From the Sector

"Datacenter in a box" is the new powerful, flexible and secure IT infrastructure solution for the textile industry of the future

Remscheid/Berlin – Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Segment Industrie 4.0 solutions for the production of polyester, nylon and polypropylene are based on the digitalization of the production landscape and the intelligent processing of the flood of data generated in this way. In the future, the segment will offer its customers a new powerful, flexible and, above all, secure IT infrastructure. The "Datacenter in a box" was presented for the first time at the OpenStack Summit in Berlin, Germany, to a broad specialist audience. The compact datacenter works on the basis of the open operating system OpenStack, which enables virtual computing in a secure private cloud environment.

Externally, the datacenter looks unspectacular: The box contains standard hardware such as server rack, network components, batteries for reliability, monitoring sensors and a few more things. But what counts are the inner values. The Open Source software OpenStack consists of many different services and allows the virtualization of a large pool of computing, storage and network resources in a flexible, scalable private cloud. This brings two central advantages: On the one hand, virtual operation reduces costs and simplifies configuration, adaptation and expansion of the IT infrastructure today and tomorrow. On the other hand, long-cherished wishes for high data protection are fulfilled, because a private cloud maintains secure, highly encrypted data connections away from the World Wide Web.

"The functional diversity of a cloud, operation and hardware in one's own four walls at the same time – our customers immediately understood these advantages" reports Mario Arcidiacono, specialist for Business Intelligence & Data Warehouse at the Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Segment. The IT architecture also guarantees infrastructure management without downtime, the system and virus protection are automatically kept up to date at all times. Another major advantage is the scalability of the hardware and software, which can be adapted to changing requirements.

OpenStack Summit: Project example with yarn manufacturer from Vietnam presented

With these trump cards and a project example, the Group segment confidently presented itself to a genuine specialist audience in mid-November. At this year's OpenStack Summit in Berlin, where thousands of cloud professionals met, Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Segment CEO Georg Stausberg presented the customer installation at Century Synthetic Fibre Corporation, which supplies many well-known sporting goods manufacturers. The Vietnamese producer of high-quality yarns not only uses the new datacenter, but also the connection to the new "Common Service Platform (CSP)" of the Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Segment as well as an innovative new dashboard solution in prototype status. In this case, the digital instrument panel supports employee communication during shift changes in the yarn factory and introduces agile methods into the work process. The board visualizes the progress of central key figures and operating parameters from the current production process. Based on this, the employees of the successive shifts can now exchange important process and quality information and possible instructions for action within a few minutes in a structured stand-up meeting. "For the customer this means an immediate improvement of the processes, and he can significantly increase the efficiency and quality of his employees' work," assures Joerg Gross, Senior Manager in the IT-architecture team at the Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Segment.

New IT-basis for the Plant Operation Center (POC) already successful established on the market

The fixed connection to the "Common Service Platform (CSP)" of the Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Segment plays a pioneering role in such solutions. This enables services and software updates to be provided smoothly, quickly and automatically. In this way, service applications can transform collected data into instructions or automated commands to secure and improve processes. For example, the secure availability of management solutions such as the Plant Operation Center (POC) for process monitoring can be increased and possible errors can be rectified very quickly. The new digital solution AIM4DTY (AIM = Artificial Intelligence Manufacturing), which was unveiled at the ITMA ASIA + CITME 2018 in Shanghai, China, a few weeks ago, can also be implemented in this way. AIM4DTY uses methods of machine learning, determines probable causes of errors in texturing and helps to improve quality during production.

Launch at ITMA Barcelona 2019

The Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Segment offers such remote-supported services on request. Data will therefore only be transferred to the “Common Service Platform (CSP)” with the customer's consent. In addition, all data is processed in accordance with the new European General Data Protection Regulation (GDPR) and all other international data protection standards. Against this backdrop, the Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Segment plans to provide its datacenter with graded or customer-specific solutions: from complete service to provision with customer training for its own operations. After initial practical experience with several pilot customers, the segment intends to launch its offering on the market next year and officially present it to the textile industry at ITMA 2019 in Barcelona, Spain.

