From the Sector

• Sales of CHF 890.3 million in second half-year 2022
• EBIT margin of around 2% expected for full year 2022
• Order intake of CHF 1 157.3 million in 2022; order backlog of around CHF 1 540 million as of December 31, 2022
• Preparations for ITMA 2023 on schedule
• Implementation of action plan to increase sales and profitability ongoing
• Rieter site sales process on schedule

For Rieter, in addition to the geopolitical uncertainties, the 2022 financial year was characterized by three main challenges:
Due to the rapid rise in inflation, the exceptionally high order backlog of around CHF 1 840 million at the beginning of 2022 was processed at significantly higher costs. It was only possible to offset these higher costs in part by means of price increases and other remedial measures.

In order to safeguard deliveries, it was necessary to compensate for serious material bottlenecks, particularly in electronic components, which resulted in considerable additional development expenditure.

Major expenses were also incurred in connection with the acquired businesses (Accotex, Temco and Winder).

Sales
The realization of sales from the exceptionally high order backlog developed better than expected. With sales of CHF 1 510.9 million, Rieter achieved an increase of 56% compared with the previous year (2021: CHF 969.2 million). In the second half of 2022, especially in the fourth quarter, the measures introduced to address material bottlenecks had a positive impact. Consequently, sales increased to CHF 890.3 million compared with the first six months (first half-year 2022: CHF 620.6 million).

EBIT margin
The trend in the EBIT margin was strongly influenced by substantial cost increases, which could only be offset in part through price increases and other remedial measures. In addition, to compensate for material shortages, expenses were incurred in connection with the development of alternative solutions and the acquired businesses.

Rieter succeeded in improving profitability compared with the first half of 2022 due to the higher sales volume and offsetting measures to compensate for increased costs, and expects a positive EBIT margin of around 2% for the full year 2022 (2021: 4.9%).

Order intake
In line with expectations, the order intake of CHF 1 157.3 million in 2022 was below the record year of 2021 (CHF 2 225.7 million). The market situation is characterized by investment restraint due to geopolitical uncertainties, higher financing costs and consumer reticence in important markets.

Order backlog
The company had an order backlog of around CHF 1 540 million at the end of 2022, which thus extends well into 2023 and 2024. In 2022, Rieter recorded order cancellations of less than 10% of the order backlog of CHF 1 840 million at the beginning of the year.

Preparations for ITMA 2023 on schedule
Rieter has continued to boost its innovative capability and, in order to further extend its technology leadership, will present new innovative solutions at ITMA 2023 in Milan.

Action plan to increase sales and profitability
Implementation of the action plan to increase sales and profitability is ongoing. With regard to the profitability of the order backlog, which remains high, the implemented price increases in combination with a favorable trend in costs, particularly in logistics, are having an impact. In addition, progress was made in eliminating material bottlenecks and reducing expenses for the three acquired businesses.

Rieter site sales process
The sales process for the remaining land at the Rieter site in Winterthur (Switzerland) is proceeding according to plan. In total, around 75 000 m² of land will be sold. The Rieter CAMPUS is not part of this transaction.

Results press conference 2023
Rieter will provide further details on the 2022 financial year and an outlook for the 2023 financial year on March 9, 2023.

• Iconic 200 Series fleece to be the first fabric made from this new process.

Polartec®, a Milliken & Company brand, announces Polartec® Shed Less Fleece, a new milestone in its industry-leading efforts to reduce textile fiber fragment shedding. Shed Less is a process that combines yarn construction, knitting, chemistry, and manufacturing to reduce home laundry fiber fragment shedding by an average of 85%. The first fabric to receive this new technology is the brand’s iconic Polartec® 200 Series Fleece, the modern version of the original PolarFleece® launched in 1981, and in 1993, the first performance fleece knit from yarn made from recycled plastic bottles.

The Shed Less process works by engineering the lofted fibers that give fleece its soft hand the ability to resist breaking and rubbing off during home laundering, cited as one contributing factor to the spread of fibers fragments (commonly referred to as microfibers). Polartec® Shed Less Fleece achieves this while maintaining all of the attributes that continue to make Polartec fleece a staple of midlayer collections - lightweight, breathable and warm.

