From the Sector

The German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research Denkendorf (DITF) have modernized and expanded their melt spinning pilot plant with support from the State of Baden-Württemberg. The new facility enables research into new spinning processes, fiber functionalization and sustainable fibers made from biodegradable and bio-based polymers.

In the field of melt spinning, the DITF are working on several pioneering research areas, for example the development of various fibers for medical implants or fibers made from polylactide, a sustainable bio-based polyester. Other focal points include the development of flame-retardant polyamides and their processing into fibers for carpet and automotive applications as well as the development of carbon fibers from melt-spun precursors. The development of a bio-based alternative to petroleum-based polyethylene terephthalate (PET) fibers into polyethylene furanoate (PEF) fibers is also new. Bicomponent spinning technology, in which the fibers can be produced from two different components, plays a particularly important role, too.

Since polyamide (PA) and many other polymers were developed more than 85 years ago, various melt-spun fibers have revolutionized the textile world. In the field of technical textiles, they can have on a variety of functions: depending on their exact composition, they can for example be electrically conductive or luminescent. They can also show antimicrobial properties and be flame-retardant. They are suitable for lightweight construction, for medical applications or for insulating buildings.

In order to protect the environment and resources, the use of bio-based fibers will be increased in the future with a special focus on easy-to-recycle fibers. To this end, the DITF are conducting research into sustainable polyamides, polyesters and polyolefins as well as many other polymers. Many 'classic', that is, petroleum-based polymers cannot or only insufficiently be broken down into their components or recycled directly after use. An important goal of new research work is therefore to further establish systematic recycling methods to produce fibers of the highest possible quality.

For these forward-looking tasks, a bicomponent spinning plant from Oerlikon Neumag was set up and commissioned on an industrial scale at the DITF in January. The BCF process (bulk continuous filaments) allows special bundling, bulking and processing of the (multifilament) fibers. This process enables the large-scale synthesis of carpet yarns as well as staple fiber production, a unique feature in a public research institute. The system is supplemented by a so-called spinline rheometer. This allows a range of measurement-specific chemical and physical data to be recorded online and inline, which will contribute to a better understanding of fiber formation. In addition, a new compounder will be used for the development of functionalized polymers and for the energy-saving thermomechanical recycling of textile waste.

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, announced the election of five new members to serve on its 2024 Board of Directors. The Board of Directors play a key role in advancing INDA’s strategic objectives, actively supporting both the industry and the membership. Their primary responsibility lies in ensuring that INDA remains responsive to the evolving needs of its members and the broader nonwovens industry, guiding the formulation of policies and programs.

The five new Board members include:

• Jaren J. Edwards, President, Stein Fibers
• Edward McNally, Sales Director Nonwoven, Oerlikon Nonwoven
• Thomas Olsen, Senior Vice President, Americas Business Area, Suominen
• Patricia A Sargeant, Vice President, Glatfelter Corporation
• Paul Wood, President, Ontex North America

The Board is comprised of elected Board Officers. One-third of the entire Board is elected each year for a three-year term by INDA’s general membership. INDA’s Executive Committee, empowered to act on behalf of the Board between meetings, consists of the Board Officers plus appointees.
The Executive Committee includes:

• Chair: Mark Thornton, Vice President, The Procter & Gamble Company
• Vice Chair: Barbara Lawless, VP of Sales and Marketing – Medical Products, Precision Fabrics Group, Inc.
• Past Chair: Bryan Haynes, Senior Technical Director for Global Nonwovens, Kimberly-Clark Corporation
• Appointee: Mike Clark, President, Filtration Solutions, Hollingsworth & Vose Company
• Appointee: Jodi Russell, Vice President R&D, Cleaning Innovation, Packaging & Sustainability, The Clorox Company
• Appointee: Jeff Stafford, Vice President of Nonwovens, Milliken & Company
• Appointee: Robert Weilminster, EVP & General Manager, US & Canada – Health, Hygiene and Specialties Division, Berry Global
• Appointee: Tom Zaiser, CEO, Indorama Ventures

CARBIOS and Landbell Group, a global operator of more than 40 producer responsibility organizations (PROs) and a provider of closed-loop recycling solutions, announce the signing of a non-binding Memorandum of Understanding for the sourcing, preparation and recycling of post-consumer PET waste using CARBIOS’ biorecycling technology at its first commercial plant in Longlaville from 2026.  

