From the Sector

Checkpoint Systems, a provider of source to shopper solutions to the retail industry, has announced the launch of the OPAL Tag. The new pinless article surveillance solution facilitates the protection of footwear, sportswear, outdoor equipment and other hard-to-protect goods.

The one-piece OPAL Tag, developed by Checkpoint’s Alpha High Theft Solutions division, uses a unique locking mechanism that includes small rubber pads. This pinless solution is suitable for a range of goods – including footwear, sportswear, outdoor clothing as well as outdoor and athletics equipment – as it ensures that the device does not damage the items when it is attached or removed.

In addition, the OPAL Tag has two other advantages: It is easy for store associates to apply and remove with just one hand, optimising workflows - and it is unobtrusive, improving the customer experience. For example, if it is attached to a shoe, the customer can still try on the item without having to ask staff for help.

Proven security features
Besides the new, optimised handling, the OPAL Tag has a bandwidth of security features that have proven successful for retailers in preventing theft. These include flashing LED lighting to deter potential thieves, showing them that the security device is live. The OPAL solution is also equipped with Alpha 2 Alarm technology, meaning that an alarm will sound if the device passes by an EAS antenna. Attempts at tampering are also detected in this way.

adidas drops an all-new sportswear capsule. The collection is inspired by the way the next generation continues to turn tradition on its head with how they move through the world, opting for a fresh comfort-first mindset and rejecting old-world pressures.

To get closer to this mindset, adidas reached out to uncover more about the rise of the cosy fit. Nine in ten believe the clothes they wear impact how mentally comfortable they feel, and over three quarters say they are more likely to thrive in multiple aspects of life when rooted in a true feeling of comfort. With this in mind, adidas’ sportswear capsule is built for next-level comfort both at home and on the streets with a full collection of casual, stylish fits for both men and women.

Fronted by a raft of next generation trailblazers, including global award-winning actress Hoyeon, US gymnast sensation Nia Dennis, American football superstar Tua Tagavailoa, and Chinese national sprinting champion Xie Zhenye, the campaign reveals how choosing comfort in mind and body has given them confidence, more internal headspace, and the ability to embrace any challenges within their journey of progress.

Key looks include:

• Women’s Rib Dress: A straight minimalist silhouette in block-colour black, which can be worn individually or layered for a more expressive look. Features a twister racerback detail, crew neck cut, and side split hem for an added edge
• Men’s Classic Tee paired with Woven Pants and Coach Jacket: Paying homage to sport heritage, the woven pants and coach jacket offer an oversized and relaxed fit, in a neutral but bold colour pairing. The ribbed crewneck tee complements the look with a stylish mixture of textures
• Women’s Oversized Hoodie with Rib Crop Top and Biker Shorts: A muted pastel toned top designed with a cropped hem and matching shorts in soft rib knit material, creating an effortless fresh but cosy look which can be easily layered with a slouchy oversized hoodie
• Men’s Fleece Hoodie layered over Oversized Tee and Fleece Shorts: Relaxed fit basic tee with a vibrant red block logo paired with a boxy hooded jumper which boasts an oversized aesthetic. Complemented by baggy fleece-lined shorts ensures comfort through every move and moment

When adidas and Yohji Yamamoto first took to the runway at Paris Fashion week in October 2002 for the inaugural Y-3 collection, the brand with the Three Stripes and the avant-garde Japanese designer changed the worlds of fashion and sportswear. Over ten years later, in 2013, Y-3 introduced one of its most loved sneakers to date – the Y-3 QASA HIGH. Upon arrival, the boundary pushing silhouette made an instant impact in culture, and, having been worn by many of the world’s most forward thinking tastemakers, continues to do so to this day. Now, as adidas and Yohji Yamamoto ring in 20 years of collaboration, the iconic sneaker makes its timely return.