The brand used the AATCC (American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists) TM212-2021 test method for fiber fragment release during home laundering. This test was conducted with large sample sizes to account for variability. The testing concluded that Shed Less Fleece reduced fiber fragment shedding by an average of 85% compared to the baseline fabric.

“In 2016 we began looking into how we might test for fiber loss because there wasn’t a lot of research on the issue.” said Aimee LaValley, Polartec Textile Development, Dye and Chemistry Manager. “This led to new products like Polartec Power Air™, new manufacturing processes, as well as our participation in the TextileMission workgroup to study the issue on an interdisciplinary basis.”

TextileMission was a three year collaborative initiative of academia and industry to reduce the impact of textile microplastics funded by the German Federal Ministry of Education and Research. Founding partners include The Association of the German Sporting Goods Industry, Hochschule Niederrhein - University of Applied Science; TU Dresden - Institute of Water Chemistry; Vaude Sport; WWF Germany; Adidas AG; Henkel AG; Miele & CIE; and Polartec, LLC.

Polartec® Shed Less Fleece will be initially launched in the United States and will be available to customers beginning March 1, 2023. The brand plans to apply the Shed Less process to many other industry-leading fabric platforms and manufacturing facilities around the world.

• Standard assesses fibre release, biodegradation and ecotoxicity for the first time

Testing service provider Hohenstein has worked with the project partners Trigema, Freudenberg, DBL ITEX and Paradies to create a new standardized test method for detecting and classifying the environmental effects of textiles during washing. DIN SPEC 4872 combines analysis of fibre release, biodegradability and ecotoxicity. The test method according to DIN SPEC 4872 shows how many fibres are released during textile laundering, how well these fibres degrade in wastewater and how harmful the fibre residues are to the environment.

Studies have shown that washing textiles releases microfibres into the wash water, which cannot be sufficiently retained by wastewater treatment plants. Synthetic fibres pose the greatest risk to the environment because of their longevity and inability to biodegrade. However, Hohenstein project manager Juliane Alberts does not give the all-clear for biodegradable fibres and natural fibres: "Biodegradability alone does not mean that pure natural fibres, for example, are completely harmless to the environment. They, too, remain in ecosystems until they completely degrade and can also have a negative impact. In addition, additives, auxiliaries or finishes used in textile production can further slow the degradation process and leach into the environment."

The new standard enables textile producers and suppliers to test, evaluate and compare products for fibre release during washing and environmental impact. Juliane Alberts sees this systematic evaluation as an opportunity for the textile industry to take the initiative on environmental impact: "Our reliable data can be used as a basis for more targeted product development. This is a way to actively and consciously control further environmental pollution."

Um kleinen und mittleren Unternehmen eine Hilfestellung zu geben, Aspekte der Ressourceneffizienz in Entwicklungsphasen zu berücksichtigen, hat das VDI Zentrum Ressourceneffizienz (VDI ZRE) den Online-Baukasten „Design für Ressourceneffizienz“ entwickelt.

Mit der strukturierten Zusammenstellung erhalten Unternehmen einen gezielten Zugang zu weiteren kostenlosen Inhalten, die auf ihre spezifische Fragestellung zugeschnitten sind: Studien, Kurzanalysen, Gute-Praxis-Beispiele und mehr. Diese Angebote zum Wissensaufbau und zur Selbsteinschätzung geben neue Impulse und ermöglichen es, den eigenen Entwicklungsfortschritt zu bewerten.

Orientierung bieten dabei auch die einzelnen Phasen der Produktentwicklung: das Klären der Aufgabe, das Konzipieren, Entwerfen und Ausarbeiten. Darüber hinaus werden grundsätzliche Überlegungen zu Strategien und Geschäftsmodellen dargestellt, denen sich ein Unternehmen vor Beginn der eigentlichen Produktentwicklung stellen sollte oder die während der Entwicklungsphasen wichtig sind. Dass es sich lohnt Ressourceneffizienz in der Produktentwicklung zu berücksichtigen, zeigen zahlreiche Gute-Praxis-Beispiele.