The brand has been invited to present the SS2019 @ Budapest Fashion Week on November 14th, 2018

For the third consecutive year, the Italian brand Zerobarracento was selected to embody the excellence of our country at the Budapest Fashion Week. On November 14th, Zerobarracento will show on runway S/S 2019. The concept of connection to a fashion garment, and the idea of creating pieces to last is fundamental to this brand. 0 means: zero waste, reduced pollution, and reduced emissions. 100 means: 100% quality, Made in Italy, sustainability and transparency of the production. Patterns are developed with zero-waste techniques, that eliminates textile waste at the design stage, adopting a zero-waste design approach reduces textile waste and the demand on natural resources. The pieces are 100% made in Italy, created with premium sustainable and traceable materials.

Camilla Carrara, CEO and designer di Zerobarracento, describes the collection as follows: "garments are created with the GOTS certified Bacx™ by Centro Seta organic silks sourced from C.L.A.S.S. e.commerce and the Newlife™ transformed polyester. Shapes and colours were inspired by a Malaysian trip: simplicity and nature are blended giving life to saturated colours".

• At Kingpins Show Amsterdam (24-25 October) the new “Committed Accessories” dedicated to denim take centre stage.

For the appointment with the exhibition dedicated to denim Metalbottoni focuses on its new range of increasingly green accessories which have captured the attention of the northern European brands most attentive to sustainability in the world of jeans and elsewhere. A range of proposals which, in recent months, has progressed remarkably, following the rules established by the corporate responsibility protocol called NO IMPACT.

This is a responsible approach underlined by the promise “Committed Accessories”, but also a strategic choice with a view to approaching those markets which so far have appeared to be most keen on the subject, for example northern Europe, Benelux and the United States, California in particular. This means that Metalbottoni is acting with increasing assertiveness on those scenarios where it has been present for a long time, in order to increase the segments depth, intercepting new ones, thanks to its wide-ranging eco-compatible proposal.

NO IMPACT: “Committed Accessories” expanded

It is the constant search for sustainable innovation that reveals the extent of the progress made over the past few months by Metalbottoni. For the Kingpins Show exhibition, there are many novelties in store from the company, extending its range in terms of sustainability. Firstly, there is the new MONSTER line eco-processing, special for pure denim, which – apart from metal – includes new material solutions developed through high-profile collaborations.

Also the LEATHER ACCESSORIES line is extending its range of sustainable materials. The line of tags and rear waistband labels is enhanced through interpretations based on two new eco-friendly materials: recycled jacron and cork. For denim designed to be 100% green, also in accessories. Sustainable proposals are increasingly integrated throughout the Metalbottoni range, for example the new glossy and satin finishing developed for the line LABORA on exclusive metal accessories.

Partnerships with brands from northern Europe: Bik Bok and Kings of Indigo

One of the most important collaboration in sustainable fashion is the one with the Norwegian brand Bik Bok. The brand that was founded in 1973 dedicated to young women, today offer accessible trend driven fashion through a network of over 200 single-brand stores in Norway, Sweden, Finland and Austria. The brand has since 2017 chosen to use only BCI (Better Cotton Initiative) certified cotton for their in house premium denim brand Never Denim. For Never Denim Metalbottoni has realized a series of jeans buttons and personalized rivets, all entirely produced according to the NO IMPACT protocol; which means recycled raw materials, no use of chemical agents, through processing and machinery that minimize the use of water and electricity, resulting 100% from photovoltaic panels. All these features are part of a capsule developed for the new AW 2018 collection for Never Denim entirely made with Fair Trade certified cotton. Thanks to this project, the No Impact becomes an integral part of a collection that is aimed at a very large, young and aware public.

