From the Sector

• Riri’s SS 2022 collection explores the mind of the future.
• Bright colors, vintage themes as well as timeless designs and attention to detail, combined with concepts that highlight history and processes.

Riri Group’s gaze looks to the future once more, offering a line of accessories where creativity meets cutting-edge technology. This is the scenario spawning the new SS 2022 collection; a range of innovative proposals each representing a different emotional response to the pandemic, an attempt to interpret the emotions, needs and desires of consumers in the coming years.

The Italian-Swiss group, that for almost a century has committed to creating zips and buttons for the world’s most important fashion brands, doubles down on its forward-looking vision. The result is SS 2022 collection, featuring three different aspirational paths to read into the emerging feelings of the “new normal” that is our time and that may characterize the near future.

REJOICE
Inspired by sensations of euphoria and breaking free from melancholy through evasion and exuberance, Rejoice is the line that sees in positivity and joy of re-living the answer to the months of pandemic and negativity. The optimism that is to come takes the form of a creative and extrovert style, even when it comes to accessories. The inspiration, a triumph of bright colors and timeless styles, comes straight from the streets of Boca, one of Buenos Aires’ most popular neighborhoods thanks to its combination of colors and creative scene. Thus, the Eloxal rio zip is presented once again: with its aluminum chain and colored teeth, matched with a multi-color effect puller. In the range, we can also find the Nylon zip, featuring changing colors matched with buttons that echo their color variations, or the Filmetal 14 zip, big and with eye-catching writings, embossed on the tape.

REBIRTH
Going back to the future, in a more respectful and responsible way, through a rebirth that comes to be thanks to a closer relationship with nature. In this line history and processes through which the product is made are pivotal to tell a new way to approach the world. The range comprises zips and buttons developed with natural material and processed manually. A return to the basics as well as the constant research to reduce resources use respecting the planet are foundation of this line. Part of the Rebirth line are the copper jeans buttons, with a special water-based paint finishing, transparent and protective, or the hemp-derived bio-plastic eyelets, as well as the galalite buttons, a particular bio-degradable plastic, derived from processed milk proteins. A major innovation are our tapes entirely made of recycled polyester, evidence of the commitment by Riri Group to reuse resources.

TIMELESS
Timeless elegance, essential luxury mixed with the highest quality standards for top-of-therange products. Design, materials and colors featuring in this line break away from seasonal trends to become timeless must-haves, essential yet elegant. Every piece is cared for in every detail, created specifically to leave a lasting mark. Buttons, chains and pullers are either made of gold and silver, or they feature the clean and elegant tone of stainless steel. Among the zips, stand out Metal and Simmetrical with luxury finishings, whilst tapes are made with refined materials, such as leather and satin. Essential yet researched, this range comes with square and oval cuts, with geometry being functional and complementary to a timeless elegance.

Ensuring Competitiveness Through Technology

Rieter has doubled down on its R&D efforts since the onset of the pandemic to accelerate the development of its suite of intelligent and automated machines and systems so customers can manufacture yarns more profitably, efficiently and sustainably. This also empowers mill owners to respond flexibly to fast-changing markets.

• Ring spinning with G 38 and ROBOspin sets new standards in automation
• COMPACTapron takes yarn strength to new heights
• ESSENTIAL offers new features with smarter insights for better decisions
• ROBOdoff automates doffing to save time and money
• SSM’s new winder NEO-YW delivers more efficiency and sustainability
• Graf’s new cylinder wire and flats enhance lifetime and quality

After a turbulent year, it seems strange to be thinking about ‘after the pandemic’, but with millions of vaccinations underway, the light at the end of the tunnel is visible. As we turn the corner, choosing technology partners that understand how to proactively respond to changing market needs and support the evolving requirements of print businesses and end customers will be vital. The printers in Mimaki’s ‘100 series’ portfolio, which consists of the high quality, high productivity entry level roll-to-roll inkjet printers the UJV100-160 UV and the JV100-160 solvent, and the high performance textile printer, the TS100-1600, are a perfect reflection of the way technology requirements are adapting in line with the industry as we look to the future. To demonstrate this, we have identified three post-pandemic technology touchpoints that will help print businesses target success amid uncertainty.

• Productivity

The pandemic has served as a major catalyst for existing trends, and our growing appetite for everything on-demand has been given a huge COVID-related boost. For printers, a digital solution that offers premium productivity, quality and efficiency at an entry-level price point is sure to be an invaluable investment to meet evolving ‘on-demand demands’. Adding a digital production element to your business doesn’t need to be daunting, complicated or overpriced – the Mimaki ‘100 series’ truly lives up to the tagline ‘Expert Printing Made Easy’, offering an incredibly intuitive user experience for streamlined, ultra-efficient printing, high-quality output, and cost-effective implementation. The powerful and productive new textile printer in the ‘100 series’, the TS100-1600, is a shining example of equipment developed with the future of the market in mind – the textile industry is fast-paced and constantly innovating, and the printer you invest in needs to keep up with your creativity.

