooperation and participation of everyone in the denim industry can help make the production of denim more responsible.

“The Fashion Sustainability course gives students and industry professionals the knowledge and tools to become the change makers we need in the industry. We are honored to contribute to the course and be able to share our vast experience working to build a more sustainability industry for the future,” says Faleschini.

Corona hat die deutsche Schuhbranche schwer getroffen. Das Marktvolumen für Schuhe sank 2020 im Vergleich zum Vorjahr mit minus 9,2 Prozent auf den tiefsten Stand seit 10 Jahren. In Pandemiezeiten mit Lockdown, Homeoffice und Homeschooling kauften die Deutschen weniger bzw. preisorientierter. Nicht alle Schuhsegmente traf es gleichermaßen: Für Modelle für Zuhause sowie solche für die wenigen Freizeitmöglichkeiten wie Running oder Wandern wurden weniger drastische Einbrüche verzeichnet.

Größter Verlierer war der Schuh-Facheinzelhandel, der Corona-bedingt nach der Verkaufssaison Frühjahr/Sommer 2020, auch im Herbst/Winter 2020/21 auf einem großen Teil der eingekauften Ware sitzen blieb. Konkret gab der Marktanteil des Schuh-Facheinzelhandels im Corona-Jahr 2020 gegenüber 2019 mit minus 7,7 Prozentpunkten überproportional nach. Dagegen erwies sich der Online-Handel mit 25 Prozent Umsatzplus als Krisengewinner der Pandemie.

Einblicke in das Kaufverhalten der Deutschen gibt die Kooperationsstudie „Branchen-REPORT Schuhe 2021“ mit der Auswertung von mehr als 1,7 Millionen Online-Bestellungen, die im Zeitraum Januar 2019 bis März 2021 über das Portal Schuhe24.de getätigt wurden. Darin werfen die Marktforscher auch einen Blick in die Schuhzukunft bis 2028. Anhand wissenschaftlicher Methoden werden dabei vier Modelle für die Branche aufgezeigt. Danach winkt der Branche beispielsweise im optimistischen Szenario schon 2022 ein Umsatz, der das Marktvolumen von 2019 sogar übersteigt. Ein Trend, der explizit für Damenschuhe dargestellt wird, während die Perspektiven für Herren- und Kinderschuhe weniger dynamisch ausfallen.