From the Sector

The European LIFE ANHIDRA project marks a milestone in sustainability with the unveiling of its innovative closed-loop system for treating and reusing textile wastewater. During the event held at the Pizarro facility in Guimarães (Portugal), ANHIDRA was introduced as a revolutionary solution transforming water management in the textile industry. The event brought together the project’s key partners: Jeanologia, the Spanish company responsible for designing and building ANHIDRA and a global leader in sustainable technologies for the textile sector; AITEX, the Textile Industry Research Association; and Portuguese textile company Pizarro, accompanied by representatives from the European Commission.

A solution to reduce the textile industry’s water footprint
The textile industry consumes an estimated 93 billion m³ of water annually, accounting for 4% of global water use. ANHIDRA addresses this critical challenge by regenerating up to 95% of the water used in textile washing and finishing processes, returning it in optimal conditions for reuse.
With zero discharges, zero contamination, and no complex treatments, ANHIDRA stands out with exceptional results:

• 92% reduction in water consumption
• 98% reduction in wastewater generation
• Up to 15% reduction in energy consumption

ANHIDRA not only minimizes environmental impact but also reduces the operational costs associated with traditional water management, making it a competitive and eco-friendly solution.

Innovation and circular economy
Beyond water regeneration, ANHIDRA focuses on reusing textile waste. In collaboration with AITEX, the project is exploring how to transform fibrous fragments collected during water treatment into new textile products, reinforcing the project’s commitment to the circular economy.

"ANHIDRA not only transforms water management in the textile industry but also proves that sustainability and competitiveness can go hand in hand. This system sets a new global benchmark," said Vicent Albert, Jeanologia’s Product and Technology Director.

During the event, attendees observed the various stages of the system in action at the Pizarro pilot plant. The project plans to implement ANHIDRA in at least 36 industrial facilities over the next three years, aiming to expand to 100 systems internationally within five years. This is expected to save up to 12.34 million m³ of water annually.

Funded by the European Union's LIFE program, LIFE ANHIDRA demonstrates how business cooperation and technological innovation can provide effective solutions to major environmental challenges. "Our goal is to make this technology accessible to the entire textile industry, contributing to a more sustainable future for fashion and the planet," concluded Vicent Albert, project coordinator.

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This project has received funding from the European Union's LIFE program (grant agreement no. 101074372). The content of this document is the sole responsibility of the authors and does not necessarily reflect the position of the European Union, CINEA, or the corresponding funding program.

Global Standard, the non-profit that manages the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), in partnership with The Hague-based UpRights Foundation, announced the launch of the GOTS Due Diligence Handbook for Auditors. This landmark resource is a critical step in promoting sustainable practices, human rights and ethical business conduct across the textile sector and in line with evolving regulatory requirements around the world.  
 
"The GOTS Due Diligence Handbook for Auditors is not only a milestone for GOTS, but also a transformative tool for the textile industry on its journey towards responsible production," said Ruslan Alyamkin, Responsible, Standard Development and Implementation (Social Responsibility) at Global Standard. "This Handbook provides our Certification Bodies with the knowledge and guidance they now need to ensure that the highest standards of environmental and human rights due diligence are met and verified. By aligning with international frameworks and the recent legislative developments, we are further strengthening Global Standard’s mission to promote sustainable, transparent and socially responsible practices throughout global textile supply chains.”
 
Purpose
The GOTS Due Diligence Handbook for Auditors provides a comprehensive framework to guide Certification Bodies and their auditors in assessing compliance with the GOTS 7.0 criteria. Specifically designed to be practical and ensure consistent verification of due diligence, human rights and social criteria, the Handbook outlines clear, step-by-step methodologies for auditors to conduct thorough and effective audits.
 
The Handbook is not intended to replace or override the existing audit protocols and procedures already used by Certification Bodies but instead provides additional insights and tools.
 
In addition, the new Handbook complements the GOTS Due Diligence Handbook for Certified Entities, which was released in 2023 and offers detailed guidance on integrating responsible practices throughout operations and supply chains. Together, these resources are essential elements of the Global Standard Due Diligence Framework and empower GOTS Certified Entities and Certification Bodies to play their part in maintaining the highest standards of human rights and environmental due diligence.
 