• Diversity

2021 is set to be a period of transition. While that will mean navigating uncertainty, the ‘glass half full’ approach is to view the year ahead in terms of opportunities such as expanding your business, exploring alternative revenue streams, and taking the plunge into new markets. In the past, it may have felt as if the barriers to entry when it came to looking beyond your core business were too great. However, in a post-pandemic world, we need to break some of those barriers down and demonstrate that success with digital print is within reach if you invest in the right equipment. With the ‘100 series’ portfolio, Mimaki is acknowledging what print service providers need from their technology partners – the UJV100-160 and the JV100-160 are suitable for a wide range of applications that will allow you to easily and affordably diversify your offering, and with the TS100-1600 textile printer, it has never been easier to target growth in the thriving textile sector, even in challenging times.

• Affordability

Affordability is one of the most significant barriers to entry into new markets. 2020 was a year of unprecedented economic challenges, so it’s more important than ever to be thinking about gaining a competitive edge, and the printers in the ‘100 series’ from Mimaki have been specifically formulated to help you ramp up productivity while keeping running costs low. Whether you want to take your first foray into digital print production, expand the services you offer or simply grow your customer base, cost can be a major sticking point, which is why supporting customers is Mimaki’s number one priority, designing the ‘100 series’ around your needs and continuing to listen to how those needs are developing. Making an investment in the JV100-160 in order to move into outdoor graphics; meeting demand for faster turnaround times by adding the instantly curable UJV100-160 to your production setup; or taking a leap into new revenue streams with the TS100-160 – it’s all ‘100’ percent accessible.

• Recycled polyester becomes a production standard for zips' tapes: a new step in Riri Group’s green path.
• Riri is the first company in the fashion accessories industry to complete its transition towards an exclusive use of recycled polyester for zips’ tapes.

To Riri, being ‘Responsible today for a sustainable tomorrow’ means looking ahead, toward a real effort in bringing sustainability in operational decisions, even if they mean more management issues and lead to changes out of the comfort zone which is the result of years of experiences and processes. Riri Group thus becomes the first manufacturing company in the fashion accessories industry to introduce the use of recycled polyester as production standard for its zip range. This achievement marks another essential one in the sustainability path that the Swiss-Italian Group has walked since the 90s. This change fits perfectly the Group’s green approach which sees innovation for the future as one of the main pillars of the corporate strategy, as well as the commitment to protecting natural resources and to improving the
traceability and transparency of both materials and processes, in a framework that sees to rethink social and economic models. Riri’s slogan “excellence in details” can also be read as “sustainability in details” as it speaks to the company’s will to act putting sustainability first.

By employing recycled polyester as production standard for the zip range, the contribution to sustainability on a quantitative level will be significant:

• The company, in fact, will reduce emissions resulting from polyester purchase by 32%; thus, carbon footprint will be cut down by 3%, for zip production. As a result, 460,000 kg of
CO2 per year is saved, the same as 169 return flights from Geneve to New York.

• All the recycled polyester is GRS (Global Recycled Standard)-certified, highlighting Riri’s constant commitment to choosing suppliers that meet the industry’s international standards.

• The recycled polyester used in tapes for zips is made from recycled polyester fibers, both  pre- (20%) and post-consumer (80%).

• An important contribution is made to the goal of increasing the global use of recycled polyester, as stated by Textile Exchange, from 14% to 20% by 2030.

This choice shows once more the ability of the company to develop products that keep in mind the environment whilst preserving functionality, reliability and that visual taste that the world of fashion requires.

Indeed, Riri has introduced its first recycled polyester tape in 2013 and since then has been consistently increasing the use of GRS-certified recycled polyester that comes from recycled materials.

“We are proud of this step and the effect that it has on sustainability and the cultural change through which we approach the development and improvement of our products” states Renato Usoni, Riri Group’s CEO. “Our innovation is the result of a tireless research of low environmental impact materials, an approach that has been the foundation of our identity for many years, but that now is renewed once more to make another step toward the future”.