Another important brand which has chosen the new NO IMPACT metal accessories is Kings Of Indigo, the Dutch denim mill which is presenting top-quality jeans, inspired by traditional American style, combined with Japanese attention to detail, which today has as many 250 authorised dealers in 12 countries, with a very strong focus on northern Europe.

More and more sportswear for the new Monster SS 2020 collection

The great Metalbottoni classic dedicated to denim confirms the trend of strongly merging with the world of sportswear. The MONSTER line introduces the style developments of the SS 2020 season, with the range being more and more influenced by technical and sports interpretations, alongside sustainable production processes based on the NO IMPACT protocol. The new MONSTER proposals include items made of non-metal material, using sustainable processes, of natural origin and 100% biodegradable; these accessories are similar in appearance to traditional polyester, interpreted in a responsible way, developed through a series of special and unique effects. Also the button, rivet and small plate range has been restyled, having always been the core of the MONSTER line. Today the number of solutions available increases  hanks to new vintage finishing, developed on metal accessories, which are also totally green. “The denim world is moving in a clear direction: that of sustainability.” says Maria Teresa Ricciardo, Creative Director at Metalbottoni, “This is true in particular for some markets, which are strategic for us, and where we are proving increasingly successful, thanks to constant product and process research from a green  perspective, which Metalbottoni today is able to offer within the framework of the NO IMPACT pathway which we have been pursuing for a long time”.

Bobingen - Trevira GmbH, Germany, is again participating as an exhibitor at this year’s Building Healthcare show in Dubai, from 2-4 October. The manufacturer of high-value polyester fibres will present a large variety of fabrics made by 12 partners from inherently flame retardant Trevira fibres and yarns.

Modern furnishing concepts for healthcare environments are making increasing demands in terms of quality, functionality, colouring and hygiene. Perfectly matched materials and colour concepts in the interior not only help to provide good orientation for the residents, but also create more attractive spaces. In addition, the use of appropriate textiles such as curtains, drapes, blinds and sliding panels, fabric-covered dividing panels, upholstery and bedding textiles, can improve the room acoustics, protect your privacy and let the room appear in a pleasant light. In healthcare environments where hygiene and cleanliness are of particular importance, antimicrobial textiles may be used.

Trevira CS® and Trevira CS Bioactive® create a safe, attractive and comfortable environment in hospitals, clinics, spas, care homes and all other sectors in the contract sector.

Trevira CS Bioactive® contract textiles combine flame retardant and antimicrobial functions, which makes them the ideal material for use in healthcare facilities. They inhibit the growth of bacteria, prevent the formation of odours in/on the fibre and keep the textiles fresh for a longer time. The permanent flame retardant and bioactive properties of their fibres is integrated at molecular level, meaning that they remain unaffected by repeated washing, abrasion and ageing. This gives them an advantage over textiles with only a supplementary surface finish.

Trevira CS® and Trevira CS Bioactive® fabrics for the healthcare sector presented at the show stand come from these suppliers: Delius, Dina Vanelli, Fidivi Tessitura Vergnano, Gebrüder Munzert, JAB, Mattes & Ammann, Pugi, Rubelli, Rudolf Breuer Mechanische Weberei, Schmitz Textiles/drapilux, Subrenat, Verotex.

Trevira CS® and Trevira CS Bioactive® fabrics meet the requirements of the relevant international fire safety standards and can be certified according to the IMO regulations for the maritime sector. All Trevira fibres and yarns carry the Oekotex Standard 100 certificate. They are manufactured in accordance with the highest standards for sustainable products. A broad variety of collections with thousands of designs are available in Trevira CS® worldwide.