With Y-3 looking back on key moments, designs, materials, and silhouettes from the brand’s history, the Y-3 QASA HIGH once again takes center stage. Instantly identifiable by its expressive EVA outsole, which borrows from adidas’ 90s Tubular running technology, the daring silhouette features a neoprene sock-like upper with stretch mesh, elasticated strapping, a leather toe-cap, and suede heel lining. The avant-garde take on a high top trainer is then completed with a Poron® performance sockliner for cushioning.

EURATEX has just released its Spring report, offering a detailed insight into trade figures for the European textile and apparel industry in 2021. The numbers are encouraging: comparing with the dramatic corona-year 2020, EU exports of textile and clothing articles increased by +10.6%, while imports dipped by -7.5%. As a result, the EU trade deficit improved, even it remains significant (- €48 billion).

Furthermore, import prices went slightly down in clothing and dropped in textiles, following a strong decrease of Chinese import prices of face masks and protective medical supplies.

The boost in exports was mainly due to strong performance on the Swiss, Chinese and US markets. On the other side, EU sales of textile & clothing to the United Kingdom fell sharply (-23%), due to Brexit new requirements, customs’ delays and shortage of truck drivers.  Imports from the EU top supplier, China, plunged by -28%, corresponding to €13 billion. Similarly, textile and clothing imports from the United Kingdom recorded a sharp decrease over the period (-48%, equal to €-3 billion).

Director General Dirk Vantyghem commented: “the 2021 export figures, presented in this Spring report, confirm that EURATEX members have gained momentum; even if energy prices are causing some serious short-term disruptions, our long-term ambition remains to be a world leader on sustainable textiles.”

The international trade dimension is indeed critical for the competitiveness of the European textile ecosystem, and needs to be fully embedded in the EU’s Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles. The Commission insists that “all textile products placed on the EU market, are durable, free of hazardous substances, produced respecting social standards…” This is an essential condition to create a level playing field between all textile and apparel companies, regardless of their production base. With €100 billion of imports, and over 20 billion of “foreign” textile items put on the Single Market, this requires a dramatic upscaling of market surveillance, without however disrupting fluid supply chains.

Looking at the impact of war in Ukraine, EURATEX has strongly condemned the Russian aggression, and offered support to the Ukrainian textile industry. Ukraine offers valuable sourcing opportunities for European textile and apparel brands, as part of a broader nearshoring trend, which seems to emerge from the trade figures.

• Flat knitting is one of the most versatile textile forming technologies. What is possible here is shown by STOLL's regular trend collections.
• STOLL from the KARL MAYER Group launches its new "WONDERFUL" trend collection

The latest compilation of inspiring designer pieces is entitled "WONDERFUL". On display are wonderful products designed to make the viewer pause and marvel. "WONDERFUL" shows what it means to create wonderful knitted articles. In today's world, moments of true wonder seem rare, but with the right technology, creative visions become products that inspire and amaze. With STOLL's technological solutions, wonderful product ideas can be realized for everything that is important to us: our children, our home, our appearance and our well-being.

Accordingly, the new trend collection serves different areas of application: Extraordinary STOLL-knit and wear® products in the new gauge of E 10.2 and in established gauges, such as E 7.2, inspire the market for seamless articles. Extravagant combinations of intarsia, STOLL-weave-in® and STOLL-ikat plating® techniques create novel pattern possibilities, material usages and color impressions. The possibility of individualization is supported by selected products via STOLL-autocreate®.

The trend collection causes amazement, but also stands for responsibility and environmental awareness. One chapter presents a sustainable footwear fabric solution that was created in collaboration with renowned players in textile value creation.

"WONDERFUL" was launched in March 2022. The first presentations took place in front of customers in Italy and were a great success. "Our "WONDERFUL" designs were very well received. Some customers have adopted the new pattern options contained there directly into their current collection, and ordered the necessary technical kids to convert their machines," explains Jörg Hartmann, Head of Fashion & Technology at STOLL with satisfaction.

