From the Sector

• HPR is the highest status a plant can achieve for fire risk prevention and protection
• The site Ideal Fibres & Fabrics Comines is the second in the Beaulieu International Group to reach HPR status
• Underlines Group’s commitment to risk prevention at B.I.G. sites & to reinforcing our strong business contingency plan

Wielsbeke, Belgium – Beaulieu Yarns, the global supplier of high-quality polyamide and polypropylene yarns, is pleased to announce the achievement of Highly Protected Risk (HPR) status for its French production site, Ideal Fibres & Fabrics Comines. Awarded by FM Global, HPR designation means a facility meets the highest industry standards for property protection.

FM Global, Beaulieu International Group’s (B.I.G.) industrial property and business interruption insurer for the past two years, offers a unique concept that supports the Group in reducing its exposure to loss and increases its business resilience. A dedicated worldwide team of engineers focuses on providing assistance and protection of its assets, helping the Group to achieve a higher level of risk protection.

The Ideal Fibres & Fabrics Comines site produces high quality yarns for a large variety of application and market segments including the automotive industry. It scored exceptionally well in its FM Global assessment which focused on aspects including fire protection, protection against natural hazard, mechanical breakdown of machinery and also cyber risks.

Its overall risk mark of 76 ranks it within the top 25% of its industry for fire risk prevention and protection.

Commenting on the Award, Emmanuel Colchen, Global Sales Director Yarns within BU Beaulieu Engineered Products, said: “This HPR yarn production site reinforces strongly our supply chain security and demonstrates our engagement towards our customers and partners. Our contingency planning and risk management are essential, well-considered elements within our long-term business strategy to demanding sectors such as Automotive and Commercial & Residential floor covering contracts.”

Ideal Fibres & Fabrics Comines is the second facility in the Group to attain HPR status, and the very first in Europe. Pinnacle Polymers LLC in the USA also achieved the HPR as a chemical plant, which is a rare achievement within the chemical business. Fire risk prevention is part of the Group’s broader risk management activities. B.I.G. is investing in increasing the level of protection at all B.I.G. plants in order to protect its business continuity.

The divisions of B.I.G. are also implementing a number of safety programmes to raise awareness of workplace safety and to maintain strong safety records.

Karena Cancilleri, Vice President BU Beaulieu Engineered Products, commented: “I am proud of Beaulieu Yarns for achieving the highly-regarded FM Global HPR Award and setting an example for the whole Beaulieu International Group. This positive step reflects the strong commitment of the Engineered Products division and the rest of the Group to improving safety and protecting our workplaces and our production facilities.”

Beaulieu Yarns received the HPR Award at a ceremony on November 7, 2017 attended by all staff, and representatives of B.I.G. Management, Beaulieu Yarns Management and FM Global Management.

At JEC Asia 2017 (1-3 November), the international textile group CHOMARAT will receive a JEC Innovation Award in the Sports & Leisure category for its C-PLY™ Hexagonal with visual & structural stitching. “CHOMARAT provided NEILPRYDE and COBRA with its C-PLY™ Non-Crimp Fabric (NCF) technology to help them manufacture an innovative windfoil board, and we are very proud to be rewarded with our partners”, says Pascal JOUBERT DES OUCHES, Sports Equipment Market Director at CHOMARAT.

C-PLYTM HEXAGONAL COMBINES NEW CARBON LOOK AND PERFORMANCE

The unusual stitching of this carbon multiaxial NCF reinforcement combines visual appeal and mechanical performance. C-PLY™ Hexagonal is an innovative carbon NCF with a unique stitching yarn designed to be visible within the resin and to capture resin colour pigments. The stitching yarn also improves fracture toughness compared to standard NCF.
“We researched the right stitching yarn among multiple options before coming up with a tailor-made yarn solution. C-PLY™ Hexagonal provides a unique honeycomb carbon design that appeals to end users”, adds Philippe SANIAL, R&T Director at CHOMARAT.

A WIDE RANGE, FROM AERONAUTICS AND AUTOMOTIVE TO SPORTS & LEISURE APPLICATIONS

Originally dedicated to the design of aerospace and automotive parts, the concept is now successfully applied to the sports & leisure sector. In this innovative windfoil board construction, tows are spread to create thin plies, which are then stitched with precise ±45° angles. The C-PLY™ NCF structure respects the fibre alignment and is optimized in terms of fibre angles and ply weights, thanks to unique spreading technology. The result is a leading-edge carbon NCF reinforcement allowing structural design benefits, premium surface quality and overall parts cost savings. “Bringing a new carbon visual signature for our high-performance C-PLY™ range of NCF is a key to boost retail sales in the whole sports & consumers product industry”, concludes Pascal JOUBERT DES OUCHES.

