From the Sector

Autoneum carpet systems already meet high standards of sustainable mobility due to their high content of recycled fibers. Thanks to an alternative backcoating (ABC) process, Autoneum carpets are now becoming even more environmentally friendly: By replacing the latex commonly used in standard backcoatings with thermoplastic material, the recyclability of carpets at the end of product life is further  improved. In addition, the innovative manufacturing process greatly reduces water and energy consumption and thus CO2 emissions in production.

Lightweight, textile-based carpet technologies such as Di-Light or Relive-1 significantly improve the environmental performance of carpets. For example, Di-Light-based carpets consist of up to 97% recycled PET; aside from that, they are around 20% lighter than conventional needlepunch carpets, thus contributing to lower fuel consumption and CO2 emissions from vehicles. In addition, Autoneum needlepunch carpets are now even more sustainable thanks to the innovative ABC process, which uses a thermoplastic adhesive instead of latex in the backcoating: Unlike latex, thermoplastic adhesives can be heated and melted down together with the carpet components made of pure PET at the end of the product life cycle, which facilitates recycling considerably. Furthermore, since the fibers of the thermoplastic mono-material are easier to open, carpet cut-outs can be reclaimed more easily, thereby reducing the consumption of natural resources as well as waste volumes and thus CO2 emissions. The environmental  performance of Autoneum’s needlepunch carpets, which already contain a high proportion of recycled PET, is thus further improved.

Moreover, backcoatings without latex improve the sustainability of carpets not only thanks to better recyclability at the end of the product life cycle. Since the application of the thermoplastic adhesive using the innovative ABC process consumes significantly less energy than the production of latexbased backcoatings and does not require any water at all, the environmental impact can already be minimized in the manufacturing process. Additionally, thermoplastic adhesives developed in-house by Autoneum will open up new possibilities in the future for adapting backcoatings to the individual needs of vehicle manufacturers in terms of their acoustic performance, stiffness and abrasion resistance.

Models from various customers in Europe and North America are already equipped with latex-free needlepunch carpets from Autoneum. In the near future, backcoatings with thermoplastic adhesives will also be used for Autoneum’s tufted carpets. Production of the new, even more sustainable generation of tufted carpets is scheduled to start in early 2022.

Wie war Ihr Geschäftsergebnis in 2020? Was mach(t)en Sie mit unverkaufter Winter- und Frühjahrsware? Wie ist Ihre Vororderplanung für Frühjahr/Sommer 2022? Welche digitalen Vertriebskanäle nutzen Sie? Wie reagieren Sie und Ihre Kunden auf den aktuellen Nachhaltigkeitstrend? Und wo sehen Sie aktuell die größten Problemfelder der Branche?
 
Dies sind einige Fragen aus der aktuellen gemeinsamen Unternehmerumfrage von BTE, BDSE und BLE. Jedes Unternehmen aus dem gesamten Textil-, Schuh- und Lederwarenfachhandel ist eingeladen, insgesamt 12 Fragen über das Jahr 2020, das erste Halbjahr 2021 sowie das zweite Halbjahr 2021 zu beantworten. Alle Antworten werden vertraulich behandelt.
 
Die Fragen sind in wenigen Minuten zu beantworten. BTE, BDSE und BLE bitten um eine rege Beteiligung, um ein möglichst repräsentatives Bild der drei Branchen zu erhalten und die Forderungen der Unternehmen noch besser vertreten zu können. Die Ergebnisse werden voraussichtlich im August veröffentlicht. Auf Wunsch erhalten die Teilnehmer eine separate Auswertung zugemailt, es ist aber auch eine anonyme Teilnahme möglich.
 
Die Fragen sollten idealerweise online beantwortet werden, der entsprechende Link ist auf der Startseite der drei Homepages www.bte.de, www.bdse.org und www.lederwareneinzelhandel.de zu finden. Auf Wunsch wird der Fragebogen aber auch als pdf-Datei zugeschickt. Kontakt: E-Mail: info@bte.de. BTE, BDSE und BLE bitten um eine Beantwortung bis 20. Juli 2021.

Progressive material innovations presented digitally: following the cancellation of this year’s fair due to the corona pandemic, Heimtextil is extending its range of digital services and launching a new online materials library entitled ‘Future Materials Library’. 24 future-oriented materials for interior applications can now be found at www.heimtextil.messefrankfurt.com/future.