Development of the Handbook
As with other Global Standard resources, the development of the GOTS Due Diligence Handbook for Auditors was an inclusive process involving extensive consultation with a wide range of stakeholders. Global Standard's Standard Development Unit conducted in-depth interviews with GOTS auditors to gain insight into the practical challenges and best practices in verifying compliance with human rights, social and due diligence criteria in different geographical regions. In addition, Global Standard engaged business and human rights experts to address sector-specific issues and complexities. This collaborative approach ensures that the Handbook reflects the operational realities and challenges of GOTS Certified Entities around the world.
 
Regulatory Landscape
The Handbook’s release is timely given the evolving global regulatory landscape, which is increasingly demanding stronger corporate accountability in business practices. Recently, the EU Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (CSDDD) introduced mandatory due diligence requirements for companies operating within the EU. The introduction of CSDDD significantly elevates standards for corporate transparency and accountability. Other laws, including Germany’s Supply Chain Act, France’s Duty of Vigilance Law and Norway’s Transparency Act, are placing similar expectations on businesses to manage their human rights and environmental impacts responsibly.
 
GOTS 7.0 requires Certified Entities to respect universally recognised human rights criteria and follow the emerging legal obligations under the CSDDD and other due diligence laws.

Texcare International celebrated its comeback from 6 to 9 November with an exceptionally high level of international participation and top marks from the participants. 305 companies from 32 countries presented their innovations in automation and energy efficiency.

Over four days, the leading international trade fair for textile care presented innovations for laundries, dry cleaners and textile service companies with great success: 98 per cent of trade visitors were satisfied to extremely satisfied with how they achieved their goals for the trade fair; 52 per cent expect an improved industry economy. After eight years without Texcare due to the pandemic, the desire among exhibitors to exchange ideas and present innovations was palpable.

Industry celebrates its future potential
The industry is meeting the challenges of labour shortage and rising energy prices with a significant surge in innovation. The solutions are available, as demonstrated by the exhibitors with their machines, technologies and expertise. The leap towards robotisation was clearly visible at the stands. The circular economy was also in focus: many innovations showed how machine builders and textile manufacturers are working together to advance sustainability. Texcare provided the right impulse for companies in the textile care industry at the right time, enabling them to secure their successful market position by investing.

The partner industry associations of Texcare also draw a positive conclusion. Elgar Straub, CEO of VDMA Textile Care, Fabric and Leather Technologies, emphasises: “Expectations for Texcare International were very high after eight years without a trade fair, but they were even exceeded. I have rarely experienced such a good atmosphere at trade fairs in recent years. Furthermore, Texcare International was extremely well prepared by Messe Frankfurt, but the exhibitors also presented themselves to their global customers with exceptionally beautiful and informative stands. As expected, the topics that are driving the industry were hygiene, automation, digitalisation, logistics and AI. But my highlight of this fair was the truly excellent mood among visitors and exhibitors and the positive outlook for the future of textile care. Texcare International this year was simply a pleasure.”

Andreas Schumacher, General Manager of the German Textile Care Association, summarises: “There was a sense of a fresh start. You could feel that after eight long years, the exhibitors were eager to show their products and developments, and the visitors were excited about innovations. In particular, the topics of automation and digital solutions, as well as robotics, were the subject of much discussion, as many companies are facing a shortage of skilled workers. After the pandemic and the energy crisis, the discussions were once again characterised by a willingness to invest and a sense of optimism. Energy costs and corresponding opportunities for saving energy and other resources were also a key topic. Last but not least, companies in the industry are working to further improve their circular business models and to adapt to the upcoming regulations for the recycling of textiles.”

The Bangladesh Climate Action Forum 2024 was held at the Radisson Blu Water Garden Hotel on 10^th October 2024. Over 450 delegates from across the globe came together to foster dialogue, collaboration, and actionable strategies to advance Bangladesh's sustainability goals.
The Bangladesh Apparel Exchange (BAE) organized the forum as a pivotal platform uniting industry leaders, government officials, climate advocates, innovators, brands, development organizations, policymakers, and academics.

The theme of this year's Bangladesh Fashion: Driving Collective Climate Action highlighted the urgent need for sustainability within the fashion and apparel sector. The forum was significant as a catalyst for dialogue and collaboration among various stakeholders. Enhancing climate leadership and technical skills makes the forum crucial in propelling the nation toward a sustainable and resilient future.