• CHOMARAT signs a new distribution agreement with VELOX for its range of carbon reinforcements

The international textile group CHOMARAT announced the signing of a distribution agreement with VELOX, a European distributor in the market for composite materials. The partnership agreement covers the distribution of CHOMARAT reinforcements for high-performance (carbon) composites, in France, Italy, and the United Kingdom, as well as the distribution of CHOMARAT’s complete range of carbon and glass reinforcements in Turkey.

Stepping up the distribution of CHOMARAT´s carbion ranges in Europe

This new partnership will enable CHOMARAT to extend its network in France, Italy and the United Kingdom for its carbon fabric and multiaxial ranges, by offering its customers optimum, locally based services in line with the Group’s development strategy for high-performance composites in Europe.

CHOMARAT’s compete glass and carbon range is now distributed in Turkey

One component of the agreement deals with the distribution of CHOMARAT’s complete range of glass and carbon reinforcements in Turkey, where the composite market is booming, in particular in the transportation sector. Relying on VELOX’s strong foothold in the Turkish market, CHOMARAT will build up its flagship ROVICORE™ line, the first glass-fibre-reinforced sandwich reinforcement, which was designed and developed by CHOMARAT for closed-mould processes. “The idea is to step up our glass activities and still offer our customers more flexibility over the entire range of our reinforcements,” explains Vincent CHOLVY, in charge of the Turkish market at CHOMARAT.

VELOX secures its position as an “innovation distributor”

By distributing CHOMARAT’s high-performance composites, Velox will develop its offering in the transportation, sports & leisure and boating sectors. According to Serge GRADYS, Manager of the VELOX Composites Business, “in Europe, the distribution of the CHOMARAT range of carbon multiaxial range with C-WeaveTM and C-PlyTM, gives us a real competitive advantage and enables us to maintain our position as an innovation distributor. The same is true for the carbon and glass ranges distributed in Turkey!”

Bobingen - The Trevira City fair stand, which was presented at Orgatec 2016 in Cologne, has been nominated for the Famab Award in the category architecture. The Famab Award is a highly renowned award for integrated brand experiences. The award is presented to important international projects in temporary and permanent architecture or interpersonal communication.

Head of Marketing Anke Vollenbröker: “We are delighted that the stand concept, which was designed for us by the interior designers at raumkontor, has been nominated for the important Famab Award. We are already extremely excited to see whether Trevira City will be awarded the Bronze, Silver, or Golden Apple at the award ceremony in the Forum am Schlosspark in Ludwigsburg on 23 November.”

The Trevira City, which was developed by the interior designers at raumkontor and realised by Buchhold and Glindemann GmbH, took up the fair’s theme: “New Visions of Work”. Trevira City, which comprised eight houses made of fabric, showed textile solutions for modern work environments. It offered a new perspective on modern work environments where the borders between working and living become blurred, thereby demanding new approaches to design. In between the houses, an open space was created that stands for the central themes of efficient work processes: communication, creativity, inspiration, networking, and motion.

The fibre manufacturer, who was a first time exhibitor at Orgatec, presented its stand in collaboration with six fabric partners who showcased their products in one of each of the houses: Baumann Dekor, Casalegno Tendaggi, Fidivi, Hohmann, Müller Zell, Pugi. The various facets of the exhibition display the huge range of possibilities created by the participating manufacturers with their Trevira CS products.

Other fabric suppliers also contributed to the textile furnishings of the fair stand. Création Baumann, JAB Anstoetz, Mattes & Ammann, and Silent Gliss were the sponsors for the textile decorations in the two Trevira houses.

The Industry of the Future Alliance (AIF) has awarded Lectra with their ‘Showcase for the Industry of the Future’ label for demonstrating the criteria exemplarity, innovation and commitment. This certification is given to companies who have concretely developed a ground-breaking project to organize their production by leveraging the potential of digital.

The AIF bestowed Lectra with this distinction for its competitiveness concerning cost, quality and delivery times, all obtained thanks to a lean approach and reflection around the design of its products. Further, Lectra received the certification for its competitiveness regarding value, achieved thanks to mastering customer use from which new associated services have flowed. Since 2013, Lectra has invested €86 million in R&D, representing 9.4% of its revenues. This Investment has enabled Lectra to undergo a metamorphosis—based on methodological advances and fundamental technologies—increasing recruitment and growing competitiveness in all of its markets and geographical sectors.