The curators of the new materials library are London-based futures-research agency, FranklinTill. “We are transitioning to a materials revolution that will help restore the balance in our relationship to our planet. As part of the Heimtextil Trends 21/22, we present a new selection of materials for interior applications with exciting innovations from all over the world”, says Caroline Till of FranklinTill.

A mix of commercially viable products and developments in an early stage

Imaginative designers and environmentally-aware manufacturers: the Future Materials Library 2021 offers materials pioneers a platform and presents a first-class mix of economically proven and revolutionary developments. FranklinTill has organised the materials in four themes: REGENERATIVE CROPS, REMADE FIBRES, HARVESTING WASTE STREAMS and SUSTAINABLE COLOUR.

Resources are running low

Thus, the new Heimtextil materials library tackles one of the main problems of the modern age: the shortage of resources on earth. In particular, textile production creates huge and continuously growing quantities of waste. And, over past decades, the design business has developed a ‘take, make and discard’ model of consumption that is incredibly harmful for our planet. In the climate-emergency era, however, future-oriented designers are learning from nature and working together with it. They endeavour to make use of the power of highly efficient natural circular systems to create textiles and materials that are better for both humans and the planet.

Heimtextil Trends: a guide for the international sector

The ‘Future Materials Library’ is part of the Heimtextil Trends that, for almost three decades, have been offering orientation for the sector by revealing design tendencies for the coming season. Even in the crisis, the Heimtextil Trends remain a vital part of the overall concept of the fair and provide important content for all target groups involved within the worldwide sector. Accordingly, Heimtextil aims to spotlight style-defining design developments taking place within the larger context of lifestyle trends. At the same time, the Heimtextil trend experts scan the exhibitors’ product world and identify unequivocal trends in the sector. In this connection, particular attention is paid to sustainable aspects along the entire value chain – in both the new digital library and live during the fair next January. 

Archroma announces a successful first year on the U.S. home care market with its whiteness solutions for laundry and detergents.

Archroma acquired in December 2019 the BASF's stilbene-based optical brightening agents (OBA) business for liquid and powder laundry detergent applications. The acquisition included the OBA technology, portfolio and manufacturing unit at Ankleshwar, India.

Since then, Archroma has mobilized its global experts, technologies and know-how, to design a holistic solutions portfolio for household, industrial & institutional cleaning (HI&I) aimed to support detergent manufacturers.

The portfolio now includes solutions for whiteness, coloration, stain removal, fabric softening, as well as sequestering agents and surfactants, which can be used in applications such as multipurpose cleaning powders, detergent powders, dish wash tablets and liquids, laundry liquids and fabric softeners, and hard surface cleaners.

Archroma used its experience working with manufacturers and brands in the textile industry to enter the US detergent markets for the very first time, and has been able to gain a significant position with most key laundry detergent manufacturers with its solutions for whiteness.

In particular, the company reports special interest from U.S. detergent brands and manufacturers for its Leucophor® 5BMGX, as this optical brightener allows them to achieve high levels of whiteness with a blueish undertone. The product is also highly soluble in water and stable in oxidative environment.

• Create truly unique yarn designs: with up to 6 colors from a large predefined color range and infinite combinations of twisting & air entanglement
• Endlessly recyclable yarn solution - available in both standard PA6 and 75% recycled content EqoCycle PA6 yarn
• Efficient and flexible - all colors in stock to shorten lead-time; customized lot sizes

B.I.G. Yarns brings inspirational design freedom to high-end loop-pile contract and automotive carpets with the unveiling of ColorMind. The innovative yarn technology is B.I.G. Yarns’ first venture into a two steps yarn collection, offering a unique solution for creating multi-color PA6 yarns for any carpet design.

Available from mid-June 2021 in both standard and EqoCycle 75% recycled content yarn, designers are invited to work closely with B.I.G. Yarns experts to realize the designs they have always wanted. Combinations of variable levels of twisting and air entanglement, using up to 6 colors at once, elevate design possibilities beyond current limitations.

The ColorMind color bank features predefined colors, always in stock, meaning short lead times. Manufacturers can also benefit from customized lot sizes and bobbin length, creating even more flexibility and design freedom. To preview a taster of the potential directions opened up for loop-pile carpets, B.I.G. Yarns has used the technology to achieve its own “Optica” dot effect and “Illusion” wave effect as inspiration for customers’ design explorations.

