From the Sector

Der Beschluss zur Einführung des Mindestlohns jährt sich 2024 zum zehnten Mal. Die vom Gesetzgeber eingerichtete unabhängige Mindestlohnkommission, bestehend aus Vertretern der Sozialpartner sowie zwei beratenden Mitgliedern aus der Wissenschaft, hatte zuletzt im Juni 2023 eine Erhöhung des gesetzlichen Mindestlohns auf 12,41 Euro brutto je Zeitstunde in diesem Jahr und auf 12,82 Euro zum 1. Januar 2025 beschlossen.

Zuvor war 2021 eine einmalige Erhöhung des Mindestlohns auf 12 Euro per Gesetz durch den Koalitionsvertrag der Ampelregierung festgelegt worden. Etwaige weitere Erhöhungsschritte würden im Anschluss von der unabhängigen Mindestlohnkommission befunden.

Dass sich Bundeskanzler Olaf Scholz nun öffentlich für die Erhöhung des Mindestlohns auf 14 und im nächsten Schritt auf 15 Euro ausspricht, sieht Südwesttextil als Wirtschafts- und Arbeitgeberverband der baden-württembergischen Textil- und Bekleidungsindustrie kritisch. Hauptgeschäftsführerin Edina Brenner: „Die Mindestlohnkommission ist mit einer Gesamtabwägung der Höhe des Mindestlohns beauftragt, die neben dem Mindestschutz von Arbeitnehmenden auch faire und funktionierende Wettbewerbsbedingungen sowie die Gefährdung von Beschäftigung berücksichtigen soll. Die Unabhängigkeit dieser Abwägung und die gesetzlich festgelegte Struktur sollten nicht beeinflusst und die Tarifautonomie nicht gefährdet werden.“

ITM, to be held in Istanbul at the beginning of June, will once again see a strong participation of VDMA member companies. Almost 90 exhibitors from Germany will exhibit at the trade fair, most of whom are members of the VDMA. In addition to the VDMA member companies exhibiting with their own booth, numerous VDMA members will be represented in Istanbul via agents. They cover nearly all different machinery chapters with a focus on spinning, nonwovens, weaving, knitting, warp knitting and finishing.

In Istanbul, the VDMA members will show their latest innovations. In technological terms, significant trends are digitalisation and automation. These themes have been present for some time but will continue to play a central role in meeting the challenges for many years to come. Another trend that has also been around for a while is sustainability. Today it is much more than a buzzword: Efficiency in energy, raw materials or water as well as recycling are not feel-good issues but have a real economic and social background.

For the textile machinery manufacturers organised in the VDMA, Turkey is a major trading partner. In 2023, textile machinery and accessories worth approximately 350 million euros were exported from Germany to Turkey, which made Turkey the second biggest sales market for German companies. After three years in which China was the most important supplier of textile machinery to Turkey, Germany has now regained this top position.

Turkey is at the doorstep of Europe, which gives Turkish textile producers a powerful geographic advantage over Asian sourcing destinations. The textile companies in the region have a deep experience and know-how in making the highest quality textile and apparel for leading markets of Europe and employs a young, dynamic, and well-educated workforce.

But ITM is not just a place for visitors from Turkey, as Dr. Harald Weber, Managing Director of the VDMA Textile Machinery Association explains: “It should not be forgotten that ITM not only attracts visitors from Turkey, but also from the Middle East, Central Asia and North Africa. Turkey's proximity to the European Union and its fully integrated textile value chain also make it interesting in terms of the EU's strategy for sustainable and circular textiles and the increasing importance of recycling in the future.”

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, announced the three finalists for the World of Wipes Innovation Award®. The Award will be presented at the annual World of Wipes® (WOW) International Conference, June 17-20, at the Hyatt Regency Minneapolis in Minneapolis, Minnesota.

The three products vying for this Award are multi-purpose cleaning wipes from Kimberly-Clark Professional, a bio-binder technology from OrganoClick, and facial care wipes from Rockline Industries. The winner will be announced on Thursday morning, June 20th.

