From the Sector

Outdoor apparel company Patagonia and circular fashion and textile technology group Infinited Fiber Company have signed a multiyear sales agreement for Infinited Fiber Company’s unique, premium-quality regenerated textile fiber Infinna™, which is created out of textile waste. The move marks a major milestone for both companies towards making textile circularity an everyday reality: The deal guarantees Patagonia access to the limited-supply fiber over the coming years and secures future sales income for Infinited Fiber Company as it ramps up production.

Infinna is a unique, virgin-quality regenerated textile fiber with the soft and natural look and feel of cotton. It is created from cotton-rich textile waste that is broken down at the molecular level and reborn as new fibers. Because it’s made of cellulose – a building block of all plants – Infinna is biodegradable and contains no microplastics to clog our seas. Clothes made with it can be recycled again in the same process together with other textile waste.

In April, Infinited Fiber Company announced plans to build a flagship factory in Finland to meet the growing demand for Infinna from global fashion brands. It is currently supplying customers from its R&D and pilot facilities in Espoo and Valkeakoski, Finland. The planned flagship factory will have an annual production capacity of 30,000 metric tons, which is enough fiber for roughly 100 million T-shirts made with 100% Infinna. Infinited Fiber Company expects to have sold the new factory’s entire output for several years during 2021.

More than 92 million metric tons of textile waste is produced globally every year and most of this ends up in landfills or incinerators. At the same time, textile fiber demand is increasing, with Textile Exchange estimating the global textile fiber market to grow 30% to 146 million metric tons by 2030 from 111 million metric tons in 2019. Infinited Fiber Company’s fiber regeneration technology, which uses cellulose-rich waste streams as its raw material, offers a solution both to stop waste from being wasted and to reduce the burden of the textile industry on the planet’s limited natural resources.

The antimicrobial protection of Sanitized® T 99-19 against the SARS-CoV-2 virus has been confirmed by independent labs in France (basis: ISO 18184:2019).

Textile and polymer products with Sanitized® antimicrobial treatment have been used in hygiene-sensitive areas for many years. For textiles, Sanitized® T 99-19 is a patented technology based on a silane-ammonia compound, a globally proven product. Its hygiene function is used in workwear and protective clothing for nursing staff, bed linen or mattresses in hotels, nursing care facilities and hospitals. Polyester goods for precisely these areas of application can now not only be antimicrobial, but also reliably protective against SARS CoV-2.

The antiviral efficacy (99.84 %) of the Sanitized® T 99-19 product has been officially confirmed by tests conducted by external labs.

Tests on end products, which were additionally carried out by textile manufacturers, also prove the effectiveness of Sanitized® T 99-19 against SARS CoV-2. License partners praise this confidence-building benefit of the end products. SANITIZED license partners receive concrete support in terms of marketing and legal aspects (health claims).

Avoid legal pitfalls when claiming antiviral protection
Advice and support for customers in achieving optimal hygiene protection for their products are an integral part of SANITIZED services. A claim guide has therefore been developed especially for products that protect against COVID-19.
https://www.sanitized.com/de/protection-against-covid-19-which-antiviral-advertising-claimsare-legal-sanitized-explains/

In 2020, the number of GOTS certified facilities grew by 34% globally, to a new high of 10,388 from 7,765 in 2019. 16 GOTS Approved Certification Bodies report that over 3 million people in over 72 countries were working in GOTS certified facilities.

Significant increases are seen in all regions. Top 10 countries for certified facilities are India (2,994), Bangladesh (1,584), Turkey (1,107), China (961), Germany (684), Italy (585), Portugal (449), Pakistan (391), USA (167) and Sri Lanka (126).
GOTS approved chemical inputs now number 25,913, an increase of 13% in 2020. This confirms that these inputs are increasingly used as a risk management tool by wet processors to satisfy legal and commercial residue requirements.

“The exceptional increase in this unprecedented year shows that decision makers value GOTS as an important tool to drive sustainable transformation in a comprehensive way - from field to fashion. Using organic fibres and processing them under strict GOTS criteria definitely provides a credible and strong base for market players to be successful in the future” says GOTS Managing Director Claudia Kersten.

GOTS version 6.0, to be implemented from 1 March 2021, includes stricter social and environmental criteria. Certified Entities will now have to calculate the gap between wages paid to 'Living Wages'  and will be encouraged to work towards closing this gap. Specific references to OECD Due Diligence Guidance and Good Practice Guidance for Social Criteria and Risk Assessment as well as Ethical Business Practises have been explicitly included.

