From the Sector

A new generation of ecological PU coatings with water vapour permeability

Today, nearly all “breathable“ PU direct coatings are applied from solvent systems. These products partly contain very harmful and environmentally hazardous solvents.
To solve the “solvent“ problem, RUDOLF GROUP developed ECO-VENT®:

A water-based coating solution that opens up new perspectives for numerous coated fabrics, which are permeable to water vapour and, thus, breathable.
The optimum PFC-free, waterproof and breathable protective clothing can be finished with RUDOLF’s cluster of supreme technologies:

• Outer fabric finished with BIONIC-FINISH®ECO
• Direct coating made from ECO-VENT®
• Lining with moisture control due to hydrophilic HYDROCOOL®

• Latex-free: UltraBond allows 100% recyclable thermal bonded nonwovens
• Sustainability & cost-efficiency: significant reductions in CO2 emissions and energy and water consumption for manufacturers of needlepunched exhibition & contract flooring
• UltraBond debuts at Domotex 2019 Stand B56 Hall 11

Beaulieu Fibres International (BFI) unveils a unique opportunity for carpet manufacturers to create fully recyclable needlepunch carpets, and benefit from production and resource savings, without influencing performance.

Launched at Domotex 2019, new UltraBond is a patented polyolefin bonding staple fibre that eliminates the need for latex or other chemical binders to bind nonwovens. It opens up a new path for creating 100% polypropylene (PP) needlepunch carpets which meet the same performance requirements as traditional latex-bonded carpets while reducing the end-of-life environmental impact. Functional properties such as pilling resistance, resistance to wear and abrasion, and also UV resistance are guaranteed.

Using UltraBond manufacturers finally gain the potential to cost-efficiently produce 100% recyclable carpets. In addition to the general benefits of making recycled PP available for the plastics production chain and reduced waste generation, environmental advantages and financial savings arise from a total lack of water and less energy use. As a 100% dry process, thermal bonding uses no water and results in a total absence of waste water. There is also a reduction in the VOC level of the carpet. This all leads to a significant reduction in a needlepunch carpet’s ecological footprint.

The sustainability benefits are quantified through lifecycle analysis (LCA) of an exhibition carpet application – among the primary applications for needlepunch carpets. Evaluations show that the absence of water consumption directly translates into a large energy saving of 93% when using UltraBond compared to a latex bonding solution, and also a potential annual water saving of over 20 million litres for 100 million m2 of exhibition applications in the EU. Without the addition of any other bonding agent, CO2 emissions are reduced by 35% over the full production process.

Karena Cancilleri, Vice President Beaulieu Engineered Products, Beaulieu International Group, commented, “Recyclability and achieving a greener, more cost-effective production process without compromising on current performance levels are significant unsolved topics within today’s carpet industry. By eliminating the need for latex and chemical binders through UltraBond, we offer needlepunch manufacturers a breakthrough they have been looking for that boosts environmental and economic sustainability. We see textile flooring as just the beginning. Together with our customers, we look forward to exploring the potential of this unique thermal bonding fibre in other applications such as laminated nonwovens or as an alternative to dry powders.”

Discover more about UltraBond from the Beaulieu Fibres International team at Stand B56 Hall 11, Domotex 2019 in Hannover, Germany from January 11-14, 2019.

• conceptual and commercial garments presented at exhibition in London

After two years of research Mistra Future Fashion is honoured to present, in collaboration with Centre for Circular Design at University of the Arts London and Filippa K, an exhibition pushing the limits of ‘fast’ and ‘slow’ fashion. Started in 2017, the industry-embedded project Circular Design Speeds takes a unique systemic approach, showcasing what could be accomplished using existing value chains as well as what the future of sustainable fashion holds. Ground-breaking textile research from University of the Arts London is questioning normative use and design of garments in creating prototypes to be worn across a spectrum of 24 hours to 50 years. By implementing research into existing value chains, Filippa K have produced a coat that is 100% recycled and recyclable, as well as a concept dress that is 100% bio-based and biodegradable. The research results and garments will be presented at the launch event at the University of the Arts London, on November 23rd and open to public on the 24th and 25th of November.

On Friday November 23rd the exhibition Disrupting Patterns: Designing for Circular Speeds opens up at University of the Arts London. The exhibition is the results of a two-year research project called Circular Design Speeds aiming at pushing the limits of ‘fast’ and ‘slow’ fashion by testing new concepts for sustainable design in an industry setting. On display are exploratory prototypes, as well as commercial garments produced by industry partner Filippa K using existing value chains. In addition, research results on innovative materials, consumer acceptance, composting studies and Life Cycle Assessments are presented. The aim of this project is to implement research results in a real fashion industry context, focusing on speed of use and maximising fabric value retention in products.