Ein „Analysemethodenset“ unterstützt dabei, das konzipierte Produkt hinsichtlich der Ressourceneffizienz zu bewerten. Methoden für die Entwicklung ressourceneffizienter Produkte und zur Umsetzung von entsprechenden Strategien und Maßnahmen liefert ein so genanntes „Entwicklungsmethodenset“. Beide Module sind Teil des Baukastens.

Der im Auftrag des Bundesumweltministeriums entwickelte Online-Baukasten „Design für Ressourceneffizienz“ wird in regelmäßigen Abständen aktualisiert und erweitert. Er ist abrufbar unter www.ressource-deutschland.de/werkzeuge/basis-werkzeuge/baukasten-produktentwicklung/

Der Bundesverband Medizintechnologie (BVMed) hat die heutige Entscheidung des Europäischen Parlament zu Änderungen an der EU-Medizinprodukte-Verordnung (MDR) begrüßt, fordert gleichzeitig aber auch Schritte, um das europäische Marktzugangssystem strategisch weiterzuentwickeln und im weltweiten Wettbewerb insbesondere um Innovationen besser aufzustellen. „Es ist ein gutes Signal für die medizinische Versorgung der Patient:innen und den Medizinprodukte-Standort Europa, dass Kommission, Rat und Parlament in den letzten Wochen Tempo gemacht und die notwendigen Änderungen im Schnellverfahren beschlossen haben“, so BVMed-Geschäftsführer und Vorstandsmitglied Dr. Marc-Pierre Möll.

Zum Hintergrund: Die Medizintechnik-Branche bereitet sich seit Jahren intensiv auf die MDR vor. Die Kosten der Umsetzung für die Branche werden nach Schätzungen zwischen 7 und 10 Milliarden Euro liegen. Die Branche hat massiv investiert, beispielsweise in zusätzliches regulatorisches Personal. Das MDR-System ist aber nach wie vor nicht praxistauglich. Zentrales Problem bei der MDR-Implementierung sind die Kapazitätsengpässe bei den Benannten Stellen sowie die sehr aufwendigen Zertifizierungsverfahren.  

Zur Vermeidung von Engpässen bei Medizinprodukten haben Parlament, Rat und Kommission nun unter anderem die Abschaffung der Abverkaufsfrist und eine Verlängerung der Übergangsfrist für die neuen Vorschriften nach einem risikobasierten Ansatz beschlossen. Außerdem werden Klasse III-Sonderanfertigungen mit in die Fristenverlängerung aufgenommen.

Parallel zu dieser wichtigen Maßnahme zur Entzerrung des Flaschenhals bei der Zertifizierung der Bestandsprodukte müssen nach Ansicht der BVMed auch die untergesetzlichen Maßnahmen, die von der Medical Device Coordination Group (MDCG) Ende August 2022 veröffentlicht wurden, pragmatisch umgesetzt werden, damit Bestandsprodukte zeitnah in die MDR überführt werden können und auch in Zukunft der Gesundheitsversorgung zur Verfügung stehen.

Mittelfristig geht es dem deutschen Medizintechnik-Verband darum, dass die MDR strategisch weiterentwickelt werden muss, damit Europa im schärfer werdenden Innovationswettbewerb gegenüber USA und Asien nicht weiter an Boden verliert. Der Beschluss der Schweiz, künftig auch die FDA-Zulassung des US-Systems zuzulassen, verdeutliche die Gefahr, dass das EU-System mit der MDR den Innovationswettbewerb der Zukunft verliere.

BVMed-Geschäftsführer Dr. Marc-Pierre Möll: „Wenn wir mehr und mehr Forschung und Entwicklung durch Abwanderung verlieren, dann verlieren wir damit nicht nur viele kluge Köpfe, sondern künftig auch Produktion und Wertschöpfung in Europa. Wir müssen deshalb jetzt daran arbeiten, die Rolle Europas als attraktive Region für Investitionen in medizintechnische Innovationen wieder zu stärken. Mit unserem innovationsstarken Mittelstand haben wir dafür die besten Voraussetzungen.“

The Woolmark Company, the Italian wool fabric mill Vitale Barberis Canonico (VBC) and Haelixa took part in a trial to trace Australian wool fibers up to the final fabric.

