From the Sector

Global fashion brand Weekday decided to show initiative in circular fashion on White Monday and is now the world’s first global fashion brand who has published a garment from IFC fabric.

Weekday wanted to raise awareness of IFC by contacting Maisie Williams who’s known to speak about causes she cares about. Maisie co-designed a two-piece outfit which is made entirely from IFC fabric.

IFC’s technology enables the millions of kilos of textile waste that is currently burned or landfilled, to be turned into a cost efficient, high quality cotton-like fiber.

”Infinited Fiber Company has a really interesting new recycling technique that has potential to help Weekday in our goal towards 100% recycled or sustainably sourced materials. For us, this material is extra interesting because of its cotton-like appearance and durability,” says Ulrika Jakobsson, Sustainability and Material Responsible at Weekday.

IFC provided Weekday with a few meters of newly processed denim fiber to test and they are now the first in the world to use this fabric.

At the moment this garment is not a collection that can be purchased. Weekday is testing the material and they are hoping to create a full collection soon.
IFC‘s technology is operating in Finland and is patented, proven and ready for global up-scaling and licensing. Its investors include global fashion corporation H&M Group and Singapore based global biomaterials company RGE Pte Ltd.

STAMFORD, Conn. – At this year’s CAMX conference, taking place on September 24-26 in Anaheim, CA (Booth L42), Hexcel will promote its broad portfolio of composite innovations for aerospace and industrial applications.

On display at the Hexcel booth, visitors will see an integrated wing panel demonstrator made with HiMax™ non-crimp reinforcements that were specially developed to complement a new generation of infusion resin systems. Visitors will also see a wing box demonstrator made from HiTape® dry carbon reinforcements. Both parts were injected with Hexcel’s RTM6 infusion resin and incorporate a toughening veil to enhance mechanical properties to meet the structural requirements for aerospace parts.

With 50 years of experience and the most qualified carbon fiber positions on aerospace programs in the industry with its comprehensive range of high-strength, high-strain PAN-based carbon fibers, Hexcel continues to innovate and is introducing a new fiber to its portfolio. HexTow® HM54 combines high modulus and high tensile strength, which allows structural designers to achieve higher safety margins for both stiffness and strength-critical applications. HexTow® carbon fibers are excellent not only for aerospace applications but also industrial and recreational applications. HexTow® carbon fibers are excellent not only for aerospace applications but also industrial and recreational applications, examples of golfing applications will be on display.

Additive manufacturing is on the forefront of innovation for composite technologies, and Hexcel is leading the way with its HexAM® additive manufacturing process. HexAM® additive manufacturing combines high performance PEKK thermoplastics with carbon fiber to produce flight-ready 3D printed HexPEKK® parts. HexPEKK® structures offer significant weight, cost and time-to-market reductions, replacing traditional cast or machined metallic parts in highly demanding aerospace, satellite and defense applications.

HexPly® M77 snap-cure prepregs are yet another example of Hexcel technology leading the way. HexPly® M77HF, the latest member of this quick-curing prepreg family, is revolutionizing the world of composites for high-performance sporting goods with its faster production times and excellent surface quality. It will be featured in the Hexcel booth in two products – a carbon fiber Goode water ski which is setting records in the competitive world with its precision and durability, and in a HED cycling wheel noted for its aerodynamics and light weight.

Among Hexcel’s latest technologies are the RF Interference Control materials made by ARC Technologies, a Hexcel company. A selection of these industry-leading custom RF / EMI and microwave absorbing composite materials for military, aerospace and industrial applications will be on display at the Hexcel booth.

HexForce® bias weave woven reinforcements are a patented solution to optimize material usage. These bias weave reinforcements are continuous rolls of carbon fiber fabric in which the warp and weft yarns are oriented on the bias at +/- 45° which can reduce prepreg waste up to 60%. Visitors at CAMX will be able to see this new woven reinforcement and learn more.

imogo is a new Swedish company formed by a team with long experience in textile processing technology. It is now boldly aiming to change the face of the textile manufacturing industry with its new Dye-Max spray dyeing technology, to be introduced to the market at ITMA 2019 in Barcelona.