• Full-width automated cleaning system will be installed on high-graphics corrugated presses

Baldwin Technology Company Inc. has successfully landed three new FlexoCleanerBrush orders, with a total of 16 cleaning heads, from customers in the US and Germany. During the COVID-19 pandemic, Baldwin has delivered a total of 30 FlexoCleanerBrush cleaning heads, thanks to close collaboration between onsite team members, local agents, the company’s global sales organization, and support from its product and technology center in Germany. With the FlexoCleanerBrush system, an inline cleaning station installed within each print unit uses a brush that runs the full width of each printing plate. Paired with a precision spray application system, the FlexoCleanerBrush evenly distributes a mixture of detergent and water across the plate as it spins, gently cleaning its surface. The plates are then dried by the integrated air knife.

“With two of the recent orders, the customers had already installed the FlexoCleanerBrush in other locations. One of them reported as much as a 30 percent production capacity increase, thanks to the  installation,” said Lee Simmonds, Regional Sales Manager at Baldwin. “Both customers have experienced insufficient results with their original traversing cloth cleaning systems, which will now be removed and replaced with the full-width, stand-alone, automated FlexoCleanerBrush technology from Baldwin.”

Improving sustainability is one of the key drivers for investments in the corrugated printing industry. The FlexoCleanerBrush dramatically cuts water waste by cleaning plates more efficiently. In a recent independent study that was conducted to validate the capacity of the automated system, the FlexoCleanerBrush could fully clean and dry all printing plates in less than four minutes and pick hickeys in seconds.

Besides offering efficient cleaning during runs and fast end-of-job cleaning, the FlexoCleanerBrush system also enables operators to remove dry plates from the machine without the potential risk of plates sticking together once they are placed back in the plateracking system. This helps to ensure increased board throughput, less downtime and a safer working environment by eliminating operators’ contact with nip points, moving parts and chemicals.

• SGL Carbon receives €42.9 million funding under IPCEI for graphite anode materials (GAM) in lithium-ion batteries
• Funding in the amount of €42.9 million to 2028 for SGL Carbon GmbH from the German Federal Government and the Free State of Bavaria
• SGL Carbon project aims at European production of innovative anode materials as a key value-added step in electromobility

SGL Carbon, a leading supplier of graphite and carbon products, today received a funding notification for the development and industrialization of innovative anode materials made of synthetic graphite for use in lithium-ion batteries. The funding program is part of the second European IPCEI (Important Project of Common European Interest) / EUBatIn (European Battery Innovation) program, which aims at a competitive European value chain for lithium-ion batteries based on innovative and sustainable technologies.

SGL Carbon is one of a few manufacturers of synthetic graphite for anode materials in Europe. The company’s contribution to the IPCEI project ranges from the development of anode materials with increased performance, energy-efficient and sustainable manufacturing processes to novel recycling concepts. It also includes scaling them up to pilot scale and finally mass production. Over the project lifetime until 2028, the goal is to also establish a closed cycle for this cell component. SGL Carbon has already created a solid foundation for the project through previous investments such as the battery application laboratory at its Meitingen site. The German federal government and the Free State of Bavaria provide funding for the SGL Carbon project totaling €42.9 million, which can be drawn down over the duration of the project.

"With our development and industrialization project for new innovative anode materials and processes, we make an essential contribution to establishing a sustainable and competitive European value chain and circular economy for lithium-ion batteries. In turn, this enables us to support our customers with tailored materials and services in their innovation and industrialization process. We are very pleased about the support from the federal and state governments in this important task and would like to express our sincere thanks," explains Burkhard Straube, President Business Unit Graphite Solutions at SGL Carbon.

"In order to produce competitive, high-performance and particularly environmentally friendly batteries in the future, we need innovations. The companies participating in the IPCEIs base their battery materials, cells and systems pursued in the projects on their own research - in cooperation with their partners. This way, we ensure that the battery ecosystem being created in Germany and Europe will also place us among the world leaders in terms of technology," says Elisabeth Winkelmeier-Becker, Parliamentary State Secretary at the German Federal Ministry of Economics and Technology.

"The funding ensures value creation in a central high-tech segment with great future potential, which is ideally suited to Bavaria as a business location. In the course of the project, 25 jobs will be secured or newly created in Meitingen. SGL Carbon is an important company for the entire region and a major employer," says Hubert Aiwanger, Bavarian Minister of Economic Affairs and Bavarian Deputy Minister-President.
 
Synthetic graphite is utilized as anode material for lithium-ion batteries in many fast-growing applications such as electric vehicles, stationary energy storage systems and mobile consumer devices. Compared to natural graphite, synthetic graphite has a better performance, higher quality consistency and easier production scalability, as well as a better profile in terms of environmental footprint and safety in manufacturing. In the project described, SGL Carbon builds on its core competencies in the development and mass production of synthetic graphite.