• Decline in revenue due to volatile standard viscose prices and currencies
• Prices for key raw materials still high
• New production line in Heiligenkreuz in start-up phase
• Backward integration into dissolving wood pulp to be strengthened via joint venture in Brazil

Lenzing – The Lenzing Group generated solid results in a challenging market environment in the first half of 2018. The decline in revenue and earnings compared with the first half of the previous year, which was the best half-year in the company’s history, was based on a mix of volatile prices for standard viscose and price increases for key raw materials, coupled with currency effects. The Lenzing Group’s strategic orientation with a focus on specialty fibers had a positive impact in this environment and is increasingly bearing fruit. The corporate strategy sCore TEN is being implemented with great discipline in order to expand the company’s offering of specialty fibers and even more extensively support customers and business partners.

Revenue declined by 6.4 percent compared with the first half of the previous year to EUR 1,075.4 mn. This decrease is primarily attributable to less favorable currency exchange rates. EBITDA (earnings before interest, tax, depreciation and amortization) decreased by 28.1 percent to EUR 194.8 mn, especially due to price increases for key raw materials and higher energy prices. The EBITDA margin fell from 23.6 percent in the first half of 2017 to 18.1 percent in the first half of 2018. EBIT (earnings before interest and tax) declined by 37 percent to EUR 128.7 mn, leading to a lower EBIT margin of 12 percent (H1 2017: 17.8 percent). The net profit for the period dropped by 39.3 percent from EUR 150.3 mn in the previous year to EUR 91.3 mn. Earnings per share equaled EUR 3.44 (H1 2017: EUR 5.55).

“So far, the financial year 2018 proved to be as challenging as expected, and market headwinds were clearly noticeable. In this market environment, we are satisfied with the solid results we report. We are proud that with our corporate strategy sCore TEN and the focus on growth with specialty fibers we show big steps in the right direction. The recently announced joint venture with Duratex is another important step in executing this corporate strategy,” says Stefan Doboczky, Chief Executive Officer of the Lenzing Group. “We will continue to implement our strategy with great discipline and are convinced that this will steadily improve the long-term profitability of Lenzing,” Doboczky adds.

Largest dissolving wood pulp line worldwide

In June, the Lenzing Group and Duratex, the largest producer of industrialized wood panels of the southern hemisphere, announced that they had agreed on the terms and conditions to form a joint venture to investigate building the largest dissolving wood pulp plant (single line concept) in the state of Minas Gerais, (Brazil). This decision supports the self-supply with dissolving wood pulp and the growth in specialty fibers, defined in Lenzing’s sCore TEN strategy. The joint venture will investigate the construction of a 450,000 t dissolving wood pulp plant, which is expected to become the largest and most competitive single line dissolving wood pulp plant in the world. The final investment decision to build the dissolving wood pulp plant is subject to the outcome of the basic engineering studies and the approval by the respective supervisory boards.

Even stronger focus on sustainable products

As a pioneer in sustainable fiber solutions, the Lenzing Group is committed to higher standards in the textile and nonwoven sectors. More than EUR 100 mn will be invested in sustainable manufacturing technologies and production facilities by 2022 in order to realize this vision. In line with the Group’s specialty strategy, another two milestones were set in the first half of 2018: Lenzing announced an investment of up to EUR 30 mn in another pilot line for the production of TENCEL™ Luxe filaments at the Lenzing site. In addition, the company also introduced the environmentally friendly process for the production of LENZING™ ECOVERO™ branded viscose fibers at its Chinese site. Both decisions contribute to better meeting the strong demand for environmentally compatible products.

Expansion of capacities

CAPEX (investments in intangible assets and property, plant and equipment) rose by 60.8 percent year-on-year to EUR 117.2 mn in the first half of 2018. This is primarily attributable to the capacity expansions in Heiligenkreuz (Austria) and Mobile, Alabama (USA) and the expansion of the existing dissolving wood pulp plant in Lenzing. The company is pressing ahead with these projects as well as with planning work on the construction of the next state-of-the-art lyocell production facility in Prachinburi (Thailand).

