From the Sector

From April 2023, OEKO-TEX® will officially launch its new ORGANIC COTTON label. Two initial pilot customers have already been certified by the testing service provider Hohenstein: the Indian textile supplier Milan Group and the Turkish cotton producer Akasya.

The new organic label ensures that all requirements for labeling as organic cotton are met. In addition to testing in accordance with OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100, it ensures that the cotton contains less than ten percent genetically modified material, complies with pesticide limits and guarantees its organic origin.

Textile companies whose products have been certified with the OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100 can now have their certificates extended to an ORGANIC COTTON certificate after ensuring ecological production.

"A combination with OEKO-TEX® MADE IN GREEN is ideal," explains Ivonne Schramm, Head of OEKO-TEX® at Hohenstein. "This ensures environmental friendliness, transparency and socially responsible conditions in a single certification."

The certificate can be used for ready-made articles (e.g. T-shirt, bedspread, etc.) as well as for textile intermediate products (e.g. intermediate products such as raw fibers, yarns, etc.). Mixtures of organic and conventional cultivation are not permitted.

• Style3D is sole shareholder of Assyst
• Integration of both product lines from 3D design to production
• Assyst remains independent within Style3D

Assyst GmbH is as of now part of Style3D. The German fashion technology market leader and the leading 3D software company are joining forces. For Assyst customers and partners nothing will change.
 
Die Assyst GmbH betreibt ihre Geschäfte weiterhin eigenständig, entwickelt alle ihre Produkte weiter und strebt mit Style3D eine gemeinsame, durchgängige Produktwelt an. Der erste gemeinsame Auftritt des Assyst-Style3D-Teams findet bereits auf der Assyst Experience im Rahmen der Munich Fabric Start (24.-26. Januar 2023) statt.

Assyst will continue to operate its business independently and to develop, sell, and service all its existing products. Style3D and Assyst will start to integrate their products into a universal, seamless product world. The Assyst-Style3D team will make its first joint appearance already at the end of January at the Assyst Experience at Munich Fabric Start (24-26 January 2023).

Both companies are deeply rooted in apparel development and production: Style3D in Asia and Assyst in EMEA. Together, they are planning to create a global product offering for producers and brands that covers the entire apparel value chain from development to production and the various sales touchpoints.

Starting point will be the integration of the flagship products of both companies – Style3D and Assyst.CAD. Style3D is currently the most advanced 3D fashion design software with a high growth rate globally. While Assyst is market leader with its 2D CAD technology in Germany, Austria, Italy and Switzerland and offers a seamless software portfolio from 2D and 3D CAD to production (Automarker) and to all sales touchpoints.

Major driver of the merger is the companies’ complimentary technology offering and the vision to create a seamless digital process from providing digital fabric and accessories up to the realization of products.

The merger also strengthens Assyst's competitive position in the 3D design sector. Style3D, in turn, will benefit from Assyst's expertise in the development, CAD and digital simulation of apparel products and the access to the international market.

Looking ahead to the future, both parties will offer 2D-based & 3D-based one-stop solutions for business clients leveraging on their global tech base and complementary serviceable resource dominance. On January 24-26, the Assyst-Style3D team will meet clients and present its products at the Assyst Experience at Munich Fabric Start.

Valérius 360 wanted to make a sustainable, circular approach possible in the fashion industry. Working together with Trützschler, a collaborative project has now achieved high-quality recycled yarn – opening up massive potential to drive measurable progress toward a circular and sustainable textile industry.

Testing at the Trützschler Technical Center
The team from Valérius 360 wanted to find ways of improving the processes for yarns made from 50 % recycled and 50 % virgin cotton (Ne30). In particular, it was seeking ways to reduce thick and thin spots, which disturb the appearance of the textile surface.

At the Trützschler Technical Center in Mönchengladbach, they conducted special trials that showed that using a direct spinning process for this application delivers much better results than a process with a draw frame passage for rotor yarns.

In direct spinning, the sliver from the card is directly drawn in the draw frame which is integrated in the can stock. This involves one less process step than using an autoleveller draw frame, while also saving space and giving staff more time for other operations.

On-site support from Trützschler Customer Service
The team from Valérius 360 also received in-house training from the Trützschler Customer Service department. Together, they analyzed and significantly improved the process at the Valérius 360 production site. This helped to bring yarns made from recycled raw materials up to the required level of the 50% Usterstatistics. This is the reference level for yarns made from virgin raw materials. Accordingly, 50 % of all yarn producers with raw cotton for rotor yarns and comparable yarn counts produce a poorer quality.