Two ISKO I-SKOOL™ 7 looks make their debut at the Graduate Fashion Foundation, part of London Fashion Week, a springboard for new talent striving to bridge the gap between education and industry.

Following an unprecedented academic year, GFF celebrates how the Class of 2020 have adapted and overcome adversity to complete their degrees across 26 fashion specialisms, from Design and Knitwear to Comms, Marketing and Business. London, 17-22 September – To bring together fashion educators and industry leaders and to support their graduates to reach their full potential once they have graduated: this has always been GFF’s main goal for the past 28 years. Now more than ever, GFF continues in its long-standing commitment to share good practice and knowledge and to inspire students to become innovators, environmental leaders, employees, and educators while promoting cultural diversity and inclusivity within an international platform – very much in keeping with ISKO I-SKOOL™ values and approach which resonate throughout the contest’s Denim Awards.

Designers Kotryna Adomaityte and Isabel Hambly from Nottingham Trent University were 2 of the 9 winners of the ISKO I-SKOOL™ 7 Awards, announced in a phygital ceremony held on July 22. The two students were invited to showcase their winning creations at GFF. Kotryna, winner of the ISKO I-SKOOL™ PERICOLO Award by Cadica Group, impressed the audience with her “Wild West Denim” look to London at the GFF Showroom.

Isabel Hambly, winner of the ISKO I-SKOOL™ Best Marketable Product, stole the show with her “Women at war” outfit which was displayed at the Catwalk Show, live-streamed from Samsung KX on September 22. That two of ISKO I-SKOOL™ 7 winners and finalists were part of this important event is proof of the significant role the contest – developed and supported by ISKO – plays in nurturing and championing talent and creativity. This edition’s main concept was world’s citizenship, with the Creative Theme “North, East, South, West – connected by one planet”. The twenty shortlisted finalists were asked to dig into their roots and to approach different cultures, defining and tracking down the geography of the world connecting them through responsibility. In addition to exploring the planet both locally and globally, they were also required to take into account the product life cycle of their outfits – featuring a 5-pocket jeans to interpret their view on the “local” concept and two Denim Show Pieces to reflect their worldwide influences and topics of interest. These were made with top ISKO™ denim fabrics, meeting the designers’ needs and providing a strong sustainable ingredient.

“We are really proud that two of our winners made it to GFF, with which we have many values in common – it marks another important step in their journey” said ISKO Senior Executive ISKO I-SKOOL™ Project Irem Orhun. “All of this goes to show how ISKO I-SKOOL™ plays a fundamental role in providing the foundation to enter the industry more aware of your skills and capabilities.”

• The PREMIUM GROUP in Berlin is cancelling its PREMIUM and SEEK trade shows for this summer season, as well as the FASHIONTECH conference – in collaboration with the leading global digital B2B marketplace, JOOR, there is still a guaranteed trading option.

Due to the coronavirus crisis, in April the dates of the PREMIUM GROUP’s events were provisionally moved from the original schedule of 31 June-2 July 2020 to 28 -30 July. Now, the Federal and State governments have decided to cancel large-scale events with over 1,000 visitors until 31 August 2020.
     
A statement from Anita Tillmann, Managing Partner of the PREMIUM GROUP: 

“We greatly regret the decision of course, especially after the success of our January events. The ban on large-scale events has been around for some time and has been publicly discussed. It hurts us to do it, but we are also conscious of our responsibility. If cancelling our trade shows, conferences and parties contributes to the safety of our customers and visitors, then we have to take this step.
 
We are in close contact with all our brands and partners and have spent the last four weeks discussing possible approaches, concepts and new focal topics for the summer. The bottom line is that digitalisation is clearly the focus. It’s all about using the time over the next few months sensibly. The timing for brands and retailers is now right – all market participants are aware of the necessity of this.

We have been working closely with JOOR, the leading B2B marketplace globally, for around a year, after successfully integrating our own digital platform, Veee.com. JOOR has digitalised the entire procurement process and ensures a seamless, functioning wholesale process on an international scale – both for brands and retailers.
 
We shall shortly be offering webinars on this and can offer our customers an optimal, digital ordering solution so as to use this time of the pandemic efficiently. We are very happy with this option and our year-long investment in the topic of digitalisation. This has come good for us now.
 