New brand identity

With the new positioning of its master brand and its product brands, the Lenzing Group started a new phase of branding and brand communication in the first half of 2018. Lenzing decided to carry out a new brand strategy in order to sharpen its company and product profile as a sustainable innovation leader for customers and partners along the value chain as well as for consumers. The most important pillar of this new brand strategy is a brand architecture with a focus on fewer brands and a strong message to consumers. With the TENCEL™ brand as an umbrella brand for all specialty products in the textile segment and the VEOCEL™ brand as the umbrella brand for all specialty fibers in the nonwoven segment as well as the new master brand, which was presented in March, Lenzing showcases its strengths in a targeted manner.

Outlook

The International Monetary Fund expects a further acceleration in global economic growth to 3.9 percent for 2018. However, growing protectionist tendencies in the political arena represent a source of uncertainty. Export-oriented companies in the Eurozone are faced with additional challenges from the currency environment.

Developments on the fiber markets should remain positive, but with continuing volatility. The rising demand for cotton should support prices despite the increase in production. Polyester fiber prices have stabilized after the increase in previous years.

The wood-based cellulosic fiber segment, which is relevant for Lenzing, should see further strong demand. After years of moderate capacity expansion in the viscose sector, significant additional volumes will enter the market in 2018 and 2019. As a result, standard viscose prices will remain under pressure. The Lenzing Group is very well positioned in this market environment with its corporate strategy sCore TEN and will continue its consistent focus on growth with specialty fibers.

The Lenzing Group still sees challenging market conditions for the second half of 2018. In addition to the price pressure on standard viscose, the prices of some key raw materials such as caustic soda are still at a very high level and exchange rates continue to be volatile. Our specialty fibers are expected to continue their very positive development. In this context, the Lenzing Group is satisfied with the earnings development to date, but underlines its estimate that the results for the year 2018 will be lower than the outstanding results in the last two years.

Penn Textile Solutions and Penn Italia introduce ECOINNOVATION, fully sustainable products range! These must-see products are created using the world’s first premium stretch yarn by ROICA™ that is Cradle to Cradle Certified™ Gold level for Material Health and Hohenstein Environment Compatibility Certificate for breaking down without releasing harmful substances.

Penn Textile Solutions and Penn Italia, a fully integrated international-minded company with over 50 years’ expertise in producing innovative warp and weft knit textiles that answer customers’ demands, including fantastic elastomeric knitted textiles.

Penn Textile Solutions and Penn Italia wisely picks ROICA™ premium stretch fiber to create our ECOINNOVATION, a new fully sustainable range of advanced textiles that are 100% sustainable. ROICA™, produced by Asahi Kasei, is the secret premium stretch ingredient we used to provide comfort, enhance quality and confidence. Thus, making stretch performance a specialty fiber that generates new values for contemporary consumers.

ECOINNOVATION presents seven unique articles developed belonging to Penn Textile Solutions and Penn Italia’s family dreamshape® characterized by reinforced edges and seizing that includes the following recycled items; tulle, tulle galloons with dreamshape® reinforced edge, tricot, dreamshape® reinforced gripping edge (great for cycling shorts), stretch satin, polyester tulle and polyester double jersey perfect for laser cutting.

• Additives, pigments and masterbatches for transportation, packaging, textiles & fibers
• Support to “future-proof” medical applications
• Contributing towards more sustainable engineering plastics

Clariant, a world leader in specialty chemicals, turns the spotlight on its increasing on-the-ground support and innovation focus for North America’s four key plastics application segments at NPE 2018 Booth S18155.

Clariant is pushing forward with plans for growth in the region by advancing R&D competencies, and increasing its manufacturing footprint and technical capabilities across its 50+ sites, 3 R&D and 6 technical innovation centers. Clariant’s innovations for the plastics industry include advanced additives, masterbatches and pigments which support the packaging sector in engaging consumers via differentiated, convenient solutions. At NPE, it will also highlight solutions for enhancing and protecting healthcare products, as well as its contribution to stronger and colorful textiles and fibers for everything from e-mobility to industrial applications.