• March 16-18, 2022, Istanbul Expo Center
• Successful start of Texhibition, Istanbul Fabric and Textile Accessories Fair with over 10,000 visitors from 63 countries
• More than 160 exhibitors presented fabrics, yarns and accessories on approx. 5,000 square meters in the Istanbul Expo Center
• Intensive order activity in a professional trade fair atmosphere of over 1billion US$
• The organizer's objective: to double the area and number of exhibitors for the second event in September

With over 10,000 visitors, the premiere event of Texhibition Istanbul Fabric and Textile Accessories Fair, organized by the Istanbul Textile and Raw Materials Exporters' Association (ITHIB) and the Istanbul Chamber of Commerce (ITO) from March 16th to 18th, 2022 has successfully started.

İTHİB President Ahmet Öksüz: "Our exhibition platforms Texhibition Istanbul Fabric and Textile Accessories Fair and IFCO, Istanbul Fashion Connection, which was launched by our sister association IHKIB in February, play an important role in making Istanbul the fashion center of the Turkish textile and clothing industry. For the follow-up event to Texhibition in September this year, we expect the number of exhibitors and space to double."

The consistently positive feedback from the exhibitors underscores this expectation, as does the great interest shown by international visitors, including those from Denmark, Germany, France, Italy, the Netherlands and the UK.

The Turkish textile industry started with an export target of US$ 15 billion in 2022. The exhibition organizers assume that their platforms will contribute US$ 1 billion. Turkey is one of the most important procurement markets for the European textile industry and is becoming even more important in the course of the global supply chain problem and is now one of the top 3 most interesting procurement locations with its low prices, good quality products, reliable suppliers and short delivery times.

Exhibitors
On offer were high-quality and innovative fabrics from the weaving sector, including Kipaş Textiles, BTD Textile, Özdoku, Bossa and Yünsa; knitters like Gülle, Saka, Örkumod or İskur showed their current collections; yarn market leaders such as Korteks, Tepa and Gama were present, as were Şimşek Ege, EMR Zippers, Çağ-Tek and Öz-El Lastik for the accessories sector. A total of 166 exhibiting companies presented themselves in clearly structured segments in a professional trade fair atmosphere.

Frame program
In the Texhibition Forum, experts discussed the topics Sustainability, New Trends, Supply Chain and GMO-Free Cotton giving an outlook on the upcoming trends and developments in the Turkish textile industry. All events were heavily frequented by visitors.

Next Texhibition September 21-23, 2022

• DUARTE  brings on the runway its SEASON 2 “Eco-Street Dance” collection

By mixing C.L.A.S.S. responsible materials, colorful prints, urban feels and artistic inspiration, the Portuguese streetwear brand creates a new style and a clear yet cool message for conscious fashion consumers.  The rewarded 2021 C.L.A.S.S. Icon Award Portuguese brand Duarte is ready to presents its Fall/Winter 2022/23 collection developed in collaboration with C.L.A.S.S. Eco Hub at ModaLisboa after a first presentation at Milan Fashion Week. From February 24th until 27th, Duarte’s creations have been featured as a special project at WSM (WHITE Sustainable Milano) platform space inside “Unveiling the fashion Backstage”, a docu-event focusing on an immersive journey into the amazing world of premium and smart supply chains that make innovative and responsible fashion wardrobes a reality.

For its second collection Duarte still counts on C.L.A.S.S. support in sourcing materials and communication activities as part of the Icon Award yearly program. The streetwear designer Ana Duarte, with the help of the Milanese hub, is back with a renewed collection that counts 40 pieces continuing the concept and the story behind the previous World Keeper: the irresistible superhero Tadao - Ana Duarte’s dog – fighting against the environmental issues created by mankind and personified as Smog Man (air pollution), Fire Man (climate change), Deforestation Man (forests destruction) and Wave Man (water overconsumption). 

This time the inspiration is also Street Dance drawn directly from the city streets, with majorly unisex pieces (apart from some small specific details linked to sizes or ergonomics) and materials that both respect the planet and keep you warm. The prints drawn from ripped posters giving birth to a sort of new style that we can name “Eco-Street Dance”. The color palette explores the dark shades of grey, cream, blue and black, with artistic pops of color of a hopeful urban culture that tears apart posters from the past and turns them into a new brighter story. 

