From the Sector

Manufacturer of activewear and swimwear, Active Apparel Group (AAG), has committed to a structured approach in reducing its environmental impact across its global operations through an Environmental Management System (EMS). The EMS, built using the ISO14001 Standard Framework, incorporates key environmental policy commitments and has set targets and strategies to reduce the carbon footprint of its operations across China, Australia and USA.

Through a third-party audit of its greenhouse gas emissions (GHGs), AAG has identified the following areas of focus to reduce impacts:

• Reduction in Scope 1 energy use
• Reduction in air freight
• Reduction in water usage across the business
• Ongoing collection and management of production waste
• Increased use of sustainable materials
• Continued collection of GHG data for ongoing improvement

AAG’s EMS is designed to be embedded within the operations of the business, with functional ownership of targets established and education of the team prioritized, to deliver results on reducing environmental impact. Quarterly reporting of its progress is communicated to stakeholders and reviewed by the company’s Board of Directors.

The EMS is part of AAG’s ongoing Responsible Business Strategy - a company-wide commitment to driving continuous improvement across the areas of Governance, Social and Environmental impact. Other initiatives include Living Wage Audit by Bureau Veritas (AAG pays 100% Living Wage); Materiality Assessment; Supply Chain Traceability Project; Circularity and Waste Management along with annual third-party audits - SMETA, Gold WRAP, Supplier Qualification Program and its Modern Slavery Statement.

Breaking new ground in plastics recycling means assessing the value chain from end to end. The big opportunities for the future are in fine-tuning the individual process steps; from the collection of recyclable materials to the recycling process and the end product. This is where the cooperation of Lindner and the EREMA Group comes in, officially launched following the 50/50 founding of the holding BLUEONE Solutions in August 2023 to which shares of Lindner Washtech were contributed. The expertise of EREMA, a manufacturer of extruders and filtration solutions for plastics recycling and the largest company within the EREMA Group, has now been combined with the expert know-how from Lindner Washtech, a leading provider of all-in-one solutions for shredding, sorting and washing plastic feed materials.

Data transfer ensures more efficient recycling processes
Process control is an especially important aspect of plastics recycling, which is why standardising the process control system was what the two companies focused on first. "Together, we have developed a platform that allows data to be exchanged between the extruder and the washing system," says Manfred Hackl, CEO of the EREMA Group at IFAT in Munich. "This enables us to analyse the data more precisely so that effective improvement measures can be deduced." All key parameters are taken into account and monitored via a digital interface. For example, it is possible to use information relating to the current throughput of the EREMA Pre Conditioning Unit to optimise the washing process as soon as possible so that it can compensate for fluctuations in capacity and achieve a significant increase in output. This data transfer represents a new step on the roadmap to digitalization.

High efficiency due to smart energy management
"To ensure sustainable recycling, it is necessary to find the right process for each application and to make sure that the individual process steps are perfectly coordinated," emphasizes Michael Lackner, Managing Director of Lindner. Coordinating the process steps has already achieved initial success in energy management, and a clear example of this is heat recovery. "We use the latent heat generated during the extrusion process as an energy source for the washing and drying process," explains Lackner. "This enables our customers to sustainably reduce their energy costs and carbon emissions".

Making the most of synergies along the value chain
Synergies need to be used to establish the quality standards specified for each end application. "The key question is how we can improve the end product and increase the overall efficiency of the recycling process at the same time," agree Manfred Hackl and Michael Lackner. This will only work if companies work together along the value chain. The industry leaders can already point to several examples where together they have improved recycling processes and made it possible to move away from downcycling. "An example of this is the recycling loop of HDPE starting material, which is processed into high-quality, food-safe rHDPE pellets using our two technologies," says Lackner. Lindner Washtech and EREMA continue to work intensively together to develop strategies for upcycling plastics and increase recycling rates.

Erstmalig stellt der Fraunhofer Cluster of Excellence Circular Plastics Economy CCPE das Thema »Nachhaltige Geokunststoffe für den Landschaftsbau« auf der ACHEMA 2024 neben dem Thema »Advanced Recycling« vor.