With ten years’ experience in the industrial internet of things for cutting and expertise in software Solutions to automate and optimize design and product development, Lectra is in an unrivalled position to Support customers as they enter the ‘industry of the future’ era.

Pressure from certain shareholders to relocate manufacturing to China in 2005, triggered Lectra’s industrial project. Following risk analyses—the cost of transport for the European market, the turnover in qualified labor, uncertainty over patent rights and quality—Lectra decided to keep manufacturing in France. This choice was conditional on: disruptive innovation; upgrading; increased value to customers; and a rise in productivity.

The project was accompanied by a well-structured lean approach and organizational changes, which enabled Lectra to achieve the desired level of excellence in terms of productivity and competitiveness.

Some of the changes that took place thanks to this project are as follows: Growth in industrial performance due to an improvement in working conditions, with teams involved in the lean approach; Production engineers involved in creating awareness around factory constraints for a new offer as early as the design process. This co-design product/process optimizes global costs; Emphasis on product, process and logistics’ modularity with the latest possible integration of options (delayed differentiation). This enables logistics’ constraints to be taken into account as early as the engineering phase. Product modularity allows, for example, machines to be put in containers when they might otherwise require special heavy-goods transport.

Lectra’s factory improved its productivity rate by 18 points in three years, and has since maintained it at 89%. Costs have already reduced by 25% and the quality and level of service has improved. In terms of positioning, Lectra has confirmed its leadership in the high-end segment. Lectra has enriched its offer with end-to-end services and innovative, connected products whose embedded intelligence offers Smart Services, notably for predictive maintenance.

Based in Porto, Portugal, Rodrigo Siza will focus on nurturing new regional collaborations to benefit the needs of Lectra’s customers, and faciliate their success in the Industry 4.0 era. Rodrigo will rely on Lectra’s highly experienced teams located in the region.
“Rodrigo has very effectively established long-term partnerships with our fashion and apparel, automotive and furniture customers in Portugal. He has helped our customers to emerge stronger from the world crisis which heavily impacted them. After 10 successful years as head of Lectra Portgual, Rodrigo is now also in charge of meeting the expectations of our Spanish customers,” stated Daniel Harari, Lectra Chairman and CEO.

Players in the region are witnessing a strong dynamic, notably fashion brands in Spain and fashion and automotive industrialists with heightened added-value in Portugal. With the recent announcement of a new strategy to focus on Industry 4.0, Lectra is in a strong position to support these businesses in the digitalization of their processes.
For industries faced with more demanding consumers and ever-shorter product development and manufacturing cycles, integrating all steps along the extended supply chain, from design to cutting, is now a top priority. This is particularly apparent in Spain and Portugal, two countries positioned, in their own way, at the heart of Europe’s fashion and automotive industries.
Rodrigo started his career at Tradetex, a trading company of textiles for clothing, as a textile designer. From 1991 to 1999, he was an associate of V-Sistemas Informatica, specialized in the development and distribution of technical solutions for the textile industry. In 2000, he joined Lectra Portugal as a design and merchandising manager, and then evolved into the position of international consultant in 2004. He left Lectra in 2005 to take the position of Sales Director of RPB Têxteis e Vestuario, a company that makes clothes, before returning to Lectra in 2007 to take over the management of the Portuguese subsidiary. Rodrigo has a masters in marketing from Minho University and a degree in design and communication from Porto University, both located in Portugal.

Lectra has leveraged more than 10 years of experience in connected manufacturing to offer Versalis®, an innovative digital solution designed to cut leather without compromise on quality. Featuring a powerful automatic nesting system for overall improvements in efficiency, the fully automated solution enables automotive leather suppliers to cut costs, improve productivity and minimize waste while also establishing a pathway to value-added Industry 4.0 processes.

Currently, almost 90% of leather used for automotive applications is cut using manual die presses, which require designers to build a physical prototype and finalize the design through trial and error. Lectra offers a fully digitalized leather solution from prototyping to cut parts—when used in combination with Lectra’s 3D prototyping and pattern-making software, Versalis digital leather cutting solution enables a 12-16 week reduction in development and launch cycles for vehicle seating models.
During the leather-cutting phase, the latest release of Versalis LeatherSuite allows automotive leather suppliers to achieve up to 15% greater productivity. Lectra’s end-to-end automotive leather offering furthermore guarantees optimal uptime through an extensive worldwide support network of field engineers and technical experts.
"Lectra focuses on a consultative approach that allows it to fully understand the customer’s needs before building a solution comprising software, hardware, consulting, training, and after-sales support,” said Frost & Sullivan Industry Analyst Kamalesh Mohanarangam. "Lectra’s equipment is fitted with more than 200 sensors that predict failure and immediately report issues to its call centres. This product feature and service has resulted in 98% uptime and very fast mean time to repair."