Talking about materials, the collection presents a selection of urban pieces for everyday superheroes, fighting against environmental issues - with a holistic approach to sustainability values thanks to the synergy with C.L.A.S.S. and its Back in the Loop area: a section dedicated to alternative and sustainable sourcing against the massive amount of materials and textiles produced that are not used and discarded by the fashion system. This is mostly powered by MAEBA International - and its ReLiveTex® fabrics - leader in selecting and repurposing premium Italian fabrics with exceptional 60 years of expertise in collecting high quality materials from leading brands and textile manufacturers, and the first company at an international level to be accredited for the UNI EN ISO 14021 certification which grants the traceability of the collected materials.

The linings complete the full sustainable picture, thanks to Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei fabrics by Gianni Crespi Foderami. Bemberg™ is a new generation material made from the smart-tech transformation of cotton linter pre-consumer material, converted through a traceable and transparent closed loop process. Entirely made in Japan, it comes with Compostability and Ecotoxicity Certifications verified by Innovhub SSI, RCS, OEKOTEX® Standard 100 and the Eco Mark certifications. The factory is ISO 14001 certified, too. 

• Symm-Net articles made using the new MJ 92/1 B impress with their perfectly symmetrical appearance

Lace is a delicate seducer. The more finely crafted its ground structure, the more effective its refined designs come across, and as such, the higher the overall quality. The innovative Symm-Net pieces, which can be produced on KARL MAYER’s new MJ 92/1 B, have a look that sets new standards.

Lace offering maximum clarity and balance
Symm-Net lace is characterised by an extremely delicate design, offering absolute symmetry. This is thanks to the particular configuration of the MJ 92/1 B – the new multi-bar jacquard raschel machine features a split-design jacquard bar with separate threading, and can thus work using both equal and counter lapping. In addition, the newcomer has two ground guide bars at the back for counterlapped elastane. For Symm-Net’s ground structure, GB1 works a pillar notation whilst the jacquard bar works a counter-lapped inlay. The result is a net structure with absolutely symmetrical, clearly defined symmetry. To perfect the geometry, the two elastane bars with split threading – i.e. 1 in, 1 out – and counter-lapping patterning mirror the movement of the jacquard bar.

The lapping patterns thus look as follows:
• JB 91: 0 – 0 / 2 – 2 // and JB 92: 2 – 2 / 0 – 0 //
• GB 93: 0 – 0 / 1 – 1 // and GB 94: 1 – 1 / 0 – 0 //

The ground structure is not only more uniform, but also more stable than its counterparts manufactured with equal lapping. The advantages of Symm-Net are particularly visible when working finer mesh constructions. “When it comes to a delicate appearance, Leavers lace traditionally sets the standard; in particular, Endsor- Net is known for its delicate design. There is hardly any discernible difference with Symm-Net, which should open up new design perspectives, especially for the premium brands in Europe,” explains Jamie Heather, lace expert at KARL MAYER. Symm-Net offers a further advantage thanks to its simple pattern development. For example, the patterning process does not require any updates to the commonly used patterning software, SAPO and ProCad – only the machine database needs to be adapted.

High design flexibility
In addition to the Symm-Net variants, all existing patterns of the OJ 91/1 B, MJ 85/1 B and OJ 83/1 B can be implemented on the MJ 92/1 B in E 24 without restrictions; switching from the new counter lapping to the traditional JACQUARDTRONIC® LACE pattern is seamless. Jamie Heather is certain this flexibility will give customers a real competitive advantage.

All the prerequisites for a bestseller
The MJ 92/1 B has been successfully offered on the market since May 2021. The newcomer is available in gauge E 24, with a working width of 134". Despite its high design flexibility, it still offers first-class productivity. It can also reach speeds of up to 800 rpm when producing Symm-Net articles. To allow for diverse product design, 88 pattern guide bars and two elastane bars, arranged in 16 shogging lines, are available. Thanks to these features, the MJ 92/1 B mainly produces elastic galloon lace, but also all-over lace for stylish lingerie items.