“ColorMind offers never-seen yarn diversity to support a new level of design sophistication in high-end carpet segments. We’re very proud and excited to enter into two steps yarns with a solution offering something truly special, the result of intensive dedication from our design and development teams,” comments Emmanuel Colchen, General Manager, B.I.G. Yarns. “ColorMind combines our strengths in delivering high-performance, more sustainable yarns to fit the evolving demands of these segments, underpinned by our expertise in color sequencing and color mixing. We’re looking forward to exciting collaborations and innovative, eye-catching designs for future loop-pile carpets.”

ColorMind PA6 yarns are based on a unique Solution Dyed Nylon yarn and are suitable for Class 33 certification (heavy commercial use). The EqoCycle yarn version is mainly based on post-industrial waste and supports contract and automotive carpet manufacturers with a drop-in circular solution to reduce the ecological footprint of their end carpets.

Das beschlossene neue Infektionsschutzgesetz mit der bundesweiten „Corona-Notbremse“ beschert dem stationären Textil-, Schuh- und Lederwarenhandel endgültig die dritte Katastrophen-Saison in Folge. Denn das in den allermeisten Städten und Landkreisen noch zugelassene Click & Collect ist für die überwiegende Mehrzahl der Modehäuser, Schuh- und Lederwarengeschäfte keine wirkliche Hilfe, da die damit erzielten Umsätze in der Regel nicht einmal die Kosten der Ladenöffnung decken, so die Handelsverbände. „Der stationäre Fashionhandel braucht jetzt vielmehr zeitnah Schritte in Richtung einer weitgehenden Öffnung, damit die Unternehmen überleben können. Andernfalls werden auch viele Cities endgültig zu Geisterstädten“, prognostiziert BTE-Hauptgeschäftsführer Rolf Pangels.
 
Vollkommen unverständlich ist der Shutdown für BTE, BDSE und BLE angesichts der Erkenntnis, dass das Einkaufen im Einzelhandel weitgehend risikolos ist.  Mehrere wissenschaftliche Untersuchungen vom Robert-Koch-Institut (RKI) und der Technischen Universität (TU) Berlin belegen, dass das Shopping mit Maske und einer Begrenzung auf eine Person pro 10 qm Verkaufsfläche kaum Ansteckungsgefahren birgt. Pangels: „Die Schließung des betroffenen Non-Food-Fachhandels leistet also keinen sinnvollen Beitrag zur Bekämpfung der Pandemie!“
 
Überdies seien die realen Ansteckungsrisiken speziell im Mode-, Schuh- und Lederwarenhandel noch geringer als in den Studien errechnet. So gingen nach Recherchen von BTE, BDSE und BLE die Forscher von RKI und TU bei ihren Modellen zum situationsbedingten R-Wert im Nonfood-Fachhandel von einer Einkaufdauer von zwei Stunden aus. Gemäß einer aktuellen Umfrage der drei Fachverbände lag die Besuchsdauer der Kunden zuletzt aber in der Regel nur zwischen 30 und 60 Minuten, und zwar sowohl in kleinen Fachgeschäften als auch in großen Modehäusern. Außerdem werde nur extrem selten die bei der Studie angesetzte Grenze von einem Kunden pro 10 qm erreicht. „Nach unseren Schätzungen dürfte der R-Wert in der Realität beim Modeshopping derzeit also bei maximal 0,5 liegen“, rechnet Pangels.
 
BTE, BDSE und BLE fordern daher die Politik auf, nunmehr sinnvolle Maßnahmen zur Bekämpfung der Pandemie zu ergreifen. Pangels: „Der stationäre Fachhandel darf nicht weiterhin als Bauernopfer dienen, weil die Politik die wahren Treiber der Pandemie nicht fassen kann oder will!“

• PrimaLoft and Origin Materials have launched a program to develop high-performance, carbon-negative insulating fibers for diverse apparel applications, including for leading outdoor, fashion, and lifestyle brands, as well as home goods applications such as hypoallergenic insulated bedding.
• PrimaLoft, an advanced material technology company and a world leader in the development of high-performance insulations and fabrics, will develop the fibers with Origin Materials to address demand for sustainable, high-performance materials from its over 900 global brand partners. PrimaLoft iconic brand partners include Patagonia, Stone Island, L.L. Bean, Lululemon, adidas and Nike.
• The program will focus on carbon-negative PET and next-generation polymers produced by the Origin Materials patented technology platform, which turns sustainable wood residue into cost-advantaged, carbon-negative materials that reduce the need for fossil resources.