A new cold chamber at its headquarters in Winterthur, Switzerland, enables Autoneum to optimize existing technologies as well as simulation and engineering services in vehicle thermal management and to adapt them to the changing thermal requirements of electric vehicles

The absence of heat from the internal combustion engine in electric vehicles as well as the impact of ambient temperature on the performance and lifetime of lithium-ion batteries are changing the requirements for vehicle thermal management. In addition, the energy from the battery is used not only to power the e-motor but also to thermally manage the battery itself and to warm and cool the car cabin by means of the heating, ventilation and air conditioning system. To increase the thermal comfort of the occupants and at the same time ensure optimum battery performance, save energy and thus increase the car’s range, manufacturers are placing increasing emphasis on efficient overall thermal management of the vehicle.

The chamber enables to test both occupants’ subjective perception of thermal comfort and the performance of components and entire vehicles under controlled temperature conditions of up to minus 20 degrees Celsius. It is thus a valuable addition to the existing testing and bench-marking facilities at the Company’s global research and development centers. The tests conducted in the chamber show how existing insulating components such as under battery shields, carpets and interior trim need to be optimized to further enhance the thermal management of the vehicle battery and cabin. The tests also provide valuable insights regarding the development and optimization of heated surfaces such as floor mats and door trim panels to improve thermal performance and driver comfort of electric vehicles.

With the opening of another laboratory in Shanghai, China, testing service provider Hohenstein is growing its international network. Starting in the first quarter of 2023, the new textile laboratory in the Pudong District industrial park will supplement the Hong Kong laboratory capacity with testing and on-site inspection services in the hot spots of textile production.

The new laboratory will offer suppliers, manufacturers, brands, and retailers a wide range of testing service on textile quality. "Hohenstein stands for innovation and quality. We are very pleased to celebrate another milestone in our international expansion, while following these principles," said Prof. Dr. Stefan Mecheels, who is the third generation to lead the family-run company. "No matter where the examinations, tests and analyses are carried out, all our laboratories work with state-of-the-art equipment and the same high standards."

The laboratory locations in Germany, Hungary, Hong Kong, Bangladesh, India and now Shanghai, offer shortened turnaround and sample transport times. In some locations, Hohenstein offers sample pick up services from the customer to the lab for testing.

Trützschler Card Clothing (TCC), technology leader in the manufacture of high-performance card clothings for textile yarn processing, is expanding its site in Neubulach, Germany. With the twelve-million-euro investment, the supplier for the international textile machinery industry is expanding its production, warehouse and office capacities. A groundbreaking ceremony will take place during the coming winter.

The new building will expand the warehouse and logistics area by 600 square meters, to make a total area of 2,800 square meters. In the optimized cube of the new hall, a modern warehouse system will double the storage capacity. There will also be a fully automated warehouse for coils for sawtooth wires. During the construction phase, logistics and shipping will be temporarily outsourced to Pforzheim-Büchenbronn.

The move into the new building is planned for 2024. TCC will also expand the range of services and the production intensity at the site, while optimizing the process flows. Trützschler intends to recruit the additional employees required within a short timeframe by hiring new staff and offering apprenticeships at the Neubulach site. TCC employs more than 130 people in Germany, with a further 220 people employed worldwide at locations in Brazil, China, India, Mexico, Turkey and the USA.

Overall, the production area will be expanded from 4,000 to 5,400 square meters. This will enable the process flows to be optimized. The office space will be increased to 1,000 square meters. An additional level of the building will provide modern workplaces for administration and sales.

The new building will also improve access and exit routes for truck traffic. This will provide considerable relief for the local neighborhood in terms of noise emissions and other factors. Good integration into the region is very important to Trützschler. All contracts for planning, construction and air conditioning technology have been awarded to local companies.

In the future, TCC will operate its production facility in Neubulach in a climate-neutral manner. This will contribute important progress toward achieving the ambitious climate goals of the Trützschler Group. The new production facility will meet the highest requirements for energy efficiency and climate protection. Heating is provided by process heat recovery and geothermal energy. In addition, the company produces green electricity via its own solar panels.

"By expanding our business here in Neubulach, we are strengthening our presence in this area and our leading global market position too," says Managing Director Peter Gäbler. The Trützschler Group SE is also investing in India to build a new site with over 100,000 square meters for the Spinning, Card Clothing and Nonwovens business units. "It is important to be close to the customer worldwide because our foreign companies make a significant contribution to the success of the Group," says Gäbler.

TCC achieved another record sales result in 2021. Demand for the technology components for carding fibers in spinning mills and for carding in nonwovens production has increased significantly. The steel sawtooth wires, which are wound onto coils and produced for customers around the globe, eventually get worn down by use in production processes – so it is necessary to replace them regularly. For this reason, further growth is expected in 2022 and beyond.

Swiss-based SANITIZED AG is increasing its innovation expertise by appointing a new CTO, Dr. Martin Čadek, who will oversee global technological activities for the specialist antimicrobial hygiene brand. Dr. Čadek will lead the company’s Competence Centre for Technology Innovation and will focus on breaking new ground to develop innovations in sustainability.