While still at the prototype stage, and with a first full-scale line currently under construction and due to be demonstrated this Autumn before delivery, the DyeMax nevertheless promises to slash the use of fresh water, waste water, energy and chemicals by as much as 90% compared to conventional jet dyeing systems.

Spray cassettes
Its application unit consists of a closed chamber containing a series of spray cassettes with precision nozzles for accurate and consistent coverage, in combination with the patented imogo pro speed valve that controls the volume to be applied. The chamber is equipped with an exhaust system and droplet separator to ensure that the environment around the unit is free from particles.

“The spray cassettes are a key part in the Dye-Max line,” explains Imogo’s founding partner Per Stenflo. “There is one set of spray cassettes for each of the three separate dye dispersion feed lines and they can be easily exchanged without the need for tools in less than a minute. This allows for extremely fast changeovers between different colours without the need for cleaning. And because the spray cassettes are removable, all maintenance can be performed off line. 
After applying the dye dispersion the fabric is rolled onto a shaft and moved to the autoclave for deep dye fixation via heat and pressure.”

The savings in treatment water the Dye-Max achieves are due to the extremely low liquor ratio of 0.5 litres per kilo of fabric Stenflo adds. 

“At the same time, the low liquor ratio and the spray process require considerably less auxiliary chemistry to start with, and all of it is used in the process, which also greatly reduces the production of waste water, with only 20 litres being required for wash at changeovers. The low liquid content in the fabric meanwhile minimises the energy needed for fixation.”

The Dye-Max has a working speed of up to 50m/min with the practical speed determined by the fabric weight and application volume. 
 

FONG’S EUROPE, based in Schwäbisch Hall, Germany, will celebrate the 100th anniversary of its flagship THEN brand for advanced dyeing technology with a special reception for customers and agents at ITMA 2019 in Barcelona.

The company, which has been a member of the CHTC FONG’S group since 2004, has its origins in the German city of Chemnitz, where back in 1919 Rudolf Then founded a barrel-making business which soon branched out into piece dyeing machines.

The company’s reputation for innovation began early, with the introduction of ceramic linings for dye baths, which were then made of wood, in order to avoid staining and allow easy cleaning. At the end of the 1920s, Rudolf Then was also quick to recognise the acid-resistant advantages of stainless steel for dyeing vessels.

Relocating to West Germany after World War 2, Rudolf Then ran a number of businesses in Schwäbisch Hall, eventually founding THEN in 1955 with partner Karl Kurz, who later took over the business specialising in dye vats and other textile equipment.

Throughout the 1960s and 70s, the company continued to further improve its technologies, but it was the introduction of the first THEN AIRFLOW system at ITMA 1983 in Milan which significantly boosted the company’s fortunes, representing a milestone in the development of dyeing machines.

Prior to this, the dyeing of just one kilo of fabric required around 150 litres of water and THEN’s AIRFLOW system, invented by engineer Wilhelm Christ and colleagues, drastically reduced the requirement to between just 35-40 litres. Instead of the traditional dye liquor used for hydraulic fabric transport it efficiently distributed much smaller amounts of dye liquor via aerosol. This technology has subsequently been further developed in successive machine models and has made an enormous impact on sustainable dyeing operations.

Now, as FONG’S EUROPE, the company continues to innovate, and at ITMA 2019 is showcasing the THEN SMARTFLOW TSF hydraulic high temperature dyeing machine, designed to achieve the lowest possible energy and water consumption rates available on the market for jet dyeing.

The company has a number of patents pending on the innovative new features of this machine, including the SMARTFLOW’s fabric transport design. This is based on a smart, winchless fabric transport system which eliminates the need for a loading rope, and a circular plaiter with programmable rotation speeds which provides full filling of the drop zone.