Ist es möglich, Kunststoffe für den Landschaftsbau aus biobasierten Polymeren herzustellen? Können Produkte ohne Umweltprobleme und mit kontrolliertem Abbau hergestellt werden? Genau diesen Fragen, die für eine Vielzahl an kommerziellen Produkten wichtig ist, widmet sich das Fraunhofer CCPE in seinem neuen Forschungsschwerpunkt »Nachhaltige Geokunststoffe für den Landschaftsbau«.

Vom 10. bis 14. Juni 2024 zeigt das Fraunhofer CCPE auf der ACHEMA 2024, wie sich innovative und nachhaltige Materialien für den Einsatz in komplexen Umgebungen designen lassen. Geokunststoffe werden heutzutage bereits für diverse Anwendungen auf Basis nachwachsender Rohstoffe, sowohl Biopolymere als auch z. B. Naturfasern, hergestellt. Hierbei gilt es, sowohl herausfordernden Anforderungen nicht nur initial, sondern über eine vordefinierte Einsatzdauer zu genügen, um gleichzeitig aber für viele Anwendungen vollständig bioabbaubar zu sein. In der Kooperation des Fraunhofer CCPE werden bereits jahrelange Erfahrungen mit Biopolymeren, wie Polylactid (PLA) und Polybutylensuccinat (PBS), sowie mit allen notwendigen Prozessschritten mit Fokus auf die Herstellung hochqualitativer Fasern aus PLA und PBS verfolgt. Flankiert werden diese durch Untersuchungen zu zeitlich definiertem Abbau in Böden und aquatischen Umgebungen sowie durch ökotoxikologische Einschätzungen der Neuentwicklungen, um den raschen Transfer in die Anwendung zu gewährleisten.

Ebenfalls auf der ACHEMA stellt Fraunhofer CCPE das »Advanced Recycling« aus. Gerade bei schwer recycelbaren Abfällen ist es oft eine Herausforderung, das passende Verfahren zu finden. Mit der CCPE-Recyclingkaskade für kunststoffhaltige Abfälle, die aus einer Kombination von drei Fraunhofer-Technologien besteht, können hochwertige Kunststoff-Rezyklate mit optimierter Produktausbeute erzeugt werden. Diese Abfälle umfassen beispielsweise gemischte Verpackungsabfälle, Schredderreste oder Verbundmaterialien, die mit konventionellen, mechanischen Verfahren nicht mehr recycelbar sind. Die Einsatzstoffe werden vorsortiert und dann mit einer Kombination aus drei innovativen Recyclingtechnologien behandelt: lösungsmittelbasierter Prozess, Solvolyse und iCycle® Prozess.

From 20 to 22 July 2024, Innatex will once again host international green fashion labels presenting their collections for Spring/Summer 2025 at Messecenter Hofheim Rhein-Main near Frankfurt. The motto of the upcoming trade fair, ‘BLOOM’, emphasises the confidence in more sustainable solutions despite challenges in the green fashion industry.

The organiser is seeing an increase in enquiries from first-time exhibitors and design dicoveries who work with remnants or waste from the textile and other sectors. The summer fair aims to emphasise this form of circularity.

In keeping with this, three of the five Design Discoveries selected so far are located in the area of textile waste reduction. Tentation uses discarded tents to create modern, mostly outdoor-compatible pieces. While Halt.clothing stands for an innovative upcycling concept, the underwear label Avonté works with deadstocks. Softclox with flexible soles and the very feminine women's fashion Verlinne from Romania enrich the special area.

The trade fair is responding to feedback from buyers and, in cooperation with the Hesse Retail Association, is offering a special expert panel on the last day of the event to provide effective sales strategies. Innovative sustainable space concepts have been developed in collaboration with the Akademie Mode & Design AMD Wiesbaden. The students of the Interior Design degree programme use old materials from the INNATEX trade fair construction.

Vision and technology are the key ingredients of a ground-breaking school blazer that is showing how businesses can move to a circular textiles economy.  
 
While many brands are grappling with the complexities of inevitable legislation and engrained business models, leading school uniform producer, David Luke, has launched a fully recyclable ‘circular’ school blazer that is designed to be recycled through Project Re:claim, the world’s first commercial-scale polyester recycling plant.
 