The partnership will leverage Landbell Group’s expertise and network in the sourcing of PET packaging and textile waste which will be prepared for biorecycling. Thanks to CARBIOS’ highly selective enzyme, less sorting and washing is required compared to current recycling technologies, offering future savings in energy and water use. From 2026, Landbell Group will supply CARBIOS with 15 kt/year of PET flakes, ensuring a steady supply chain for sustainable PET production. These flakes will serve as essential feedstock for CARBIOS’ production of food-grade PTA and MEG, further re-polymerized into PET.

Through the partnership with Landbell Group in Germany, the supply of multilayer trays through the CITEO tender in France  and the MoU with Indorama Ventures, CARBIOS will have sourced over 70% of its feedstock required for the 50kt/year capacity when its first commercial plant in Longlaville, France, will operate at full capacity. Close to the borders with Belgium, Germany and Luxembourg, the plant’s location is strategic for nearby waste supplies.

Through this partnership with CARBIOS, Landbell Group will ensure that the problematic PET fractions such as multilayered, colored and opaque trays from packaging waste and polyester textile waste are redirected towards recycling. In this way, Landbell Group strengthens its commitment to the development of recycling solutions to enable a circular economy.

Fibre Extrusion Technology Ltd (FET) of Leeds, UK has appointed Dr Kristoffer Kortsen as Senior Materials and Process Scientist. He will report directly to R&D Manager, Dr Jonny Hunter, who joined FET in early 2023 in a growing Research and Development team.

Kortsen’s main area of work is in Gel Spinning of UHMWPE (Ultra-High Molecular Weight Polyethylene). His contribution will help provide gel spinning expertise and equipment in the near future to a range of industries including medical, aerospace, defence aerospace and marine.

He completed a Master’s in chemistry at KU Leuven, graduating magna cum laude in 2018. For his Master’s placement, he worked on the production of impact modifier additives for PVC at Kaneka Belgium. Continuing a partnership with this international chemical manufacturing company, he joined the Howdle group at the University of Nottingham for a PhD project looking into the industrial potential of scCO₂ dispersion polymerisations for additive production. After graduating, he worked in the Shaver group at the University of Manchester, developing a holistic approach to plastics recycling and sustainability across the many stakeholders in the field.

Nearly 8,000 international visitors came to meet the 1,300 exhibitors at Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris. This year's event was enhanced by a boldly designed showcase in the heart of Paris.
The offer was broader, more diversified and more accessible. Despite increasing requirements in the industry, visitor numbers remained stable. It was on these two objective notes that the latest edition of the Texworld and Apparel Sourcing Paris trade shows for the fashion industry came to a close, held from 5 to 7 February 2024 at the Paris Expo Porte de Versailles. During these 3 days, nearly 8,000 visitors came to meet 1,300 weaving and clothing companies from 25 countries on the two levels of Hall 7 (7.2 and 7.3).

Visitors: a Euro-Mediterranean Top 5
This unprecedented concentration of international companies in Europe, which exceeds in number that of February 2019, is a reminder of the central role of European markets for the global fashion industry. This position is confirmed by the weight of buyers from the Euromed zone in the visitor structure: Top 5 is concentrated around buyers from France (20% of the total, up sharply on 2023), the UK (8.3%), Italy (7.9%), Turkey (7.2%) and Spain (6.8%). This Parisian event is proving to be an essential point of contact between designers, buyers and suppliers of fabrics or finished products.