Origin Materials, Inc. (“Origin Materials”), a leading carbon negative materials company, and PrimaLoft, an advanced material technology company and a leader in the development of high-performance insulations and fabrics, announced a new program to develop carbon-negative, insulating, high-performance fibers. The fibers will be used across a diverse array of end products, including insulating fiber for leading outdoor, fashion, and lifestyle brands, as well as home goods applications such as hypoallergenic insulated bedding.

The companies will work to rapidly develop and commercialize new products derived from Origin Materials’ platform. The collaboration will leverage the leadership position of PrimaLoft as a specialty producer of insulating fibers and filaments with over 900 global brand partners, as well as a large global network of manufacturers that employ a wide array of textile processes to make its products, including extrusion, carding, spinning, finishing, weaving, knitting, dyeing, airlaid, meltblown, and other technologies.

The collaboration builds on PrimaLoft’s “Relentlessly Responsible™” mission to elevate both performance and sustainability, through innovation. The platform includes PrimaLoft® Bio™, which was developed and launched into the market in late 2018 as an effort to battle microplastics in the ocean; PrimaLoft® P.U.R.E.™, which provides materials manufactured with greater than 50% CO2 savings; and PrimaLoft’s post-consumer recycling initiative. The next frontier for the company is non-petroleum based raw materials, including products that biodegrade and other circular economy solutions.

• Swiss weaving machinery manufacturers are in the forefront of novel application development

Shoes and electronic calculators are probably not the first products people would associate with the textile weaving process. But they certainly signpost the future for woven fabrics, as two examples of the ever-wider possibilities of latest technology in the field. Fashion and function already combine in the increasing popularity of woven fabrics for shoes, and this is a present and future trend. Calculators in fabrics? That’s another story of ingenious development, using so-called ‘meander fields’ on the back and keys printed on the front of the material.

These glimpses of the outlook for modern weavers are among the highlights of developments now being pioneered by Swiss textile machinery companies. All weaving markets require innovation, as well as speed, efficiency, quality and sustainability. Member firms of the Swiss Textile Machinery Association respond to these needs at every point in the process – from tightening the first thread in the warp to winding the last inch for fabric delivery. They also share a common advantage, with a leading position in the traditional weaving industry as well as the expertise to foster new and exciting applications.

Technology and research cooperation
The concept of a ‘textile calculator’ was developed by Jakob Müller Group, in cooperation with the textile research institute Thuringen-Vogtland. Müller’s patented MDW® multi-directional weaving technology is able to create the meander fields which allow calculator functions to be accessed at a touch. A novel and useful facility, which suggests limitless expansion.

Today, the latest woven shoes are appreciated for their precise and comfortable fit. They score through their durability, strength and stability, meeting the requirements of individual athletes across many sports, as well as leisurewear. Stäubli is well known as a leading global specialist in weaving preparation, shedding systems and high-speed textile machinery. Its jacquard machines offer great flexibility across a wide range of formats, weaving all types of technical textiles, lightweight reinforcement fabrics – and shoes.

It’s possible to weave new materials such as ceramics, mix fibers such as aramid, carbon and other, and produce innovative multi-layers with variable thicknesses. Such applications put special demands on weaving machines which are fulfilled by Stäubli high-performance TF weaving systems.

Great weaving results are impossible without perfect warp tension, now available thanks to the world-leading electronic warp feeding systems of Crealet. Some market segments in weaving industry today demand warp let-off systems which meet individual customer requirements. For example, the company has recognized expertise to understand that geotextile products often need special treatment, as provided by its intelligent warp tension control system. Individual and connective solutions are designed to allow external support via remote link. Crealet’s warp let-off systems are widely used in both ribbon and broadloom weaving, for technical textiles applied on single or multiple warp beams and creels.

Functional, sustainable, automated
Trends in the field of woven narrow fabrics are clearly focused on functionality and sustainability. The Jakob Müller Group has already embraced these principles – for example using natural fibers for 100% recyclable labels with a soft-feel selvedge. It also focuses as much as possible on the processing of recycled, synthetic materials. Both PET bottles and polyester waste from production are recycled and processed into elastic and rigid tapes for the apparel industry.

For efficient fabric production environments, it is now recognized that automated quality solutions are essential. Quality standards are increasing everywhere and zero-defect levels are mandatory for sensitive applications such as airbags and protective apparel.