Its newly-developed nozzles and reel-less transport, in combination with smart controlled circular plaiting and variable chamber adjustment, provide even fabric treatment without entanglements and the highest loading capacity with the lowest kier volume

“Further developments, including the new THEN AIRFLOW PLUS system with a round design are in the development pipeline and will once again result in further reductions in power consumption without sacrificing performance,” says FONG’s Europe Sales Director Richard Fander. “Similar innovations are being made to our hydraulic long shape machine, the THEN SUPRATEC LTM. The ability to transport fabrics with reduced tension and without the need for a transport winch which is being introduced on all of our recent machines will allow new fabrics to be created and further increase the efficiency of textile finishing.

Fong’s Europe will be at stand D101 in Hall 2 at ITMA 2019.

• Oerlikon presents its expanded nonwovens product portfolio at the IDEA 2019 in Miami

Neumünster – Oerlikon presents its complete nonwoven plant portfolio for the production of airlaid, meltblown, spunbonded and hybrid materials at this year’s IDEA in Miami from 25–28 March. The focus of its presentation will be on solutions for hygiene, medical and other disposable nonwovens. Visitors to this year’s IDEA can inform themselves on the wide range of products at Oerlikon’s exhibition stand (no. 1724).

Two strong partnerships for disposable nonwovens

While two years ago the Nonwoven business unit of the Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment focused almost exclusively on solutions for technical applications, the company has now expanded its product portfolio to include solutions for disposable nonwovens by establishing strong partnerships.

Oerlikon & Teknoweb Materials – two strong partners for the nonwoven industry

As early as spring 2017, Oerlikon Manmade Fibers' Nonwoven business unit had entered into a strategic partnership with the Italian company Teknoweb Materials. Teknoweb Materials is an established technology supplier in the field of wipes and other disposable nonwovens. With its LEVRA technology, the company has its own patented, particularly efficient manufacturing process for wipes. It also has extensive process know-how on the making and further processing of these nonwoven materials. The Nonwoven business unit of Oerlikon’s Manmade Fibers segment completes this partnership with its well-established machine and plant solutions. Teknoweb Materials will also be represented at IDEA at the Oerlikon exhibition stand (no. 1724).

Cooperation with Shaoyang Textile Machinery

For spunmelt systems solutions for hygiene and medical applications, Oerlikon has been in cooperation with the Chinese machine and plant manufacturer Shaoyang Textile Machinery since Autumn of last year. The goal of these cooperation partners is to advance the international marketing of spunmelt plants outside of China. Oerlikon Manmade Fibers’ Nonwoven business unit contributes its plant engineering know-how and is responsible for product and process guarantees. Oerlikon also assumes the overall project responsibility as well as world-wide customer service outside of China. In return, Shaoyang, with its headquarters in the city of the same name in the Hunan province, supplies the plant technologies.The advantage for the customer: competitive solutions at an attractive price level with comparatively low investments.

• Latex-free: UltraBond allows 100% recyclable thermal bonded nonwovens
• Sustainability & cost-efficiency: significant reductions in CO2 emissions and energy and water consumption for manufacturers of needlepunched exhibition & contract flooring
• UltraBond debuts at Domotex 2019 Stand B56 Hall 11

Beaulieu Fibres International (BFI) unveils a unique opportunity for carpet manufacturers to create fully recyclable needlepunch carpets, and benefit from production and resource savings, without influencing performance.

Launched at Domotex 2019, new UltraBond is a patented polyolefin bonding staple fibre that eliminates the need for latex or other chemical binders to bind nonwovens. It opens up a new path for creating 100% polypropylene (PP) needlepunch carpets which meet the same performance requirements as traditional latex-bonded carpets while reducing the end-of-life environmental impact. Functional properties such as pilling resistance, resistance to wear and abrasion, and also UV resistance are guaranteed.

Using UltraBond manufacturers finally gain the potential to cost-efficiently produce 100% recyclable carpets. In addition to the general benefits of making recycled PP available for the plastics production chain and reduced waste generation, environmental advantages and financial savings arise from a total lack of water and less energy use. As a 100% dry process, thermal bonding uses no water and results in a total absence of waste water. There is also a reduction in the VOC level of the carpet. This all leads to a significant reduction in a needlepunch carpet’s ecological footprint.