Project Re:claim is a joint venture between the UK’s largest charity textile collector, The Salvation Army, and leading circularity specialists Project Plan B. The plant opened in the UK in January 2024, and presents huge opportunities for brands to transition to textile-to-textile manufacturing models.
 
David Luke’s circular blazer has been introduced to the brand’s successful Eco-uniform range which has sold over 1.7 million Eco-blazers in the last decade. Up until 2023, David Luke’s Eco-blazer, like many recycled garments, has been made from recycled plastic bottles. But the company has been working with Tim Cross, CEO of Project Plan B and the Circular Textiles Foundation, to bring the 100% recyclable blazer to market.
 
Tim Cross said: “David Luke has grasped the opportunity to embed 100% recyclable and 100% recycled garments into their range, starting with the school blazer. We now have the technology to enable their blazers to be recycled without any separation of the garment, making it an efficient recycling process. The team at David Luke has worked tirelessly with their manufacturers to create a blazer that does not compromise on design or quality, and yet is much kinder to the environment.”
 
Every detail from the lining, buttons and zips to the inter-linings and adhesives, has been re-thought and re-designed to meet the demands of an everyday school blazer and to recycle the garment once it reaches its end-of-life. Up until now, when the blazers have eventually been handed down to siblings, or given to the local charity shop, there had been no end-of-life solution for polyester garments apart from incineration. Now, Project Re:claim can recycle the blazer to produce polyester pellets, which are then spun into yarn to be used for future David Luke circular blazers.
 
Cross continues: “David Luke has the vision to create a fully circular range, and we have the potential to supply recycled content. The possibilities are infinite in terms of the future of garment design and manufacturing.”
 
Kathryn Shuttleworth, Chief Executive of David Luke, said: “It is a natural next step for us to transition to a textile-to-textile model. We have been producing garments using recycled plastic bottles for 15 years, but we have always had an eye on developments in textile recycling and solutions for end-of-life garments.”
 
In 2020, David Luke was awarded the Queen’s award for Enterprise for Sustainable Development and in January 2023 the David Luke circular blazer achieved Circular Foundation Textile certification.
 
Shuttleworth added: “Our focus will always be on those essential ingredients for parents and children - style, durability and affordability. But we have a responsibility to change our business model to better protect children’s future and the environment. It has become our obsession to make uniforms that meet our customers’ demands. We are really excited about the future as we continue to develop our range.”
 
Majonne Frost, Head of Environment and Sustainability for Salvation Army Trading Company, said: “Our vision is to enable companies to produce uniforms, corporate wear, fashion garments and textile ranges using recycled polyester.  We have the infrastructure to collect donations at scale and we now need companies to step up. This is an opportunity for companies to make a commitment to significantly reduce their environmental impact, and David Luke are showing us how that is possible.”

The Trevira CS brand is celebrating its debut at Clerkenwell Design Week (CDW), which takes place in London from May 21-23 2024. The brand is particularly targeting interior architects, interior designers, and contract furnishers to present its innovations on sustainability. Trevira CS stands for flame retardant fabrics that have been tested for fire safety. They also offer numerous sustainable properties.

The London borough of Clerkenwell is home to more creative businesses and architects per square mile than anywhere else in the world, making it one of the most important design hubs in the world. To celebrate this rich and diverse community, Clerkenwell Design Week has created a unique opportunity to showcase the world's leading interior design brands. With more than 600 events in over 160 showrooms, more than 11 curated exhibitions, stunning installations, talks and a supporting program, CDW has established itself as the UK's leading design festival. The Trevira CS stand is part of the "German Collection - home to German Contemporary Design", which brings together a leading selection of renowned German brands.
 
The product range of flame-retardant Trevira® filament yarns now also includes 30 spun-dyed, UV-stable yarns, which are particularly suitable for outdoor use in fabrics in the hospitality sector and on cruise ships due to their high light fastness and UV resistance. They also score points for their sustainable properties, as the fabrics made from them can be produced in a more environmentally friendly way than textiles made from conventional yarns.

Trevira CS fabrics are also available in recycled versions. They consist of fiber and filament yarns that are obtained in various recycling processes. Fabrics made from these yarns can obtain the Trevira CS eco trademark. The prerequisite for this is a recycled content of at least 50%.