The Service Shirt developed by Professor Rebecca Earley is designed to last for over 50 years. The concept garment explores the multiple complexities, challenges and opportunities associated with design for circular business models in extended use contexts. The Service Shirt was designed as a ‘deliberate extreme’ to have a total lifecycle of 50 years. This lifecycle includes in-house and external remanufacturing processes, as well as various use cycles – often moving between single ownership and rental and sharing contexts. It becomes the lining for a jacket and then crafted in to fashion accessories, before finally being chemically regenerated in the year 2068.

On the opposite side of the spectrum the Fast-Forward concept, developed by Prof Kay Politowicz and Dr Kate Goldsworthy, explores alternative modes of production and use for a sustainable ‘fast-fashion’ application. Advantages with regards to climate impact are enabled through lighter material choices, nonwoven fabric production, no launder, clear routes to recovery and redistributed manufacturing systems. A sliding scale of ‘speed’ from ultra-fast forward through to a more widely accepted length of use, with adaptations to production processes and end of life, is presented. The prototypes are made from a new bio-based nonwoven material co-developed with Dr Hjalmar Granberg at RISE Research Institute of Sweden & University of the Arts London. The composition of the paper is a mix of cellulose pulp and bio-based PLA fibre, making the garment 100% biodegradable or recyclable in existing paper recycling systems.

Working closely with industry partner Filippa K made commercial testing possible. By implementing research into existing value chains, Filippa K was able to produce a coat that is 100% recycled and recyclable, as well as a concept dress that is 100% bio-based and biodegradable. The garments are a part of Filippa K’s Front Runner series and will be available in selected stores on November 26th. With a focus on products’ length of use and maximizing fabric value retention, Filippa K are dedicated to becoming fully circular by 2030.

“Being part of the fashion industry comes with many challenges, especially when considering the fact that we are the second most polluting industry after oil. Our industry needs to change and we believe adapting to circular models, like nature’s ecosystem, is one important solution. We want to be able to offer beautiful clothing and to make business within the planetary boundaries.”
- Elin Larsson, Sustainability Director, Filippa K

To validate the design research presented, a Life Cycle Assessment was performed on the prototypes. Mistra Future Fashion affiliated Dr. Greg Peters, Chalmers University of Technology, together with additional LCA Researchers at RISE, conclude that the production of fibres and fabrics are the main processes impacting the environment during the garment life cycles. Therefore, to extend the lifetime of existing garments and design for re-use, as done in the Service Shirt, is indeed the superior alternative compared to a reference garment.

“Compared with garments of the same mass, the extended life garments represent a large improvement in environmental performance over the reference garments, outperforming the reference garments in all effect categories. This superiority is primarily a consequence of avoiding garment production via reprinting and reassembly of the initial garment to extend its useful life.”
- Dr Greg Peters, LCA Researcher at Chalmers University of Technology

Another way to circumvent the impacts of fast fashion is to develop materials with considerably lower impacts during production, and which also avoid the barriers to recycling faced by conventional garments. Instead of hinder consumers from buying new, the act of acquiring a new garment could in fact be sustainable. The paper-based short life garments considered in this assessment show considerable impact savings when compare to the benchmark garment. Dr. Peters says,

“The paper-based garments benefit from the lower impacts of the material (fibre production, spinning and knitting) compared with conventional cotton, from their relatively light weight and also on account of the lower impacts in garment production and use.”

• Decline in revenue due to volatile standard viscose prices and currencies
• Prices for key raw materials still high
• New production line in Heiligenkreuz in start-up phase
• Backward integration into dissolving wood pulp to be strengthened via joint venture in Brazil

Lenzing – The Lenzing Group generated solid results in a challenging market environment in the first half of 2018. The decline in revenue and earnings compared with the first half of the previous year, which was the best half-year in the company’s history, was based on a mix of volatile prices for standard viscose and price increases for key raw materials, coupled with currency effects. The Lenzing Group’s strategic orientation with a focus on specialty fibers had a positive impact in this environment and is increasingly bearing fruit. The corporate strategy sCore TEN is being implemented with great discipline in order to expand the company’s offering of specialty fibers and even more extensively support customers and business partners.

