From the Sector

Dilo Temafa, a specialist in machinery and equipment for fibre preparation and natural fibre processing, announces the sale of a line extension to Eco-Technilin. The machines will complement an existing flax fibre preparation plant in France to enable higher fibre quality.

Eco-Technilin, a producer of sustainable materials, has chosen the machines to expand its production capacity and increase its efficiency. The plant expansion is specifically designed to efficiently clean flax scutcher tow and meet the high demands of modern manufacturing, while increasing process stability and plant availability.

Dilo Temafa has been active in the field of natural fibre extraction for more than thirty years and has supplied numerous systems for the processing of bast fibres, e.g. flax and industrial hemp. The fibres obtained are used in various industries, including the construction, automotive, nonwovens and textile industries, and make a contribution to minimising the ecological footprint.

Dibella is making life easier for its textile service customers with a new service: on request, hotel textiles can be ordered with Datamars transponders directly ex works. The chips are permanently available at the Dibella warehouse - the goods are delivered fully equipped.

To relieve its customers, Dibella now offers a new RFID-based laundry tracking service: On request, the company equips textiles ex works with LaundryChips (RFID tags), from Datamars (CH). Dibella is cooperating directly with the Swiss company for this unique service. Customers do not have to worry about ordering or providing the tags - saving them time and effort.

Cost advantage
This new system offers a cost advantage because: It is much more cost effective to send large batches of chips bundled together for production than to make hundreds of shipments per year for each individual order. Handling costs are increasing and shipping costs, especially overseas, have risen immensely. In addition, the customs authorities in some countries are very strict when it comes to importing chips, and this new system also minimizes the risk of customs-related delivery delays.

Transponder data as a future service
Another service is already in the pipeline: Dibella will soon offer the option of directly reading out the LaundryChips in its main warehouse and providing them as a CSV file together with the delivery note. This will eliminate the work step of scanning new goods for the textile service - when the goods arrive, the CSV file is simply entered into the system and can then be fed directly into the laundry cycle.

As there are different chip systems from company to company, this solution cannot be implemented directly for all textile service companies - but Dibella wants to develop further.

Benefits of RFID for laundries and their customers
The RFID technology not only improves efficiency, reduces losses and increases profitability in the laundry industrial process. RFID also improves the quality of service that the textile services can offer to their customers, thanks to a more efficient workflow and instant data exchange between textile services and their customers. No more worries or discussions about lost textiles: the customer knows exactly how many and which pieces have arrived/departed from/to the laundry. In this way, transparency with the customer is improved and invoicing can be based on reliable data. In addition, portable RFID readers allow for automated and quick daily inventory at the customer’s site to request clean textiles from the laundry on time.

CARBIOS and TOMRA Textiles, a tech venture set up by the sorting technology company TOMRA, announce the signing of an agreement to collaborate on establishing an efficient stream in Northern Europe from textile waste collection, sorting and preparation to recycling using CARBIOS’ enzymatic depolymerization technology at its first commercial plant currently under construction in Longlaville, France

The monomers obtained will be used to produce recycled polyester (r-PET) fiber, closing the loop for polyester textile circularity.

The innovations from both TOMRA Textiles and CARBIOS contribute to addressing critical gaps in the value chain and significantly increase textile-to-textile recycling from its current rate of 1%¹. By accelerating a circular economy for polyester, a sustainable alternative to incineration or landfill is made available.

TOMRA Textiles is on a mission to close the gap in textile circularity, by contributing to designing and scaling textile sorting plants. Under this partnership agreement, TOMRA Textiles will explore specific, tangible measures to enable the preparation of post-consumer polyester waste for biorecycling according to CARBIOS’ specifications.

CARBIOS' biorecycling technology involves breaking down polyester fibers into their basic components using enzymes, which are then used to produce high-quality recycled PET materials such as fibers for the textile industry. The breakthrough collaboration with TOMRA will redirect the challenging PET fraction of polyester textile waste towards biorecycling, showcasing a mutual dedication to pioneering recycling solutions for a circular economy.

¹ Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 2017

Beaulieu International Group is investing €5 million to transition the fossil based energy supply of its Cushion Vinyl production plant in Wielsbeke, Belgium, to bio mass generated steam supply. A transition to renewable energy. To this end, B.I.G. is collaborating with A&U Energie, a company that converts non-recyclable wood waste into green energy and heat. This strategic move aligns with B.I.G.'s commitment to reach ‘net zero’ for their operations by 2030.

The transition from fossil energy to green steam and the switch to waste gas treatment without direct fossil energy brings significant benefits. First, the switch in technology will lead to 88% reduction in their Belgian Cushion Vinyl carbon footprint related to heat supply and waste gas treatment, compared to the current emissions. Second, the use of steam heating and electric energy provides improved energy efficiency. In addition, the use of steam systems is known for its safety and reliability, providing a safer and more stable heating solution for the Belgian Cushion Vinyl facility. Moreover, the switch to steam and electric energy allows for the use of green electricity in the future, if available.