Our trade show formats have been about more than just ordering for a long time now. They are about encounters, emotion, inspiration, communication and, finally, the fashion community getting together. Although lots can take place digitally nowadays, it doesn't replace physically meeting up in person. We have seen this more than ever in the present situation.
 
We are going to work on new concepts for 2021, and we will liaise with the key stakeholders in Berlin and with all others too to ensure we hit the ground running again. We’re taking on the challenge and will come back to the industry when we have news.”

This autumn, following the success of the first collaboration with Swizz Beatz, Bally joins forces on another unique collection with the Grammy Award-winning music producer and global entrepreneur, inviting meticulously talented pioneer of aerosol X-ray art SHOK-1 to conceptualise and direct a new capsule collection which presents a diagnostic look at contemporary culture through cutting edge expression.

A founding member of the street art movement and a scientist with a degree in Applied Chemistry, SHOK-1 selected three key icons from his back catalogue - X-ray paintings of a hand gesture, a fly and ’The Consumer’ - that symbolise subcultures from his youth that also connect to Bally’s past. The artworks are represented across shoes, accessories and ready to wear. Talking about his vision for the project, SHOK-1 explained that he wanted ‘the collection to speak to the longstanding tradition of subcultures co-opting brands that weren’t meant for them.’ ‘I strongly believe that quality and excellence are universal concepts that can transcend class and cultural boundaries. The Bally that I remember as a kid has this fantastic relationship with subculture. It’s also a brand that has the same kind of attention to detail and production values that I aspire to in my own work, so there was a synergy there.’ Familiar with SHOK-1’s work, Swizz Beatz saw the potential and contacted him to discuss the opportunity: ‘SHOK-1 is a master artist and I chose him because our focus for this capsule was on exploring the art of X-ray and he’s a legend at his craft.’

As with all Bally collaborations, the metamorphosis that naturally evolves from creative cooperation is integral to the process.  Part of the ‘Bally Collective, curated by Swizz Beatz’, this collaboration continues the brand’s commitment to creating a platform to playfully empower artistic license across emerging and established talent.

The exclusive collection will launch in Bally stores worldwide and bally.com in October 2018.

• Spanish outdoor and sportswear market leader expands international presence thanks to Lectra’s latest product lifecycle management solution

Ismaning/Paris – Lectra, the technological partner for companies using fabrics and leather, is pleased to announce that the Ternua Group, a world-renowned Spanish outdoor clothing and sportswear group, has chosen Lectra Fashion PLM 4.0 to increase their geographical presence by improving global teamwork.

Founded in 1994, the Ternua Group has achieved worldwide success by promoting adventure through respect for nature, producing sustainable technical clothing for outdoor sports enthusiasts worldwide. The group’s strong commitment to the environment is shown through their R&D that focuses on developing their own fabric by using eco-friendly materials such as organic cotton and recycled down.

Today, the group’s portfolio includes three brands Ternua, Astore and Lorpen, currently exporting to more than 50 countries, with operations in Europe, America and Asia. Compounding this global success, the ambitious group plans to penetrate more markets across the globe.

The group is implementing Lectra Fashion PLM 4.0 into their entire production process. Specifically developed to help fashion companies navigate the digital era, this modular and user-friendly solution will help the Ternua Group centralize and store information coming from their brands by digitalizing their supply chain. This will connect all teams involved in the design-to-production process, regardless of geographic location. Team members will also be able to comm unicate better with external suppliers, access accurate information and keep track of every collection’s development progress. The group can hence speed up the entire production process and help their brands deliver their collections to markets all over the world on time.

“We manage our design and product development processes in-house but outsource our production in Europe, north of Africa and Asia. For our business to expand globally, we need to go fully digital. By having a system that consolidates and standardizes data coming from all supply chain actors across the world, we can respond faster to consumer demand,” explains Aitor Barinaga, Chief Operations Officer, Ternua Group. “We have assessed all other vendors—and Lectra Fashion PLM 4.0 is clearly the winner. It has the ability to fully integrate all processes and improve communication and teamwork across all departments through sound data management. We are more than happy to have a trusted partner as Lectra for such an ambitious project.”

“Ternua Group is constantly pushing the boundaries of innovation. This is shown through their desire to help customers achieve their personal best by providing them with high-performance technical wear that is also environmentally friendly. We are thrilled to embark on this new journey with the Ternua Group, and we are confident that our solution and expertise will help them get their collections out to new markets on time,” says Rodrigo Siza, Managing Director, Spain and Portugal, Lectra.