Financial Year 2020

As a consequence of the COVID-19 pandemic, Rieter closed the 2020 financial year with sales of CHF 573.0 million, which corresponds to a decrease of 25% compared to the previous year (2019: CHF 760.0 million). Due to the low sales volume, a loss of CHF 84.4 million was recorded at the EBIT level while at the net profit level the loss was CHF 89.8 million. In view of the loss in the 2020 financial year, the Board of Directors proposes that shareholders waive the payment of a dividend for 2020.

Order intake of CHF 640.2 million in the 2020 financial year was 31% down on the previous year (2019: CHF 926.1 million). Following the significant slump in demand in the second quarter of 2020 (CHF 45.7 million), order intake recovered in the third quarter (CHF 174.4 million) and improved further in the fourth quarter (CHF 215.1 million).

At the end of 2020, the company had an order backlog of about CHF 560 million (December 31, 2019: about CHF 500 million).

Business Groups
Sales of the Business Group Machines & Systems amounted to CHF 295.8 million in 2020, which corresponds to a decrease of 24% compared to the previous year. Due to the low volume and taking into account the expenditure on the ongoing innovation program, the business group recorded a loss of CHF 72.4 million at the EBIT level. Order intake in the reporting year was CHF 363.9 million (-35% compared to the previous year).

The Business Group Components with sales of CHF 174.3 million (-24% compared to the previous year) achieved a profit of CHF 1.4 million at the EBIT level before restructuring charges. EBIT after restructuring charges was CHF -5.5 million. The order intake with CHF 169.1 million (-24% compared to the previous year) was just below sales.

The Business Group After Sales achieved sales of CHF 102.9 million (-27% compared to the previous year) and a positive EBIT of CHF 1.8 million. Order intake was CHF 107.2 million (-24% compared to the previous year). Over 60% of spinning mills were shut down in the second quarter of 2020, with a corresponding impact on the demand for spare parts.

Dividend
Due to the loss of CHF 89.8 million at the net profit level in the 2020 financial year, the Board of Directors proposes that shareholders waive the distribution of a dividend.

Outlook
Rieter expects the market recovery that began in the second half of 2020 to continue in 2021. The company expects an order intake in the first half of 2021 exceeding that of the previous half year (second half of 2020: CHF 389.5 million). Thanks to the improved capacity utilization, Rieter is planning short-time working in only a few areas in the first half of 2021. Nonetheless, as already announced, Rieter still anticipates that sales in the first half of 2021 will be below the break-even point. In connection with the high order backlog at the beginning of 2021, Rieter expects an operating profit for the full year 2021.

Flexibility, product uniformity and automation are the keys to success for coating businesses in today’s rapidly-changing technical textiles industry, explained Jürgen Hanel, Monforts Head of Technical Textiles, at the recent 1st World Congress on Textile Coating.

Introducing the latest Montex®Coat magnetic roller coating option to virtual delegates from around the world at the conference organised by International Newsletters, Hanel explained why this technology makes perfect sense now

“The magnetic roller system allows a wide range of coatings and finishes to be carried out, while being easy to handle for operators and much easier to clean at the end of the process,” he said. “It provides textile finishers with an expanded range of options due to the fully-adjustable positioning of the magnet within the roller and with four different magnet positions possible, can be set to operate both as a direct coating system and as an indirect coater.”

With traditional dip coating systems, he added, as well as with many standard knife coating technologies, there is always a difference in the tension between the centre and the edges of the wide width fabrics being treated – and hence the amount of pressure with which the coating is applied. With the use of a magnetic roller, equal pressure is applied across the full width of the fabric, with consistent results even at wide widths of over 2.4 metres. In addition, adjusting the roller surface, rather than changing the coating formulation to match the required add-on and viscosity for each coating effect required, leads to much higher output from the line.

Cleaner and less wasteful
The contribution of such flexible and resource-saving new technologies to a cleaner and less wasteful textile industry was a key theme at the congress – held virtually across the four afternoons of February 11th, 12th, 18th and 19th – as was digitalization and the many advantages it is providing.

“A typical integrated Monforts coating line is automated from the inlet feed to the winder,” Hanel told delegates. “Adjustments can also be made simply and easily from the touchscreen and with the new hand-held remote controller which has recently been introduced for the Montex®Coat unit.”

Manual adjustment, he added, is time consuming and needs the attention of an experienced operator or the reproducibility will not be accurate between coating operations. The adjustment by motors allows each coating to be stored and downloaded again for 100% reproducibility.