The three companies competing for the Award are:

• Scott® Xtreme Multi-Purpose Cleaning Wipes by Kimberly-Clark Professional:
  Scott® Xtreme Multi-Purpose Cleaning Wipes are great for tackling extreme cleaning tasks, like removing oil, grease, grime, paint, adhesives, caulk, and more, yet are gentle enough to clean hands.  Featuring a patented citrus cleaning solution, the dual-action cleaning fabric incorporates a textured side to increase scrubbing action for cleaning tough soils and a smooth side for wiping surfaces clean.  Scott® Xtreme Multi-Purpose Cleaning Wipes are truly a must-have for any DIY job and cleaning on-the-go.
• OC-Biobinder® Lily1450 by OrganoClick:
  OC-Biobinder® represents a series of bio-based and biodegradable binders intended for the nonwoven and paper industry. They are produced from renewable raw materials and residual streams from the food industry and replace traditional fossil-based plastic binders. OC-Biobinder® is available with many different properties adapted to the production of home compostable nonwoven materials such as premium napkins, table cloths and wet wipes.
• Facial Care Wipe with Glycine Amino Acid Complex by Rockline Industries:
  Rockline’s development of a facial wipe product containing a unique multifunctional complex of two glycines, a phospholipid compound and a blend of glycols allows for a multitude of skincare benefits as well as providing a self-preserving system for cellulosic nonwovens. Believed to be the first application of glycines in a wet wipe formulation, the product offers improved skin smoothness, elasticity, and hydration alongside an anti-aging claim.

INDA’s Technical Advisory Board selected the finalists based on the creativity, uniqueness, and technical sophistication employed in finding novel ways to expand the utilization of nonwovens. Categories considered for the award were wipes-related raw materials, roll goods, converting, packaging, active ingredients, binders, additives, and end-use products.

The 2023 World of Wipes Innovation Award winner was Indorama Ventures and Polymateria for their Nonwoven Wipe Using Biotransformation Technology. This innovative spunlace wipe utilized advanced biotransformation technology developed jointly by Indorama Ventures and Polymateria. Meeting the BSI PAS 9017 specification, this wipe in the event it becomes fugitive, and exposed to heat, sunlight, air and moisture will transform into a harmless, bioavailable wax at its end-of-life, eliminating microplastic pollution. Compatible with mechanical recycling and combatting 'fugitive' waste, this wipe represents a significant leap towards eco-friendly, sustainable nonwoven hygiene products.

Trützschler Nonwovens will participate in the ANEX 2024 exhibition (May 22 to 24, 2024 in Taipei, Taiwan). Attendees will be able to explore sustainable nonwoven solutions tailored for flushable wipes with the pulp-based CP and WLS lines, as well as other cutting-edge offerings such as the needle-punched line T-SUPREMA for technical nonwovens.

Der drupa Imaging Summit greift am 30. und 31. Mai 2024 aktuelle Themen rund um das gedruckte Bild, spezielle Technologien und Business Cases auf. Themen, wie z.B. die Zukunft fotografischer Innovationen, die Bilderzeugung mit künstlicher Intelligenz, die Priorität von Nachhaltigkeitsthemen oder die Klärung der Frage, was Bildqualität für den Druck bedeutet, werden beleuchtet.

Hochkarätige Referentinnen und Referenten halten rund 20 Keynotes zu den Themen Technologie, Business, Nachhaltigkeit, Innovation und künstliche Intelligenz sowie zur besonderen Beziehung zwischen Bildern, Bilddaten und Druck.

Begleitet wird der drupa Imaging Summit von der Fotoausstellung 1253 m" des Fotografen Ralf Baumgarten. Die Ausstellung zeigt Bilder aus dem letzten deutschen Steinkohlebergwerk „Prosper Haniel“ in einer Tiefe von 1253 Metern. Die Ausstellung wurde mit zwei analogen Canon F-1 Kameras aus den 1970er Jahren fotografiert. Als Teil der drupa demonstrieren die Exponate die visuelle Kraft perfekt gedruckter Fotos. Die DNA der Fotografie als Printmedium ist es, entscheidende Momente einzufangen und für den Betrachter erlebbar zu machen.

The Dibella sales team continues to grow. Since the first of May, Thomas Kmoch has been supporting customers from South Tyrol, Austria and Switzerland.

Dibella welcomes Thomas Kmoch, an experienced member of staff, to the team. Due to his previous twenty years as an authorised signatory and sales director at Damino GmbH, the sales specialist brings with him in-depth knowldge of flat linen for contract business and comprehensive industry expertise.

At Dibella, Thomas Kmoch is primarily responsible for supporting existing customers and building new customer relationships in South Tyrol, Austria and Switzerland. The company is thus further strengthening ist focus on these three regions.