Revenue declined by 6.4 percent compared with the first half of the previous year to EUR 1,075.4 mn. This decrease is primarily attributable to less favorable currency exchange rates. EBITDA (earnings before interest, tax, depreciation and amortization) decreased by 28.1 percent to EUR 194.8 mn, especially due to price increases for key raw materials and higher energy prices. The EBITDA margin fell from 23.6 percent in the first half of 2017 to 18.1 percent in the first half of 2018. EBIT (earnings before interest and tax) declined by 37 percent to EUR 128.7 mn, leading to a lower EBIT margin of 12 percent (H1 2017: 17.8 percent). The net profit for the period dropped by 39.3 percent from EUR 150.3 mn in the previous year to EUR 91.3 mn. Earnings per share equaled EUR 3.44 (H1 2017: EUR 5.55).

“So far, the financial year 2018 proved to be as challenging as expected, and market headwinds were clearly noticeable. In this market environment, we are satisfied with the solid results we report. We are proud that with our corporate strategy sCore TEN and the focus on growth with specialty fibers we show big steps in the right direction. The recently announced joint venture with Duratex is another important step in executing this corporate strategy,” says Stefan Doboczky, Chief Executive Officer of the Lenzing Group. “We will continue to implement our strategy with great discipline and are convinced that this will steadily improve the long-term profitability of Lenzing,” Doboczky adds.

Largest dissolving wood pulp line worldwide

In June, the Lenzing Group and Duratex, the largest producer of industrialized wood panels of the southern hemisphere, announced that they had agreed on the terms and conditions to form a joint venture to investigate building the largest dissolving wood pulp plant (single line concept) in the state of Minas Gerais, (Brazil). This decision supports the self-supply with dissolving wood pulp and the growth in specialty fibers, defined in Lenzing’s sCore TEN strategy. The joint venture will investigate the construction of a 450,000 t dissolving wood pulp plant, which is expected to become the largest and most competitive single line dissolving wood pulp plant in the world. The final investment decision to build the dissolving wood pulp plant is subject to the outcome of the basic engineering studies and the approval by the respective supervisory boards.

Even stronger focus on sustainable products

As a pioneer in sustainable fiber solutions, the Lenzing Group is committed to higher standards in the textile and nonwoven sectors. More than EUR 100 mn will be invested in sustainable manufacturing technologies and production facilities by 2022 in order to realize this vision. In line with the Group’s specialty strategy, another two milestones were set in the first half of 2018: Lenzing announced an investment of up to EUR 30 mn in another pilot line for the production of TENCEL™ Luxe filaments at the Lenzing site. In addition, the company also introduced the environmentally friendly process for the production of LENZING™ ECOVERO™ branded viscose fibers at its Chinese site. Both decisions contribute to better meeting the strong demand for environmentally compatible products.

Expansion of capacities

CAPEX (investments in intangible assets and property, plant and equipment) rose by 60.8 percent year-on-year to EUR 117.2 mn in the first half of 2018. This is primarily attributable to the capacity expansions in Heiligenkreuz (Austria) and Mobile, Alabama (USA) and the expansion of the existing dissolving wood pulp plant in Lenzing. The company is pressing ahead with these projects as well as with planning work on the construction of the next state-of-the-art lyocell production facility in Prachinburi (Thailand).

New brand identity

With the new positioning of its master brand and its product brands, the Lenzing Group started a new phase of branding and brand communication in the first half of 2018. Lenzing decided to carry out a new brand strategy in order to sharpen its company and product profile as a sustainable innovation leader for customers and partners along the value chain as well as for consumers. The most important pillar of this new brand strategy is a brand architecture with a focus on fewer brands and a strong message to consumers. With the TENCEL™ brand as an umbrella brand for all specialty products in the textile segment and the VEOCEL™ brand as the umbrella brand for all specialty fibers in the nonwoven segment as well as the new master brand, which was presented in March, Lenzing showcases its strengths in a targeted manner.

Outlook

The International Monetary Fund expects a further acceleration in global economic growth to 3.9 percent for 2018. However, growing protectionist tendencies in the political arena represent a source of uncertainty. Export-oriented companies in the Eurozone are faced with additional challenges from the currency environment.

Developments on the fiber markets should remain positive, but with continuing volatility. The rising demand for cotton should support prices despite the increase in production. Polyester fiber prices have stabilized after the increase in previous years.