Deepak Parikh, president of region North America, Clariant comments: “Clariant’s product innovation for the US and wider North American plastics industry embraces the region’s fastest growing end-use areas of automotive and construction. It also addresses the impact of trends driven by changing consumer lifestyle preferences and market regulations on other important segments such as packaging and healthcare.”

Transportation
Clariant brings color and protection to support the increasing use of engineering plastics and high temperture resins in automotive interiors, exteriors and under-the-hood. Halogen-free Exolit® OP 1400 provides outstanding flame retardancy to polyamide parts, enhances safety with UL 94 V0 performance down to 0.4 mm and enables the molding of complex parts with no mold deposits and blooming. Exolit OP 1400 has been awarded the Clariant EcoTain®label for outstanding sustainability and performance. At the same time, Clariant offers low-halogen controlled high-performance PV Fast® pigmentswith excellent migration and weather fastness properties to meet the high requirements of today’s transportation and automotive industry. Easy processing Renol® compounds and masterbatches for engineering and high temperature resins provide heat and light stability, and flame retardancy, while maintaining critical flow properties in parts like SMT connectors. Importantly, they are available as small lots which enables customers to purchase only what they require and contribute to a reduction in their carbon footprint.

Packaging
As US packaging manufacturers explore more consumer-friendly, lighterweight and appealing solutions, Clariant is on hand to support their functionality, sustainability-related and color desires. Clariant Pigments has an innovative cooperation with Konica Minolta and matchmycolor to enable fast, precise and efficient color matching of HDPE products, using select organic PV Fast and Graphtol® pigments that comply with FDA regulations. The ColorWorks®center in Chicago is dedicated to US brand managers and designers with teams of color design experts to create color formulations faster than ever before for bottles, caps, closures and films.

According to market reports, plastic pouches are gaining share from traditional pack types in packaged food and are mainstream in home care. To support smoother and more environmentally-compatible processing especially for film applications, Clariant offers an FDA-compliant, vegetable-based powder amide wax, Licolub® FA 1, which acts as a slip and anti-block agent. It is suitable for polyolefins and PVC.

Textiles & Fiber
At NPE 2018, Clariant puts the focus on strong and colorful textiles, carpets and industrial fibers. New AddWorks® TFB 117 offers a number of benefits to help stabilize and smoothen fiber production processes, protect color, and improve heat stability and mechanical properties of fibers. AddWorks TFB 117 ensures smooth spinnability with less filaments breakage, even at low processing temperatures and at high speed spinning up to 5,500 m/min. Clariant also offers a broad range of colorants for polypropylene, polyester, polyamide and acrylic fibers, featuring migration fastness, chemical stability, light- and weather-fastness.

Healthcare
Clariant supports risk control and regulatory compliance for medical polymer and pharmaceutical packaging solutions. Its Mevopur® color and performance masterbatches and compounds include a USP Class 6 line of compliant products and multiple global ISO, 87, 88, and 661.1 certifications ahead of the market deadline. Clariant also offers selected FDA-compliant organic pigments and polymer soluble dyes that meet purity migration fastness as well as toxicological properties for medical devices and pharmaceutical packaging.

• Visit Archroma at China Interdye 2018, Booth A100, April 11-13, 2018, at the ShanghaiWorld Expo Exhibition & Convention Center, Shanghai, China

Archroma, a global leader in color and specialty chemicals, will present at China Interdye 2018 its latest technologies, under the motto: “Enhanced solutions for color and performance, it's our nature”.
With a heritage of more than 130 years, Archroma provides solutions that combine performance, safety and low impact on resources. The company can draw on its extensive formulation and technical know-how to offer a constant flow of eco-advanced and innovative new in dyestuff and pigments, as well as process and functional chemicals.
Solution packages for innovation