Funded by Australian woolgrowers, The Woolmark Company (TWC) is an enterprise that focuses on investments that enhance the profitability, international competitiveness, and sustainability of Australian wool. In their operations, TWC seeks to be transparent and accountable. In line with this strategy, traceability is necessary to ensure transparency and maintain the credibility of TWC.

In December 2021, Haelixa marked wool fibers with their DNA tracing solution. There are infinite DNA markers that could be produced and used to indicate a specific origin, supply chain, material, or particular collection. In this case, a single DNA has been applied to greasy wool and a second DNA marker to scoured wool. The first DNA identifies the origin of the Australian wool, while the second determines the manufacturer where the wool has been further processed; at Vitale Barberis Canonico mill.

Samples were collected from various production stages, where a qPCR test was used to detect each specific DNA marker. Haelixa uses a “Key-Lock” system to detect a marker; one needs to know the particular DNA to screen for, ensuring that the system is tamper-proof. The DNA markers stay safely embedded in the product, enabling traceability of greasy and scoured wool up to greige fabric and finished fabric, respectively.

With increasing cost pressure and competition in the wool fabric market, traceability is becoming a prerequisite to proving authenticity and origin. TWC and Vitale Barberis Canonico support the culture of sustainability and collaboration.

Archroma, a manufacturer of sustainable specialty chemicals and solutions for industries such as textiles, packaging & paper, paints and coatings, announced that it has secured all regulatory approvals required to complete the acquisition of the Textile Effects business from Huntsman Corporation (“Huntsman Textile Effects”).

Both parties expect the transaction, which was first announced on 09 August 2022, to close on 28 February 2023.

Archroma is a portfolio company of US-based private investment firm SK Capital Partners. Since its formation in 2013, Archroma acquired and successfully integrated the global textile chemicals businesses of BASF as well as BASF’s stilbene-based OBA business for paper applications, and M. Dohmen, a specialist in coloration for automotive textiles.

Heike van de Kerkhof, Archroma Group Chief Executive Officer (CEO), commented: “We are very excited to see this acquisition nearing completion. I am deeply grateful to the project teams of Archroma and Huntsman who are preparing for a smooth transition for our employees and partners. After closing, we will be able to bring together our expert teams and highly complementary product portfolios to offer our customers and brand partners the high performance they expect, whilst respecting natural resources and the planet.”

• Longer parking times for greater efficiency

Since 2018, Oerlikon Barmag has been offering the market’s only currently available concept for high-end home textile applications using the POY and DTY process. The spinning concept with the WINGS HD winding unit in conjunction with an automatic eAFK Big V Multispindle texturing machine manufactures high-titer yarns with maximum machine efficiency.
 
“We have correspondingly modified WINGS HD in order to once again better align the increased requirements of these special yarns to the spinning process and make everyday production even simpler for our customers”, comments Stephan Faulstich, POY Process Technology Manager. The parking times are extremely short when winding high titers. We have increased the parking times by up to three times in the case of the new WINGS HD models. To this end, the parking time for a 300d/384f yarn, for example, has been increased from a standard 6.5 min. to 15.7 min. – and, in the case of a 400d/192f yarn, from 4.3 min. to 10.3 min. This makes the doffing process more even, hence increasing doffing reliability.

At the same time, the draw unit now has a more flexible design, meaning that two-godet operation is also possible in the case of products with low overall titers. This has a positive impact on the winding unit’s energy consumption.

12 POY packages of up to 600d/576f (final) are produced in the spinning process using WINGS HD 1800. This is made possible as a result of an additional godet, which ensures that the high yarn tensions developing in the process are reduced to the yarn tensions common in the case of the winding process to date. At the same time, the newly-developed suction unit with the accompanying yarn cut-ting device (yarn collecting system) ensures – both during string-up and in the event of a yarn break – reliable handling of the yarn with an overall titer of 7,200 den (final).

Whereas DTY yarns up to 1,200 den and with up to 784 filaments have in the past, as standard, been plied from four POY 300d/192f bobbins using DTY machines, high titers can also be manufactured directly using the WINGS HD take-up machine. Combining the WINGS HD and the eAFK Big V allows all available winding positions to be utilized during texturing.