The wood-based cellulosic fiber segment, which is relevant for Lenzing, should see further strong demand. After years of moderate capacity expansion in the viscose sector, significant additional volumes will enter the market in 2018 and 2019. As a result, standard viscose prices will remain under pressure. The Lenzing Group is very well positioned in this market environment with its corporate strategy sCore TEN and will continue its consistent focus on growth with specialty fibers.

The Lenzing Group still sees challenging market conditions for the second half of 2018. In addition to the price pressure on standard viscose, the prices of some key raw materials such as caustic soda are still at a very high level and exchange rates continue to be volatile. Our specialty fibers are expected to continue their very positive development. In this context, the Lenzing Group is satisfied with the earnings development to date, but underlines its estimate that the results for the year 2018 will be lower than the outstanding results in the last two years.

Built on an island right off the Finnish capital Helsinki, the Nolla cabin represents an ecological alternative to cabin life.

This summer, living with minimal emissions will be put to the test. Neste is building a prototype of a cabin that has a minimal environmental impact in terms of both carbon dioxide emissions and concrete impact on nature. The Nolla (= zero) cabin, designed by Finnish designer Robin Falck, is located just outside Helsinki city center, on the Vallisaari island. The cabin has been built from sustainable materials and is designed for a simple lifestyle with minimal to no emissions, taking into account the surrounding nature in every respect.

Located on the idyllic island of Vallisaari in the Helsinki archipelago, the Nolla cabin encourages people to consider how modern solutions and innovations could enable sustainable cabin living. Vallisaari has been in a natural state for decades and is thus the perfect location for an urban cabin experience, located at a 20-minute boat ride away from the Helsinki market square. The ecological and mobile Nolla cabin will be in Vallisaari until the end of September, demonstrating a lifestyle that generates minimal to no emissions.

Placing the compact and mobile cabin on its private lot does not require a construction permit
and it has been designed to use building materials as effectively as possible. The cabin is the size of a small bedroom and can be assembled and transported without heavy machinery, leaving its environment nearly untouched. The Nolla cabin has been designed by Finnish designer Robin Falck, whose earlier design, Nido cabin, has been globally acknowledged.

The Nolla cabin introduces solutions, which enable minimizing cabin life emissions remarkably. The energy supply of the cabin is entirely renewable; electricity is generated by solar panels, whilst the Wallas stove, reserved for cooking and heating, runs entirely on Neste MY Renewable Diesel, made 100% from waste and residue. The Aava Lines raft operating between Helsinki city centre and Vallisaari will also run on Neste MY Renewable diesel that can reduce greenhouse gas emissions by up to 90%.

“With the Nolla cabin, we want to offer visitors the possibility to experience modern cabin life in the realm of nature, with minimal emissions. An ecological lifestyle does not only require giving up unsustainable commodities, but also discovering modern, sustainable solutions that can be used instead. This has been an essential part of the design process”, says Falck.

“Finns are known for spending time at their beloved summer houses. We wanted to explore sustainable solutions that could enable cabin life with minimal emissions. Shared and circular economy, as well as new technologies and innovations have made it possible to enjoy our cabins without harming or burdening the environment. Some of the solutions that have been used at the Nolla cabin are perfectly adaptable at any cabin”, says Sirpa Tuomi, Marketing Director at Neste.

The Nolla cabin is executed in collaboration with Fortum, Wallas and Stockmann and is part of the Journey to Zero project by Neste, which explores new ideas and aims to steer the world towards a cleaner future with fewer emissions.

Wolford is recognized for high quality Skin wear and is a favorite among fashion influencers. Wolford realizes that when it comes to luxury, consumers expect brands to be responsible. In response, Wolford understands sustainable luxury is a new brand ingredient and are dedicated to expanding their collections each season and infusing responsible materials.

This July at Interfiliere, gain a sneak peek into the launch of Wolford’s Aurora collection of leggings and pullovers that are Cradle to Cradle gold certified, first one in the world! The new styles created use premium stretch yarn belonging to the ROICA™ Eco-Smart family, the world’s first yarn awarded Cradle2Cradle Material Health Gold Level Certificate and Hohenstein Environment compatibility certification, which provides evidence of compliance and offers confidence as a responsible choice. In addition to premium stretch yarn from ROICA™ Eco-Smart family, the Aurora pieces are made using two other responsible fibers, Lenzing Modal® a cellulosic fiber derived from sustainable forestry, and infinito® by Lauffenmühle, a specially modified oil based biodegradable polymer.’