In his opening remarks, Mostafiz Uddin, Founder & CEO of Bangladesh Apparel Exchange, said:
“You care about the planet, you care about the country, and that is why all of you are here today. All of you are my inspiration. Climate action is no more a burden. For entrepreneurs, it's a business opportunity.”
“This is how I think. For all of you, you all love Bangladesh and want to eliminate poverty and disasters. Cheap labor is no longer a competitive advantage for Bangladesh. If we as entrepreneurs do not achieve the target set by our clients, we will not be able to succeed. To achieve the targets, the manufacturers need more shared responsibility, collaboration, and support.”

This year’s event featured keynote addresses, panel discussions, presentations, and workshops, where more than about 42 national and international experts shared insights on building a climate-resilient and carbon-neutral future through collaboration and innovation and the launch of two significant initiatives occurred during the event: the Soldiered 'Better Mills Initiative' and the OnetrueSOLar Fund. In addition, key presentations focused on Solar Rooftop System Optimization, Thermal Energy System Optimization, and Clean by Design: Lessons from Bangladesh and Impact. dedicated to enhancing sustainable practices in Bangladesh. Key partners supported the forum included the Apparel Impact Institute, Cascale, the European Union, GIZ, H&M, the Embassy of the Netherlands in Bangladesh, PDS Limited, and Target.

The event unites many contributors such as the Ministry of Foreign Affairs; Ministry of Power, Energy, and Mineral Resources; Ministry of Environment, Forest and Climate Change; the Bangladesh Power Management Institute (BPMI), the Embassy of Denmark in Bangladesh, the Embassy of France in Bangladesh, the Embassy of Sweden in Bangladesh, ILO, Laudes Foundation, Oxfam in Bangladesh USAID Bangladesh.

Additionally, an engineering workshop showcased the expertise of industry-leading organizations, including Armstrong Fluid Technology, Forbes Marshall, Grant Thornton Bharat LLP, Illukkumbura Industrial Automation (Pvt) Ltd., and Jinko Solar. Over 300 engineers from apparel manufacturing units participated, gaining practical strategies to drive sustainability and decarbonization efforts within their organizations.

Gerard Fres Ltd (GFL), a sweater manufacturer founded in France and based in Dhaka, Bangladesh, has adopted Pivot88, a TradeBeyond company, to optimize its quality inspection processes.

Established in 1997 and known for its focus on sustainability and ethical production, Gerard Fres has been a pioneer in the knitwear industry, specializing in pullovers and exporting around six million pieces annually to various countries including France, Germany, Belgium, Italy, Canada, Brazil, and Australia.

By incorporating Pivot88's technology, Gerard Fres aims to further its mission of ensuring supply chain efficiency from product design to end-consumer satisfaction, while maintaining quality and ethical and sustainable production principles.

Pivot88, known for its robust compliance, quality testing, and traceability solutions, will provide Gerard Fres with a platform that offers real-time oversight and comprehensive data analytics. This will enable Gerard Fres to conduct more effective and efficient quality inspections.

For the second year running, Global Standard is taking consumers #BehindTheSeams this September, highlighting the sustainable and social qualities of GOTS-certified products – from runway fashion to hygiene products and so much more in between. Building on the success of last year, #BehindTheSeams 2024 has expanded to take over the entire month, Sept. 2-30, with more education on the people and practices making sustainable textiles, plus giveaways planned each day.

Throughout September, Global Standard introduces daily giveaways on Instagram, featuring partnerships with GOTS-certified brands such as Frugi, FC St. Pauli, LangerChen, Natracare, Mandala, Dedicated, and more. Additionally, a giveaway will be hosted on behindtheseams.eco, where visitors can learn about sustainability by answering daily questions while earning entries. The grand prize is a sustainable trip to Paris. This includes train travel, a two-night stay at the eco-friendly Eden Lodge Paris and a private fitting for a custom GOTS-certified jacket by John Preston, the only brand offering made-to-measure GOTS-certified fashion.

#BehindTheSeams is also spotlighting "organic in-conversion" farming and urging brands to support farmers during the critical transition period from conventional to organic. In this campaign, GOTS has partnered with the Organic Cotton Accelerator, an organisation dedicated to supporting farmers throughout the cotton supply chain as they make the shift to and sustain organic practices. Together, GOTS and OCA want to send a message that brands can bolster the organic cotton supply by investing in and buying organic in-conversion cotton.

bluesign and SCTI donate the Sustainable Chemistry Index (SCI) Methodology to ZDHC aiming to advance sustainable chemistry within the textile industry. This collaboration aims to revolutionize chemical management in the textile, leather and fashion industries, while addressing environmental impact in a holistic manner.