The sustainability benefits are quantified through lifecycle analysis (LCA) of an exhibition carpet application – among the primary applications for needlepunch carpets. Evaluations show that the absence of water consumption directly translates into a large energy saving of 93% when using UltraBond compared to a latex bonding solution, and also a potential annual water saving of over 20 million litres for 100 million m2 of exhibition applications in the EU. Without the addition of any other bonding agent, CO2 emissions are reduced by 35% over the full production process.

Karena Cancilleri, Vice President Beaulieu Engineered Products, Beaulieu International Group, commented, “Recyclability and achieving a greener, more cost-effective production process without compromising on current performance levels are significant unsolved topics within today’s carpet industry. By eliminating the need for latex and chemical binders through UltraBond, we offer needlepunch manufacturers a breakthrough they have been looking for that boosts environmental and economic sustainability. We see textile flooring as just the beginning. Together with our customers, we look forward to exploring the potential of this unique thermal bonding fibre in other applications such as laminated nonwovens or as an alternative to dry powders.”

Discover more about UltraBond from the Beaulieu Fibres International team at Stand B56 Hall 11, Domotex 2019 in Hannover, Germany from January 11-14, 2019.

As the tradition goes, twice a year the functional fabric fair Performance Days selects the most innovative fabrics, accessories and finishes for their Performance Forum. This year, two functional finishes from textile innovator Devan Chemicals (Moov&Cool® & R-Vital™) were chosen. R-Vital™ was awarded with the ‘100% Jury Like’ stamp, meaning all the members of the Jury selected the sample, a recognition only granted to a handful of the 1400 applications.

R-Vital™ – ‘100% Jury Like’
R-Vital™ is a range of microencapsulated active ingredients that boost textiles with anti-oxidative effects. The microcapsules, attached to the fibre, deliver antioxidants to the body upon friction. The ‘100% Jury Like’ sample is treated with a well-chosen blend of Ubiquinol (Q10), Sea kelp and Thyme oil, which enhances recovery after sports performances. As R-Vital™ is also suitable for other market segments, such as bedding textiles, Devan enables its customers to compose their own blend, allowing them to create truly unique products and hence properties.
Marleen Van der Auwera, BU Manager Health & Wellness is happy to see that R-Vital™ is getting some more attention. “When the technology was first launched about a year ago, we noticed people had some difficulties understanding the concept because it was so revolutionary to them”, she says. “But this recognition really indicates more and more people are seeing its potential.”

Moov&Cool®
Moov&Cool® is a patented polymer technology, providing a cool comfort feel through a combination of durable heat absorption capacity and a unique, balanced moisture transfer system. By lowering the body core temperature, the finishing treatment helps professional athletes to take their performance to the next level. Furthermore, the technology is also designed to enhance comfort during physical activities of recreational athletes.
Moov&Cool® was first launched at Performance Days in April and will be presented in full detail at the upcoming edition, which will take place on November 28^th & 29^th in Munich, Germany.

• Unique, patented 3D printing process enables production of large-scale components
• First direct investment by BASF Venture Capital in a company in China

BASF Venture Capital GmbH is investing in Prismlab, a leading provider of 3D printing processes and 3D printers, headquartered in Shanghai, China. Prismlab has developed a patented printing process that is characterized by a very high printing speed, high level of precision and lower printing costs. BASF’s venture investment will enable Prismlab to further accelerate its product development and innovation while strengthening its market reach to the global market.

“This is our first direct investment in a Chinese company,” said Markus Solibieda, Managing Director of BASF Venture Capital GmbH. “The trailblazing technology from Prismlab allows large and stable components, such as medical braces and anatomical models, to be 3D printed for the first time. This investment supports BASF’s strategy of actively advancing our technologies and expanding our product offering in the 3D printing sector.”