Although digital leather cutting solutions are an investment, leather cutters and Tier-1 suppliers have begun to recognize the value of these products. On average, Lectra’s solutions help customers achieve up to 7% savings on leather compared to manual die-press methods by minimizing human error and variability in the cutting room. A benchmark test of leather trim cutting for door panels demonstrated a 3.5% gain in material made possible by Versalis’ superior nesting capabilities compared to the customer’s yield using manual nesting with die press machines, representing potential savings of €9 million per year.
Versalis is the fruit of significant R&D investment for the company, which has always made re-investment of capital a priority. As part of a transformational plan, Lectra spent more than €50 million in investments between 2011 and 2015. With Lectra’s new strategy focusing on supporting their customers’ transition to Industry 4.0 standards, Lectra will increase the share of revenues dedicated to R&D to 10% for the period from 2017 to 2019, representing a rise of about 50% between 2016 and 2019.

Lectra has developed partnerships with over 850 fashion schools across the world, providing them with solutions and expertise to help the teachers prepare students with the skills they require for the workplace. Working with leading education partners, Lectra organises regular student competitions in association with customers. The latest competition with Istituto Secoli, renowned for its pattern-making savoir-faire, and organized with Armani, is a clear example of industry and education working hand-in-hand to nurture young fashion designers.
Students at Istituto Secoli developed their collections using Lectra’s Modaris® and Diamino® solutions to create their patterns, prototypes and markers. In addition, students from the master’s program in menswear cut their creations with Vector®, Lectra’s state-of-the-art fabric cutting solution.

Thanks to the trusted relationship that Lectra has with its customer G.A. Operations of the Giorgio Armani group, one of the winning students, graduating in menswear, has the opportunity to take up an internship in the collection development department. "We were very pleased with Lectra's initiative and were delighted to offer educational internships at G.A. Operations. We chose the winning student for his creative skills and for his training on Modaris and Diamino. This gives us the important advantage of bringing somebody with proven technical skills into our team," stated Giorgio Ferremi, industrial director G.A. Operations at Trento.

Over three years, this new Chair aims to help the fashion industry’s eco-system—from textile design to clothing sales—transform challenges coming from new ways of living and consuming into economic opportunities.
“How to find and develop sustainable materials which will open up new markets for companies in the sector? Which technologies to invent to make the most of these new materials? How to organize the factory of the future to meet new consumer expectations, such as customization? It’s an entire economy that we aim to develop around emerging industries,” explains Jean-Pierre Mocho, the founder of JPS Conseil and former President of the French federation for women’s ready-to-wear. “There are many opportunities to seize, on condition that all the players, both old and new, work together.”
To help textile and apparel companies to innovate, the Chair will combine knowledge sharing with open innovation. In particular, a technical training facility will adapt and pass on material-related savoir-faire. “This Chair will help us to better understand the changes that are necessary in the sector, to anticipate innovations and to circulate knowledge worldwide,” underlines Patxi Elissalde, director, ESTIA. “Based in Biarritz and founded with a long-term vision, this Chair will dive into user behaviors, materials and components, manufacturing technologies and services, the digitalization of processes, and the distribution of products, from clothes to accessories.”

This approach will also foster interactions between different professions in order to stimulate creativity. Inspired by overarching principles in the collaborative and circular economy, the Chair also aims to capitalize on advances in research, from frugal or disruptive innovation.

SDC’s annual competition engages with hundreds of students, universities and designers globally, helping the entrants develop their understanding of color and the challenges around sustainability in the textile supply chain. The theme for 2018 is ‘color communication’.
With a global textile supply chain, being able to communicate a given color through the supply chain efficiently and effectively is vital. Ultimately this provides the designer with the knowledge that their product is commercially suitable from the initial concept stages through to final product.
Archroma will support the competition with its Color Atlas color management system, which will be key to both the competition theme and the accompanying educational package.
Using these colors also provides the best opportunity to minimize the environmental impact during the dyeing/printing process by ensuring that the dyes conform to many of the environmental standards that exist and are applied using best practice.
“We at Archroma are very proud to be the official sponsor of the SDC International Design Competition. The participants will be able to experience first-hand how the Color Atlas can support their creativity. For Archroma, this is a great opportunity to further drive innovation and sustainability in the textile supply chain“, commented Brad McClanahan, Global Head of Service Businesses at Archroma.