Making the offer ever more accessible “Despite the slowdown in the clothing market, Europe remains a major market for textile and finished goods manufacturers" explains Frédéric Bougeard, President of Messe Frankfurt France. “For some players, it is becoming a strategic market to offset the uncertainties weighing on the Russian and American markets" he continues. Our mission is to fulfill our role as a market place, to adapt to these changes and to make the international offer more and more accessible." The February event also highlighted near sourcing. Nine Ukrainian companies grouped together under the banner of the Ukrainian Association of Textile and Leather Industry Companies (Ukrlegprom), as well as Bulgarian, Italian and Dutch companies, were able to take advantage of the show's visibility to include their expertise in the sourcing plans of French and European buyers.

Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris, a new name for our trade fairs
Reflecting the adaptation of Messe Frankfurt France's strategy to changes in the market, Texworld Evolution Paris is changing its name to Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris. This move reflects developments in fashion sourcing and the expansion of brand universes. A growing number of buyers now want to be able to select materials, while also sourcing finished products directly to complement collections or expand their range. The new name is accompanied by a new dual baseline - Weaving the future; sourcing I business I solutions - to underline these developments and reinforce the fairs' service-led positioning.

From 1 to 3 July 2024 at Porte de Versailles
This new signature will be fully expressed at the next edition of Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris, including Avantex and Leatherworld, which will take place from 1 to 3 July 2024 in Hall 7 (7.2 and 7.3) of the Paris Expo Porte de Versailles. The show, which will remain the same size and offer a more selective range of products, will reflect this convergence between textiles and finished products. This session will also have no interaction with the Paris 2024 Olympic Games, which are due to open on 26 July, three weeks after Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris

The Lenzing Group has updated its climate targets to align with the goals of the Paris Agreement to limit the human-induced global temperature increase to 1.5 degrees Celsius. The Science Based Targets Initiative (SBTi) has reviewed and confirmed this target improvement.

By 2030, Lenzing aims to reduce its direct emissions from the production of its fiber and pulp plants (scope 1) and its emissions from purchased energy (scope 2) by 42 percent and its indirect emissions along the value chain (scope 3) by 25 percent on the way to net zero, from 2021 baseline. This corresponds to an absolute reduction of 1,100,000 tons (instead of the previously targeted 700,000 tons).

The following targets were recognized and confirmed by the SBTi:

1. Overall net-zero target: Lenzing AG commits to reach net-zero greenhouse gas emissions along the entire value chain by 2050.
2. Near-term targets: Lenzing AG commits to reduce absolute scope 1 and scope 2 greenhouse gas emissions by 42 percent by 2030 from a base year 2021. Lenzing AG also commits to reduce absolute scope 3 greenhouse gas emissions from purchased goods and services, fuels and energy-related activities as well as upstream transport and distribution by 25 percent within the same timeframe.
3. Long-term targets: Lenzing AG commits to reduce absolute scope 1 and scope 2 greenhouse gas emissions by 90 percent by 2050 from a base year 2021. Lenzing AG also commits to reduce absolute scope 3 greenhouse gas emissions by 90 percent within in the same timeframe.

These updated targets replace the old SBTi approved Lenzing Group’s climate target in 2019.

“From Earth to Earth”: The new plan defines goals and concrete actions in Environmental, Social and Governance (ESG) areas to foster value creation for all stakeholders and put new sustainability regulatory requirements at the centre of attention.

A project, designed to enhance RadiciGroup's transparency and commitment to develop a responsible business along its entire value chain from an economic, social and environmental perspective and focus on the ever more widespread and stringent sustainability regulatory requirements. These are the features and goals of the Sustainability Plan presented by the Group and called "From Earth to Earth", precisely to emphasize the intent to focus on the Earth and future generations.

In the context of a complex and constantly changing scenario, the Group has therefore decided to capitalize on the goals achieved and look beyond them with a plan defining the medium-term targets and the actions to be taken to fulfil them and covering all areas considered to be "material”, i.e., relevant from the point of view of ESG and financial risks, opportunities and impacts. Indeed, the ultimate goal of "From Earth to Earth" is to support business continuity and the growth of the company and all its stakeholders.