The motors can be fully controlled from the touchscreen and all necessary adjustments carried out remotely, making switching from one process to another extremely quick and easy.
The accuracy that is now being demanded by today’s most exacting customers is met with an optional carbon fibre roller – especially in dealing with the winding tension required in the processing of materials such as prepregs for composites and other heavyweight fabrics. Typical applications for the Montex®Coat include the finishing of tents and awnings, black-out roller blinds and sail cloth, automotive interior fabrics and medical disposables. Full PVC coatings, pigment dyeing or minimal application surface and low penetration treatments can all be accommodated.

“The World Congress on Textile Coating was characterised by some very stimulating presentations and forums between the speakers and a global audience of textile specialists,” Jürgen Hanel concluded. “It truly reflected the high level of positive changes now taking place in not just textile coating, but the entire textile industry. I look forward to the next edition, which hopefully will be a face-to-face event for even deeper level discussions and debate.”

Dow introduces DOWSIL™ IE-8749 Emulsion, a new generation of durable water repellent finishes for fabrics based on silicone chemistry.

Studies conducted on a variety of textiles substrates based on DOWSIL™ IE-8749 Emulsion treatment demonstrate improved fabric retention compared to standard silicone finishes – thereby providing continued water repellency after multiple washes. Unlike many conventional finishes, DOWSIL™ IE-8749 Emulsion finish does not need to be regularly heat treated to restore the water repellency performance, which is a key advantage for the durability of the final product.

By incorporating a DOWSIL™ IE-8749 Emulsion treatment into their finishing processes, textile finishers receive greater control over the hand feel of the fabric - an important parameter driving consumer choices today. Depending on specific need, this can range, from a very soft hand feel that is characteristic of silicone when used alone, to a firmer hand with the addition of cross linkers.

The technology powering DOWSIL™ IE-8749 Emulsion was developed through a collaboration between Dow and Nicca Chemical.

Reinach, Switzerland, and Westlake, Ohio, 2 February 2021 - Archroma, a global leader in specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, today announced a strategic partnership with technology innovator CleanKore, aiming to advance sustainable dyeing processes throughout the denim supply chain.

The agreement will allow Archroma and CleanKore to promote the benefits of each other’s technologies. This includes Archroma’s robust catalog of dyes and specialty chemicals along with CleanKore’s patented process of dyeing yarns at the denim mill that completely eliminates the need for potassium permanganate (PP) spray and laser booster to achieve the bright white abrasion effect in the garment finishing process. The result is a large and circular bright white core with a small ring of indigo dye. The technology does not just eliminate the chemicals associated in the PP spray and laser process, which is much safer for denim workers, it also allows to save significant amounts of water and energy throughout the manufacturing process from fabric to garmenting.

CleanKore initially looked at eliminating potassium permanganate due to its being classified as hazardous if inhaled or ingested, or in case of contact with the skin or the eye. It is also considered very toxic to aquatic life. No new equipment or capital expenses are needed to implement the CleanKore technology, which works on all denim fabric, including dark indigo, sulfur top/bottom and sulfur black.

This is where Archroma comes into the picture. Its global technical team of denim coloration specialists will provide support to denim mills seeking to implement the CleanKore technology and develop the desired looks and effects - with the right colors and chemical systems for their production set-up.

CleanKore estimates that the technology allows to save up to 15 liters of water per garment, or the equivalent to the drinking needs of 5 people per day, and up to 0.51 kWh of energy per garment, or the equivalent of five 100-watt light bulbs on for 1 hour. The CleanKore technology also leads to a 10% to 20% increase in production throughput, as a result of a faster garment wash-down and the elimination of PP spray.

For CleanKore CEO Darryl Costin Jr., the announcement comes at an ideal time for CleanKore: "We have successfully proven the technology with mill partners such as Arvind and other denim mills in Pakistan, Bangladesh, China, Vietnam, Thailand and the United States. The response from the industry has been overwhelmingly positive. Having a partner in Archroma, one that is highly respected for their innovation and emphasis on sustainability throughout the industry, will allow us to take CleanKore to the next level.”

Umberto Devita, Global Indigo Manager at the Archroma Global Competence Center for Denim & Casualwear, adds: "CleanKore is perfectly aligned with the 3 pillars of 'The Archroma Way to a Sustainable World: Safe, efficient, enhanced'. 'Safe' through the elimination of a potentially harmful substance and the protection of the denim workers, 'Efficient' through the reduction of resource consumption, improved productivity and cost-effective profile. And 'Enhanced' through the gorgeous colors and effects allowed with Archroma's innovations and systems, in particular our aniline-free* Denisol® Pure Indigo and Diresul® sulfur dyes. We look forward to help promoting an innovation that will help with many of the challenges facing our denim customers throughout the world. Because it’s our nature."