Mitte April feierte das Bündnis für nachhaltige Textilien (kurz: Textilbündnis) sein 10-jähriges Bestehen. Die Multi-Akteurs-Partnerschaft besteht aktuell aus rund 120 Unternehmen, Verbänden, Nichtregierungsorganisationen, Gewerkschaften und Standardorganisationen sowie der deutschen Bundesregierung, die das Textilbündnis in Person des damaligen Entwicklungsministers Müller maßgeblich mit initiiert hatte. Ziel des Textilbündnisses ist die Verbesserungen entlang globaler Wertschöpfungsketten in der Textilbranche.
 
Der BTE engagiert sich seit Gründung im Textilbündnis in verschiedenen Arbeitskreisen. Wegen des veränderten regulativen Umfelds kam es Ende 2022 zu einer strategische Neuausrichtung. So wurden neue Anforderungen an die Bündnismitglieder gestellt, z.B. zur erweiterten Transparenz in der Lieferkette. Mit der Umsetzung definierter Fokusthemen entlang der Lieferkette leistet das Textilbündnis einen positiven Beitrag zu zentralen Problemen der weltweiten Textilindustrie, wie z.B. geringe Löhne, hoher Ressourcenverbrauch und Treibhausgas-Emissionen, geschlechterspezifische Gewalt und Diskriminierung sowie bislang oft fehlende Möglichkeiten, auf Missstände am Arbeitsplatz hinzuweisen.
 
Aktuell ist der BTE im Kreislaufwirtschaftsprojekt “Daunen- und Federn-Recycling" eingebunden. Ziel dieses Fokusthemas ist die Erhöhung der Menge an neuen Bettwaren, die mit recycelten Daunen und Federn gefüllt ist.
 
Hinweis: Auf der Webseite des Textilbündnis www.textilbuendnis.com steht eine größere Zahl grundlegender Dokumente als Download zur Verfügung, die in den letzten 10 Jahren das gemeinsame Engagement der Branche verdeutlichen, u.a. Risiken ermitteln und priorisieren, Infopapier Beschwerde- und Abhilfemechanismen, Leitfaden existenzsichernde Löhne, Informationsblätter zu einzelnen Fasern und Textil-Abwassermanagement.

London Marathon Events (LME) partnered with the Salvation Army Trading Company (SATCoL), the trading arm of The Salvation Army, to collect discarded participant clothing at its event in London. On 21st April The Salvation Army collected a record 18.9 tonnes of clothing from the mass participation event.

Salvation Army volunteers and helpers supported to collect clothing discarded by participants prior to the Start line. The clothing was transported to The Salvation Army’s processing centre in the East Midlands for sorting and distribution to be resold, reused or recycled.

The profits that the Salvation Army Trading Company raise, is donated to The Salvation Army to continue to support the work they do across the UK.

The scheme is one of LME’s new sustainability initiatives for 2024 aimed at reducing the environmental impact of its events, with a particular focus on lowering carbon emissions, cutting waste and improving circularity.

The Salvation Army team will continue with the clothing collections at the following events this year:

• Ford RideLondon on Sunday 26 May
• The Big Half on 1 September
• The Vitality London 10,000 on 22 September
• The Royal Parks Half on 13 October

Faserverbundwerkstoffe verfügen über herausragende mechanische Eigenschaften bei gleichzeitig niedriger Dichte. Daraus gefertigte Gegenstände sind leicht und gleichzeitig sehr stabil – das macht sie zum idealen Werkstoff für Sportartikelhersteller über die Automobilindustrie bis hin zur Luft- und Raumfahrt. Statt den bisher üblichen Glas- und Carbonfasern sollen nun zunehmend natürliche Fasern wie Flachs, Hanf oder Jute als Verstärkung eingesetzt werden. Durch ihr Potential während der Herstellung Treibhausgasemissionen und Energie einzusparen, ermöglichen sie eine vergleichsweise günstige Herstellung. Ihre mechanischen Eigenschaften deuten einerseits auf noch nicht ausgeschöpftes Potenzial hin, können jedoch je nach jährlichen Wachstumsbedingungen in ihrer Dichte, Festigkeit oder Steifigkeit stark variieren. Um zukünftig Faserverbundwerkstoffe auf Basis nachwachsender Rohstoffe möglichst effizient, nachhaltig und vor allem wettbewerbsfähig herstellen zu können, bündeln die Hochschule Aalen und das Fraunhofer-IGCV ihre Expertisen hinsichtlich Werkstoff- und Produktionstechnik.