The project was the result of a multi-year collaboration with Deloitte, which contributed an external and objective viewpoint on the definition of the material targets and themes. However, it was not an armchair exercise, but the result of an extensive listening process involving internal and external stakeholders, all of whom were sustainability experts who helped define a shortlist of strategic themes for both the Group and its main stakeholders. These issues were then analysed in detail using working tables on the different themes to identify the objectives in Environmental, Social and Governance areas and the related concrete actions needed to achieve them, in line with the European decarbonization and energy transition policies and the
United Nations Sustainable Development Goals, a global blueprint for sustainable growth.

In particular, RadiciGroup’s environmental goals include: a 20% increase and differentiation in renewable source electricity consumption, an 80% reduction in total direct greenhouse gas emissions by 2030 compared to 2011, attention to water consumption to limit the impact on local communities and biodiversity, the extension of Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) methodology to measure the environmental impact of 70% of the products (in terms of weight) manufactured by the entire Group, collaboration among the various actors in the supply chain from an ecodesign perspective and the search for increasingly more sustainable and circular packaging solutions.

The fashion industry, which has strategic importance for the Turkish economy with its value-added production, employment, and exports, came together with representatives of global brands and Laison offices at the 'Green transformation' summit. At the meeting hosted by the Istanbul Apparel Exporters' Association (IHKIB), the studies carried out in the process of adaptation to the Green Deal were put under the spotlight, and the expectations of the Turkish fashion industry from the stakeholders were also expressed.

The opening of the meeting, attended by representatives of relevant ministries and foreign representations, national and international fund providers, as well as brands and buying groups were brought together, was made by Türkiye Exporters Assembly (TIM) and IHKIB President Mustafa Gültepe. In his speech, Gültepe underlined Türkiye's importance in the global apparel industry, by realizing approximately 3.5 percent of world apparel exports. Gültepe continued as follows:

"As IHKIB, we aim to increase our current annual exports, which are around $20 billion, to $40 billion. The road to the goal goes through Europe and America because the European Union is our largest market in apparel. We export 60 percent of our total apparel exports to EU countries. When we add other European countries and the USA, the ratio approaches 75 percent. While working on alternatives for the $40 billion in exports, we need to focus more on the European and U.S. markets because, as the data shows, the path to $40 billion in apparel exports goes through Europe and the U.S. We already have long-standing collaborations with brands centered in Europe and America. With our knowledge, speed, production quality, design power, and geographical proximity to Europe, we distinguish ourselves from competitors. We took a very important step in the transformation process exactly one year ago. We shared our action plan, which is a road map for our fashion industry's compliance with the Green Deal, with the public on January 30, 2023."

After Mustafa Gültepe's opening speech, Euratex Director General Dirk Vantyghem, Deputy Director General of the Ministry of Trade Bahar Güçlü, and Deputy Secretary General of ITKIB Özlem Güneş made presentations regarding the ongoing efforts in the Green Deal process.

Dirk Vantyghem discussed the sustainability strategy of the textile and apparel industry and the expectations from the EU administration, while Bahar Güçlü provided information about the reflections of legal regulations related to the Green Deal on Türkiye.

Deputy Secretary General of ITKIB Özlem Güneş emphasized the significant opportunity that the Green Deal represents for the Turkish apparel industry, providing comprehensive insights into the efforts conducted by IHKIB regarding the Green Deal adaptation process.

• EBITDA of around EUR 300 million expected for 2023
• Non-cash impairment losses of up to EUR 480 million
• Implementation of the performance program fully on track

The annual valuation of assets in accordance with IFRS for the entire Lenzing Group both nationally in Austria and internationally, has resulted in a projected asset impairment of up to EUR 480 million for the 2023 financial year.¹ The reasons for the impairment requirements are, on the one hand, continued uncertainties in the economic environment and, on the other hand, still increased raw material and energy costs as well as a higher interest rate environment.