For decades, the use of hazardous chemicals in clothing has been a major challenge. Despite industry efforts with numerous overlapping standards and voluntary schemes - the textile, leather and fashion industries struggle with varying regulations, inconsistent data and a lack of common action. Inconsistent regulations, limited transparency, and little coordinated action hinder progress, while consumers do not receive information about the overall environmental impact of these industries.

Leading organizations in the textile sector are elevating the conversation to tackle these issues head-on with converging assessment tools.

SCTI, a group of innovative and pioneering chemical manufacturers, aims to bring positive change to the textile industry and make sustainable chemistry the norm. bluesign has extensive experience in ensuring safe and responsible chemical management, environmental and worker safety as well as resource efficiency in the production of textiles. The ZDHC Foundation, driven by major fashion brands, is on a mission to detox the fashion industry by providing tools and guidelines for sustainable chemical management.
The Start of the Sustainable Chemistry Index (SCI):
In 2022, SCTI and bluesign announced the development of the first comprehensive Sustainable Chemistry Index (SCI) for the textile industry. The pioneering work leverages best available technologies, while transcending existing chemical assessments, and introduces a one-stop-shopping tool for a broader assessment of environmental impact. Such an approach was missing. Now, the SCI introduces a standard common language for convergence and alignment throughout global textile.

The SCI brings new parameters to assess how chemical products improve resource utilisation in the processes they are used along the life cycle of a garment. Key building blocks include supply chain transparency, responsible sourcing, feedstock reducing fossil dependency, product carbon footprint, resource consumption, efficiency in use during textile production, end use impact and end-of-life of consumer applications. This transparent framework makes it easier for the industry to evaluate the sustainability impact of chemicals present in a garment and promote circularity.

A Collaborative Donation to Advance the Industry:
To advance and foster industry-wide collaboration, SCTI and bluesign are donating, the SCI to ZDHC as the cornerstone of its Chemicals to Zero (CTZ-A) program. CTZ-A represents the highest level of sustainable chemistry within ZDHC. In 2024, the SCI content will undergo ZDHC's stakeholder engagement and consultation processes, aiming to enhance the Roadmap to Zero Program by addressing sustainability and circularity. ZDHC will make the SCI content freely available to the public, enabling widespread adoption and impact.

The ZDHC program is well-positioned to complement the expertise of bluesign and SCTI and to scale its impact within a multistakeholder structure. This collaboration empowers manufacturers and brands to make informed, responsible choices in terms of chemicals and processes, committing to sustainable chemistry and benefiting society.

Indorama Ventures Public Company Limited announces its role in the T-REX (Textile Recycling Excellence) Project. This initiative aims to establish a harmonized EU blueprint for the closed-loop sorting and recycling of household textile waste to help the fashion industry transition towards a more circular and sustainable future. By bringing together key stakeholders across the entire value chain, the project positions itself at the forefront of sustainable innovation.

The designated spinning partner, Indorama Ventures, will process the chemical recycled feedstock into polyester yarns and fibers through the extrusion process, ensuring the elimination of impurities. The company’s participation in the project also aligns with its goals of driving the circular economy and circular fashion industry through PET recycling and supply of recycled materials, underscoring its commitment to sustainability.

The T-REX Project launched with the aim of creating a harmonised blueprint which will support the creation of a circular system for post-consumer textile waste within Europe. The EU funded project brings together a consortium of 13 major players from across the entire value chain along with research institutes to transform end-of-use textiles from waste into valuable feedstock and a commodity for new business models that can be adopted at scale.

Women play a decisive role in achieving social and economic improvements for entire communities, including those involved in cotton production. Nonetheless, female farmers continue to face systemic disadvantages. Cotton made in Africa (CmiA) is pursuing gender justice to redress this imbalance, and the results of a recent study reveal significant progress in this regard.

A recent study shows women taking leadership through Cotton made in Africa as lead farmers. In this position, they serve as role models; they offer other female farmers someone to turn to; and they establish co-operatives together with other women to increase both their autonomy and their financial independence by creating new sources of income.