In addition to transitioning to 100% green energy, Beaulieu International Group is also dedicated to advancing the circular economy. These efforts encompass various initiatives, including increasing the use of recycled and reused materials. For example, 50% of B.I.G.'s PVC floor coverings are already fully recyclable. Additionally, they are actively working to reduce the environmental impact of their solutions by 42% at the end of their life cycle, striving to minimize product emissions to nearly zero, and eliminating pollutants. Recently at the Belgian Flanders Flooring Days, Beauflor launched its Twilight collection, a cushion vinyl floor created with PVC from 100% bio and circular sources resulting in a 40% reduced CO₂ footprint compared to their conventional heterogeneous CV flooring for residential applications

Furthermore, their cushion vinyl brand Beauflor launched the ReLive concept, a specialized program designed for a circular future, ensuring the collection, sorting, and recycling of PVC flooring cutting waste. Currently, this program focuses on post-installation waste and is exclusively available in France, with the goal of expanding its reach to other EU countries.

Through the establishment of strategic partnerships dedicated to finding innovative ways to repurpose waste materials previously slated for incineration, B.I.G. underscores its commitment to sustainable solutions and collaboration with like-minded organizations. 75% of B.I.G.'s post-industrial waste is now being successfully recycled.

drupa 2024 in Düsseldorf drew to a successful close on 7 June after eleven days. 1,643 exhibitors from 52 nations presented a showcase of innovations in the Düsseldorf exhibition halls and thrilled the trade visitors with performances. The international share of the visitors was 80%, with attendees coming from 174 countries. After Europe, Asia was the most strongly represented region with 22%, followed by America with 12%.  Asia as well as Latin America and the MENA region are markets with great growth potential, which was reflected in the significant increase in exhibitors' presence and order books.

Exhibitors praised the high level of decision-making competence of visitors. They, in turn, gave top marks to the range of products and services on offer in the 18 exhibition halls. Around 96% of all visitors confirmed that they had fully achieved the objectives associated with their visit. At over 50%, most of them came from the printing industry, followed by the packaging industry, whose share has increased significantly and which was the focus of many exhibitors as a growth driver. In total, 170,000 trade visitors attended drupa 2024.

Digitalisation
Automation took centre stage at this year’s drupa, with a strong focus on AI and smart workflows, including software solutions. It became clear that digital and analogue technologies ideally complement and benefit from each other. Traditional industry leaders presented a wide range of digital solutions, while digital pioneers integrated conventional components into their offerings. Robotics played an important role in the exhibition halls and illustrated the path towards the smart factory.

Transformation and growth
drupa made it clear that the industry has great potential for the future, even against the backdrop of many challenges, and that the prospects are promising. In the last financial year, the global printing industry achieved a turnover of around EUR 840 billion (source: Smithers) and continues to develop at varying pace worldwide.
Many new strategic alliances concluded at the trade fair reflected the opportunities that are only possible in such a concentrated form at drupa.

Sustainable technologies
Technology is the key to achieving sustainability goals - exhibitors at drupa illustrated this with numerous practice-orientated developments and concrete solutions. Top priority is given to resource efficiency and the path to a functioning circular economy. In addition, Touchpoint Sustainability from the VDMA, the German Machinery and Equipment Manufacturers’ Association, showcased current state of the art innovations, presented best-practice use cases and gave a far-reaching outlook into the future of a sustainable printing industry.

Knowledge transfer
The supporting programme with its five special forums drupa cube, drupa next age (dna) and the Touchpoints Packaging, Textile and Sustainability was well received. In times of constant change and the resulting new business models, they ensured an intensive transfer of knowledge and provided important guidance. Guided tours on various key topics rounded off the trade fair experience.

The next drupa will be held in 2028.

Electronics For Imaging, Inc. reported that at drupa 2024, running through 7 June at Messe Düsseldorf, it is highlighting its expertise in single-pass printing solutions for packaging, display graphics, and textile markets.

Visitors to EFI’s stand will see some of the companies latest single-pass innovations live, including the Packsize® EFI™ X5® Nozomi, a full-colour, on-demand, right-sized box system that prints, cuts, creases, glues, and erects customised boxes at the rate of up to one box every 6 seconds, and the EFI Nozomi 14000 SD single pass printer for sign and display. The company is also showcasing a vast array of applications produced on the new Nozomi 14000 AQ true water-based, single pass printer for corrugated packaging and displays and the Nozomi 12000 MP single-pass technology for direct-to-metal package printing, as well as the next generation EFI Reggiani BOLT XS single-pass textile printer.