Vision and technology are the key ingredients of a ground-breaking school blazer that is showing how businesses can move to a circular textiles economy.  
 
While many brands are grappling with the complexities of inevitable legislation and engrained business models, leading school uniform producer, David Luke, has launched a fully recyclable ‘circular’ school blazer that is designed to be recycled through Project Re:claim, the world’s first commercial-scale polyester recycling plant.
 
Project Re:claim is a joint venture between the UK’s largest charity textile collector, The Salvation Army, and leading circularity specialists Project Plan B. The plant opened in the UK in January 2024, and presents huge opportunities for brands to transition to textile-to-textile manufacturing models.
 
David Luke’s circular blazer has been introduced to the brand’s successful Eco-uniform range which has sold over 1.7 million Eco-blazers in the last decade. Up until 2023, David Luke’s Eco-blazer, like many recycled garments, has been made from recycled plastic bottles. But the company has been working with Tim Cross, CEO of Project Plan B and the Circular Textiles Foundation, to bring the 100% recyclable blazer to market.
 
Tim Cross said: “David Luke has grasped the opportunity to embed 100% recyclable and 100% recycled garments into their range, starting with the school blazer. We now have the technology to enable their blazers to be recycled without any separation of the garment, making it an efficient recycling process. The team at David Luke has worked tirelessly with their manufacturers to create a blazer that does not compromise on design or quality, and yet is much kinder to the environment.”
 
Every detail from the lining, buttons and zips to the inter-linings and adhesives, has been re-thought and re-designed to meet the demands of an everyday school blazer and to recycle the garment once it reaches its end-of-life. Up until now, when the blazers have eventually been handed down to siblings, or given to the local charity shop, there had been no end-of-life solution for polyester garments apart from incineration. Now, Project Re:claim can recycle the blazer to produce polyester pellets, which are then spun into yarn to be used for future David Luke circular blazers.
 
Cross continues: “David Luke has the vision to create a fully circular range, and we have the potential to supply recycled content. The possibilities are infinite in terms of the future of garment design and manufacturing.”
 
Kathryn Shuttleworth, Chief Executive of David Luke, said: “It is a natural next step for us to transition to a textile-to-textile model. We have been producing garments using recycled plastic bottles for 15 years, but we have always had an eye on developments in textile recycling and solutions for end-of-life garments.”
 
In 2020, David Luke was awarded the Queen’s award for Enterprise for Sustainable Development and in January 2023 the David Luke circular blazer achieved Circular Foundation Textile certification.
 
Shuttleworth added: “Our focus will always be on those essential ingredients for parents and children - style, durability and affordability. But we have a responsibility to change our business model to better protect children’s future and the environment. It has become our obsession to make uniforms that meet our customers’ demands. We are really excited about the future as we continue to develop our range.”
 
Majonne Frost, Head of Environment and Sustainability for Salvation Army Trading Company, said: “Our vision is to enable companies to produce uniforms, corporate wear, fashion garments and textile ranges using recycled polyester.  We have the infrastructure to collect donations at scale and we now need companies to step up. This is an opportunity for companies to make a commitment to significantly reduce their environmental impact, and David Luke are showing us how that is possible.”

On the occasion of the 15-year anniversary of the inaugural Global Fashion Summit, Global Fashion Agenda (GFA) has released a special edition of the Fashion CEO Agenda  — a strategic resource designed to steer fashion organisations towards achieving a net positive industry by 2050. In line with the 2024 theme of Global Fashion Summit, ‘Unlocking the Next Level’, this year’s Fashion CEO Agenda presents five pivotal opportunities for fashion executives and the industry at large to unlock transformative impact for people and planet.

In the 15 years since the inception of Global Fashion Summit in 2009, sustainability has evolved from a peripheral concern to a central focus in the fashion business landscape, prompting significant strides across the industry. Despite this progress, the alarming escalation of global warming and exponential rise in clothing production demand urgent and collective action from fashion industry leaders.

Unlocking the next level of positive impact necessitates a comprehensive understanding of interdependencies and system-wide solutions. The 2024 edition of the Fashion CEO Agenda aims to empower fashion leaders and the wider industry to embrace five key opportunities:

• Operationalising Sustainability
• Redefining Growth
• Activating Consumers
• Prioritising People
• Mobilising Based on Materiality

Drawing from the five priorities of the Fashion CEO Agenda — Respectful and Secure Work Environments, Better Wage Systems, Resource Stewardship, Smart Material Choices, and Circular Systems — this special edition highlights five cross-cutting opportunities that will help achieve the next level of progress on these priorities.