A major factor in this success has been collaboration with African cotton companies in the cultivation regions. This involves regular verifications to assess whether the partners’ activities comply with the standard’s requirements. The verifications are structured around a large selection of indicators that address issues including whether gender-related training was completed or whether projects promoting gender justice were conducted. Over the past years, this approach has not only raised awareness of gender equality among village communities but also increasingly challenged or dissolved traditional norms among the partner companies’ management and staff, thereby resolving inequities and empowering women at the systemic level. The study revealed that respondents see Cotton made in Africa as playing a highly supportive role. Intensive communication through training, verifications, and discussions with other cotton companies has given partner companies a clear awareness of how important gender justice is. As a result, they have become significantly more active in this regard, thereby encouraging women to assume a stronger position in agriculture and the communities. This is reflected in the fact that over 80 percent of both male and female respondents in Mozambique disagreed with the statement that care work should only be done by women. At least 60 percent of female and male farmers surveyed apply the skills and knowledge acquired through the training, which expressly addresses gender-specific aspects. In addition, over 80 percent of surveyed women stated that they receive the same share of proceeds from cotton sales as the other members of their families.

CmiA’s gender study was based on the internationally recognised Women’s Empowerment in Agriculture Index, which aims to measure and improve the role of women in agriculture. In addition to the survey of over 500 farmers, 26 qualitative interviews and around 30 group discussions were conducted in cotton-growing areas of Mozambique (in south-eastern Africa) and Benin (in western Africa) in order to ensure a representative sample.

Cotton made in Africa shares the United Nations’ views on the significance of gender equality, as outlined in the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs), especially SDG 5. In its own work as a sustainability standard, CmiA also follows international norms and frameworks, such as ILO conventions or Agenda 2030; at a higher level, CmiA promotes gender equality in the textile industry by participating in expert groups like the Partnership for Sustainable Textiles’ strategy committee for gender equality.

Today more than ever, sustainability in the fashion sector is an imperative that is reshaping the dynamics of the sector. These are important changes driven both by increasing CSR regulations (for example, Business of Fashion revealed that, according to 87% of players, the new regulations will impact their company in 2024), and by consumers’ habits (increasingly sensitive to the topic and consequently more careful in purchasing choices). In this scenario, Lectra analyzed real-time data from Retviews – its artificial intelligence-based solution specialized in competitive intelligence and automatic benchmarking – and unveils how Retviews’ empowers brands to navigate the complexities of sustainable and optimized collection planning.

According to Retviews data, to face sustainability challenges and best orient in the current complex fashion landscape, it will be crucial for brands to keep 5 key indications in mind:

1. Planning sustainable collections
Faced with the new regulations, brands are called to rethink their strategies, without losing sight on performance. For this reason, brands are already moving to optimize and rationalize the creative processes of their collections with a view to sustainability. In particular, Retviews' real-time data analysis reveals a growing trend towards sustainability in the collections of leading brands, where there are important investments in sustainable fabrics for both upper and lower garments. In particular, in the "Top" section, shirts show the most significant growth year over year among the eco-responsible options.

2. Sustainable prices (in every sense)
In this context, the redefinition of prices requires a strategic balance between market dynamics and the consumer's willingness to pay for products redesigned in terms of CSR. Retviews data shows a significant increase in costs in sustainable top collections. However, has this shift affected stock levels?

3. Inventories: optimized management
Tracking stock levels is crucial to season management, as it helps identify best-selling items and trends, as well as identify which items would sell better at full price versus those that should be discounted.
The new premium prices for sustainable collections require optimization of the sales rate, a waste limitation to minimum and a reduction of unsold goods rate.
Analyzing the tops category - In the tops category, where sustainably made products prevail with significantly higher price points than generic tops, Retviews' real-time data reveals that sustainable collections boast a higher sell-out rate compared to non-sustainable products. This superior sell-out rate underscores consumers' willingness to pay a premium for sustainability

4. Traceability and certification of collections
Certification is essential in verifying sustainability claims, fosters trust and ensures compliance. Not only that, it is also important to understand the value of the certifications and which ones appear most frequently in the various markets so as to make targeted decisions and adapt the assortments accordingly. This also let brands to prioritize the right mix of fabrics that can reflect the desires of local consumers. Retviews data highlights a particular focus on “Recycled Claim Standard” (RCS) certification in Europe and on “Fair Trade” and “Good Cashmere Standard” certified garments in the United States.

5. Mix of sustainable fabrics
About environmental impact, fabrics also play a fundamental role. Through data-driven tools, brands are able to find valuable information on sustainable materials that are gaining tractions in collections and thus make informed and strategic decisions in the process of planning their creations.