In addition to showcasing single-pass inkjet printing at the show, EFI is also introducing two new software solutions that add to the value of single-pass technology, including:

• EFInsight, cloud-based intelligence that optimises the operational efficiency and TCO of EFI packaging, display graphics, or textile digital inkjet printing systems with cloud-based data collection, analytics, reporting, proactive maintenance, and process control tools. It delivers the insights needed to understand the economics of production and the tools to maximise inkjet printer investments. It is currently available for EFI Nozomi single-pass printers for packaging.
• EFI’s Life Cycle Assessment tool for Nozomi printers, which documents Nozomi’s environmental footprint, developed in partnership with Clean Agency. This tool, which EFI customers and their customers can use, analyses their CO2 emissions as part of their overall packaging Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR), and has proven that printing corrugated materials on the EFI Nozomi digital press reduces Global Warming Potential (GWP) by over 50% when compared to analogue printing technologies.

• CARBIOS, L’OCCITANE en Provence and Pinard Beauty Pack join forces to establish an efficient European value chain for PET circularity
• The 100% biorecycled transparent bottle (from enzymatic recycling) will be on display at CARBIOS’ booth D02 at “Edition Spéciale” by LuxePack, held 4-5 June at the Carreau du Temple in Paris
• A key step towards achieving L'OCCITANE en Provence's eco-design commitment of 100% retail bottles made from 100% post-consumer recycled PET by 2027

CARBIOS and L’OCCITANE en Provence, an international cosmetics brand using natural and organic ingredients and long-term partner of CARBIOS, present a bottle in transparent PET made entirely from enzymatic recycling for a shower oil from the Amande range. In collaboration with converter Pinard Beauty Pack, this bottle exemplifies a shared desire to build en efficient European recycling sector to accelerate the transition to a circular economy for plastic, and meet brands' commitments for more sustainable packaging solutions. The bottle will be on display at CARBIOS’ Stand D02 at “Edition Spéciale” by LuxePack, the trade show dedicated to sustainable premium packaging, to be held on 4-5 June 2024 at the Carreau du Temple in Paris.

The 100% recycled PET bottle from CARBIOS' enzymatic depolymerization process was made with a European value chain committed to responsible consumption of sustainable materials. The bottle’s production began with the local supply of PET waste (already collected, sorted and prepared) to the CARBIOS industrial demonstrator in Clermont-Ferrand, France. The waste used consisted of colored bottles, multilayer trays and mechanical recycling residues, none of which are currently recycled using conventional technologies. CARBIOS deconstructed the PET waste into its original monomers, PTA and MEG, using its biorecycling technology. The resulting monomers were then repolymerized into new, fully recycled PET resins within Europe. In Oyonnax, France, these resins were blow-molded by Pinard Beauty Pack to create bottles according to L’OCCITANE’s specifications, and then filled with its shower oil at its Manosque plant.

Archroma is bringing its new SUPER SYSTEMS+ concept and key denim innovations to Denim Première Vision Milan on June 5 and 6 and Denimsandjeans Vietnam on June 26 and 27.

From classic blue jeans to fashion-forward designs with fresh cuts, colors and finishes, denim remains one of the most popular fabrics worldwide. At the same time, the industry is beginning to question traditional production methods that use considerable water and energy and also have limitations in terms of the selection of chemicals and dyes that are clean and safe.

Archroma will demonstrate its solutions at Denim Première Vision Milan and Denimsandjeans Vietnam, including SUPER SYSTEMS+ for Denim. SUPER SYSTEMS+ are end-to-end systems developed by Archroma to allow brands and mills to make an impact by saving resources, delivering more durable apparel or adopting cleaner chemistries, or by choosing enhanced outcomes in all three areas at once. The suite encompasses wet processing solutions from sizing to finishing; durable colors and functional effects that add value; and cleaner chemistries that go beyond compliance to anticipate future restrictions.

Trade show visitors will also be able to explore Archroma’s new DENIM HALO, a laser-friendly and easy washable denim, as well as a range of other product innovations, such as DIRESUL® EVOLUTION BLACK, DENISOL® PURE INDIGO 30 and EarthColors®.

DIRESUL® EVOLUTION BLACK is Archroma’s cleanest sulfur black dyestuff. Manufactured using fewer resources, it has an overall impact reduction to 57% during dye synthesis compared to standard Sulfur Black 1 liquid.* Importantly, it also offers mills the opportunity to deliver unique shade and wash-down effects that stand out in the market.

DENISOL® PURE INDIGO 30 LIQ is an aniline-free** pre-reduced indigo that creates authentic denim look with the same performance and efficiency as conventional indigo dye, but in a way that can reduce the risk of pollution. Furthermore, it is produced in an aniline-free** process to help enable cleaner denim production.