Uster’s latest generation of on-loom monitoring and inspection systems offers real operational improvements for weavers. The fabric quality monitoring prevents waste, while the quality assurance system significantly improves first-quality yield for all applications. Protecting fabric makers from costly claims and damaged reputations, automated fabric inspection also removes the need for slow, costly and unreliable manual inspection, freeing operators to focus on higher-skilled jobs.

Smart and collaborative robotics (cobots) offer many automation possibilities in weaving rooms. Stäubli’s future oriented robotics division is a driver in this segment with first effective installations in warp and creel preparation.

Control and productivity
Willy Grob’s specialized solutions for woven fabric winding focus on reliable control of tension, keeping it constant from the start of the process right through to the full cloth roll. Continuous digital control is especially important for sensitive fabrics, while performance and productivity are also critical advantages. In this regard, the company’s large-scale batching units can provide ten times the winding capacity of a regular winder integrated in the weaving machine.

The customized concept by Grob as well as design and implementation result in great flexibility and functionality of the fabric winding equipment – yet another example of Swiss ingenuity in textile machinery.  
There is even more innovation to come in weaving – and in other segments – from members of the Swiss Textile Machinery Association in future! This confident assertion is founded on an impressive statistic: the 4077 years of experience behind the creative power of the association’s member firms. It’s proof positive that their developments grow out of profound knowledge and continuous research.

Devan is launching a new range of bio-based fragrances, named SceNTL®. The range uses traceable raw materials and an external lab has confirmed that the bio-content of the fragrances is above 85%.

SceNTL® is a unique and wide range of encapsulated fragrances that can be integrated onto the fabric and are gradually released over time. Upon release, the fragrances appeal to the senses, promoting relaxation, wellbeing and feel-good sensations.

While synthetic fragrances are composed of synthetic, man-made ingredients, natural scents and oils are created by isolating natural aroma components from raw plant materials. This also explains why every SceNTL® batch can have a slight variation in smell. As natural conditions differ from time to time, every harvest is a little different from the previous one.

Although aromatherapy is still a young and understudied domain, recent studies have shown that essential oils can indeed have neurological effects. Linalool for example, a component found in Lavender and rosewood, is found to enhance sleep, while Limonene, a component found in the peel of citrus fruits, is clinically proven to have an uplifting effect.

At this moment, the SceNTL® range is intended for low-wash items such as mattress ticking, decorative pillows, upholstery, curtains, carpets, etc. It can also be used as a natural ‘masking scent’ for products that have a strong artificial smell caused by the production process. The company is already looking into further development of other scents and broader application use.

With the spring textile trade fair season in China just around the corner, a number of leading domestic and international suppliers are confirmed to take part in Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles – Spring Edition. The fair will now take place at a slightly later date of 17 – 19 March. Together with the concurrent fairs Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics, Yarn Expo, CHIC and PH Value, these five events will form the first major in-person gathering for the textile industry this year.

From bedding and towelling, rugs and table & kitchen linen to home textile technologies and textile designs, buyers will have a wide range of the latest collections to source from this month at Shanghai’s National Exhibition and Convention Center. International exhibitors such as Lenzing and Cotton Council International as well as leading domestic brands including Coolist, Luolai, Soluffy and Yunjie Textile are amongst those signed up to take part this year.

Exhibitor highlights

• Lenzing Fibers: will showcase their flagship brand for textiles, TENCEL™. Used for a variety of highly specialised applications, TENCEL™ fibres are soft to the skin and excellent in thermal regulation and moisture absorption.
• Cotton Council International (CCI) is a non-profit association that promotes US cotton fibre and cotton products throughout the world.
• Zhangjiagang Coolist Life Technology: this Chinese company designs and produces a range of functional pillow collections including their Filmless Gel, Hydrophilic, Air, Flexible and Organic pillow series. Their unique Coolist design features patented technology, and is made from organic and environmental-friendly materials.
• Anhui Million Feather: located in Anhui province’s Lu’an city, known in China as the ‘Kingdom of Geese’, the company produces a range of down and feather products and various bedding items.
• Wujiang City Yunjie Textiles: specialising in wide-width fabrics including microfibre, satin and suede.
• Yantai Zhonglian Industry: their main products include sheets, pillowcases, quilt covers, bed skirts, comforters, coverlets, pillows and more.