Tailored for fashion brands, retailers, and producers, this edition of the Fashion CEO Agenda differs from previous editions as it focuses on challenging norms and amplifying efforts, and serves as a crucial inflection point for the industry to foster positive outcomes for both society and the environment. By upholding the rights of workers, championing diversity and inclusivity, redefining success metrics, and reshaping growth paradigms, profound transformation is possible.
 
Federica Marchionni, CEO, Global Fashion Agenda, says: “The Fashion CEO Agenda 2024 aims to help leaders to shift their mindset, providing clear unlocks for embracing the challenges for future proofing their businesses and operations. I urgently encourage leaders to work closely with cross-functional teams, use empathy, and a values-based approach that prioritises the planet and the well-being of the people. By doing so, we secure the foundation of our businesses and deliver not only financial returns but also positive impact on the world around us.”

Through renowned events, impact programmes, and thought leadership publications, GFA consistently convenes industry pioneers, shares tangible case studies, disseminates best practices, and highlights practical tools. While recognising the enduring utility of these resources, stakeholders are now encouraged to build upon existing insights and embrace increasingly sophisticated, holistic, and human-centric opportunities to unlock the next level of industry transformation across the entire value chain.

The Fashion CEO Agenda 2024 is an openly accessible resource and available to download at the GFA’s website

The Trevira CS brand is celebrating its debut at Clerkenwell Design Week (CDW), which takes place in London from May 21-23 2024. The brand is particularly targeting interior architects, interior designers, and contract furnishers to present its innovations on sustainability. Trevira CS stands for flame retardant fabrics that have been tested for fire safety. They also offer numerous sustainable properties.

The London borough of Clerkenwell is home to more creative businesses and architects per square mile than anywhere else in the world, making it one of the most important design hubs in the world. To celebrate this rich and diverse community, Clerkenwell Design Week has created a unique opportunity to showcase the world's leading interior design brands. With more than 600 events in over 160 showrooms, more than 11 curated exhibitions, stunning installations, talks and a supporting program, CDW has established itself as the UK's leading design festival. The Trevira CS stand is part of the "German Collection - home to German Contemporary Design", which brings together a leading selection of renowned German brands.
 
The product range of flame-retardant Trevira® filament yarns now also includes 30 spun-dyed, UV-stable yarns, which are particularly suitable for outdoor use in fabrics in the hospitality sector and on cruise ships due to their high light fastness and UV resistance. They also score points for their sustainable properties, as the fabrics made from them can be produced in a more environmentally friendly way than textiles made from conventional yarns.

Trevira CS fabrics are also available in recycled versions. They consist of fiber and filament yarns that are obtained in various recycling processes. Fabrics made from these yarns can obtain the Trevira CS eco trademark. The prerequisite for this is a recycled content of at least 50%.

• DECATHLON investiert in Textilrecycling-Startup Recyc’Elit.
• Als Hersteller von Sportartikeln unterstützt das Unternehmen Start-ups, die die Kreislaufwirtschaft in der Textilindustrie vorantreiben wollen.

Recyc’Elit wurde 2020 in Lyon (Frankreich) von den Brüdern und promovierten Wissenschaftlern Karim und Raouf Medimagh gegründet. Sie entwickelten eine Technologie zur Materialtrennung, um recycelten Polyester, Elasthan und Polyamid zu gewinnen. Mit einem ersten Prototyp, der 2025 gebaut werden soll, verfolgt das Start-up das Ziel, Textilabfalldurch einen chemischen Recyclingprozess wieder in den Produktionskreislauf einzubinden, was in einer Vielzahl von Branchen Anwendung finden kann.

Die Technologie von Recyc’Elit ermöglicht für Decathlon den Zugriff auf recycelte Textilien aus Abfällen, was einerseits den Wettbewerbsvorteil aufrecht erhält, andererseits die Möglichkeit eröffnet, Teil der Textilrecycling-Wertschöpfugskette zu werden.
 
Decathlons Initiative zielt darauf ab, Innovationen zu fördern und nachhaltige Ansätze in der Textilindustrie zu unterstützen. Diese stehen im Einklang mit den Bestrebungen und der Vision von Recyc'Elit, die textile Wertschöpfungskette umzugestalten, und tragen zur Realisierung dieser Partnerschaft bei.