Instead of using new materials, Wolford’s new collection is developed to return the ingredients back to the cycle, they simply borrow them for the lifetime of the product, which supports responsible product ingredient sourcing. At the end of the Aurora collection product lifecycle, Wolford will return them to an industrial composting station to naturally breakdown without releasing harmful environmental substances. Wolford is committed to becoming part of the solution and activating change as they continue to explore responsible material innovations.

Be sure to attend Première Vision NY Smart Talk on July 17th, 2018 at 2:00p to meet to Wolford’s own Andreas Roehrich, Director, Product Develoment & Innovation to discuss technology and Wolford’s quest to become a responsible luxury brand.
 

Exhibitors from over 30 countries participating at Kenya's Biggest Int'l. Multi-Sector Trade Exhibition

The largest international trade exhibition in Africa for multi-sector products, equipment and machinery will take place at KICC, Nairobi, Kenya from 04 - 06 September with record breaking numbers. Exhibitors and trade visitors are said to increase by 27% and 24% respectively at the 21st edition of the Kenya International Trade Exhibition (KITE). The exhibition has grown in stature from its inception 22 years ago, as the key networking and sourcing platform for the industries. As the largest event of its kind, it ensures direct access to over 150 exhibitors from 30 countries and more than 12,000 trade visitors.

With an amazing array of products and services from all over the world, it gives visitors the opportunity to source cutting edge products and services as well as learn about and discuss the latest market trends. There is no other related trade exhibition in East Africa that delivers the same quality, quantity and variety of buyers and distributors.

Concentrating on some of the largest growth categories within the multi sector industry, Kenya International Trade Exhibition (KITE) 2018 has five distinct sub categories, namely: FOODAGRO, MEDEXPO, PPPEXPO & INDUSMACH which will cover the food, hotel & agricultural sectors, medical & pharmaceuticals, plastic, printing & packaging sector, the industrial and finally the consumer sector. Being centrally located, Kenya emerges as one of the largest importers in Africa. Kenya also has the largest economy in east Africa and is a regional financial and transportation hub.

• Spanish outdoor and sportswear market leader expands international presence thanks to Lectra’s latest product lifecycle management solution

Ismaning/Paris – Lectra, the technological partner for companies using fabrics and leather, is pleased to announce that the Ternua Group, a world-renowned Spanish outdoor clothing and sportswear group, has chosen Lectra Fashion PLM 4.0 to increase their geographical presence by improving global teamwork.

Founded in 1994, the Ternua Group has achieved worldwide success by promoting adventure through respect for nature, producing sustainable technical clothing for outdoor sports enthusiasts worldwide. The group’s strong commitment to the environment is shown through their R&D that focuses on developing their own fabric by using eco-friendly materials such as organic cotton and recycled down.

Today, the group’s portfolio includes three brands Ternua, Astore and Lorpen, currently exporting to more than 50 countries, with operations in Europe, America and Asia. Compounding this global success, the ambitious group plans to penetrate more markets across the globe.

The group is implementing Lectra Fashion PLM 4.0 into their entire production process. Specifically developed to help fashion companies navigate the digital era, this modular and user-friendly solution will help the Ternua Group centralize and store information coming from their brands by digitalizing their supply chain. This will connect all teams involved in the design-to-production process, regardless of geographic location. Team members will also be able to comm unicate better with external suppliers, access accurate information and keep track of every collection’s development progress. The group can hence speed up the entire production process and help their brands deliver their collections to markets all over the world on time.

“We manage our design and product development processes in-house but outsource our production in Europe, north of Africa and Asia. For our business to expand globally, we need to go fully digital. By having a system that consolidates and standardizes data coming from all supply chain actors across the world, we can respond faster to consumer demand,” explains Aitor Barinaga, Chief Operations Officer, Ternua Group. “We have assessed all other vendors—and Lectra Fashion PLM 4.0 is clearly the winner. It has the ability to fully integrate all processes and improve communication and teamwork across all departments through sound data management. We are more than happy to have a trusted partner as Lectra for such an ambitious project.”

“Ternua Group is constantly pushing the boundaries of innovation. This is shown through their desire to help customers achieve their personal best by providing them with high-performance technical wear that is also environmentally friendly. We are thrilled to embark on this new journey with the Ternua Group, and we are confident that our solution and expertise will help them get their collections out to new markets on time,” says Rodrigo Siza, Managing Director, Spain and Portugal, Lectra.