The 2021 C.L.A.S.S. Icon Award Portuguese brand Duarte is ready to presents its Fall/Winter 2022/23 collection developed in collaboration with C.L.A.S.S. Eco Hub during Milan Fashion Week. With the support of WHITE, Duarte’s creations will be featured as a special project at WSM (WHITE Sustainable Milano) platform space inside “Unveiling the fashion Backstage”, a docu-event focusing on an immersive journey into the amazing world of premium and smart supply chains that make innovative and responsible fashion wardrobes a reality.

For its second collection Duarte still counts on C.L.A.S.S. support in sourcing materials and communication activities as part of the Icon Award yearly program. The streetwear designer Ana Duarte, with the help of the Milanese hub, is back with a renewed collection that counts 40 pieces continuing the concept and the story behind the previous World Keeper: the irresistible superhero Tadao - Ana Duarte’s dog – fighting against the environmental issues created by mankind and personified as Smog Man (air pollution), Fire Man (climate change), Deforestation Man (forests destruction) and Wave Man (water overconsumption).

This time the inspiration is also Street Dance drawn directly from the city streets, with majorly unisex pieces (apart from some small specific details linked to sizes or ergonomics) and materials that both respect the planet and keep you warm. The prints drawn from ripped posters giving birth to a sort of new style named “Eco-Street Dance”.

The collection presents a selection of urban pieces for everyday superheroes, fighting against environmental issues - with a holistic approach to sustainability values thanks to the synergy with C.L.A.S.S. and its Back in the Loop area: a section dedicated to alternative and sustainable sourcing against the massive amount of materials and textiles produced that are not used and discarded by the fashion system. This is mostly powered by MAEBA International - and its ReLiveTex® fabrics - leader in selecting and repurposing premium Italian fabrics with exceptional 60 years of expertise in collecting high-quality materials from leading brands and textile manufacturers, and one of the first companies at an international level to be accredited for the UNI EN ISO 14021 certification which grants the traceability of the collected materials.

The linings complete the full sustainable picture, thanks to Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei fabrics by Gianni Crespi Foderami. Bemberg™ is a new generation material made from the smart-tech transformation of cotton linter pre-consumer material, converted through a traceable and transparent closed loop process.

From athleisure to fashion, via underwear, from sarongs to bodysuits, through evening and bridal gowns, up to the world of denim and high fashion, Iluna's lace continues to expand its applications, confirming its versatility, performance and beauty. Trends run and pass quickly, but Iluna lace remains a certainty in all its forms, variations and colors. Since 2017 Iluna has been using only sustainable and certified ROICA™ stretch yarns from the ROICA Eco-Smart™ family, while the percentage of sustainable references has risen from 3% in 2018 to 52% in 2021.
There are four main proposals presented by Iluna Group during Première Vision ( 8-10 February 2022) :

• Flock in flounce or allover entirely made with recycled ingredients and equipped with endless printing possibilities, with 3D and multicolor effects that allow the inclusion in fashion, underwear and athleisure looks. All certified GRS (Global Recycled Standard).
• Continued investment in both the Green Label and Bioline, two collections totally dedicated to innovative and responsible aesthetics. Both include lace made with the responsible 6.6 polyamide yarn Amni Soul Eco® and the degradable stretch fiber ROICA™ V550, combined with natural vegetable dyes with OEKO TEX and GOTS certifications.
• The union of a chenille yarn blended with FSC-certified viscose and Renycle® yarn, a product obtained by recycling nylon 6, a high-value material with excellent strength, dyeing, softness and versatility, gives life to surprising new Textronic. The embossed designs with 3D effect create a cloud effect that, combined with Lurex, gives unexpected glows.
• GRS-certified tulles printed with GREENDROP technology, the new GOTS-certified digital pigment printing system, with lower energy consumption and low water waste, thanks to an internal closed-circuit process for water recycling.