The impairment losses are non-cash effective and have no impact on the full-year EBITDA for 2023, but do affect EBIT for the 2023 financial year. The Managing Board is specifying the previous earnings forecast for the 2023 financial year (EBITDA: EUR 270 – 330 million) and expects an EBITDA of around EUR 300 million.

Stephan Sielaff, Chief Executive Officer of the Lenzing Group: “In the third quarter of 2023, we responded to the persistently difficult market environment and launched a comprehensive performance program, which we have been consistently implementing since then with a focus on positive free cash flow and stronger sales and margin growth. We can therefore confirm our earnings forecast with an EBITDA of around EUR 300 million. The valuation adjustment in accordance with IFRS does not change the strategic orientation of the Lenzing Group.”

Nico Reiner, Chief Financial Officer, adds: “The implementation of the performance program is going according to plan. In the future, cost measures alone are expected to contribute more than EUR 100 million to earnings annually, of which more than EUR 50 million will already be effective for the 2024 financial year. We are on target, particularly in terms of strengthening free cash flow, and we also achieved positive free cash flow in the fourth quarter. The revaluation of assets is now consistent and the right step for the future direction.”

The 2023 annual results will be presented on March 15, 2024.
 

¹ Subject to potential changes resulting from the ongoing financial audit

A new research project links some of Denmark's leading researchers in PFAS remediation with artificial intelligence. The goal is to develop and optimise a new form of wastewater and drinking water treatment technology using artificial intelligence for zero-pollution goals.

In a new research and development project, researchers from Aarhus University aim to develop a new technology that can collect and break down perpetual chemicals (PFAS) in one step in a purification process that can be connected directly to drinking water wells and treatment plants.

The project has received funding from the Villum Foundation of DKK 3 million, and it will combine newly developed treatment technology from some of Denmark's leading PFAS remediation researchers with artificial intelligence that can ensure optimal remediation.

"In the project, we will design, construct and test a new, automated degradation technology for continuous PFAS degradation. We’re also going to set up an open database to identify significant and limiting factors for degradation reactions with PFAS molecules in the reactor," says Associate Professor Xuping Zhang from the Department of Mechanical and Production Engineering at Aarhus University, who is co-heading the project in collaboration with Associate Professor Zongsu Wei from the Department of Biological and Chemical Engineering.

Ever since the 1940s, PFAS (per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances) have been used in a myriad of products, ranging from raincoats and building materials to furniture, fire extinguishers, solar panels, saucepans, packaging and paints.

However, PFAS have proven to have a number of harmful effects on humans and the environment, and unfortunately the substances are very difficult to break down in nature. As a result, the substances continuously accumulate in humans, animals, and elsewhere in nature.

In Denmark, PFAS have been found in drinking water wells, in surface foam on the sea, in the soil at sites for fire-fighting drills, and in many places elsewhere, for example in organic eggs. It is not possible to remove PFAS from everything, but work is underway to remove PFAS from the groundwater in drinking water wells that have been contaminated with the substances.

Currently, the most common method to filter drinking water for PFAS is via an active carbon filter, an ion-exchange filter, or by using a specially designed membrane. All of these possibilities filter PFAS from the water, but they do not destroy the PFAS. The filters are therefore all temporary, as they have to be sent for incineration to destroy the accumulated PFAS, or they end in landfills.

The project is called 'Machine Learning to Enhance PFAS Degradation in Flow Reactor', and it aims to design and develop an optimal and permanent solution for drinking water wells and treatment plants in Denmark that constantly captures and breaks down PFAS, while also monitoring itself.

"We need to be creative and think outside the box. I see many advantages in linking artificial intelligence with several different water treatment technologies, but integrating intelligence-based optimisation is no easy task. It requires strong synergy between machine learning and chemical engineering, but the perspectives are huge," says Associate Professor Zongsu Wei from the Department of Biological and Chemical Engineering at Aarhus University.