EarthColors® is a patented Archroma technology that creates high-performance biowaste-based dyes from non-edible food and agricultural waste, leaving the edible part available for consumption. EarthColors® dyes are fully traceable and help reduce the industry’s overall impact on the water footprint. Since they upcycle waste from other industries, they also help contribute to a circular economy.

* Ecotarrae lifecycle analysis
** Below limits of detection according to industry standard test methods

Multiple global regulations set to take effect in the coming years have made traceability an imperative for retailers and brands. These include the Digital Product Passport, the Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive, and the New York Fashion Sustainability and Social Accountability Act, to name a few.

While companies are aware of the importance of traceability, research indicates that they are not prepared to comply with upcoming legislation. A recent KPMG survey highlighted that 43% of executives at major enterprises had no visibility or were “largely unclear” about the performance of their Tier 1 suppliers. At the same time, only 28% of companies had clear visibility into Tier 2 suppliers.

TradeBeyond’s recently published Supply Chain Traceability Guide, the latest installment of its Retail Sourcing Report series, highlights the myriad challenges that companies face in implementing effective traceability programs. This report is relevant for all industries, and is especially topical for the apparel and footwear sectors, which are under increasing scrutiny to enhance traceability to ensure sustainability.

The report highlights retail’s slow progress in achieving transparency, as evidenced by the Fashion Transparency Index, which found that the average transparency score across 250 of the world’s largest brands and retailers was just 23%. That suggests that progress on transparent disclosure of social and environmental data is still lagging.
 
The report shows that brands fall short on most key measures of sustainability and traceability, including publishing a responsible code of conduct and providing visibility into their Scope 3 carbon footprint. The United Nations Economics Commission found that only a third of the top one hundred global clothing companies track their own supply chains. One of the obstacles is complexity. More than two-thirds (69%) of fashion companies report that complexity of their global business networks is an obstacle to visibility.

In addition to a lack of visibility, false sustainability claims are also rampant. Greenpeace found that in the apparel and footwear sector, 39% of sustainability claims are false or deceptive. Lack of third-party verification of ESG measures is also rampant.

The highest scoring brands in the 2023 Fashion Transparency Index included luxury brands such as Gucci and retailers such Target Australia, Kmart Australia, OVS, and Benetton. These companies back up their commitment with solid action on multiple measures of traceability.

Along with legislative requirements, consumers are a key driving force pushing companies to improve their traceability initiatives. McKinsey research found that 66% of consumers consider transparency to be a key factor when making a purchase decision and 73% of consumers would pay more for products with transparency into production and sourcing.

The report also highlights key challenges to overcome in the journey to traceability, including effective communication between stakeholders, compliance with new regulations, technology barriers, and data complexity.

On the positive side, the industry is responding with sophisticated technology, including software systems that incorporate artificial intelligence and blockchain-enabled traceability, which provide the required visibility and compliance.

Traceable fiber technology, which allows for traceability from the material origin of a product until its end-life, provides the option of a “fiber-forward” rather than a “product backward” approach to achieving traceability.

Aside from the regulatory and consumer drivers, there is a strong business case for implementing traceability, which includes cost savings, operational efficiency, brand protection and reducing supply chain risk. As such, TradeBeyond expects a rapid evolution in traceability programs across industries, especially in those that lag in best-practices.

While there has been considerable progress in recent years toward accurately tracing the complete origins of products, much more needs to be done. Brands and retailers must intensify their efforts to stay compliant with escalating regulations and align with evolving consumer preferences.

KM.ON launches its new Quality Monitoring System (QMS) for the retrofit market at ITM from June 4 to 8 in Istanbul, presenting a solution for quality management on warp knitting machines.
For its performance in defect detection, the QMS uses the advances of our time: a camera system that captures images of the production process, and a specialized artificial intelligence (AI) to analyze the images. Particularly in terms of handling, reliability and precision of defect detection, the QMS from KM.ON offers advantages over conventional systems that do not rely on AI analysis.

The QMS is designed for easy setup and can be operated without prior expertise. If a defect causes the machine to come to a standstill, the operator is informed immediately via a user-friendly interface. The immediate warning enables rapid intervention and therefore less downtime and more productivity.

Thanks to its conceptual design, the QMS only stops production when actual defects are detected. Unnecessary interruptions caused by external disruptive factors, such as changing light conditions, are avoided. This precision prevents productivity losses and helps to ensure continuous operation. Costs due to unnecessary machine downtime are avoided.

Unlike conventional camera systems, the QMS detects even the most complex defects and triggers an immediate machine stop. This minimizes material waste. During operation, the AI-controlled system learns from the data to enhance its detection accuracy, thereby reducing the reject rate and costs. The QMS also adapts to evolving production environments to ensure consistently high efficiency.