Visitors at Archroma’s Booth A100. will be able to ‘experience’ Archroma's innovative solutions, in particular:

• EarthColors, traceable from nature to fashion
  The EarthColors patented range of “biosynthetic” dyes for cotton and cellulose-based fabrics, which are made from waste left over by the agricultural and herbal industry after extraction, such as almond shells, saw palmetto, or rosemary leaves. The latest NFC technology used on the end-product hangtags enables transparency and traceability through the supply chain to consumers.
  The EarthColors have been adopted by brands such as Patagonia, Kathmandu and G-Star, and won an OutDoor Industry Award 2017.
   
• Color Atlas, a game-changing system for fashion design
  The Color Atlas by Archroma® is a groundbreaking platform specially devised to address the needs of designers, brands, retailers, and manufacturers, enhancing creative possibilities for the industry as well as manageability and time to market through key complementary tools: The six-volume ‘Color Atlas Library’ with 4,320 color swatches and cotton poplin samples, the ‘Color Atlas Compact’ in two volumes for increased portability, and the ‘Color Atlas Online’ allowing to capture an inspiring image using a smartphone and immediately identify the closest Color Atlas shade palette, with the possibility to purchase a color sample instantly.
   
• ‘Zero add-on’ formaldehyde finishing and coloring solutions
  Since January 1, 2016, formaldehyde is classified by ECHA5 as “may cause cancer” (Carc. 1B). Archroma offers a unique proposition combining: Fixapret® Resin WFF, a “zero add-on” formaldehyde anti-wrinkle finishing system and Helizarin® EcoSafe a “zero add-on”4 formaldehyde printing system. With Fixapret® Resin WFF, and Helizarin® EcoSafe, consumers can enjoy end-products that look good, whilst saving on precious resources and being gentler on the skin.
   
• Sanitized® Odoractiv 10, active odor control function for polyester textiles
  Visitors at the booth will be able to experience a new unique dimension of odor control function for functional polyester textiles. The newly developed wash-resistant Sanitized® Odoractiv 10 has a dual-action effect: on the one hand it prevents the bacteria from docking on the textile, and on the other, it adsorbs odors whilst the garment is being worn.

Spotlight on automotive solutions
Having acquired a 75% stake in the M. Dohmen group, a specialist in textile dyes and chemicals for automotive, carpet and apparel, Archroma is now in the position to extend its offer in expert products and services. M. Dohmen will be present at the show at Booth A118.

Solution packages for sustainability
Brand owners and retailers around the world are taking action to evaluate the environmental impact of textile treatment, dyeing and finishing processes in response to consumer concerns.
Archroma recently introduced the ONE WAY Process Simulator, the last update of a calculation tool that supports its ONE WAY Sustainability Service introduced back in 2012. The new, online software can be used to mimic and compare products and processes, and thus calculate the ecological and economical profile of the final end-product.

The DyStar® Group recently launched a new concept of their resource saving module – Cadira Reactive/Disperse Continuous.

Cadira Reactive/Disperse Continuous is a modified pad-dry-thermosol-pad-steam dyeing process for open width PES/CO fabrics. In contrast to the standard PDTPS process, Cadira Reactive/Disperse Continuous does not require a separate reduction clearing process and thus saves more than 40% chemicals, water and energy. This effect is obtained by using a special dye choice of Dianix® XF/XF2 and SF disperse dyes in combination with selected Levafix® and Remazol® reactive dyes and a modified steaming and wash-off process with Sera® auxiliaries.

The Cadira concepts considerably reduce process costs, water, waste and energy consumption and machine utilization. Cadira supports Brands & Retailers and their production partners in their effort to save valuable resources and to reduce the carbon footprint of their textile goods.

The first Cadira module was developed in 2016. Since then DyStar has launched Cadira concepts for various substrates and applications. So far, the following Cadira concepts are available.