“China is transforming from a manufacturing-driven to an innovation-driven economy. This investment in Prismlab reflects our commitment to further expanding our innovation capabilities in China, and BASF Venture Capital plays an important role in helping us identifying potential partners that lead us to success,” said Dr. Zheng Daqing, BASF’s Senior Vice President, Business and Market Development Greater China.

“The 3D printing technology must continue to evolve before it is set to change the world. At Prismlab, we aim to spearhead and accelerate that change by providing solutions through specialized customization. The investment allows us to stay laser-focused on our R&D capability, a key factor to achieve that goal,” said Mr. Hou Feng, Founder and Chairman of Prismlab.

Prismlab has developed a patented 3D printing process, “Pixel Resolution Enhanced Technology”, based on stereolithography (SLA). SLA allows comparatively large components to be produced using light-curing resins. Prismlab’s technology increases the printing resolution without compromising printing speed. In order to increase the amount of energy brought into a pixel, Prismlab’s technology divides each pixel in the resin into several small sections, which can be cured individually by exposure to LCD light. This makes the energy input into each pixel significantly higher than similar processes that expose each pixel to light once. This allows comparatively large and stable components or numerous parts to be printed in the same production step. With the use of LCD light, it also reduces process costs. This advantage opens opportunities in the footwear and furniture industry.

Along with this patented process, Prismlab also markets 3D printers and other related services. The Prismlab technology can be used in various key customer applications, including invisible braces, and anatomical models for medical, and education and training purposes.

SLA uses a laser for layer-by-layer curing of a photopolymer solution to shape the required workpiece. SLA and LCD based printing processes determinate the size, stability, and usability of the components to be produced as they are limited by the size of the light spot and the intensity of the light.

Suzhou, China, October 18, 2018 – The years of intensive research and development in the field of texturing, which Oerlikon Barmag is doing at the site in China, bears further fruits. On October 12, 2018, the new R&D-Center was officially inaugurated at the Suzhou site. Around 80 invited guests took part in the inauguration ceremony. The ceremonial opening was done by the government representatives of the city of Suzhou and the top management level of Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Segment.

The award is a tribute to the research and development work done so far in the field of texturing machines. For example, Oerlikon holds 34 patents granted, several more are currently in the grant stage. The award also reflects the reorientation in the area of texturing. Meanwhile, the international technology team has grown to a size of over 60 highly qualified employees. This supports the strong focus on innovation and research. In addition to continuous improvement measures on existing machines, various new components and machine concepts are planned which will soon be opened to the market.

Innovation is indispensable especially in the field of texturing machines, since the technology has hardly changed in the last few decades. “Only with new approaches we can offer our customers the technological advantage with which they can be successful. The focus of the innovations is on the topics of automation, digitalization, energy saving and the improvement of process quality”, said Georg Stausberg, CEO Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Segment.

In addition to the official recognition of the achievements, Oerlikon China Technology Ltd. is also provided with state funding. “This financial support is partly invested in the most modern equipment, but also in a highly qualified training of our employees. This ensures that we can continue to offer high quality and customer benefits”, said Joachim Diezl, General Manager of the site in Suzhou.

Archroma, a global leader in color and specialty chemicals, will be presenting its innovative and sustainable denim solutions for manufacturers and brands at DenimsandJeans Vietnam 2018, on June 27 and 28.
From fiber to finish, Archroma offers a scope of possibilities for effects and colors, from the authentic roots of indigo to the most innovative and eco-advanced solutions. Archroma is a recognized leader in integrated solutions, offering best-in-class auxiliaries for bespoke process packages.
Visitors will be able to discover solutions designed to make denim in a more sustainable and responsible way, in particular:
DENISOL®, BRINGING INDIGO BACK TO ITS ROOTS - NOW ANILINE-FREE*
Archroma’s Denisol® range is a newly developed pre-reduced liquid indigo solution that is manufactured in Archroma’s award winning ‘zero liquid discharge’ manufacturing plant in Pakistan.