Die Arbeitsgruppe BioComposites mit aktuell noch zwei Forschenden aus beiden Einrichtungen hat zum Ziel, hochwertige biobasierte Faserverbundwerkstoffe für Leichtbauanwendungen zu entwickeln und deren Fertigungsprozesse zu optimieren. Faserverbundwerkstoffe aus biobasierten Komponenten können so – insbesondere in Kombination mit den richtigen Recyclingstrategien – dazu beitragen, dass weniger Schadstoffe in Luft, Wasser und Boden freigesetzt werden

Prof. Dr.-Ing. Iman Taha, Inhaberin des Lehrstuhls für nachhaltige Werkstoffe in der Kunststofftechnik der Hochschule Aalen und Leiterin der Arbeitsgruppe, sieht großes Potenzial in der gemeinsamen Forschung: "Bio-Composites haben ein grünes Image, aber sie bieten noch so viel mehr. Im Gegensatz zu herkömmlichen Verbundwerkstoffen, die oft auf Erdölprodukten basieren, sind Bio-Composites eine ökologische Alternative, die einen wichtigen Beitrag auch zur Reduzierung des CO2-Ausstoßes leisten kann. Damit kommt ihnen eine tragende Rolle zu, unseren Alltag nachhaltiger zu gestalten."

• GOTS Version 7.0 released
• GOTS certified entities grow by 8% and expand to 89 countries
• GOTS releases Due Diligence Handbook for certified entities
• Farm-Gin Registry implemented in India, creating a direct link and better evaluation of incoming data
• GOTS collaborates with European Space Agency and Marple for AI organic cotton project
• #Behindtheseams campaign reaches 21 million+ unique individuals

The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), managed by non-profit Global Standard, recognises 2023 as a year of significant milestones. From expansion of GOTS-certified facilities to the release of a new standard version, GOTS remained a beacon for businesses navigating changing legislation, social and environmental demands.

Coming out of one of the strongest years for GOTS, 2023 culminated with 25 GOTS-approved certification bodies reporting a noteworthy 14,676 certified facilities (an 8% growth from 2022) in 89 countries.

Ushering in GOTS Version 7.0
As of 1 March, facilities that become GOTS-certified will operate under the new GOTS Version 7.0, released in March 2023 with a one-year transition period. GOTS Version 7.0 and its accompanying Implementation Manual provides a comprehensive solution for companies who want to produce organic textiles and be supported to ensure compliance with environmental and human rights due diligence along the entire value chain, from field to finished product.

GOTS Version 7.0 also introduced a six-step due diligence process and handbook that equips GOTS-certified operations to proactively identify, assess and mitigate adverse impacts throughout their value chains.

Looking to the future
GOTS initiated in 2023 two major projects in India, the globe’s largest producer of organic cotton. The Farm-Gin Registry was introduced for the 2022-2023 harvest season, which acts as a link between farm and gin and is a tool to strengthen integrity by collecting organic raw seed cotton data producing farm or farm group.

GOTS, the European Space Agency (ESA) and software company Marple launched a new project that aims to show the potential for remote satellite monitoring of organic cotton cultivation systems. The project trained artificial intelligence (AI) to use ESA satellite data to detect cotton fields across India and automatically classify them according to their cultivation standard. By integrating standardised yield metrics, this innovative approach will enable GOTS to generate realistic estimates of organic cotton yields in specific areas. In addition, the project is expected to empower GOTS to recognise cotton fields that have not yet obtained organic certification but possess the potential for a transition to organic cultivation. The first results of the project will be announced in June.

Educating the consumer
GOTS, in its ongoing commitment to stakeholder education, orchestrated in November an immersive 360-degree awareness and educational campaign. Successfully engaging both consumers and industry professionals, the initiative shined a spotlight on GOTS-certified companies and their products, which empowered consumers to make more conscientious choices while shopping. With an impressive turnout of over 250 certified entities, the campaign made a significant global impact, reaching more than 21 million unique individuals worldwide.