Cadira Polyester
Cadira Recycled Polyester
Cadira Vat
Cadira Reactive
Cadira Procion PX
Cadira Wool
Cadira Denim

DyStar will continue their effort to support the textile industry to reduce the environmental footprint.

About DyStar
DyStar® Group is a solution provider, offering customers across the globe a complete range of colorants, auxiliaries and services. The DyStar Group has offices, competence centers, agencies and production plants in over 50 countries to ensure the availability of expertise in all important markets. With a heritage of more than a century of product development and innovation for the textile and leather industry, DyStar has developed into new markets and now in addition serves the paper, plastic and many other specialty chemical industries.

DyStar’s service division assist brands & retailers and their industry partners from their first inspiration throughout the entire supply chain to ensure that they meet stringent quality and ecological specifications, reduce costs and shorten lead times. The service division offers state of the art color communication through CSI, textile and ecology testing through Texanlab, ecology and environmental advice, supply chain auditing and consulting for RSL compliant sustainable processes through Sustainable Textile Solutions programs.

The DyStar econfidence® program provides assurance that provided products comply with legal, voluntary and brand & retailer RSL (Restricted Substance List) requirements. It is an assurance that our products are in compliance with chemical and environmental legislation in each market in which they are sold.
Visit www.DyStar.com for more information.

The market for the production of carpet yarn is increasingly evolving towards more demanding processes. However, beyond commodity products, standard plants can no longer fully exploit their advantages. From 20th to 22nd March 2018, Oerlikon Neumag will be presenting an economical alternative in Shanghai in hall W3, booth F03 at the Domotex asia/Chinafloor, the leading floor covering trade fair in the Asia-Pacific region: the BCF plant Sytec One with single-end technology.

If the requirements for the production of BCF yarns increase, for example, from recycled polyester or fine filaments, then this can also lead to higher breakage rates. Highly standardised production plants must then often strike compromises with regard to throughput, quality or cost-efficiency. In such cases, the Sytec One offers a good solution instead of the mostly three-end technology plants for standard processes.

Single-end technology with 98% productivity

This BCF plant works with only one yarn (end) per position, making it ideal for demanding production processes. The reason: when a yarn break occurs only one yarn tears, all other yarns continue to run. This not only simplifies troubleshooting, it also reduces the re-threading time. In addition, less waste is produced. As a result, the productivity of the Sytec One is still over 98% for ten breakages a day, while a plant with three-end technology only reaches around 92%.

Faster processes due to a straight yarn path

In addition, the absolutely straight yarn path of the Sytec One enables significantly higher process speeds of up to 15% in spinning and texturing processes compared to multi-end technologies. Higher total titers of up to 6,000 dtex can also be produced without any problems. The gentle yarn guidance also ensures minimum friction on the individual filaments. This means less yarn breaks and a more stable process.

Optimised key component: spinning pack

Last but not least, the engineers at Oerlikon Neumag have developed a new design for the spinning pack. This central component of every BCF machine significantly influences the yarn quality. The corresponding solution for the Sytec One optimises the polymer flow in the spin pack, thus reducing the polymer dwell time. This leads to shorter product and colour change times and increases the plant efficiency. In addition, the spinning packs were widened so that yarns with up to 500 filaments can now be produced.

The product mix is decisive

In view of these advantages, the single-end Sytec One is recommended for processes with high breakage rates, fine filaments, frequent colour changes or in general when demanding processes take up an increasing share in the business. "The product mix is decisive for the choice of technology," sums up Alfred Czaplinski, Sales Manager BCF at Oerlikon Neumag. "We are happy to advise on the optimal solution and offer both single-end and three-end plant technologies." 

Good business at the Domotex Hanover, Germany

In the run-up to the trade fair, the Domotex Hanover in mid-January was already proving to be a promising harbinger. With four lively trade fair days and contract conclusions in the lower double-digit million euro range, mainly from the European and Asian markets, the order intake for Oerlikon Neumag was very good.