• Denisol® Indigo 30 liq is compliant with major official eco-standards and requirements from retailers, brands and fashion leading companies and helps to produce fabrics suitable for current eco-labeling such as bluesign® and GOTS.
• Responding to demands for a non-toxic alternative to the dyes that are used for the iconic and traditional indigo blue that consumers associate with denim and jeans, Archroma just announced the upcoming new Denisol® Pure Indigo 30.

ADVANCED DENIM, TOWARDS WATERLESS DENIM DYEING
Consider this: The water needed to produce one pair of jeans is said to be ~ 11'000 liters(1). With approximately 167 million pairs of jeans produced monthly(2), that is 1,837,000,000,000 liters of water consumed every month in the process! Based on the Denim-Ox and Pad/Sizing-Ox dyeing processes, Archroma’s multi-awarded ADVANCED DENIM, dyeing technology allows savings of up to 92% in water, 87% in cotton waste and 30% in energy, compared to a conventional denim dyeing process.
The technology has been adopted by brands like Patagonia and received the prestigious 2012 ICIS Innovation Award and Innovation with Best Environmental Benefit Award.

• Optisul® C, “soft colors” made easy
  Colors other than blue have been tricky to achieve in the past. With Optisul® C dyes, denim manufacturers can expand their color horizons with this range of six dyes especially designed to produce soft denim colors in continuous dyeing processes, as well as on coating and printing. Optisul® C affinity-free, sulfide-free dyes can easily be combined with each other to create garments suitable for wash-down treatments in a wide array of easily achievable and reproducible soft colors. They are suitable for GOTS and bluesign® approval.
• Diresul® RDT Ocean Blues, ocean-themed bright sulfur blue dyes
  Archroma’s Diresul® RDT Ocean Blues are a collection of vibrant, ocean-themed bright sulfur blue dyes. These best-in-class dyes and their auxiliaries bring out the best of indigo, improve workability, dyeing consistency and process safety.
  They can be combined with Denisol® Indigo 30 liq in bottoming/topping manufacturing routes for avant-garde blue styles. At the booth, Archroma will display an “illustration collection” of exciting indigo casts.
• Diresul® blacks & greys, a universe of greys and deep black and navies.
  Archroma’s dye portfolio of conventional and black Diresul® specialties allow to create a universe of greys and deep black and navies. From superficial to solid blacks for both extreme wash-down and stay black effects.

EARTHCOLORS, TRACEABLE FROM NATURE TO FASHION
As consumers increasingly aspire to functional, beautiful and meaningful clothing, brands and manufacturers are increasingly interested in the environmental impact of the denim industry. Archroma has placed sustainability at the heart of its innovation process to create products and processes that improve the industry’s sustainability.
The EarthColors patented range of “biosynthetic” dyes for cotton and cellulose-based fabrics, which are made from waste left over by the agricultural and herbal industry after extraction, such as almond shells, saw palmetto, or rosemary leaves. The latest NFC technology used on the end-product hangtags enables transparency and traceability through the supply chain to consumers.
The EarthColors allow to produce the earth tones that are coming strong: red, brown and green colors. They have been adopted by brands such as Patagonia, Kathmandu and G-Star, and won an OutDoor Industry Award 2017.

SOLUTION PACKAGES FOR SUSTAINABILITY
Brand owners and retailers around the world are taking action to evaluate the environmental impact of textile treatment, dyeing and finishing processes in response to consumer concerns.

Archroma recently introduced the ONE WAY Process Simulator, the last update of a calculation tool that supports its ONE WAY Sustainability Service introduced back in 2012. The new, online software can be used to mimic and compare products and processes, and thus calculate the ecological and economical profile of the final end-product.
Archroma’s portfolio of ZDHC MRSL-compliant chemicals and dyes is integrated into the ONE WAY calculation tool since 2013.
“Innovation and sustainability go hand in hand,” says Paul O’Prey, Head of Sales, Brand & Performance Textile Specialties, Archroma, Vietnam. “While developing new products and services, we always consider the environmental impact so they are as sustainable as possible. This can be seen in our innovative and eco-advance products, such as the water-saving ADVANCED DENIM and the aniline-free* Denisol® Pure Indigo.”