Sustainable solutions provider Perstorp has added new corporate sustainability targets, for water and waste, to its sustainability strategy. Its long-term sustainability ambition is to become Finite Material Neutral, which involves water and waste, along with raw materials, energy and catalysts. In 2021 the company set its first 2030 targets, for greenhouse gas emissions (using approved science-based targets) and (eco) toxic impact. Now Perstorp has added new sustainability targets that will address its long-term ambition.

These new 2030 corporate targets (all measured using 2019 as the base year) are:

• 30% absolute reduction of freshwater consumption
• 30% absolute reduction of hazardous waste directed to disposal
• 30% absolute reduction of non-hazardous waste directed to disposal

"Fresh water consumption and waste are two areas of big importance in reducing our environmental impact and working toward increased circularity," says Anna Berggren, Vice President Sustainability at Perstorp Group. "Fresh water scarcity is already a fact around the world, and we have a responsibility to reduce our consumption and utilize alternative water sources. We must also minimize waste generation and find new circular solutions of reusing and recycling the waste streams into new products, either ourselves or so that a third party can use them as raw material. We have set ambitious and absolute sustainability targets, that are to be achieved regardless of production growth. To be able to reach these targets we have several large projects planned that will contribute significantly."

All Perstorp production plants use water for multiple purposes, including, for example: for cooling, as a solvent for chemical reactions, as a carrier for products, and as a heat-transfer medium. One way to reduce fresh water consumption is to purify and recycle wastewater. Perstorp sees this as an important core technology and is planning to invest in wastewater recycling projects at several of its production sites.

A key to reducing waste directed to disposal is to develop circular solutions that use waste streams as raw materials for new products. One example is Project Air, in which captured carbon dioxide together with residue streams from Perstorp's production plant in Stenungsund, Sweden, will serve as raw material for production of sustainable methanol that will replace all the virgin fossil methanol used by Perstorp in Europe.

Südwesttextil begrüßt den Beschluss des Ministerrats vom 14.02.2023 zu den Härtefallhilfen Energie für KMU, sieht die hohen Auflagen aber kritisch.

Nach langen Diskussionen zwischen Bund und Ländern sind gestern die Härtefallhilfen Energie im Ministerrat beschlossen worden. Die Unterstützungen kommen aus Bundesmitteln und sollen besonders betroffene kleine und mittelständische Unternehmen (KMU) zusätzlich zu den Strom- und Gaspreisbremsen sowie dem Dezemberzuschlag des Bundes entlasten. Südwesttextil, der Verband der südwestdeutschen Textil- und Bekleidungsindustrie, begrüßt, dass die Hilfen voraussichtlich ab März bei der Landesbank beantragt werden können.

Hauptgeschäftsführerin Edina Brenner kommentiert die Entscheidung: „Die Härtefallhilfen Energie kommen, aber leider spät und vor allem mit hohen Auflagen. Die Kombination der Eingrenzung auf eine Größe von bis zu 500 Beschäftigten mit den verknüpften Vorgaben des negativen EBITDA 2022, des Mindestanteils der Energiekosten von sechs Prozent an den Gesamtkosten und der Mindeststeigerung um den Faktor drei, wird dazu führen, dass viele stark betroffene Unternehmen gar keine Hilfen erhalten werden. Die Wettbewerbsfähigkeit eines Unternehmens leidet z.B. auch, wenn dessen Energiekosten knapp unter der genannten Verdreifachung liegen.“

Diese Auflagen entsprechen damit längst nicht den Empfehlungen der Expertenkommission Gas und Wärme, Unterstützungen unabhängig von Branche und Größe zur Verfügung zu stellen. Es ist zudem fraglich, ob der zugeteilte Umfang der Fördermittel durch den Bund für Baden-Württemberg ausreichen wird. Der Verband begrüßt nichtsdestotrotz den Einsatz der baden-württembergischen Landesregierung, sich für energieträgerunabhängige Härtefallhilfen einzusetzen und mit einem eigenen Landesprogramm Entlastung zu schaffen.