Dr. Čadek is a graduate physicist with a master’s degree in polymer science with many years’ experience in the industry working with polymers, fibres, industrial textiles, and extruded polymers. He is joining SANITIZED AG from his most recent role as Managing Director for German subsidiary the Flint Group. His previous roles include the Global Head of Innovation for Energy and Polymer Systems at Evonik/Orion, the Head of Extrusion Technology Business Unit in Europe for Emerell AG, and work with the SGL Group.

The Competence Centre for Technology & Innovation will provide services to all three of SANITIZED’s business units: Textiles, Polymer Additives, and Coatings and Preservation. It will be built on top of SANITIZED’s TecCenter for Analytics, Microbiology and Applications and its regulatory department.

The plan of the European Commission to propose a price cap on wholesale gas price at 275€/MWh would be a bitter disappointment for the European textiles and clothing manufacturers, said EURATEX.

November 22nd, EURATEX stated in a letter to EC President, Ursula von der Leyen, that any price cap above the level of 80€euro/MWh would not help the EU industry – the textile sector in particular – to survive the current crisis. Indeed as early as July 2021, the wholesale gas price in the EU was below 30€/MWh. Now, the EU industry is facing gas and energy prices that have exceeded any coping capacity: from the record-high 320€/MWh last August, the price has reached to 127€/MWh today. Still, it is more than 300% than the business as usual prices.

The very existence of the European industry is at stake and with it the European sustainability agenda – and Europe’s capacity to implement it. Furthermore, Europe will lose its strategic autonomy, which guarantees essential goods and services are made available on the European Internal Market. If we continue on this path, the EU will soon become totally dependent on foreign imports with no leverage to implement its sustainability agenda, let alone lead the transition to a circular economy on the international stage.

At present, the EU industry is facing a dire international competition with the industry in China, India and the US working at energy prices of around 10$/MWh. In addition, these competitors are benefitting of sky-high subsidies from their own governments: the rollout of the US $369bln industrial subsidy scheme is just the latest example.

EURATEX Director General, Dirk Vantyghem, believes that “while the EU Industry is under immense, unprecedented pressure, a price cap at 275€/MWh would be meaningless: the European industry will be permanently pushed out on the market. The industry is at the heart of the European way of life and the fundament of our social market economy. The EU must save its industry to save Europe. The moment to act is now.”

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry convened 500 absorbent hygiene and personal care professionals from 30 countries and throughout the supply chain to participate in the eighth edition of Hygienix™ – the premier event for absorbent hygiene & personal care markets – held in New Orleans, Louisiana, Nov. 14-17.

The program kicked off with recycling approaches for disposable absorbent hygiene waste, followed by business impacts of period product legislation and regulation, new menstrual products, consumer trends, and three finalist presentations for the 2022 Hygienix Innovation Award™.

The event also included presentations from 18 other industry experts along with 13 hours of scheduled face-to-face networking, and 50 tabletop display exhibits and banquet receptions on Tuesday and Wednesday nights.

One highlight of the event was the presentation of INDA’s prestigious Hygienix Innovation Award™ to Egal Pads for Pads on a Roll™ a wrapped super-thin absorbent period pad that dispenses like toilet paper in public bathroom stalls. The product aims to prevent the personal embarrassment of not having a menstrual product when needed.

INDA President Tony Fragnito presented the 2022 INDA Lifetime Service Award to Dave Rousse, INDA President Emeritus, for his long-established service to the nonwovens industry and INDA. Rousse led the acquisition of the INSIGHT conference, and combined the INDA Vision Conference to launch the Hygienix™ conference for the absorbent hygiene and personal care market in 2015, and initiated the purchase of INDA Media.

Hygienix™ 2023 will be held Nov 13-16, in New Orleans, Louisiana .

Aim: Reducing returns and thus increasing sustainability in fashion e-commerce

Hohenstein, a global market leader in apparel sizing and fit development, has invested in AI technology startup, Sizekick. The collaboration will enable accurate decisions on apparel size, improving online shopping experiences, reducing returns and preventing the associated CO2 emissions.

Hohenstein’s 1.3 million Euro investment in the 2022 startup will drive growth in the Sizekick team and enable the 2023 launch of its smartphone app for online shoppers.  The technology will enable online shoppers to find the right clothing size in a few seconds via smartphone.

Sizekick puts an end to unnecessary size-related returns in fashion online retail. The Munich-based company uses artificial intelligence and computer vision technology to recommend the right clothing size to customers in partner web stores. With the help of the integrated Sizekick software and a smartphone, anyone can find the right size in a few seconds. Fashion and sports brands, but also multi-brand stores or marketplaces can integrate the "Sizekick Button" in their online store. Sizekick offers its solution as Software-as-a-Service (SaaS).

"The strategic partnership with Hohenstein enables us, as a new AI solution, to meet the high demands of the market right at the start and to take on the role of technology leader. Our artificial intelligence is already learning thanks to the comprehensive Hohenstein database of 3D body scans. This is an extremely big advantage for our AI," highlights Jake Lydon, CTO at Sizekick.